# Home Improvement/Repair Questions



## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

Did a little searching to see if a thread like this existed. Didn't find anything recent though and most were very application specific. This could be a good thread to post more general questions.

And to start it off, calling all those with plumbing experience. The main sewer drainage pipe in our basement seems to leak but only when we have a heavy rain. And it only leaks from the seals/collars. I tried re-caulking the seals and tightening and collar fasteners but it doesn't seem to help. But I'm also confused as to why it ONLY leaks during a heavy rainfall and not for any other drainage activities (i.e. dishwasher, clothes washer, showers, etc.). And it doesn't really leak to where there's a constant flow, it's very gradual and I can see that some of the moisture does follow the short slope toward the floor drain near the furnace. So I guess that's good but just curious if I need to be concerned about this or should try something to rectify the issue.


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## snickerd3 (Aug 19, 2014)

are you on city sewer or septic


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## snickerd3 (Aug 19, 2014)

city might have combined storm/sewer lines in your area which puts just enough pressure on your pipes.

Septic - you might have a clog in the field


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

Definitely city sewer.


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

Is that a clean out facing the wall?

I was thinking the same thing as snick. And the city sewer doesn't even have to be a combined system. It could have been designed as a sanitary system but receives lots of inflow and infiltration. That combined with a partial blockage of the city sewer, and now you have water backed up in your pipe.

I see you have a sink next to the rubber fittings. Is the leak below or above the drain in the sink?


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## blybrook PE (Aug 19, 2014)

One quick thing you can do is to run a snake from your cleanout (provided you have access) out to the main. Tree roots are notorious for breaking thru the house run and causing backups.

If the snake hits a major restriction, hire someone to power auger thru or plan to replace that line.

If there are no restrictions/issues then its an issue with the main in the street.

Good luck.


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## snickerd3 (Aug 19, 2014)

^ several family members have had to do that.

a lot of times those "flushable" wipes and girl hygiene products get stuck too. if there are roots in the way that makes the problem worse


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

matt267 said:


> Is that a clean out facing the wall?
> 
> I was thinking the same thing as snick. And the city sewer doesn't even have to be a combined system. It could have been designed as a sanitary system but receives lots of inflow and infiltration. That combined with a partial blockage of the city sewer, and now you have water backed up in your pipe.
> 
> I see you have a sink next to the rubber fittings. Is the leak below or above the drain in the sink?


Ha ha, ya I was waiting for someone to comment on that. We have a partially finished basement which you can tell the previous owners did after the fact. I was considering making a small access door so that I can get at it from the other side. Just painted drywall on the other side. As for the leaks, I updated the photo to show where I have found moisture. Some are above the utility sink and some are below, so both I guess. You can see the one coupling (highest) that I used the purple PVC joint sealant on and then used silicon to seal it. I don't find much leaking from that point anymore.



blybrook PE said:


> One quick thing you can do is to run a snake from your cleanout (provided you have access) out to the main. Tree roots are notorious for breaking thru the house run and causing backups.
> 
> If the snake hits a major restriction, hire someone to power auger thru or plan to replace that line.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestion. When you say "out to the main", where does that access occur?


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

It looks like PVC going into the ground. If It's new construction, the connection to the street is also PVC. IMO, root intrusion into PVC is rear.


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> When you say "out to the main", where does that access occur?


behind your drywall.

You might also have a clean out somewhere else along your sewerline.


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## blybrook PE (Aug 19, 2014)

K1F3, the access that is facing the wall is your main cleanout. You might be able to access from the floor drain too. Run the snake all the way out to the street.

Even PVC can get restricted by roots. Or it doesn't get buried deep enough and gets crushed by driving over da yard.


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

PVC pipe attached with PVC cement should not leak. The PVC cement fuses the PVC to itself. Because this only happens during heavy rain, is it possible that you have a small roof leak where the main stack exits the roof? I had this happen to me when we first bought my house. The rubber boot around the vent was leaking and the water followed the pipe all the way down the the basement. You might be seeing the small about of water where is pools up on the lips of the seams.


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

Oh ok. I know where the access is since it's in a terrible position. I just wasn't sure how I would know I was out to the street with whatever snake I could rent. How far would that be? Seems like there would be too many turns/bends to get the snake through. :dunno:

Thanks for the replies thus far.


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

matt267 said:


> PVC pipe attached with PVC cement should not leak. The PVC cement fuses the PVC to itself. Because this only happens during heavy rain, is it possible that you have a small roof leak where the main stack exits the roof? I had this happen to me when we first bought my house. The rubber boot around the vent was leaking and the water followed the pipe all the way down the the basement. You might be seeing the small about of water where is pools up on the lips of the seams.


If that's the case (and it very well could be), any I have yet to see any condensation chasing down the pipe. But it may be so little that it dries up before I have a chance to see it. Yet the pool around the seals is still present. This particular storm came through late last night so I didn't get a chance to look at things until the morning. I'm going to have to remember to check on that when we have another storm during the day. Thanks.


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> Oh ok. I know where the access is since it's in a terrible position. I just wasn't sure how I would know I was out to the street with whatever snake I could rent. How far would that be? Seems like there would be too many turns/bends to get the snake through. :dunno:
> 
> Thanks for the replies thus far.


Once in your sewer line, below your basement floor, none of the bends should be greater than 45 deg. It "should" be a relatively straight shot from the point in your pic to the street. But I guess there is always an exception.

And no I'm not a plumber, I'm just speaking on personal experience from my own house and my work here in reviewing city sewer issues.

Edit:

Also, if you're seeing water on the pipe above the utility sink, that may indicate that it is NOT the city sewer backing up or even a blockage in your line under the slab. If the city sewer was backing up, I would think that you would see wastewater, or at least have some odors/evidence, in the sink before the seam above the sink was to leak.

Edit 2:

Do you have any floor drains in the basement? Or a toilet or shower? 

(Sorry for all the reply/edits. I just get excited about wastewater)


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

matt267 said:


> Edit:
> 
> Also, if you're seeing water on the pipe above the utility sink, that may indicate that it is NOT the city sewer backing up or even a blockage in your line under the slab. If the city sewer was backing up, I would think that you would see wastewater, or at least have some odors/evidence, in the sink before the seam above the sink was to leak.


Well again I appreciate the replies from everyone. And that's what I was thinking about eh city sewer backing up. Wouldn't it also be backing up from my floor drain where the furnace discharge is if this were the case?


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## Road Guy (Aug 19, 2014)

I don't know much about plumbing, I usually just change parts until something works..

Do you have some sort of air intake pipe on the roof that is maybe taking in to much water?

I had a mystery leak in the basement at old house that I swore only happened when the washing machine was running, I was close to busting up tile in laundry room until I knocked a picture of a wall in the kitchen (above the leak in the basement but below the laundry room) &amp; discovered that someone!!! had driven a picture nail through the sheetrock and into the PVC pipe,, causing an arbitraty leak down below..

so that F'n water can do some crazy shit and cause some weird problems..


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> Well again I appreciate the replies from everyone. And that's what I was thinking about eh city sewer backing up. Wouldn't it also be backing up from my floor drain where the furnace discharge is if this were the case?


I forgot you mentioned the floor drain for the furnace. Yeah, it doesn't sound like a city sewer issue.

Do your rain gutters somehow tie into your sewer line?


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## ventilator (Aug 19, 2014)

Do you have an outside clean out tap on your pipe to the sewer? I did plumbing but it was in FL so basements are nothing I ever had to deal with. We always had a clean out T on the outside of the house, it was a tee fitting with a screw on top just outside the wall. This made for easy access and you could see how well everything was draining (turn on a couple of sinks/tubs and watch for flow). Doesn't sound like your problem if nothing happens with the washing machine but if it were the sewer backing up I would expect you to be getting an odor in your basement.


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## NJmike PE (Aug 19, 2014)

blybrook PE said:


> One quick thing you can do is to run a snake from your cleanout (provided you have access) out to the main. Tree roots are notorious for breaking thru the house run and causing backups.
> 
> If the snake hits a major restriction, hire someone to power auger thru or plan to replace that line.
> 
> ...


this. My gut reaction to this was taht something outside was broken, partially clogged. could be your service line to the main, could be the main is broken and taking on runoff. most newer san sewers are supposed to have an infiltration shield at the manhole rim access (don't get over excited here with the terminology Matt). sewers could be backing up. ask your neighbors if they have a similar problem. if it's a flat pipe and taking runoff from a storm this it could reach capacity real quick, causing it to back up into homes.


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## NJmike PE (Aug 19, 2014)

matt267 said:


> knight1fox3 said:
> 
> 
> > Well again I appreciate the replies from everyone. And that's what I was thinking about eh city sewer backing up. Wouldn't it also be backing up from my floor drain where the furnace discharge is if this were the case?
> ...


not necessarily. need to know for sure where that drain is tied to. could be tied to the storm sewer or footing drains in which case it would not back up


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

NJmike PE said:


> matt267 said:
> 
> 
> > knight1fox3 said:
> ...


It could be.

But fox's picture indicated past water on a seam above the utility sink drain. A sewer back up would get into the sink, if the water was backing up that high.


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## NJmike PE (Aug 19, 2014)

matt267 said:


> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> > matt267 said:
> ...


not what I meant. I was referring to the floor drain for the furnace. That could be tied to the storm sewer or footing drains. That would explain why the floor drain doesn't flood first. It is the lowest elevation and if tied to the san sewer it would back up with the main stack in the house


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## matt267 PE (Aug 19, 2014)

I understood you were referencing the furnace floor drain possibly being tied somewhere else. I'm not sure what his state requirements are for that, so it might be possible. (Personally, I would never want a drain in my house that was connected to a storm sewer unless there was a really good check valve installed on my property.)

I'm still not convinced it's a city sewer issue though.

We should all get together at fox's house and discuss this over a few beers. Get a group of engineers and wannabes together and we'll complicate the shit of this problem.


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## blybrook PE (Aug 19, 2014)

Someone has to lean in the shovel and supervise...


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

LOL! Wisco EB.com meet-up!!! There's always good beer at my house.

I don't _think _any of the gutters discharge into our sewer line. (2) of them at the back of the house go directly into the ground with some corrugated black tubing. But one of them I can see coming out of a small hill at the end of our backyard. I'm guessing those are the gutter lines. I have one other at the front that does the same but have no idea where it would run. Perhaps that is tied in some how. Would that be enough water to cause a back-up though? Maybe....

I'm still intrigued by water coming in through one of the vents or something but not enough for to see it after a few hours. Maybe some loose flashing or something.



ventilator said:


> Do you have an outside clean out tap on your pipe to the sewer?
> 
> Doesn't sound like your problem if nothing happens with the washing machine but if it were the sewer backing up I would expect you to be getting an odor in your basement.


I think we established that I do it's just in a really bad spot. Unless you're talking about another location. And really no odors that I can detect.


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## Lumber Jim (Aug 19, 2014)

matt267 said:


> ...Because this only happens during heavy rain, is it possible that you have a small roof leak where the main stack exits the roof? I had this happen to me when we first bought my house. The rubber boot around the vent was leaking and the water followed the pipe all the way down the the basement. You might be seeing the small about of water where is pools up on the lips of the seams.


My guess is it's this. ^^

Has the house been re-shingled lately? I knocked a pipe joint loose on the vent pipe reinstalling the rubber boot over the pipe when we re-shingled. I caught it right away and fixed it but I could see it being an issue even if the rubber boot was tight. I think it would be worth crawling up on the roof and inspecting before it rains again.

With water sitting on all of the joints that you have pointed out I would guess water is chasing down the outside of the pipe from above. In you picture, does the dust look like it has made a trail, maybe from water flowing?


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 19, 2014)

That's the other odd thing is that I can find no traces of water chasing down the main from above. But that seems to be the only likely scenario based on what has already been discussed here. Thyme to crawl up into ceiling tiles and take another close look at things. Perhaps I could put a mark on the pipe or something else defining that would get disturbed by a trickle of water. That would pretty much eliminate all other possibilities.

I'll get up on the roof too to inspect the vents. Thanks again for all the feedback.


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## Lumber Jim (Aug 19, 2014)

The piping looks very clean but it might be worth a shot. You could always use the garden hose to simulate a heavy rain...


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## engineergurl (Aug 19, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> That's the other odd thing is that I can find no traces of water chasing down the main from above. But that seems to be the only likely scenario based on what has already been discussed here. Thyme to crawl up into ceiling tiles and take another close look at things. Perhaps I could put a mark on the pipe or something else defining that would get disturbed by a trickle of water. That would pretty much eliminate all other possibilities.
> 
> I'll get up on the roof too to inspect the vents. Thanks again for all the feedback.




just a suggestion, but you can use aluminium foil to create a catch higher up on pipe that would catch a trickle of water...

I've tried to follow along. Have a bunch of comments, it's too late for my to type up my input.


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## YMZ PE (Aug 19, 2014)

Late to the game too, but I'm almost certain it's coming from the roof. I agree on using the garden hose to simulate rain, or perhaps a 5-gallon bucket filled with water and food coloring (perhaps red so you also get an early start on your Halloween decorating).


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## Road Guy (Aug 19, 2014)

Probably need a geophysical survey.....


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## knight1fox3 (Aug 20, 2014)

Do I need to hire a storm water engineer for this?


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## engineergurl (Aug 20, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> Do I need to hire a storm water engineer for this?




considering no one answered your question about how you will know when you get to the road.... what do you think?

Based on a bit of research (I think I got the right city), the sewer and storm drains ARE NOT interconnected for you, so I don't think that would help though.


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## snickerd3 (Aug 20, 2014)

you know the approx distance from the drain inside your house to the street...add on 20% to account for any non straight sections?


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## engineergurl (Aug 20, 2014)

snickerd3 said:


> you know the approx distance from the drain inside your house to the street...add on 20% to account for any non straight sections?






actually it would be a bit more than that, their city requires maintenance by the homeowner to the junction at the main in the street... check your bill and see if you have an extra line maintenance charge from a pvt company, if so, then call them...


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## Lumber Jim (Aug 20, 2014)

clarification question:

Wouldn't the simple act of flushing the toilet or emptying the clothes washer put more water down the pipe than rain drops collecting in open vent pipe(s) during a down pour?(his vent(s) may have a rain shield)

I ask because if he had a restriction after the location where water has been observed the issue would occur more often than just when it rains... Right?

I'm comparing the vent pipe(s) to a rain gauge. Even after 4" of rain, my 6 in. tall rain gauge hasn't leaked yet...


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## Road Guy (Aug 20, 2014)

I think we need a diagram..

Just take a saw-zall and cut everything out, replace it and see if it still leaks..


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## blybrook PE (Aug 20, 2014)

LJ does have a good point. Especially since I am looking at the updated pictures where the leaks have been noted.

The clog might not be post cleanout, it may be just above it.

One option, cut the pipe above the cleanout, remove the cleanout from the line (since you already have a joint or two below that will allow it's removal) and check for a clog by looking through the pipe with a flashlight. You can reassemble with another one of the clamp type joints and rotate the cleanout to where it's easier to access.

Another option (one I've had to do before) is to run the snake from the roof vent to the cleanout location. You can remove the section of pipe below the cleanout and replace with a bucket, then run the snake down from the roof. If it's a straight shot, you might be able to see if there's a clog by shinin a big a$$ light down the pipe.


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## matt267 PE (Aug 20, 2014)

When visually checking for a block in a vertical waste pipe from down stream, be sure to keep your eyes and mouth wide open.


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## envirotex (Aug 21, 2014)

How many engineers does it take to fix a leak?


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## engineergurl (Aug 21, 2014)

envirotex said:


> How many engineers does it take to fix a leak?




About ten engineers with an EG in the peanut gallery.


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## Supe (Aug 21, 2014)

envirotex said:


> How many engineers does it take to fix a leak?




None. They will abandon the leak in place and redesign the home's plumbing and city's stormwater piping instead.


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## engineergurl (Aug 21, 2014)

Supe said:


> envirotex said:
> 
> 
> > How many engineers does it take to fix a leak?
> ...




I regret to inform you that this process would require environmental mitigation.


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## Supe (Aug 21, 2014)

engineergurl said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> > envirotex said:
> ...




We all know nobody listens to enviros anyways...


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## matt267 PE (Aug 21, 2014)

Supe said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> > Supe said:
> ...


But the regulatory enviros always have the last word.


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## Road Guy (Aug 21, 2014)

&lt; 1.0 acres = exempt..


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## NJmike PE (Aug 21, 2014)

Road Guy said:


> &lt; 1.0 acres = exempt..


and no additional impervious coverage either


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## jeb6294 (Aug 24, 2014)

Before you run to the tool store to rent a snake, check with your city sewer department. Not sure if it's the norm, but here in Cincinnati, if you're having issues with your sewer you can call the sewer district and they'll come out and check it. Theoretically, they only check from the main to the right-of-way but in reality there's not real way of knowing when you get there so they end up checking up all the way to the house. It's also a one time thing.

How old is the house? If there were problems with back-ups in the past, the city could have put in a back flow preventer on the floor drain. That's a very popular band aid here where there are still a lot of combined sewers.


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## engineergurl (Aug 25, 2014)

NJmike PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> > &lt; 1.0 acres = exempt..
> ...




no such thing as exempt...


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## Road Guy (Aug 25, 2014)

you ever see any BMP's on a farm?


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## engineergurl (Aug 25, 2014)

Road Guy said:


> you ever see any BMP's on a farm?




there are plenty of environmental regulations dealing with agriculture


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## Road Guy (Aug 25, 2014)

link?

them boys are exempt from pretty much everything- except whining - especially erosion control...


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## Road Guy (Sep 2, 2014)

so with 5 people in the house we have a ton of shoes. I got this idea from the wonderful internet, but it worked really well.. totally cleaned up the mess of shoes in my garage.. total cost was around $100.. It uses the racks that you screw into the wall and the brackets that fit into it that hold the shelves. a little more expensive that the angle brackets but well worth the time saved.. hardest part was finding my bolt cutters to cut the shelving...

garage is still a wreck though, just this corner slowly getting there..


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## ventilator (Sep 2, 2014)

Thats a lot of shoes, of course I'm in FL so I have a pair of work boots and a pair of sandals. I guess thats a trade off for the 108 heat index we had yesterday.

anybody have any success using overhead hangers in their garages? Looking to clean up my garage floor but its mostly large stuff so I'd need something sturdy to mount to. Thinking of some shelving with some bike hooks underneath maybe.


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## Road Guy (Sep 2, 2014)

we had them in our old house, they were great, we got the brand from lowes (cant recall the name) but I had two sets of them and they held all our xmas stuff plus some..

depending how high your ceiling is they are kind of a chore to install, using a drill with a socket-bit to drive the lag screws makes the work easier...


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## snickerd3 (Sep 11, 2014)

so did you solve the problem fox?


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## knight1fox3 (Sep 11, 2014)

Haven't actually had any big storms for me to verify anything. However, up near the PVC junction point, there's an inspection label that is wrinkled and has blotched ink. I'd say that's a pretty good indicator of water coming down from above somehow. Just need to confirm it during an actual storm. Still though, where the main pipe passes through the 1st floor, is some type of foam/silicon sealant. And it looks pretty well sealed. But I suppose the slightest small opening and water could find it's way there.


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## snickerd3 (Sep 11, 2014)

my parents are having a similar issue and they can't find where the water is coming from. due to location, First they thought the dishwasher was leaking but when my pulled it out it was all dry. He ripped out the bottom paneling on the one wall of the bathroom and none of the water fixtures were leaking. Although that water issue was put on hold by all the rain the chicago area got last couple of weeks. The river that flows bwtn the house and the garage was tall enough to get into the house (window casing only ~6 inches off the ground) and there looks to be some seepage in the cinderbrick walls so he had to tear out the paneling on the two exterior walls on that side.


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## mudpuppy (Sep 11, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> Still though, where the main pipe passes through the 1st floor, is some type of foam/silicon sealant. And it looks pretty well sealed. But I suppose the slightest small opening and water could find it's way there.




It doesn't take much at all; a pinhole in caulk can cause a flood below--I've learned this from experience with my girlfriend's house.


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## matt267 PE (Oct 8, 2014)

So, any progress on this Fox? Inquiring minds need to know.


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## knight1fox3 (Oct 8, 2014)

Ya, the last rain storm produce similar results as what was described in my first post. So water is definitely coming down from above at some point, just haven't had time to narrow it down as to where exactly.


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## matt267 PE (Oct 8, 2014)

knight1fox3 said:


> Ya, the last rain storm produce similar results as what was described in my first post. So water is definitely coming down from above at some point, just haven't had time to narrow it down as to where exactly.


Rain from above is better then sewage from below. Good luck tracking it down.


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## knight1fox3 (Oct 13, 2014)

Updated photo below after a good storm moved through this evening. Nice trail of water from the bottom of the pipe again to the floor drain. But I can see the slight water leak from all the way up near the seal where the pipe passes through the 1st floor. Question now becomes, how close is that pipe to whatever roof vent there is? Maybe I'll get up in the attic to look around and see what I can see.


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## matt267 PE (Oct 14, 2014)

I see a trip to the roof in your future.


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## kevo_55 (Oct 14, 2014)

1 trip to the roof along with 5 tubes of roofing cement = no more leaks. (Until next summer.)


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## Road Guy (Oct 14, 2014)

I would bet its the little boot / sleeve that goes around the vent stack pipe at the roofline has come dislodged. If you can get to it with a good tube of roofing repair caulk that might do it. I had to do that on a townhouse I owned once...


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## knight1fox3 (Oct 14, 2014)

Thanks for all the responses. So the local hardware store should have something that's actually classified as "roofing caulk"? Not just any only silicon sealer will do?


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## matt267 PE (Oct 14, 2014)

Go for the roofing caulk. The silicon sealer likely won't hold up well to the sun and heat.


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## kevo_55 (Oct 14, 2014)

Here in the upper-midwest it's called roofing cement. I had to fix a roof leak a week or so ago. (Shingles did not overhang like they should have.)

The standard type is black and is asphalt based. I think I paid $2.25 a tube at Menards. There is a clear kind that was something like $8 a tube.

Just remember that this stuff will need some upkeep even if it is "all weather."


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## MA_PE (Oct 14, 2014)

so just saw this thread and my first thought when you said it only "leaked" in a heavy rain was that it was running down the vent pipe that went up to the roof. Putting goop/roofing cement/tar/ whatever you want to call it is the quick and dirty fix. Like RG said there should be a boot at the base of the vent pie that is sealed to the pie at the top edge and then flares out under the shingles below. See if you can see any tears or holes in that boot. If so, you might consider having a roofer do it correctly or you could take the Q&amp;D route. Good luck.


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## Road Guy (Oct 20, 2014)

So a few months ago we ended getting a replacement mattress to get us by a few years.. So wife bought one from ( costco(we actually like it) king size mattress in a box....

She calls, says it's heavy... I say "I'll be Home in 3 hours and will take it upstairs then".

So I get this text from the wife: (You can see the box where it "landed" down the stairs)






I guess she lost that battle... But maybe she had this planned all along... So we decided to replace it with the iron balusters (total cost for them was around $200?).. Defin have to say it was nice to get rid of the 90's almond handrail and white spindles.....

we still are going to restrain the other handrail to match. and this pic was just as I put the balusters in and was about to epoxy / level them.. we need to put on one more stain coat. Hard to tell in the before pic but the the top rail was busted so we had to replace that.. This was really pretty easy to do, just painful cause it takes a couple of weekends while you wait for the stain to dry and such..


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## csb (Oct 20, 2014)

Nice!

I've moved a lot of stuff like that. Never broke the house, though.


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## kevo_55 (Oct 20, 2014)

Kinda looks like the destruction brought on by my wife.......


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## engineergurl (Oct 20, 2014)

when i move that kind of crap, I make sure I don't destroy things because if I do, then I have to fix them


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## Road Guy (Oct 20, 2014)

I was kind of hoping she would move The tv soon, could use the next size up


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## csb (Oct 20, 2014)

Road Guy said:


> I was kind of hoping she would move her boobs soon, could use the next size up




Well then


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## Ship Wreck PE (Oct 20, 2014)

I thought RG was renting??


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## csb (Oct 20, 2014)

His wife? No. I think that's an ownership deal.


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## Road Guy (Oct 20, 2014)

yeah apparently that wife swapping isn't permanent. kind of wish we were told that ahead of time..


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## knight1fox3 (Feb 9, 2015)

Looking for a drill and driver kit for the new Dewalt cordless drills I got for Xmas. I've narrowed it down to these (2):

http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-100-Piece-drilling-driving/dp/B00692T2ZW/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422917850&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=drill+kit

Craftsman made in China? :huh:

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2583-Heavy-Duty-Container-Accessory/dp/B000VRCYWY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422977374&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=DW2583

The Dewalt kit is nice but the reviews say the case is unnecessarily huge.

Any comments or other recommendations?


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## mudpuppy (Feb 9, 2015)

^My advice is unless you're using the stuff on a daily basis and/or need true precision, go to Harbor Freight and get the cheapest Chinese stuff you can find. If it breaks you can get another one (or two or three) for less than the price of a single good quality one.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 9, 2015)

For general purpose, the cheap stuff works just fine. When you need to do very specific/precision drilling, go with the expensive stuff.


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## Road Guy (Feb 10, 2015)

Buy Quality, Buy once, have forever.

I have a similar Dewalt set (even though I am not a huge fan of Dewalt tools) but I have a split set (bits and drivers and such) had 20+ years.. gone through a few of the larger size bits when drilling holes through trailers and other thicker metals, its not really meant for that but it will get you buy..

this summer I am looking to build some plywood cabinets (as a base) with some shelving above for storage along the side of my garage. Anyone come across some decent plywood cabinet plans? I cant really seem to find a whole lot out there..

Also I am thinking of using some galvanized pipe for the shelves(instead of 2 X 4's) as supports (above the base cabinets if you can envision) and then cut some 1/2 in plywood for the shelves...

I saw this on one of those home improvement shows and it looked nice, what I Like about it is it makes it a little easier to disassemble and move say in the event I move in a few years, whereas 2X4's tend to become permanent fixtures. a 8' section of pipe runs about the same as a 2X4 does these days...


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## Supe (Feb 10, 2015)

Harbor Freight drill bits are not worth the cost, even if they give them away for free, and I'm a huge proponent of stuff from HF. I have a set of Dewalt bits, and they hold a point, flex very little, and have been generally very reliable.

Most Crapsman stuff is made in China anymore.


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## Supe (Feb 1, 2016)

Tile backsplash - When removing existing tile for a kitchen backsplash, is is acceptable to mud the existing drywall as a substrate and re-tile over that, or is it mandatory to cut out that drywall and replace with a fresh hardiboard?


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 1, 2016)

I believe you can just re-mud it.


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## Road Guy (Feb 1, 2016)

yes, so long as you can remove the old one and keep the "paper" part intact?

we tried using the old sheetrock but when we removed the existing tile most of the sheetrock came off so we used the thinner "wonderboard" and ended up removing all the old sheetrock- probably my demolition method


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## Supe (Feb 1, 2016)

That's the question.  In most cases, I think the paper face comes off in a lot of areas.  That said, I've patched drywall where the paper was torn, I just used a razor to clean the edges up and went to town, just didn't know if it would create problems with fresh tile adhering.  

The reason I lean towards reusing it is because the backsplash comes right up to the cabinets and countertops, and there's no way to mud and tape to blend with a fresh piece without removing it.  You'd inevitably end up with some sort of visible seam.


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## MA_PE (Feb 1, 2016)

Are the cabinets hung units or custom?  If they are hung, it might be easier to pull the cabinets, refurbish the backsplash and then  rehang them.


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## knight1fox3 (Feb 1, 2016)

MA_PE said:


> Are the cabinets hung units or custom?  If they are hung, it might be easier to pull the cabinets, refurbish the backsplash and then  rehang them.


Heh heh.... @csb


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## csb (Feb 1, 2016)

I prefer naturally hung units.


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## Road Guy (Feb 1, 2016)

Supe said:


> That's the question.  In most cases, I think the paper face comes off in a lot of areas.  That said, I've patched drywall where the paper was torn, I just used a razor to clean the edges up and went to town, just didn't know if it would create problems with fresh tile adhering.
> 
> The reason I lean towards reusing it is because the backsplash comes right up to the cabinets and countertops, and there's no way to mud and tape to blend with a fresh piece without removing it.  You'd inevitably end up with some sort of visible seam.


what I had to do was leave the sheetrock in place where the cabinets end and then transition (about a foot before the cabinet / counter ended) you can get the wonder board to match, or you can reinstall new sheetrock-note you don't have to mud &amp; tape the sheetrock if your using it just for tile


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## Supe (Feb 1, 2016)

I just think I would have to get really creative with grout or caulk to hide the transition in spots.  Guess I can figure it out as I go.  MA - they're hung cabinets, but taking them down would be a biiiiiiiitch.  I'm not even pulling them down to paint when the time comes, only the doors.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 1, 2016)

With some planning, you can set the sheetrock seams to line up with the edges of the new tile backspash and then not have to worry about blending/matching. (assuming you're covering the entire area with tile)


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## Road Guy (Feb 1, 2016)

maybe I need to see a picture? I thought your were worried about the vertical seam?

you should be able to cut it down to the counter or top of the backsplash and make it work, just use some of that blue painters tape and cover the counter top (backsplash) and then grout it like normal, maybe use a little stiffer grout on it.  (that's what I did) 

I don't have a pic, but the wife changed her mind on our bar backsplash after I started and had to change it out, I fucked up the sheetrock and had to cut it all out and then put wonder board back (mainly cause I had some laying around)   see the basement finish thread if you can find it


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## goodal (Feb 1, 2016)

So weird.  We talked about this today at lunch.  I've got two small tile projects going at home.  One is above our shower and the other at the back door.  I'm using concrete board for both, but both are a little different than a backsplash.


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## Supe (Feb 1, 2016)

Road Guy said:


> maybe I need to see a picture? I thought your were worried about the vertical seam?
> 
> you should be able to cut it down to the counter or top of the backsplash and make it work, just use some of that blue painters tape and cover the counter top (backsplash) and then grout it like normal, maybe use a little stiffer grout on it.  (that's what I did)
> 
> I don't have a pic, but the wife changed her mind on our bar backsplash after I started and had to change it out, I fucked up the sheetrock and had to cut it all out and then put wonder board back (mainly cause I had some laying around)   see the basement finish thread if you can find it


It's the horizontal seam.  Stone butts right up the cabinet in spots.  I can probably fudge it if I did it like you said, which is grout it up to the backsplash and the cabinet lips.  

