Question for all you Civils out there

[Dexman PE]

Forgot to ask the obvious question: What's going on at the other end of the driveway? Is your driveway straight from the garage to the sidewalk/curb/street, or is it L shaped? I'd be curious to see what's going on at the other end.

 

[MechGuy]

Forgot to ask the obvious question: What's going on at the other end of the driveway? Is your driveway straight from the garage to the sidewalk/curb/street, or is it L shaped? I'd be curious to see what's going on at the other end.

OK that sounds really dirty to me for some reason ...

Driveway slopes straight down into the street. I don't think I can get my wife to take another picture while I'm at work... she's apt to ask what I'm doing here!

 

[cement]

soil would wash away, and the non-shrink grout is self compacting.

 

[Road Guy]

take a piece of steel, rod, stick, landscape nail, etc and see how deep you can push it into the ground in between the cracks, if it goes in easily then you probably have compaction / erosion issues....

 

[Chucktown PE]

I think the valuable lesson to take away from this thread is that you should never ever ask 7200 engineers for their opinion on something you could fix with a bag of quickrete. We've had solutions ranging from filling the crack with sand to jackhammering up the damn driveway, undercutting the subgrade, installing 57 stone, and replacing with an 8" thick slab complete with foundation beams, piles, and #11 bars at 4" oc.

 

[FLBuff PE]

Nowhere in this thread did MechGuy say co$t was to be considered.

 

[Dexman PE]

Nowhere in this thread did MechGuy say co$t was to be considered.

Which is why the geotechs chimed in with the "Cadillac" solutions...

 

[MechGuy]

Nowhere in this thread did MechGuy say co$t was to be considered.

Did I mention that I'm a poor lowly consultant with 3 kids? What I spend in diapers and formula this week will probably be more than what I'll spend on fixing this gap!

But I do love all the different solutions ... thanks guys!

Pictures with the "fixed" gap will be forthcoming... probably get around to it on Saturday!

 

[FLBuff PE]

Nowhere in this thread did MechGuy say co$t was to be considered.

Which is why the geotechs chimed in with the "Cadillac" solutions...

I consider myself one of the "geotech guys" that was commenting, but nowhere did I give a "Cadillac" solution.

 

[Chucktown PE]

Mechguy, your house will probably cave in on itself if you don't remove the existing slab, undercut the subgrade to a depth of 2 feet, add the 57 stone, install 12" diameter auguer cast piles down to bedrock at 48" o.c., install a 12" thick pile cap with #11 bars at 12" oc each way, each face, then top with 8" thick 5000 psi driveway slab with 4x4 welded wire fabric. Just covering my liability.

 

[Dexman PE]

Mechguy, your house will probably cave in on itself if you don't remove the existing slab, undercut the subgrade to a depth of 2 feet, add the 57 stone, install 12" diameter auguer cast piles down to bedrock at 48" o.c., install a 12" thick pile cap with #11 bars at 12" oc each way, each face, then top with 8" thick 5000 psi driveway slab with 4x4 welded wire fabric. Just covering my liability.

I'd stamp that, but only after the Final Office Review is complete. Have you prepared the specifications manual for this?

 

[Chucktown PE]

Mechguy, your house will probably cave in on itself if you don't remove the existing slab, undercut the subgrade to a depth of 2 feet, add the 57 stone, install 12" diameter auguer cast piles down to bedrock at 48" o.c., install a 12" thick pile cap with #11 bars at 12" oc each way, each face, then top with 8" thick 5000 psi driveway slab with 4x4 welded wire fabric. Just covering my liability.

I'd stamp that, but only after the Final Office Review is complete. Have you prepared the specifications manual for this?

It's a big one. I've got a 30 page cast in place concrete spec, a 40 page auger cast pile spec, a 20 page pile testing spec, a 10 page reinforcing steel spec, a 10 page concrete formwork spec, and a 20 page earthwork spec. Plus I have about 200 pages of front end documents. Let me know your address and I'll FedEx you a copy but I'll need a project number to charge to.

 

[Dexman PE]

Mechguy, your house will probably cave in on itself if you don't remove the existing slab, undercut the subgrade to a depth of 2 feet, add the 57 stone, install 12" diameter auguer cast piles down to bedrock at 48" o.c., install a 12" thick pile cap with #11 bars at 12" oc each way, each face, then top with 8" thick 5000 psi driveway slab with 4x4 welded wire fabric. Just covering my liability.

I'd stamp that, but only after the Final Office Review is complete. Have you prepared the specifications manual for this?

It's a big one. I've got a 30 page cast in place concrete spec, a 40 page auger cast pile spec, a 20 page pile testing spec, a 10 page reinforcing steel spec, a 10 page concrete formwork spec, and a 20 page earthwork spec. Plus I have about 200 pages of front end documents. Let me know your address and I'll FedEx you a copy but I'll need a project number to charge to.

Just direct bill the client.

 

[Chucktown PE]

Mechguy, you're going to owe me and Dexman about $32,000 for "consulting fees". The good news is that we saved you approximately $146,000 in foundation repair costs. So really this is a net gain for you. Construction should cost no more than $210,000.

 

[Dexman PE]

Mechguy, you're going to owe me and Dexman about $32,000 for "consulting fees". The good news is that we saved you approximately $146,000 in foundation repair costs. So really this is a net gain for you. Construction should cost no more than $210,000.

For an additional $16K, I could perform the CM for this. If we start the bidding process on Friday, we could have the work done by mid May.

 

[MechGuy]

Mechguy, you're going to owe me and Dexman about $32,000 for "consulting fees". The good news is that we saved you approximately $146,000 in foundation repair costs. So really this is a net gain for you. Construction should cost no more than $210,000.

The ROM from my contracting officer on this type of work is somewhere between $50-$100... so I'm going to have to let the KO do the negotiations with you. Good luck winning the project! I forgot to mention my KO uses a "lowest-cost, technically acceptable" method, as opposed to "best value."

 

[Fluvial]

I seriously cannot believe y'all left out approximately 32.6 linear feet of underdrain, including 8.4 yards of washed gravel, 25 linear feet of perforated drain pipe, 29 yards of filter cloth and one small animal guard to put in the daylight end.

 

[Chucktown PE]

and one small animal guard to put in the daylight end.

Yuck, why you gotta be so damn perverted on here all the time?

 

[Dexman PE]

Dammit, now the Water Resource people are here...

Looks like MechGuy will need to implement a Bond Program in order for these improvements to occur.

 

[Fluvial]

Chuck: I dunno, something about calculating all that head in the pipe ....