Master slacker
Something awesome.
Just replace your flasher module. Pull yours out and put in one specifically for LED lights. Relatively cheap and literally plug-n-play.
The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
- Start date
Help Support Professional Engineer & PE Exam Forum:
Is that true for all cars? I was going to convert my 2002 Pontiac turn signal/brake lights/flashers to LEDs but wasn't sure if I could just swap out the bulbs.
Ble_PE
I need a beer.
csb
Well-known member
Master slacker
Something awesome.
Would you rather blow a fuse?
jeb6294
Well-known member
Can't...that only works up to 2010's. In the 2011's Ford SD's switched from a flasher relay to a BCM computer so your choices are to wire in some relays, go to the dealer and have them change it in the BCM with their software, or use Forscan to change it in the computer yourself. It sounds as easy as going to the right module in the code and changing a number to tell the computer to stop checking the voltage of the front turn signal bulbs, but I didn't know if anyone had tried anything like that before.
So after R&R of the transmission revealed no obvious issues, I think I finally got it figured out. Turns out the hydraulic throwout bearing was overextending the pressure plate fingers. Of course, it took an entire afternoon of trying to get the TOB bled to make this determination (tip - if you EVER have to bleed an hydraulic throwout bearing, use a MityVac or similar to put 20" of vacuum on the bleed line. Draw the line full of fluid first, then push pedal down, watch air bubbles disappear into reservoir, then release the pedal. Repeat. It's the ONLY way to stop the air from being drawn back into the bearing/line.)
With Junior fully pressing the pedal, I couldn't budge the back tires. As she slowly released the pedal, I could start to spin them. Short term fix - I fabricated an adjustable pedal stop for the clutch pedal to limit bearing throw. Long term fix - buy a RAM hydraulic adjuster and install in-line. It basically adds extra volume to the feed line via a screw adjuster, so I can limit overtravel and move the bite point down for the pedal. I have yet to test it out on the ground with the engine started, but if I can spin the damn wheels by hand on jackstands, then it has to be releasing.
I was able to get some small work done - rust converter sprayed where windshield frame had surface rust, race harness/belts installed, plug wire holders bolted in, engine limit turnbuckle installed. Pretty confident I can make the close-ish race three weeks from now. I could probably make the hillclimb in two, but that is not exactly the best place for a shakedown.
Bad news - my racing partner/coworker royally f*cked his car up at CMS this weekend doing fun runs. Lost concentration and tried a line he shouldn't have. Bounced the car sideways off a concrete barrier. Good bit of body damage, brand new steering rack broken, wheel shattered, and front suspension f*cked. I suspect he'll be driving my Porsche in the interim.
With Junior fully pressing the pedal, I couldn't budge the back tires. As she slowly released the pedal, I could start to spin them. Short term fix - I fabricated an adjustable pedal stop for the clutch pedal to limit bearing throw. Long term fix - buy a RAM hydraulic adjuster and install in-line. It basically adds extra volume to the feed line via a screw adjuster, so I can limit overtravel and move the bite point down for the pedal. I have yet to test it out on the ground with the engine started, but if I can spin the damn wheels by hand on jackstands, then it has to be releasing.
I was able to get some small work done - rust converter sprayed where windshield frame had surface rust, race harness/belts installed, plug wire holders bolted in, engine limit turnbuckle installed. Pretty confident I can make the close-ish race three weeks from now. I could probably make the hillclimb in two, but that is not exactly the best place for a shakedown.
Bad news - my racing partner/coworker royally f*cked his car up at CMS this weekend doing fun runs. Lost concentration and tried a line he shouldn't have. Bounced the car sideways off a concrete barrier. Good bit of body damage, brand new steering rack broken, wheel shattered, and front suspension f*cked. I suspect he'll be driving my Porsche in the interim.
So the "new" transmission in the racecar is a T101a out of a Chip Ganassi cup car. It's called a dogbox - it does not have synchros, only straight cut gears with dogs/sliders, e.g. "chunks" on rings that are about an inch apart with a slight back cut on them, intended to shift by slamming together.
On a synchro-based transmission, you would upshift by pressing the clutch in and shifting, and downshift by either just pressing the clutch and shifting (which can make the rear end squirrely and is hard on the engine), or clutch in under braking, and then blip the throttle with your heel to get the engine RPM's up before releasing the clutch, allowing a smooth shift.
So, I was curious as to the appropriate method for up/downshifting with a dog box, and couldn't get a clear answer. I found the transmission builder's number and gave him a call. His response for upshifting - burp the throttle and slam it hard into the next gear. His response for downshifting - burp the throttle and slam it hard into the next gear.
It's going to be hard convincing myself to shift with hate and discontent, without ever using the clutch other than to exit the pits.
On a synchro-based transmission, you would upshift by pressing the clutch in and shifting, and downshift by either just pressing the clutch and shifting (which can make the rear end squirrely and is hard on the engine), or clutch in under braking, and then blip the throttle with your heel to get the engine RPM's up before releasing the clutch, allowing a smooth shift.
