The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
- Start date
Help Support Professional Engineer & PE Exam Forum:
lol, I hate it when that happens but it sure beats actually having another problem to resolve.
Road Guy
Well-known member
Something that isnt a problem but is bugging me..
When i search my VIN # it says I have a15 gallon tank.. The Jeep comes in either a 15 gallon or a 19 gallon..
When I drainaged the gas tank I filed up about half a 5 gallon tank, well call it 3 gallons, spilled some due to clumsiness.. So I put around 2 gallons back in the fuel tank after I hooked up the gas tank..
When I went to the gas station I put exactly 15 gallons in the tank when the pump cut off on me..
So either the 15 gallon tank has some extra capacity, or it actually holds 17-18 gallons?? Or I actually have a 19 gallon tank.. and the only reason that bothers me is that I bought the fuel pump assembly for a 15 gallon tank
.. The bottom of the fuel pump hits the bottom of the gas tank (cause you have to push it down when you install it)
When i search my VIN # it says I have a15 gallon tank.. The Jeep comes in either a 15 gallon or a 19 gallon..
When I drainaged the gas tank I filed up about half a 5 gallon tank, well call it 3 gallons, spilled some due to clumsiness.. So I put around 2 gallons back in the fuel tank after I hooked up the gas tank..
When I went to the gas station I put exactly 15 gallons in the tank when the pump cut off on me..
So either the 15 gallon tank has some extra capacity, or it actually holds 17-18 gallons?? Or I actually have a 19 gallon tank.. and the only reason that bothers me is that I bought the fuel pump assembly for a 15 gallon tank
.. The bottom of the fuel pump hits the bottom of the gas tank (cause you have to push it down when you install it)
Flyer_PE
Jr. PE / Sr. Company Pilot
I think the tanks used to be reported a little smaller than their actual sizes. I know for aircraft, the tank capacity is called out as X gallons of useable fuel. Each tank on my plane will actually hold one more gallon than the useable figure. I've never run one dry so I'm not sure if I can actually get that last gallon to the engine or not.
So it turns out my roll bar now needs to be a full on roll cage. So, now I get to order the rest of the materials, yank the dash, yank the wiring, yank the carpeting and seats out, etc etc etc. It's only money I guess. My big worry is getting it all done in time to make the September race.
Rockettt
I..am..McLOVIN
what kind of racing is this.... autocross?
SCCA TT/Level 4 Hillclimbs. May do some auto-x up at Z-max every so often. An e-mail from about 1/2 hour ago told me that if I keep my lights, wipers, dash, and DOT tires, I can run a "Street Unlimited" class. Now I can wait to put the cage in until winter, and only need to install the bar to make the September race.
FINALLY got my clutch working again. What a nightmare. Spent 3 days trying to get the new hydraulic throwout bearing and lines bled, couldn't do it. Big air pocket that despite vacuum bleeding, pedal bleeding, and doing a rain dance, wouldn't work its way out. Ended up pulling the trans AGAIN, taking the bearing out, lifting it above the master, bleeding it out of the car, and then working its way back in via the clutch fork hole. It IS nice and light, and buttery smooth, though.
Road Guy
Well-known member
I have never attempted a clutch, my jeep has 145k miles on it so I know it's in my future..
On another note, I scored a brand new hitch for my jeep of craigslist for $45 bucks..mainly just need it for my hitch hauler when we take it on a upcoming fall camping trip (little room for gear)
Anyways, I start to install the thing and the weld nuts inside the frame are so far stripped there is not going to be a way to use them. The 2 main attachment points are situated so you can't access them and have to rely on the weld nuts to secure the bumper and the hitch to the frame..
I have never used a tap and die set but I have one, I don't have anything to loose since there just isn't any thread left.. The size was supposed to be a 12mm.. Any words of advice before I give this a world? I wonder if there is enough of the weld nut left to even chase a new thread in there?
This Is another time when a welder would come in handy...
If the tap doesn't work I can remove the factory bumper and get a better bumper that includes a hitch.. The 4 bolts to the frame for the bumper appear fine its the ones under the frame that are gone..
.?.
