wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
Anybody have battery recommendations? Does brand really matter as long as you buy one with a 2 or 3 year warranty and don't have a huge stereo system?
The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
- Start date
Help Support Professional Engineer & PE Exam Forum:
you do kind of "get what you pay for". For a daily driver I'd stay away from the lowest price ones at Walmart. I just bought one from a local Interstate battery store for ~100. The qualifier is the cold-cranking-amps rating. I wouldn't get anything less than ~600 cca especially in the colder climates. Batteries (like tires) are pretty much made by the same big companies and then they get re-branded. Hope that helps.
Flyer_PE
Jr. PE / Sr. Company Pilot
I haven't gone battery shopping in a while but agree with MA on the CCA rating. I always go for the highest CCA rating that will fit in the vehicle.
One little note on ratings though. For a while, some of the manufacturers were putting CA ratings rather than CCA. The difference is that the testing for the CA rating was done at a much higher temperature which would give a much higher amperage. I haven't noticed it for a while so the practice may have been canned.
One little note on ratings though. For a while, some of the manufacturers were putting CA ratings rather than CCA. The difference is that the testing for the CA rating was done at a much higher temperature which would give a much higher amperage. I haven't noticed it for a while so the practice may have been canned.
wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
I wasn't planning on cheaping out. I was planning on spending $100 plus for a decent battery. I was talking more about sprinting for an Optima Red or Yellow top battery. Is it worth the extra $50+ for those unless I'm driving something in addition to the car (i.e., a big stereo)? I kinda got screwed last time I replaced the battery. I took my car in for a 60,000 mile tune up. I knew the battery was shot, suspected my brake pads were completely worn and wanted the belts and other consumables checked. The shop I took it to only charged me about $50 for diagnostics, $30 for new belts, and $75 for a new battery and told me my brake pads were fine. But since I had them replace the battery, I really didn't get a choice in what brand I got. I ended up with an Exide cheapy that is now dead again. Other than that, the shop earned my future business by not replacing everything possible and charging me $1000+.
Flyer_PE
Jr. PE / Sr. Company Pilot
I wouldn't spend too much north of $100 for a car battery. The manufacturer of that Exide battery may not have been the problem. The way batteries are manufactured, they aren't finished forming before they are put on the shelf. Once the electrolyte is dumped in them, they go to about 80% charge. They need some more charging over the course of the first few weeks/months of ownership. If they sit on the shelf too long before putting them in service, the plates will begin to sulfate which will dramatically shorten the life of the battery. The best defense is to buy a reputable brand from somewhere that sells a crap-load of batteries. It's the best chance of getting one that hasn't spent too long sitting on the shelf.
jeb6294
Well-known member
I haven't worried about Optima batteries for a while now after I got rid of the Jeep, but whenever they come up on any of the "car" boards I'm on the general opinion is to avoid them because quality has gone down the tubes.
When the battery in the Ram started to go south, I did quite a bit of looking for the best battery to get. I forget where I saw it, but I remember reading that the Sear Diehard batteries were great...if you could find one. With Sears downsizing, they got rid of a lot of their automotive departments. I did a search and found a Sears on my way up to Dayton that still had an auto shop so I was able to pick one up and swap it out in the parking lot.
When the battery in the Ram started to go south, I did quite a bit of looking for the best battery to get. I forget where I saw it, but I remember reading that the Sear Diehard batteries were great...if you could find one. With Sears downsizing, they got rid of a lot of their automotive departments. I did a search and found a Sears on my way up to Dayton that still had an auto shop so I was able to pick one up and swap it out in the parking lot.
Of course Sears doesn't make their own batteries. A quick google search said they're either made by Exide or Johnson Controls. Also found this summary that might be useful.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/04/beware-the-best-and-worst-replacement-car-batteries-can-be-from-the-same-brand/index.htm
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/04/beware-the-best-and-worst-replacement-car-batteries-can-be-from-the-same-brand/index.htm
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jeb6294
Well-known member
You big tease. Give us a link to Consumer Reports telling us that batteries from the same brand can be good or bad, but you can't see their recommendations without being a member.
I saw something that said the Diehards were rebadged Odyssey batteries. Either way, I'm hoping mine will last a bit longer because the diesel takes 2.
I saw something that said the Diehards were rebadged Odyssey batteries. Either way, I'm hoping mine will last a bit longer because the diesel takes 2.
matt267 PE
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(I plan on testing my car battery tomorrow morning. It's going to be single digits out in the morning.)
wilheldp_PE
PE, LEED AP, SPAM KING
Yeah, I heard the same thing about Die Hards (i.e., they are made by multiple different manufacturers with varying levels of quality). The Optima batteries seem to have good reviews, but I have also noticed that a lot of newer reviews tend to include a lot of DOA batteries. I'm not sure what kind of Exide battery I have now, but I'm sure it was on the cheaper end of their scale. I guess I'll just go with the 3-year warranty battery at Auto Zone or NAPA if there really isn't a stand-out leader in batteries. There is a stand-alone Interstate battery place near my house. Anybody have experience with them?
Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
Still rocking the factory battery, although I'm sure it will need to be replaced soon.
We just grabbed the cheapest thing we could find when we replaced the one in Mrs Dex's Jeep
We just grabbed the cheapest thing we could find when we replaced the one in Mrs Dex's Jeep
Road Guy
Well-known member
also need your automotive prayers (to whomever you pray to) as of today my 16.5 year old is officially on my insurance 
wasn't as bad as I thought, only $258 / 6 months (apparently having a 4.0 GPA helps in that department) He doesn't have his own vehicle yet, was going to give him a month of running errands to build some confidence..
Not sure why but I just don't feel he is "ready' he is a much better kid than I was at his age, just typical parent paranoia?
wasn't as bad as I thought, only $258 / 6 months (apparently having a 4.0 GPA helps in that department) He doesn't have his own vehicle yet, was going to give him a month of running errands to build some confidence..
Not sure why but I just don't feel he is "ready' he is a much better kid than I was at his age, just typical parent paranoia?
As said previously, I just bought a new battery at the local Interstate store. I followed the guys recommnedations and got one with 600+ cca for ~$125. FWIW, I had some corrosion on the positive terminal. For $8 I bought a kit that came with two small spray cans (cleaner and protectant) and a battery terminal brush. I used the cleaner and used some sandpaper on my cable connector and it worked great. The protector puts a bright red film over the completed connection as a corrosion inhibitor. I seemed to work well. So far so good.
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MetsFan
Well-known member
I bought a battery at Advance Auto Parts with a coupon last month for $130. BMW wanted $240 for the BMW branded one. I haven't put it in yet though but other people have had good luck with them. I just have to figure out how to register the battery. I have the PC to OBD cable, but it's a mess of software I have to figure out.
Regarding consumer reports, do a google search for: consumer reports library login. If you have a library card, you should be able to get in too.
Regarding consumer reports, do a google search for: consumer reports library login. If you have a library card, you should be able to get in too.
If you can't find a Sears with Die Hard batteries, try K-mart (if you still have any of those around either).
Register the battery....I never heard of such a thing. A quick search found that ther are tons of opinions on this BMW requirement. The vast majority say BMW wants $150 on top of hte battery cost to register. Most of the threads said the registration is BS.
You learn somehting new everyday.