So, I was curious as to the appropriate method for up/downshifting with a dog box, and couldn't get a clear answer. I found the transmission builder's number and gave him a call. His response for upshifting - burp the throttle and slam it hard into the next gear. His response for downshifting - burp the throttle and slam it hard into the next gear.
It's going to be hard convincing myself to shift with hate and discontent, without ever using the clutch other than to exit the pits.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
Obviously smoking a shit-ton of weed if something compelled her to drive that monstrosity.
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jeb6294
Well-known member
I always thought it was funny how people were so willing to plunk down so much $$$ for a Chevy Tahoe with a body kit on it just because they slapped the "Hummer" nameplate on it.
Well, I think I nearly barfed getting into the car I was so nervous about testing it, but it worked! It was still grinding going into gear, but another 1/2" on the pedal stop did the trick, and the pressure plate fingers are no longer overextending. Got some more of the wiring cleaned up, and got my switch labels on. Tonight I am going to try to pull the accusump assembly (oil accumulator tank) and reseat the valve, as its leaking some oil from the coupler threads.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
I'm practically a zip tie and wire loom consultant.
It actually looks like shit now, but I'm beyond the point of caring. It looked amazing before, but I had accidentally pinned some of the connectors wrong, because the diagram was showing a front view, not a rear view. So the wire lengths ended up being switched around, rather than tailored for each connector like they were before. The Holley wiring harness is actually a really strange length for a lot of the connections. I will probably by the weatherpak and molex pins and crimp tools that I need this winter and build a harness from scratch to really clean up all the routing.
It actually looks like shit now, but I'm beyond the point of caring. It looked amazing before, but I had accidentally pinned some of the connectors wrong, because the diagram was showing a front view, not a rear view. So the wire lengths ended up being switched around, rather than tailored for each connector like they were before. The Holley wiring harness is actually a really strange length for a lot of the connections. I will probably by the weatherpak and molex pins and crimp tools that I need this winter and build a harness from scratch to really clean up all the routing.
UGH. Last two "big" things to get car race ready - alignment, and windshield. #1 no problem, #2, turning into a problem. Binswanger is "having a hard time locating a supplier for it." I need it done FRIDAY. They use most of the same suppliers as Safelite. If they can't do it, then I'm stuck running lexan, which means another lengthy, time-consuming project to cram in that I really don't have time for, especially since you're required to have center supports if you use it, which is a mini-fab process in and of itself.
Of course, they're calling for two weeks straight of rain starting tonight, so I may be stuck bringing the slow car (Porsche) to next weekends event instead :'(
Of course, they're calling for two weeks straight of rain starting tonight, so I may be stuck bringing the slow car (Porsche) to next weekends event instead :'(
Road Guy
Well-known member
don't know what any of that means but it sounds like the suck!
If you remember when I was bitching about the clutch on my jeep popping out of a gear a few months ago - you were right on the synchronizers. a few weeks ago it developed an engine tick - I took it to the stealer-ship and the lifters needed replacement. covered under the powertrain, but took a few days, got it back, huge! leak shows up in driveway the day after I get it back, drive it back to the stealer-ship and the "clutch box"? was leaking they also noticed the synchronizers spelling? were bad & long story short, also getting a new transmission
not sure to be happy or sad, happy its covered under the powertrain but not wild about all these issues - god damn jeep doing away with the inline 6 I am afraid - its like they took the V6 from the grand Cherokee that always had problems... the stealership offered me $25K on trade in, but at this point I don't know if I want to take the gamble on getting a newer jeep that just may have the same issues in 2 years. I had been thinking about ditching it and getting a Tacoma (with apologies to the greatest generation) but the stealership doesn't sell Toyota's - don't know if I just got a lemon but giving serious though to parting ways with it - which sucks cause I really like this vehicle - guess I should be glad its all getting replaced for free. this is my 4th jeep and all the others when to 1/4 million miles before any real issues & then it was standard stuff like clutch or valve head cover, shit that just normally wears out after 15 years... This one is a 2015 with 65K miles
If you remember when I was bitching about the clutch on my jeep popping out of a gear a few months ago - you were right on the synchronizers. a few weeks ago it developed an engine tick - I took it to the stealer-ship and the lifters needed replacement. covered under the powertrain, but took a few days, got it back, huge! leak shows up in driveway the day after I get it back, drive it back to the stealer-ship and the "clutch box"? was leaking they also noticed the synchronizers spelling? were bad & long story short, also getting a new transmission
not sure to be happy or sad, happy its covered under the powertrain but not wild about all these issues - god damn jeep doing away with the inline 6 I am afraid - its like they took the V6 from the grand Cherokee that always had problems... the stealership offered me $25K on trade in, but at this point I don't know if I want to take the gamble on getting a newer jeep that just may have the same issues in 2 years. I had been thinking about ditching it and getting a Tacoma (with apologies to the greatest generation) but the stealership doesn't sell Toyota's - don't know if I just got a lemon but giving serious though to parting ways with it - which sucks cause I really like this vehicle - guess I should be glad its all getting replaced for free. this is my 4th jeep and all the others when to 1/4 million miles before any real issues & then it was standard stuff like clutch or valve head cover, shit that just normally wears out after 15 years... This one is a 2015 with 65K miles 
