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my only experience with Mazda was a 99 Millenia.  Nice car but the transmission started f%&*king up at ~120k.  Not sure about the CX-7 but the Millenia used a timing belt instead of a chain and regular maintenance was to replace it at ~100k (before it broke).  Basically the top of the motor had to be dismantled to access it. $1000-1200 job.

Looked up a CX-7.  they use a timing chain but.....https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-d935_ds640676

 
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Holy moly - there's knowing nothing about cars, and then there's the guy that put together the engine that's coming out of mine...

1. He thought it was a solid roller motor.  Never had a reason to doubt him, since the lash settings were all consistent with what I'd expect to see for a solid roller engine.  Well, it wasn't!  So there's been an .018" air gap where parts were being hammered away, when it's supposed to have 0 lash plus preload, since it's a hydraulic roller...

2. He used the cheapest parts possible.  The rockers are a notoriously bad offshore brand.  About 12 of the 16 were OK, the other 4 were so out of round on the trunnion, you couldn't even rotate them a full 360 degrees inside the bore.

3. Due to some combination of the above, a lifter disassembled itself.  The cheap lifters use a little spring clip to hold themselves together, so even if a pushrod breaks, they stay in one piece.  Not so here, and several of the lifter internals are missing.  Based on the fact that the distributor gear is chewed up, I can guess which hole they made their way down en route to the oil pan...

4. He never checked piston to valve clearance.  Ever.  I only pulled one head so far, but #2, 4, 6, and 8 intake valves have clearly been pounding away at the piston, so much so, that there are shards/slivers of aluminum sticking up in each piston.  I would not be surprised if the valves are tweaked accordingly.  #8 obviously had the exhaust valve also hit the piston.  But the dumbest part?  The valve reliefs are all chewed up in the same spot, meaning he bought pistons that had the reliefs sized for a 2.02" intake valve, but then put heads on it that had a 2.08" intake valve...

5. He never had the lifter bores honed, or never checked the lifter clearances.  Three were so tight in the bore, it took vice grips to wiggle them out.  Lifter body and bore were both badly worn for a motor that probably has a run time measured in single-digit hours...

I seriously hope this guy doesn't work in the Army's maintenance group, or there are going to be some tanks/Hummers that are disabled in the near future...

 
Umm, I don't think a crankshaft is supposed to be serviceable in pieces.

 
put the crank(s) on the lathe, ramp that bitch up, and friction weld together.  Trust me on this.  I'm an engineer.
Management material all the way.

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put the crank(s) on the lathe, ramp that bitch up, and friction weld together.  Trust me on this.  I'm an engineer.
Damn European engineers got me into this mess in the first place. 

Can you friction weld high carbon steel?

On the bright side, Mr. Tex says that it makes the rear main seal much easier to replace.

 
anyone have any experience with a Mazda CX-7? its got 90K miles but owner only wants $3000 for it? has a little hail damage on the hood, but basically a car for a kid to keep at college.
I'd better take it to service for inspect. I had mazda 6 2 turbo, which was nice looking and worked well. But then suspension failed, replacement of the turbo charger and several more surprises. Glad I don't have it anymore.

 
I still plan to sell my new POS jeep if I ever get it back from Chrysler... but picked this 01 TJ up for my daughter today... in line 6? Don't mind if I do... actually I may just keep this for myself and get her something else once the POS JK is back...

Not sure what happened to the hood... may have to pick up some plasti-dip...

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Its the same age as my daughter - I think that's a good rule for kids cars.. & the price was right on this one, $3500 - just hoping I can get it to pass emissions without too much of a beating..

previous owner cut the electric lines to where the O2 sensor "used to" plug in - I spent 2 hours trying to make that work and am just saying F it and taking it to my mechanic -

 
From the looks of the ends of the bumper and the fender flares, it just looks like it has been sitting out in the sun a lot.  I wouldn't even bother worrying about it, because I'm sure it's going to see it's share of "oops".  The chrome grill cover is :f_115m_e45d7af:  though.

 
Yeah that was my thought as well on the grill - defin like 1990.. may seriously plasti dip spray it black

I put some goof off on the hood with som elbow grease and some of the Home Depot paint started to come off -

Other than it sounding like an outboard motor with no o2 sensor - drove it to the shop last night and it rides pretty good - defin needs new shocks but felt good to be back in a less plastic jeep

Also check out the radio - totally upset I threw away my 3 shoe boxes of cassette tapes //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png

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That reminds me of a phone call from my mother about 20 years ago.  She called me from work, two of her coworkers beside her, for some tech support.  Computer wouldn't read a CD.  In fact, it wouldn't even TAKE the CD.  They were trying to cram a CD in the floppy drive.  

 
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