Home Improvement/Repair Questions

[youngmotivatedengineer]

My yards and double driveway is full of leaves from my adjacent neighbors.  After renting at a condo complex for 3 years, I'm actually excited to get back to doing yard work.  

 

[MA_PE]

Blowing leaves into anybody’s yard is a real d@#k maneuver.  We abut woods so I dump mine there.  I’ve paid someone to do it the past couple of years and I make them take the leaves away.  I’ve got an oak (city owned) in front of the house.  The acorns are a royal pita.  I have to pay the landscaper an extra $100 because of the acorns.

 

[Road Guy]

Usually We get very high winds (this time of year when the leaves fall) I’ve never had to rake the front - I don’t know where they go but they disappear before I can get to them - I figure that’s gods will or something...but the back yard for some reason the leaves are real heavy and don’t blow away...

raking leaves  into a bag was new to me when we moved here and I bought one of those leaf vacuum sucker things - but it’s really just faster to rake them up the old fashioned way

 

[ChebyshevII PE PMP]

Ok, need an opinion...

We have a wooden deck in our backyard. It was built over some of the window wells in our basement, so those rooms have a view of the underside and it’s always dark. I’m considering removing it and replacing with a concrete patio instead; it would be a heck of a lot less maintenance, would allow light into the basement, and could look just as nice.

Should I do it or no?

 

[Supe]

I'd use it until it rots, then get rid of it.  A patio with nice seating/plants shouldn't lose any value compared to a deck.  Maybe consider a paver patio in lieu of concrete, as they don't crack and can be a cheaper DIY project.  

 

[jeb6294]

Mom went from a wood deck to a concrete patio. Personally, I think I probably prefer the deck, but the patio is fine too. I will say the concrete is a lot easier to maintain. The deck had to be cleaned and stained every few years and after a while as the wood dried out, it got more and more "splintery".

 

[Road Guy]

if you just want the light can you modify it so that it is open at the windo wells? (thats how ours is)

I peronsally like the look of the wood deck (weve got the trex deck stuff) - ours is pretty low to the ground and Ive often wondered about doing a brick patio - but I was just never a fan of the concrete patio - unless there was some staining or paterns or something?

 

[ChebyshevII PE PMP]

if you just want the light can you modify it so that it is open at the windo wells? (thats how ours is)

I peronsally like the look of the wood deck (weve got the trex deck stuff) - ours is pretty low to the ground and Ive often wondered about doing a brick patio - but I was just never a fan of the concrete patio - unless there was some staining or paterns or something?

Staining and stamping would most likely be in the picture if we were to go with concrete. Light is one of the main factors, but the maintenance aspect is equally important for me.

I'd use it until it rots, then get rid of it.  A patio with nice seating/plants shouldn't lose any value compared to a deck.  Maybe consider a paver patio in lieu of concrete, as they don't crack and can be a cheaper DIY project.  

I do like the idea of a paver patio, but the question would be whether I’d like to deal with possible cracks or weeds. Either way, both would be easier to maintain than a wooden deck, from my perspective.

 

[Supe]

Staining and stamping would most likely be in the picture if we were to go with concrete.

I do like the idea of a paver patio, but the question would be whether I’d like to deal with possible cracks or weeds. Either way, both would be easier to maintain than a wooden deck, from my perspective.

If the base is done right, you shouldn't get any weeds.  I have a stamped concrete patio from the PO, and it looks like crap in various areas due to cracks propagating.  If you do get weeds, you get to play with a weed burner anyways!

 

[Road Guy]

so ive been trying to chase down why my outside outlets dont work and discovered why ( partially my fault) but the outdoor outlets are on a GFI that resides in the basement-  behind the water heater - this area used to be open but when I finished the basement in it got missed that you cant (easily) access this area anymore- most of the reason is my new water heater is more of a "tuna can sam" and is short and wide   but I can no longer squeeze behind it to access it- I was able to reset the GFI with a long screw driver, but I am sure someone will ***** if and when I go to sell the house.

I put up a wall right next to but not directly behind the outlet so maybe I could install one of those access panels so you can techincally reach it?

I also found another item I need to fix in my my circuit panel.  I had hired an electricain to install the sub panel but I did the final wiring - City inspector didnt actually look at how the wires are done but I have 3 areas on one circuit breaker -I did have to install the breakers that have the "test" feature built in ( cant recall what that is called) but I suppose each of the 3 areas should be on its own? (right now they are all pig tailed into a 15 amp circuit). I had totally forgot that I needed to come back and give each their own breaker but how do you determine how much can go on a single breaker? Or should I assume that since the electrician ran seperate wires from each of these areas to the panel that he intendid to give each their own breaker?

1. TheGFI mentioned above that controls two outdoor receptacles
   
2. lights, receptcle, for a closet ( really one light, and one receptacle)
   
3. Half the lights in the large room of the basement ( 4 can lights)
   

Thanks for any help, I could ask google, but I fgure there are smarter people here

 

[ChebyshevII PE PMP]

so ive been trying to chase down why my outside outlets dont work and discovered why ( partially my fault) but the outdoor outlets are on a GFI that resides in the basement-  behind the water heater - this area used to be open but when I finished the basement in it got missed that you cant (easily) access this area anymore- most of the reason is my new water heater is more of a "tuna can sam" and is short and wide   but I can no longer squeeze behind it to access it- I was able to reset the GFI with a long screw driver, but I am sure someone will ***** if and when I go to sell the house.

I put up a wall right next to but not directly behind the outlet so maybe I could install one of those access panels so you can techincally reach it?