While we're at it, any thoughts on converting a standard open/close window to a sealed fixed window?  I want to yank out the soaker tub in the master bath and do a big tiled walk-in shower there.  However, there is a slider window on the right hand side that would have to be swapped over to a fixed window (presumably glass block).  Maybe I can replace with a new vinyl window and PVC trim, but the prospect of water intrusion/rot scares me to death.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 1, 2016)

For the window, the only thought would be egress to meet fire code? Typically that only applies to "living" areas (bedrooms, living room), but it may apply to your house based on it's configuration.


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## Supe (Feb 1, 2016)

Two windows already in the adjoining bedroom, so I shouldn't need to worry about the bathroom any more than the garage or laundry room not having windows.  Also, bathroom on the other side is on an interior wall and has nothing either.


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## matt267 PE (Feb 2, 2016)

Has anyone built a murphy bed? I'm looking to turn our "guest" room into a home office, but we still need a bed in there for when the in laws visit. The choices are either an inflatable bed or a murphy bed. The murphy bed would be more expensive, but would last longer and would be more comfortable. The murphy bed would also be a hell of a lot more work to build. I have the basic tools (table saw, miter saw, drills, circular saw, etc.). My skill set is more of a hacker homeowner/weekend warrior. I'm just wondering if anyone else has experience building one. There are kits available that include all the metal hardware but none of the lumber. That would be my responsibility.


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## Supe (Feb 2, 2016)

Anna White has some seriously cool shit on her site...

http://www.ana-white.com/2010/03/plans-a-murphy-bed-you-can-build-and-afford-to-build.html


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## matt267 PE (Feb 2, 2016)

Thanks Supe. That looks like an awesome site.


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## Road Guy (Feb 2, 2016)

is the room big enough to use a day bed? that what we have in our office and (unfortunately ) use it when family visits seems to double as sofa for an extra place t hang out once in the while


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## matt267 PE (Feb 2, 2016)

Unfortunately, the room is too small. Plus my wife wants the bed to be a queen size. :facepalm:


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## Road Guy (Feb 2, 2016)

our day bed pulls out from underneath and that makes it a king size (two twin beds next to each other). not the best but if its a free room I don't listen to peoples complaints..

What the wife does is makes the two twin beds as one and the she got one of those 4" mattress toppers from Costco to put on top of the twin so you don't feel the seam as much..  actually the twin mattresses we have are probably the most comfortable in our house..  But if its too small for twin day then that wont work


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## matt267 PE (Feb 2, 2016)

That could be a possibility too RG. I'll look into that.


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## matt267 PE (Feb 2, 2016)

RG, the daybed idea looks like it will work in the space AND the wife likes it. Thanks for the suggestion. Ikea has one that will meet our needs.


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## P-E (Feb 2, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> RG, the daybed idea looks like it will work in the space AND the wife likes it. Thanks for the suggestion. Ikea has one that will meet our needs.


We got the HEMNES for our extra room.  Took a bit to assemble, but it has worked out for us.

Choose a better mattress option than the standard one that is shown with it.


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## matt267 PE (Feb 3, 2016)

PE, that's the one that we're looking at from Ikea. I'm assuming putting that together would be easier than building a murphy bed. Do the two twin mattresses fit side by side perpendicular to the back of the daybed. Meaning, would I be able to set it up so the back of the daybed (the part against the wall) is the headboard with each person having their own mattress (I would use a mattress topper)?


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## P-E (Feb 3, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> PE, that's the one that we're looking at from Ikea. I'm assuming putting that together would be easier than building a murphy bed. Do the two twin mattresses fit side by side perpendicular to the back of the daybed. Meaning, would I be able to set it up so the back of the daybed (the part against the wall) is the headboard with each person having their own mattress (I would use a mattress topper)?


Haven't tried perpendicular.  They fit parallel obviously.  Ill look tonight.


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## matt267 PE (Feb 3, 2016)

power-engineer said:


> Haven't tried perpendicular.  They fit parallel obviously.  Ill look tonight.


thanks. Do your guests sleep parallel to the mattresses or perpendicular?

Yes, I'm making this more complicated than it has to be. But trust me, I'm an engineer.


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## P-E (Feb 3, 2016)

Parallel.


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## Supe (Feb 3, 2016)

Matt - the pair of mattresses on the Hemnes ends up square, i.e. if you extend it, you can flip the mattresses to run lengthwise where the couch "back" becomes the headboard.  

Junior has outgrown her loft bed, and I will probably end up picking up the Hemnes as well for her room.  I can't build one at that price.


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## knight1fox3 (Feb 3, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> thanks. Do your guests sleep parallel to the mattresses or perpendicular?
> 
> Yes, I'm making this more complicated than it has to be. But trust me, I'm an engineer.


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## matt267 PE (Feb 3, 2016)

Fox, but my in laws aren't from France.


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## P-E (Feb 7, 2016)

Supe said:


> Matt - the pair of mattresses on the Hemnes ends up square, i.e. if you extend it, you can flip the mattresses to run lengthwise where the couch "back" becomes the headboard.
> 
> Junior has outgrown her loft bed, and I will probably end up picking up the Hemnes as well for her room.  I can't build one at that price.


Yup each mattress is approx 3' x 6'.


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## Road Guy (Feb 7, 2016)

We have the old fashioned style day bed (although its new)






Ignore the family related quilt and stuff...


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## matt267 PE (Feb 7, 2016)

Nice. I think a day bed will be the way we go.


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## Road Guy (Feb 7, 2016)

We got ours at one of those big furniture style store (american furniture warehouse), maybe like $200 bucks? But we already had the mattress's


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## goodal (Feb 8, 2016)

I tackled a couple of small tile projects this weekend.  The back entry and the drywall above the master shower had some water damage that needed addressing.  Pulled sheetrock/subfloor out.  Replaced with green board/plywood-greenboard and layed tile.  The floor was easy.  Only three cuts.  I had the bright idea to lay the shower wall at 45 degrees.  That was a bear.  I broke a borrowed tile cutter and got to borrow my BIL powered hand saw.  Couldn't have done it without the hand saw.


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## Road Guy (Feb 8, 2016)

like a grinder with a cut off wheel? (hand saw)

Back when the residential building economy was in the tank I picked up a really sweet tile saw for a bunch of tile projects fairly cheap $250 bucks) this was a beast of a saw.  Sadly I sold it when I moved, wish I still had it cause the wife is wanting to tile our bathroom, for some reason a lot of the master bathrooms have carpet in them out here.. but wish I had the saw for this job so I don't have to buy one or rent one


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## Supe (Feb 8, 2016)

Crown molding with 22 1/2 degree bevel cuts for a window cornice was my nemesis this weekend.  I couldn't figure out one end with a single bevel miter saw, and the degrees that the lookup tables were giving me were very clearly off.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 8, 2016)

My miter saw has the angles pre-marked for crown molding.  It made it 1000x easier not needing to calculate it.


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## Supe (Feb 8, 2016)

Mine does not, and with it not being a double bevel, it is that much harder.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 9, 2016)

My Craftsman saw has pictures and a chart in the instruction book for crown molding, i.e. if you want the inside of this corner, set this to X degrees and that to XX degrees.

I got to have someone come over this weekend and dig up the front of our house to figure out why the sewer was running out from underneath the front patio.  There was a clog, but apparently everything has settled enough over the 50 years since the house was built that the lateral has a belly in it.  The clog was bad enough that everything was coming out the joint where the belly way.  They cleared the clog as a temporary Band-Aid and we'll have to have them come out and do a more permanent fix once the weather improves.  One fortunate thing it that, even though we have a full basement, the sewer line is a high line (elevated about 5-ft high where it exits the basement) so it's only about 3-ft deep.  When the nimrods built the house, they also went out about 8-ft and then put in a 90....who puts a 90 in a sewer lateral?


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## Lumber Jim (Feb 9, 2016)

Supe said:


> Mine does not, and with it not being a double bevel, it is that much harder.


the secret to this is cutting crown molding upside down where the mounting face is against the back stop. then the only angle is the 45 degree corner. use a sharp blade.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 10, 2016)

I also make sure to keep all my scrap pieces so I can do a practice cut if I'm not sure and also to test fit cuts...sometimes the saw may need to be adjusted a degree or two to get a better joint.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 10, 2016)

^^^ Just use caulk to fill the gaps. You need it to fill the nail holes anyways. All my crown molding is 9' up, no one can tell a difference.


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## Road Guy (Feb 10, 2016)

crown is tough, when I worked at Home Depot we sold a compound miter saw that had the angles marked on it for crown (I think it was a Ryobi?)  we couldn't keep it in stock (even though it was a Ryobi)

my grandfather helped me put some up in a townhouse we bought a long time ago, he basically would use a coping saw.

Its an acquired skill for certain..


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 10, 2016)

The bigger challenge is when you discover your ceiling/walls aren't straight and/or square.  I used more caulk filling the gap along the length of the molding than at the corners.  I also did a 3-piece molding and had to fill the gaps in between the pieces.

This is what I put in:


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## snickerd3 (Feb 10, 2016)

^Way too expensive for my frugal tastes....that baseboard stuff isn't cheap


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 10, 2016)

I forget how much I spent on it, but it was something stupid like $20/foot.  We used the white plastic molding because it was cheaper. I don't want to think about how expensive real wood would have been.


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## willsee (Feb 10, 2016)

Anyone know anything about basement leakage?

Our window wells fill up with water from the ground and that water leaks into our basement (unfinished).  I dug around in one of the wells and there doesn't appear to be a drain (1962 house).  I've had two companies come out so far with two different proposals.

Company #1 - said they will install two new window wells, dig out the earth and install pea gravel for drainage and install a drain.  Tie the drains together and run out to the yard somewhere.  With the window wells so deep already I'd have to imagine they would need to trench 5' to 6' deep just to get a proper slope for drainage so in my non-plumbing/water head i wouldn't think that would work very well.  No warranty on the work as well.

Company #2 - said they would install an exterior drain around the house below the frost line and take that to daylight.  Then install an interior drain inside and take the window well drains to those put in brand new sump pump and discharge out.  He said the exterior drain is good for getting the water away from the house and the interior for taking care of whatever might end up in the house.  I'm leary of busting up the basement and doing that if I haven't seen water from anywhere except the windows but I can tell that there has been water in the past from stains on the walls.  I told him about Company #1 plan and he laughed and said he didn't understand how that would work (similar to the reasons I assumed it wouldn't work).  Full warranty on work for life.

Our plan is to finish some of the basement in a couple of years (after this work is done and I give it a year or two to make sure it worked) so I like Option #2 from a future standpoint to just take care of everything but it also comes at a price.  My parents dealt with a leaky basement for years and it was miserable throughout my childhood.


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## matt267 PE (Feb 10, 2016)

@willsee, do you have a high groundwater table in your area? Have you made sure your gutter downspouts are all directed away from the house and that the grounds surface is pitched away? My inlaws had basement water issues. They had the yard regraded and now their sump pump barely runs. Its just a thought.


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## snickerd3 (Feb 10, 2016)

Interior drain like a french drain?  

we had a leaking half below grade walkout that let water in any time it rained.  The basement waterproofing contractor wanted to install a french drain to catch the water that came in, instead of finding a way to fix the problem.  

we had a concrete contractor come in to look and laughed at what the other guy recommended.  The concrete had settled angling towards the house.  so he busted up all the concrete that was near the edge of the house and poured new concrete in bottom of the below grade stairwell with larger drain access designed such that even if it settled it wouldn't angle back towards the house.  3 yrs later and not a drop of water...we just have to deal with tiny song frogs that like to make a home under the drain grate.


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## willsee (Feb 10, 2016)

Yeah interior french drain.

That's a good idea Matt.  I've left messages with a couple of landscape contractors to get their thoughts.  Our sump runs pretty frequently and we have areas of yard that don't drain very well, so maybe if I get them out there they might have some ideas that don't involve busting up what seems like a fine basement aside from the leaking window wells.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 10, 2016)

Sub-floor drains only work if they have somewhere to drain to that is drier than where they are draining from. If they are running under the basement floor, you're only real option is to tie it into the house sewer line or to a sump pump/pit.  Otherwise it will be trying to discharge into somewhere that is surcharged.

I would start with the grades around the perimeter of the building and making sure everything within 5-8 feet drain away from the house (5% grade on landscaping, 2% min on impervious surfaces).  In the city I live, they require the grade within 10' of the house has to be 10% (only 2% if it's impervious).


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## wilheldp_PE (Feb 10, 2016)

willsee said:


> Yeah interior french drain.
> 
> That's a good idea Matt.  I've left messages with a couple of landscape contractors to get their thoughts.  Our sump runs pretty frequently and we have areas of yard that don't drain very well, so maybe if I get them out there they might have some ideas that don't involve busting up what seems like a fine basement aside from the leaking window wells.


Is the second contractor a plumber or just a foundation repair or landscaping firm?  If it's the former, you could have them rough in plumbing for a bathroom in your basement while they are down there busting up concrete for the french drain.  That way, you only have to clean up concrete dust/mess once, and you don't have to worry about the plumbing when you get around to finishing the basement.


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## Supe (Feb 11, 2016)

Dexman PE PMP said:


> ^^^ Just use caulk to fill the gaps. You need it to fill the nail holes anyways. All my crown molding is 9' up, no one can tell a difference.


This is going as trim on top of a window cornice, so I don't have the luxury.  Though I will be using caulk a plenty anyways.  It doesn't help that something crapped out on my 10" saw and it won't cut at a 90 anymore.  Probably should just dump it and pony up for the Hitachi one.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 11, 2016)

Those "basement waterproofing" companies are BS artists.  Had one come out to the old house because of a couple hairline cracks.  Even after I told him I was an Engineer he proceeded with his canned sales pitch about putting in a French drain around the perimeter on the inside of the basement and cutting in a sump...for a couple hairline cracks.  I threw him out before he had a chance to finish.

A good french drain around the exterior of the house will probably solve 90% of any water problems in a basement since it would catch any ground water before it has a chance to make it to the basement.  Good drainage around the house would probably fix your window well problem, but just in case, I'm not sure if there's any reason why you couldn't tie a drain into the exterior drainage.  If you still have the super-crappy basement windows, those aren't doing squat to help the situation.  If you're going to finish the basement, you'd want to replace them with glass block anyway which will also help.


----------



## Road Guy (Feb 11, 2016)

has there been any recent development occurring around your subdivision that may have shifted drainage patterns?

I am "stalking" my former neighborhood website from Atlanta (they haven't kicked me out of the HOA forums yet), apparently almost every house that backed up to a new development was having serious basement flooding issues and although it took them a while to figure out, it appears a lot of the drainage from the newer (higher density) development dumped a good bit of water where it didn't used to go. Sounds like they have an annoying legal fight and most of these people had spent some major money finishing in their basements.

but I would opt for the exterior French drain first before I would bust up the inside of the house


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## willsee (Feb 11, 2016)

wilheldp_PE said:


> Is the second contractor a plumber or just a foundation repair or landscaping firm?  If it's the former, you could have them rough in plumbing for a bathroom in your basement while they are down there busting up concrete for the french drain.  That way, you only have to clean up concrete dust/mess once, and you don't have to worry about the plumbing when you get around to finishing the basement.


Both companies have been basement waterproofing companies.  Good point about plumbing though.



Dexman PE PMP said:


> Sub-floor drains only work if they have somewhere to drain to that is drier than where they are draining from. If they are running under the basement floor, you're only real option is to tie it into the house sewer line or to a sump pump/pit.  Otherwise it will be trying to discharge into somewhere that is surcharged.
> 
> I would start with the grades around the perimeter of the building and making sure everything within 5-8 feet drain away from the house (5% grade on landscaping, 2% min on impervious surfaces).  In the city I live, they require the grade within 10' of the house has to be 10% (only 2% if it's impervious).


Now that I've posted and have seen everyone's comments the real problem is water is coming towards the house for some reason.  We do have spots that pool water and I do know that my downspouts and sump discharge are part of the problem.



jeb6294 said:


> Those "basement waterproofing" companies are BS artists.  Had one come out to the old house because of a couple hairline cracks.  Even after I told him I was an Engineer he proceeded with his canned sales pitch about putting in a French drain around the perimeter on the inside of the basement and cutting in a sump...for a couple hairline cracks.  I threw him out before he had a chance to finish.
> 
> A good french drain around the exterior of the house will probably solve 90% of any water problems in a basement since it would catch any ground water before it has a chance to make it to the basement.  Good drainage around the house would probably fix your window well problem, but just in case, I'm not sure if there's any reason why you couldn't tie a drain into the exterior drainage.  If you still have the super-crappy basement windows, those aren't doing squat to help the situation.  If you're going to finish the basement, you'd want to replace them with glass block anyway which will also help.


I told the second guy that it seemed like overkill to bust up the entire basement when the problem was just the window wells filling up, not water coming from where the floor/wall meet (like my parents had).  It still also doesn't fix water coming into the house it just directs it once it does.  I'd rather go one step at a time to fix the issue.  Yeah the windows are crap but I at least liked they let water slowly come into the basement so the well didn't build up and blow the window out at once.

So maybe probably do something like:

Take the downspouts/sump further away from house

Check / fix grading

Install exterior drain



Road Guy said:


> has there been any recent development occurring around your subdivision that may have shifted drainage patterns?
> 
> I am "stalking" my former neighborhood website from Atlanta (they haven't kicked me out of the HOA forums yet), apparently almost every house that backed up to a new development was having serious basement flooding issues and although it took them a while to figure out, it appears a lot of the drainage from the newer (higher density) development dumped a good bit of water where it didn't used to go. Sounds like they have an annoying legal fight and most of these people had spent some major money finishing in their basements.
> 
> but I would opt for the exterior French drain first before I would bust up the inside of the house


No this house was built in the early 60's.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 12, 2016)

I think I drank about a gallon of sump water last night.  Wife happened to be off yesterday so I get a call at about 3pm telling me there was water shooting out from the pipe on the sump pump but she was able to straighten up the pipe and slow it to a trickle.  Dumbass that lived there before me...the one who thought he was a handyman but was actually a moron...did a crappy job on this too.  The check valve wasn't on there very well and the upper pipe had worked itself loose a little bit.  Ran to The Depot and got a new valve just to be on the safe side figuring I just needed to swap out the valve.  I replaced it but when the pump kicked on it just stirred the water up.  When I kicked on the emergency pump manually, it did the same thing.  There's a conveniently placed 2" copper line coming off the sewer stack that ends at a threaded connection right next to the sump lines (I'm thinking a previous plumbing job added it but nimrod never used it and just capped it).  I hooked the pump into that and the sump was empty in a flash.  It's been in the single digits the last few days so I am thinking the limited pumping allowed the discharge pipe outside to freeze.

Between the water in the pipe and the pumps kicking on and off at inconvenient times, I was drenched.


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## Supe (Feb 16, 2016)

That sucks, Jeb.

FYI, I picked this guy up for $30 and didn't f up another cut of crown.  Worth every penny, even if just for the angle finder they include with it, which measures both wall angle and the angle of your crown if its an unknown.


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## knight1fox3 (Jun 2, 2016)

Anyone have any experience/feedback with these kits?  I'm very skeptical about using it for a fridge water line install after reading various negative reviews (mostly from plumbers too!).


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## matt267 PE (Jun 2, 2016)

That's what feeds my ice machine in the freezer. The only minor issue I've had was with sudden low flow. I simple closed the valve and reopened it. There must have been a mineral blockage. 

I've had it installed for about 8 years.


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## Road Guy (Jun 2, 2016)

yeah they work pretty well, another option is to use those shark bite fittings, but then you have to cut the pipe


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## DuckFlats (Jun 2, 2016)

Go with the shark bite fittings. Little expensive, but well worth it. Just make sure the fitting is pushed on straight so you don't ruin the gasket.


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## kevo_55 (Jun 2, 2016)

They are ez to install and had one in my old house.(put it in myself for the ice maker in the fridge.)

My new place has a dedicated copper line with a screw type connection like for a toilet. I'm sure this is better but I would hate to have to install  one myself.

Shit, that doesn't sound good.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Jun 2, 2016)

Why not get one of these?? Just unscrew old single valve, apply a little Teflon tape and screw on new double valve. Easy piesy


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Jun 2, 2016)

Oh yea. You might want to shut off water to house first.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jun 3, 2016)

My old house had one of those "slap-on" taps for the humidifier.  Seemed to work fine and never had any problems with it.  There's a water line for our current fridge, but to be honest, I'm not even sure how it's hooked up because it was already there.  Something to keep in mind, you're poking a hole through the side of your copper water line so once it's on there it's never coming off.

I'm guessing most any plumber is going to say they're garbage because that's something a homeowner can do themselves as opposed to a plumber cutting in a tee for $65/hour.


----------



## mudpuppy (Jun 3, 2016)

I dunno, those saddle valves seem like a leak waiting to happen.  The pipe is under 40+ psi of pressure and all that's holding the water back is a little bit of rubber, which tends to dry out over time.

Shark bites, saddle valves. . . where's you guys' man cards?  Cut the pipe, slap in a valve/fitting and solder it in.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 3, 2016)

Tony Horton doesn't teach that class


----------



## Dleg (Jun 3, 2016)

All the manly men in Alaska prefer shark bites to soldering :dunno:


----------



## P-E (Jun 3, 2016)

But what's not to like about a mapp gas torch?


----------



## DuckFlats (Jun 3, 2016)

Man card for soldering as opposed to shark bites? That's fine, I'm too busy fishin and huntin anyway.


----------



## matt267 PE (Jun 3, 2016)

P-E said:


> But what's not to like about a mapp gas torch?


----------



## P-E (Jun 3, 2016)

That'll take care of the spiders.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 3, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> That's what feeds my ice machine in the freezer. The only minor issue I've had was with sudden low flow. I simple closed the valve and reopened it. There must have been a mineral blockage.
> 
> I've had it installed for about 8 years.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback.  I think I'm going to forego the saddle type and go with this kit instead:









DuckFlats said:


> Go with the shark bite fittings. Little expensive, but well worth it. Just make sure the fitting is pushed on straight so you don't ruin the gasket.


Thanks for the info.



Ship Wreck PE said:


> Why not get one of these?? Just unscrew old single valve, apply a little Teflon tape and screw on new double valve. Easy piesy


Problem is there's no good location at the moment that has an existing valve (i.e. I'm not tapping in by my kitchen sink).  But a good suggestion I will keep in mind.



mudpuppy said:


> I dunno, those saddle valves seem like a leak waiting to happen.  The pipe is under 40+ psi of pressure and all that's holding the water back is a little bit of rubber, which tends to dry out over time.
> Shark bites, saddle valves. . . where's you guys' man cards?  Cut the pipe, slap in a valve/fitting and solder it in.


Exactly my thought on the leak.  And why in certain states plumbers aren't even allowed to use them.  Though @matt267 PE seems to have had good luck.

The only soldering equipment I have is in my "geek" tackle box for electrical circuits during my undergrad lab days.  I've also been told that copper soldering can be thought of as an art.  I'd rather not "experiment" with something like this and try to go a different route.  Shark bite components seem to be getting good reviews.


----------



## matt267 PE (Jun 3, 2016)

knight1fox3 said:


> Though @matt267 PE seems to have had good luck.


I hope I don't spring a leak now.


----------



## P-E (Jun 3, 2016)

knight1fox3 said:


> Thanks for the feedback.  I think I'm going to forego the saddle type and go with this kit instead:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Seems like a lot of effort for no keg/tap provisions.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 3, 2016)

P-E said:


> Seems like a lot of effort for no keg/tap provisions.


You say that like it hasn't already been installed.  Priorities.  Beer &gt; Water/Ice :thumbs:


----------



## matt267 PE (Jun 3, 2016)

I ran out of beer. I've been drinking Cognac instead.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jun 6, 2016)

Dleg said:


> All the manly men in Alaska prefer shark bites to soldering :dunno:


I didn't think anyone used copper in Alaska? I was watching "Alaskan Bush People" and all of their plumbing was outside and they used PVC for everything. Aren't they typical of everyone who lives in Alaska?


----------



## matt267 PE (Jun 6, 2016)

jeb6294 said:


> Aren't they typical of everyone who lives in Alaska?


opcorn:


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 6, 2016)

Here's how it turned out (before &amp; after).  Much more comfortable with this vs. the saddle valve.  I'm sure it's not quite up to @mudpuppy's expectations, but still looks nice.    So if I add "novice plumber" to my LinkedIn profile, will anyone endorse me? :dunno:   LOL


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Jun 6, 2016)

knight1fox3 said:


> Here's how it turned out (before &amp; after).  Much more comfortable with this vs. the saddle valve.  I'm sure it's not quite up to @mudpuppy's expectations, but still looks nice. [emoji14]  So if I add "novice plumber" to my LinkedIn profile, will anyone endorse me? :dunno:   LOL/monthly_2016_06/5755946ee7cb7_ValveInstall.png.958a82faf0209b71fa53e592595e2fa8.png


I notice a lot of your low voltage cables are pretty close to your hot water lines?


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 6, 2016)

Ship Wreck PE said:


> I notice a lot of your low voltage cables are pretty close to your hot water lines?


I think it's the angle I took the photo because they are isolated.  I believe the previous owner was an electrician.  Most of the wiring is fairly neat and organized aside from those particular grouping of comm. cables.


----------



## willsee (Jun 6, 2016)

willsee said:


> Anyone know anything about basement leakage?
> 
> Our window wells fill up with water from the ground and that water leaks into our basement (unfinished).  I dug around in one of the wells and there doesn't appear to be a drain (1962 house).  I've had two companies come out so far with two different proposals.
> 
> ...


So I ended up installing a trench drain on the side of the house where we had the most problems and burying the sump discharge and downspouts in separate pipe away from the house.

While we haven't had any rain since then, but my sump pump hasn't run since it was installed (it would run every 2 hours or so) so fingers crossed that this took care of it.


----------



## Dleg (Jun 6, 2016)

jeb6294 said:


> I didn't think anyone used copper in Alaska? I was watching "Alaskan Bush People" and all of their plumbing was outside and they used PVC for everything. Aren't they typical of everyone who lives in Alaska?


  

Most of the systems I work on use copper indoors.  It seems like a lot of people are going to PEX for plumbing and even the hydronic heating systems, though. Outdoors is almost exclusively HDPE and PEX (inside insulated arctic piping).  I've seen a lot of leaking copper hydronic systems, due to deterioration of the glycol.  I've only ever seen PVC indoors inside a couple of water treatment plants.  PVC doesn't do as well as HDPE and PEX under freezing conditions.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 6, 2016)

Dleg said:


> Most of the systems I work on use copper indoors.  It seems like a lot of people are going to PEX for plumbing and even the hydronic heating systems, though. Outdoors is almost exclusively HDPE and PEX (inside insulated arctic piping).  I've seen a lot of leaking copper hydronic systems, due to deterioration of the glycol.  I've only ever seen PVC indoors inside a couple of water treatment plants.  PVC doesn't do as well as HDPE and PEX under freezing conditions.


A lot of the "kits" I saw at the hardware store used PEX tubing.  But with it's smaller size, it still seemed rather rigid and difficult to route.  So I'm going the braided stainless steel route.  Though I've only been able to find a maximum continuous length of 20 FT.


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 7, 2016)

braided steel for what? I thought you had it all done.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 7, 2016)

I am looking for some good tool storage ideas (yeah baby!) without spending a grand for a large took cabinet?

That's what I really need / want, but in liu of spending $800 bucks I was thinking about making a bunch of shelves that would fit small toolboxes or totes that I could label "English sockets" Allen wrenches, drill bits, etc, etc, etc,

I spend more time looking for a tool than it does to do the actual project!


----------



## Supe (Jun 7, 2016)

If you've got wall space, peg board is your friend.

That said, nothing beats a tool box for layout/convenience when it comes to small hand tools.  Home Depot has some house brand tool boxes that are good bang for the buck for someone who isn't using them daily in a professional capacity.  I'm going to buy their largest one, which is the top and bottom 56" model to consolidate some of my other stuff (a Waterloo machinist cabinet, and a Harbor Freight one).


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 7, 2016)

Peg board is already full, I could fill a large one that runs for around $800 at Home Depot / Lowes, I went and looked at the ones at Harbor Freight and they didn't have a  huge selection.

Seems like they either have something that would be too small for $400 or just a tad too  large for $800 +


----------



## Supe (Jun 7, 2016)

Check out the Craftsman boxes at Sears as well.  They have some "tweener" sizes.  Keep in mind, you can add an extension box to most of them.  

Husky makes three boxes from 41" to 66" wide for under $600, including model [FONT= 'Helvetica Neue']76812A24[/FONT] which is on sale for $200 off.  I'm between that one and model #  [FONT= 'Helvetica Neue']HOTC5218B1QES which is narrower but taller.[/FONT]


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 7, 2016)

MA_PE said:


> braided steel for what? I thought you had it all done.


So my primary concern was how to tap into my existing copper lines.  I'm always skeptical of "fixing something that isn't broke".  Asking around I found the saddle valve that I really wasn't a fan of based on feedback/reviews I read.  So I went with the brass SharkBite union.  Though not very difficult to install, it put my leaking concerns at rest.  The next step of the project is to now run the actual ice-maker water line up through the basement to the fridge.  The PVC that was provided seemed very cheap and rigid.  So I'm going to run braided stainless steel for that to provide easier routing.


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 8, 2016)

I'd use copper tubing.  there's really no need for braided steel.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 8, 2016)

MA_PE said:


> I'd use copper tubing.  there's really no need for braided steel.


As would I if the house were being newly constructed.  As it stands now, this is above my drop ceiling in a finished basement where I need to route across pre-fab walls and such.  Not to mention the part where I expressed that I am no plumber so I have no desire to attempt any sort of soldering that isn't related to electrical circuits. :thumbs:   I also don't have the proper equipment to do bending, soldering, and joint assembly.  Trust me, the braided steel was a godsend after routing it last night.  And the tubing is only 1/4" compression so it wasn't difficult to manipulate.

Also, what do you take issue with regarding braided steel?


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 9, 2016)

This type of copper.  No bending, soldering or joints involved.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOXCJC?psc=1

Nothing against the braided steel I just expected it to be significantly more expensive than copper tubing (after looking a bit the price is comparable)..  Copper would use compression fittings so no soldering and it's relatively flexible as well.  Glad it worked out for you.  Ther are many ways to skin a cat.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 9, 2016)

MA_PE said:


> This type of copper.  No bending, soldering or joints involved.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOXCJC?psc=1
> 
> Nothing against the braided steel I just expected it to be significantly more expensive than copper tubing (after looking a bit the price is comparable)..  Copper would use compression fittings so no soldering and it's relatively flexible as well.  Glad it worked out for you.  Ther are many ways to skin a cat.


Thanks for the suggestion.  I actually bought that kit first and returned it.  It is "bendable" but extremely difficult to route (again, I'm no plumber) for my particular application.  And I wasn't able to make any 90s with it as it would pinch.  So I would have had to make a point-to-point run with the copper and it wouldn't have looked the greatest interweaving with my duct work and such.  Plus the SS braid already came with 1/4" compression fittings so I didn't have to install any of those.  And the 20-ft SS braid I got from Lowe's was only $17.99, so cheaper than the copper....LOL.

