The Automotive Thread
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jeb6294
Well-known member
We haven't heard from the police yet. I can't imagine they wouldn't find her to be at fault, but with the way 2020 has gone so far, who knows.
Road Guy
Well-known member
I hate when they dont immidealty say who is at fault and not give you a report (or the cliff notes)- some insurance companies are real jerks if they dont assign someone 100% at fault. - Hope you get taken care of!
So we were changing the brakes on my sons car saturday since he was home from college and they were starting to squeak some..
When I was compressing the brake piston back in I noticed some brake fluid dripping down from the egine area, **** i thought. I am always very careful to not pull on the brake lines but further inspection revealed the cap to the brake fluid was lose and I guess when I compressed the piston it pushed brake fluid that direction and caused it to run out? Seemed odd, I tightened the cap and it hasnt leaked anymore, drove it around and it all seems to check out?
So we were changing the brakes on my sons car saturday since he was home from college and they were starting to squeak some..
When I was compressing the brake piston back in I noticed some brake fluid dripping down from the egine area, **** i thought. I am always very careful to not pull on the brake lines but further inspection revealed the cap to the brake fluid was lose and I guess when I compressed the piston it pushed brake fluid that direction and caused it to run out? Seemed odd, I tightened the cap and it hasnt leaked anymore, drove it around and it all seems to check out?
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jeb6294
Well-known member
Her insurance company called today. They talked to the wife since she was driving so I didn't hear exactly what they said, but I heard her tell them a couple times that we haven't even gotten the report from the police yet so I'm wondering if the other chick is trying to say it wasn't her fault. I called our insurance this morning too to at least get the claim process started. So far the only good thing is that her insurance (Grange) and ours (USAA) have the body shop a couple miles from our house on their list of recommended shops so I'm taking it in tomorrow and get an estimate and then figure out which insurance company is going to get the bill once we get the police report.
When we just went through all this with Mrs. Supe's CRV, they did everything up to the point of actually cutting the check ahead of time. They won't release the check until the investigation determines their driver is at fault, and that it's not no fault/shared fault, regardless of what their customer says. You should be able to search daily for the police report to show up, we weren't notified by the PD when it was ready.
jeb6294
Well-known member
She started bitching when my wife took a picture of her car. “I’d appreciate it if you wouldn’t take any pictures of my car until the police get here”. Not sure what her problem was, other than the fact she’d just hit us, or what difference it makes whether the cops were there or not.
That's when you just ignore her. Crash your car on private property hidden from the road if you don't want people taking pictures of it, Karen.
Road Guy
Well-known member
also another reminder to get a dash camera -
yesterday on the way home some dude (audi this time) gets on the interstate, cuts through 5 lanes to the HOV lanes in one manuever only to do the same thing and get right back off 2 exits later... wish I could add some missles to my jeep some days..
yesterday on the way home some dude (audi this time) gets on the interstate, cuts through 5 lanes to the HOV lanes in one manuever only to do the same thing and get right back off 2 exits later... wish I could add some missles to my jeep some days..
jeb6294
Well-known member
Ran to the body shop this afternoon. The drivers door still works but we haven’t done anything with the sliding door cause, right now it’s still drivable, and I’m afraid if we try to move it we won’t be able to get it shut. Body shop guy didn’t try either but he crawled underneath to look. For the estimate they just priced new doors since they couldn’t see what was going on behind the door. Couldn’t believe it when it showed up and it was $3,500.
TBH, I don’t think the wife or I would have been terribly upset if it was worse and they totaled it. We’d been looking at possible replacements. At the same time, it’s also not the best time to be taking on a new car so if it can be fixed, that’s probably best.
TBH, I don’t think the wife or I would have been terribly upset if it was worse and they totaled it. We’d been looking at possible replacements. At the same time, it’s also not the best time to be taking on a new car so if it can be fixed, that’s probably best.
When I saw how mangled Mrs. Supe's door was, I was amazingly impressed that it did zero damage to the rocker or pillar, so you may get lucky on a "not too terrible to fix" front. We had the dealership do the repairs and I'm glad we did. They were really fast, and fixed everything I was unhappy with, including ordering two pieces of replacement trim that aren't adjustable that I didn't like how the first set of replacements fit (rocker guards and B pillar). There's some orange peel in one spot if you know where to look (I'm probably the only person who will EVER notice it) and they got a bit careless with the seam sealer on one part of the interior door jamb, but we just wanted the car back at that point. The dealership also did an electronics check, which a lot of body shop places won't do, to make sure there were no issues with airbags/sensors, window relays, etc.
jeb6294
Well-known member
You can see the rocker is wrinkled when you open the drivers door, but he said that's the hollow metal so they can usually repair that kind of stuff. The high strength stuff underneath, which would have to be replaced if it's damaged, he said looked good.
