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Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?

$220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt

 
Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?

$220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt


I've got a '96. :D

Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?

$220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt


W-bod. Not a fan of the B-bods.


<cough> Wimpala! <cough> :banhim:

 
^

il_fullxfull.341735971.jpg


L67 +1000

 
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I'm pretty sure the Eaton unit has it all over Weiand's when it comes to efficiency.

FWD, RWD...bah...doesn't matter on the street until it gets rainy or snowy, then its....

FWD +100

 
Batteries have gotten expensive, I couldn't find one for the Cherokee for less than $130. But $220 for plugs is outrageous--you sure that didn't include anything else? Coils? Timing chain?

I second the thought to replace the plug wires. Eventually the insulation will start to break down and you'll start getting shorts, although this is probably more a factor of age than mileage.


I paid $120 for a battery for the Land Cruiser this past weekend.

 
I think the $220 was for labor and plugs (possibly the wires?). They told me it would take them an hour and a half to do and don't they charge something outrageous like $90/ hr?

On another note, just got my plate renewal bill in the mail. $135. Damn! TX was still cheaper even with the required state inspection. I believe registration was around $65 and inspection around $40.

 
Just replaced the batteries on the backup rigs last year, about $150 each rig; but I get bigger batteries than required and they usually last me 4-5 years. Plugs, wires & distributor on the plow truck was a whopping $35 total. It'll be around $50 when I do the other backup rig this spring. Primary rig has no plugs, wires or coils (diesel w/ grid heater).

If I look at the registration costs, I spend $200 every two years to register 3 rigs. Not too bad actually, since its $100 / rig / 2 years. Yes, the math doesn't work out, but one rig has amateur radio plates, so the registration renewal is zero.

My ol' '89 ranger was a pain to change the plugs since you had to pull the throttle body to get to 3 of them. It was a 4 cylinder with dual coil packs and 2 plugs per cylinder. I took it in everytime I had to get the plugs changed on it because it required a computer reset while you were pulling things apart. Real pain in the kiester!

 
^My plates and property tax were less than that!


Michigan's plate renewal fee includes the property tax. It's based on sticker price, so I pay a lot more for my 16 year old Jeep Cherokee than my 7 year old Aveo. I think the Jeep was around $100 and the Aveo is about $60.

 
I think Il is up to $101 or $102 a yr. They just added a few bucks to the fee this year for the state parks. I'll find out in couple months when my stickers are up for renewal

 
I'm pretty sure the Eaton unit has it all over Weiand's when it comes to efficiency.

FWD, RWD...bah...doesn't matter on the street until it gets rainy or snowy, then its....

FWD +100


Efficiency shmefficiency (sp?)...

Rain? In everyday driving, if one can drive, RWD > FWD. If one races on the street in rain or snow, one is an idiot.

 
^My plates and property tax were less than that!


Michigan's plate renewal fee includes the property tax. It's based on sticker price, so I pay a lot more for my 16 year old Jeep Cherokee than my 7 year old Aveo. I think the Jeep was around $100 and the Aveo is about $60.
on sticker? In MA the excise tax is based on a "current value" so as the car ages the excise tax goes down. Standard registration is ~$40/2years. I have special plates so it's $100/year (yeah I know but It's has sentimental attachment). Inspection is $29 annually.

 
Yep, original sticker price. They dereate it by a little bit for a few years but then it bottoms out. That's why I pay 66% more for the Jeep than the Aveo, even though they are worth about the same now.

 
I forgot to mention, old of my old spark plugs looked pretty good for 108k miles. No corrosion or residue. Except...the last spark plug was covered in oil. My dad checked the oil level and said it was a bit high bc I had just gotten it changed. Could this be it? There wasn't oil anywhere else besides on the last spark plug.

 
oil on a plug indicates some blow by. Good be the rings are letting some oil by on that one cylinder. A little extra oil shouldn't foul just one plug.

 
With the fuel injection systems making complete combustion the norm, plugs can last a pretty good long time.

When I was a kid, they were a yearly replacement item.

 
They were also copper.

edit: not to say that today's plugs AREN'T copper, but the copper plugs back in the day weren't as good as they are now. That and the fact that fuel droplets in the combustion chamber with carbs will quickly blow away plugs.

 
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