Water heater suggestions?

[Master slacker]

So, the ole water we have is almost 20 years old. It's not leaking or showing signs of failure, but I'm sure that at some point, it will fail. If it fails by leaking, we're screwed as there is no pan, no auto-shutoff valve, and 80 year old hard wood floors beneath it. The short of the long is that I'm looking for a replacement and the only affordable ones I see from Lowe's and Sears have poor reports according to Consumer Affairs.

I was thinking of hooking up a garden hose to the drain just in case it decides to blow we can drain it to the tub quickly. But the damn drain, or at least what I think is the drain, is very foreign looking to me. It's a Ruud RP30B-34 with no manual anywhere.

Anywho, does anyone have a recommendation for an affordable, but not cheap, water heater?

 

[Master slacker]

Ok, the drain valve is a cone valve. I guess they're cheap. Grr...

 

[humner]

Two things about draining a water heater. My first recommendation is if you can, put a short piece of garden hose or old washing machine hose on it. I have found that sometimes these water heater drains don't shut off completely and you end up dripping water everywhere. With the short hose, you can tape it to the high end of water heater. If when you start trying to drain it, it does not drain, sediment has settled in the bottom. You may need to blow air into the hose to clear the sediment. As far as what to buy. Here is a decent web site. http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHR...ter-heater.html

 

[envirotex]

My resident general contractor says go tankless. If you're not going to do that then, any hot water heater from Home Depot or Lowe's or anywhere else is about the same...When we replaced ours about a year ago, we added a circulator pump to our system, so the water in our shower would heat up faster, and that is awesome.

GC also says that if you're having a plumber replace it for you most likely he will want to sell you a hot water heater, so make sure that the plumber you call is willing to let you buy your own. He also said that it's a pretty easy do-it-yourself job, but it they are very heavy so you'll probably need a helper (or two if it's in attic space) if you go that route...

 

[Dexman PE PMP]

I agree that water heater replacements are a fairly easy DIY project and the plumbers typically overcharge for their labor. I also agree that basically anything on the shelf at Home Depot/Lowes/Sears is all basically the same thing. You won't ever see anything as far as "Good" reports simply because no one cares what it is as long as it works, then will fly off the handle when it breaks.

 

[Master slacker]

When pilot lights go out and I have to rely on a striker found on most gas grills for relighting, I get upset. I have one of those on my potato gun and it's not the most reliable.

 

[roadwreck]

my recommendation

 

[knight1fox3]

my recommendation

LOL!!! :Locolaugh:

 

[csb]

When pilot lights go out and I have to rely on a striker found on most gas grills for relighting, I get upset. I have one of those on my potato gun and it's not the most reliable.

You need a better potato gun

 

[Supe]

At least he gets a striker. I'd rather have one of those than to try and find stick matches. Last time I had to relight it, I had a tealight candle taped with Scotch tape to a metal ruler because it was all I could find.

 

[MA_PE]

I got a good deal on a Bradford-White HWH. My BIL works for a plumbing supply house. It comes with a factory 10 year warranty. If it fails within 10 years they replace it and guarentee the replacement for the remainder of the original 10 year warranty. We had one that lasted ~9 1/2 years, so got a new one (only 6 months warranty but heck the first went for ~10 years). I understand the water in our area is tough, so one can only realistically expect ~10 years out of a typical HWH. Local plumber came and installed the one I purchased np. HE aid he could take the old one away for ~$40 fee but also told me the town would come and get it for $15 (I'd just have to look at it in front of the house for a couple of days untuil the town came and got it).

Pilot is controlled by a PC board and is electric start, no more matches/lighters. Works fine for me.

 

[envirotex]

Pilot is controlled by a PC board and is electric start, no more matches/lighters. Works fine for me.

Our new one has this feature, also. I think most new HWHs have this...seems a little more safe than an open gas valve and a tea light candle on a stick...

:blowup:

 

[snickerd3]

ours is starting to show its cheapness...it needs to get replaced...our water is REALLY hard. I think the test kit said like 23 GPG for when we put in the new softner. It is a DIY project but neither of us wants to deal with having to drag the old one out and carry the new one down the stairs.

 

[humner]

Pilot is controlled by a PC board and is electric start, no more matches/lighters. Works fine for me.

Our new one has this feature, also. I think most new HWHs have this...seems a little more safe than an open gas valve and a tea light candle on a stick...

:blowup:

the active pilot light does help keep condensation from building up on tank though

 

[mudpuppy]

Newer water heaters have flame arresters at the bottom, which keeps you from being able to reach the innards. So you can't light them with a match any more. Apparently too many people blew up their houses by storing gasoline and other volatiles near their water heater. The fumes reached the pilot light and BOOM!