blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
Nah; that's where I USED to live! They ain't caught up with me yet for that one...
The dump truck tore up them yards pretty good too...
The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
- Start date
Help Support Professional Engineer & PE Exam Forum:
The dump truck tore up them yards pretty good too...
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
I had that problem before and it ended being a poorly adjusted shift linkage. Usually had to put it in second to get it into first at a full stop.
Road Guy
Well-known member
its 99 (Jeep) I will give the tree thing a shot... when moving it shifts through all gears fairly flawlessly, its just the 1st and sometime 2nd gears you have to "work" to get it in gear if your stopped...
thanks!
thanks!
I replaced my clutch not long ago. I could tell it was going because there would be a slight delay in acceleration while at speed. I'd be in gear, hit the gas, the engine would rev but there was a short but noticeable (to me) delay before the power seemed to be making it's way to the wheels.
I noticed on occasions it being difficult to shift into a gear (usually first or reverse) on both my car and my wife's car (both manuals). It doesn't happen all the time but when it does I usually just disengage and reengage the clutch and it goes right into gear. I've never really thought of it as a "problem", just a quirk. It doesn't happen that often though. Let me know if you actually find a problem.
I noticed on occasions it being difficult to shift into a gear (usually first or reverse) on both my car and my wife's car (both manuals). It doesn't happen all the time but when it does I usually just disengage and reengage the clutch and it goes right into gear. I've never really thought of it as a "problem", just a quirk. It doesn't happen that often though. Let me know if you actually find a problem.
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
My bug oiled the clutch once. Nothing like having a slow car that you have to baby a LOT to avoid clutch slip.
Flyer_PE
Jr. PE / Sr. Company Pilot
I've had that issue with every manual I have ever owned. If it won't go into first at at dead stop, drop it in second and it usually will then go into first with no problems. The other thing you can do is let the clutch out in neutral and then try again.
I'll have to try putting it into second then back into first next time it happens. It's never really been a big issue, just an annoyance from time to time.
Flyer_PE
Jr. PE / Sr. Company Pilot
^It's a trick I picked up in high school while driving a '52 GMC pickup a friend had. 1st gear wasn't synchronized at all. Letting the clutch out slowly while holding a little pressure on the shifter will also move things enough to let it go into gear. That's about the only way I ever got my uncle's cattle truck to go in to granny low gear.
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
^^ I agree with Flyer. The problem you are seeing Roadwreck is that your first and reverse gears are non-syncro'd. Older manuals were like that, those after late 90's have usually had syncros on first. Reverse is still typically an unsyncro'd gear to aid in the prevention of sliding it into reverse and dropping your transmission on the spot. Not saying that it doesn't happen, but they tried to make it very hard to do.
Sometimes you have to double clutch to get it into first gear; but if your gearing is as low as it is in my truck for that gear, you don't use it anyway unless you are pulling something really heavy (granny gear). I always start out in 2nd.
Sometimes you have to double clutch to get it into first gear; but if your gearing is as low as it is in my truck for that gear, you don't use it anyway unless you are pulling something really heavy (granny gear). I always start out in 2nd.
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
This picture was forwarded to me earlier, it looks like RG's clutch is working fine to me:
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
Very nice supe!! Post pics once installed.
Going to be a PITA. If I were to mount it where the stock wing was, there would be too much leverage at that point and it will want to rip out the sheet metal. The COT mounts also complicate things as they're located inboard somewhat. So, I will probably end up making one forward strut/mount with clevis ends to support the front of the mount (they will come in at an angle), and then make a second strut that attaches straight down from the COT mount, and make it fasten to the area behind the hatch glass. This will give it the vertical support that it needs, some lateral support from the angular front mounts, and allow me to adjust the wing angle using the rear struts alone. If I use a quick release pin or lynch pin, I will able to remove it quickly to open the rear hatch as well.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
So I just put 4 new Goodyear tires on my Infiniti G35 and the front passenger-side tire kept losing air pressure. I filled it a couple times but the problem persisted. I took it back to the place that put the tires on for them to check it out. Seems that particular rim has a low spot in it (from a pothole or something). I wonder if I can find something used or re-certified instead of having to buy a brand new rim. Which I'm guessing is ridiculously expensive.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
craigslist is your friend.
You can also contact a local Wheel retailer, they typically have "take off's" from other cars who upgraded available for relatively cheap. I can replace my Camaro rims with basically brand new ones this way for ~$100/rim (which is really cheap for 20" rims).
You can also contact a local Wheel retailer, they typically have "take off's" from other cars who upgraded available for relatively cheap. I can replace my Camaro rims with basically brand new ones this way for ~$100/rim (which is really cheap for 20" rims).
Second Craigslist/eBay. Also, there may be someone in the area who can straighten it. AWRS is one company that comes to mine. I've got some Enkei race wheels that I may try to have straightened myself so I can resell them.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
Ya I tried Craigslist but no hits on anything for my make and model. I'll take a look around at other local wheel retailers. I did find this website that has OEM recycled/aftermarket car parts. They listed my wheels for $189 each. Just not sure what condition they are in.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
Thanks. AWRS did come up on a search but I'll have to get in touch with a local rep since they don't mention any pricing. The wheel in question might only need to be straightened.
Had the same thing happen on my aluminum rims for the car. Turns out that you are supposed to use a bead locker compound (more or less rubber cement) on aluminum rims but there are alot of tire shops that do not use it because it can be messy and difficult to remove the tire in the future. I thought this was bull at first but it has solved the problem...
my two cents but I would try this before buying a new rim...
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
Be careful with straightening Aluminum rims. Once bent they will forever be "soft", and you might not be able to fix them at all. I had that same issue several years ago with the rims on my '98 Eclipse.
