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Dangit, Bobby.
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Im going to be due for a new clutch here in the next year or so probably, i am right at 65K miles since it was last done (damn I drive too much)

When I did the front drive shaft conversion last month it got me thinking that with the lift its pretty easy to get under the jeep and (now that I watched a few online videos on jeep clutch replacement ** printed out a google expert certificate) this does look like the bulk of the work is removing shit that is in the way and lowering the transmission is the part that makes my risk sensor go up?  

Other than having to disconnect and lower the tranny, remove the drives shafts the bulk of it appears to be lots of unbolting and bolting things back on?

I think some of yall have done this before but is it worth taking a weekend and learning something new and putting in a clutch for parts at around $800 bucks  or should I just pay the $1800 bucks to have someone do it and enjoy my weekend?
If you have a transmission jack or a helper it's not bad.  You can do it without a transmission jack, it just gets a bit sketchy.  Replace the throwout bearing at the same time if its mechanical.  If its hydraulic, that's your call.  Hydraulic throwout bearings can be a nightmare to bleed sometimes.  I actually have to pull a vacuum on the one in my racecar AND pump from the top, still takes an hour on a good day.  Only specialty tools you should need are a flywheel wrench/stop to keep the engine from turning over while you torque the pressure plate down, and a torque wrench.  

 

Road Guy

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I bought a torgue wrench when I did the front drive shaft - its 15 ft-lbs or 3 ugga guggas

I have one of my older hydraulic jacks I see lots of people use that to lower the transmission?

I may just pay the money but with no ski season this year I need something to do,  - i figure worst case I have it towed to the shop and bring all the pieces in a box?

 

Supe

Dangit, Bobby.
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Don't even need the torque wrench...just go to Google and look up how many ugga duggas it is.
I'm used to my crazy dual clutch racing bits.  My trust of ugga duggas ends at about 7000 RPMs.

I have one of my older hydraulic jacks I see lots of people use that to lower the transmission?
That's what I use, they're just awkward to balance on a little 4" circular pad with a 2x4 on it.  I like to have someone else balance while I lower it or vice versa so I don't have to hold it myself using the thigh master approach.  

 

MA_PE

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Thought I’d post the “rest of the story” with the electrical gremlins on my son’s 09 cobalt.  In addition to the gages acting up his radio stopped working too.  He took it to a local garage.  They asked how long this device was in his CD player.  Apparently his gf gave him a phone holder that is supported by inserting into the CD slot.  He said it likely been there 6 months or so.   They said they took it out and everything started behaving as it should.  The thought it that this device somehow activated the CD player to think a CD had been inserted and the player mechanism was trying to read it constantly causing static/noise that corrupted the signal to his gages.  Sounds plausible and so far so good.   Only charged him $40 for the check.   Fingers crossed that’s all it was.   I never heard of such a phone holder and never would’ve thought that could be the cause.

 

Road Guy

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That is crazy if thats what caused it?  is it still working okay?

 

bwin12

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Fine, I'll ask because we all want to know, but nobody will ask: Can we get a BMW BItch update? 

 

jeb6294

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We got a copy of the report and it says on the first page that vehicle 01.was at fault but a couple pages later there’s nothing about her getting cited. Says she went left of center but it also says we failed to yield. I guess her insurance is using that as an excuse to say it’s not their problem. Wife called the sheriff to ask how they came up with that nonsense while I was ranting in the background. So, what, we failed to yield to someone who was driving down the wrong side of the road?

Wife called our insurance and they told us to take it in and get it fixed and then they would sue her insurance because they also agreed that BMW bitch was clearly at fault.

 

jeb6294

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On a separate but slightly connected not, the wife got a new car yesterday. She’d been talking about getting something small with better gas mileage but we put it on hold until we knew what was going on with the minivan. Since the minivan is getting fixed, she picked up a 2020 VW Jetta. She was looking at used stuff,  but I guess COVID slowed sales so much, that the 2020’s were better deals. Turbo 4-cyl with a 6-speed manual...it’s really nice for a base model and a lot of fun to drive.

image.jpeg

 

Road Guy

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man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!

early xmas gift to myself?

 

chart94

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man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!

early xmas gift to myself?
Yes. Treat yourself!

 

bwin12

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man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!

early xmas gift to myself?
1. I thought Craig, CO was the meth capital

2. Pueblo is the Grow House Capital of CO (maybe USA/World, but no facts to back that up)

3. Yes, buy 1 or 2 and only if it has a 258 I-6

In the late 90's I bought a '79 CJ-5 that I drove around the farm/woods that I grew up on. Loved that thing. My dad brought me to the tire shop and we grabbed a matching set of 33x12.50's that were cupped really bad and not good on pavement anymore. They rubbed (a lot) but looked awesome. I remember if I ever rolled it over my head would have been the first line of defense because the floor where the rollcage mounted was so rusted out.  

 

bwin12

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This is my kids snowmobile. I’m trying to remove the drive sprocket from the jack shaft. I assume it’s been corroding and essentially welding the 3/4” shaft and key connection together for the last 15 years. The picture shows a 3 jaw puller and I’ve bent the sprocket outwards so much it’s ready to explode off there. 
 

I checked a parts diagram, it’s suppose to slide off, there’s no set screw or other securing devise.
 

Before I popped the rivets and removed the footwell/dead pedal I used wedges on the 3 sides I could reach. I’ve soaked it in PB Blaster. 

Is there anything I can do other than add heat? Or start cutting with a disc grinder? 

2B44FD07-363D-4878-9012-E93B2943C245.jpeg

 

blybrook PE

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Typically when you've already put enough pressure to warp the gear, heat isn't going to help right away. 

Using a brass punch held by a set of pliers and a 2 lb Sledge, hit the center casing on the gear near the shear key slot. Rotate and hit again.

The vibration in conjunction with the pressure is usually enough to pop it loose without getting out the torch or grinder. 

 

bwin12

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The vibration in conjunction with the pressure is usually enough to pop it loose without getting out the torch or grinder. 
Finally got around to it (the garage is right under bedrooms, which severely cuts down on hammering time) and after cranking on the puller and hammering around the shaft and key it finally came off. Thanks for the advice. 

The new sprocket has a hub so different tooth configurations can be utilized, so I or the next owner should never have this issue again. 

 

DVINNY

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I'm always dealing with an automobile issue of some sort,

current problem:
my 16 year old took my LJ Wrangler and slid sideways into a tree at a decent speed off-road. About $7K worth of damage.

on the bright side, I'm using this as an opportunity to remove the old shitty Rough Country lift and am installing a MetalCloak 3.5" kit that is much better.
 

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