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If you can crinkle the filter a bit and use a chain wrench to grab onto the ridges that you made it will also coax the thing to turn, usually (from experience on my truck). when in doubt, soak the stuck filter with your favorite penetrating oil (WD 40, etc) to help soften a baked and crusty seal...

 
Rubber strap wrenches also do wonders on a stuck oil filter.

 
Anyone have any quadrajet experience. The bird is cranking, but no sparky firey, just the starter rev'ing up the flywheel. Sputters a little when I press the accelerator but cuts out when I stop. Can't get the damn thing to fire over. Seems like it's starving for fuel on a cold start. A youtube video says to check the vaccuum hoses, and they are loose and cracked etc. Probably worry about it tomorrow, you will not break me Ivan Drago. Time to check the fluid levels on another PBR. Sheesh this been a long day and a half.

 
Vehicles need three things to start/run: air, fuel and spark. With the carb; you'll have plenty of air, testing for fuel is next.

With a helper and the air cleaner off, disconnect the coil to prevent spark/backfire then have helper crank over the engine while you look down the carb body. If you see good jets of fuel entering the throat (you may need to hold open the choke plate); then its not a fuel problem and its time to check spark.

If you don't have a jet of fuel while cranking; you most likely have crap in the bowl that is blocking the needle valve. If this is the case, carefully open the carb while on the motor and clean the bowl, float, needle seat and needle valve. I say carefully as there's usually a couple small springs that can give you future grief. Crank engine over with the carb open to push any line crud out (wear safety goggles as the fuel will shoot out at high pressure!!!). Then reassemble the carb and look down the throat again while your helper cranks it over. If it looks good, reconnect coil and try to start again. If you don't feel comfortable doing disassembly while on the engine, pull carb and rebuild on bench.

If you have good fuel and air, that leaves spark. Could be a few different things; timing, bad coil, bad distributer, cracked rotor or faulty plugs/wires. First test timing with a timing light if you have one. Another good tool is a handheld spark tester; otherwise its leather gloves, pliers and a spare plug.

Starting with the coil, remove wire going to distributor and connect to plug; hold plug 1/4 inch or so from block and crank engine over; you should have a good blue spark as the coil fires. If not, swap coils and repeat test. Oh, do this without any extra light shining under the hood! Next move to distributor cap and inspect it and the rotor for pitting or burns. Sand with emery cloth or replace as necessary. Then repeat the spark test with each wire to test the wires out. Pull plugs as necessary to check gaps, burn deposits and overall condition.

If you cannot get a helper, a push button remote start switch on the starter solenoid is another good tool to keep on hand. These are usually cheap <$10 and last a long time if properly cared for.

Remember not to crank more than 30sec at a time to prevent starter burnout and excessive battery drain. Good luck. Its hard to explain the above sometimes. If you have questions, give a shout tomorrow.

 
^ Bly has this figured out. I would like to add one suggestion in addition to what he has said. A quick way to test your theory for not enough fuel is to help things along with a sprtay bottle of gas. I usually steal a cleaning bottle from under the sink in the kitchen, rinse it with gas, and fill it with gas. Using a screw driver to cross the leads on the solenoid to get the engine turning, I spray the gas directly into the carb. If the engine starts, fuel problem, If the engine doesn't start, follow the rest of Bly's instructions.

Oh, and be careful with the gas and arcing the leads on the soleniod. Sparks and gas make FIRE. It's best to keep that combination inside the engine. :)

 
pbr: two good online resources

transamcountry.com

thirdgen.org

 
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Thanks for the tips fellas, and all the details Bly! Don't know if I'll get to it tonight, I won't be home this evening until after 7pm, and then heading for Montana tomorrow AM. I'd question the spark scenario, as I just replaced the whole system; cap, rotor, plugs, wires on it less than 6 mo ago. It seems it's been running a little rich, left black smoke tracks across the garage floor the night I got I running, so there could be some fouling.

 
Yer welcome PBR. I've had to delve into the carburetors heavily since two of my rigs have them and I like to keep them running (one is my plow truck). The g/f wasn't all too happy about my rebuilding the one on the kitchen table a few winters back, but that's what happens when you don't have a garage to work in. I do a LOT of shade tree mechanics, so getting the details out of my head is the easy part, putting them into words easily understood is something else entirely.