Got the S.O.B. install completed last night around midnight.  Had to make another run to get a diamond hole saw to get through a small corner of my kitchen tile.  But I had a glass of ice water from the fridge before bed.    :thumbs:


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 9, 2016)

sounds good.  Time for a bourbon on the rocks!


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 23, 2016)

Would this be a good purchase? "Delta Shopmaster table saw, great condition, very little use, $65"

Then again, maybe not because I do not yet have a decent work bench to put it on. And I've seen others like this that have their own full size support table. :dunno:


----------



## kevo_55 (Aug 23, 2016)

That is a great deal. Buy it!


----------



## jeb6294 (Aug 23, 2016)

Meh...not a bad deal, but not a great one either. Reviews for it aren't great. It's half the price of the cheapest table saw at the Depot, but even the cheapest HD saw (Ryobi) has a stronger motor and it comes with the stand.


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 23, 2016)

Probably perfect for a typical homeowner use

I had a cheap one, made by skill, 99 bucks I ripped a shit load of hardwood flooring with that saw.. I put hardwood floors in my entire house and it worked fine


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 23, 2016)

And now I'm shopping for a work bench for this too...lol. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Seville-Classics-UltraHD-Lighted-Workbench/dp/B005NAVFEW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1471968097&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=work+bench

Thoughts?


----------



## kevo_55 (Aug 23, 2016)

Too Expensive.

Try this one: https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/tool-storage/work-supports-workbenches/xtreme-garage-6-metal-workbench/p-1444441777189-c-19492.htm?tid=9125239378547543869


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 23, 2016)

It's always cheaper to just

Build one- but if you get the one from Amazon please click on the eb.com Amazon link )


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 23, 2016)

kevo_55 said:


> Too Expensive.
> 
> Try this one: https://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/tool-storage/work-supports-workbenches/xtreme-garage-6-metal-workbench/p-1444441777189-c-19492.htm?tid=9125239378547543869


If only it had a light!



Road Guy said:


> It's always cheaper to just Build one-


Possibly. But I don't have a lot of the hardware which allow me to manipulate the raw materials. Nor do I have a vehicle equipped to carry said materials.


----------



## Supe (Aug 23, 2016)

Allow me to wave the bullshit flag...


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 23, 2016)

Supe said:


> Allow me to wave the bullshit flag...


You're more than welcome to drive that bike to MKE to help me carry stuff. Don't forget your recorder.


----------



## Supe (Aug 23, 2016)

I figured we'd take yours, now that it's fixed!  I promise to record you.  Even have a GoPro you can wear.


----------



## kevo_55 (Aug 23, 2016)

Hey, you can use the saw to build your own!!!!


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 23, 2016)

I got 10 bucks says he don't know how!


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 23, 2016)

Road Guy said:


> I got 10 bucks says he don't know how!


Don't you mean the $25 you'll be donating to me after the FF pool is over? :thumbs:


----------



## MA_PE (Aug 24, 2016)

knight1fox3 said:


> If only it had a light!
> 
> Possibly. But I don't have a lot of the hardware which allow me to manipulate the raw materials. Nor do I have a vehicle equipped to carry said materials.


you can buy a lot of light for the $130 difference.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Oct 17, 2016)

Got an older washer/dryer pair made by Amana. Purchased them new in 2005. The washer is starting to not finish its cycle. For instance, it never gets to the spin cycle so we'll open the door (top load) and find the drum completely full of water. If we manually set to off and then back to spin, it will drain like it's supposed to and continue on. 

Question is, is this something worthy of a repair or should I start looking for a replacement with it being 10+ years old. We've also noticed the clothes starting to smell a little funky lately too which I'm guessing could be attributed to various build-ups over time? Any thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Oct 17, 2016)

Don't buy a front load washer!!


----------



## Supe (Oct 17, 2016)

I agree with SW.  I hate mine.  Not being able to add close to a cycle sucks, and having to leave the door open constantly to prevent mildew sucks.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 17, 2016)

sometimes its good to be able to not afford the latest and greatest thing.. I am sure someone will tell me that Samsung makes the best washer and dryer but I have nearly 20 year old Maytags that do the job pretty well..


----------



## MA_PE (Oct 18, 2016)

KF:  Check the switch that senses if the top lid is open.  Our washer was doing something similar and that switch was stuck open so it didn't spin like it was supposed to.  It was ~$20 fix.  Try repairclinic.com.  10 years really isn't that old for washers/dryers IMHO.


----------



## snickerd3 (Oct 18, 2016)

i love my front loader!


----------



## mudpuppy (Oct 18, 2016)

I'd suggest looking into fixing it yourself.  Washers (and household appliances in general) aren't really all that complicated and you've got a background in controls.  It could simply be a switch like MA_PE says, or maybe the control board is going bad, or there's a bad contact in the timer or something.

I had a dryer that would randomly shut off, this went on for several years until at one point is just wouldn't start running at all.  Once I took it apart it was obvious the control board had failed as there was a charred resistor on it.  $65 later and an hour of my time saved the cost of a tech call or a new dryer.


----------



## matt267 PE (Oct 18, 2016)

You got this fox. It's basically a giant computer...with water.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 18, 2016)

You think someone that can't build their own workbench is going to be able to disassemble a washing machine?


----------



## matt267 PE (Oct 18, 2016)

Road Guy said:


> You think someone that can't build their own workbench is going to be able to disassemble a washing machine?


No comment.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Oct 18, 2016)

Road Guy said:


> You think someone that can't build their own workbench is going to be able to disassemble a washing machine?


I didn't say I couldn't build it. I said I didn't have the time/materials/tools to build it. If I can build a bridge girder complete with the single-failure proof overhead crane systems that employ frequency drive controls with dynamic braking resistor manipulation to handle spent uranium nuclear fuel, I think I can build a damn table with 4-point supports. It all comes down to opportunity cost. 

@MA_PE, @mudpuppy, thanks for the feedback. I will look into it but this is yet again one of those things where I just don't have the time. I've been on single parent duty the last month or so with a 2.5 year old. I'd probably need to take some vacation time (from one or all of my jobs) to really dig in to this. But then again, if it's just the lid indication switch, I probably have some of those in my inventory already. LOL


----------



## MA_PE (Oct 18, 2016)

knight1fox3 said:


> @MA_PE, @mudpuppy, thanks for the feedback. I will look into it but this is yet again one of those things where I just don't have the time. I've been on single parent duty the last month or so with a 2.5 year old. I'd probably need to take some vacation time (from one or all of my jobs) to really dig in to this. But then again, if it's just the lid indication switch, I probably have some of those in my inventory already. LOL


Easy.  Put the kin inside the washing machine tub while you take a look at it.  Fun for everybody!

Seriously, if the lid switch says the lid id open, then it won't spin.  Takes all of 2 seconds to see if the switch is opening/closing.  Good luck and I hope it's something simple.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Oct 19, 2016)

MA_PE said:


> Seriously, if the lid switch says the lid id open, then it won't spin.  Takes all of 2 seconds to see if the switch is opening/closing.  Good luck and I hope it's something simple.


So during the regular wash cycle, when I open the lid, it does stop. Which is dependent on the lid switch I assume. Once closed it continues washing. So I think that can be ruled out as the possible culprit. Are there volume level sensors? I wonder if it could attributed to something like that.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Oct 19, 2016)

The drain could be partially clogged??

The drain cycle is a timed event, so without optical sensors, you might have a babies sock stuck in your hose??


----------



## Dleg (Oct 19, 2016)

:blink2:


----------



## matt267 PE (Oct 19, 2016)

My dog gets baby socks stuck up his ass.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 19, 2016)

This is a family friendly forum people!


----------



## matt267 PE (Oct 19, 2016)

Is that so?


----------



## MA_PE (Oct 19, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> My dog gets baby socks stuck up his ass.


Pull them out.  Wash them.  Good to go.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Oct 20, 2016)

MA_PE said:


> Pull them out.  Wash them.  Good to go.


I can't! It never finishes the cycle! :lmao:


----------



## matt267 PE (Oct 20, 2016)

^ You could always hand wash


----------



## MA_PE (Oct 20, 2016)

knight1fox3 said:


> I can't! It never finishes the cycle! :lmao:


I was referring to Matt's dilemma with baby socks getting hung up in his dog's ass, but an infinite cycle could be his problem too.


----------



## MA_PE (Oct 20, 2016)

KF:

Let's go through each stage of the wash cycle and see where it hiccups.  To the best of my kjnowledge it goes like this.

Start

Tub fills with water.  Water depth is based on selected load size (small, medium or large).  There is a level sensor that stops the water inflow when the proper level is reached.

When tub is filled the agitator starts moving and churns for the wash portion of the Cycle.

Water is drained out. 

Rinse fills tub again.

Rinse empties and tib spins until all water i out of the tub.

So when does your washer misbehave?


----------



## knight1fox3 (Oct 20, 2016)

See below:



MA_PE said:


> KF:
> 
> Let's go through each stage of the wash cycle and see where it hiccups.  To the best of my knowledge it goes like this.
> 
> ...


----------



## kevo_55 (Oct 20, 2016)

KF, did you threaten it with a hammer yet?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Oct 20, 2016)

If you were to hook it to some 240 from it's neighbor (mr dryer), I think all your problems will be solved??


----------



## MA_PE (Oct 20, 2016)

220, 221 whatever it takes.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 27, 2016)

I never understood why they still used these cheap ass window blocks anymore...this is in the kids BR shower.. not sure if coming from inside or outside.. arghhh......


----------



## kevo_55 (Oct 27, 2016)

Got a fan in the bathroom?

This might just mean it's too humid in that area of the house. Those glass blocks are nothing like an insulated window.


----------



## Supe (Oct 27, 2016)

You could be getting accumulation from the top of the window box that's dripping down on the interior.  My ceiling had paint bubbling up and blistering.  Turns out my vent fan was only run to the soffit and not vented to the exterior.  As soon as the weather cooled down and I turned the fan on, it would condense and run down the drywall.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 27, 2016)

the fart fans run anytime the lights are on, but we don't have any humidity here.. well today we have 20%...The 1/2 inch of water inside is what concerns me    I figured I would have to replace these windows eventually but don't want them to crack in January when it 2 degrees..

we replaced the window above our sliding glass door that cracked and that was $600 bucks...


----------



## Supe (Oct 27, 2016)

It looks more like a splash than a leak at the bottom, so I would start by looking up and go from there.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 27, 2016)

yes the splash is just from a kid taking a shower this am, but if you look inside the block it is holding a decent amount of water inside the block (hasn't rained here in 3 weeks).. None of the other blocks above it have any condensation inside, my kids told me this lower block "has been like this all summer"  nice of them to let me know.......


----------



## Supe (Oct 28, 2016)

Ah, OK.  That makes more sense.


----------



## matt267 PE (Oct 28, 2016)

Drill a small hole in the bottom to drain the water so it won't freeze during the winter.

http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1079-DIY-Removing-condensation-from-inside-a-thermal-pane-window


----------



## Ship Wreck PE (Oct 28, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> Drill a small hole in the bottom to drain the water so it won't freeze during the winter.http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1079-DIY-Removing-condensation-from-inside-a-thermal-pane-window


Make sure to use a hammer drill and wear your safety glasses.


----------



## Dleg (Oct 28, 2016)

That's a lot of water accumulation for that size of a brick.  Based on what I learned in arctic engineering, it might be possible for that much water to accumulate from indoor humidity flux, but only if the outdoor air is really really dry, like it is at 20 below zero.  Not like it is at Denver summer humidities.  I'd be looking for something leaking into it from above (??) or outside.


----------



## Road Guy (Oct 28, 2016)

I think the seals have just gone to crap.. wife talked to some other people in the hood and several people have had to just replace the windows, were making calls and  guess well blow another $500 to $600 dollars...


----------



## HCrum87hc (Nov 1, 2016)

Road Guy said:


> I think the seals have just gone to crap.. wife talked to some other people in the hood and several people have had to just replace the windows, were making calls and  guess well blow another $500 to $600 dollars...


I'm also in the process of replacing an acrylic block window in our master bath.  Deposit has been paid, and we're waiting on them to come do the install.  Ours is about 3.5' x 3.5' and sits over our tub.  It's leaking through one of the seals in the bottom right corner during heavy, driving rains.  The window is roughly 15 years old, which is the age of the house.

I have an issue I'd like to get an opinion on from anyone with plumbing experience.  Recently, our pipes have started making a lot of noise, particularly after using our master bath shower.  You can hear them lightly vibrating off and on for about 10 minutes after showering, and it'll usually culminate with a big bang.  We also hear random, single bangs during the night when no water has been used.  My assumption is water hammer, but I was under the impression this only happens when running water is suddenly cut off.  I've tried draining all of the water out of the house, as recommended on a few DIY sites, but that didn't work.  Does anyone else have any ideas as to what may be causing this?


----------



## Supe (Nov 1, 2016)

Likely expansion based, and not much you can do without opening the walls up and changing clamps/insulation to minimize it.


----------



## matt267 PE (Nov 1, 2016)

- Do you think it's air trapped in the pipes somewhere?

- Or a small leak somewhere else?

- At my parents house, they were getting strange noises with the pipes out of nowhere. Turns out, some folding chairs were placed against the pipe and caused weird noised. So check that too.


----------



## HCrum87hc (Nov 1, 2016)

Supe said:


> Likely expansion based, and not much you can do without opening the walls up and changing clamps/insulation to minimize it.
> 
> *I was thinking this too.  I also wondered about the pressure in the pipes.  My gauge reads 80psi, which I've read is just on the high end of normal.*






matt267 PE said:


> - Do you think it's air trapped in the pipes somewhere? *Possible, but I'm not sure how to tell for certain.*
> 
> - Or a small leak somewhere else? *I don't think there's a leak anywhere, unless it's in a wall.  I checked all under the house and didn't see anything.  We had a small leak under the house that the previous owners fixed per our contract.  I rechecked it, and it's not leaking.*
> 
> - At my parents house, they were getting strange noises with the pipes out of nowhere. Turns out, some folding chairs were placed against the pipe and caused weird noised. So check that too.  *None of the pipes are exposed.*


The noises themselves don't bother me. My concern is they'll eventually spring a leak somewhere.  I can deal with a leak under the house, but I don't want to go tearing up walls.


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## matt267 PE (Nov 1, 2016)

After re-reading your post, I kind of agree with Supe in that the pipe may be expanding and contracting. Trying running the master shower with just cold water for a bit and see if you get the same noises after. Then trying running it with just hot water.

This might not explain the random noises at night though. But that could also be random settling/expansion/water heater stuff.


----------



## HCrum87hc (Nov 1, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> After re-reading your post, I kind of agree with Supe in that the pipe may be expanding and contracting. Trying running the master shower with just cold water for a bit and see if you get the same noises after. Then trying running it with just hot water.
> 
> This might not explain the random noises at night though. But that could also be random settling/expansion/water heater stuff.


Thanks for the responses.  I'll try the cold water in the shower tonight and see what happens.  I don't know if it's related or not, but just so you guys have all of the info, we did have the hot water heater replaced a little over a year and a half ago under our home warranty.  We also had an expansion tank installed at the time, so all of that is fairly new.


----------



## wilheldp_PE (Nov 1, 2016)

If you run that test, and the noise is being caused by the hot water, there are expansion tanks that you can install on the  pipes near the water heater that should alleviate the problem.


----------



## matt267 PE (Nov 1, 2016)

wilheldp_PE said:


> If you run that test, and the noise is being caused by the hot water, there are expansion tanks that you can install on the  pipes near the water heater that should alleviate the problem.


Unless the plumbers who installed the new water heater over tightened the pipe hangers. This would cause friction as the copper expands and contracts.


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## HCrum87hc (Nov 1, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> After re-reading your post, I kind of agree with Supe in that the pipe may be expanding and contracting. Trying running the master shower with just cold water for a bit and see if you get the same noises after. Then trying running it with just hot water.
> 
> This might not explain the random noises at night though. But that could also be random settling/expansion/water heater stuff.


I tried running it with just cold water. I occurred to me that since my shower only has one knob that controls the water temperature instead of separate hot and cold knows, hot water may be used even on the lowest setting, which I tried. I still got some vibration sounds, but it didn't last as long as it usually does.


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## HCrum87hc (Nov 1, 2016)

I just went back in the bathroom a few minutes after turning the shower off, and the shower head was dripping decently. I checked the knob, and it was all the way off. I turned it on and right back off, and it quit dripping. I don't know if that's relevant or not.


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## Supe (Nov 2, 2016)

Are you sure its coming from pipes?  A bad cartridge in a fixture can do some weird things too.


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## P-E (Nov 2, 2016)

Yes an old cartridge can cause loud water hammer type noises.  Usually when turning the water on and off.  I had one replaced last year.  Noises gone.


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## matt267 PE (Nov 2, 2016)

@HCrum87hc,

I was really hoping it was caused by copper pipes expanding and contracting. You mentioned that you have high service pressure. Does your house have a pressure reducer? Maybe it's failing/failed? Or, like SUPE and P-E said, it could be a bad faucet.

You might be interested in the following links:

http://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Plumbing_Noises.php

http://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Plumbing_Noise_Checklist.php

Lots of info on inspectapedia.com. But be careful, I spent way too much time there when I first bought my house. It was making my OCD go into overdrive.


----------



## Supe (Nov 2, 2016)

And of course, don't rule out ghosts.


----------



## jeb6294 (Nov 2, 2016)

Picked one of these up at HD last night.







They wouldn't let me use my 20% Harbor Freight coupon (I'd heard some would still let you use them, some won't) but I was at least able to get my 10% military discount which got it down to $500.

The wife has been wanting to jump up to a king size bed and I'd found a website with some pretty easy plans to build one. We are also in desperate need of an organizer in our closet. I checked a design-it-yourself place online that was pretty nice...lets you design the whole thing and then they send it to you to install...but it was over $2,500. I checked the ClosetMaid stuff while I was at HD and even that would be over $1,000 and you can't customize it very much. For $1,000, I can pay for the saw and build my own organizer out of solid pine instead of the particle board crap they use in the kits.


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## snickerd3 (Nov 2, 2016)

once you go king, you will never go back!  I love our king size bed.


----------



## Supe (Nov 2, 2016)

jeb6294 said:


> Picked one of these up at HD last night.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Really interested in what you come up with for the closet organizer.  Build that first!  Our closet is a disaster, and I'm convinced that wire rack shelving is the most useless shit ever made.


----------



## jeb6294 (Nov 2, 2016)

The places online are nice enough to give you a picture of what the three walls would look like with some dimensions so I'm going to use those when I put mine together. I just can't understand why those kits are so un-godly expensive for what you get. The website with the bed plans, ana-whie.com, also has some closet organizers, They are really nothing more than oversized bookshelves with hanging rods. The hardest part should be getting the drawers right.


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## Supe (Nov 2, 2016)

jeb6294 said:


> The places online are nice enough to give you a picture of what the three walls would look like with some dimensions so I'm going to use those when I put mine together. I just can't understand why those kits are so un-godly expensive for what you get. The website with the bed plans, ana-whie.com, also has some closet organizers, They are really nothing more than oversized bookshelves with hanging rods. The hardest part should be getting the drawers right.


Drawers are a PITA.  I'd opt for cubbies with baskets instead.  What kills us right now in there is zero utilization of corner space and single clothing racks instead of a top/bottom on each side.  But, I am also limited by my attic crawlspace entryway, which I can't block.


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## snickerd3 (Nov 2, 2016)

we have no problems with the white wire shelf/hang stuff.  We have a double layer hang on the long wall of the closer with the curved rail on the upper in the corner with like 4 of the wire shelfs on the short wall.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Nov 2, 2016)

jeb6294 said:


> Picked one of these up at HD last night.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Let us know how you like it. Been looking to get something like that so I can take on more home projects.


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## HCrum87hc (Nov 2, 2016)

matt267 PE said:


> @HCrum87hc,
> 
> I was really hoping it was caused by copper pipes expanding and contracting. You mentioned that you have high service pressure. Does your house have a pressure reducer? Maybe it's failing/failed? Or, like SUPE and P-E said, it could be a bad faucet.
> 
> ...


Hmmm you guys may be onto something with the cartridge.  My shower head is leaking some after showering.  I believe I do have a PRV at the water meter.  I'll have to check that out.  You shouldn't have linked that inspectapedia site.  That'll be like WebMD for your house.  Headache? WebMD says it's cancer.


----------



## matt267 PE (Nov 2, 2016)

HCrum87hc said:


> You shouldn't have linked that inspectapedia site.


Sorry. But I did warn you.


----------



## Supe (Nov 2, 2016)

snickerd3 said:


> we have no problems with the white wire shelf/hang stuff.  We have a double layer hang on the long wall of the closer with the curved rail on the upper in the corner with like 4 of the wire shelfs on the short wall.


Ours are poorly laid out by the previous owners and wrinkle/leave lines in anything we stack on them.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 2, 2016)

The wire stuff is okay. I actually put it in the hall closet, but just shelves. It's kind of like the particle board stuff though...very pricey for what you're getting...especially when you're doing a whole walk in closet. We also need drawers along with our hanging stuff.

The wife is already complaining about the lack of drawer space, and with just one dresser in the bedroom, I have to agree. I'm looking to add some drawer space on each side of the closet so we each have 3 or 4 drawers for stuff like socks and underwear, Building the actual drawers should be pretty easy, especially with a decent table saw. My biggest thing is going to be figuring out the spacing.

I checked *a lot* of reviews and YouTube videos and it sounds like a really nice saw. It had some issues with blade alignment for a while, but all those comments were from several years ago and it sounds like they fixed the cause. Thing ways over 500 pounds so I was having some fun trying to get it on the dolly. There was another guy in the tool aisle who came over and gave me a hand. He told me he has the same saw and loves it, and based on his shirt, he looked like a professional contractor.


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## Road Guy (Nov 2, 2016)

I miss my table saw, sold it when I did the big move, it was really useful. I had the cheaper one that Delta sells but I never realized how much I used that thing until I didn't have it anymore..


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## snickerd3 (Nov 2, 2016)

Road Guy said:


> I miss my table saw, sold it when I did the big move, it was really useful. I had the cheaper one that Delta sells but I never realized how much I used that thing until I didn't have it anymore..


that's usually the way things work out


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## jeb6294 (Nov 3, 2016)

It's one of those things that I had wished I'd had in the past during certain projects around the house, but just ended up making do with the circular saw. After I started thinking about making some of this stuff for the house instead of buying it, I went ahead and pulled the trigger.

It seems like it should be a nice compromise...more work area than one of those folding job site saws, but with retracting wheels so it's more portable than a cabinet saw.


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## Road Guy (Mar 6, 2017)

Anyone else seen or have a gas hot water heater that doesn't have a thermostat?

I've searched all over mine and can't find one. I am wondering if it's some "eco friendly" version that my quasi hippy government mandated?


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## ptatohed (Mar 7, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> Anyone else seen or have a gas hot water heater that doesn't have a thermostat?
> 
> I've searched all over mine and can't find one. I am wondering if it's some "eco friendly" version that my quasi hippy government mandated?


It's a water heater, not a hot water heater!


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## Ship Wreck PE (Mar 7, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> Anyone else seen or have a gas hot water heater that doesn't have a thermostat?I've searched all over mine and can't find one. I am wondering if it's some "eco friendly" version that my quasi hippy government mandated?


Do you have a picture of her?


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## mudpuppy (Mar 7, 2017)

ptatohed said:


> It's a water heater, not a hot water heater!




I've had this same argument here on EB and lost.


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## P-E (Mar 7, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> Anyone else seen or have a gas hot water heater that doesn't have a thermostat?
> 
> I've searched all over mine and can't find one. I am wondering if it's some "eco friendly" version that my quasi hippy government mandated?


No temp dial at the burner?


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## MA_PE (Mar 7, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> Anyone else seen or have a gas hot water heater that doesn't have a thermostat?
> 
> I've searched all over mine and can't find one. I am wondering if it's some "eco friendly" version that my quasi hippy government mandated?


The water temperature needs to be regulated somewhere.  At our previous house we had tankless hot water and when we upgraded the system they added a "boiler buddy" which was essentially a storage tank for the "tankless" system.  I was a full size tank that operated as another heating zone where it filled with hot water and if it cooled would exchange through the boiler to maintain temperature.  I do not recall if it had a separate thermostat.  Does your tank have a brand and model number?  The Instructions for the unit should say how the temperature is set.


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## Dleg (Mar 7, 2017)

mudpuppy said:


> I've had this same argument here on EB and lost.


that's because a hot water heater heats the hot water.

Duh.


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## mudpuppy (Mar 8, 2017)

Dleg said:


> that's because a hot water heater heats the hot water.
> 
> Duh.




But the input water isn't hot, so it's actually heating cold water.  We should call it a cold water heater.


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## snickerd3 (Mar 8, 2017)

water heater or hot water tank are the usual terms i use


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## MA_PE (Mar 8, 2017)

why do they call them a pair of pants when there's only one garment?


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## snickerd3 (Mar 8, 2017)

MA_PE said:


> why do they call them a pair of pants when there's only one garment?


because they used to be two separate garments....like leg socks tied around the waist to keep them in place.


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## MA_PE (Mar 8, 2017)

snickerd3 said:


> because they used to be two separate garments....like leg socks tied around the waist to keep them in place.


why is it a pair of panties, but only one bra?


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## snickerd3 (Mar 8, 2017)

MA_PE said:


> why is it a pair of panties, but only one bra?


because we only have one torso/rib cage.


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## MA_PE (Mar 8, 2017)

Why do they call it rush hour when traffic is all congested?


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## snickerd3 (Mar 8, 2017)

MA_PE said:


> Why do they call it rush hour when traffic is all congested?


This could be a rather fun thread idea all by itself...why is this?


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## Road Guy (Mar 8, 2017)

so back to the original fucking problem!

I stripped the insulation blanket off the "hot water heater" and there isn't anything external that would allow me to adjust anything. actually the only thing I see that I can touch is the pressure release valve? I removed a few outer panels but that didn't reveal anything?

I will grab some photos next time I am in the basement..  Were doing our basement this spring so I may just have them put in the tankless "hot water heater" and be done with this..


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## MA_PE (Mar 8, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> so back to the original fucking problem!
> 
> I stripped the insulation blanket off the "hot water heater" and there isn't anything external that would allow me to adjust anything. actually the only thing I see that I can touch is the pressure release valve? I removed a few outer panels but that didn't reveal anything?
> 
> I will grab some photos next time I am in the basement..  Were doing our basement this spring so I may just have them put in the tankless "hot water heater" and be done with this..


Is this in fact a separate hot water heater?  Gas or electric?  There must be some controls where the power goes to the heater.


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## Ship Wreck PE (Mar 8, 2017)

It might be a basement still.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 9, 2017)

There's gotta be something external on the tank where the gas line ties in.  It's been several years, but my old house had a gas water heater and it had a little box where the gas line tied in that was basically a regulator/pilot light/thermostat.


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## Dleg (Mar 13, 2017)

I was inspired by this thread to install a new bathroom fan / light in our second bathroom this weekend.  The old fan sounded it was trying to take off at the airport, but it moved virtually no air.  The kids could take a shower, and even an hour later the bathroom would still be steamy with the fan droning away.  So I headed down to Home Depot and picked up a NuTone 80 cfm, 0.8 Sone fan / light combo, mostly because it was the quietest-rated "medium" fan on display.  It took me about 3 hours of actual work to install, but about 6 hours of my Sunday including Youtube research to get my courage up, two trips to Home Depot and clean up, since I made a fricking mess sawing out the larger opening in the ceiling that it required.  I also installed an occupancy sensor switch for the light, and a timer switch for the fan, which added another 30 minutes or so.

The new fan is way quieter than the old one and moves plenty of air for the size of the bathroom (about 60 square feet, so 1.3 cfm/sf).  I "tested" it yesterday and it was extremely satisfying.  The old fan had become disconnected from the duct, too, so I guess I should be glad it didn't move much air, because otherwise I hate to think of what might be going on up in my attic after 6 months of extreme cold...

The occupancy sensor on the light seems to work well, but I haven't tried disappearing behind the shower curtain yet to see if it shuts off when showering.  It is sensitive enough to not shut off when on the throne for more than the one-minute time out I programmed...  The timer switch on the fan is a bit of a compromise.  I wanted to get a humidity sensing switch but I chickened out, after reading a few reviews of those things being tricky to set up and adjust.  I figured the timer is simple enough and I didn't want to deal with constantly adjusting something, but I'd like to hear if anyone else has any experience with them.


----------



## Road Guy (Mar 13, 2017)

so is the timer based on a motion sensor? i.e. someone walks in, fan and light kick on?

My bathrooms were all wired so that anytime the lights are on the fart fans are on, which is kind of annoying sometimes, but maybe for the greater good..

Oh &amp; to update my "hot" water heater issue,  I took off the insulation wrap for the 3rd time and found a perfectly sized square sticker on the back of the unit, the previous owner had placed one of those "service schedule" stickers directly over the compartment that housed the thermostat. Maybe for them that's how they found it but the way the sticker was placed you couldn't really tell there was a panel there (it was only maybe 4" X 4") so found that and adjusted the setting in between Hot and Very Hot..

It also helped that I looked during the day time when I could see a little better and not when it was pitch black out and 2 40 watt bulbs "lighting" the basement..


----------



## Dleg (Mar 13, 2017)

Nope, two separate switches - the motion sensor is for the light only, and is programmed (by me) to shut off 1 minute after it senses no one is there anymore.  the off timer can be adjusted, though, maybe up to 45 min?  So maybe that would work for a fan, too.  The fan is on a separate timer switch that turns on with a push, and can be adjusted with a set of side buttons to provide time-to-off intervals of 5 min up to 60 min, or set to just be on all the time.  If you push the button again after turning it on, it turns off, so in that way you can defeat the timer.


----------



## Supe (Mar 14, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> the previous owner had placed one of those "service schedule" stickers directly over the compartment that housed the thermostat


I'm betting the guys who did the plumbing put it there on purpose, thinking "these dipshits won't be able to adjust the water heater.  This will make them call us to "fix" it so we can charge them."


----------



## P-E (Mar 14, 2017)

Ship Wreck PE said:


> It might be a basement still.


Yes, does your water have a vodka taste?


----------



## knight1fox3 (Mar 23, 2017)

Operation "Improve KF Home Efficiency" is nearly complete. Done so far:


Most lighting changed to LED (even under-cabinet puck lights and my 4ft tube lights) with the exception of the backyard flood. The LED flood replacement just can't quite put out the same amount light (w/o a complete retrofit).

