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^^^ I've had the ecsta's before. Nice tires, but horrible in the snow. I lost traction going around a 55mph curve while going 30 and flipped my car in only 1" of snow.

 
a 20' TV? That's larger than the car!

I see what looks like a 17" flat screen in the dash, but that's still gonna be major distraction.

Overall, looks like a perfect bombing target for the military. Red Flag anyone?

 
its my experience that most subaru owners are assholes... :D

We give them shit cause they like to drive their "AWD" POS to the dirt roads to drive there mountain bikes to places that we like to drive our 4WD vehicles on.. usually there is a dirt road off the paved road where the Subaru owners like to park, off the dirt road there are "off road" trails where we like to play, the subaru's wouldnt make it very far... and they (mountain bikes) are generally in the way while were trying to wheel...

 
May be headed to Mooresville this afternoon. Starting to get into aero packages for the RX7, and may be purchasing a take-off Nascar COT rear wing. 57 1/2" of carbon fiber goodness, at 1/8 the price of new, now that they're no longer used.

 
Very nice. Those wings had really good side-stability in addition to the downforce.

 
Only time I'll approach that speed is at the track trials at Roebling Road. For hill climbs, I'm going to need a pretty heavy angle of attack to try to get any use out of it at the 60-110 mph range. The main purpose will be to try to offset the downforce from the splitter thats going on up front, which is going to make the car oversteer like a mother otherwise. I will have to fabricate new mounts for it as well, going to have to be muuuuuch taller than stock to get clean air, i.e. nearly at the roofline.

 
I don't think it would need to be that tall considering the aero-dynamic profile of the car. I wouldn't think the cab would create that much "dirty" air.

 
how do I tell if its the clutch or the transmission?

if I am doing a rolling stop, I can get it in 1st gear easy.. if I am at a stop there is a little effort needed to push it in 1st gear.. other gears all work fine...

???

 
RG, here's an ol' farm trick:

Find yourself a sturdy tree that has a good hard pack around it (nothing your tires will spin on) and slowly put your front bumper tightly against it. Shift into first gear and let the vehicle return to idle. Now, ease out the clutch without touching the go pedal. If it stalls, your clutch is good & working correctly. If it sits there and idles while NOT spinning the tires, you've got a clutch that's about shot. If you are spinning the tires, find another tree!

I've used telephone poles when I couldn't get close enough to the trees. Cement bollards or pole protectors in some parking lots will also work in a pinch.

EDIT - If you are having problems with one gear in particular, you may have a syncro going out with that gear. Some trans shops will do a free inspect and let you know.

 
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If it's a newer clutch (post early '80's) on a passenger vehicle, there is no adjustment as it's all hydraulic. You either got one or you don't (there is no in between). IIRC, the larger rigs still have a tendancy to continue use of the tried and true methods of the mechanical linkage; which you can adjust; but some are moving to the hydraulic system.

Which reminds me & to prevent editing the above post again, check your clutch master fluid level. Should be DOT3 brake fluid (but check the cylinder cap to be certain). Typically low fluid levels will affect all gear changes though, not just those at a slow speed.

 
I've used telephone poles when I couldn't get close enough to the trees.
So I'm guessing this is near where Blybrook lives then:

PolesDown.jpg


 
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