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If I still lived in a shorter winter climate I would just buy one with the hard top and then buy an aftermarket soft top for spring and summer - they make some really nice frameless soft tops now  a days which make switching the tops much easier (before you had to remove the metal supports for the soft top)

The one bad thing about a soft top is theft. Since mine is the daily driver I have found myself lugging my lap top inside lunches and other places during the day.

& there are a lot of things that can go wrong with aftermarket stuff like lifts that I would recommend getting a base model and then adding what you want and making sure its done correctly - versus having to potentially fix what someone else put on.

& I spent 4 hours putting up my garage hoist this past weekend, I have to admit I think my previous method of just getting my kids to help me take the top off was easier and quicker. This thing was a PIA (see photos)  Also I was paranoid about leaving my $1500 top suspended from the ceiling so I added some paranoia tie down straps just "because"  - only two are shown but I did add a 4th..

critique away engineers!

Jeep Lift.jpg

 
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^Cool.

Ble, my advice to you once again, is to get what you want and don't start cheaping out because your local dealer doesn't have what you want, etc. You're spending so much anyway that it really doesn't make that much difference on the monthly payment to spend a little more and get what you want, vs. regretting it later on.

I have been leaning toward a Tacoma myself, but I went down to the dealer a couple weeks ago and the Tacomas that were in the mid $30s a few months ago are now all over $40k.  WTF!!!!

 
The thing with Jeeps is that they have a huge aftermarket following and are really easy to work on. Because of that, focus on finding the base model that has the critical items you want (engine, transmission, color). If you want a Rubicon, join an owners forum and buy take-off parts from someone who upgraded theirs. If you're halfway decent with a wrench, you can even install them yourself.

Half of my suspension parts are take-offs from a ZL1 and I did the bulk of the install. Afterwards I would take it to a shop for an alignment and spot check. The only parts I had the shop install were things that I really couldn't do (brakes, fuel pump, dyno tune, and paint/powdercoating).

 
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Two important things to keep in mind when buying a Jeep: 1. Don't get it with any accessories on it from the dealer, and 2)DON'T GET ANY ACCESSORIES ON IT FROM THE DEALER!!!

It was a long time ago, but when I was shopping for my Jeep, I checked one out at a dealer up towards Dayton.  They had one in the showroom that was just like the one I eventually bought except that the one in the showroom was loaded with "stuff".  Lights and bars and bumpers and....  I forget what the add-ons ended up being, but I seem to remember it being over $10k.  Every single thing they had added, I could buy myself for less money and install pretty easily (Jeeps are very easy to work on).

I got an online price from the dealer up in Dayton that was pretty good.  I took that to my local dealer and told them, I'd rather not drive up there to get my Jeep so if they could meet it, I would get it there instead.  Salesman went to "talk to his manager" for a minute and came back with the deal.

 
If you're ever bored (and have lots of time on your hands) go check out Quadratec and see how much stuff is out there.  Just about anything you would ever want for your Jeep...you can actually build a Jeep from scratch out of their catalog if you really wanted to.

If you're worried about theft, they make lock boxes that fit between the back seat and rear tailgate.  Certainly not impregnable, but it basically gives you a locked trunk.

 
Honestly, I'd probably not be doing a lot of mods right away, but it's great that there is such a large amount of stuff that I can do. I'm getting the salesman I test drove with to look for what I want and I'm going to see what he comes back with. There's a high volume dealer just outside of DC that has very good deals, so if they can't get close here locally I'll drive up there if need be.

 
I got an online price from the dealer up in Dayton that was pretty good.  I took that to my local dealer and told them, I'd rather not drive up there to get my Jeep so if they could meet it, I would get it there instead.  Salesman went to "talk to his manager" for a minute and came back with the deal.
That's what I did for my last car purchase.  Got online quotes from all dealers in a 2 hr dr radius then went to one of the closest and did what you did.  They run a we'll match a lower quote and take an extra $500 off.   

 
^Same here for the last couple of purchases.  Fun thing is with most of the dealers putting their inventory on-line, I pretty much knew which lot my truck was sitting on.  The question was which dealer was going to make a swap to be able to sell it to me.

 
I did manage to get the Porsche finished at 9PM on Thursday for my race on Friday.  It was another engine swap (that I put new rod bearings in), coupled with building a new exhaust from scratch.  It was several weeks of non-stop work to make it happen, and with the NC heat/rain/humidity, it was one of the most physically and mentally exhausting projects I've dealt with in a long time.  So much so, I had a mini panic attack trying to get the exhaust work done.  

It was pouring raining at Charlotte Motor Speedway, and the engine ran like shit the first two sessions.  Misfires and wouldn't rev.  Ran through all the scenarios as to why it wouldn't work, and then realized that I had never reconnected the O2 sensor.  I didn't remotely think it would still be hanging under the car after about 40 miles of racing, but sure enough, there it was, wedged in the Y-pipe.  Screwed it back in before my third run, and the car ran like new.  I had also made some front sway bar adjustments to correct some understeer, and the the car handled like it was on rails.  Ended up beating my two buddies with much higher HP cars, and I own the class record for at least a year since it was the new course configuration.  If I can make the GA race in November, I've got a chance at winning three consecutive championships, which would be a fitting end for running full seasons in this car.

 
So I'm currently negotiating via text with the Jeep salesman from my test drive on a Wrangler he found for me at a different dealer. So far I've got him down to an OTD price of about 3.5% below sticker (includes taxes, tags, etc.). I'm still planning to see how much lower I can get him to go and see if he'll add throw in any options. Wish me luck!

 
Back to looking at the SI.  No Type R for me.  Talked to the really good local dealer.  He said nobody, them included, will sell one for less than $10K over sticker, and one of the nearby places just sold one for $15K over sticker.  I am not spending nearly $50K on a Honda Civic when I own two race cars.  

 
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