Home Improvement/Repair Questions

[knight1fox3]

^^^ No floating walls in the basement?

Negative Ghost Rider.

So no more leg lifts or pull ups?  I didn't think you of all people would build a basement that wasn't Tony Horton approved.

Just wait. Tony's going to want to come over and use this room for his next training regiment when I'm done with it.

KF, did you have that inspected?

If not, I won't tell.

Of course I did, even stamped the plans myself! :thumbs:

 

[knight1fox3]

Time for a change to the unfinished portion of the basement! @Road Guy, if you're willing to share, when all said and done with everything you recently did, how much did it end up costing?

Inquiring minds still want to know (whole dollar amount)?

 

[Road Guy]

For just under 1000 SF with full bathroom it was around $25k.including flooring

I paid a guy around $18k to stub electrical, frame and rock it and then I did everything else. That includes some plumbing but it was the cheapest I could find.

People wanted almost 10 Large to do the bathroom - prices around here are insane if you hire out

Only thing I haven’t done yet is the stairs from the main house into the basement - they are carpet but look like ****.

 

[Road Guy]

@knight1fox3 I found the estimate - I was shocked too! - but this was the lowest guy I had price it - and several folks wouldn't even come look at it if the "project" was under $50K..

I had to kind of pull a "Richard Move" -  after it was sheet rocked and mudded I told the guy I had some unforeseen expenses come up and would need to push the rest of the project until next year.  I think he had another (better job) lined up so he didn't whine too much but I could tell he was not happy - it was difficult to even get a breakdown like this from him or any others- they would just list a lump sum price and then want to paid every 2 weeks - I wasn't willing to deal with anyone that wanted a third payment up front either..

But I wasn't about to pay $6 grand for painting and molding / doors (I had a total of 3 doors)- I also saved over a grand doing the finish on the electrical myself & outlets and circuit breakers and such) I couldn't believe what people want, I think I had 10 can lights, 20 outlets, 5 switched and 6 circuit breakers and the electrician wanted like nearly $1500 to do that and said it would take under a day?  Also the plumbing cost was only rough in, they set the shower pan and the toilet / sink rough in and I did the rest, I think the total cost for them to do the bathroom was $5G's or more (& that wasn't a tile shower)

But this give kind of a breakdown of cost if your want something to compare by, and this was around 900 SF and no real rooms just one big open floor plan, framed out a bathroom, framed around my utility stuff but  I left everything else open..

Sheetrock ended up being around $6K and framing $4500 so he was actually good about his estimates being a little over, but we didn't do anything extra along the way.. I am glad its done and hope to never have to do another one.. (this is my 3rd basement finish)

 

[Road Guy]

Over the hellidays I made the kid a little corner desk for his PC, couldn't really find one that fit his room layout so I just made one out of 1/2 " cabinet grade plywood. but I used pipe fittings for the shelf brackets (these shown were about $40/ EA)

He had gotten a better monitor (not pictured) for Christmas that didn't fit on his old desk.

the carpet is hideous and will be replaced but its far down on the list!

 

[knight1fox3]

@knight1fox3 I found the estimate - I was shocked too! - but this was the lowest guy I had price it - and several folks wouldn't even come look at it if the "project" was under $50K..

I had to kind of pull a "Richard Move" -  after it was sheet rocked and mudded I told the guy I had some unforeseen expenses come up and would need to push the rest of the project until next year.  I think he had another (better job) lined up so he didn't whine too much but I could tell he was not happy - it was difficult to even get a breakdown like this from him or any others- they would just list a lump sum price and then want to paid every 2 weeks - I wasn't willing to deal with anyone that wanted a third payment up front either..

But I wasn't about to pay $6 grand for painting and molding / doors (I had a total of 3 doors)- I also saved over a grand doing the finish on the electrical myself & outlets and circuit breakers and such) I couldn't believe what people want, I think I had 10 can lights, 20 outlets, 5 switched and 6 circuit breakers and the electrician wanted like nearly $1500 to do that and said it would take under a day?  Also the plumbing cost was only rough in, they set the shower pan and the toilet / sink rough in and I did the rest, I think the total cost for them to do the bathroom was $5G's or more (& that wasn't a tile shower)

But this give kind of a breakdown of cost if your want something to compare by, and this was around 900 SF and no real rooms just one big open floor plan, framed out a bathroom, framed around my utility stuff but  I left everything else open..