All faucets changed and added H2O efficient shower heads

All windows replaced with the exception of the patio door (planned for this year)

New high efficiency 2-stage furnace installed with Aprilaire humidification system (Nest controlled)

Nest fire &amp; CO protection system installed

Phew.....


----------



## snickerd3 (Mar 23, 2017)

new driveway and back patio are our home improvement plans this year.  the 30+ yr old concrete is literally crumbling and in many places sunk leaning towards the house so when it rains it puddles/flows near the house.


----------



## Supe (Mar 23, 2017)

Need to decide what to do with my driveway.  Have a lot of rust stains from leaking batteries and grinding dust.  Toss up between ardex resurfacing, or playing with muriatic acid followed by a pressure wash.


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## kevo_55 (Mar 23, 2017)

I need to have my driveway resealed this year. I'm also looking at getting an upgrade with my electrical service.


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## Dleg (Mar 23, 2017)

I need a new electrical panel and some re-wiring of circuits in my house.  I have no idea what the original builder was thinking, but there are some screwy circuits in my house, and the panel is so full I can't do anything about it.  I feel like I probably should use an electrician for that work, but a part of me thinks I could do it myself: most of the wiring is Romex and easily accessible in the crawlspace.  I'm mostly afraid I'll do something not to code and then not be able to pass a home inspection when it's time to sell.


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## kevo_55 (Mar 23, 2017)

^^ I don't know about AK but in MN you can do all of your own wiring but if you want to hook a circuit up to the box, you need a licensed electrician.


----------



## mudpuppy (Mar 23, 2017)

Dleg said:


> I need a new electrical panel and some re-wiring of circuits in my house.  I have no idea what the original builder was thinking, but there are some screwy circuits in my house, and the panel is so full I can't do anything about it.  I feel like I probably should use an electrician for that work, but a part of me thinks I could do it myself: most of the wiring is Romex and easily accessible in the crawlspace.  I'm mostly afraid I'll do something not to code and then not be able to pass a home inspection when it's time to sell.


Replacing the main panel can open a big can of worms.  In order to replace the panel, you have to pull the meter.  The utility should be the one to pull the meter, and they might want to see an inspector's sign-off before they reinstall the meter (I know my utility (which is also my employer) requires that).  That means you're going to have to pull a permit, which means you'd better get your code book out and make sure everything you do is correct, or you're going to be sitting there with no electricity for as long as it takes you to fix everything the inspector wants.

But if you don't want to replace your main panel and just want to install a new sub-panel, you might be able to do that yourself depending on your local codes.

I was in this situation a couple years ago.  In my case the meter socket went bad.  To replace the meter socket you have to have the utility disconnect at the weatherhead, and again, they required a sign off from an inspector to reconnect.  My service cable was so old (cloth insulated) that I doubt an inspector would approve it, so it also had to be replaced.  Then it turns out they don't even offer 65 A services any more, so my main panel had to be replaced.  It probably would have taken me several days to do this work myself, meantime with no electricity.  So I hired an electrician, which ended up only being $1000 for the new service and a new 100 A panel (with permit) and was all done in a day.


----------



## Dleg (Mar 23, 2017)

That's not bad.  My main disconnect/main breaker is located at my service entrance, and needs replacement - as I found out when I added a simple little transfer switch for my boiler last year.  I shut off the main breaker to do the work, and when I turned it back on, I had no power.  My neighbor is a retired lineman, and I called him over to take a look.  He switched it on and off a couple of times, moving it slowly, and finally got it to engage and turn the power back on.  That kind of worried me...

Yeah, I will probably not mess with this myself.  I thought about adding a sub panel, but I like the thought of replacing with a right-sized, new panel.  But you're right, there's too much that can go wrong and leave me without power for several days while i try to correct stuff (or worse).


----------



## Road Guy (Mar 23, 2017)

I don't mess with 220.

I had a large sub panel put in when I did my basement and adding breakers and running the new lines to the breakers in the box was pretty straightforward.

Maybe you can get someone to install the new panel and hook up the 220 but then you could run all the breakers and wires and such yourself? it just takes some patience...


----------



## Dleg (Mar 23, 2017)

Yeah, I am not intimidated at all about running the new Romex and/or modifying circuits in the crawlspace, or hooking them up to a new sub-panel.  I think I know enough of the relevant Code to do that properly.  But seriously, the number of outlets and lights on some of my circuits is way beyond anything I thought was OK by Code.  I think this was done by the original contractor to accommodate some special owner requests for multiple woodworking equipment circuits in the garage (3 separate circuits in addition to the garage lighting / openers), and oddball stuff like a fishpond, hot tub, and sauna that are no longer there, but whose circuits were re-purposed for an addition to the kitchen and master bedroom.  I have something like 3 separate circuits for my master bedroom, and 4 or 5 for my kitchen, while the garage, lower bath, and kitchen lights are all on one shared circuit (with a GFCI in the garage that took my inspector forever to find), and the lights and outlets in the rest of my shared living space are all on one circuit.


----------



## Road Guy (Mar 23, 2017)

did you get an inspection when you bought your house? (not that those are really worth much)  If you are not having breakers constantly trip its probably ok.  I don't think they leave much room in the panel these days, I've got like two open spots in mine.

for what its worth when I was getting basement quotes for my current house, the cheapest price for installing a sub panel was $2K.  I think that's just the crazy Denver market, I only paid $500 bucks for adding a sub panel at my Atlanta house (but that was me basically doing the wiring as mentioned above)


----------



## Dleg (Mar 23, 2017)

Yeah, I had an inspection (by a civil engineer).  He looked at the panel, plugged the GFCI tester in several outlets, looked at the wiring in the crawlspace but that was about it.  He didn't go around and determine how many outlets were on each circuit, etc, although as I mentioned he did discover the strange combo of areas that were connected to the garage circuit.  

The circuit never trips out, even when we run a vacuum or iron on the big circuits, so I am not worried about safety or anything (this house was build in 86, so pretty good record of trouble-free operation).  I just would like to see a few more circuits so i can have a more logical layout and some more capacity. for example when I installed my new bathroom fan a couple weeks ago, it took me switching about 8 breakers until I found the right one (labeled garage), and then half the lights in our living area and kitchen were off for ~4 hours while I did my work. That just doesn't make much sense to me - I'd like to see a bahtroom on its own circuit, with its own GFCI.


----------



## mudpuppy (Mar 23, 2017)

Dleg said:


> I just would like to see a few more circuits so i can have a more logical layout and some more capacity. for example when I installed my new bathroom fan a couple weeks ago, it took me switching about 8 breakers until I found the right one (labeled garage), and then half the lights in our living area and kitchen were off for ~4 hours while I did my work. That just doesn't make much sense to me - I'd like to see a bahtroom on its own circuit, with its own GFCI.




I find it nice not to have everything in one room on the same circuit, because it's a pain when you flip the breaker and all the lights and outlets in that room go off and you've got to work on stuff by flashlight.  Much easier when you can plug a lamp into an outlet and/or keep the overhead lights on.  I suppose there's always extension cords for that, though.

As for the number of outlets and lights on one circuit, there's definitely limits to that in the code--I vaguely remember some of it from the PE exam but I'd have to dig out the code book to look it up again.

My panel was fairly small--100 A service with 15 breakers or so, but even still I was shocked [pun] they only charged $1k for it.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Mar 23, 2017)

mudpuppy said:


> As for the number of outlets and lights on one circuit, there's definitely limits to that in the code--I vaguely remember some of it from the PE exam but I'd have to dig out the code book to look it up again.


Negative red leader. The NEC doesn't limit the actual number of receptacle and lighting outlets on a general-purpose branch circuit in a dwelling unit. It's based more on power available. In that regard, one can certainly apply the code in this fashion: take the sq footage and multiply it by 3VA (per NEC T220.12). Example: 1200sq ft dwell (3VA)= 3600VA. Then take the ampacity size of the lighting breaker (which is 15 or 20 amps) and multiply it by the corresponding voltage (120V) being applied. Example: 15A(120V)= 1800VA. Then divide: 3600VA/1800VA = 2 circuits. Also note NEC 220.42 where it tells you that a demand factor from T220.42 shall not apply for general illumination.


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## Dleg (Mar 23, 2017)

Yeah but what about my "1600 Watt" Velodyne subwoofer?  (I am pretty sure that thing has never drawn anywhere near that power).


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## Road Guy (Mar 23, 2017)

That's when you need a dicfur.


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## Ble_PE (Mar 23, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> That's when you need a dicfur.


Wait a minute, are you trying to get us to ask "what's a dicfur?"?


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## Road Guy (Mar 23, 2017)

Since you asked..

For baby making!!!!


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## mudpuppy (Mar 24, 2017)

knight1fox3 said:


> Negative red leader. The NEC doesn't limit the actual number of receptacle and lighting outlets on a general-purpose branch circuit in a dwelling unit. It's based more on power available. In that regard, one can certainly apply the code in this fashion: take the sq footage and multiply it by 3VA (per NEC T220.12). Example: 1200sq ft dwell (3VA)= 3600VA. Then take the ampacity size of the lighting breaker (which is 15 or 20 amps) and multiply it by the corresponding voltage (120V) being applied. Example: 15A(120V)= 1800VA. Then divide: 3600VA/1800VA = 2 circuits. Also note NEC 220.42 where it tells you that a demand factor from T220.42 shall not apply for general illumination.




You're correct.  I was mis-remembering the general lighting load rather then outlets.


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## MA_PE (Mar 24, 2017)

how many outlets for 221?


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## Road Guy (Mar 24, 2017)

Number of outlets =  (221) / (woobie)^1/2


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## Road Guy (Jul 17, 2017)

anyone bought oak (unfinished) hard wood flooring lately?

I am about to start doing a few rooms this summer in our house in hardwood and I checked the prices and HFS have they gone up!  around $3.50 / SF for the unfinished red oak stuff is the best I have been able to find?  I went back and checked my notes from my old house and the high grade stuff was $2 bucks a SF? (This was 6+ years ago) but has it really gone up that much?


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## snickerd3 (Jul 17, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> anyone bought oak (unfinished) hard wood flooring lately?
> 
> I am about to start doing a few rooms this summer in our house in hardwood and I checked the prices and HFS have they gone up!  around $3.50 / SF for the unfinished red oak stuff is the best I have been able to find?  I went back and checked my notes from my old house and the high grade stuff was $2 bucks a SF? (This was 6+ years ago) but has it really gone up that much?


location location location


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## Road Guy (Jul 17, 2017)

so you are saying I need to be closer to the oak trees? 

I have enjoyed my last 4 years of home ownership with no projects... wife is all in the mood to replace floors, paint, install a fireplace, gonna be a long end of summer / fall..

I am glad my kids are all of age to do the "heavy lifting"


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## jeb6294 (Jul 28, 2017)

jeb6294 said:


> Picked one of these up at HD last night.


Put the saw to good use and I can say that the Kreg pocket screw jig that was all over TV for a while is great.  We wanted to bump up to a king size bed but couldn't find one that we liked.  Found a website with a lot of pretty good furniture plans and made one myself out of good ol' fashion pine with no press board/particle board/plywood in sight.  I did manage to put my Engineering skills to (limited) use...the plans were for a queen so I had to revise the dimensions and the plans actually had 6-foot posts at all 4 corners which neither of us liked.

Bed went together fine.  We did have a bit of an issue with the mattress though.  Mrs. Jeb6294 found a memory foam one she liked on Amazon and it had really good reviews..  It was only ~$450 so it wasn't even terrible expensive, especially for a nice foam mattress.  Amazon Prime Day it shows up on her list of deals for $208 so she jumped all over it.  Only problem is that it has to be taken out of the box so it can expand within 24 hours of getting it and the bed was still getting painted.  No problem, we'll just throw it down in the basement.  1. A memory foam mattress folded and vacuum packed into a 2'x2'x4' box goes down into a basement really easily.  2. A fully expanded king size mattress is too big to get out of a basement.  Fortunately, being a foam mattress we found out that it was very easy to fold it in half.  Threw a ratchet strap around it to keep it folded and we had it out of the basement and upstairs to our bedroom in 2 minutes.


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## Road Guy (Jul 28, 2017)

that's solid work! very nice!

when we were moving in to our current house the wife bought a similar mattress from Costco and didn't want to wait on me to help her drag it upstairs and this happened:




 it was probably for the best as we replaced that white railing with the iron stuff.. but I was still like WTF couldn't you wait an hour?


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## Road Guy (Jul 28, 2017)

&amp; did you use some plans for that bed? or just make it up as you went along?


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## jeb6294 (Jul 31, 2017)

Started with plans and then did a little customizing as I went.  Site called http://www.ana-white.com has a ton of stuff.

Our old queen size mattress was a Costco mattress too.  Fortunately it was just a replacement so it went right upstairs while it was still in the box.  The stairs are a straight shot though so no demolished handrails.  Our old bed got moved down the hall to the middle kid's room.  Middle kid, but also the biggest kid, was still on a twin so he got the upgrade.


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## Supe (Jul 31, 2017)

Ana White has some good projects on there, and very well detailed.  I can't remember if I've actually built any of them, but I've been to that site tons of times.


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## Road Guy (Jul 31, 2017)

I don't have any fully finished photos but the replacement we did had a much better look even before my wife smashed them to pieces!




I'm going to be getting a new table saw to do some wood floors and the steps you see in the picture and Id like to try my hand at a bed - my oldest goes off to college next year and we were going to convert his room to more of a traditional guest bed room and right now we just have his full mattress on a frame and no headboard.. I will check those sites out!


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## Road Guy (Sep 1, 2017)

So while I was out of town (this always seems to happen) the outlets in our bathroom stopped working, wife flipped the breaker, still nothing, reset the GFI, still nothing..

 

Get back home and plug in my tester and it displays this: 




(says hot and ground are reversed) – so how could something work for 4 years (since we bought the house) and then all of sudden not work?

 

I haven’t taken the outlet apart to see if it is just broken, but its getting power but not working? 

 

Could it have worked previously in this condition and then just all of sudden decide that it couldn’t work the way it was originally wired? – Its very strange..


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## kevo_55 (Sep 1, 2017)

How old are the GFI's?

I heard that they should be replaced every 10 years.

I'm no electrician but I'd say that they are just old &amp; worn out.


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## matt267 PE (Sep 1, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> hot and ground are reversed


that sounds dangerous. 

Maybe a neutral connection somewhere that bad: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeImprovement/comments/1reczo/strange_hotground_reverse_issue/


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## Road Guy (Sep 1, 2017)

What’s even weirder to me is that our master bath shares a GFI with the other upstairs bathroom (I didn’t even think that was allowed)  those outlets in the other bathroom work fine.

House is around 10 years old and I was going to just replace the outlets this weekend - there isn’t a GFI in our actual bathroom.  But we do have some sort of GFI built into the circuit panels where the breaker is.

Maybe they were wired like this all along and it just finally gave out. Just odd to me that it would be wired incorrectly for so long and just start acting up.  I went around checking all the other outlets in the house and several have some issue.. not sure what the point in having  “building inspectors” or home inspections done to be honest..


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## aog (Sep 1, 2017)

I have had to replace GFCI outlets that went bad.  My experience was that the they would not reset, so my GFCI tester did not show the hot/neutral reversed.


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## Supe (Sep 5, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> What’s even weirder to me is that our master bath shares a GFI with the other upstairs bathroom (I didn’t even think that was allowed)  those outlets in the other bathroom work fine.


No surprised.  Our downstairs kitchen and half bath shares a GFI with the upstairs bathroom.  Nothing like trying to figure out that your wife's hair dryer is the reason your coffee pot won't turn on.


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## mudpuppy (Sep 5, 2017)

Hot and ground swapped is a very bad thing, you're basically energizing the conductor that's supposed to keep you from getting electrocuted.  I can't see how anything would work correctly like this, though, because there's generally no path for current to flow between the hot and ground.  If the tester is working correctly I'd try to get this fixed ASAP.


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## Road Guy (Sep 5, 2017)

I took all of these apart and it appeared to be wired correctly, but the builder had tried to put so many wires in one wiring nut that some had become loose and I believe that's all that it was. I  went ahead and replaced the outlets and got the correct size wire nut and it appeared to be working.  So I think it was just the hot wire falling out the nut and grazing against the ground..

It was also nice of the builder to let the Painter spray paint right into all of the electrical junctions boxes..


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## Dexman PE PMP (Sep 5, 2017)

Supe said:


> No surprised.  Our downstairs kitchen and half bath shares a GFI with the upstairs bathroom.  Nothing like trying to figure out that your wife's hair dryer is the reason your coffee pot won't turn on.


The GFI in the basement was the reason why the power would die in the garage. It was just a bad outlet and we had to replace it despite it being only a year old.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 15, 2017)

Short version:  How hard do you suppose it would be to replace about 15-ft of 4-in cast iron sewer lateral with 4-in PVC DIY style?  Depth is no more than about 3-ft and would have to tunnel about 3-ft under the edge of a front concrete patio to connect.

The sanitary connection to the house is screwed.  Wife called me at work Thursday afternoon to tell me the utility tub in the laundry room wasn't draining...of course it had to be right before Veteran's Day weekend because stuff like this always happens when everyone is closed.  By the time I got home the sink was empty, but checked the trap on the sink hoping it was just lint/dog hair since the washing machine drains to the tub.  Trap was fine so next thought is that it's something down the line and it's backing up into the house since the utility tub is the lowest thing in the house.  The 4" cast line is suspended along the basement wall and then drops into the 4" cast line that actually leaves through the basement wall.  Where it tee's into the line there's a cleanout on the end of the pipe so I veerrryyyy carefully took the cap off the cleanout.  Nothing in the line, but when I looked, the line just outside the hose is no longer connected and is about 2-inches higher than the house line.  We are at the bottom of the street and the yard keeps sloping on past the house, so it looks like the house has settled some over the last 50 years and pulled the sewer connection out of whack.

Was able to get someone out to look at it on Monday.  He was able to run a camera through so his first thought was that there was a clog but the head pressure cleared it out.  Pipe connection is definitely bad.  He used the locator to find where the connection is off and where the cast pipe looks like it is back to being in good shape.  I didn't measure, but it looks like it is no more than 10-15 feet of pipe and the locator showed the depth as 2'-4" at the first 90 and 2'-10" where the good pipe was.  He couldn't get a depth where the break was under the patio.  His quote to fix it was ~$5,500.  Seems like an awful lot for what, when you get down to it, seems like it shouldn't be terribly difficult.


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## Supe (Nov 15, 2017)

It still ends up being a big job time-wise if you're doing it on your own.  You'll pay for utilities to be marked and rental of the excavating equipment, and then the temporary shoring.  Going three feet under the patio may very well end up with some damage.  I guess it depends just how much time you have to fart around with it.


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## MA_PE (Nov 15, 2017)

so is the break under the patio?  Does hos $5500 estimate include a new concrete patio area?

I'd think the best way to approach it is to sawcut the concrete patio to gain access to the pipe.  Install a new section with flexible couplings and to reestablish grade.  Back fill and pour a new patio section.

Difficult?  not really but not a small job for the DIYer IMHO.  $5500 sounds reasonable and get a guarantee about grade/settlement/cracking of the patio as well as that the pipe does have a high point that will slope back towards the house from the repair area.


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## Jbone27 PE (Nov 15, 2017)

I could see getting to the pipe under the patio not being to terrible but I am not sure how you would get any compaction when backfilling it. May look at using one of the residential leveling jacks to support that section of concrete and just leave it in place. I think they are fairly cheap.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 15, 2017)

The break is under the patio, but $5,500 was them going under the patio and staying within the confines of the driveway/sidewalk, so no concrete work.  He put flags at the first 90 and where the cast gets better and he wrote the depth he was getting.  That's where the 2'-4" and 2'-10" came from.

Considering the shallow depth and short run, it almost seems do-able with a shovel.  We just planted a little tree in that bed which I would want to try and transplant to at least try and save it.  Right there, a good bit of your digging is done.  The place up the street from work rents a mini-excavator for $180/day.

In the picture I did, the top of the concrete patio is lines up with the top of the concrete foundation where it butts up to the side of the garage so ideally, the patio should be pinned to the concrete along the back and side.  I figured the biggest problem would be digging it out so there was enough room to get under there and make the actual connection.  The whole excavated area would be pea gravel or sand under the new pipe anyway, what if I went back in with sand or pea gravel under the patio?


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## Dleg (Nov 15, 2017)

MA_PE said:


> so is the break under the patio?  Does hos $5500 estimate include a new concrete patio area?
> 
> I'd think the best way to approach it is to sawcut the concrete patio to gain access to the pipe.  *Install a new section with flexible couplings and to reestablish grade*.  Back fill and pour a new patio section.
> 
> Difficult?  not really but not a small job for the DIYer IMHO.  $5500 sounds reasonable and get a guarantee about grade/settlement/cracking of the patio as well as that the pipe does have a high point that will slope back towards the house from the repair area.


^Using the flexible couplings as suggested would allow you to use PVC in between cast iron sections. Just be sure the inside diameter is the same - if you create any sort of lip, that's where the shit will literally start to stick (well, the toilet paper etc.)  I'd agree it seems like something that you could do on your own with shovels and some simple shoring to keep the sidewalk good, but I personally am not sure I'd be up for it ($5,500 might sway me, though).   Maybe get a second quote?


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## Dleg (Nov 15, 2017)

As far as getting deep enough to get under the sidewalk to make the connection, you could just cut off the iron pipe at both sides of the patio so you're not reaching under - just slide the new section in. Getting decent compaction will be trouble, though. Gravel is probably the best bet to replace the fill under the patio, unless you can do flowable fill (extra lean concrete) but that's probably not a good idea (just in case your connections cause problems again)


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## Dleg (Nov 15, 2017)

Oh, and if you do that ^^ method, install a new clean out on the uphill side of your repair, just in case you have clogging issues due to the new joints.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Nov 15, 2017)

Getting to the depth of 2-10 is just to the top of the pipe. You'll still need to dig around the sides to the invert level (another 4") and a couple more inches down so you can re-establish the proper grade of the pipe bedding (typically pea gravel). Assuming a 3' deep by 3' wide trench, that's quickly approaching 10 tons of dirt (about a dump-truck load). You'd need a mini-excavator if you cherish your lower back and want to get it done quickly. Well worth that $180/day for the excavator. The excavator can get you to the top of the pipe, you'll still need to hand-dig along the sides unless you want to make the trench wider.

As dleg said, it's not difficult. Just labor intensive. I wouldn't do it by myself, even with a mini excavator. If you have 2-3 friends willing to help, then you can make a long weekend out of it.

The only issue with the flexible connectors is that it makes the pipe more prone to settlement. If the base isn't compacted properly, the PVC will settle and cause that flexible joint to become a trap of sorts and lead to pipe clogs. With rigid connections, the pipe can help hold itself up and reduce the effects of the sagging/settlement.


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## Road Guy (Nov 15, 2017)

While I am normally a fix it yourself type person, I would maybe just shop that price around other plumbers.

You could probably also do the concrete cutting and removal and replacement yourself and save a decent amount and let them deal with just the actual pipe?


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## MA_PE (Nov 16, 2017)

You're not going to dig to the top of the pipe with an excavator if you're working under an existing concrete slab with 2 ft of clearance.  Flowfill is a good option for backfil and you can get it formulated with low strength so it can be excavated should that be necessary in the future.

I'm still of the opinion that the easiest approach is to cut the slab above, repair the pipe and then pour a new concrete slab section.


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## Supe (Nov 16, 2017)

MA_PE said:


> I'm still of the opinion that the easiest approach is to cut the slab above, repair the pipe and then pour a new concrete slab section.


Inclined to agree.


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## mudpuppy (Nov 16, 2017)

Jeb, what kind of soil would you be digging in?  I replaced about 30 feet of PVC at a depth of about 2-4' at my wife's old house, but I didn't have to deal with any concrete.  It was all in Georgia clay, though, and the digging was brutal.  I wouldn't want to do it again, though I might for $5500.


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## Road Guy (Nov 16, 2017)

&amp; for compaction just find a place where you can get some #57 stone - would think a yard or two would work and it would be way cheaper than flow fill and faster than compacting actual dirt.. but I would only worry about it under the concrete sections


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## MA_PE (Nov 16, 2017)

Road Guy said:


> &amp; for compaction just find a place where you can get some #57 stone - would think a yard or two would work and it would be way cheaper than flow fill and faster than compacting actual dirt.. but I would only worry about it under the concrete sections


Depends what material you're putting the stone in.  If the exiting material has a lot of fines the without a geotextile wrap you risk migration of fines into the stone and subsequent loss of "compaction"/support.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 16, 2017)

The portion under the patio is the only part that would have me worried.  Wouldn't even have to go under the sidewalk, hence the "staying within the confines of the driveway/sidewalk".  SW Ohio is pretty much all clay also, but as someone who spent over a year building an entire sanitary sewer system from building connections down to the treatment plant, a 3' x 3' trench for a 4" line is laughable.

The guy who came out and cleaned out the line a couple years ago is going to try and come out today to get his camera in there and take a look for himself.  It's he and his dad's plumbing company, not some big company, so he was a lot cheaper last time.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 17, 2017)

New wrinkle.  The boys' elementary school has a skating party once a month.  Got home from said skating party last night, open the garage door and see a large puddle (the laundry room is in a room in the back of the garage).  Get in the house and see the utility tub full of water and towels all over the floor.  Boys are a sweaty mess from skating so I tell them to take showers, but to make them quick, while I keep an eye on the water level in the utility tub.  That's odd, between their showers and mine, not only did the water not go up, it seemed to be going down.  Before I left for work this morning, I turned on the water in the now empty utility tub for a bit.  Only took a minute or two before water was backing up.  So, even though our main is not good, it was working good enough.  Apparently the problem is actually in the utility tub somewhere.  I checked the trap, but I guess some more disassembly is in order.


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## matt267 PE (Nov 17, 2017)

jeb6294 said:


> Apparently the problem is actually in the utility tub somewhere.  I checked the trap, but I guess some more disassembly is in order.


Could be a partial blockage in the connection between the utility tub and main. "Y" connections love to get clogged. I know you had the main snaked, but did you snake from the utility tub to the main?


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## jeb6294 (Nov 17, 2017)

We did not.  In the drawing I did, he ran the camera in through the cleanout just inside the basement and ran it outside the house.  The utility tub does indeed come in to the main via a "Y" at the back of the house.  I think the wife was going to get some Drano or something to try first and if that doesn't do anything, I may be taking out the utility tub and trying to snake the line.  At least it would be inside the house and no digging required.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 20, 2017)

Picked one of these up at HD Saturday morning.







It's a Ryobi drain auger that's $70 as opposed to $30 for the manual version, but it was worth every penny (FYI, it's the auger only but I already have the Ryobi batteries/charger).  Turning the snake is powered, but it also has power feed which was the really nice thing since I ended up running it through a few times.  Doing that by hand would have been a PITA.  In the end I did end up pulling out a wire tie (like you get on a loaf of bread) with some typical washing machine junk wrapped around it.


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## Dleg (Nov 20, 2017)

^I need one of those. Hand snakes are just too much work.


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## matt267 PE (Nov 20, 2017)

jeb6294 said:


> In the end I did end up pulling out a wire tie (like you get on a loaf of bread) with some typical washing machine junk wrapped around it.


Nice. Does the utility sink drain better now?


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## MA_PE (Nov 20, 2017)

that's pretty cool and less than the $300 roto-rooter charges


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## jeb6294 (Nov 20, 2017)

I'll have to let you know once I get it installed.  The original plumbing under the old sink was a mish-mash of 2" and 1-1/2" PVC with two P-traps and more 2" wrapping around and up the wall for the drain hose for the washing machine.  In all that mess was a bit of 2" PVC that was deadheaded with a threaded plug.  I was able to get in through the plug with the auger and it seemed to drain better.  The old sink was pretty gross and that really thin plastic so I went ahead and got a new utility tub and the stuff to replace all the PVC with one plain ol' P-trap so I need to finish getting it installed.


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## matt267 PE (Nov 20, 2017)

If it doesn't work, at least you got a new utility sink out of the deal. Hopefully you won't have to replace you whole lateral.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 21, 2017)

Got home after work yesterday, ran the auger through one last time and then hooked up the new drain.  No faucet yet...the only one they have at the big box stores are crap plastic ones so not sure if I'll install the one I got or order one...so I dumped a 5 gal. bucket of water in and it drained just fine.  Wife did a couple loads of laundry and everything was still good.  Utility sink is thicker gauge, but still plastic so a little more wobbly than I would like so I'm going to add a wood support to the wall so the back of the sink has a solid place to hang from rather than sitting on nothing but 4 thin metal legs.


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## knight1fox3 (Jan 15, 2018)

Picked up a new washer/dryer combo. Didn't have a whole lot of time to research but ended up going with Maytag as they had pretty standard features and a nice 10-yr warranty.

https://www.maytag.com/washers-and-dryers/washers/top-load-washers/p.top-load-washer-with-the-deep-fill-option-and-powerwash-cycle-5.2-cu.-ft.mvwb865gw.html


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## Supe (Jan 15, 2018)

It's no Speed Queen, but hooray for top loaders!


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## Road Guy (Jan 15, 2018)

weve always gotten a decade plus out of all our maytags, I know there has been some ownership changes but I don't think I would buy another brand.


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## knight1fox3 (Jan 15, 2018)

Supe said:


> It's no Speed Queen, but hooray for top loaders!


Indeed. Couldn't find that particular brand at our local retailer (non-chain type).



Road Guy said:


> weve always gotten a decade plus out of all our maytags, I know there has been some ownership changes but I don't think I would buy another brand.


That's good feedback, thanks!


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## wilheldp_PE (Jan 15, 2018)

Maytag literally rolls off the same assembly line as Whirlpool these days.  Neither of them are bad, but they are the same.


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## MA_PE (Jan 15, 2018)

Kenmore washer we got from a friends parents when they moved out of their apartment at least 10-15 years ago....going strong.

maytag dryer again at least 10-15 years old.  Also going strong.


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## wilheldp_PE (Jan 15, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> Kenmore washer we got from a friends parents when they moved out of their apartment at least 10-15 years ago....going strong.
> 
> maytag dryer again at least 10-15 years old.  Also going strong.


If you want to find out who actually manufactured a Kenmore appliance, just look at the first 3 digits of the model number (there will be a period and a bunch of other digits after the period in the model number, too).  Compare those three digits to the chart on this webpage (http://www.appliance411.com/purchase/sears.shtml).


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## knight1fox3 (Jan 15, 2018)

wilheldp_PE said:


> Maytag literally rolls off the same assembly line as Whirlpool these days.  Neither of them are bad, but they are the same.


Are there any other models that you would recommend higher than Maytag/Whirlpool?


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## wilheldp_PE (Jan 15, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> Are there any other models that you would recommend higher than Maytag/Whirlpool?