Since you feel good about the spark situation, I'd still check the timing. If you were messing with the distributor, you may have bumped it slightly and caused the hold down bolt to come loose. As time goes on and miles are put on the rig,the entire assembly can rotate, ultimately causing the timing to get off; this will also lead to it running rich as it'll fire sooner than it should. Usually it will be on all cylinders instead of just one bank.

But if one bank is historically running richer than the other; I'd focus my energy on the carb; especially if you've got two fuel bowls, one of the needle valves is probably sticking. Most carb systems don't have the overpressure returns of today's computerized / fuel injected rigs; so it gets dumped down the intake.

Good luck on the diagonsis side of things, it can be a tedious project at times.

 
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I wonder if anyone has stuck the turbo Ecotec from the Soltice/Sky into a Cosworth Vega.

An Ecotec H-bod sounds pretty cool, too.

 
The 85' firebird lives! Turned out to be bad vacuum hoses. A couple of them had some pretty significant cracks/holes and most of them were pretty brittle. This brings the list to: New starter, battery, vacuum hoses, plugs, wires, rotor, cap & replaced the clamp around the power steering line. It was pretty cruddy, and spewing fluid all over the place. Cold start is still a little rough, but idles fine at around 750. Now to give it a "here I go again on my own" sound mod to the turn signals, and It'll be ready for a trade-in.

 
Well our home refi is complete, so now it's time to retire the bird (just after I got it running no less). Doing some shopping tonight on a used 2005 4Runner. It's a clean Limited trim option, power moon roof, racks, tow hitch, and has 111k on it. They're asking 16.5k so we'll see how much they value the power 80's trade-in. If not I might have to Craig's list it or something.

 
7/8 years old and 111k and they want $16.5k? wow.

My brother just got rid of an '03 4-wheel Suburban with ~130k and they gave him $3500. He went online on one of these "we buy your car" sites. The site had a detailed form to fill out and comes back with an assessed value. It says if you're truthful, that's what they'll pay you. He came up at $6500, so he figured he'd give it a shot. He goes to the dealer, with my SIL following so they can leave the Suburban behind, and the guy ran "his own version of the program" and came back at $3k. My brother told him to screw (he did not like the salesman's attitude).

So he does it again and comes up with the same value. Takes it to another local wholesale buyer. This guy gives him a similar song but came across as a sort of decent fellow. My brother just wanted the car gone so he took he the cash. You know that suburban is on a lot somewhere for $8500-$10000.

 
Used cars is where dealers make their money. They don't make much at all on new cars. (My dad sold cars for 20+ years). The big dealers pump out the new car sales and eke out a little profit just on volume, but they turn over the used cars for their real profits.

 
How much you get for your used car is directly associated with how much you want to deal with the PITA of selling yourself.

 
Selling a car via craigslist isn't that bad. Find your price, add a small % for negotiations, and stick to your guns.

I bought a 96 Bronco for $2k, did some small fixes to it, then listed it for $3500 knowing I only wanted $3k. After a couple of weeks, someone finally came by, liked what they saw and bought it for $3k. Had my own bill of sale drafted up, he signed it. Done deal.

 
I've bought and sold off Craigslist and its just how much of the game you want to play...

I've had a decent experience with car max also, but that was 7+ years ago...

I've had a few old cars I just wanted to go away...

 
Here it is lads, the new addition to the family. The 2005 4Runner, limited w/ most all options, 111k miles, for $15.2k this evening. Was probably still $500 too high based on the KBB for Private Party but this was through a Toyota dealer and I didn't feel like nickle pinching those poor bastards any more. It's a nice ride (till something breaks, science forbid...), would have probably wondered off soon if I didn't make a move. JSYK, I was told by the financing guy at the end that we just made some 13' cutoff date for the rates we got, in case anyone is out looking. We locked in a 60mo. for 2.75% w/ sub $250/mo payments but will be shooting our eye out to pay this pup off by xmas next year. .......HO... HO... HO!

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