Sheetrock ended up being around $6K and framing $4500 so he was actually good about his estimates being a little over, but we didn't do anything extra along the way.. I am glad its done and hope to never have to do another one.. (this is my 3rd basement finish)

View attachment 12472

Just finally getting back to this. Thanks for the comparison info, much appreciated. With the (2) rooms being added, for approximately 706 SF, the initial estimate was about $27K. After reviewing, I was able to cut that down to just above $20K (what we budgeted for). The contractor had originally specified solid core doors and high-end oak trim. I told him to give me the "Aldi's Brand" on some of that stuff and will do the flooring myself. I'm also doing all the speaker, HDMI, and network cabling such that it will all feed to a combination wall plate ready for a flat screen TV mount. Floor plan and quote details below for reference. Looking forward to having the extra space! :thumbs:

PROJECT: PARTIAL BASEMENT REMODEL

PLANNING
Design Services
Plans & Design Services: Suitable for permitting and Construction.
General Notes: No Charge

PERMITS
Building Permit: Builder to supply all permits for completion of plan

FLOOR PROTECTION
Lay down floor protection to and from work area.

FRAMING
Framing Labor
General Notes: Provide all framing materials and labor to complete plan as drawn at time of signing. Bottom plates to be pressure treated Lumber. All framing to be 2x4, 16" O.C. unless otherwise noted.

WALL FRAMING MATERIALS
Studs 2" x 4" x 8' #2 & Better Lumber Lumber 2"x4"x16'
Lumber 2"x4"x16' Pressure Treated
4'x8'x7/16" OSB (For insulation backer in raw areas) per plan

CEILING FRAMING MATERIALS
General Notes: Ceiling framing will be determined by existing and added mechanical systems. No custom ceiling design or framing is included.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
Electrical Labor and .Materials
General Notes: All labor, demo and permits are Included. Fixtures provided by customer will be decorative Sconces, Pendants, Ceiling fans, etc.). Fixtures provided by contractor to be all smoke alarms, can lights, trim kits and bulbs. A walk-through will be done with the homeowner prior to rough-in. All electrical will be installed to code.

FIXTURES INCLUDE:
(8) Standard Outlets on (3) circuits for the workout room
(7) Standard Outlets on (2) circuits for the office
(1) S1 Switch
(2) S3 Switch
(2) Ariandi S1 and S3 Dimmer
(2) Cat 6 Coax lines
(15) 5' Recessed Cans (Trim Kit, Light and 32K LED Included)
(2) 4' LED strip lights in the closet
(1) Demo Work (as possible with light gauge or cable)

HVAC SYSTEM
Lower Level Heating, Cooling and Ventilation
-Install 1-supply to the office off existing
-Install 1-supply to the workout room off existing
-Install 1-150 CFM exhaust fan with 1-6" power open spring close damper for the air change (For code required air exchange)
-Pull necessary permits

INSULATION & DRYWALL
Insulation
General Notes: LOWER LEVEL

Install R-13 Batt insulation in all new walls. (With OSB wall backer) Install R-13 Batt Insulation in all new living area ceilings

DRYWALL
Drywall Materials, Labor and Texture (Knockdown)  General Notes: Supply W' Drywall on walls Supply 5/8" Drywall on ceiling
Scrap out waste
Apply Square Corner Bead
Tape, 151 coat, 2nd coat and sand down/touch up Spray Sand Texture Spray
Spray 1 coat of "Dover White" or like light color in flat. Sprayed & back rolled. All Walls and Ceiling 1 color. (Colors choices include Dover White, Taffy White, White Dove, Antique Ivory or Extra White.)

PAINTING
Custom Painting
General Notes:   By owner

MILLWORK-INTERIOR TRIM
General Notes: Labor to install all finish materials included
All baseboard, casing, and doors are to be pre-finished in the existing homes wood species.

INTERIOR DOORS
(2) 3'-0" flush panel Right Hand

Interior Door and Case Trim Materials Base Molding Col. (F217) 3/8 x 3-1/4 x R/L Colonial Casing (F132/MC-39) 11/16 x 3-1/4"
Base Shoe molding (F200/M-101) 7/16"x3/4" (as needed)

STAINING
Stain 1 QT
General Notes: Provide filling of nail holes and touch up of raw cut millwork

FLOOR COVERING AND TILE
General Notes: Allowance for carpeting includes labor and materials. Allowance for tile and other hard surface floors include materials only. Labor for tile and hard surface has been figured in to the proposal price

CARPETING: 
Office Area per plan (Allowance $1,094.00)
Based on carpet and pad at $3.00 per Square foot including 5% for waste

Workout Room (Allowance for materials and Labor $2,820.00)
Based on Rappe 3/8" 20% Chip workout mats

CONSTRUCTION CLEAN UP
Dumpster
Provide dumpster on site for all waste from basement remodel.

