The Automotive Thread

[NJmike PE]

She's gotta learn to stop burnin up her trans. 5 yrs ago it was the transfer case in this car and now this.

 

[Road Guy]

You need to withhold sex until she learns to drive correctly zzzzz

 

[NJmike PE]

You need to withhold sex until she learns to drive correctly zzzzz

Maybe she already thinks that I'm a bad driver... :dunno:

 

[wilheldp_PE]

goodyear assurance triple treads are nice. They have been the replacement tires bought for all my cars. expensive as all get out because they are 80k mile tires but they handle the midwest weather nicely.

My car needs new shoes. It is sitting at 61k miles on the original tires, never rotated. I'm getting quotes for ~$600 for Tripletreds out the door (tires, install, tax, old tire disposal, and free rotations). Good deal or no?

 

[Ship Wreck PE]

The last set of Michelins that I put on my 250

Set me back $1400.00, so $600.00 sounds great.

 

[wilheldp_PE]

This is an '08 Nissan Altima, so $600 sounds steep to me.

 

[Road Guy]

Yeah us truck and SUV drivers Would say $600 is a deal.....

 

[blybrook PE]

I paid 700 for 2 truck tires and 600 for 4 trailer tires (10 ply). It sounds fairly reasonable.

 

[Dexman PE PMP]

I'm looking at close to $600 for only the rear tires on Bee...

 

[MA_PE]

$150/wheel sounds ok for an Altima. Must be well-known brand like bridgestone or michelin.

Did you look on tirerack.com for some yokos or other lesser known brands? might be cheaper.

 

[wilheldp_PE]

I was just taking the suggestion from this thread that TripleTreds are the way to go. I could get some Kuhmos or cheaper Firestones, for ~$100/tire, but the TripleTreds are guaranteed for 80k miles.

 

[akwooly]

I bought some yoko geolanders for $840 (4 tires) on amazon prime. Cheapest place for 18" wheels LT load range d tires.

 

[Supe]

So, it turns out that for $1000 bucks, I can add aftermarket traction control to the racecar that is designed to work specifically with my engine management system (works based on driveshaft speed, and learns the acceleration rate/adapts to changing conditions).

I'm wondering if I should go that path despite the price, since that sort of system would have prevented the exact type of very expensive wreck that I had at my last race - it will pull power out if you start to spin the tires coming out of an apex or over a pavement transition. Thinking of it as an insurance policy, given how fragile the car is now, and the amount of money I have sunk into it.

 

[csb]

Need some help.

My car is a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid. I just replaced the brakes and rotors last month and have never had any problems with it.

Until two days ago.

Headed up the mountains when I have a sudden loss of power and then a grating sound in the engine. Had to have it towed home. I'm guessing the engine is shot, but won't know for sure until the mechanic calls tomorrow.

What would you guys do if it is the engine? Replace it? Or figure the car is 8 years old and start looking for a new ride?

 

[NJmike PE]

Timing belt?

 

[blybrook PE]

Coulda been a timing belt like NJ suggested. Hard to tell with your description though. Was it still running, just lacking power or dead in the water?

You will be better off long run to replace the engine with a short block if the rest of the vehicle is in good shape should the timing belt have gone and the engine stopped working. Usually under 2k for engine swap compared to total vehicle replacement.

 

[csb]

That's what a mechanic friend suggested- the short block. The gas engine is only a 4-cylinder, because it's partnered with the hybrid engine.

 

[Road Guy]

Tough call... I just know when a vehicle starts costing me close to a payment every other month I usually tend to just get a new(er) vehicle....

If my tahoe (2002) engine died today I would replace the engine cause I just don't want a payment right now and I don't have enough to pay cash for one...

I hate car payments and I also hate putting a bunch of money into old cars....

 

[csb]

Coulda been a timing belt like NJ suggested. Hard to tell with your description though. Was it still running, just lacking power or dead in the water? You will be better off long run to replace the engine with a short block if the rest of the vehicle is in good shape should the timing belt have gone and the engine stopped working. Usually under 2k for engine swap compared to total vehicle replacement.

And to answer the question, it was still running, but making an awful metal grinding sound. It almost sounded like the old Operation game when the metal buzzer would go, but grinding. We put oil in it and the sound quieted down, but it still didn't sound normal.

I am also in the hating car payments. Having just replaced brakes and rotors, I'm inclined to keep it. I mean, the shocks can go and then other crap can go, but I'm not quite at the "a new car would be a good idea" point. Tomorrow's news might change that. At this point, it's a used car that I know about.

 

[blybrook PE]

Sounds more like an oil pump. You mighta scored the pistons some; but as it still runs, a rebuild or short block will be needed in the near future.

Not as bad as a timing belt; coulda been worse. Let us know what the mechanic says.