Not really.  All major brands have their problems (including the "premium" brands).  I would just avoid Electrolux/Frigidaire like the plague.  They have more issues by far.


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## envirotex (Jan 15, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> Are there any other models that you would recommend higher than Maytag/Whirlpool?


NOT Whirlpool. 

We've had GE Cafe Appliances in our house and we are sad to leave them except for the early model dishwasher...More expensive, but we really like them FWIW.


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## wilheldp_PE (Jan 15, 2018)

The jury is still out on new GE products.  They were purchased a little over a year ago by Haier, which is a Chinese company.  So far, they haven't changed much at Appliance Park in Louisville, but I have a feeling they won't be paying for American labor for much longer.  And Haier appliances built before they bought GE had all the quality you would expect from a Chinese manufacturer.


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## Supe (Jan 16, 2018)

I have a GE dishwasher and stove.  Both of them are about 7-ish years old now, and both are huge pieces of sh*t.  Have had problems with them since day one.


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## jeb6294 (Jan 16, 2018)

Whatever...they're all basically the same nowadays.  Some units are just better than others.  Kind of like cars, whether you get a lemon or not has a lot to do with what day it was built on.

The only one that is truly better is Speed Queen, but you're going to pay for it.  There's a little mom &amp; pop appliance place that I checked out who carries SQ.  They had a brand new one that was built like the washer my mom had when I was a kid, i.e. every single bit of it was mechanical, there wasn't a single electronic in it.  Of course it cost more than almost any new washer and it was 3 cu.ft. which ain't gonna work for a family of 5.


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## Jbone27 PE (Jan 18, 2018)

About to begin the often frowned upon garage to interior room conversion. Anyone had any luck with Levelpro or any other type of concrete leveler? When in the process is the best time to do this? Right up to the baseplate prior to installing drywall?


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## Road Guy (Jan 19, 2018)

Ive never had the "knack" for it. I had to level the area where I put a shower pan in the basement and it was much more of a PIA than I thought it would be.  How much space you talking about?


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## snickerd3 (Jan 19, 2018)

we tried to level a minor area in our basement to get the subfloor to install properly ( echo the PITA)...a garage floor has a slope on purpose...that is going to take a LOT of leveler.  I'm not sure the home improvement store stuff will be effective on that scale.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Jan 21, 2018)

When my brother remodeled his garage into a living space, he ended up building a floor above the concrete slab to level it. He used 2x8 joists to span it because the garage floor was about 18" below the rest of the house.  Depending on how the floor height of your garage sits in relation to the rest of your house, that may be an option.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Jan 21, 2018)

Depending on the height difference and overall slope, may be able to even do this with 2x4 and rip it down to the slab slope as you go towards the back with the lesser slope.


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## Supe (Apr 23, 2018)

Has anyone here done any of those retractable screens/awnings that are common with pergolas?  Not the automated ones like Sunsetter, but the ones that you just open/close with a pole by sliding it along a track.  We have a retractable Sunsetter type now, and it's an ugly POS that hangs way too low when fully extended and sags.  I need to redo my deck boards and railings soon, and I'd like to get rid of the automated awning and attach 4x4 corner posts that extend up 8-10 feet and are joined/boxed at the top (one to two boards spanning between each).  I would attach pulldown shades on one side to block out my douchebag neighbor, and use the sliding awning on the top.  It also gives me a place to hang some outdoor string lights.

Curious if anyone's done anything like this or has recommendations on brands.  I know the "it" thing to do now is those slatted wood pergolas, but a) I think they're ugly, b) I don't want to get permit/HOA approval to build one, and c) I can skip permit and HOA approval if I can bolt things to the existing deck since it won't be an additional "structure".


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## Master slacker (Apr 23, 2018)

Just replaced our driveway where roots and Jimmy Hoffa buckled it in a zillion places.  The brick edging is being ripped out and replaced by gravel this weekend by decree of her heiness Mrs. MS.  I have no clue what type of gravel to get.  On trails we hike, the trails are all small, gray, rough gravel.  Gravel paths online show larger rocks.  Should I be getting 3/8"?  Fines?  5/8"?  Do I even need to put / tamp down a rock dust base before the top gravel?  This is simply on the sides of the driveway and more cosmetic than anything.


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## MA_PE (Apr 23, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> Just replaced our driveway where roots and Jimmy Hoffa buckled it in a zillion places.  The brick edging is being ripped out and replaced by gravel this weekend by decree of her heiness Mrs. MS.  I have no clue what type of gravel to get.  On trails we hike, the trails are all small, gray, rough gravel.  Gravel paths online show larger rocks.  Should I be getting 3/8"?  Fines?  5/8"?  Do I even need to put / tamp down a rock dust base before the top gravel?  This is simply on the sides of the driveway and more cosmetic than anything.


White landscaping stones?

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Landscaping-Hardscapes-Landscape-Rocks/White/N-5yc1vZbx5dZ1z0vm5f

Also you want to line underneath the stones with geotextile filter fabric so the dire below doesn't migrate into the stone and it will minimize the likelihood of weeds growing through the stones.


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## Supe (Apr 23, 2018)

1/4" compacts pretty well but still lets it drain and won't wash away.  Nicer aesthetic than pea gravel but less likely to let weeds/etc. grow through it.  I think that's what I'm going to end up using for backyard walkways and fire pit surround.


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## Supe (Apr 24, 2018)

Anyone ever use a Stratton bracket?  It's sort of a J-hook that's bent to follow vinyl siding contours.  Anchor to the wall with lags, and then lag a ledger to it.  Seems like a good way of semi-permanent mounting without having to cut and flash all the siding while allowing some breathing room.


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## Road Guy (Apr 24, 2018)

anyone ever try these? or something similar?

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-HDMI-Connection-GWHDKIT11/dp/B077BGN2C8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524612825&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=wireless+hdmi&amp;dpID=31UhR8sha-L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch

what I am trying to do is not have a tv cabinet under the tv (on the wall) - I meant to run an hdmi cable through the basement so I could put the DVD player under an end table and not have to have anything under the TV. But i forgot and now the basement below is finished and isn't accessible. I have everything else behind the TV but there doesn't seem to be an option to vertically mount a DVD player behind the TV - which would be cool if I could find that.

alternatively I am putting hardwood floors in the living room and my last option would be to fish an hdmi under the plywood flooring - I hate to have to cut out the plywood and replace it for the cable but would be willing to do it. I was going to put a floor mounted junction box for the hdmi cable I could plug the dvd into - and I am able to fish it up the wall on the other side to where the TV is...


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## MA_PE (Apr 24, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> anyone ever try these? or something similar?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-HDMI-Connection-GWHDKIT11/dp/B077BGN2C8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524612825&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=wireless+hdmi&amp;dpID=31UhR8sha-L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
> 
> ...




These looked cool and cheap too.  You still have run a cable though

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&amp;cp_id=10110&amp;cs_id=1011012&amp;p_id=8121


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## knight1fox3 (Apr 25, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> anyone ever try these? or something similar?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Wireless-HDMI-Connection-GWHDKIT11/dp/B077BGN2C8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524612825&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=wireless+hdmi&amp;dpID=31UhR8sha-L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
> 
> ...


I haven't used the IOGEAR solution, but used another wireless HDMI implementation by Warpia. It worked well enough for periodically streaming content from a laptop. But didn't try a permanent implementation. One thing I did notice was the quality of signal. Periodically there were times where an audio delay was encountered or if streaming HD content (i.e. 1080p) and someone broke the line of sight between the transmitter/receiver, the video would stutter. For the most part, the comments are fairly positive on the IOGEAR solution.


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## Ramnares P.E. (Apr 27, 2018)

So as some of you know, I recently purchased a home outside New York City.  One of the benefits? of this is a huge front lawn.  I've been a city guy with a 10' x 10' backyard most of my life.  Any recommendations/tips for treating your lawn?  PreEmergents with weed killer preferences?  Fertilizer preferences?  Any help is appreciated!


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Apr 28, 2018)

What is the current condition of the lawn? You're going to develop a routine that you will need to follow on a yearly basis, but the first 1-2 years may vary depending on existing condition.  You may need to do extra steps to get it to a pristine condition,  that you may not need once it's a well established lawn.


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## knight1fox3 (Apr 28, 2018)

Ramnares P.E. said:


> So as some of you know, I recently purchased a home outside New York City.  One of the benefits? of this is a huge front lawn.  I've been a city guy with a 10' x 10' backyard most of my life.  Any recommendations/tips for treating your lawn?  PreEmergents with weed killer preferences?  Fertilizer preferences?  Any help is appreciated!


I typically use the Scotts Weed &amp; Feed treatments about 2 or 3 times per year. I generally try to look for the lower nitrogen content. During active lawn season, I spot treat weeds with a weed killer made by Ortho. For edging and/or removing weeds/stray grass from landscaping, Round-Up is the way to go. With the dog, I tend to encounter lawn "dead spots". Which I then usually patch with EZ-Seed (grass seed + fertilizer + covering). Tends to make for a well-maintained and decent looking lawn for me. :thumbs:


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## Ramnares P.E. (Apr 28, 2018)

youngmotivatedengineer said:


> What is the current condition of the lawn? You're going to develop a routine that you will need to follow on a yearly basis, but the first 1-2 years may vary depending on existing condition.  You may need to do extra steps to get it to a pristine condition,  that you may not need once it's a well established lawn.


The previous owner did a great job maintaining the lawn.  The front has no dead spots and is thriving already.  The back and side have a couple dead spots but nothing major.  

I basically did what fox said.  Scotts has a three in one out which I used over the entire lawn and then I reseeded with the EZ seed.  

Will see the results in a few weeks I guess.

Thanks for the quick input.  Took me about 4 home depot trips to get the quantity figured out just right.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Apr 28, 2018)

In the fall, they also have a special blend that you can use to help thicken up the lawn for the winter time when the lawn tends to thin out a little. 

If you didn't do it this time, you may want to invest in one of the distributors so you get even application instead of just spreading it all by hand.


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## Szar (Apr 28, 2018)

Ramnares P.E. said:


> So as some of you know, I recently purchased a home outside New York City.  One of the benefits? of this is a huge front lawn.  I've been a city guy with a 10' x 10' backyard most of my life.  Any recommendations/tips for treating your lawn?  PreEmergents with weed killer preferences?  Fertilizer preferences?  Any help is appreciated!


I do not miss lawn care as a renter now...  Its such voodoo art.

 Use the wrong fertilizer?   It dies.   Cut it too much or too low?    It dies. Not enough sun?  Dead.   Step on it too much?   Death.   Water too much?   Rot.   Water in the summer sun?   It burns.   Not enough water?  Dust.  Heavy rain?   Your neighbors get the grass. 

I'd rather take the PE exam again. Heck,  I'd rather have a cold drink from Cosby.


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## Ramnares P.E. (Apr 29, 2018)

Szar said:


> I do not miss lawn care as a renter now...  Its such voodoo art.
> 
> Use the wrong fertilizer?   It dies.   Cut it too much or too low?    It dies. Not enough sun?  Dead.   Step on it too much?   Death.   Water too much?   Rot.   Water in the summer sun?   It burns.   Not enough water?  Dust.  Heavy rain?   Your neighbors get the grass.
> 
> I'd rather take the PE exam again. Heck,  I'd rather have a cold drink from Cosby.


lol @ cold drink from Cosby.

Thanks @youngmotivatedengineer - I purchased a spreader because it's just too much lawn to do by hand.  I have a motorized hand spreader for the lawn area around the pool.  Agree with @Szar though, lawn care seems a voodoo art that is far too much work for not much return.


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## Bot-Man (Apr 29, 2018)

I'm seeding a couple dead spots today. Scotts EZ Seed patch and repair. It grows pretty well in sun and shade. Just make sure you water it well when you first apply it.


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## Road Guy (Apr 29, 2018)

What type of grass?

I've never been much of a lawn master but in the south (Bermuda) monthly fertilizer was a must -late spring to fall and then the pre emergence just at early spring...

My yard here is fairly small - 1/4 acre lot so it's maybe a 15 min mow job - back In Atlanta it was an hour plus

Previous owner put in an online liquid fertilizer with the irrigation system and it's pretty cool.. since nothing on my lawn is supposed to live in the semi - desert climate of Denver - the soil really sucks - first year I didn't add the liquid fertilizer and it looked like everything was about to die...

Looking forward to selling my house for $900K when amazon comes to Denver and then I'm gonna get an ocean condo on the gulf and not have any grass [emoji4] (well not the mowing kind anyways)


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## Road Guy (Apr 29, 2018)

Laid some wood this weekend... and
Not the fun kind......


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## Supe (Apr 30, 2018)

BS, your kids did, we all saw it.  Looked like unfinished planks from the FB post?


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## Road Guy (Apr 30, 2018)

My 15 year old was surprisingly a huge help- could not have got it all down without him- defin goes by faster with a 2 man crew...

Yeah unfinished red oak - in the pic I had just got done mopping after sanding it so it looks weird...

Now I just need to get the old lady to hurry up and pick out a stain color. cause until this is done ain't no where to sit in the house...


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## Supe (Apr 30, 2018)

If she tries a few samples, can you post?  I have red oak through most of my downstairs, and have contemplated refinishing vs. replacing as there isn't anything majorly wrong with it.  Just scratched up and a few gaps in boards where the main support beam runs under the house.  It has a very reddish stain on it now, and I'm wondering how well it will take a more neutral brown color.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Apr 30, 2018)

If you got spare pieces, I suggest staining a few pieces with each possible stain color and place it in several spots in the room. With all those windows, the stain is going to look different in sunny portions/darker areas of the room as well as night time. You don't want her to pick 1 and then have her complain daily that she doesn't like it due to the shading or she looked at it at night only and not in natural light.


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## Road Guy (Apr 30, 2018)

supe - will do!

YE- yeah that's the plan, just need to get the wife to narrow down to 2-3 stain colors

we originally wanted a darker stain but I am just in hurry up and wait mode for the wife to pick something out -

sucks that the tile in the kitchen is 1/8" lower than the wood floor, will have to do a T- threshold, should still look good but I was hoping to just have a seamless transition..

Also the carpet under where our sofa was was riddled in a million pee stains from the previous owners dogs (unless my dog climbed under the sofa to piss) they had 2 little yappy dogs they left inside all the time and they had a different living room configuration than ours, so now I am afraid to pull up any more carpet but at the same time I also want to get all that shit out of the house..


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## Road Guy (Apr 30, 2018)

so my next project when I get the floors done I want to add a propane / gas fire pit for the back deck, - we currently have one of those chiminea things - which we do really like but don't always want to deal with the smoke. I really want something like this from Lowes - but its around $450 bucks (see below)

I've got a bunch of  the stacked stone tile left over from my fireplace inside I just did so I was thinking about just trying to make one. I can get all the parts from JAX - do ya'll think if I just frame up the inside with wonder board / Dura rock or something that would be heat resistant? I was just going to get some black slate tile for the top - I like it being a "coffee table" for CAB when the fire isn't going?

Its on a deck or else I would just get some of the small wall blocks and fill with the fire ring and lava rocks..

Any ideas?


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## Supe (Apr 30, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> so my next project when I get the floors done I want to add a propane / gas fire pit for the back deck, - we currently have one of those chiminea things - which we do really like but don't always want to deal with the smoke. I really want something like this from Lowes - but its around $450 bucks (see below)
> 
> I've got a bunch of  the stacked stone tile left over from my fireplace inside I just did so I was thinking about just trying to make one. I can get all the parts from JAX - do ya'll think if I just frame up the inside with wonder board / Dura rock or something that would be heat resistant? I was just going to get some black slate tile for the top - I like it being a "coffee table" for CAB when the fire isn't going?
> 
> ...


Buy a square burner insert, then just frame with metal studs, sheet the outside, and then add your stacked stone.  I wouldn't trust cement board and 2x4's unless I was using one of the insulated pit inserts, but those are a couple hundred bucks by themselves.  You may save $100 or so vs. buying the premade one.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 30, 2018)

The wife got one of those inflatable hot tubs from a neighborhood Facebook classified's page a little while ago.  I kind of rolled my eyes at the time, but man that thing has been nice.  Got it blown up and ready to go for the year and all seemed to go well until I hit the button to turn the bubbles on...no bubbles.  Got to take the pump apart this weekend to fix it.  Remarkably simple setup.  Some electronics, but basically just a heating element, small water pump and a blower.  Blower worked but no bubbles were coming out.  When I got it apart I figured out there are two spring loaded rubber stoppers between the blower and the tub.  There's enough air pressure to push one stopper open and make bubbles, but then if too much pressure builds up, the other stopper opens and dumps the air out the bottom.  The first stopper had shellaced itself to the plastic housing after sitting all winter.  Popped it loose and cleaned it up and voila.


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## Ramnares P.E. (Apr 30, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> so my next project when I get the floors done I want to add a propane / gas fire pit for the back deck, - we currently have one of those chiminea things - which we do really like but don't always want to deal with the smoke. I really want something like this from Lowes - but its around $450 bucks (see below)
> 
> I've got a bunch of  the stacked stone tile left over from my fireplace inside I just did so I was thinking about just trying to make one. I can get all the parts from JAX - do ya'll think if I just frame up the inside with wonder board / Dura rock or something that would be heat resistant? I was just going to get some black slate tile for the top - I like it being a "coffee table" for CAB when the fire isn't going?
> 
> ...


Wife has been thinking about adding this to the deck outside.  I'm not motivated enough at the moment to try to build one so I might just eat the cost for the off the shelf one.  She was looking at the bigger ones that double as a table as well.


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## Supe (Apr 30, 2018)

My coworker got tired of trying to service the expensive hot tubs that inevitably fail anyways.  He now buys the inflatable ones exclusively for a small room he built off his master.  Says he replaces one every 2-3 years, but its paid for itself at that point.


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## Road Guy (Apr 30, 2018)

my folks had an inflatable one also - it actually lasted a fairly long time - I wouldn't mind one but we just have zilch privacy in our yard in the winter time (when I would most want one)


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## snickerd3 (May 2, 2018)

blah...i hate the smell of those propane/natural gas fire pits.  pretty but i can't spend more than a couple minutes sitting by them


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## Dleg (May 2, 2018)

You're supposed to LIGHT them.


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## Road Guy (May 2, 2018)

The newer stuff is pretty good - you can't tell our gas / wood stove is "gas" we burn it all day long when it's cold.


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## Supe (May 2, 2018)

Dleg said:


> You're supposed to LIGHT them.


Go home folks, internet's over for today.


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)

@Supe - here is the dark stain - it was drying when I took the pic so still a little splotchy looking - onto the polyurethane weekend!


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)




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## knight1fox3 (May 4, 2018)

Wow, that looks great! :thumbs:


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)

thanks, its a huge room ( 24' X 16') and without the furniture in it the stove looks tiny! took nearly an entire I gallon can of stain to cover it all.

for comparison this is what the room would have looked like if the previous owners had added the builders grade fireplace when they built it - maybe just the green make its look fugly but I think we have a ton more room- the fireplace shrinks the room..


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## Dean Agnostic (May 4, 2018)

Nice!

How much were the material cost?


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## Dean Agnostic (May 4, 2018)

Estimated materials cost?


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)

The wood flooring was around a grand. had the pneumatic nail gun and compressor already.

red oak is a good bit more expensive here in Co compared to what I paid for it in Atlanta, almost a buck a SF more (no oak trees anywhere around here)


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## Dean Agnostic (May 4, 2018)

About $2.60/SF. How much is the labor cost there in CO? For example, skilled carpenter per hour?


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## knight1fox3 (May 4, 2018)

Dean Agnostic said:


> About $2.60/SF. How much is the labor cost there in CO? For example, skilled carpenter per hour?


$0.00 / hr. @Road Guy uses forced child labor. :thumbs:


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)

True that!


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)

its pretty crazy here - the cheapest guy who did some help on my basement was charging me $60/HR!

I did my whole house back in Atlanta before we moved and got the hang of it - making the polyurethane shine is probably the hardest trick to figure out - but I think my wife was quoted like $4500 to have just this one room done- will probably eventually do the dining room (which is carpet) and the stairs and upstairs - having the living room out of commission has been tough..


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## MA_PE (May 4, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> thanks, its a huge room ( 24' X 16') and without the furniture in it the stove looks tiny! took nearly an entire I gallon can of stain to cover it all.


you need ~ 19' x 14.5' clear for a 9ft pool table....just sayin'


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## Dean Agnostic (May 4, 2018)

$60/HR OMG!


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## Dean Agnostic (May 4, 2018)

This is probably one of the reasons why the survival rate for General Contractors is super low due to high labor cost. Mistake on the labor cost estimate is fatal in so many ways.


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## Road Guy (May 4, 2018)

and they just have a hard time with standard business acumen -they rarely show up on time, or do anything within schedule, and never manage their own subs.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (May 4, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> and they just have a hard time with standard business acumen -they rarely show up on time, or do anything within schedule, and never manage their own subs.


That is one of the problems. Too many peoe want to make money without doing actual work. So you hire 1 guy, who then hires someone else.  Both guys are charging overhead costs and profits on top of their expenses for the work.


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## Supe (May 7, 2018)

That looks good, RG.  Can't see any of the red showing through, surprisingly.  I will have to keep that in mind, has to be cheaper than reflooring the entire downstairs.  Its the logistics of needing to stain a downstairs with 3 people/2 dogs that worries me...


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## Road Guy (May 7, 2018)

HD rents a sander for around $60/Day that will strip pretty much anything wood floor related. then probably around $50 bucks in sandpaper for it. But you could strip pretty much any room in about an hour - and if you are going with a darker stain you don't have to remove 100% of the old stain.

I got sidetracked on Saturday with some basement stuff and didn't get around to putting the polyurethane on until Sunday. so our downstairs is still a wreck (All the living room furniture scattered around the dining room, office, hallways, etc) it is a PIA - if I did this over again I think I would just take a few days off work while the kids are at school and board the dog for 2-3 days -


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## Road Guy (May 7, 2018)

so electrical people - the wife bought a ceiling fan off of nextdoor (pit of misery) - the people we bought our house from 5 years ago had little kids so we were trying to change out the "baseball style" ceiling fans in the kids rooms - was a nice hunter fan, but when I wired it up it would blow the breaker? the fan had the instruction manual so I was able to figure out the wiring (pretty much only three wires - white, black, and a blue one for the light switch) ? I finally gave up and put the old one back in - which worked fine, just seemed really odd?

It was a larger fan than probably needed for a bedroom but I cant figure out what would make a standard ceiling fan trip the circuit breaker? Good thing we only paid $10 bucks for it, but the wife is not a fan of my idea which is just to drive by at night and toss the fan back into the peoples yard we bought it from? probably not the best idea since they live 6 houses down..


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## Supe (May 7, 2018)

Since its not the wall switch, its either drawing too many amps or the fan motor has a short. 

The polyurethane is what scares me.  I can stain in stages, but poly looks like shit if you try to blend it.  There is only one way to get up the stairs in our house, so there's absolutely no way to do the poly in one shot and still live there.


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## Road Guy (May 7, 2018)

yeah when I did the stairs and upstairs hallway at the old house I did it while the wife and kids were out of town and I just slept on the sofa..

I did 3 coats of poly - and I've got one spot where I let the poly overlap a little too much - not going to redo it a 4th time - but it can be a total PIA!


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## knight1fox3 (May 7, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> so electrical people - the wife bought a ceiling fan off of nextdoor (pit of misery) - the people we bought our house from 5 years ago had little kids so we were trying to change out the "baseball style" ceiling fans in the kids rooms - was a nice hunter fan, but when I wired it up it would blow the breaker? the fan had the instruction manual so I was able to figure out the wiring (pretty much only three wires - white, black, and a blue one for the light switch) ? I finally gave up and put the old one back in - which worked fine, just seemed really odd?


This is how I would have wired it if not using the switched light circuit. But if that still didn't work, then I would have went with your "plan B". :thumbs:  






Road Guy said:


> but the wife is not a fan of my idea


I see what you did there...


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## Road Guy (May 7, 2018)

yeah I tried wiring it that way also and the circuit tripped again - must be something messed up with the fan is all I can figure?


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## knight1fox3 (May 7, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> must be something messed up with the fan is all I can figure?


That would be my assessment as well. Possibly something faulty with the fan coil or a short elsewhere in the wiring hub.


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## Supe (May 8, 2018)

Anyone have experience with the various retaining grid products used to trap stone/mulch/dirt?

I want to mulch or put gravel around the perimeter of my backyard.  One side is no issue, but the other two may be problematic.  The left side gets a considerable amount of runoff during heavy rain from the neighbor's yard, and I'm pretty confident it would wash the mulch away.

Along the back of the yard is the neighbors' fences, but there is a short, aggressive slope between the fence and my holly trees in spots - about 1' drop over a 3'-4' span,  leveling off some as you approach one side.

Retaining walls are not an option.  I need a way to trap the mulch or stone in place, while still allowing sufficient drainage, especially along the left side. 

Any thoughts would be much appreciated!


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## Master slacker (May 8, 2018)




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## MA_PE (May 8, 2018)

I think what you want is geotextile filter fabric.  It should be available at most garden centers.  It's a fiber weave that gets placed beneath the stone and prevents migration of the finer soil materials into the voids in the stone material.

If you have running water going through and the weight of the stone won't hold it it place, you'll need some mechanical means to restrain movement of the stone downslope.  Some small fence to hold the material upslope with filterfabric and then stone might be the answer.


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## Supe (May 8, 2018)

My concern is that I need something to lock the material in place, and the geotextile fabric isn't aggressive enough to do that.  My line of thought was more along the lines of this stuff, but I know it can get pricey fast. 

https://www.amazon.com/Standartpark-thick-ground-polyethylene-strength/dp/B06VV93QH7


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## Road Guy (May 8, 2018)

You have a pic of the area?

What's done around bridges is we put geotextile fabric down and then large enough rock (rip-rap) that won't wash away during heavy rains - so I think you could do something similar but instead of type 3 rip-rap just get a larger size river stone or something - something about the size of your fist or bigger shouldn't wash away u less you have a really steep slope?


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## Road Guy (May 8, 2018)

Or make some small Gabion baskets out of hardware cloth.


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## Supe (May 8, 2018)

Will snap some pics tonight.  Definitely don't need stone that big.  I would prefer mulch as the option based on price and the fact that I'd be looking at probably 7-8 yards or more to do this, and that's a SHITLOAD of stone to move via wheel barrow.  Just to summarize, the flat area is the one at risk of being washed away.  The steep area doesn't have the water issue, but I question whether or not paver edging would hold back 3" of mulch or stone.


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## Road Guy (May 8, 2018)

yeah hard to get the picture in my mind what you are trying to do, but what about one or two levels of those smaller keystone style wall blocks they sell at home depot and then use some 24" rebar and drive into the ground behind them to hold  in place? could probably just have them so they stick up enough to hold them in place but not really show?

we had a driveway with a steep side slope and the neighbors water always rushed down onto it - I did a short retaining wall and then backfilled it with crush and run and topped with mulch and it diverted most all the runoff back onto their property - and since they never had any grass in their backyard there was a nice string of mud in their front yard when it rained, but it was better then on my driveway


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## MA_PE (May 8, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> yeah hard to get the picture in my mind what you are trying to do, but what about one or two levels of those smaller keystone style wall blocks they sell at home depot and then use some 24" rebar and drive into the ground behind them to hold  in place? could probably just have them so they stick up enough to hold them in place but not really show?
> 
> we had a driveway with a steep side slope and the neighbors water always rushed down onto it - I did a short retaining wall and then backfilled it with crush and run and topped with mulch and it diverted most all the runoff back onto their property - and since they never had any grass in their backyard there was a nice string of mud in their front yard when it rained, but it was better then on my driveway


you could drill holes through the stones and pound the rebar in the holes so the bars won't be visible.


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## Road Guy (May 8, 2018)

here is another drainage mystery if anyone has any clues.. - the red area on this older pic is where a tree used to be but died due to a large amount of water that accumulated below ground here - I have traced back all the irrigation that I can find to around 10-15' from the location without finding any leaks, but still water is always here during "sprinkler season"  When I look at the ground at "ground level" it looks like this is the low point for the yard and maybe the water drains here and has no where to go? behind the fence my neighbor has a raised concrete patio - which has always been there since the houses was built.

I plan to try and look for more irrigation that I may have missed in the next few weeks, but I kind of wanted to put another tree here since my neighbors home school their kids and all 24 of them are like always outside- or at least when I am trying to be outside drinking a CAB..


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## Road Guy (May 11, 2018)

Gesus Christ this took to damn long, being without a living room for 2 weeks sucked...

took me 4 coats of polyurethane to get it where I wanted it, kept having these big streaks where I missed some spots. totally annoying.. but this was before we moved the furniture back in...


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## MA_PE (May 11, 2018)

looks great.  now onto the next project!


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## knight1fox3 (May 11, 2018)

Agreed, that looks fantastic! Well done!

_Guest_@MA_PE_.... LOL


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## Road Guy (May 11, 2018)

weekend ahead of cleaning house, getting basement ready for guests, yard work and tons of other BS for out of town visitors for the kids graduation next week.. going to be fun-   cant decide if I just want to delegate all the work items directly or get the chore wheel out for the kids to do "their part"?


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## matt267 PE (May 11, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> weekend ahead of cleaning house, getting basement ready for guests, yard work and tons of other BS for out of town visitors for the kids graduation next week.. going to be fun-   cant decide if I just want to delegate all the work items directly or get the chore wheel out for the kids to do "their part"?


Are you letting your wife out of the kitchen to help clean the rest of the house?


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## jeb6294 (May 15, 2018)

Anyone done the vinyl tile squares...the ones that look like real stone tiles? Not that I can't do real tile, but I'd like to replace the parquet floor in the kitchen and by the time you do thinset and backer board and mortar and tile, the floor would be an inch higher.  Vinyl looks pretty easy to install and can go right on the subfloor after some primer.  They've got stuff that has a little thickness to it and you can grout.


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## wilheldp_PE (May 15, 2018)

jeb6294 said:


> Anyone done the vinyl tile squares...the ones that look like real stone tiles? Not that I can't do real tile, but I'd like to replace the parquet floor in the kitchen and by the time you do thinset and backer board and mortar and tile, the floor would be an inch higher.  Vinyl looks pretty easy to install and can go right on the subfloor after some primer.  They've got stuff that has a little thickness to it and you can grout.


If you're going with vinyl in a kitchen, I recommend sheet vinyl over the tiles.  With potential splashing water and mopping, I would want to minimize joints in the vinyl.  I just helped them replace a huge section of flooring at the golf course where drips from the ice and soft drink machines had pretty much rotted the floor completely through cracks in the vinyl tiles.


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## Road Guy (May 16, 2018)

I would be inclined to remove the parquet floor and put in tile so that it would be good "forever" &amp; you should also be able to install the tile right over the parquet without wonder board - but that still going to add at around half an inch.