That same door was hit before right after we got it...we were dropping the kid off at school and then going to our second oil change when we were hit. Since it was still new, we took it to the shop the dealership recommended which wasn't a good idea. The sliding door has been a bit wonky ever since. You could hit the button to open it and on random occasions it would open and then turn right around and start closing on it's own. If it gets fixed, hopefully they'll do it right this time.
That same door was hit before right after we got it...we were dropping the kid off at school and then going to our second oil change when we were hit. Since it was still new, we took it to the shop the dealership recommended which wasn't a good idea. The sliding door has been a bit wonky ever since. You could hit the button to open it and on random occasions it would open and then turn right around and start closing on it's own. If it gets fixed, hopefully they'll do it right this time.
jeb6294
Well-known member
The Kings Auto Mall is in Kings Mill a bit north of town in an area that used to be the middle of nowhere. It became a conglomerate of a bunch of different dealerships in the same spot. They're not all owned by the same person/group, but they share some stuff. There's one service center that does several makes and there's one body shop that most of them use.
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*is in this thread to learn but to also follow amazing story of jeb and the BMW bitch*
Road Guy
Well-known member
Im going to be due for a new clutch here in the next year or so probably, i am right at 65K miles since it was last done (damn I drive too much)
When I did the front drive shaft conversion last month it got me thinking that with the lift its pretty easy to get under the jeep and (now that I watched a few online videos on jeep clutch replacement ** printed out a google expert certificate) this does look like the bulk of the work is removing **** that is in the way and lowering the transmission is the part that makes my risk sensor go up?
Other than having to disconnect and lower the tranny, remove the drives shafts the bulk of it appears to be lots of unbolting and bolting things back on?
I think some of yall have done this before but is it worth taking a weekend and learning something new and putting in a clutch for parts at around $800 bucks or should I just pay the $1800 bucks to have someone do it and enjoy my weekend?
When I did the front drive shaft conversion last month it got me thinking that with the lift its pretty easy to get under the jeep and (now that I watched a few online videos on jeep clutch replacement ** printed out a google expert certificate) this does look like the bulk of the work is removing **** that is in the way and lowering the transmission is the part that makes my risk sensor go up?
Other than having to disconnect and lower the tranny, remove the drives shafts the bulk of it appears to be lots of unbolting and bolting things back on?
I think some of yall have done this before but is it worth taking a weekend and learning something new and putting in a clutch for parts at around $800 bucks or should I just pay the $1800 bucks to have someone do it and enjoy my weekend?
My son noticed his 2009 cobalt spilling gas whenever he filled it up but wasn’t leaking otherwise. Took it to a local Firestone shop on the AFB where he is currently stationed. They said it was the filler neck and they could replace it for him. Well a week and $450 later he picks up the car and his tach and fuel gage start acting funny. They read and then drop to zero momentarily and then spring back up. Both gages do this like every 5 seconds or so with the car idling. This is in the parking lot before he left the shop. He goes back into the shop and says WTF the car never did this before. Their reply is that it’s an instrument cluster issue and they never touched the cluster so it’s not their problem. Sounds like they may have loosened the connector at the fuel gage sender and no he’s got intermittent ground. Looked online and found this response “You are losing GMLan between BCM and your instrument panel. Try changing the top left hand fuse on BCM fuse block called ECM/TCM. It should really be called GMLan.”. Found a similar reply at a different site. Anybody have any ideas?
wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
I don't know how this could possibly be a fuse issue. Once a fuse is blown, it's blown. There should be no intermittent faults caused by a fuse.
The loose ground sounds far more likely. A loose ground on a car causes all kinds of wonky ****.
If you have a transmission jack or a helper it's not bad. You can do it without a transmission jack, it just gets a bit sketchy. Replace the throwout bearing at the same time if its mechanical. If its hydraulic, that's your call. Hydraulic throwout bearings can be a nightmare to bleed sometimes. I actually have to pull a vacuum on the one in my racecar AND pump from the top, still takes an hour on a good day. Only specialty tools you should need are a flywheel wrench/stop to keep the engine from turning over while you torque the pressure plate down, and a torque wrench.
