Wife has been looking into redoing some of ours. I think she’s found that it isn’t complicated, it’s just messy and time consuming.I know you can rent the floor sanders from HD/tool rental places.Has anyone done a DIY resurfacing of hardwood floors? If so, any tips on best practices? I just closed on a 170 year old house with oak floors throughout. Half of which were covered by carpet.
I figured since I have some time on my hands I’d give it a shot but I don’t want to ruin anything.
I guess our house was built before A/C was affordable or popular, but we have the original whole-house fan still in the attic (out of service). About 3' diameter with 1/2 hp motor. That thing must have been loud AF. I wish we still had one, loud or not, because it could be used a lot more than the A/C for half the year.seems like I always ponder doing this this time of year but looking at whole house fans
I love hardwood floors. Doesn't absorb the smells that get into carpet and carpet pads, don't stain, and easy to clean.... but after living in houses with wal-to-wall hardwood floors, I hate them. If it were up to me, I would keep some of it and put in carpet in our current house
X2. Floor sanders tend to be very aggressive, and its easy to ruin the floors if they have high spots and you're not accustomed to doing them.It my understanding that refinishing hardwood floors with a power disk sanders requires skills like finished carpentry. It’s easy to end up with uneven surfaces which then translate to uneven looking amateurish finished results. If one has the luxury of an empty house fit the entire area that needs to be refinished, it’s most cost effective to hire a professional to go in, sand and apply a couple of coats of lacquer /stain and be done with it.
My old house had some cracks in the basement that were letting water in. I had someone come in and do epoxy injection. I think that was about as good as it’s going to get short of digging up the foundation and patching it on the outside.I just recently bought some flex-seal tape for managing a small plumbing leak. The tape is sticky as all get out but not on wet surfaces. It also did not like being on the negative pressure side of the pipe leak. Tried wrapping the active “pinhole” leak and it didn’t hold. Shut off the water, cleaned and dried the copper pipe, and wrapped with the tape. Turned on the water and it held for about 5 minutes before it leaked out the edge of the tape. Of course line pressure of 40-60psi is much grater that a couple of ft of head on a basement wall. I highly doubt you get long term adhesion on a poured concrete wall. The wall will definitely need to be dry and free of any laitance to promote adhesion. I suppose adding the flex seal couldn’t hurt but I don’t think it’s going to really add anything. Bottom line is that negative side waterproofing pretty much never works in the long term.
Yup. Injection is the best way to seal cracks from the inside.My old house had some cracks in the basement that were letting water in. I had someone come in and do epoxy injection. I think that was about as good as it’s going to get short of digging up the foundation and patching it on the outside.
We aren’t rushing to replace the drywall so I’ll continue to keep an eye on it. If it starts leaking then I’d see about getting the epoxy injection, but I’m hopeful that even that is not necessary.
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