Basement 2.0

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but can you have multiple lines into the one GFCI Breaker?
It depends. What are the line types feeding into the GFCI breaker (e.g. line, neutral, gnd)? Essentially the answer is yes.

 
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I'm no electrician but if I understand it correctly, the GFCI just offers ground fault protection in addition to limiting current load.  Wouldn't it be the same as having multiple lines connected to a standard breaker?  The total load through is still limited to the breaker size and all circuits would be GFCI protected and the breaker would trip if there is a fault on any of the branches.

Similar to wiring a single GFCI outlet before other outlets.  The downstream outlets are protected by the upstream GFCI.  That is acceptable.

 
The black wires are tied into the GFCI Breaker (via a wire nut inside the breaker, with a pig tail wire going to the actual breaker) - the white wires are all individually wired to the box (where the white wires normally go)

 
^ perhaps a photo would help. But as MA pointed out, it should be wired no differently than a standard CB. The only difference is that there is an added neutral element to help provide additional ground fault protection rather than relying on the full load of the breaker (i.e. 15A, 20A, etc.).

A GFCI will turn the circuit off (interrupt) when there is a current leak.  The GFCI monitors the current going to the load (black or “hot” wire) and compares it to the current coming from the load (white, “common” wire).  If there is any difference between the two, the GFCI will “interrupt” or turn the circuit off.

 
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Pretty sure you're fine.  It's a bit unusual to have a wire nut inside the breaker panel, but it's done all the time inside J-boxes.  I did a little googling of wire nuts in breaker panels and it appears to be allowed.

 
That's my understanding ^ as well. The only thing I know of as a no-no would be if he tried to connect the two blacks into the terminal on the CB itself, or two whites into one neutral terminal (i.e. two wires under one screw). Like MP said, lines are wire-nutted together in junction boxes all the time. 

But I'm no electrician....

 
ok - cool the wire nut inside the electrical panel is what threw me for a loop. Ill just close the thing up and hopefully forgettaboutit......

 
so had my final inspection on the basement Friday - FAILED! LOL I guess I didn't read the large print note on my permit that said all the outlets have to be "tamper resistant /  child proof" major PIA to rewire them - but my fault...  They did give me a temporary CO so I can move furniture down there , which is what I needed..  if its the current code they shouldn't even sell the "non child proof ones" oh well...

On a positive note, this area of the Country doesn't use the standard molding for windows, instead they finish the sheetrock and then put a nice custom made window sill on the bottom (if that's what its called) - I had never done much with a router but I bought a cheap one and made 4 of these for the 4 windows in the basement, I burned through some cheaper wood until I got the hang of it, the glare from the sun makes these hard to see but I though they turned out pretty cool - wife was worried I would lose a finger or two in the process (still have all 9! ;)  )

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"all the outlets have to be "tamper resistant /  child proof"

who knew?

 
"all the outlets have to be "tamper resistant /  child proof"

who knew?
When I googled, it, I came across some article saying that some study indicated "100% of children tested" were able to remove those plastic outlet covers.  I'm calling total bullshit, because I've been going to the gym for 2 1/2 years, and I can't get half those f*ckers off without a screwdriver.  There's no way in hell little three year old Suzy-Lue got that thing off with her hair clip.

 
They must have kid tested the new covers which are relatively easy to get off. The old fashioned ones are the best ones, but also the most annoying since it's hard for adults to get them off also.

 
The tamper resistant outlets have a layer of plastic behind the prongs and when you place pressure on both or all the "holes" it releases the plastic so you can plug in your lamp/ tv/ etc...

Can't see that it's a totally flawless setup as it seems like they are fairly flimsy. I had ironically bought a couple without knowing until I installed them..

I know this is how the code works for new construction but seems kind of stupid since the rest of the house doesn't have them- guess I should be glad they are not requiring all of them in the whole house to be replaced - can see a government applying that logic..

 
Our new house back in Denver had those stupid outlets throughout the house.  Most of them worked fine, but there were a few where the plastic "shield" wouldn't move rendering the outlet worthless.

 
It wouldn't have saved my dumb ass in 6th grade batteries and light bulbs. I bent a piece of insulated wire into a horseshoe shape, and lowered it into a floor outlet in the school to see what would happen. I was "smart" enough to use a pair of pliers with rubberized grips, and to sort of drop it into the outlet rather than inserting it. I think that if it had been a child proof outlet, I would have figured that out and maybe just pushed the horseshoe wire a little harder and it still would have gone in.

(the result was a miniature explosion that shot all the grit in the floor outlet up into the air (and into my eyes), much to the delight of my "friends" who were involved)

 
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