EB Cycling Club
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csb
Well-known member
When we race, we race at about 8000 feet. Oxygen is a nice thing you don't appreciate nearly enough.
csb
Well-known member
I really don't think there's anything wrong with a starter bike.
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=50132686&cp=4406646.4413993.32195696.32923736.13127596
Buy it. If you buy it and realize it's not what you wanted, look at it like you rented it for six months. I had a bike I bought, rode for awhile, then traded in. It wasn't exactly what I wanted, but it was enough to let me know I wanted to try a recumbent.
I've got the feeling the used market is a crapshoot where you are and that trying out a new bike might be what you need. So what if it's a BSO (which I don't think it will be).
The flipside to that is a bike at a bike shop has a price that includes professional assembly and typically they will make sure you're semi-fitted to the bike and will also throw in a tune up after you've ridden it for a month because cables stretch out. Is this place near you?
http://www.ultimatebicycle.com/product/trek-marlin-6-209651-1.htm
That bike seems like it would be a lot of fun. Plus if you go to the "About Us" everyone who works there has a fantastic beard. I also like the vibe about their shop.
Or fly out here and I'll take you to my favorite bike shop. It's probably cheaper to go to one near you, though.
http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=50132686&cp=4406646.4413993.32195696.32923736.13127596
Buy it. If you buy it and realize it's not what you wanted, look at it like you rented it for six months. I had a bike I bought, rode for awhile, then traded in. It wasn't exactly what I wanted, but it was enough to let me know I wanted to try a recumbent.
I've got the feeling the used market is a crapshoot where you are and that trying out a new bike might be what you need. So what if it's a BSO (which I don't think it will be).
The flipside to that is a bike at a bike shop has a price that includes professional assembly and typically they will make sure you're semi-fitted to the bike and will also throw in a tune up after you've ridden it for a month because cables stretch out. Is this place near you?
http://www.ultimatebicycle.com/product/trek-marlin-6-209651-1.htm
That bike seems like it would be a lot of fun. Plus if you go to the "About Us" everyone who works there has a fantastic beard. I also like the vibe about their shop.
Or fly out here and I'll take you to my favorite bike shop. It's probably cheaper to go to one near you, though.
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csb
Well-known member
Also, they sell Surly bikes, which are really neat bikes. Sturdy as hell.
It looks like Dicks may have some of the smaller frame bikes back in stock. I will try to get there and check it out. Otherwise, I am not too far from the other place. I may stop by one night this week. They don't say if they sell any used stuff or not.
csb
Well-known member
You might just stop in and tell them what your budget is like and see what they can point you towards. My LBS has bikes from $300-$3000. Good bike shops will take care of every biker, not just carbon fiber bikers.
Just as a point of reference on the DB Axis XE vs. their top of the line Pro Comp ($1800 MSRP), the Pro Comp has better tires, derailleurs, cogset, brakes, and front fork/shock. The two share the same frame, wheels, grips/handlebars, and hubs. In all honesty, that's more similarities than even I would have given credit for. As hard as I will never push this bike, probably the only real difference that someone like me would notice would be the front shock, which is some fancy-valved Fox on the front vs. the Suntour on the XE.
csb
Well-known member
I have Suntour on my daily rider. I can hop over most things.
That's about twice what I wanted to spend. I checked out the one near our mall. Everything on the floor had a $1000 price tag and up. They are supposed to carry some Diamondback, Ghost, and Cannondales with a smaller price tag, but didn't have any there, and those were still in the $600-up range. Cheapest ones they had on the floor was a $1000 Cannondale 29er and it's Diamondback 29er equivalent.
Have you looked at the Giant Sedona or Sedona DX? They sound similar to what you're looking for and in a lower price range without being total crap. http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/series/sedona/18751/
I had, actually. I felt the on-sale Diamondback was the better bike at that price point, and the Giant's smallest frame was (surprisingly) an 18", which would be on the big side for me.