Clean Up - Daily
Job to be left broom swept daily

Final Clean Up
Final clean-up will consist of light dusting and floor vacuuming.

GRAND TOTAL: $27,892.00

 

[Master slacker]

So my very unique garage door mechanism poo poo'd and the solution is probably easier than I'm making it out to be.  I don't know.  It's vintage 1930's and works with a vertical spring mounted on square tubing that attaches to the garage door with a roller at its pivot point (see picture and pardon the mess - Spring cleaning is coming).  The spring is held in place at the top and the bottom travels up / down with the tubing.  The tippy top of the door has a small rod attached to the frame of the garage.  As the door is opened / closed, the roller on the door travels up / down in a channel and the tubing (with spring) travels up / down constrained to a channel at the bottom.  The rollers are plum wore out, but it's such a simple setup that it keeps on working.  Anywho, the bad side had the tubing break at the bottom plate that is constrained to the channel.  I think it hit something when the door was closed one time and broke it.  I could probably fix it with a welder, but I don't have a welder.  Has anyone else seen this kind of setup before?  What is it called?



dog tax

 

[knight1fox3]

Has anyone else seen this kind of setup before?  What is it called?

Nope. But I feel compelled to find the mechanical engineer who designed this and strike them repeatedly with a tack hammer.

 

[P-E]

Nope. But I feel compelled to find the mechanical engineer who designed this and strike them repeatedly with a tack hammer.

That looks like it was designed by an electrical engineer.    

 

[kevo_55]

I've never seen that before.

How hard would it be to get a more conventional set up? What about one of those torsional spring set ups?

 

[MA_PE]

Looks like a one-piece door.  I’ve never seen that type of setup but it looks pretty simple.  If you can dismantle and separate the pieces that need to be welded, then just take them to a local shop and have the guy weld them for you.  Might charge you $20 and you’re back in action.

 

[Road Guy]

So this summer I am wanting to add an arbor to our back deck. The back deck is "yuge" and I want to just arbor over some of it as shown in the #MSPAINT photo below:

Due to roofline on the house I was struggling with where to anchor in the arbor, but does right under the roofline make sense? (just thinking out loud) - I also wanted to keep the railing on the deck and reinforce the beams that will be needed under the deck so I don't have to cut into the deck - but not against doing that if I need to (like add a 4X6 under the deck into a foundation to carry the load)

But I just want to add the arbor about where shown and then I would have the open deck area (where I would move the grill to) and then move the seating area under the arbor - mainly just trying to find a way to sit outside and not stare at my neighbors & not have a 20" span of arbor - that's the dimension from the back of the house to the back of the deck



apligize for the mess, wind blew the screen door off last week  wind blew those chairs to that side of the deck!

 

[Supe]

We have a raised deck (about 3 feet) that I'd like to add a screened in porch to.  Part of me says f*ck it, just do it with HOA approval, and part of me says I should get it permitted so I don't have to worry about "unpermitted additions" for resale.  My only concern is being able to put a shade up to block the asshole neighbor's view.

 

[Master slacker]

I've been wanting to add a shed roof to my now-smaller deck for a while.  Something to keep the harsh summer morning sun off the side of the house (no insulation) and to be able to keep things outside, even in the rain, and not get soaked (shoes with chicken or dog sh*t on them).  The deck is solid, but don't want to concrete any more 6x6's and would rather anchor them to the deck / beams as they are.  Haven't found a tidy solution yet.  