On another note, I scored a brand new hitch for my jeep of craigslist for $45 bucks..mainly just need it for my hitch hauler when we take it on a upcoming fall camping trip (little room for gear)
Anyways, I start to install the thing and the weld nuts inside the frame are so far stripped there is not going to be a way to use them. The 2 main attachment points are situated so you can't access them and have to rely on the weld nuts to secure the bumper and the hitch to the frame..
I have never used a tap and die set but I have one, I don't have anything to loose since there just isn't any thread left.. The size was supposed to be a 12mm.. Any words of advice before I give this a world? I wonder if there is enough of the weld nut left to even chase a new thread in there?
This Is another time when a welder would come in handy...
If the tap doesn't work I can remove the factory bumper and get a better bumper that includes a hitch.. The 4 bolts to the frame for the bumper appear fine its the ones under the frame that are gone..
.?.
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
My Dad had a firm rule that if you couldn't fit it in the truck, it didn't go.
But seriously, no advice other than pray and wave incense over it or something.
pics?
Do you have room to just grind off the weld nuts and drill holes for thru bolts? Tapping these nuts would require a Blind hole tape, to bottom out the threads if there wasn't already a hole or recess past the inside of the nut to allow full thread taps. Tapping is easy if you follow the charts... what size drill vs. what size tap. Go a 1/4 turn then back an 1/8, repeat... then at around every 3 rotations, back it out to remove chips and start over. Also make sure to keep the tap lubricated.
Do you have room to just grind off the weld nuts and drill holes for thru bolts? Tapping these nuts would require a Blind hole tape, to bottom out the threads if there wasn't already a hole or recess past the inside of the nut to allow full thread taps. Tapping is easy if you follow the charts... what size drill vs. what size tap. Go a 1/4 turn then back an 1/8, repeat... then at around every 3 rotations, back it out to remove chips and start over. Also make sure to keep the tap lubricated.
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
A tap & die to the next larger size would be appropriate in this situation IF there's enough metal left on the nut to accept it (don't utilize the original size as it will just strip out again in a hurry). However, weld nuts are not known to have much "meat" in them for accepting a larger tap (nor are riv-nuts). PBR nailed the tap & die proceedure to a T.
A helicoil would work IF there's enough meat to accept it, which I highly doubt with a frame connection. Typically, the frame is punched, then threaded. So you usually only have the thickness of the frame to act as the "meat" for the thread engagement. Typically helicoils do best in engine blocks and other areas where there's plenty of meat to accept them and you cannot go to a larger bolt size in the connecting piece.
You may be better off drilling out the old nut and using a carriage bolt through a rectangular piece of 1/4" bar stock (as seen in the following link as part number 6). This will require drilling a hole in the frame to chase the new bolt assembly in (typically 1" hole saw). It may also require the redrilling of the hitch and/or bumper to accept the new bolt diameter, IF you go to a larger bolt. You should be able to remove the old nut and still be close to the original bolt size. The link is for a curt hitch installation on some other chrysler vehicle, but shows the rectangular bar stock and the carriage bolt configuration better than I can describe in words.
I would refrain from welding the hitch to the frame. Just my 2 cents worth.
A helicoil would work IF there's enough meat to accept it, which I highly doubt with a frame connection. Typically, the frame is punched, then threaded. So you usually only have the thickness of the frame to act as the "meat" for the thread engagement. Typically helicoils do best in engine blocks and other areas where there's plenty of meat to accept them and you cannot go to a larger bolt size in the connecting piece.
You may be better off drilling out the old nut and using a carriage bolt through a rectangular piece of 1/4" bar stock (as seen in the following link as part number 6). This will require drilling a hole in the frame to chase the new bolt assembly in (typically 1" hole saw). It may also require the redrilling of the hitch and/or bumper to accept the new bolt diameter, IF you go to a larger bolt. You should be able to remove the old nut and still be close to the original bolt size. The link is for a curt hitch installation on some other chrysler vehicle, but shows the rectangular bar stock and the carriage bolt configuration better than I can describe in words.
I would refrain from welding the hitch to the frame. Just my 2 cents worth.
Road Guy
Well-known member
I'll grabs pic but there is no way to access the inside of the frame to drop a bolt in, and the body of the jeep is in the way so I cant drill all the way through without some "hassle"
I think I am just gonna put this hitch for sale on Craigslist and just spend a little more money and get a new bumper for the jeep that already has the hitch mounted/attached to it. I think I can get one for around $200.00 and it would look better..