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## jeb6294 (May 16, 2018)

The parquet definitely needs to come out no matter what...it looks really bad.  If the area under the sink is any indication, there's some pretty hideous linoleum underneath that too.  It looks like the vinyl tile that is groutable would be pretty similar in thickness which would minimize all the issues with transitions between rooms.  And while real tile would be nice, there's a lot more labor involved and it ends up being a lot more expensive by the time you figure in the cost of backer board, joint tape, thin set, etc.


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## snickerd3 (May 16, 2018)

Gotta put this in!!! we found it under the wilsonart tiles in the kitchen


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## Supe (May 17, 2018)

That one looks asbestos-era!


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## Master slacker (May 30, 2018)

Time for me to vent and let some of it out.  This past weekend I ripped out (demo if you will) our 400+ sq. ft back deck.  Not too much fun with the 90+ F heat and high humidity.  "Why did you rip up your deck?" you ask?  Well, lemme explain the ways...

The deck was nice looking, but boards are needing replacement and it was built quickly via ledger board and surely with no inspector.  There was no flashing, no barrier, no nothing to prevent rain / water from getting behind the ledger board and onto the sill beam.  Back door (kitchen) has a spot on the floor where the brick paver tile had busted.  Being a pier and beam house, the wood subfloor had gotten wet, stayed wet, and rotted over unknown number of years.  If the subfloor was rotted, the beams are rotten.  I had seen this coming for a long time, but couldn't fathom spending that kind of money to fix.  Maybe it'll fix itself.  Down the road the can got kicked until a month or two ago.

Before we step through the floor, I decide it's time to fix the house.  Must replace one beam, one rim joist, and sister three other joists.  Who needs money anyway?  But to do the work, the contractor must get access to the area of work... gotta remove the deck five feet from the house.  Well, shit, I can't just cut it off and Lego it back together.  F it.  Rip it all out.  But... this deck also keeps the animals in the yard.  If this comes down, the animals will run down the driveway and be on the loose.  F

I must build a driveway gate / fence to keep the animals in the yard.  But the existing 80 year old driveway is fractured from tree roots underneath and a gate would never clear the peaks made in the driveway and, if it did, there would be much too much room beneath that the animals would go under.  F.  Must rip up the driveway and pour a new one.  Again, who needs money?  


Demo bad driveway and repour - Done

Rip up old driveway brick pavers and replace with gravel - Done

Make new fence and gate for driveway - Done

Demo old deck to allow for foundation repair - Done

Repair foundation - Next week 

2018 is the year of the spend, evidently.  This isn't the end of the house list, but it's the end of the "must do" list.   :hung-037:


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## MA_PE (May 30, 2018)

MS  sounds like major accomplishments.  Congrats! and it seems the end is in sight.


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## Road Guy (May 30, 2018)

sounds fairly intense! and expensive! how much did you do yourself and how much did you have to hire out?


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## Master slacker (May 30, 2018)

I contracted out the driveway.  As much as I would enjoy renting a Bobcat and tearing up the old eye sore, I think I got a bargain out of my contractor.  All work was done in one day and I didn't have to worry about anything but swiping my CC.  That was $2300.

Once that was all cured, I ripped out the rest of the brick pavers bordering the driveway.  The ones right next to the driveway had already been removed for the the forms to be set.  I'm sure they all looked good when installed, but after 80 years of service, they looked gnarly.  Then I filled all the holes (I'm good at that) that remained, put down a crushed stone base, and bagged Lowes gravel on top.  There are a few low spots I need to touch up, but that can be done later.

The gate and fence I did myself, as well.  Was my first time doing both and I think I did a damn fine job.  The neighbors like it and Mrs MS loves it.  I didn't think to ever-so-slightly lean the terminal posts out so that the weight of the gate would pull it plumb, but only I can see the slight imperfection because I know about it... Aside from the posts, it's all cedar.  The dog now has Street TV.

Deck demo was _mostly_ me, but my dad and a good friend came out to help play "Break Stuff".  You never really know how much wood is in a deck until you have to haul it from the back yard to the street.  That part was all me.  I don't skip leg day.  I also did a quick-n-dirty grading of the dirt that remained as I discovered the deck area was sloped *towards* the house.  We can't have that, now can we?  Also have 10 concreted posts to pull up.  Something else that can be done later.

I'm swiping what's left of my card for the foundation work.  That should all be complete in one day to the tune of a cool 4 G's.  Once that's done, though, I'll be putting in a good number of jacks under the house to eliminate some soft spots and raise a few others.  Slow and steady...

If the work needs to be done, I'm doing it now and putting it behind me.  Pay once, cry once.


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## Road Guy (May 30, 2018)

send some pics up! sounds like a hell of a project!


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## MA_PE (May 30, 2018)

sounds cheap.  I'm having someone gut and redo one bathroom and I got an estimate for $28k (not including fixtures/tile) but including upgraded power to the house (going from 100Amp to 200Amp and installation of new kitchen counters and backsplash.  He's on the high side but he does excellent work.  Two other estimates were at lest $20k with no electrical or kitchen.


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## Road Guy (May 30, 2018)

how much for just the bathroom? - albeit probably smaller my basement bathroom I figured cost me $ 4grand doing most of it myself. Price to  (pay someone to) finish it was around $10 grand.. we are defin in the wrong business!


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## youngmotivatedengineer (May 30, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> I contracted out the driveway.  As much as I would enjoy renting a Bobcat and tearing up the old eye sore, I think I got a bargain out of my contractor.  All work was done in one day and I didn't have to worry about anything but swiping my CC.  That was $2300.
> 
> Once that was all cured, I ripped out the rest of the brick pavers bordering the driveway.  The ones right next to the driveway had already been removed for the the forms to be set.  I'm sure they all looked good when installed, but after 80 years of service, they looked gnarly.  Then I filled all the holes (I'm good at that) that remained, put down a crushed stone base, and bagged Lowes gravel on top.  There are a few low spots I need to touch up, but that can be done later.
> 
> ...


On the plus side,  you get to design your own deck now.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (May 30, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> sounds cheap.  I'm having someone gut and redo one bathroom and I got an estimate for $28k (not including fixtures/tile) but including upgraded power to the house (going from 100Amp to 200Amp and installation of new kitchen counters and backsplash.  He's on the high side but he does excellent work.  Two other estimates were at lest $20k with no electrical or kitchen.


How big of a bathroom?  20k to gut and redo seems high if it's not including fixtures or materials.


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## Road Guy (Jun 4, 2018)

I wasted a few hours messing with my sprinkler problem / leak - see my terrific drawing (failed to get a pic)

I determined that in the area where the leak is the lines don't get enough water pressure to run the sprinklers (i.e. I cant make them "pop up" when the valve is turned on manually) - nor do they pop up when running the normal sprinkler mode.

I am assuming this means somewhere there is a leak in the vicinity where the pond is? (red area on map)?

Guess the only thing to do is just dig up the line from the valve starting where the pond is and see if I can find the leak?


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## MA_PE (Jun 4, 2018)

bathroom is "L" shaped and ~10x12.  The "L" is a hallway that leads to a door that connects to the MBR.  We never use that door and are going to create a closet for the MBR and a second linen closet in the bathroom out of the hall.  The estimate was $25k not $28k without fixtures.  Like i said I got two other estimates for $20k without any electrical work or kitchen counter /backsplash replacements.


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## Road Guy (Jun 4, 2018)

bathrooms are crazy expensive -


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## envirotex (Jun 4, 2018)

It's all of the fixtures that get you; it adds up...You think that you're picking the least expensive faucet that you can live with, then you go look up the matching tub or tub/shower combo and the price is double what it for the same thing in another line.  They do it on purpose.

Plus the custom shower pan. Plus the tile. Plus the new granite counter top. Plus the new sinks. Plus the drywall and paint repairs from where you ripped all of the old stuff out...Plus....


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## User1 (Jun 4, 2018)

I'm currently without a laundry room but I'm super excited about it! I'll share the "before" photo in a moment  my cost is going to be about 4000 with materials and labor, including relocating all of the electrical, plumbing, drywall, paint, new flooring, trim, new access hatch to previously non accessible attic space, and built in storage on the back wall.

edit: jk. it's 4000 for labor and materials for the laundry room, blocking and ceiling fan install in the guest room, and powerwash of my garage and trim replacement/painted because that's all just about powder and not structural anymore haha. and building a real access door for my crawlspace because it just had random boards nailed in before.


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## User1 (Jun 4, 2018)




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## User1 (Jun 4, 2018)

TERRIBLE


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## knight1fox3 (Jun 4, 2018)

tj_PE said:


> I'm currently without a laundry room but I'm super excited about it! I'll share the "before" photo in a moment  my cost is going to be about 4000 with materials and labor, including relocating all of the electrical, plumbing, drywall, paint, new flooring, trim, new access hatch to previously non accessible attic space, and built in storage on the back wall.
> 
> edit: jk. it's 4000 for labor and materials for the laundry room, blocking and ceiling fan install in the guest room, and powerwash of my garage and trim replacement/painted because that's all just about powder and not structural anymore haha. and building a real access door for my crawlspace because it just had random boards nailed in before.


Ya but how do the spiders feel about this renovation? :dunno:  LOL Sounds like it will turn out looking quite the improvement. :thumbs: 

Speaking of laundry rooms. I also decided to try my hand at hanging cabinets for the first time (neighbor was getting rid of them, so they were free). Not very difficult but not super easy either when trying to line everything up and square it all. Turned out pretty nice in the end. And will free up some space in the adjoining closet. Some before and after photos below.


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## MA_PE (Jun 4, 2018)

Did you just go right over the chicken picture?


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## knight1fox3 (Jun 4, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> Did you just go right over the chicken picture?


Yep, that thing was an eye-sore anyway. There was an outlet back there too. Probably 220 or 221. :dunno:


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## leggo PE (Jun 4, 2018)

Not really a home improvement (and I rent, don't own), but, my fiance and I rearranged our bedroom last night in an effort to allow our cat back into our bedroom at night.

Basically, the room's a rectangle, with one shorter wall having a higher window run most of the length of it. We used to have our bed against that wall, but our cat was climbing up the headboard and messing with the shades at night when we were trying to sleep. We ultimately just locked him out of the bedroom, but that came with a host of other problems that also disrupted our sleep and caused more work for us. Now, we've move the bed to one of the longer walls. It actually opens up the room a lot, and though we've only spent one night with it in its current configuration, I think I might like it a lot more. It's fun to see a space configured completely differently after living with it in the same configuration for years (in our case, three). After we rearranged the bedroom, we were sitting in the living room , looking around to see if there was anything different we could really do there. There wasn't much we could do there, but it's okay, I like our living room set up how it is.

And in the first run last night, the kitty tried to jump up on the window ledge twice, but didn't make it either time. We think it's probably too narrow and too high for him (primarily too high). This would be an excellent development in the kitty-parent relationship.

This post sounds like it should actually be in the pet thread, haha.


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## knight1fox3 (Jun 4, 2018)

^ please post videos of said kitty jump attempts. For science.


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## User1 (Jun 4, 2018)

obviously with your extra room in the bedroom, you need to build a super cool cat tree to assist your cat in approaching desired window sitting altitude.


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## leggo PE (Jun 4, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> ^ please post videos of said kitty jump attempts. For science.


Aw, how I wish I had a video of it! But it was with the lights off after we went to bed, and I didn't have my glasses on. I did hear both attempts! It sounded like the front paws barely made it up to the ledge, but then he crashed to the ground. Apparently two tries was enough, with that approach anyway.



tj_PE said:


> obviously with your extra room in the bedroom, you need to build a super cool cat tree to assist your cat in approaching desired window sitting altitude.


No. We want our sleep.


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## jeb6294 (Jun 5, 2018)

Got the vinyl tile to redo the entryway/hallway/kitchen.  Right now, the whole thing is parquet which looks terrible, but it has actually started popping up in the kitchen where the dogs' water bowl is.  Youtube videos reveal that removing the parquet could be okay or it could be a giant PITA.  Hopefully a hand scraper will work, if not, you can rent electric floor scrapers that look like they would make pretty quick work of it.  Wife leaves Wednesday to work in Dallas for a week so the plan is to have it done by the time she gets back.  This is the stuff I got:


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## Road Guy (Jun 5, 2018)

ive never understood wood floors in the kitchen - our last house had them and it was a constant fight for all the water drips and spills that happen when you mix a sink , dishwasher, etc with wood...

here is my pond, im thinking about just calling in a sprinkler guy, have dug up a good bit of the yard with no trace of the leak yet...


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## MA_PE (Jun 5, 2018)

Shut the system off for a few days and let the "pond" dry up.  Borrow an IR camera from your office (assuming they have one) and turn the system on with cold water.  The leak should cool the soil locally and show up on the IR image as a cold spot.


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## Master slacker (Jun 5, 2018)

You want pictures?  You got pictures.  Ok, so, below is the *BEFORE* picture.  Try not to get confused as the *AFTER* picture comes second.  This is what was left of the beam and sill joist when I removed the deck's ledger board.  What remains is what I couldn't remove by poking it with my finger.  I didn't forcibly dig anything out.




If I ever hear of any one of you installing a deck using a ledger board and you DON'T use flashing or any other approved water barrier, I will personally drive my ass to your place of residence and beat yours.  The outward-facing half of the 4x4 beam is toast.  The half facing the interior didn't look that bad.   The 2x10 on top of that is GONE.  We were probably a very short time away from stepping through the floor at the back door.

Now, again, do not be confused.  What follows is the *AFTER* picture.




Believe it or not, the floor doesn't bounce any more.  Now onto installation of sheathing, asphalt paper, new tile shingles, paint, and steps.  Ugh.  :suicide:


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## Road Guy (Jun 5, 2018)

holy shit!


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## MA_PE (Jun 5, 2018)

I recently had a sliding glass door replaced that led to a small deck.  Fortunately when they built the deck they installed a small piece of aluminum flashing.  the contractor replacing the door said the flashing is what saved the whole sill below the slider from requiring replacement.

Good work.  The heck with the steps.  Kids like to jump.


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## Supe (Jun 5, 2018)

Anybody use one of those porcelain shower pans in lieu of doing a cement pan/tiled floor?  Looking at replacing the soaker tub with a big walk-in shower, and it sure seems like one of those would save a lot of headache and labor costs, not to mention I like the look of them better than a big tile "curb".


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## Road Guy (Jun 5, 2018)

haven't seen the porcelain ones, just the fiberglass types - used that on mine in the basement and it worked well - only bad thing is it gets nicked very easily while you are tiling the rest of the shower - I put some tarps down but probably should have put some cardboard down as well to protect it


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## Supe (Jun 5, 2018)

Sounds good.  Are they flanged for easy waterproofing?  Now I need to measure and see if I can use a standard size.  I think I have a 30-something by 60 inch tub, but I can't remember whether it's boxed in on the sides or not.  I'd rather not have to "shrink" the shower to fit, though it wouldn't be hard.  I do have a window in there, but I think I'm just going to buy a vinyl fixed window and PVC trim and caulk the bastard in place.  It's the only source of natural light in there.


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## Road Guy (Jun 5, 2018)

yes there was plenty of room to overlap the tile down into the flange so you don't have any water leakage


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## Master slacker (Jun 5, 2018)

Simple question regarding bathroom remodel.  What is a reasonable and realistic time estimate for a now-avid home improvement DIY person to redo a standard bathroom shower (just the shower), which would include the following tasks - demo 3 walls of 4-inch white tile, demo green board, remove mold / mildew on any surfaces, install cement board, install waterproof liner, install new tile of some sort?  

The only catch is that this is our only bathroom and only shower.  If I absolutely need to, I can always put up visqueen to cover any incomplete walls to take quick showers, right?  Thoughts?


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## Road Guy (Jun 5, 2018)

if you are not changing any plumbing then I think it could be reasonably done in a long weekend - starting demo like Thursday night working nearly non stop Friday through Sunday.

Doing the tile is a 2 day task because you need to put a dead board down around the bottom near the pan - but not at the bottom - so that the weight of the tile rests on the board (which is screwed into studs) and then you are going to wait 24 hours before you remove that board. Then you have the grout, which doesn't take long, but again you will want to have 24 hours between when you finish it and before you put water on it (&amp; I normally put a sealer on it after the 24 hour cure time for the grout) so that's another few hours..

below is junior learning to do tile.. I put the boards a little higher than normal because I was going full to the ceiling with the tile, normally you could put it at the top height of the bottom row of tile so that you just have to slightly cut the bottom row of tile before its "done"

we were without water at our town house a long time ago and we just used one of those solar showers / camping showers in the backyard (in bathing suits) to get by..


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## envirotex (Jun 5, 2018)

Supe said:


> Anybody use one of those porcelain shower pans in lieu of doing a cement pan/tiled floor?  Looking at replacing the soaker tub with a big walk-in shower, and it sure seems like one of those would save a lot of headache and labor costs, not to mention I like the look of them better than a big tile "curb".


We DIY'ed everything but the shower pan...We had someone come a pour a custom fiberglass pan so we could get the dimensions that we wanted. Also...highly recommend this: https://www.houzz.com/product/23215606-frameless-clear-tempered-glass-shower-doors-brushed-nickel-44-48x76-contemporary-shower-doors

We used the three-sided enclosure.


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## snickerd3 (Jun 5, 2018)

Supe said:


> Anybody use one of those porcelain shower pans in lieu of doing a cement pan/tiled floor?  Looking at replacing the soaker tub with a big walk-in shower, and it sure seems like one of those would save a lot of headache and labor costs, not to mention I like the look of them better than a big tile "curb".


we used swanstone when we took out the tub for walk in.  prefab custom size pan with solid wall panels top is the new bottom is what we took out


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## Supe (Jun 6, 2018)

envirotex said:


> We DIY'ed everything but the shower pan...We had someone come a pour a custom fiberglass pan so we could get the dimensions that we wanted. Also...highly recommend this: https://www.houzz.com/product/23215606-frameless-clear-tempered-glass-shower-doors-brushed-nickel-44-48x76-contemporary-shower-doors
> 
> We used the three-sided enclosure.


I think we'll end up with the roller doors on this one no matter what.  The toilet is close to the tub, and would block or necessitate a short swing-out.


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## Master slacker (Jun 6, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> Doing the tile is a 2 day task because you need to put a dead board down around the bottom near the pan - but not at the bottom - so that the weight of the tile rests on the board (which is screwed into studs) and then you are going to wait 24 hours before you remove that board.


Ok, that doesn't seem too bad.  May decide to take a week vacation and we can stay with dad while this is done.  For the dead board, we have a classic cast iron bathtub that we'll be reusing.  Do dead boards still apply?

Except for how dirty and nasty the example below is, our tub is exactly like this one with the exact same tile and soap holder, but we'll have ours reglazed.


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## Road Guy (Jun 6, 2018)

so the tub, even iron / steel  will flex some when you stand in it / fill it with water, etc so the main reason for the dead board (crib board) is to make sure the tile isn't resting on it - or else its going to crack when the tub moves a bit. but I think you could put that last row of tile in and grout it same day without many issues - then you caulk between the bottom row of tile and the tub

you have access to a wet saw? will make the job go much easier also..


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## Road Guy (Jun 6, 2018)

also those little pre fab insets (purple thing in my pic) was a total PIA to deal with, the inside is tapered so all the cuts have to trapezoidal (is that a word?) but they do look cool when finished -

If you didn't follow along in the basement thread here is the mostly finished product -

Shower Tile &amp; wonder-board, grout, misc. ...... $600 bucks

Doors (from Home Depot)  $500 bucks

Purple Box - $75!!!

Shower Faucet .. $200

Toilet ....$300

Sink.. $400

Floor Tile ... $250

toilet paper stand with shop towels on it.. priceless... (actually got that from goodwill)

I had someone do the framing and sheetrock so probably a grand for that &amp; the rough in plumbing?


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## Master slacker (Jun 11, 2018)

Got the sheathing and asphalt paper up.  Getting the shingles up will be fun as it was a bear to get the asphalt paper under the existing shingles and the new ones need to slide under the old ones.  Only had one day (of three) to work this weekend because life.


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## User1 (Jun 11, 2018)

my laundry room should start looking pretty this week and should be back in service by end of week too! I NEED MY LAUNDRY BACK lol.


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## jeb6294 (Jun 12, 2018)

Well, I went from thinking I'd have a new floor in the entryway/hall/kitchen by the time the wife got home from her week in Dallas to hoping I have the kitchen and stove back in the kitchen by the time she's back.  The vinyl tile is looking really nice and it is really pretty easy to put in, but I ended up having to tear the old floor out down to the plywood sub-floor first.  It was bad enough that I had to rent an electric floor scraper and it still took me two days to get it all out.


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## jeb6294 (Jun 12, 2018)

I decided to go with the grout lines which adds a bit on the PITA meter, but once that's in, it'll look just like stone tile.  Every once in a while I would start to complain about cutting tiles until I remembered what it'd be like if I was putting in real tile.  Just score it with a sharp razor fold it and it snaps right along your line.  I had one odd spot where the little pantry is next to the nook where the fridge goes.  Even after I got it cut out, I still wasn't sure how it'd work because I was literally installing tile around a corner.  Easy-peasy...heat the stuff up with a hair dryer and it got soft enough to fold it in half without breaking.  Slide the tile under the door jamb/trim and then fold the little sliver back over.


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## MA_PE (Jun 12, 2018)

looks good, Jeb  nice job.


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## Road Guy (Jun 12, 2018)

it does look good. How was the pulling out the old wood flooring?


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## User1 (Jun 12, 2018)




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## User1 (Jun 12, 2018)

Current laundry room status: obsessed with the wall color! And hoping for floors/trim tomorrow, builtin Thursday, and reconnecting Friday!


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## Dleg (Jun 13, 2018)

I think you should go with black.


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 13, 2018)

Dleg said:


> I think you should go with black.


I am led to believe that once you do that, you'll never go back.


----------



## Supe (Jun 13, 2018)

Anyone use those Shur-Line edging attachments for painting - the ones that you load the pain on the pad and use it up against trim/molding?  

Contemplating trying to use one on an extension pole to avoid renting scaffolding/extension ladders for my foyer.


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jun 13, 2018)

Supe said:


> Anyone use those Shur-Line edging attachments for painting - the ones that you load the pain on the pad and use it up against trim/molding?
> 
> Contemplating trying to use one on an extension pole to avoid renting scaffolding/extension ladders for my foyer.


I have. It's nearly impossible to keep paint off the sides of it.  You're much better off just getting the ladder and using a brush, IMO. Ladder rental is cheap, but owning one isn't too expensive either, really and they come in pretty handy for a lot of other things, IME.  I got a good deal on a 24' Keller fiberglass extension ladder at Costco.  It was years ago, but the price was good. I also got one of those Warner versions of the Little Giant. That thing is truly awesome for its versatility.  It's a 16 footer but Costco sells a couple varieties in 22'.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 13, 2018)

I have tried all those types and none of them really work, I've always just used a Purdy brush and cut the line in by hand

Home Depot has pretty reasonable rates on scaffolding rental, but picking it up in the sibling it is kind of a pain in the ass will definitely want a helper


----------



## Supe (Jun 13, 2018)

Ugh, that sucks.  My 250# ass definitely doesn't need to be 20' in the air on a ladder.   And I don't think the HD scaffolds go over 10 or 12 feet.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 13, 2018)

You can see my sentiments about the scaffolding

I think our living room is right at 18' or something I don't remember exactly I bet now that everything in our living room is a darker color the wife is nagging me to rent the scaffolding again to replace the ceiling fan


----------



## Dleg (Jun 13, 2018)

I'm impressed by your safety conscientousness.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 13, 2018)

I honestly did not think I would use the safety railing, but once I was up there I was glad to have it


----------



## jeb6294 (Jun 13, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> it does look good. How was the pulling out the old wood flooring?


One of the worst things I've had to do around the house.  I think the biggest problem was that the parquet was glued to the old linoleum.  If it was just parquet, the machine would make pretty quick work out of it since it was individual squares.  If it was just linoleum, the machine would easily peel up long strips at a time.  With the two glued together they worked to hold everything together so it made it twice as hard.


----------



## Supe (Jun 13, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> You can see my sentiments about the scaffolding
> 
> I think our living room is right at 18' or something I don't remember exactly I bet now that everything in our living room is a darker color the wife is nagging me to rent the scaffolding again to replace the ceiling fan


Assuming you're roughly 6', that looks about right for an HD rental.

I may just say f-it and go buy one of those Werner ladders.  21' with extensions (the Little Giant type) for $120 at lowes, and the split height adjustment would let me use it ont he stairs where I need to fix drywall waves and pops.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 13, 2018)

I told myself anything above that height I would just suck it up and pay someone to do


----------



## Supe (Jun 13, 2018)

I'm OK with heights, but had the misfortune of climbing up to the top of a WAY underrated extension ladder once to the eaves of my roof.  Still brings back horrible memories.  I may as well have been on a ladder made of rubber bands.


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 13, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> I honestly did not think I would use the safety railing, but once I was up there I was glad to have it


Of course OSHA says if you're up that high you should be tied off too.


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## Master slacker (Jun 13, 2018)

Supe said:


> Anyone use those Shur-Line edging attachments for painting - the ones that you load the pain on the pad and use it up against trim/molding?
> 
> Contemplating trying to use one on an extension pole to avoid renting scaffolding/extension ladders for my foyer.


After I bought one (after years of using tape), I swear by my Shur-Line edger.  I didn't use any tape for the last 3 or 4 rooms I've painted.


----------



## Supe (Jun 13, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> After I bought one (after years of using tape), I swear by my Shur-Line edger.  I didn't use any tape for the last 3 or 4 rooms I've painted.


Any tricks to it?  Of course I could give it a try, and if I f*ck it up, I'll be up there on a ladder anyways...


----------



## DoctorWho-PE (Jun 13, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> Of course OSHA says if you're up that high you should be tied off too.


Ah, an engineer.


----------



## Supe (Jun 13, 2018)

Yep.  12' scaffold, so fall protection would be 6' shock cord, plus 3 1/2' deceleration distance, plus 6' worker...

Good news, RG!  You'll only be paralyzed from the waist down.


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 13, 2018)

Supe said:


> Yep.  12' scaffold, so fall protection would be 6' shock cord, plus 3 1/2' deceleration distance, plus 6' worker...
> 
> Good news, RG!  You'll only be paralyzed from the waist down.


OSHA only cares that you follow their regulations or pay the fine if you don't.  No one ever said they were logical.


----------



## Master slacker (Jun 13, 2018)

Supe said:


> Any tricks to it?  Of course I could give it a try, and if I f*ck it up, I'll be up there on a ladder anyways...


I haven't used it attached to an extension pole, but I've been successful by just not getting paint on the wheels (duh).  I often use a shallow paint roller pan with not a sh*t ton of paint in it.  Lower the face of the pad onto the paint and swirl, dab, or bounce it gently to get paint on the entire pad surface.  Once you have paint, as long as you don't smash the pad against the wall too hard, you should get a clean line and keep the edges and wheels of the edger clean.


----------



## Dleg (Jun 13, 2018)

When I was a younger engineer, I was brought in to a construction site to do a safety inspection after an electrician had died. He was shocked while working on wiring a light fixture, but he didn't die from electrocution, he died from the fall.  He was in a small office with maybe 9 foot ceilings, working on a step ladder, and went down in a funny way with his head up against the wall. Broke his neck.  

Of course I follow none of those rules working on stuff in my home.....


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 14, 2018)

this looks pretty solid


----------



## Supe (Jun 14, 2018)

Yeah, that one falls firmly into the NFW category, even for me!


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 14, 2018)

When in doubt, use the buddy system! :thumbs:


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 14, 2018)

our hold house stairwell had one of those 20 foot ceilings on one end and I had to construct something out of 2X10's to get to it, was pretty sturdy but fairly expensive for a one use. It held up fine but the wife was freaked out when I was on the thing- wish I had taken a photo back then!


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jun 14, 2018)

Supe said:


> Ugh, that sucks.  My 250# ass definitely doesn't need to be 20' in the air on a ladder.   And I don't think the HD scaffolds go over 10 or 12 feet.


They go to 15 feet, IIRC. How tall is your foyer?


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jun 14, 2018)

Supe said:


> Assuming you're roughly 6', that looks about right for an HD rental.
> 
> I may just say f-it and go buy one of those Werner ladders.  21' with extensions (the Little Giant type) for $120 at lowes, and the split height adjustment would let me use it ont he stairs where I need to fix drywall waves and pops.


After using one of those, I don't see how I ever got along without it.  Handier than a pocket on a shirt.


----------



## Supe (Jun 18, 2018)

Audi driver said:


> They go to 15 feet, IIRC. How tall is your foyer?


It appears to be 20', but I need to double check.  It's definitely no less than 18.


----------



## Supe (Jun 18, 2018)

What a clusterf*ck Saturday was.  Ever since our trees were removed and the HOA STILL hasn't given me my approval to replant trees, the front of the house looks like absolute shit.  Front yard is all torn up from the stump grinder tracing the roots, and with all the new sunlight, weeds, clover, etc. took off like crazy.  I had finally had enough and committed to at least making the mailbox area and planter beds by the house look less shitty.  Unfortunately, I picked a 95° day in NC to do it.

I was f*cking DYING.  I could not keep enough gatorade/water/cooling towels handy.  Only cost around $200 for everything, but ended up digging a hole, transplanting a gardenia, digging up a shit ton of crab grass, dumping about 10 bags of mulch, 3 bags of dirt, and planting a buttload of annuals in a new barrel-looking planter, and then planting new flowers in three of our old pots. 

It damn near killed me and took all day, but even with the shitty lawn, it looks 10,000x better.


----------



## Supe (Jun 18, 2018)

On the plus side, my coworker has one of those 21' multi-use ladders from Werner (like the ones Little Giant sells) he said I can borrow.  I may just give it a shot and see how stable it feels.  If its not too bad, I can fix the f*cking doorbell while I'm up there instead of hiring an electrician (someone pushed the doorbell button in so far it cracked and got stuck, so the circuit was closed all day and fried the chime unit.  Was buzzing when I disconnected it, so transformer is probably OK.)


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 18, 2018)

Supe said:


> It damn near killed me and took all day, but even with the shitty lawn, it looks 10,000x better.


Well what was Mrs. Supe doing the whole time?! 



Supe said:


> On the plus side, my coworker has one of those 21' multi-use ladders from Werner (like the ones Little Giant sells) he said I can borrow.  I may just give it a shot and see how stable it feels.  If its not too bad, I can fix the f*cking doorbell while I'm up there instead of hiring an electrician (someone pushed the doorbell button in so far it cracked and got stuck, so the circuit was closed all day and fried the chime unit.  Was buzzing when I disconnected it, so transformer is probably OK.)