 

[User1]

So this summer I am wanting to add an arbor to our back deck. The back deck is "yuge" and I want to just arbor over some of it as shown in the #MSPAINT photo below:

Due to roofline on the house I was struggling with where to anchor in the arbor, but does right under the roofline make sense? (just thinking out loud) - I also wanted to keep the railing on the deck and reinforce the beams that will be needed under the deck so I don't have to cut into the deck - but not against doing that if I need to (like add a 4X6 under the deck into a foundation to carry the load)

But I just want to add the arbor about where shown and then I would have the open deck area (where I would move the grill to) and then move the seating area under the arbor - mainly just trying to find a way to sit outside and not stare at my neighbors & not have a 20" span of arbor - that's the dimension from the back of the house to the back of the deck

apligize for the mess, wind blew the screen door off last week  wind blew those chairs to that side of the deck!

my only concern with attaching to the top of deck (like through the deck to a reinforced beam location) is lateral movement/lack of resistance - if you get that wind is it gonna snap the posts off the deck? so it could be a pretty hefty connection (read: not aesthetically pleasing) and I would recommend cutting a slot for the post to slide down and attach into the side of your reinforced beam to resist some of the rotation and look nicer / concealed in the end. my $0.02 

 

[Road Guy]

So what I was mentally planning is to make a footer under the deck for support like dis:

We do get crazy winds here - do you really think the weight of the arbor wouldn’t be enough to offset the winds? I hadn’t thought about that angle.  Is there a thought of XX pounds will resist X mph winds?

I’m thinking I’ll have 6X6 posts with several 2x10/12 and such up top for weight?

Maybe it will just be easier to remove some deck boards and put the post directly into the concrete footing and reconstruct the deck around the posts..

 

[humner]

@knight1fox3 I found the estimate - I was shocked too! - but this was the lowest guy I had price it - and several folks wouldn't even come look at it if the "project" was under $50K..

I had to kind of pull a "Richard Move" -  after it was sheet rocked and mudded I told the guy I had some unforeseen expenses come up and would need to push the rest of the project until next year.  I think he had another (better job) lined up so he didn't whine too much but I could tell he was not happy - it was difficult to even get a breakdown like this from him or any others- they would just list a lump sum price and then want to paid every 2 weeks - I wasn't willing to deal with anyone that wanted a third payment up front either..

But I wasn't about to pay $6 grand for painting and molding / doors (I had a total of 3 doors)- I also saved over a grand doing the finish on the electrical myself & outlets and circuit breakers and such) I couldn't believe what people want, I think I had 10 can lights, 20 outlets, 5 switched and 6 circuit breakers and the electrician wanted like nearly $1500 to do that and said it would take under a day?  Also the plumbing cost was only rough in, they set the shower pan and the toilet / sink rough in and I did the rest, I think the total cost for them to do the bathroom was $5G's or more (& that wasn't a tile shower)

But this give kind of a breakdown of cost if your want something to compare by, and this was around 900 SF and no real rooms just one big open floor plan, framed out a bathroom, framed around my utility stuff but  I left everything else open..

Sheetrock ended up being around $6K and framing $4500 so he was actually good about his estimates being a little over, but we didn't do anything extra along the way.. I am glad its done and hope to never have to do another one.. (this is my 3rd basement finish)

View attachment 12472

View attachment 12474

You have the plumbing on the outside wall.  Flip your bathroom around so you have access to the tub/shower from under the stairs. 

 

[mudpuppy]

@Road Guy Was your basement already plumbed for the toilet, sink and shower drains?

I'm thinking about adding a tub in my basement, but we'd have (1) figure out where the drain runs, and (2) cut the slab to get to it.  How much of a PITA would that turn into?  The whole basement is finished already so I'd have to tear out carpet, etc.

 

[Road Guy]

humner - that would have been a good idea to rotate the bathroom! (But too late its done) But I would have had to relocate the toilet drains. The shower drain probably would have been good to go either direction. 

MP- yeah it was already plumbed in for the toilet and shower.

In my old house we cut into the basement slab to move the bathroom location, I just rented a jack-hammer from Home Depot and made some saw cuts with a concrete blade on a  circular saw. It was a PIA and I only moved it around 10 FT.  I would maybe get someone to chase that down for you as to where the drains go - I would think that would be a substantial effort

 

[wilheldp_PE]

I did some wiring last night, and it took more cussing than I budgeted for.  I got a couple of new receptacles wired up with one of them being switched.  I took some continuity measurements before turning the breaker back on, and kept finding 40 ohms between hot and neutral.  I was convinced that I had damaged a piece of Romex somewhere by pulling or hitting it while installing things.  After not being able to find any obvious damage to the wiring, I finally decided to try unplugging everything attached to that circuit.  Turns out I had a bunch of wall warts plugged into a power strip on this circuit.  They have been sitting there burning 360 watts continuously for god knows how long.