Basement Finishing thread...

[Dexman1349]

Try a local lumber yard. I gave up entirely on Lowes/Home Cheapo when building a shed in my backyard in regards to straight lumber. It'll save a LOT of headache.

The only other way to get straight lumber is to buy a full bunk that is still bound and is near the bottom of the stack. It also helps if you can find a bunk that hasn't been out in the elements (even if it was covered with a tarp) in which case you can just pull what you need. This is easier to find in the larger and newer versions of HD or Lowes, but the older & smaller ones is impossible.

The HD down the road from my house is only 8-10 years old and was built with a completely indoor drive-thru lumber section. Even the delivery trucks unload inside. I've never had issues finding straight lumber there.

 

[Road Guy]

i think they have all been run out of town by the big box stores

 

[jeb6294]

Try a local lumber yard. I gave up entirely on Lowes/Home Cheapo when building a shed in my backyard in regards to straight lumber. It'll save a LOT of headache.

There used to be one down the road that was a nice find. It was more expensive but the wood was better and if you ordered more than a certain dollar figure, I think it was $100, they would deliver it for free. They went out of business a few years ago...they were able to survive HD, but once the new Lowes went in their days were numbered.

Do your HD's and Lowes have different grades of lumber? I think some of them have lumber that's a little more expensive but it's supposed to be a little higher quality.

 

[Road Guy]

the other two rooms I have to have 14' length, I am going to go look and see if they make metal studs in that length?

there used to be a Lummus Building Supply in acworth, I am going to look and see, but I only need 40 or 50 of them, i guess thats worth delivering (to them)?

 

[Dexman1349]

Most genuine lumber stores (including SOME HD's and Lowes) have different lumber grades. The higher grades do command higher prices, but once you factor in the headaches of un-warping the low-quality boards, the extra $ is usually worth it.

 

[Road Guy]

I will check that out as well, both the HD & Lowes around me are fairly new but I only saw one section of untreated 2X4's.

 

[jeb6294]

There used to be one down the road that was a nice find. It was more expensive but the wood was better and if you ordered more than a certain dollar figure, I think it was $100, they would deliver it for free. They went out of business a few years ago...they were able to survive HD, but once the new Lowes went in their days were numbered.
Do your HD's and Lowes have different grades of lumber? I think some of them have lumber that's a little more expensive but it's supposed to be a little higher quality.

Most genuine lumber stores (including SOME HD's and Lowes) have different lumber grades. The higher grades do command higher prices, but once you factor in the headaches of un-warping the low-quality boards, the extra $ is usually worth it.

The funny thing is that to get the same quality lumber at HD or Lowes ended up costing pretty much the same because you'd have to buy the better 2x4's to get what you were getting at the local yard, and then yo got the free delivery to boot. I suppose you can rent the HD flat bed pick-up truck for $19.95 an hour...does that count as delivery?

 

[Road Guy]

in all reality nailing together two 2x4x8's was actually pretty easy, they fit in my trailer better and are easier to get into the basement. probably not the way the "real builders" do it, but it may work out easier than going store to store, cause I honestly dont think there is a mom & pop lumber store anywhere near my house...

 

[Supe]

in all reality nailing together two 2x4x8's was actually pretty easy, they fit in my trailer better and are easier to get into the basement. probably not the way the "real builders" do it, but it may work out easier than going store to store, cause I honestly dont think there is a mom & pop lumber store anywhere near my house...

Some are contractor-only, which stinks.

Back in CT, I found not only was the wood cheaper at the lumber yard, but it took a matter of minutes to pick out straight boards, and I didn't even have to sift through, their staff did that for me. I picked everything up in my truck (8ft bed.)

 

[humner]

I bought one of those cheaper spinning laser levels

I guess you never heard of using a garden hose with a 2' to 3' piece of clear tubing on each end. Best level you can have for doing a dropped ceiling. The hose is filled with water, about halfway up each clear tube. Simple corks can be put in each end until you are ready to use the level. Don't remove them until they are near the working height.. I use a dry erase marker to mark one tube. Then have someone hold it to wall where you want the ceiling to be at mark level(Taping to a broom stick makes it easier to hold in place). Walk the other end around the room, at the water level, mark the wall. Remember, water seeks its own level. Note: make sure the air bubbles are all out of the hose too.

