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The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
- Start date
Help Support Professional Engineer & PE Exam Forum:
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
I like the part about the great mileage.
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
I WANT one of these when I get my shop built:
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
^^^ yep. Pedders is having one too with 0% for 6 months. Unfortunately with the unknown changes to the paycheck I dont want to over extend myself on wishlist stuff...
Road Guy
Well-known member
hey I'm looking at putting in a new radiator for my durango.. looks like there fairly reasonable $135 bucks at Autozone.. I havent ever done one before, they seem pretty straightforward? Anyone ever done one? Is there generally a lot of complicated parts to remove or is it fairly straightforward? Id be up for spending a few hours rather than dealing with some wrench turner at an auto shop..
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
Anyone into VW Type 2 pickups?
/>http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3517535435.html
/>http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3517535435.html
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
Radiators themselves can be fairly easy to do and I've never seen one with extra electrical connections. Typically it is very straight forward: drain the system; remove the fan, fan shroud and all hoses. Unbolt radiator, pull towards engine and lift to remove; install new radiator in reverse order. After filling the system with the new fluid, burp it a couple times (each vehicle has a slightly different method) and then kick back with a beverage of choice and enjoy the handywork.
They can get tricky if you have your transmission cooler built into the radiator itself, which involves draining the transmission lines as well as the radiator and refilling that when reinstalling. Also keep an eye on how the AC system hoses are routed around in this area, you don't want to get one of them punctured (if you have AC); but they are usually hooked to a different radiator and not bolted to the main system, so they should be easy to avoid.
For the two that I've replaced neither had the built in transmission cooler, Ford truck and IH, burping consisted of leaving the radiator cap off, elevating the front of the vehicle about 8-10" and starting the engine. As it draws in additional fluid, keep filling the radiator until it's just below the lip, usually takes a minute or two. Then drive the vehicle around until it's at operating temperature and refill with the front end elevated. Keep an eye on the levels for about a week and then you should be good to go with keeping it in check using the puke canister elevatoin marks.
They can get tricky if you have your transmission cooler built into the radiator itself, which involves draining the transmission lines as well as the radiator and refilling that when reinstalling. Also keep an eye on how the AC system hoses are routed around in this area, you don't want to get one of them punctured (if you have AC); but they are usually hooked to a different radiator and not bolted to the main system, so they should be easy to avoid.
For the two that I've replaced neither had the built in transmission cooler, Ford truck and IH, burping consisted of leaving the radiator cap off, elevating the front of the vehicle about 8-10" and starting the engine. As it draws in additional fluid, keep filling the radiator until it's just below the lip, usually takes a minute or two. Then drive the vehicle around until it's at operating temperature and refill with the front end elevated. Keep an eye on the levels for about a week and then you should be good to go with keeping it in check using the puke canister elevatoin marks.
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
For MA
/>http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3504750332.html
/>http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3504750332.html
That's a nice looking car. I think it's priced for the right buyer but could be had for less. It'd make a nice GTO clone
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
^You see that Magnum 400 clone in the latest Hemmings Muscle Machines?
jeb6294
Well-known member
Anybody ever look into converting a car to run on propane or CNG?
When I get home one of the things I thought about looking into was getting a truck. It's be uber convenient and I could get rid of the ugly 4x8 trailer from the driveway...or at least put back in the woods by the shed for emergencies. My car has almost 110k miles on it and the only reason it isn't much higher than that is because it's been sitting for so long while I've been deployed which can't be good for it.
If I do get one I've already decided I'd like to get something older (late 80's early 90's) with minimal computer interference so if something breaks you don't have to have a degree in computer science to fix it. To help with the mileage issue I thought it might be interesting to look into building an engine specifically for CNG or propane to take advantage of their high octane rating. I already checked and, at the very least, the U-Haul right up the street will fill vehicles at $3.05/gal right now but that's only 5 or 10 cents cheaper than what gas is going for right now.
When I get home one of the things I thought about looking into was getting a truck. It's be uber convenient and I could get rid of the ugly 4x8 trailer from the driveway...or at least put back in the woods by the shed for emergencies. My car has almost 110k miles on it and the only reason it isn't much higher than that is because it's been sitting for so long while I've been deployed which can't be good for it.
If I do get one I've already decided I'd like to get something older (late 80's early 90's) with minimal computer interference so if something breaks you don't have to have a degree in computer science to fix it. To help with the mileage issue I thought it might be interesting to look into building an engine specifically for CNG or propane to take advantage of their high octane rating. I already checked and, at the very least, the U-Haul right up the street will fill vehicles at $3.05/gal right now but that's only 5 or 10 cents cheaper than what gas is going for right now.
Had to lay back the radiator in the RX7 this weekend to get adequate clearance for the big honkin' SPAL puller fan. What a PITA project that was. Had to pull out the sawzall and cut a bunch of crap out, cut off most of the brackets that previously held it upright, and then weld on new supports/mounting spuds to use the factory mounting holes, along with a tensioner bar at the bottom that squeezes the supports together to keep the radiator from slipping out the bottom.
But I did accomplish my goal - do the entire thing in-situ without removing or draining the radiator, only had to pull and replace the top hose with a longer one!
But I did accomplish my goal - do the entire thing in-situ without removing or draining the radiator, only had to pull and replace the top hose with a longer one!
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
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wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
I can understand not having a 1990 Accord detailed prior to listing it on Craigslist, but they didn't even attempt to straighten up a little bit. Coffee cups and other trash are in the the passenger footwell.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
^^^ I noticed that too, but then again they're only asking $1200...
