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So I was pretty impressed with the power increase in the car for the few miles I put on it before loading it on the trailer and bringing it home.  The boost controller has two programed set points (hi and lo).  I misread the book and thought I was ripping around on the "hi" setting.  I was not.  After unloading the car today, I took it for a spin on the "hi" setting.

All I can say is 15 psi of positive manifold pressure gives that little car a serious kick in the a$$.  I'm still giggling like a little kid.

 
nice!

Inline 6?

I had a 94 YJ, really it was my favorite Jeep so far (even my short lived CJ) - Ill see if I can find a pic..  I used to put my kids car seats in the back..

 
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It's the 4cyl. I don't think I can afford a 6cyl down here. People want crazy money for them.

I had a tj with the 6, and a tj with the 4, and yeah it's got more hp, but it's just for cruising around town since there isn't really anything else to do down here.

 
A 4 banger should be fine down in flat lander land

They are crazy what they sell for - I am sure someone else is already doing it, but Id like to go through the West  ala American Pickers and buy old jeeps sitting in peoples barns (I see a lot of them when I make trips to South Dakota and back) 

 
Anyone have any luck with bolt extractors? An exhaust manifold stud is broken off in the Jeep's head. Since the manifold isn't secured in that spot, there is a small leak. I plan on replacing the entire exhaust soon but I'd like to get the stud out to put in a new stud. Any suggested kits that work well?

 
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Anyone have any luck with bolt extractors? An exhaust manifold stud is broken off in the Jeep's head. Since the manifold isn't secured in that spot, there is a small leak. I plan on replacing the entire exhaust soon but I'd like to get the stud out to put in a new stud. Any suggested kits that work well?
I find the square flute ones break less.  Welding a nut on is the best approach if its an option, though.  Otherwise, use a ton of penetrating lube in advance and use heat.  

 
Even with welding a nut on the stud and extracting that way (provided it isn't broken off within the head), let it soak with a good penetrating oil for a day or two, then weld and pull.

I've used several bolt extractors, still have yet to find one that is my "go-to". Last bolt that broke off within a casting was carefully drilled out to just shy of the required size tap drill and then re-tapped. Before that, I melted the sucker out with the oxy-acetylene torch.

EDIT - Thinking about the last time with the bolt extractors, use the largest size that'll fit safely. If you bust it, it's not going to be easy to get it out. Preparation of the bolt within the head will be key to getting everything out properly. Take your time with it.

 
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Alright so now I'm at the decision point. I have the intake and exhaust manifolds completely removed and can see better. The stud is broken off just below the surface of the head. And it looks like it rusted in place like 20 years ago. A brand new head, free shipping, is $259.99.

My options:

1) Weld nut and try to remove stud

2) Try to use bolt extractors on stud

3) Pull the head and take it to a machine shop to rebuild and drill out stud

4) Buy new head and valves

 
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If the head needs to be pulled and rebuilt and ground anyway, let the shop do it. 

If not, start with the first option and work your way down, skipping number 3. If you bust the extractor in there, the shop cost may exceed the new head price. 

 
Im more of a parts changer mechanic so if I could get a new head and that solved my bolt problem (keeps me from running to the shop, etc) then I would probably go that route

 
Without the boring details, the method that ended up working for me was pulling the head, drilling the stud out, and running a tap back through.

I'll clean the head up before putting it back in. Definitely worth it to replace the head gasket. It wasn't in bad shape, but was old. Taking off the thermostat housing revealed the lack of a thermostat (explains why the engine showed running cool. I thought maybe the gauge wasn't working), plus a bad liquid gasket job. I'll be going back with the suggested felt gasket because I've had good success with those. Throttle body to intake manifold gasket was almost gone. Surprisingly the valve cover gasket was good, but it was felt and I'll be going back with a reusable molded gasket. Valves all seem to be good. Some small carbon build up on pistons 1 and 4, but that's no surprise since the exhaust manifold was missing bolts at those ports. Not enough imo to justify taking the pistons out.

I'll be going back with a new exhaust manifold since it was rusted to the down pipe because they didn't use the graphite gasket between the two. I ended up cutting the down pipe, but I planned on replacing the entire exhaust system because the muffler isn't even connected to the cat anymore.

Luckily Jeep parts are cheap.

 
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glad you got it out or have a plan- 

can you still find parts for the YJ’s these days?  I’ve actually had issues getting parts for my JKu- has to wait on a wiring harness (to the starter) that something chewed through for 4 months - 

I’ve got change out the thermostat on my todo list this weekend as well-  $25 part that will probably involve 2-3 hours just to get all the crap out of the way to get to it :(

 
Yeah the amc 2.5 is pretty easy to get parts for. Just ordered the thermostat off Rock Auto for $0.92 😁

That's one thing I like about older stuff, it's so much easier to work on. Even the 2.4 that jeep switched too was a little painful to deal with.

 
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