Obviously. In fact, I had three separate strikes to the same windshield on that trip. One from a cement truck in Houston, and then two on I-10 in Lousy-ana.
The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
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I don't know if its an NC law too, but my insurance agent commented that any glass under the comprehensive policy would have no affect on rates.
Road Guy
Well-known member
Do you think this would be an easy Saturday project?
So 33's fit on a stock wrangler, but now its a little "tight" Runs good but thinking of putting this leveling kit on to gain just a little bit better look and articulation.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-jku-1-5-perf-leveling-1351500-cust-install-J101887.html
Looks like the biggest PIA would be just doing this on the floor of the garage? Id get a real life but I have 2 kids in college almost..
So 33's fit on a stock wrangler, but now its a little "tight" Runs good but thinking of putting this leveling kit on to gain just a little bit better look and articulation.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-jku-1-5-perf-leveling-1351500-cust-install-J101887.html
Looks like the biggest PIA would be just doing this on the floor of the garage? Id get a real life but I have 2 kids in college almost..
csb
Well-known member
At some point your taking the load off the spring and then putting it back on. A quick look at the instructions indicates that they do it by using a jack stand to hold the body up and the hydraulic jack on the axle to unload the spring and then jack the axle back up to load the spring. I think spring compressors would allow you to do that in a more controlled fashion.
https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T70570-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B00A8FNRDY
Sorry, other than tonight, I'm tied up until my flight tomorrow.
Yeah, we call springs "missiles" at that point. Even with safety chains, the stored energy is massive. A good spring compressor (you can usually rent them from Autozone, etc.) goes a long way.
jeb6294
Well-known member
It's been way too long since I put the lift on my Jeep, but I most certainly did not use a decapitator, aka, a spring compressor. I remember being able to drop the axles enough that you could just pull the springs out. Putting the new taller springs in wasn't quite as easy, but even that didn't call for any extra "stuff". The only thing I can't remember is if there was anything that I had to disconnect to get enough drop, i.e. trackbar, control arm, sway bar, etc.
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Road Guy
Well-known member
I would ask this question on jeepforum but all I would get in reply is "aww you need 37's man and a XXXX $50000 lift blah blah blah"1 Lols
I think Autozone actually rents them (spring comressors) for next to nothing so may not be a bad backup plan if I cant get them on -
All the 4 Wheel shops are like 2 months out in terms of new work...
I originally looked at a cheaper kit but you have to remove the springs to install the spacers so I figured if I had to do that might as well go with the new coil springs?
I think Autozone actually rents them (spring comressors) for next to nothing so may not be a bad backup plan if I cant get them on -
All the 4 Wheel shops are like 2 months out in terms of new work...
I originally looked at a cheaper kit but you have to remove the springs to install the spacers so I figured if I had to do that might as well go with the new coil springs?
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jeb6294
Well-known member
4 hours install time
This is one of those kits that you can literally do with basic hand tools, a jack and jack stands. There is more than enough droop to drop the axles and easily swap out the springs.
My question would be if there's that much of a reason to do it in the first place. I thought the newer Jeeps were designed to run 33's from the factory. Seems like unnecessary time and expense for not much gain.
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Road Guy
Well-known member
Cause I need to spend the money this year so they don't take it away from my budget next year! 
#government
The 33's do fit on nicely but they do rub if you cut the wheel tight & they look "tight' in the rear ( @csb ) But that was a pretty slick thing they did (for a change) , the 33's were an immediate upgrade over the stock 29's
I looked into doing a similar gain suspension lift and it looks like a lot more work so figured I would do this just to help account for the added weight of the new bumper I need to put into next years budget
#governmentThe 33's do fit on nicely but they do rub if you cut the wheel tight & they look "tight' in the rear ( @csb ) But that was a pretty slick thing they did (for a change) , the 33's were an immediate upgrade over the stock 29's
I looked into doing a similar gain suspension lift and it looks like a lot more work so figured I would do this just to help account for the added weight of the new bumper I need to put into next years budget
jeb6294
Well-known member
Just doesn't look like much difference at all in the before -vs- after pictures. I did a 4" lift on mine and, looking at the install you posted, I think it was pretty much the same installation. They've already got you disconnecting the brake line brackets and sway bar links, an actual lift should only be a matter of replacing those or adding extension brackets. You're not going to get really difficult/expensive until you get up into a long arm suspension when you start replacing control arm mounts and such.
Road Guy
Well-known member
do you remember which one you put on by chance? I looked at a couple that were just a little more involved (had to relocate the break line versus detach it and re attach it) & it seems they also had you do some measuring and I lost interest
I don't think I will ever run 35's just due to how much driving I do, so I was mainly just looking for something that should give me around 2 inches of lift to help with some trail turns basically..
I don't think I will ever run 35's just due to how much driving I do, so I was mainly just looking for something that should give me around 2 inches of lift to help with some trail turns basically..
jeb6294
Well-known member
I believe it was this one: https://skyjacker.com/shop/suspension-lift-kit/tj401bphx/, although I don't think those are the right instructions because they look like they have a lot more stuff included that didn't come with the kit.
Did the whole thing in my single-car garage over the course of a weekend, but could have done it in a couple hours if I'd gone out and worked on it instead of taking breaks and such.
Did the whole thing in my single-car garage over the course of a weekend, but could have done it in a couple hours if I'd gone out and worked on it instead of taking breaks and such.
jeb6294
Well-known member
https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_lift_kits_suspension/lift_kits?f[0]=sm_liftkit_height_range%3A3 - 4.5 inch&solrsort=ps_commerce_price_low asc
Not sure if it's still the case, but SkyJacker, Fabtech, Teraflex and Rubicon Express used to be considered the better kits.
Not sure if it's still the case, but SkyJacker, Fabtech, Teraflex and Rubicon Express used to be considered the better kits.
Master slacker
Something awesome.
After replacing all four plugs and one misfiring coil, another coil decided to go south. Bit the bullet and replaced the remaining three coils. Some cars are still able to be easily worked on.
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So, random question. Went to do my 40k checkup at the dealership for my 2016 Corolla S. They came back and said that my brake fluid was 'dirty' and that I should get my brake fluid flushed. They quoted $185, which I knew was high, so I didn't get it done. Went to another auto shop and they quoted me $100 to get it done next weekend (guy seemed legit and stated how much would be materials vs. time). I don't mind getting this done if I need to, but there seems to be a huge divide on the internet when I googled this, with a ton of people saying you should get it done every 30k miles, or every 3 years, and others saying they've had a car for 10+ years and never flushed the brake fluid. I do live on Long Island, where the moisture is really high year round and the county seems really aggressive with salt during the winter (if that makes a difference).
I guess what I'm asking is: is there a way for me to check my brake fluid to see if it is "dirty"/doesn't look like olive oil, and is it worth it for me to get changed ASAP if it is dirty, or can I wait a while/drive on it? Also, would my brakes be flushed when I get my brake pads replaced/any work done on my brakes?
I'm really "car dumb", and don't mind paying for work on my car, but I also don't want to pay for something that really doesn't need to be fixed (it's a Corolla, not like a Shelby or Audi).
I guess what I'm asking is: is there a way for me to check my brake fluid to see if it is "dirty"/doesn't look like olive oil, and is it worth it for me to get changed ASAP if it is dirty, or can I wait a while/drive on it? Also, would my brakes be flushed when I get my brake pads replaced/any work done on my brakes?
I'm really "car dumb", and don't mind paying for work on my car, but I also don't want to pay for something that really doesn't need to be fixed (it's a Corolla, not like a Shelby or Audi).