 

[nashbmattPE]

any more progress on the basement RG?

 

[Road Guy]

I am slowly working on the ceiling and boxing out around the hvac, plumber had to reschedule he was supposed to run the new lines ans install tub so I could go ahead nx frame out the bathroom but he couldn't make it Friday, which worked out cause we left early to go out of town.

I am hoping to get some time ove the holidays to finish the ceiling frameout and then start screwing with the Sheetrock in January...

 

[Road Guy]

I am slowly working on the ceiling and boxing out around the hvac, plumber had to reschedule he was supposed to run the new lines ans install tub so I could go ahead nx frame out the bathroom but he couldn't make it Friday, which worked out cause we left early to go out of town.

I am hoping to get some time ove the holidays to finish the ceiling frameout and then start screwing with the Sheetrock in January...

 

[Road Guy]

I dont know why i end up doing this but I have been working on this on and off, a lot of times when the wife is asleep (she works nights) so i end up doing the framing with a cordless screw driver, which works but isnt efficient.. so this past weekend she has to work and kids are at grandmas so I am wasting time with the screw gun, and then I think to myself, damn I own a framing nail gun, so it was amazing how much quicker things go with a framing nail gun!

also I those quick clamps are a life saver when your trying to hang 14' lumber over your head, only dropped one 2x4x14 on my head, yeah that still hurts.. I have framed out all the ceiling i can until I get a plumber in here.. so damn aggrevating calling people to get estimates, arranging to meet them, etc, etc, etc,

well here are some picture updates:

this is a shot showing some of the ceiling and frame out for the hvac, very much a pain in the ***

same thing just looking back the other way

this is the backroom, where the other hvac, hot water heater and stuff is

opening into where the ******* will be, and a shot of the new heat pump..

 

[nashbmattPE]

coming along

 

[Road Guy]

well I have been thinking about the basement bathroom.. the builder roughed it in in an odd place, the way it is the toilet opening is only 30" from the wall, so I can either have a open out door, and then a small sink, and then the toilet, or have it really bass akwards and have a door that opens into the bathroom, then you will hit the toilet first, tub on the right, and then the sink after the toilet..

after thinking about this I am thinking about changing the layout (doing some sawcutting of the basement floor) and putting the toilet where it should?

I dont think the extra plumbing will cost me much to move it if I do the cutting and digging myself?

here's my layout, its a crappy scan,,, need to get it into a cad package ..

 

[jeb6294]

I'll have to see if I can find this simple little program I used when I wanted to draw up plans for my basement. It's like a really basic CAD program that lets you place furniture and then you can flip the whole thing and see it in 3-D. I wouldn't use it to do any precise design work but it is a nice way to get an idea as to how your layouts going to look.

 

[FLBuff PE]

I think Google Sketch-up might be what you are thinking of. I guy I went to college with works for Google in Boulder, and they just released a new version.

 

[Santiagj]

Putting a rough in is not that difficult especially in a new house where you have pvc. I just put in a rough in in my basement several months ago. My house was built in 54 so i had a cast iron stack I was tapping into. It wasnt hard at all. Took me and my dad a day and a half. I was able to borrow a concrete saw and a jackhammer. The rental costs shouldn't be that much. In total I spent less than 200 bucks. I would recommend spending the time and moving the toilet to a proper space. You will be wishing you had once you have the basement done and by then its too late.

If I had to redo it again I would forgo the concrete saw. It was nice because it made clean cuts but the dust it kicked up was phenominal even when it was being wetted down. I don't think it is worth it. You can do the whole thing with a jackhammer and you won't have to wear a respirator. The concrete is going to be covered up so who cares if there is an ugly seem in the concrete.

 

[MA_PE]

So that's your current layout? Why can't you use a pocket door opening to the right (behind the tub) and leave it the way it is? Bi-fold door is also an option. Agreed you don't want a full door opening out and hitting the toilet going in would annoy me, too.