We haven't heard from the police yet. I can't imagine they wouldn't find her to be at fault, but with the way 2020 has gone so far, who knows.OOF -that always sucks. But they did cite her I hope?
When we just went through all this with Mrs. Supe's CRV, they did everything up to the point of actually cutting the check ahead of time. They won't release the check until the investigation determines their driver is at fault, and that it's not no fault/shared fault, regardless of what their customer says. You should be able to search daily for the police report to show up, we weren't notified by the PD when it was ready.Her insurance company called today. They talked to the wife since she was driving so I didn't hear exactly what they said, but I heard her tell them a couple times that we haven't even gotten the report from the police yet so I'm wondering if the other chick is trying to say it wasn't her fault. I called our insurance this morning too to at least get the claim process started. So far the only good thing is that her insurance (Grange) and ours (USAA) have the body shop a couple miles from our house on their list of recommended shops so I'm taking it in tomorrow and get an estimate and then figure out which insurance company is going to get the bill once we get the police report.
Of course she is--she was driving a BMW after all. Nothing's her fault.I'm wondering if the other chick is trying to say it wasn't her fault.
That's when you just ignore her. Crash your car on private property hidden from the road if you don't want people taking pictures of it, Karen.She started bitching when my wife took a picture of her car. “I’d appreciate it if you wouldn’t take any pictures of my car until the police get here”. Not sure what her problem was, other than the fact she’d just hit us, or what difference it makes whether the cops were there or not.
I don't know how this could possibly be a fuse issue. Once a fuse is blown, it's blown. There should be no intermittent faults caused by a fuse.My son noticed his 2009 cobalt spilling gas whenever he filled it up but wasn’t leaking otherwise. Took it to a local Firestone shop on the AFB where he is currently stationed. They said it was the filler neck and they could replace it for him. Well a week and $450 later he picks up the car and his tach and fuel gage start acting funny. They read and then drop to zero momentarily and then spring back up. Both gages do this like every 5 seconds or so with the car idling. This is in the parking lot before he left the shop. He goes back into the shop and says WTF the car never did this before. Their reply is that it’s an instrument cluster issue and they never touched the cluster so it’s not their problem. Sounds like they may have loosened the connector at the fuel gage sender and no he’s got intermittent ground. Looked online and found this response “You are losing GMLan between BCM and your instrument panel. Try changing the top left hand fuse on BCM fuse block called ECM/TCM. It should really be called GMLan.”. Found a similar reply at a different site. Anybody have any ideas?
If you have a transmission jack or a helper it's not bad. You can do it without a transmission jack, it just gets a bit sketchy. Replace the throwout bearing at the same time if its mechanical. If its hydraulic, that's your call. Hydraulic throwout bearings can be a nightmare to bleed sometimes. I actually have to pull a vacuum on the one in my racecar AND pump from the top, still takes an hour on a good day. Only specialty tools you should need are a flywheel wrench/stop to keep the engine from turning over while you torque the pressure plate down, and a torque wrench.Im going to be due for a new clutch here in the next year or so probably, i am right at 65K miles since it was last done (damn I drive too much)
When I did the front drive shaft conversion last month it got me thinking that with the lift its pretty easy to get under the jeep and (now that I watched a few online videos on jeep clutch replacement ** printed out a google expert certificate) this does look like the bulk of the work is removing shit that is in the way and lowering the transmission is the part that makes my risk sensor go up?
Other than having to disconnect and lower the tranny, remove the drives shafts the bulk of it appears to be lots of unbolting and bolting things back on?
I think some of yall have done this before but is it worth taking a weekend and learning something new and putting in a clutch for parts at around $800 bucks or should I just pay the $1800 bucks to have someone do it and enjoy my weekend?
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