Eh, get the Nest Hello instead as a replacement. :thumbs:


----------



## Supe (Jun 18, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> Well what was Mrs. Supe doing the whole time?!


She helped later in the day.  Of course, she also helped the side closest to the house, which was in the shade...



knight1fox3 said:


> Eh, get the Nest Hello instead as a replacement. :thumbs:


I've been looking at several of the Nest/Ring-esque options for home security, but the doorbell is one I'm screwed on.  The trim around the door is very narrow, so one of those would only work if mounted to the brick, which would in turn mean cutting out a chunk of interior wall to be able to reroute the lines through the brick veneer.  No thanks.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 18, 2018)

I haven't looked at the ring but thought those were wireless?


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 18, 2018)

Supe said:


> I've been looking at several of the Nest/Ring-esque options for home security, but the doorbell is one I'm screwed on.  The trim around the door is very narrow, so one of those would only work if mounted to the brick, which would in turn mean cutting out a chunk of interior wall to be able to reroute the lines through the brick veneer.  No thanks.


But the Hello specifically has a narrow design footprint and also comes with an angle bracket for extra narrow installations. I was skeptical as well for my installation for some of the reasons you mentioned. But it worked out nicely. May want to double-check all the measurements &amp; dimensions.


----------



## knight1fox3 (Jun 18, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> I haven't looked at the ring but thought those were wireless?


Negative. And I wouldn't want something that ran on batteries either, especially in winter. It uses the same low voltage infrastructure as most existing doorbell systems.


----------



## Supe (Jun 18, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> But the Hello specifically has a narrow design footprint and also comes with an angle bracket for extra narrow installations. I was skeptical as well for my installation for some of the reasons you mentioned. But it worked out nicely. May want to double-check all the measurements &amp; dimensions.


I'll need to check.  I didn't know they came out with slimline versions like the Ring Pro.  This looks like it would be very close to my setup:


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## Road Guy (Jun 18, 2018)

we just don't answer the door   I mean this isn't 1980 when people used to come visit randomly..


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## Supe (Jun 18, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> we just don't answer the door   I mean this isn't 1980 when people used to come visit randomly..


I just want to use it to evaluate when I should answer the door naked/dressed up like a devil, as opposed to knowing when the neighborhood kids just want to invite my daughter over to swim.

Also for calling bullshit on the Amazon Prime 1-day assholes who never deliver packages but say they did.


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jun 18, 2018)

You're saying you don't just always answer the door naked?  It explains the Amazon Prime thing, for sure.


----------



## Supe (Jun 19, 2018)

Audi driver said:


> You're saying you don't just always answer the door naked?  It explains the Amazon Prime thing, for sure.


Unfortunately, Megan's Law dictates some discretion when it comes to naked door answering.


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jun 19, 2018)

Supe said:


> Unfortunately, Megan's Law dictates some discretion when it comes to naked door answering.


This Megan person sounds like a real downer.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jun 20, 2018)

We broke down and got a window A/C last night.  House has central air, but being 2-stories, the 2nd floor always feels hot.  Went in our bedroom, but we got an 8,000 btu so it has enough oomph to help cool more of the upstairs since our door is almost always open.

Did have to do a little DIY.  The side window in our bedroom is normal width (~30") but short.  Raising the lower sash, the opening is only 10".  Take the lower out all together and it's almost 14".  Since you're supposed to lower the window to hold the A/C in, I threw together a small wood beam to span the window.  We have vinyl windows and I also didn't like the full weight of the A/C resting on the one vinyl ridge along the window sill so I cut down another piece of wood to fit on the flat of the sill so the A/C has something solid to sit on.


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

Wife called this morning, water dripping from the ceiling.  Condensate pan in the attic was overflowing, and the float switch is apparently bad since it didn't kick off the unit.  FML...


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 20, 2018)

let it run for at least a day so you can maximize $$ out of the insurance claim!


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

If we nip it now, I can probably get away with just some paint touch-up around the smoke alarm.  I'm in no mood to pay out a $1000 deductible and another hike in homeowner's insurance!


----------



## snickerd3 (Jun 20, 2018)

ac unit in the attic just sounds crazy to me.  they drip water and when they go, they go badly.  utility room on the lowest level preferably with floor drain present


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

snickerd3 said:


> ac unit in the attic just sounds crazy to me.  they drip water and when they go, they go badly.  utility room on the lowest level preferably with floor drain present


Two zones.  One unit is in the crawlspace under the house, the upstairs one is in the attic because there is no upstairs utility room/closet.  Because we have a garage bonus room, the ducting would be a PITA if it were anywhere else because of the fire break.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 20, 2018)

we had a toilet explode above our kitchen and also caught it early, but afterwards I was like, Fuck- I could have had a new kitchen!


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

This is the third ceiling leak I've had now.  One from junior completely flooding our bathroom (which resulted in a new kitchen ceiling, kitchen light fixtures, bathroom shower and floor), another from junior partially flooding her bathroom (showered with curtain outside the tub) that resulted in paint damage to the crown molding and header in the kitchen, and now this one!  State Farm damn near dropped me after the first tub incident, because I had a hail damage claim for a new roof just prior.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 20, 2018)

well you do sound like a habitual offender 

We have state farm but have never had a house claim, but we had like softball size hail this week so maybe its time.


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

State Farm pissed me off on the first claim.  The hail damage happened AFTER my home inspection, but before I closed on the house.  State Farm didn't fight it with the other insurance company, so I got stuck eating it.  They claimed there was a second storm, even though it didn't reach that area, and therefore the time of damage was inconclusive.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 20, 2018)

I have always heard state farm was one the hardest to get a free roof out of, one storm I think everyone on our street got a new roof but us - (back in GA)


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

They weren't a problem up front, but long story short, I missed the window to modify the claim by the time I actually had the roof replaced.  Consequently, I ate about a grand due to them shorting the square footage and not covering a SHITLOAD of rot in the underlying plywood that was found when the roof was stripped.  Builder never caulked the toe board holes.  Roofers commented it was the second worse roof they'd ever done - the first worst their guy actually fell through when he stepped on it.


----------



## wilheldp_PE (Jun 20, 2018)

Supe said:


> Wife called this morning, water dripping from the ceiling.  Condensate pan in the attic was overflowing, and the float switch is apparently bad since it didn't kick off the unit.  FML...


I bet it's not.  Check it with a multimeter.  I get those condensate pan float switches in my lab all the time, and 90% of the time, they still work.  It may just be mis-wired to the AC.


----------



## matt267 PE (Jun 20, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> we had a toilet explode


Taco Bell?


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 20, 2018)

Lol -no but seriously the guts on the inside of the toilet are only good for like 5 years - defin worth replacing ever so often


----------



## Supe (Jun 20, 2018)

wilheldp_PE said:


> I bet it's not.  Check it with a multimeter.  I get those condensate pan float switches in my lab all the time, and 90% of the time, they still work.  It may just be mis-wired to the AC.


I'm inclined to agree after learning that there is not one, but two float switches in the system.


----------



## mudpuppy (Jun 20, 2018)

jeb6294 said:


> We broke down and got a window A/C last night.  House has central air, but being 2-stories, the 2nd floor always feels hot.  Went in our bedroom, but we got an 8,000 btu so it has enough oomph to help cool more of the upstairs since our door is almost always open.
> 
> Did have to do a little DIY.  The side window in our bedroom is normal width (~30") but short.  Raising the lower sash, the opening is only 10".  Take the lower out all together and it's almost 14".  Since you're supposed to lower the window to hold the A/C in, I threw together a small wood beam to span the window.  We have vinyl windows and I also didn't like the full weight of the A/C resting on the one vinyl ridge along the window sill so I cut down another piece of wood to fit on the flat of the sill so the A/C has something solid to sit on.




We did the same thing for the same reason a few weeks ago.  But our windows are sliders and I didn't want to mess with figuring out how to support a window unit so I went with a portable AC unit.



Supe said:


> This is the third ceiling leak I've had now.  One from junior completely flooding our bathroom (which resulted in a new kitchen ceiling, kitchen light fixtures, bathroom shower and floor), another from junior partially flooding her bathroom (showered with curtain outside the tub) that resulted in paint damage to the crown molding and header in the kitchen, and now this one!  State Farm damn near dropped me after the first tub incident, because I had a hail damage claim for a new roof just prior.




If you already have two claims, I'd be really hesitant to make a third.  My dad had two claims on his insurance several years ago, and when he sold and bought a different house he had a really hard time finding new insurance.


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jun 20, 2018)

Not a home repair, but damn Safelight comes through again to fix my windshield.  There process for booking etc. is off the charts easy.


----------



## snickerd3 (Jun 20, 2018)

I need a new windshield...i have lots of stars in mine.  thankfully they are all on the passenger side and haven't spread.  Hence I haven't fixed or replaced.  I saw each rock coming too, and there wasn't a damn thing I could do to stop it.    I have a glassguy, not safelight, there was a time a couple years ago I had fixed or replaced 3 windshields in less than a yr.


----------



## Master slacker (Jun 20, 2018)

Supe said:


> Wife called this morning, water dripping from the ceiling.  Condensate pan in the attic was overflowing, and the float switch is apparently bad since it didn't kick off the unit.  FML...


At least it was caught.  Last year I had the condensate drain pipe clog up completely, but the switch saved our ass.  Replaced all the PVC and it looked like it was filled with peanut butter.  No wonder my bleach cleanings didn't go through that easily.


----------



## User1 (Jun 20, 2018)

Contractor is finished! With the laundry room. Lol! I love it!


----------



## Supe (Jun 21, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> At least it was caught.  Last year I had the condensate drain pipe clog up completely, but the switch saved our ass.  Replaced all the PVC and it looked like it was filled with peanut butter.  No wonder my bleach cleanings didn't go through that easily.


Well, caught-ish.  I'm going to have to do paint/drywall repair in two small spots upstairs from the looks of it.  He ended up having to use the full size nitrogen bottle to clear the line out, the little CO2 cartridge they usually use wouldn't do it.  He said there was oil in the water and the refrigerant was low, so we know there is a leak in there somewhere too (which pisses me off, because it's basically been leaking since within a year of original installation).  They're coming back to do another dye pack, but at least the drain is clear and the refrigerant is topped.  He made a note that neither float switch worked, so they'll have to fix that too on their own dime.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 21, 2018)

TJ- Looking Good! (Is that a narrow wall to the left or just a weird angle photo?)

Supe- when our toilet exploded over the kitchen most of the water came down through a can light, I delayed fixing the ceiling right up until we moved and just before we listed the house for sale I put in one of those large rectangular fluorescent kitchen light (things) in its place to cover up all the damaged sheetrock- I never fixed the ceiling - but was just glad the home inspector for the buyers never figured out why we had can lights everywhere except over the sink / bar area!


----------



## User1 (Jun 21, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> TJ- Looking Good! (Is that a narrow wall to the left or just a weird angle photo?)


i took a pano to try to show the whole room because the door location is funny. there's a builtin in the dining room on the other side of the wall on the left (so it pushes into the laundry), and there are nooks on either side that the built shelf extends back into in the back, and another right next to the door on the left. i painted my ledgers last night and put the shelves in this morning! WOO


----------



## Supe (Jun 21, 2018)

Thankfully this isn't too bad.  About a foot long discolored/blistered area right where the wall meets the ceiling, and then about a 3" circumference of the same right around the perimeter of the smoke alarm.  I guess I may as well use it as an opportunity to fix the terrible drywall job in that hallway while I'm at it.  Bad tape job and nail pops everywhere.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 21, 2018)

Ever since I finished the basement I am having home improvement withdrawals, I find myself going to Home Depot at 7 AM on a Saturday, but don't remember how I got there or what I need to buy?


----------



## jeb6294 (Jun 21, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> Ever since I finished the basement I am having home improvement withdrawals, I find myself going to Home Depot at 7 AM on a Saturday, but don't remember how I got there or what I need to buy?


I miss the days when our HD was open 24hr.


----------



## Dleg (Jun 21, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> Lol -no but seriously the guts on the inside of the toilet are only good for like 5 years - defin worth replacing ever so often


Dude if there's guts inside your toilet you DEFINITELY need to lay off the Taco Bell!!!


----------



## wilheldp_PE (Jun 23, 2018)

Not really home improvement, but I hung some new artwork today.  It's an artist name Pawel Kuczynski.


----------



## MA_PE (Jun 25, 2018)

those are some interesting paintings.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jul 3, 2018)

I got me a good one. All three boys were at home yesterday...no summer camp this week...but I still came home to see that half the new tile had been grouted. Wife had never done it before so she looked it up on YouTube.


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 3, 2018)

&amp; the wife didn't text you 1000 times asking where tools are and stuff?  :thumbs:

So the last thing I need to do for the basement - I had rough framed out this storage area for interior French doors- only problem is I cant get the pre hung "unit" @CSB down the stairs into the basement?  One thing I have always struggled with is making the doors level even using the pre hung version - Not sure if I should buy a pre hung unit and take it apart and then put it back together again once I carry it in the basement or just try and piece it together?

Wife said no to bi-fold doors - may even just look at barn doors, expensive but may make life easier for me?


----------



## Supe (Jul 3, 2018)

You can buy the sliding barn door hardware kit, then just screw and stain some 2x6's together to make the door.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jul 3, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> &amp; the wife didn't text you 1000 times asking where tools are and stuff?  :thumbs:


She did not. :woot: You have to use acrylic grout with vinyl tile because it is more flexible.  It comes pre-mixed which makes it a lot easier and all the stuff was out because I had already done a few spots.

Even if she had, I wouldn't be complaining...I wasn't looking forward to grouting that much tile.


----------



## YMZ PE (Jul 4, 2018)

Saw some water dripping from the overflow on my water softener. I opened the brine tank and found it completely full of water. After draining it, I figured out the bypass valve was leaking and had flooded the tank. I have a part on order and will be replacing the entire valve this weekend since internet research tells me replacing the O-rings won't cut it. It's a cheap plastic valve; I wish there was an option to upgrade it to something more sturdy.


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 5, 2018)

YMZ PE said:


> Saw some water dripping from the overflow on my water softener. I opened the brine tank and found it completely full of water. After draining it, I figured out the bypass valve was leaking and had flooded the tank. I have a part on order and will be replacing the entire valve this weekend since internet research tells me replacing the O-rings won't cut it. It's a cheap plastic valve; I wish there was an option to upgrade it to something more sturdy.


Funny, my water softener has a similar leak right now.


----------



## YMZ PE (Jul 5, 2018)

Audi driver said:


> Funny, my water softener has a similar leak right now.


Mine is the Whirlpool 33,000 grain softener. What about yours?


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 6, 2018)

YMZ PE said:


> Mine is the Whirlpool 33,000 grain softener. What about yours?


Honestly, I don't know. I think it might be a Whirlpool.  I got it from my father in law who had abandoned it a few years back.


----------



## Supe (Jul 9, 2018)

F'in A.  So we had a nasty brief storm Saturday afternoon.  Sure enough, ripped down one of our shutters and pulled three more huge pieces of eaves/fascia trim off the house.  This is the third time that shit's come down.  Of course, the one guy who called me back did the "oh, we need to fix it right, replace fascia boards, etc. etc. we're super expensive because we overpay our workers, blah blah".  Yeah dude, all I want is someone who will charge me $200 to crawl up there and use screws and washers instead of f*cking 1" finish nails.  This shit isn't rocket science...


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 9, 2018)

maybe that 20; extension ladder would pay for itself by now   ?


----------



## Supe (Jul 9, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> maybe that 20; extension ladder would pay for itself by now   ?


My roof is steep as hell.  I have no business being on it.  I watched the last young, spry contractor damn near fall off the thing as he tried to traverse it.


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 9, 2018)

Supe said:


> My roof is steep as hell.  I have no business being on it.  I watched the last young, spry contractor damn near fall off the thing as he tried to traverse it.


All you need is a good rope.


----------



## Supe (Jul 9, 2018)

Audi driver said:


> All you need is a good rope.


Sure.  My contractor can bring it with him.


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

Hoo boy, CasaSquare's pool (we just moved in) got real cloudy in just a couple days. We were so busy moving I didn't check on the pool and it turns out the seller turned off the pump when they left. Time to shock it and maybe change the filter. Any pool advice? Never had one before. I'll consult the Google, too, of course.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jul 10, 2018)

Above ground or in ground? I don't think there's a filter to change on an in ground.  All the ones I've seen are a sand filter.


----------



## snickerd3 (Jul 10, 2018)

just be prepared to drop a lot of time and $$$$$$$!!!!!   chemicals, parts, tools, toys, electricity...it adds up fast.  we got rid of ours several years ago.  we were dropping $600+ a year for a 3 month season and only ended up using it a couple times.


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

jeb6294 said:


> Above ground or in ground? I don't think there's a filter to change on an in ground.  All the ones I've seen are a sand filter.


In ground, I'm learning as I go!


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

snickerd3 said:


> just be prepared to drop a lot of time and $$$$$$$!!!!!   chemicals, parts, tools, toys, electricity...it adds up fast.  we got rid of ours several years ago.  we were dropping $600+ a year for a 3 month season and only ended up using it a couple times.


Ughhhh, I refer to it as "surprise pool" because I didn't want it, need it, prepare for it, or budgeted for it. But it came with the house and LadySquare wants it. I'll give it a couple years I guess!


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 10, 2018)

would assume in CA you can get a good bit of use out of it?


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> would assume in CA you can get a good bit of use out of it?


I'd better use it now! It's all good, just griping about something I didn't ask for and I just want to do it right. It's 104F as I write this, so I guess you wacky EB weirdos better hit me up next time you're here! Everyone who walks in the door gets a standard-issue  "walking around beer." :bananalama:


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

Back to the topic: forgive my ignorance for I am a mere mechanical engineer, but do I need to hire someone to tell me if a wall is load-bearing or not? LadySquare wants to knock down a wall to expand the master bath. Do I need to call a guy? Inspector? Civil/structural engr? Architect? Billy-Bob down the street?


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 10, 2018)

you should be able to decipher - do your ceiling joints run parallel to the wall or perpendicular to it? (may have to climb in attic)


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> you should be able to decipher - do your ceiling joints run parallel to the wall or perpendicular to it? (may have to climb in attic)


I'll take a look and report back! I've only been living there for 4 days and I haven't poked around the attic and haven't paid attention to the ceiling. Thanks @Road Guy!


----------



## envirotex (Jul 10, 2018)

squaretaper said:


> It's 104F as I write this


I've just started saying the temperature in Kelvin.  316K.  That just seems to more accurately represent what it feels like to be outside for more than three minutes between the hours of 2PM and 7PM.


----------



## MA_PE (Jul 10, 2018)

squaretaper said:


> Back to the topic: forgive my ignorance for I am a mere mechanical engineer, but do I need to hire someone to tell me if a wall is load-bearing or not? LadySquare wants to knock down a wall to expand the master bath. Do I need to call a guy? Inspector? Civil/structural engr? Architect? Billy-Bob down the street?


you need to follow the framing and understand the load path.  RG's suggestion is good but basic.  If you have high ceilings or irregular framing it may not be as obvious.  Start cheap with getting an estimate and the contractor should be able to tell/confirm your suspicions.  If there's doubt find a local structural guy.  Depending on the age and configuration of the house and being in CA it might be designed to resist lateral loads from seismic events in addition to vertical loads.  A seismic shear wall could be just as important as a vertical load bearing wall, if there's ever a quake.


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

envirotex said:


> I've just started saying the temperature in Kelvin.  316K.  That just seems to more accurately represent what it feels like to be outside for more than three minutes between the hours of 2PM and 7PM.


Why not go all in and go Rankine? 564°R burns!!!


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> you need to follow the framing and understand the load path.  RG's suggestion is good but basic.  If you have high ceilings or irregular framing it may not be as obvious.  Start cheap with getting an estimate and the contractor should be able to tell/confirm your suspicions.  If there's doubt find a local structural guy.  Depending on the age and configuration of the house and being in CA it might be designed to resist lateral loads from seismic events in addition to vertical loads.  A seismic shear wall could be just as important as a vertical load bearing wall, if there's ever a quake.


This is sort of what I'm worried about. High ceilings (to me) and irregular framing (to me). Again, I am a mere mechanical. I guess the root of my question is who can I call to make the final decision whether or not I can take a wall down (really, I'm moving it).


----------



## MA_PE (Jul 10, 2018)

squaretaper said:


> This is sort of what I'm worried about. High ceilings (to me) and irregular framing (to me). Again, I am a mere mechanical. I guess the root of my question is who can I call to make the final decision whether or not I can take a wall down (really, I'm moving it).


You planning on doing the work yourself or hiring someone to do it?  If it's DIY I'd suggest retaining a local structural engineer to look and provide a stamped plan on what needs to be done to remove it.  If you're going to have a contractor do it, then get some estimates from remodeling contractor's and when you select one, be sure to put in the contract that you want a letter/plan stamped by a PE for the work.  that way if god-forbid anything goes amiss (even like settling and causing cracking to finishes inside) you have support material to have him pay for any necessary repairs.  I obviously don't know the specifics of your house it might be very simple, or...it might not be.  Good luck.


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jul 10, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> You planning on doing the work yourself or hiring someone to do it?  If it's DIY I'd suggest retaining a local structural engineer to look and provide a stamped plan on what needs to be done to remove it.  If you're going to have a contractor do it, then get some estimates from remodeling contractor's and when you select one, be sure to put in the contract that you want a letter/plan stamped by a PE for the work.  that way if god-forbid anything goes amiss (even like settling and causing cracking to finishes inside) you have support material to have him pay for any necessary repairs.  I obviously don't know the specifics of your house it might be very simple, or...it might not be.  Good luck.


I'm definitely having someone else do it. I'm busy with other DIY projects! I'll definitely request that my contractor get the planned work reviewed, I just didn't know if contractors are typically able to conclude what walls can be demo'd.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Jul 10, 2018)

squaretaper said:


> I'm definitely having someone else do it. I'm busy with other DIY projects! I'll definitely request that my contractor get the planned work reviewed, I just didn't know if contractors are typically able to conclude what walls can be demo'd.


If a contractor can't determine if a wall can be removed, they have no business working on your house.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Jul 10, 2018)

Dexman PE PMP said:


> If a contractor can't determine if a wall can be removed, they have no business working on your house.


The final determination will have to be made once you open the walls and ceiling ( or go in attic if it's a ranch). Contractor should have a good idea, but you never know for sure until you get framing exposed. Doing foundation plans for house's in flood zone, I've seen some crazy stuff once they opened walls. One house had a rear addition that started to pull away from the main house when they started to lift the house. It turns out the only thing that was connecting addition to the original house was the interior sheet rock and roof flashing.


----------



## Master slacker (Jul 11, 2018)

HFS deck-building supplies can sure add up.  Didn't know material cost that much for a relatively small deck.  :blink2:


----------



## youngmotivatedengineer (Jul 11, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> HFS deck-building supplies can sure add up.  Didn't know material cost that much for a relatively small deck.  :blink2:


When I built my mom's deck, it wasn't so much the lumber as it was all the metal connectors required. The vinyl railings also add up pretty quick.


----------



## YMZ PE (Jul 14, 2018)

I just replaced the bypass valve on my water softener so now we have soft water and no leaks! I did the repairs close to midnight because that's how intolerably hot it's been here. The old rubber O rings were warped and dirty so I made sure to lube the dickens out of the new ones. Inserting the new valve was a smooth process other than my getting sprayed in the face due to inadequately screwing the flex hoses onto the new nipples. And yes I'm posting this with deliberate phrasing solely to cajole @csb out of the woodwork.


----------



## Ble_PE (Jul 16, 2018)

YMZ PE said:


> I just replaced the bypass valve on my water softener so now we have soft water and no leaks! I did the repairs close to midnight because that's how intolerably hot it's been here. The old rubber O rings were warped and dirty so I made sure to lube the dickens out of the new ones. Inserting the new valve was a smooth process other than my getting sprayed in the face due to inadequately screwing the flex hoses onto the new nipples. And yes I'm posting this with deliberate phrasing solely to cajole @csb out of the woodwork.


----------



## jeb6294 (Jul 16, 2018)

YMZ PE said:


> I just replaced the bypass valve on my water softener so now we have soft water and no leaks! I did the repairs close to midnight because that's how intolerably hot it's been here. The old rubber O rings were* warped and dirty *so I made sure to *lube the dick*ens out of the new ones. Inserting the new valve was a smooth process other than *my getting sprayed in the face* due to *inadequately screwing* the flex hoses onto the new *nipples*. And yes I'm posting this with deliberate phrasing solely to cajole @csb out of the woodwork.


That is some guts posting something like that on here.


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2018)

did you have to use the nipple clamps?


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2018)

The wife pointed out that I failed to install a linen closet (for sheets and towels I guess) when I did the basement - there was an area under the stairs I was going to paint the floor and hang some shelves- apparently that wasn’t good enough so over the last few weeks scrapped together some leftover tile and put in a “nicer” linen closet than I had previously envisioned - you can see my reasoning with the plumbing down drain in the way and all... but just easier to “smile and wave boys smile and wave”.....

Shelving not yet fully installed - waiting on her to sign the change order


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2018)

and yes that's just 1X6 for baseboard, trying to use up scraps where I can! (actually think it doesn't look bad, just need to finish caulking it)


----------



## matt267 PE (Jul 16, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> The wife pointed out that I failed to install a linen closet (for sheets and tepees I guess) when I did the basement - there was an area under the stairs I was going to paint the floor and hang some shelves- apparently that wasn’t good enough so over the last few weeks scrapped together some leftover tile and put in a “nicer” linen closet than I had previously envisioned - you can see my reasoning with the plumbing down drain in the way and all... but just easier to “smile and wave boys smile and wave”.....
> 
> Shelving not yet fully installed - waiting on her to sign the change order


That's an odd looking stripper pole.


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## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2018)

its just for closet dancing


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## jeb6294 (Jul 16, 2018)

:huh:   Sorry, but we are going to have to revoke your Engineering card....


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## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2018)

couldn't decide whether to box out the pre existing utility conflict with a square pattern or make them diagonal so I did one set of each 

- actually was down to the last piece of tile and it already had the miter cut so I just went with it...


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## User1 (Jul 16, 2018)

my whole house has 1x8 trim so that's what i put in my laundry too. i'm a fan of simple and clean!


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## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2018)

we have to do floating floors here and to cover the gap you need at least 5 IN trim- which gets expensive - the 1 BY material is about half the cost &amp; I agree it looks better over tile and hardwood flooring


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## NJmike PE (Jul 16, 2018)

so this weekend I decided to FINALLY install a whole house filtration system for my potable water, after living here for 12 years. I have a well and regularly get sediment in my appliances which needs to be cleaned out. But the kicker was a few weeks back when my water pressure really started to drop and I started seeing discolor in the water out of my faucet. 

so I decided to start investigating the problem, flushing my water heater, flushing my pressure tank. I cleared out much of the sediment, but realized it wouldn't really go away until I filtered the system. I bought 2 filters and created a two-stage filter system. that said, friday night I decided to check the pressure in the bladder of the pressure tank and adjust as necessary. I realized that the bladder was empty, so I hooked it up to my compressor and inflated it to 28 psi (30/50 pressure switch). turned the water back on and check the system. after about 3 mins of good water pressure, it ran dry. not more water. I started freaking, not sure what the problem was. I knew what I had done to change the system, but I couldn't figure out how it negatively affected it. after about 90 mins of screwing around with it, which including breaking off the drain valve from the well tee, replacing it as well as the pressure gauge which was broken, I realized that the pressure switch would kick on when manually, and would kick off at the high end, but would not kick on at the low pressure. turns out the switch was bad, and the tubing leading up to it was clogged solid with sediment, stopping water flow from kicking on/off properly. I started the job at 5 pm and finished around 9:30 that night. 

Saturday, the filter went together and on-line without flaw.


----------



## Ramnares P.E. (Jul 23, 2018)

Driveway is starting to crack, some places are worse than others, and I've started looking around for repaving quotes.  I'd prefer to have the existing torn up and completely redone unless there's a good reason why I should go with recoating.  The surface is 440' x 11'.  I've gotten a couple quotes which seem awfully high.  Any idea what's reasonable $$/sq. ft for paving with blacktop?  No fancy brick trims etc.


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## Road Guy (Jul 23, 2018)

asphalt is usually paid by the ton, so for that area (540 SY) - if you went with 3 IN then that would be around 30 tons (110 LBS/SY)- say you went with a higher cost of asphalt at $100/ ton that would be around $3grand? The smaller guys should be used to dealing with it, but it is a lot of equipment to bring in for a small job so there are going to be some other costs involved I would suspect?

You may see if you could get someone to do some full depth patches of areas - where they cut out the bad spots with a small milling machine and replace - but like a regular road if what's below the pavement is no good, then the problem just repeats itself in a few years - but most homeowners are not going to want to deal with properly prepping the subgrade ($$$)


----------



## Ramnares P.E. (Jul 23, 2018)

That's ^ about what I was thinking ball park.

I got two quotes - $13, 200 and the second, $12, 500  :Failed:


----------



## willsee (Jul 23, 2018)

Ramnares P.E. said:


> That's ^ about what I was thinking ball park.
> 
> I got two quotes - $13, 200 and the second, $12, 500  :Failed:


I just had 1-1/2" overlay on 850 sqft for $1,675


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## Master slacker (Jul 30, 2018)

Concrete people.  I request your assistance.  So I got my deck posts in the ground this past weekend.  The past 3 weeks have been dry with zero rain.  On Saturday, we dig 3 holes, pour in gravel, mix concrete and pour around posts.  Mind you, these 3 are somewhat under the house (pier and beam).  Two hours later (finished for the day) I pack up my tools, clean up the site, and head inside to shower.  As I'm showering, it begins to rain... as in Noah and his ark may be coming down the street at any moment.  We don't have gutters and the roof runoff lands on one side of each footer.  I covered it as quickly as I could, but the damage is already done.  So now there is a washed out line across each footer were the cement is gone and only the rock shows.  It's about 1/2" deep.  What can be done about this?   :hung-037:

Do I just need to clean it and apply a concrete patch from the big orange box? 







Yesterday we got the final 3 posts in the hole and got them covered and protected appropriately.  Sure enough, two hours later, a downpour ensues.  Not worried about these.


----------



## youngmotivatedengineer (Jul 30, 2018)

Do you have a picture of the washout? You mention 1/2" deep, is it just a cosmetic issue at this point that you are trying to correct?


----------



## Master slacker (Jul 30, 2018)

I have no picture.  It probably is just cosmetic, but I'd like to eliminate any spot where water could collect and sit.  They were originally slightly domed so water would shed off.  The footers are overkill at 16"-18" diameter and 12" deep.


