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I think my power source is coming from the light and not the switch, but I guess then I just do it in reverse?

 
I had the same problem when I wired a 3-way.  I was all set to live with the lop-sided behavior and someone convinced that I was wired wrong.  I forget what the magic combination was but I got it somehow and things worked properly.  :dunno:

This guy explains it pretty well

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=B9N5Wv64JY6B5wLZ0afADg&q=how+to+wire+a+three+way+light+switch&oq=how+to+wire+a+three&gs_l=psy-ab.1.1.0l10.2224.9869.0.11470.25.18.3.4.4.0.180.1742.13j5.18.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.25.1768...0i131k1j0i22i30k1.0.1vBSFQ3yAOg#kpvalbx=1

 
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I think my power source is coming from the light and not the switch, but I guess then I just do it in reverse?


It'll work in reverse, but if your fixture is wired backwards it's less safe because you could get a shock by touching the bulb base.  The hot should really be connected to the little piece of metal in the bottom of the socket.

 
It doesn't look quite as bad in person, the picture makes it look more mustard

Mainly I think we were just tired of going to the paint store
Agree that it looks like it's the lighting from the vanity making it look warmer/yellowy.

 
^ I hope you're doing that right with a case of beer so you're good to go when you have a case of FTS. :thumbs:

 
Was up late waiting on the wife and kids united flight that was 5 hours late! So I finished the floors -except I am 4 boards short!

Now I just have to do some cleanup and install some molding and doors and it'll be done

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We had decided not to mess with the carpet on the stairs going down to the basement, but now that the flooring is in they absolutely need to get it replaced with something, looks like shit..

 
Looking good!

Side note, is that a CO thing to have your water heater Reynolds wrapped? :dunno:

 
stupid cat used the insulation around the water heater as a scratch pad so I just used some HVAC tape to repair it.. been meaning to get some new insulation but just haven't gotten around to it...

 
so is the water heater typically wrapped with insulation on the exterior?  Here we have a sheet metal can on the exterior and whatever insulation is there is inboard of that.

Floor looks nice.  Wre you bale to get 4 more boards or did you leave some place bare?

 
yeah its like a big sleeve that wraps around it. Not sure if it really works all that well or not, figured I would replace this with one of those tankless ones whenever this one goes, its 12 years old so probably soon..

I'm going to have to go find some more floor, I took the pics before I got to the end, I'll grab another pic that shows the back half. We had to special order it from HD- so It might be a while before it gets here..

We went with a semi laminate style which is water proof and ok for basements, it also had the underlayment built in, was sort of a PIA to learn the "trick" to get it all locked in but once that was figured out went fairly smooth, the main room is 24' long and that one was just sort of a PIA

I've got to get the final inspection scheduled. they said they don't need the molding and doors (or floors) up for that, but just need to get that done with..

We roughed in the plumbing and electrical for a future wet bar in one of the corners, thinking were going to want that done sooner rather than later. it was nice at our old basement to not have to lug beer glasses and cocktail glasses up and down the stairs..

also wish I had put more insulation in the ceiling, the floor above is all tile and its fairly noisy when folks (kids) are stomping about..

 
I probably know the answer to this but figured I would ask you electrical types..

I paid a guy to wire in a new sub panel- I have my final inspection next week so I was checking all the electrical finish work that I did & I hadn't noticed but it looks like he wired in one new 15A circuit breaker that has the GFI built into it. But he has like 3 lines going into this one breaker - best I can describe it as a "pig tail" connection?  I am assuming he did this just to have temporary power or something? I am assuming this is not allowed?  None of the lines need GFI protection for where they are (have them in places the City called them out when I got my permit) Assuming I just need to add individual breakers for each of those lines? (they are essentially one rooms outlets and all the can lights)

 
I'd call the guy who wired and ask him....it's his work.

 
I tried and he hasn't called me back, I think he is pissed cause he was planning on getting paid $1,200 to do the "finish" part (outlets, lights, and the breakers) - I think I might have $250 in those materials I have bought.. building prices are just asinine here.. 

 

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