I took the bolts off the factory bumper and there are no issues there. You can tell there used to be a hitch there and I think someone just ratched the hell out of it while they were installing or removing..
I think I am just gonna put this hitch for sale on Craigslist and just spend a little more money and get a new bumper for the jeep that already has the hitch mounted/attached to it. I think I can get one for around $200.00 and it would look better..
I took the bolts off the factory bumper and there are no issues there. You can tell there used to be a hitch there and I think someone just ratched the hell out of it while they were installing or removing..
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
RG,
I've not yet crawled under a newer jeep to see how the body and the frame interact. Most of the 4x rigs that I've crawled under have enough room showing on the frame for one to get a hole drilled into the side of it and fish a bolt through. It wouldn't surprise me if the newer jeeps have removed this option due to cost saving endevours of the beloved manufacturer.
If you can find a bumper that will mount up without having any issues that already has an integral hitch, that's great. Be sure to check it out well enough to ensure it's more than a class 2 hitch system. I wouldn't recommend anything less than a class 3 for a 4x rig. Those usually mount to the frame with 4-6 bolts.
I've not yet crawled under a newer jeep to see how the body and the frame interact. Most of the 4x rigs that I've crawled under have enough room showing on the frame for one to get a hole drilled into the side of it and fish a bolt through. It wouldn't surprise me if the newer jeeps have removed this option due to cost saving endevours of the beloved manufacturer.
If you can find a bumper that will mount up without having any issues that already has an integral hitch, that's great. Be sure to check it out well enough to ensure it's more than a class 2 hitch system. I wouldn't recommend anything less than a class 3 for a 4x rig. Those usually mount to the frame with 4-6 bolts.
Road Guy
Well-known member
I could do that I think, there is a hole about 12 inches back for the other mounting place for that purpose (2 bolts each side) I may give that a try..
I had to do that on my older Durango and it was a major pain in the ***, I had a fishing tool that came with the hitch for that vehicle..
But it still took a while to get it done....
I was trying to think an extra 200 bucks versus another day of wasted time and energy making this work..I think the new bumper is looking better and better..there is one on quadratec that is class IV hitch mounted to the bumper.. I wouldn't pull much of anything but a 4x8 trailer that gets used for pine straw and other odds and ends and for the hitch hauler mainly.. I wouldn't tow a boat or anything substantial with it... With my 94 jeep wrangler I would pull both jet ski's and even with the I6 it was a challenge going up hill..
I also dont have the right size tap set for bigger than 1/2 inch.. So that would probably be another $30-$40 bucks....
I had to do that on my older Durango and it was a major pain in the ***, I had a fishing tool that came with the hitch for that vehicle..
But it still took a while to get it done....
I was trying to think an extra 200 bucks versus another day of wasted time and energy making this work..I think the new bumper is looking better and better..there is one on quadratec that is class IV hitch mounted to the bumper.. I wouldn't pull much of anything but a 4x8 trailer that gets used for pine straw and other odds and ends and for the hitch hauler mainly.. I wouldn't tow a boat or anything substantial with it... With my 94 jeep wrangler I would pull both jet ski's and even with the I6 it was a challenge going up hill..
I also dont have the right size tap set for bigger than 1/2 inch.. So that would probably be another $30-$40 bucks....
You could get your $45 back on CL, or you could keep it and mount it in the front and put your hitch hauler up there instead. Heh? :th_rockon:
Anybody want to play "where's the short"?
Two problems:
1) The headlights and interior lights stay on permanently. They get brighter/dimmer with the on/off switch for the headlights, but never completely turn off unless the key is out of the ignition.
2) Left turn signal works correctly. Right turn signal flashes the right rear turn signal, both brake lights, left rear marker lamp, and one of the lights behind the ash tray...
Two problems:
1) The headlights and interior lights stay on permanently. They get brighter/dimmer with the on/off switch for the headlights, but never completely turn off unless the key is out of the ignition.
2) Left turn signal works correctly. Right turn signal flashes the right rear turn signal, both brake lights, left rear marker lamp, and one of the lights behind the ash tray...
