Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
Which is better and why?
CJ5 or Wrangler?
CJ5 or Wrangler?
The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
- Start date
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Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
^^^ Some are talored more for drag racing versus auto-crossing. They all work together to get more power from the engine to the wheels and keep the car pointed in the right direction.
2010 Camaro
2010 Camaro
Flyer_PE
Jr. PE / Sr. Company Pilot
IMO, the switch from fresh, rubber bushings to poly often offers little to no improvement, and the poly has a tendency to squeak and bind.
That said, for middle of the road street car stuff, I like BMR and Hotchkis.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
I'm back and forth between Pedders, LSR, and BMR with the sways and end links. The LSR and BMR sways are 3-way adjustable front & rear (LSR seems to be stiffer), whereas the Pedders offers solid bars and even a ZL1 conversion for my SS. Unfortunately I can't seem to find much as far as comparisons between them all. I keep leaning towards the BMR stuff because that's what the local Camaro Club guys use and seem to like.
Stiffness in sway bars is overrated, especially when being too stiff at the front end can lead to significant understeer. Same goes for the adjustable end links - largely useless other than being able to set it to neutral, and fairly ineffective IMO unless its been set neutral with the driver in the car and the car's been corner weighted. I've never seen the LSR stuff up close, but from the pics, they don't look as beefy as the BMR pieces do. I used to have a set of double adjustable BMR control arms for a G Body, and you could probably lift a house with one.
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wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
Enough talk from people who know what their talking about. Time for another n00b question.
So, about 1.5 years ago, I walked out of a casino at about 2 am and tried to start my car. It was dead. The roaming security car jumped it with a battery booster pack, but when I popped the hood, we noticed a ton of corrosion on the battery terminals. I haven't had a dead battery since, and I haven't done anything to correct the problem.
Today after work, I stopped at the local oil change joint. They also noticed a ton of corrosion on my battery terminals and cleaned it as part of their normal routine. When they were done, I tried to start the car...and it would turn over. They had to give me a jump.
It's time for a new battery anyway (~50k miles), but I am just wondering what the deal is with all that corrosion. Is it something with the car or just a bad battery? I don't want to replace the battery just to have it happen again.
So, about 1.5 years ago, I walked out of a casino at about 2 am and tried to start my car. It was dead. The roaming security car jumped it with a battery booster pack, but when I popped the hood, we noticed a ton of corrosion on the battery terminals. I haven't had a dead battery since, and I haven't done anything to correct the problem.
Today after work, I stopped at the local oil change joint. They also noticed a ton of corrosion on my battery terminals and cleaned it as part of their normal routine. When they were done, I tried to start the car...and it would turn over. They had to give me a jump.
It's time for a new battery anyway (~50k miles), but I am just wondering what the deal is with all that corrosion. Is it something with the car or just a bad battery? I don't want to replace the battery just to have it happen again.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
I did some looking into this not too long ago myself. Basically, every time you put two different (dis-similar) metals together one becomes the anode and one becomes the cathode. When you pass electricity through them the anode then corrodes. The battery terminals on most if not all car batteries are lead. The terminal clamps can be made of stamped steel, or possibly coated copper, which would produce the best for current flow and draw, but would also make the outside of your battery (especially at the clamps) like the inside of your battery. The cells inside a battery are the same basic composition. There are 2 dis-similar metals, one part lead, the other is generally copper. This with the electrolytic solution (battery acid) creates current. The corrosion you see is due to the dis-similar metals. As this happens over time, it's not very prevalent in newer batteries, but rather older batteries. A solution of baking soda and water will clean it right up using an old toothbrush (may also protect against future corrosion for awhile). I've been told you can also buy (local auto parts store) a coating to spray on the terminals that prevents oxygen penetration.
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
The corrosion is hard to prevent as K1F3 notes above. Utilizing baking soda solution works well for cleaning the top of the battery and the posts of the old corrosion (a can of coke does wonders too, but leaves a sticky film). The spray coatings from the autoparts store are decent, but there's a cheaper alternative (see below). This cleaning should occur yearly (preferably before winter) when you go over the vehicle to ensure everything is good for another winter. Be sure to check all the connections as a bad connection can cause battery drain as you've already experienced.
If a jump is getting you started, but it's not kicking off on its own otherwise, it may be the battery, it could be a bad connection or the cable itself has started to corrode internally and need repair / replacement. Sometimes, you'll have to change out a cable or two. If you have a NAPA, CarQuest, O'Rielly Auto or similar chain autoparts store, ask the counter folk if they'll test your battery / alternator in the vehicle. This will help diagnose the problem without going to the shop and you can't beat the price (usually free!).
If you find you have a bad cable end, don't get the bolt on replacement clamps to fix a cable unless it's all you can get to get you to a better parts store; they have a bad tendancy to break. Always try to get the correct cable for the job, one that is crimped and/or soldered into place as they'll last a LOT longer.
Now, for something to help combat the corrosion, if you have any grease guns, or even wheel bearing grease, coat the battery terminal with grease before putting on the clamps, it won't take much to get it done. The grease doesn't seem to wear off as quickly as the autoparts spray bottle and repels moisture better.
If a jump is getting you started, but it's not kicking off on its own otherwise, it may be the battery, it could be a bad connection or the cable itself has started to corrode internally and need repair / replacement. Sometimes, you'll have to change out a cable or two. If you have a NAPA, CarQuest, O'Rielly Auto or similar chain autoparts store, ask the counter folk if they'll test your battery / alternator in the vehicle. This will help diagnose the problem without going to the shop and you can't beat the price (usually free!).
If you find you have a bad cable end, don't get the bolt on replacement clamps to fix a cable unless it's all you can get to get you to a better parts store; they have a bad tendancy to break. Always try to get the correct cable for the job, one that is crimped and/or soldered into place as they'll last a LOT longer.
Now, for something to help combat the corrosion, if you have any grease guns, or even wheel bearing grease, coat the battery terminal with grease before putting on the clamps, it won't take much to get it done. The grease doesn't seem to wear off as quickly as the autoparts spray bottle and repels moisture better.
wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
The guys at the quick lube place told me that when I get the battery replaced, I'm going to need new cables (or at least clamps). I'm putting it in the shop tomorrow morning for a brake job and general tune-up, so I'm just going to tell them to give me a new battery and cables while they're at it. I was just worried that maybe something was wrong with my car that would cause a new battery to have the same problem. I've never had it happen with previous cars.
The parts stores will also throw in some de-Ox w/ the battery purchase. It's usually a clear or red grease that you apply to the terminals and clamps. There's also a green and red felt washer w/ the same stuff on it to slip around the terminals first. I've never had corrosion issues using these.
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
^^^ I've only used the felt washers. Never needed the grease.
wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
They replaced the battery and one of the clamps (not sure which one) and they said it's running like a champ. No problems with the alternator.
jeb6294
Well-known member
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
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knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
Not a car guru by any means, but would any of these work? http://motors.shop.e...70.l1313&_rdc=1 Some of the descriptions say "fits Catalina". :dunno:
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
Go to RockAuto online. If they don't have it, you'll be going to the pick-n-pull to find one. I've found a bunch of parts for my IH Scouts there that O'Rielly and Napa couldn't get!
