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It also has to do with the contact area of the tires. Sports cars tend to have much wider tires and don't "cut through" the snow or concentrate the weight well enough to maintain a good static coefficient of friction on ice. It's also why those FWD cars with the big 20" wheels tend to struggle.

The guys who have the best luck with RWD cars have narrower wheel/tire combos as well as snow/ice specific treads.

For the Camaro, the contact area of a standard rear wheel is about 27 sq.in., but by simply reducing it from a 9" wheel to an 8" wheel it changes the weight distribution from 30 psi to 34 psi (3300 lb curb weight divided by 4 wheels, divided by contact area - 3in by 9in vs 3x8). You'd need about 200lbs of sandbags to have the same effect.
not sure I agree with that.  Pressure might be a factor on ice where you're heavily relying on COF to get traction.  Aggressive tire tread pattern gets you through snow as it "bites" into the snow.  Performance tires are more about the stickiness of the rubber meeting the road.  FWIW, most of the heavy construction equipment use big tires to reduce the pressure under the tires so they don't sink into the top soil/mud but they have knobby treads which will grab the loose media (aka soil) and push them through.

 
from the redneck world of driving through the mud yall are way overthinking this, bigger tires always better, weight over axle, hold my beer, roll tide, etc...

 
not sure I agree with that.  Pressure might be a factor on ice where you're heavily relying on COF to get traction.  Aggressive tire tread pattern gets you through snow as it "bites" into the snow.  Performance tires are more about the stickiness of the rubber meeting the road.  FWIW, most of the heavy construction equipment use big tires to reduce the pressure under the tires so they don't sink into the top soil/mud but they have knobby treads which will grab the loose media (aka soil) and push them through.
When it comes to snow, you don't necessarily want to float on it like a piece of equipment in the mud. You want to sink down to the asphalt. Two ways to do that, reduced footprint of the tire (narrower width and smaller diameter), and more weight (add sandbags).  This is why those tiny FWD cars like Prius' work so well. Small wheels and the bulk of the weight over the drive axle. They sink to the asphalt Cars like a Camaro have plenty of weight, but they tend to float because their contact area is too big. These cars are also more likely to hydroplane in wet conditions for the same reason.  Sandbags are much more effective in Trucks because their rear axles don't have nearly as much weight.

That does change when there is ice under the snow, where the snow itself provides more grip. 

 
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Our roads are icy and/or snowy for 6 months straight here. No breaks. I drive a 4WD Toyota 4Runner, my wife drives a Subaru Forester, and my daughter drives an Outback. Both the Subarus are superior to  the 4Runner in these conditions - I use them whenever I am able.

 
Our roads are icy and/or snowy for 6 months straight here. No breaks. I drive a 4WD Toyota 4Runner, my wife drives a Subaru Forester, and my daughter drives an Outback. Both the Subarus are superior to  the 4Runner in these conditions - I use them whenever I am able.
This!

My Suby got us up to the mountain last weekend without even needing chains, when it was easily snowing 3"/hour at the time we were driving up. I don't need the AWD that much of the time any more besides instances such as this, but it was great to have when I was living in VT too, for the same reason. It handles so well in really tough conditions, and is made to last.

 
Argggggh.

Went to put coolant in the race car finally, which is quite a task due to the configuration of the system.  Finally get it full, and see some pinhole leaks in the radiator where some tabs were welded on.  WTF?  Spent the next four hours chasing cracks and weeping from pinholes I can't even see.  The casting of the end tanks is just so atrocious, I can't get a decent weld no matter what.  Then I put my hand underneath and feel that the core itself has a leak near the passenger side end tank! 

FTS.  Old radiator tossed in the trash (it looked like an ebay special that came with the car when I bought it 7 years ago, but I figured I could make it work).  Ordered a new "DIY" kit of roughly the same dimensions to weld up and make it right.  The bummer is that the dimensions will be different, so all the time I spent fabricating the mounting system will have to change, and I may have to change the ducting configuration also.  If I'm lucky, the lower supports will still work, and I can just build off them.  Plan this time around is to make clamshell brackets that squeeze the radiator to hold it, rather than welded tabs.  Should mitigate any fatigue issues, which was my worry with V1.0 anyways.

 
It's my retirement plan. 

You know, work on it enough that my arthritis accelerates to the point where I can go out on disability.

 
so we have been on the lookout for a slightly less piece of crap for RG JR #1 to take to college in August. wasn't in a hurry to do it this soon, but the lady I cohabitate with saw a nice jeep on the craigslist so we go check it out. its a 2004 jeep Rubicon, I6, Automatic, hard top, lift, etc - been really well taken care of - we pull up to the house to check it out and there is a pretty nice old school Harley and a 60's something chevy truck completely restored to the max, I take that as a good sign (gearheads)

take it for a spin, runs great. then I learn the guy selling it doesn't like "confrontation" so he is letting a buddy of his sell it for him - wonderful - learn the buddy is a car salesman.

These things, even with 150,000 + miles here still sell for decent money, they had it listed around $8800 - which I though was not bad but offered like $7500 just to get the negotiations started - we ended up agreeing to $8K, which still seemed a little high but the thing was in excellent shape (probably too nice for an 18 year old). it had probably $2 grand in new tires on it ( which I was thinking of putting on my jeep to be honest) - so I kept asking the guy for the VIN # and started to get a weird feeling, he said he would send me the carfax, I told him I didn't mind paying for it, says he will send, then it never comes, delays all day Sunday, delays all day Monday, never sent either vin # or carfax (I should have gotten when I drove it)

I was supposed to meet him today at lunch and just got a weird feeling Monday morning so I get one of those "text free" apps and text him to see if the jeep is available and the guy tells fake me (doesn't know its me) yeah I still have it available but now wants $9500 for it & sends me a link to a new craigslist ad where he added some stuff to the description.. fake me also says I want to come look at it tonight, very interested, fake me offers $9500 sight unseen if he will send fake me the vin # - then crickets, can't meet tonight, maybe tomorrow... long story short real me figured something was going weird so I just dropped communication with him Monday morning when he wouldn't give me the vin#. I am currently texting him from 3 different fake text free numbers just to seem overly interested and see what shakes out - currently asking if he will meet me about half an hour from the dudes house with cash & title... figure I can at the very least waste some of his time..

Also weird he keeps posting the ad on craigslist for like an hour and then removes, and them reposts it?  very strange..

Not sure if something is wrong with the title but I got really weirded out when he wouldn't give me the VIN# ? Claimed to have the title but never saw it.. defin strange... and what a total waste of my Sunday!

 
Dealt with the car salesman over the phone/text and met the owner at his house - I stalked him via the city GIS database and the name checked out. But still glad I walked...

Anyone else want to harass the car salesman via fake text number?

 
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