So I ended up pulling the trigger on the 16" (small) frame Diamondback Axis last night, after a frustrating go-around with the idiots at Dick's. I winced while paying since their manager said their 90 day return policy is ONLY if you don't ride it, which was contrary to what the dweeb with the headset told me 2 minutes prior.
I tried the 18" frame out, and that was an immediate no-go. Even with flat tires and up on my tip-toes, I could not straddle the frame without having my plums split in twain.
With the 16", I have about 3/4"-1" of clearance or so. I was a bit concerned that the frame was too small once I got it home. As I sat on it, I felt a bit squished relative to my knee/leg placement, and it seemed as though toe clipping would be a bit of an issue. Hopped online and found a nifty page on basic adjustments as to what your position/feel should be. Moving the seat up and back made a world of difference. Needs to be moved back even more, but no longer feels as though it will be too small. If the final seat adjustment doesn't do it, I'll take the damned thing back. I just started off way too low - I suppose being programmed to ride BMX as a kid where you never sat on the seat unless you were coasting down the street, so you just put it as low as it could be. The bike is probably a BIT on the short side front to rear, but with my build, the only other option would be finding a bike with a short frame and a longer, more radically raked (lower in the rear) top tube. However, I've still got some forward lean on this bike, and if I had to, could always push the handlebars out some.
My one big disappointment with the bike is the worlds SHITTIEST plastic pedals. Any recommendations for a low profile, grippy pair of no-clip pedals that won't break the bank?
Oh yeah - I never gave much thought about it, but never thought the front shocks on these things would be so damned soft. Being a fatass doesn't help. I suspect I will ride it with a fair bit of preload until parts go flying, and then upgrade to a "real" front shock somewhere down the road.
I tried the 18" frame out, and that was an immediate no-go. Even with flat tires and up on my tip-toes, I could not straddle the frame without having my plums split in twain.
With the 16", I have about 3/4"-1" of clearance or so. I was a bit concerned that the frame was too small once I got it home. As I sat on it, I felt a bit squished relative to my knee/leg placement, and it seemed as though toe clipping would be a bit of an issue. Hopped online and found a nifty page on basic adjustments as to what your position/feel should be. Moving the seat up and back made a world of difference. Needs to be moved back even more, but no longer feels as though it will be too small. If the final seat adjustment doesn't do it, I'll take the damned thing back. I just started off way too low - I suppose being programmed to ride BMX as a kid where you never sat on the seat unless you were coasting down the street, so you just put it as low as it could be. The bike is probably a BIT on the short side front to rear, but with my build, the only other option would be finding a bike with a short frame and a longer, more radically raked (lower in the rear) top tube. However, I've still got some forward lean on this bike, and if I had to, could always push the handlebars out some.
My one big disappointment with the bike is the worlds SHITTIEST plastic pedals. Any recommendations for a low profile, grippy pair of no-clip pedals that won't break the bank?
Oh yeah - I never gave much thought about it, but never thought the front shocks on these things would be so damned soft. Being a fatass doesn't help. I suspect I will ride it with a fair bit of preload until parts go flying, and then upgrade to a "real" front shock somewhere down the road.
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wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
When I had a MTB, I locked out the front shock. It still gave enough cushion for really hard bumps, but I also didn't like the squishyness of the front shock. Shocks are really only for trail riding where it is necessary...if you are on the road, it saps power since part of every pedal stroke goes a little into compressing the shock instead of forward movement.
Do you want just flat pedals, or "clipless" pedals? The latter is a completely different beast that requires different shoes. I'm sure just about any normal, flat pedal constructed of steel or aluminum will be fine and fairly cheap (<$10). Clipless pedals, which I do recommend, will be substantially more expensive, especially when you take the shoes into account.
Do you want just flat pedals, or "clipless" pedals? The latter is a completely different beast that requires different shoes. I'm sure just about any normal, flat pedal constructed of steel or aluminum will be fine and fairly cheap (<$10). Clipless pedals, which I do recommend, will be substantially more expensive, especially when you take the shoes into account.
wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
Looks like there is a little blue lever on the top surface of one of the forks. If you turn that lever, it should lock out the shocks.
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