I also found another item I need to fix in my my circuit panel.  I had hired an electricain to install the sub panel but I did the final wiring - City inspector didnt actually look at how the wires are done but I have 3 areas on one circuit breaker -I did have to install the breakers that have the "test" feature built in ( cant recall what that is called) but I suppose each of the 3 areas should be on its own? (right now they are all pig tailed into a 15 amp circuit). I had totally forgot that I needed to come back and give each their own breaker but how do you determine how much can go on a single breaker? Or should I assume that since the electrician ran seperate wires from each of these areas to the panel that he intendid to give each their own breaker?

1. TheGFI mentioned above that controls two outdoor receptacles
   
2. lights, receptcle, for a closet ( really one light, and one receptacle)
   
3. Half the lights in the large room of the basement ( 4 can lights)
   

Thanks for any help, I could ask google, but I fgure there are smarter people here

Your breaker is either an AFCI or a GFCI. I would guess it's GFCI but without seeing it I can't be sure.

For light circuits I would determine what the standard wattage is for each light fixture and determine total wattage from that (if your fixture would take 60w luminescent bulbs normally, use 60w as a worst-case scenario). For outlets, technically you can put as many as you want since they draw no power on their own, but you should still be reasonable (You don't want to have 18 outlets with 100w each on them; that would overload the circuit).

Are you sure you don't want the outdoor receptacles on a 20A breaker? What will they be used for?

EDIT: Just in case it isn't clear, you determine how much you can put on an outlet by total watts. For a 15A breaker, you can put up to 1800W on the load (120V x 15A). For 20A, it's 2400W. (This is of course assuming we're not talking about a motor circuit or something with a large inrush).

 

[Road Guy]

AFCI thats what its called, also $$$$ - all of them in the basement are AFCI (except the one for the GFI in the bathroom) which is just a regular breaker.

I have never used the outdoor outlets all that much, usually just for xmas lights or the occasional tool usage -but its been sparingly, but probably a 20A would take the occasional use of a circ saw or come other heavier power tool. I could move the 15A to one of the lights and pick up another 20A AFCI ?  ive got plenty of room in the panel so other than the high dollar cost of the Arc Faults its easy to add one for each.

Can you do a AFCI on top of a regular GFI receptable?   I didnt know if that was like a double double or something (thinking back to why the bathroom GFI is on a reg breaker?)
 

 

[ChebyshevII PE PMP]

AFCI thats what its called, also $$$$ - all of them in the basement are AFCI (except the one for the GFI in the bathroom) which is just a regular breaker.

I have never used the outdoor outlets all that much, usually just for xmas lights or the occasional tool usage -but its been sparingly, but probably a 20A would take the occasional use of a circ saw or come other heavier power tool. I could move the 15A to one of the lights and pick up another 20A AFCI ?  ive got plenty of room in the panel so other than the high dollar cost of the Arc Faults its easy to add one for each.

Can you do a AFCI on top of a regular GFI receptable?   I didnt know if that was like a double double or something (thinking back to why the bathroom GFI is on a reg breaker?)
 

AFCI and GFCI serve different purposes. The former is for equipment protection from fire, and the latter is for human protection from shock. There shouldn’t be any reason why a GFCI outlet wouldn’t work on an AFCI breaker.

I also forgot one detail. Per National Electrical Code, conductors carrying continuous loads (ones that will have maximum current for 3 hours or more at a time) need to be derated to 80% of the full ampacity. So a lighting circuit will actually be limited to 0.8x15A = 12A, which gives you 1440W total, if you plan on sticking with #14 wire. If you need more, upsize the wire.

And, if you do go with a 20A breaker, make sure you've sized your wire appropriately.

 

[mudpuppy]

Cheby's posts are spot on.  Just to add to what he said:

From what I've read AFCIs are required for pretty much everything new these days (residential), but if you don't put one in worst is you'll be called out on it in an inspection.

Since your wiring is already installed, 20 A vs 15 A will be dictated by your wire.  If it's 14 AWG copper you have to use a 15 A breaker.  If it's 12 AWG you can go to 20 A.

I just did a little code research and AFCIs are not required if it only serves a bathroom.  And of course a GFCI is required in a bathroom.  But if the circuit serves both a bathroom and something else then an AFCI is required (and a GFCI would be required in the bathroom.)

In my opinion, more circuits is better.  I have one circuit that feeds half the basement and most of the 2nd floor and I can't run a space heater in more than one room because it trips the circuit.  So if all three circuits are wired back to the panel then I'd just bite the bullet and install two more breakers.

 

[Road Guy]

thanks to both of you, very helpful, Ill add some more breakers this weekend!

Ill grab a pic but I still dont konw what to do with my inaccessible receptacle!

 

[Road Guy]

anyone have one of these?

 

[Supe]

Looked into them a while back.  Biggest downside is that they're small and don't throw off a ton of heat radially (most of the heat goes straight up like a chimney).  They're also a ***** to clean and the finish gets ruined pretty quickly.  

 

[Road Guy]

the size is what i thought would be bad, I saw one in use at a hardware store here and it put out some heat but it looked like you would need perfectly manicured firewood..

I finally burnt a hole in my fire pit and need to either make one out of those rock wall blocks or get another cheapo metal ones

 

[Supe]

They do burn HOT, but because of their size and the fact that they're double walled, you've got to be hovering really close to it.  It's not something you'd want 6-8 people trying to squeeze around in the yard.  You also have to tip them over to empty them out, which sucks, because it has to cool down enough to handle before it rains, or it turns the ash into hockey pucks and starts to rust it out.

 

[snickerd3]

what is this firepit nonsense