Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
The HP+ ones are the ones with the most squeaking complaints. I think most of the problems stem from the DIYers not doing it properly though.
The Automotive Thread
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Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
But I don't want them to sound like they need to be replaced from the very beginning.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
Installed a bunch new rear suspension parts over the holiday weekend. Unfortunately something isn't seated properly or something is loose because it has developed some bad clunky noises at low speeds. Really makes me hesitant to really test out what the car can do knowing something isn't sitting right. A couple noises seemed to arise after getting the necessary alignment done. I used a cheater bar to make sure everything was tight, maybe it's just the fact that its the result of a really stiff suspension on a car with 50k+ miles.
I really hate that I don't have a lift...
I really hate that I don't have a lift...
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Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
Sway bars & endlinks - front and rear
Trailing arms (spherical bearings on one end, urethane bushings on the other
Rear toe links (spherical bearings instead of bushings)
Springs
rear upper control arm bushings (urethane)
solid aluminum subframe bushings
When I installed it, everything was tightened on jackstands (hanging suspension), but I had the shop "time" the bushings before doing the alignment (unbind all of the bushings).
Trailing arms (spherical bearings on one end, urethane bushings on the other
Rear toe links (spherical bearings instead of bushings)
Springs
rear upper control arm bushings (urethane)
solid aluminum subframe bushings
When I installed it, everything was tightened on jackstands (hanging suspension), but I had the shop "time" the bushings before doing the alignment (unbind all of the bushings).
Jack the car up, let the suspension droop, then grab the wheel and push in and out. See if there is any movement or clunking noise (this should rule out the toe links). Also check that the swaybar isn't hitting the floor board, etc. when when the suspension is compressed. From there, I would just start going throught the bolts one-by-one. Especially when you've got heims, all it takes is one remotely loose nut to get a hard clunking noise.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
At first I thought it was the end links because the bolt holes are just a gnat's ass bigger than the bolts and the clunk was the bar shifting, but I installed a metal spacer to fill the gap (a very short piece of copper pipe that fits around the bolt and inside the hole).
I'll be heading over to the shop that did the alignment in a couple hours to drive around with them to see if they can help diagnose.
I'll be heading over to the shop that did the alignment in a couple hours to drive around with them to see if they can help diagnose.
Any update on the noise?
Question - 4 door, RWD, manual transmission, $20kish or less used.
Do I have any real options other than the Pontiac G8? M3/M5 options are going to be incredibly cost-prohibitive to maintain for a DD.
Question - 4 door, RWD, manual transmission, $20kish or less used.
Do I have any real options other than the Pontiac G8? M3/M5 options are going to be incredibly cost-prohibitive to maintain for a DD.
Cadillac CTS-V?
i was going to suggest a Chrysler 300 SRT8 but i don't think they're available with a MT. could be a fun option though if you can sacrifice your MT requirement.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
At the shop we discovered it was the trailing arm. Thing was moving up to 1/8" when we were shaking the car, so we thought it was the metal ferrule being the wrong size. Contacted the manufacturer and they sent a replacement at no cost. After taking out the original and comparing it to the new one, they were identical. Turned out to be one of the bolts was the wrong size. 3 of the bolts appeared to be the same, so when I reassembled everything I just grabbed one and kept going. Two of them were identical, but the 3rd was a gnat's ass bigger and was for this particular spot. I honestly wouldn't have noticed unless I had checked the stamp on the bolt head. The one on the driver's side was correct, so I just matched the passenger layout to it and once I swapped them around, no problem.
On the car front, pretty much any 3-series BMW (doesn't have to be an M3, although you can find some good used M3's for that range that are about 10 years old). The only Pontiac G8's that were manual transmissions were the GXP versions and I doubt you will find any worth a damn for under $30k. The base G8 and the GT were only available as an auto (available paddle shifters though).
Other options:
Caddy CTS (or maybe an older CTS-V)
Infinity G37 (awesome car)
Mercedes C300
Lexus IS250 or IS350
The CTS is essentially a 4-door Camaro. The Infinity and Lexus options are great cars and are relatively easy to maintain. Mercedes will be expensive as hell like the BMW's (or any other German car), but if maintained will run forever too.
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knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
lusone: Love my G35. Best car I have ever owned. I plan to get a newer version or even the G37 for my next car. Wife has the FX-35 crossover and loves that as well. Great vehicles IMO.
MetsFan
Well-known member
If you're going for a 3, don't get a 335. It's an awesome car, just painful to own out of warranty. The 328 has been great for me though. I've had my 2007 for five years now and haven't had any major issues besides water pump/t-stat in 65K miles.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
It's been my experience that German cars are about 50% more expensive to maintain than other similarly equipped vehicles. Oil changes, brakes, routine maintenance is all more expensive.
Other options:
Caddy CTS (or maybe an older CTS-V) - The ones I can afford (first gen LS motors) have all been beaten to death.
Infinity G37 (awesome car) - Haven't looked yet, will investigate.
Mercedes C300 - High maintenance, very few manual trans versions out there, was NOT impressed with the interiors on these.
Lexus IS250 or IS350 - Haven't looked into these, but have always not view Lexus options as performance cars. Not too big on the looks of the older models, new ones are OK-ish.
MetsFan: Surprised to hear such a discrepancy between the 33X series and the 32X series. I wonder why?
Caddy CTS (or maybe an older CTS-V) - The ones I can afford (first gen LS motors) have all been beaten to death.
Infinity G37 (awesome car) - Haven't looked yet, will investigate.
Mercedes C300 - High maintenance, very few manual trans versions out there, was NOT impressed with the interiors on these.
Lexus IS250 or IS350 - Haven't looked into these, but have always not view Lexus options as performance cars. Not too big on the looks of the older models, new ones are OK-ish.
MetsFan: Surprised to hear such a discrepancy between the 33X series and the 32X series. I wonder why?
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
Out of those options, you're best two would be the Infinity or the Lexus. Both also have AWD options that don't compromise performance.
MetsFan
Well-known member
Yeah, definitely more than a Japanese car, but she still puts a smile on my face on the twisties
A lot of it was because of the high pressure fuel pump, which they ended up having to extend the warranty for. The twin turbo/dual-scroll turbo probably doesn't help either.
The G37 is a great car. My friend has one and has been really happy with it after 3 years of ownership. The IS350 is a beast numbers-wise, but I haven't had the pleasure of driving one.
