If you have the "I'm an idiot who can't write TIME!", I'm sure someone will explain it to you.I do not understand what this is about.
I don't. So now what?If you have the "I'm an idiot who can't write TIME!", I'm sure someone will explain it to you.
Definitely don't have time if you're starting up your own business.I don't. So now what?
Yeah, our Thanksgiving is usually pretty laid back, but looking forward to a laid back Christmas.Am I the only one who is looking forward to Thanksgiving this year without the hassle?
no travel, no cooking/cleaning up after a large dinner and 4 days off from work. I can live with that.
Just bought new phones online. Took longer than expected but still better than going to the carrier store.Why does it takes so damn long to buy and activate a cell phone?! I mean, between waiting in the store, then actually getting serviced and activating the phone is like two+ hours. Buying a car only takes a little bit longer than that.
Which one did you buy again? Auto bed leveling is a pretty advanced feature. Do you have any problems with prints not sticking to the print bed? I have a Solidoodle 2 that I got over 7 years ago. It has a heated bed, and I've put an enclosure on it, used glass plates with hairspray, acetone, etc., and bought specific plastic plates designed to help prints stick, and I still have peeling issues regularly. It's infuriating. I would print so much more if it wasn't a colossal PITA every time I used it.My little budget 3D printer keeps on trucking, and getting better and better. It wasn't supposed to have wifi connectivity, but it does, and the most recent firmware update added auto-leveling which I'm super pumped about. The bed on this unit can't be manually leveled, but I knew it wasn't perfectly level based on the first layer extrusion looking way too thin in spots. Used the auto level calibration last night, and first layers are perfect now. It was out about .020" in certain spots.
FlashForge Adventurer 3 Lite. Bed is driven on the Y axis by a drive rod on the left side, and just a roller wheel on the right, so no manual adjustments. The build plate is removable plastic that slides in and out - the heater plate is spring loaded and pushes it up flush with the retaining "nubs" on the bed. It uses one of the textured build plate stickers, probably like what you already have. Printing with a raft, no issue. Without a raft, wouldn't stick worth a damn. As soon as I used some purple gluestick, zero adhesion issues other than one print which I overcooked and it warped like hell. The auto-leveling was pretty good - it used to be a single center point calibration, but the latest firmware update pushed out the 9 point calibration. You can adjust in .010" incremenets. I use the "just starts to drag on a piece of paper" feeler gauge approach and it seems to work well.Which one did you buy again? Auto bed leveling is a pretty advanced feature. Do you have any problems with prints not sticking to the print bed? I have a Solidoodle 2 that I got over 7 years ago. It has a heated bed, and I've put an enclosure on it, used glass plates with hairspray, acetone, etc., and bought specific plastic plates designed to help prints stick, and I still have peeling issues regularly. It's infuriating. I would print so much more if it wasn't a colossal PITA every time I used it.
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