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It’s more of a free rev and will eventually shift?

I haven’t checked fluid but will today on my smoke break at home
Likely needs a rebuild.  Friction materials worn, little extra line pressure from the RPM increase is just enough to engage.  Lots of ways for a 4L60e to fail!

 
KBB value (without the tranny issue) is from $648 to $958!

At this point if I can give it away and stop paying insurance on it I will be ahead in 6 months... & since school is shitcanned for a while it doesnt make any sense to keep it..

Was going to put it on cragislist for $500 and try and get rid of it?  With older kids college done and he will be at home until May they will just have to go back to car sharing

 
Why not just run it until it’s dead?  Anything on the road will need insurance.  The kid needs his own car to get around.  

 
probably will for the meantime, but they closed his school, and his job was at the county rec center which is closed so he wont have anywhere to go... if we are all still alive and working in summer he can get something and I can help him as best I can, but I cant sink much more $ into this thing..

 
You'll easily get $500 for it.  Someone will swap a junkyard trans into it for dirt cheap.

 
Can you do a tranny swap
With just jack stand? Maybe he needs a project to work on until school starts up or the world ends- I just can’t see putting more than a few hundred into this Tahoe

 
You'll need a few jack stands and the transmission adapter for a floor jack to do it safely /quickly. I've done it with a regular floor jack and some 4x4's in the past, but the adapter makes it easier when working in the yard.

 
I've never swapped a transmission with anything but a floor jack and jack stands.  They're not light, so it helps to have a partner until the bellhousing bolts are in.

 
With as many old Tahoe’s on the road I would have though finding one in a junkyard would have been doable but a weeks worth of calling around hasn’t generated any-

It’s will only go in reverse now - I guess at 1/4 million miles it’s time to let go- just can’t see putting money into it and since it’s signed up on my 17 year olds insurance it’s costing a shiny nickel to sit in driveway...

I was gonna try craigslist but is there another way to just get rid of it without having to endure that process? I thought about calling the junkyards back to see if they would buy it? V8 engine is still strong. Everything else is pretty much falling apart...

 
Junkyards will probably offer you a couple hundred bucks at least.  I did craigslist with my Bronco and sold it in a couple days, cold, hard cash.  I also donated a motorcycle I didn't want to deal with and they came and picked it up.  If you itemize your taxes you can get some value out of that.

 
When I was in college my parents donated our ’86 Toyota van to the local fire station for jaws of life training. There’s a picture somewhere of it with the roof fully severed. And as weird as it sounds, you can also sometimes donate cars to your local NPR station.

 
Ill call a few more junkyards after the holiday weekend,  at this point the blue book if the car was running is only like $600 bucks?  i woudlnt be getting rid of it if it worked  but i think all that might be useful is the engine.

Someone told me they used one of those donate your car to charity services and it was kind of a pain  / scam - i guess they auction your car off and say it goes for $50 bucks then thats your deduction, lol

 
well its snowy and cold this week so looks like I am going to push this to warmer weather...

 
so 2 weeks ago I changed the oil in the jeep, and I know I spilled some near the belt,  and ever since I would get a low pitch "squeal" (not like a pig though) and I figured it would burn off, but it is still there, sounds like its coming from near the belt / alternator - I haven't been driving a bunch, but I have been enough that I would have though it would be gone by now?

I put on a new alternator a few months back and thats the closest area to where the squeal comes from.

& in typical fashion if I try and  video the squeal then it doesn't squeal...

 
Remove belt.  Spin all pulleys and listen / feel for any chatter or not smooth operation.  Replace as needed.  Clean all pulleys with your favorite degreasing agent.  Install new belt.

 
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gotcha- I am glad the belt replacement isnt like the old days where you had to use a prybar - ( will also wait till better weather for this)

thanks!

 
Just get the cheap tool or use a big socket/extension to pull on the tensioner.  Quick check is to turn on all the accessories so there's a bunch of alternator load, and have the kid rev in neutral to make it squeal.  If you spray some belt dressing on there and it stops, it's the belt/pulley.  In my experiences, when an alternator bearing fails, it's a pretty continuous screech/chirp/squeal, and the alternator shits out shortly thereafter.

 
I wonder if the advance auto parts alternator I bought was crap? Would it read low if I put it on one of those battery / alternator testers?

It was still cold out so I didn’t mess with it this weekend //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png

 
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