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Where was that picture taken? Is that the Sporty's at the Clermont County Airport in SW Ohio?

As long as we're straying away from cars...
I'm fast approaching rebuild time for a Lycoming IO-360A1B6D. I'm planning to do it early next year since the flying weather sucks between February and March. If nothing else, I'll finally be able to rid myself of that pesky oil leak that's been bugging me for the last two or three years. It only uses about 1 quart every 7 hours but it puts it all right down the nose-gear door. Looks like hell after a 3-hour flight.

Here's a pic from a couple of years ago.

Cardinal-No-Number.jpg
 
Where was that picture taken? Is that the Sporty's at the Clermont County Airport in SW Ohio?
Yep. I was in Cincinnati to witness some equipment testing a couple of years ago and Clermont County was the closest airport. I thought it was pretty cool to have a picture of the plane in front of the Sporty's building. I've bought a lot of stuff from them over the years.

 
Hmmm...no numbers, eh, Flyer? Wouldn't be in the phramaceutical delivery bidness, now, would ya?

;)

 
Here's a list of my projects:

My daily driver is a 2001 GMC Sonoma, bagged and lays frame on 20" Torq Thrusts.

I just purchased a 1981 Chevy C-10 Stepside. It has only one rust spot on the rear fender and some surface rust on the hood, otherwise a very solid truck. The motor is currently being built, 383 with vortec heads. Plans are to replace the whole interior, install a new wood bed floor and drive it for a while.

100_1387.jpg


 
Why go with the vortec heads instead of aftermarket aluminum heads?

 
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Hmmm...no numbers, eh, Flyer? Wouldn't be in the phramaceutical delivery bidness, now, would ya?

;)

The plane is number free by the magic of photoshop. It has the standard 18" lettering down both sides of the fuselage. I'm pretty easy to find but if I post the tail number, I might as well post my full name, address, and pilot certificate number to go along with it.

 
Why go with the vortec heads instead of aftermarket aluminum heads?

They were cheaper than aftermarket aluminum heads, but flow better than stock heads from what I have read and been told.
Edelbrock has some Al heads out there that are about the same price and fow a good bit better, IIRC. Plus, Vortec heads have weird angles that limit your intake selections.

But if you already have them, they are better than stock.

 
Edelbrock, like all major head suppliers, have room to improve. Additional machine work can be done to any off the shelf product.

 
ALL of these are great projects!!!! I WISH I could fly an airplane! That's one thing I plan on doing if I ever make any money in this business.

I think my NEXT project will be a Cobra kit car. I've done the full restoration, and while it was fun, it really was more work than I want to put into a project again.

I would like to build a kit car and just put modern drivetrain items in it.

Cobra.JPG

 
Be careful about kit cars. You may not have an issue, being in NC and all, but in Louisiana if you build a '32 Ford in 2010 it is a 2010 model car and must adhere to all emissions required in 2010.

 
Why go with the vortec heads instead of aftermarket aluminum heads?

They were cheaper than aftermarket aluminum heads, but flow better than stock heads from what I have read and been told.
Edelbrock has some Al heads out there that are about the same price and fow a good bit better, IIRC. Plus, Vortec heads have weird angles that limit your intake selections.

But if you already have them, they are better than stock.
I looked at aftermarket aluminum heads, but the ones I looked at were out of my price range. I paid right at $650 for the pair of vortec heads brand new. I originally planned to go back close to stock with the whole motor. I didn't really care about high horsepower just something that would be reliable and get better gas mileage than I was getting, but when the shop started pricing parts for me a 383 rotating assembly was $100 cheaper than a 350 assembly. It jsut snowballed from there.

 
Be careful about kit cars. You may not have an issue, being in NC and all, but in Louisiana if you build a '32 Ford in 2010 it is a 2010 model car and must adhere to all emissions required in 2010.
It's a '57 '58 '59 Chevrolet automobile (Johnny Cash would be proud)

 
With LT1 strokers (the ones I've seen anyway), the 396's seem to have oil leak issues (more frequently than normal), and the 409's require fill in the block.

My 383 has a Callies crank, SRP pistons, splayed billet mains, I forget which rods though (been a while). Cam is a CC230/236 on a 112, I've got a Yank SY3000 torque converter, and it drives very nicely - I'm happy with the combination. It's got a nice lope at idle, but it's not crazy enough to stall out with the a/c on or anything like that. The heavy cars (my Z is 3900+) like the torque of a stroker. :) The car 'feels' like a low 13 / high 12 second car now, though I've not had it at the track. It's not a race car (BTDT), so I'm not worried about it.

 
I've debated whether to go with heads/cam from AI or Lloyd Elliot on my itty tree-fitty, but after upgrading the transmission, rear end, and all other supporting necessities, a late model swap isn't much more.

 
One of the main reasons I stuck with the LT1 was because it was "plug and play". I didn't want to mess with an LSX swap and have to goof around with the fuel system, the speedo cluster and its gauges, wiring harness splicing, engine mounts / cradle, new headers, etc. I found my shortblock 'new but unused' by a local guy who was selling out. Had all the paperwork also.

I already did LSX anyway, my 98Z had a 382 solid roller motor... fun stuff, but that car became too $$$ hungry for me to feed, so I sold it.

 
I don't see why anyone would futz with a Gen I anymore when the LSx is so much more bang for the buck.

Then again, those crate sbcs are pretty attractively priced.

 
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