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## Dexman PE PMP (Jul 30, 2018)

To be honest, it is entirely cosmetic. If you want, you can apply a layer of grout over the top to "reshape" it a bit if you feel the need, but to be honest you won't see any long term issues compared to other posts.

This is all assuming it's not reshaped into a bowl that will constantly filled with water...


----------



## Road Guy (Jul 30, 2018)

My grandfather (old school ME) once had me dig out the old footings for a deck (that was at most 3’ off the ground) because they were unsymmetrical (12” X14”) or something - but it bothered him so he had me dig them out and we replaced them so they would be “uniform” - RIP Grandpa... hell of a guy - even though he was a little OCD


----------



## cement (Jul 30, 2018)

Use the quickcrete vinyl patch in your picture.  That's a good product. 

But 12" deep?  There's no frost in your area?


----------



## Master slacker (Jul 31, 2018)

Frost?  This is south Louisiana.  We'll get a few nights below freezing each year.  Maybe one or two below 20, but frost is not a concern.  I'm more concerned about the deck catching fire in the summer sun than I am about the footings and frost.


----------



## youngmotivatedengineer (Jul 31, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> Frost?  This is south Louisiana.  We'll get a few nights below freezing each year.  Maybe one or two below 20, but frost is not a concern.  I'm more concerned about the deck catching fire in the summer sun than I am about the footings and frost.


I'd suggest a sprinkler system but the glass may melt from the sun without an actual fire. I remember going to Thibodaux for Spring Break with Habitat for Humanity.  Sun was so strong several people got sunburned on lips and ears the 1st day.


----------



## Jbone27 PE (Aug 20, 2018)

About to tackle the fun job of adding a cleanout to my main line. For some reason my house was only built with a single cleanout and it is over 150' from the tie-in to the sewer. On the semi frequent occasion it gets clogged we have to call in the pros instead me just renting a $30 snake because they are the only ones with longer than 100' snake line.

Quick estimate puts the line about 4-5' deep where I want to access it. Anyone attempted this job with just a shovel and some elbow grease? How big should I anticipate making the hole? 2'x2'?


----------



## MA_PE (Aug 20, 2018)

Jbone27 PE said:


> About to tackle the fun job of adding a cleanout to my main line. For some reason my house was only built with a single cleanout and it is over 150' from the tie-in to the sewer. On the semi frequent occasion it gets clogged we have to call in the pros instead me just renting a $30 snake because they are the only ones with longer than 100' snake line.
> 
> Quick estimate puts the line about 4-5' deep where I want to access it. Anyone attempted this job with just a shovel and some elbow grease? How big should I anticipate making the hole? 2'x2'?


depending on where you're digging you might want to call DIG-SAFE (or similar organization in TX).  Also depending on the soil you're digging into the soil should be either sloped back to the angle of repose or you need a trench box or some other shoring.  5 ft is below OSHA's depth for no protection.  Typical slopes are ~2:1 so to get to 5 feet you're talking about 10 x 10 at the surface.  I'm just citing typical trench safety. 

You said you've had the pros do this before.  How do they access it?


----------



## Audi Driver P.E. (Aug 20, 2018)

.


----------



## Jbone27 PE (Aug 21, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> depending on where you're digging you might want to call DIG-SAFE (or similar organization in TX).  Also depending on the soil you're digging into the soil should be either sloped back to the angle of repose or you need a trench box or some other shoring.  5 ft is below OSHA's depth for no protection.  Typical slopes are ~2:1 so to get to 5 feet you're talking about 10 x 10 at the surface.  I'm just citing typical trench safety.
> 
> You said you've had the pros do this before.  How do they access it?


I had the pros do the cleanout through the existing access point that is over 150' away from sewer tie in. I'm going to be digging to install a new cleanout so that I can use a standard length snake instead of the big industrial one I have to pay the pros to bring. In Texas it is just "Texas One Call" for utility marking and I will definitely call them. As far as the shoring I may not go 100% up to code lol. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 21, 2018)

yeah I'm assuming the depth for a sewer pipe in your yard is probably not that deep?

Is the pipe clay or PVC?

My folks live in florida and after paying someone to clean there's out a couple of times they just paid the money to have some DIP put in and no more problems after that..


----------



## Jbone27 PE (Aug 21, 2018)

Road Guy said:


> yeah I'm assuming the depth for a sewer pipe in your yard is probably not that deep?
> 
> Is the pipe clay or PVC?
> 
> My folks live in florida and after paying someone to clean there's out a couple of times they just paid the money to have some DIP put in and no more problems after that..


I'm hoping its not to far down. We are on a hill is the only reason I'm thinking it may be a little deeper than average.

We actually have steel pipe. Plumber was surprised. It's not very common. Could be part of our issue. 

I'm going to have to look up DIP. Not familiar with it.


----------



## MA_PE (Aug 21, 2018)

DIP = ductile iron pipe.


----------



## Master slacker (Aug 21, 2018)

That shit (DIP) clogs!  I had a lot of our in-the-crawlspace drain replaced with PVC because it didn't drain that well.  Turns out most of the pipe was clogged except for the small spot the pipe snake cut through.  So, in a 2-inch pipe, only a half-inch hole existed.  Same way with the house main drain.


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 21, 2018)

I don't know much about it - but I think they had massive issues with tree roots that PVC wasn't handling very well


----------



## Dleg (Aug 21, 2018)

Clogging is probably more a problem of poor pipe slope or just a shitload of food waste (especially oily / greasy food). DIP shouldn't clog any more readily than PVC or ABS or whatever. I have, however, seen DIP corrode like crazy under certain conditions (salty groundwater) but in most cases, it should be good for 50+ years. Clay pipe can last (theoretically) hundreds of years. Tree roots will get into just about any pipe (clay, ABS, PVC). DIP should be more resistant to root intrusion than the others, but a properly constructed ABS or PVC line should also resist root intrusion. Construction quality is the most important issue - have a good, even slope to the sewer, and bed the pipe so that it doesnt' move out of slope.


----------



## Master slacker (Aug 21, 2018)

Dleg said:


> but in most cases, it should be good for 50+ years.


Our drain piping was around 86 years old or thereabouts.  It looked thick.  Turns out it was sch. 160 pipe.  :blink:


----------



## Supe (Aug 21, 2018)

Hooray for construction project leftovers!


----------



## Jbone27 PE (Aug 21, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> Our drain piping was around 86 years old or thereabouts.  It looked thick.  Turns out it was sch. 160 pipe.  :blink:


62 Years for mine


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 22, 2018)

The 2nd most stressful research for a major home improvement purchase (IMO) next to the home itself, is trying to find the right contractor and price for a new damn roof. &lt;smh&gt;

First quote came in at around $21k. Ya, I don't need another school loan, thanks. The two others were more in line with what I expected at about $13k each. Added to that our sliding patio door for another $2500.


----------



## Jbone27 PE (Aug 22, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> The 2nd most stressful research for a major home improvement purchase (IMO) next to the home itself, is trying to find the right contractor and price for a new damn roof. &lt;smh&gt;
> 
> First quote came in at around $21k. Ya, I don't need another school loan, thanks. The two others were more in line with what I expected at about $13k each. Added to that our sliding patio door for another $2500.


Insurance going to cover any of that?


----------



## knight1fox3 (Aug 22, 2018)

Jbone27 PE said:


> Insurance going to cover any of that?


Negative. House was built in 2000. We moved in near the end of 2009. So really just the house getting to "that age" where certain things will need to be progressively replaced.


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 22, 2018)

that sucks but sounds about what I have heard others cost..

I wouldn't tackle a roof, but the main reason I do stuff myself is just so I don't have to F* with residential contractors, they are the scum of the earth, almost as low as realtors...


----------



## Supe (Aug 23, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> Negative. House was built in 2000. We moved in near the end of 2009. So really just the house getting to "that age" where certain things will need to be progressively replaced.


Just wait until the next hail storm and put in a claim...


----------



## jeb6294 (Aug 23, 2018)

Supe said:


> Just wait until the next hail storm and put in a claim...


Got a good strong leaf blower and a ladder?  You could have some damage from storms up there...just sayin'.


----------



## User1 (Aug 23, 2018)

Mine was about 10k after tax so that seems right


----------



## Road Guy (Aug 27, 2018)

Since one kids room is basically empty we painted it this past weekend since the walls were fairly scuffed up, then got a wild hair up my ass and painted my other boys room, this was the first paint job since the builders, crazy how one room went on with only one coat and the other room the builders painter must have watered down the paint pretty good cause it took 2+ coats for that room (both rooms were an off white color)..

were having a foreign exchange student (female) in September so we figured the only true way to mask the smell of teenage boy is with new paint - should probably burn the carpet too


----------



## Supe (Aug 27, 2018)

And the sock drawer.

Mrs. Supe redid Junior's bedroom.  She bought a gallon of the bargain bin paint, where someone got the wrong color.  It's some shade of greige in what looks like an eggshell finish.  Whatever it was, it covered neon lime green with two coats.


----------



## Road Guy (Sep 5, 2018)

I spent some more time trying to find my sprinkler leak this past weekend,

To summarize so far I replaced all 4 valves that control anything remotely close to this area – (Still a leak / big pond of water)

Replaced the line  and sprinklers that were closest to the lieak (still a leak/ big pond of water)

Did some digging Monday near a bunch of Iris’ plants which are close to the “pond” and find a drip line that had broken off – water not gushing out but defin more than the normal drip line.

So have I wasted a few hundred bucks and 20 hours of time digging up my yard to only need to spend .50 cents on a busted drip line connection? Tell me a busted drip line cant cause a 10FT diameter hold around 2 foot deep full of water??

Guess time will tell if the pond goes away


----------



## Dleg (Sep 5, 2018)

In that Colorado clay?  Over time, as it swells and becomes impermeable, I could see that becoming a pond.


----------



## Master slacker (Sep 5, 2018)

I replaced our shower head yesterday.  The hardest part was deciding between liquid teflon and teflon tape.  :tardbang2:


----------



## snickerd3 (Sep 5, 2018)

we need to replace our shower head or the very least reseat it with new teflon tape.  It drips...but it is also an older shower head.


----------



## Supe (Sep 5, 2018)

Master slacker said:


> I replaced our shower head yesterday.  The hardest part was deciding between liquid teflon and teflon tape.  :tardbang2:


Swagelok SWAK is liquid gold!


----------



## Master slacker (Sep 5, 2018)

Our old shower head was CLR'd occasionally until it couldn't be revived any more.  F it.  Spent $17 on a new one and I think it doubled the resale value of the shower.


----------



## MA_PE (Sep 5, 2018)

you should've gotten some incredible head.

https://www.amazon.com/Alsons-Incredible-Power-Shower-Chrome/product-reviews/B000UNU9US


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## jperry1221 (Sep 20, 2018)

I have a question about building a house pad for our "soon to be built" home.  I'm trying to get quotes for the amount of fill (red clay) I'm going to need, and I didn't really agree with the amount my first quote said.  Does anyone have a way to determine how many 24 cubic yard truck loads I will need adding for compaction?  Our land is not too level, so I'm estimating about 3 feet of fill on average.  The pad is going to be about 95 feet by 85 feet.  Thank you for anyone's input.


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## Road Guy (Sep 21, 2018)

Usually assuming 30% extra for compaction is standard for estimating purposes

But there is actually a fair amount that goes into it including moisture content and what you are using to compact it with. If you are doing this your self you should compact in no more than 12 inch lifts

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jbone27 PE (Sep 21, 2018)

Also I would't assume that a 24 yard truck will deliver exactly 24 cy. I think they usually end up with approximately 80% of the max payload.


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## Road Guy (Nov 6, 2018)

so last week our microwave died (under cabinet -built in whatever its called)

I go to the home depot and after looking at one that closely matches our stove I ask the dude where I can find one "in the box"

Home Depot dude - "We don't stock these (Any 'built in' microwave) anymore in the store, they are in the warehouse and we can ship them to you or you can pick them up at the store in 3 days"

Me - " Your F'n joking right?"

Home Depot Dude - "Most people want these installed so this way its just easier, we deliver and install it, its a failry complicated install"

Me  - "Your F'n joking right? A blind Monkey can install one of those"

Home Depot Dude - " No Sir, most people want them installed"

Me - "Does Bernie Marcus and Arthur Blank know this is going on"?

Home Depot Dude - "Who are they?"

Turns and walks away, drives to Lowes, picks out same model, puts it in buggey, takes home and installs in around 20 minutes..

sad times...... I mean if I wanted it delivered I would just order it via amazon prime for nuttin!


----------



## MA_PE (Nov 6, 2018)

I installed/replaced one of moicrowave/range hood units for my Aunt.  Thank god she had saved the instruction manual for the original one because I would've had a hell of a time reverse engineering the connections that held that one to the wall.  IIRC, it had a wall-mounted hanger type bracket on the back wall and tilted forward.  The main fasteners were hidden under some ttrim.  Not really intuitive.  The new one however bolted from above and was pretty obvious.


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## Supe (Nov 6, 2018)

That's why I usually go to Best Buy if I need an appliance ASAP.  They always stock them.  I wish they would just standardize the damn mounts like they do on TV's...


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## Road Guy (Nov 6, 2018)

no kidding, same brand and at first glance the brackets and holes in the cabinet top were the same, but oh noooo lets change them by a half an inch just for shits and giggles!


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## Supe (Nov 6, 2018)

That's exactly what happened when I switched from a GE to a Whirlpool.  Of course, nobody was home and I had to do it all holding it with one hand...


----------



## User1 (Nov 8, 2018)

So i've installed ceiling fans before / I understand the basics of the wiring, but I currently have a single hideous light fixture in my cramped powder room, which is severely off center of the vanity/mirror, and definitely not centered in the wall/room... how difficult is it to shift a light fixture over like 6 inches? 

also, the room has what I can assume is some sort of vinyl/plastic textured paneling? I'm curious what is behind it. does anyone have experience with this kind of wall covering and what it was usually put over? The house was built in 1910 and I am not sure this was always a bathroom?


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## MA_PE (Nov 8, 2018)

so you're moving a wall fixture laterally.   First thing is to remove the fixture and see how it's hung and f there's an electrical box behind it or if the wire just comes through the wall to the fixture.  Then you need to see  if there are wall studs between the existing location and where you want to relocate to.  If there's a stud in the way, you'll  need to open the wall enough to drill a hole through the stud to get your wire to the other side (and hopefully you have enough wire to reach the new location).  If the existing wire isn't long enough then you'll need to trace it back to the nearest box and run a new wire.  You can't splice a wire and bury it inside the wall.  Splices/connections need to be inside a box or fixture.

If there's a box where the light is you need to move the box too or cover it with a blank switch plate (again you can't just bury a box inside wall).

Of course you then have to patch/fix and paint the wall.

Could be an easy task.....could be a PITA.

Disclaimer:  I'm a DIYer without any formal electrical/wiring training but have installed fixtures and run new wires in my house.  My reply is how I'd approach your problem.  Let the flaming arrows begin.


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## Master slacker (Nov 8, 2018)

Remove the fixture from the wall and discard the screws that held it there.  Move it over to where you want it and, if you have a helper, have the helper hold it in place while you hammer two 10d nails through the fixture to temporarily secure it to the wall.  If you don't have a helper, get your framing nailer out and use your free hand to pop a few nails in place.  Now, while the nails are curing, quickly apply Elmer's glue (the kindergarten variety is fine) to the border of the fixture where it meets the wall.  If it seeps behind the fixture, keep applying glue until it doesn't.  If you're at this point, well, grab yourself a metal coat hanger and fish the wires out of the wall because you should've thought about this ahead of time.  Metal works best because it's thin and can really get in those tight spots you'll be jabbing and yanking in.  Get some extra wire from a ceiling fan kit (colors don't matter, copper is copper after all) and cut / splice the fixture wiring using the same glue you used between the fixture and wall.  Money saving and no special trips to the store for the expensive stuff.  For any holes or other openings left in the wall from this project, grab yourself you masking tape and tape over them and then paint over it to conceal your patch.  Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 8, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> You can't splice a wire and bury it inside the wall.  Splices/connections need to be inside a box or fixture.


:rotflmao:   I'll bet you were "that" kid...."oooh, teacher, teacher, you forgot to give us homework"


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## MA_PE (Nov 8, 2018)

jeb6294 said:


> :rotflmao:   I'll bet you were "that" kid...."oooh, teacher, teacher, you forgot to give us homework"


so what's your point.........??


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## Bot-Man (Nov 8, 2018)

MA_PE said:


> so what's your point.........??


I’m trying to figure that out as well. Your post was accurate. The splice needs to be in a junction box. I’m not familiar with the rules nationwide but I’m still willing to bet that it’s code everywhere.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 14, 2018)

As mentioned in the T-Giving post, got an electric smoker the other day.







It's a digital controller, which is one of the only things people seem to have problems with, but usually it's from being exposed to the elements.  So, I would like to build an enclosure for the smoker on the back patio.  My question is, how tight should said enclosure be?  Does it just need to have walls and a roof to keep the rain out?  Would it be better to have something insulated that keeps most of the elements out?  I'm leaning towards something simple thinking that it's better to keep air circulating to prevent condensation.


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## Supe (Nov 15, 2018)

Humidity and freezing temps can damage those controllers.


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## knight1fox3 (Dec 20, 2018)

Time for a change to the unfinished portion of the basement! @Road Guy, if you're willing to share, when all said and done with everything you recently did, how much did it end up costing?

Before:




Progress so far:


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## Dexman PE PMP (Dec 20, 2018)

^^^ No floating walls in the basement?


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## Supe (Dec 20, 2018)

So no more leg lifts or pull ups?  I didn't think you of all people would build a basement that wasn't Tony Horton approved.


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## Master slacker (Dec 20, 2018)

Whatever animal you keep down there must've gotten A LOT bigger.  Either that or you got a new pet that ate the other.


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## JayKay PE (Dec 20, 2018)

Will there be one of those cool fireplaces made of glass so you can look in-between the two rooms?


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## Road Guy (Dec 20, 2018)

Dexman PE PMP said:


> ^^^ No floating walls in the basement?


I think that's soil dependent, we never did that in the SE either - but had to do it here


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## kevo_55 (Dec 20, 2018)

KF, did you have that inspected?

If not, I won't tell.


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## knight1fox3 (Dec 20, 2018)

Dexman PE PMP said:


> ^^^ No floating walls in the basement?


Negative Ghost Rider.



Supe said:


> So no more leg lifts or pull ups?  I didn't think you of all people would build a basement that wasn't Tony Horton approved.


Just wait. Tony's going to want to come over and use this room for his next training regiment when I'm done with it.



kevo_55 said:


> KF, did you have that inspected?
> 
> If not, I won't tell.


Of course I did, even stamped the plans myself! :thumbs:


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## knight1fox3 (Dec 26, 2018)

knight1fox3 said:


> Time for a change to the unfinished portion of the basement! @Road Guy, if you're willing to share, when all said and done with everything you recently did, how much did it end up costing?


Inquiring minds still want to know (whole dollar amount)?


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## Road Guy (Dec 26, 2018)

For just under 1000 SF with full bathroom it was around $25k.including flooring

I paid a guy around $18k to stub electrical, frame and rock it and then I did everything else. That includes some plumbing but it was the cheapest I could find.

People wanted almost 10 Large to do the bathroom - prices around here are insane if you hire out

Only thing I haven’t done yet is the stairs from the main house into the basement - they are carpet but look like shit.


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## Road Guy (Dec 28, 2018)

@knight1fox3 I found the estimate - I was shocked too! - but this was the lowest guy I had price it - and several folks wouldn't even come look at it if the "project" was under $50K..

I had to kind of pull a "Richard Move" -  after it was sheet rocked and mudded I told the guy I had some unforeseen expenses come up and would need to push the rest of the project until next year.  I think he had another (better job) lined up so he didn't whine too much but I could tell he was not happy - it was difficult to even get a breakdown like this from him or any others- they would just list a lump sum price and then want to paid every 2 weeks - I wasn't willing to deal with anyone that wanted a third payment up front either..

But I wasn't about to pay $6 grand for painting and molding / doors (I had a total of 3 doors)- I also saved over a grand doing the finish on the electrical myself &amp; outlets and circuit breakers and such) I couldn't believe what people want, I think I had 10 can lights, 20 outlets, 5 switched and 6 circuit breakers and the electrician wanted like nearly $1500 to do that and said it would take under a day?  Also the plumbing cost was only rough in, they set the shower pan and the toilet / sink rough in and I did the rest, I think the total cost for them to do the bathroom was $5G's or more (&amp; that wasn't a tile shower)

But this give kind of a breakdown of cost if your want something to compare by, and this was around 900 SF and no real rooms just one big open floor plan, framed out a bathroom, framed around my utility stuff but  I left everything else open..

Sheetrock ended up being around $6K and framing $4500 so he was actually good about his estimates being a little over, but we didn't do anything extra along the way.. I am glad its done and hope to never have to do another one.. (this is my 3rd basement finish)


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## Road Guy (Jan 2, 2019)

Over the hellidays I made the kid a little corner desk for his PC, couldn't really find one that fit his room layout so I just made one out of 1/2 " cabinet grade plywood. but I used pipe fittings for the shelf brackets (these shown were about $40/ EA)

He had gotten a better monitor (not pictured) for Christmas that didn't fit on his old desk.

the carpet is hideous and will be replaced but its far down on the list!


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## knight1fox3 (Jan 5, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> @knight1fox3 I found the estimate - I was shocked too! - but this was the lowest guy I had price it - and several folks wouldn't even come look at it if the "project" was under $50K..
> 
> I had to kind of pull a "Richard Move" -  after it was sheet rocked and mudded I told the guy I had some unforeseen expenses come up and would need to push the rest of the project until next year.  I think he had another (better job) lined up so he didn't whine too much but I could tell he was not happy - it was difficult to even get a breakdown like this from him or any others- they would just list a lump sum price and then want to paid every 2 weeks - I wasn't willing to deal with anyone that wanted a third payment up front either..
> 
> ...


Just finally getting back to this. Thanks for the comparison info, much appreciated. With the (2) rooms being added, for approximately 706 SF, the initial estimate was about $27K. After reviewing, I was able to cut that down to just above $20K (what we budgeted for). The contractor had originally specified solid core doors and high-end oak trim. I told him to give me the "Aldi's Brand" on some of that stuff and will do the flooring myself. I'm also doing all the speaker, HDMI, and network cabling such that it will all feed to a combination wall plate ready for a flat screen TV mount. Floor plan and quote details below for reference. Looking forward to having the extra space! :thumbs:






> *PROJECT: PARTIAL BASEMENT REMODEL*
> 
> PLANNING
> Design Services
> ...


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## Master slacker (Jan 25, 2019)

So my very unique garage door mechanism poo poo'd and the solution is probably easier than I'm making it out to be.  I don't know.  It's vintage 1930's and works with a vertical spring mounted on square tubing that attaches to the garage door with a roller at its pivot point (see picture and pardon the mess - Spring cleaning is coming).  The spring is held in place at the top and the bottom travels up / down with the tubing.  The tippy top of the door has a small rod attached to the frame of the garage.  As the door is opened / closed, the roller on the door travels up / down in a channel and the tubing (with spring) travels up / down constrained to a channel at the bottom.  The rollers are plum wore out, but it's such a simple setup that it keeps on working.  Anywho, the bad side had the tubing break at the bottom plate that is constrained to the channel.  I think it hit something when the door was closed one time and broke it.  I could probably fix it with a welder, but I don't have a welder.  Has anyone else seen this kind of setup before?  What is it called?




dog tax


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## knight1fox3 (Jan 25, 2019)

Master slacker said:


> Has anyone else seen this kind of setup before?  What is it called?


Nope. But I feel compelled to find the mechanical engineer who designed this and strike them repeatedly with a tack hammer.


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## P-E (Jan 25, 2019)

knight1fox3 said:


> Nope. But I feel compelled to find the mechanical engineer who designed this and strike them repeatedly with a tack hammer.


That looks like it was designed by an electrical engineer.


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## kevo_55 (Jan 26, 2019)

I've never seen that before.

How hard would it be to get a more conventional set up? What about one of those torsional spring set ups?


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## MA_PE (Jan 26, 2019)

Looks like a one-piece door.  I’ve never seen that type of setup but it looks pretty simple.  If you can dismantle and separate the pieces that need to be welded, then just take them to a local shop and have the guy weld them for you.  Might charge you $20 and you’re back in action.


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## Road Guy (Feb 4, 2019)

So this summer I am wanting to add an arbor to our back deck. The back deck is "yuge" and I want to just arbor over some of it as shown in the #MSPAINT photo below:

Due to roofline on the house I was struggling with where to anchor in the arbor, but does right under the roofline make sense? (just thinking out loud) - I also wanted to keep the railing on the deck and reinforce the beams that will be needed under the deck so I don't have to cut into the deck - but not against doing that if I need to (like add a 4X6 under the deck into a foundation to carry the load)

But I just want to add the arbor about where shown and then I would have the open deck area (where I would move the grill to) and then move the seating area under the arbor - mainly just trying to find a way to sit outside and not stare at my neighbors &amp; not have a 20" span of arbor - that's the dimension from the back of the house to the back of the deck




apligize for the mess, wind blew the screen door off last week   wind blew those chairs to that side of the deck!


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## Supe (Feb 4, 2019)

We have a raised deck (about 3 feet) that I'd like to add a screened in porch to.  Part of me says f*ck it, just do it with HOA approval, and part of me says I should get it permitted so I don't have to worry about "unpermitted additions" for resale.  My only concern is being able to put a shade up to block the asshole neighbor's view.


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## Master slacker (Feb 5, 2019)

I've been wanting to add a shed roof to my now-smaller deck for a while.  Something to keep the harsh summer morning sun off the side of the house (no insulation) and to be able to keep things outside, even in the rain, and not get soaked (shoes with chicken or dog sh*t on them).  The deck is solid, but don't want to concrete any more 6x6's and would rather anchor them to the deck / beams as they are.  Haven't found a tidy solution yet.


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## User1 (Feb 5, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> So this summer I am wanting to add an arbor to our back deck. The back deck is "yuge" and I want to just arbor over some of it as shown in the #MSPAINT photo below:
> 
> Due to roofline on the house I was struggling with where to anchor in the arbor, but does right under the roofline make sense? (just thinking out loud) - I also wanted to keep the railing on the deck and reinforce the beams that will be needed under the deck so I don't have to cut into the deck - but not against doing that if I need to (like add a 4X6 under the deck into a foundation to carry the load)
> 
> ...


my only concern with attaching to the top of deck (like through the deck to a reinforced beam location) is lateral movement/lack of resistance - if you get that wind is it gonna snap the posts off the deck? so it could be a pretty hefty connection (read: not aesthetically pleasing) and I would recommend cutting a slot for the post to slide down and attach into the side of your reinforced beam to resist some of the rotation and look nicer / concealed in the end. my $0.02


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## Road Guy (Feb 5, 2019)

So what I was mentally planning is to make a footer under the deck for support like dis:






We do get crazy winds here - do you really think the weight of the arbor wouldn’t be enough to offset the winds? I hadn’t thought about that angle.  Is there a thought of XX pounds will resist X mph winds?

I’m thinking I’ll have 6X6 posts with several 2x10/12 and such up top for weight?

Maybe it will just be easier to remove some deck boards and put the post directly into the concrete footing and reconstruct the deck around the posts..


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## humner (Feb 5, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> @knight1fox3 I found the estimate - I was shocked too! - but this was the lowest guy I had price it - and several folks wouldn't even come look at it if the "project" was under $50K..
> 
> I had to kind of pull a "Richard Move" -  after it was sheet rocked and mudded I told the guy I had some unforeseen expenses come up and would need to push the rest of the project until next year.  I think he had another (better job) lined up so he didn't whine too much but I could tell he was not happy - it was difficult to even get a breakdown like this from him or any others- they would just list a lump sum price and then want to paid every 2 weeks - I wasn't willing to deal with anyone that wanted a third payment up front either..
> 
> ...


You have the plumbing on the outside wall.  Flip your bathroom around so you have access to the tub/shower from under the stairs.


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## mudpuppy (Feb 5, 2019)

@Road Guy Was your basement already plumbed for the toilet, sink and shower drains?

I'm thinking about adding a tub in my basement, but we'd have (1) figure out where the drain runs, and (2) cut the slab to get to it.  How much of a PITA would that turn into?  The whole basement is finished already so I'd have to tear out carpet, etc.


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## Road Guy (Feb 5, 2019)

humner - that would have been a good idea to rotate the bathroom! (But too late its done) But I would have had to relocate the toilet drains. The shower drain probably would have been good to go either direction. 

MP- yeah it was already plumbed in for the toilet and shower.

In my old house we cut into the basement slab to move the bathroom location, I just rented a jack-hammer from Home Depot and made some saw cuts with a concrete blade on a  circular saw. It was a PIA and I only moved it around 10 FT.  I would maybe get someone to chase that down for you as to where the drains go - I would think that would be a substantial effort


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## wilheldp_PE (Feb 5, 2019)

I did some wiring last night, and it took more cussing than I budgeted for.  I got a couple of new receptacles wired up with one of them being switched.  I took some continuity measurements before turning the breaker back on, and kept finding 40 ohms between hot and neutral.  I was convinced that I had damaged a piece of Romex somewhere by pulling or hitting it while installing things.  After not being able to find any obvious damage to the wiring, I finally decided to try unplugging everything attached to that circuit.  Turns out I had a bunch of wall warts plugged into a power strip on this circuit.  They have been sitting there burning 360 watts continuously for god knows how long.


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## User1 (Feb 5, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> We do get crazy winds here - do you really think the weight of the arbor wouldn’t be enough to offset the winds? I hadn’t thought about that angle.  Is there a thought of XX pounds will resist X mph winds?
> 
> I’m thinking I’ll have 6X6 posts with several 2x10/12 and such up top for weight?
> ﻿
> Maybe it will just be easier to remove some deck boards and put the post directly into the concrete footing and reconstruct the deck around the pos﻿ts..﻿


This is what I was thinking. you could sister the deck joists around your new post. depending on your access to the underside, you would only have to cut out like one piece of deck, trim it down and replace. could use threaded rods with bolts and washers on either side. no foundation work necessary. i'm sure the foundations you have are fine for the additional weight. 

to answer your gravity vs wind load question, the wind will push upward too, so i wouldn't count on anything to actually resist enough to not move.


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## kevo_55 (Feb 5, 2019)

Nice drawing, but don't bolts go through everything?


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## leggo PE (Feb 5, 2019)

Not all bolts are thrubolts!


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## kevo_55 (Feb 5, 2019)

I don't know about you, but I wouldn't build a deck with those things.


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## knight1fox3 (Feb 5, 2019)

mudpuppy said:


> I'm thinking about adding a tub in my basement, but we'd have (1) figure out where the drain runs, and (2) cut the slab to get to it.  How much of a PITA would that turn into?  The whole basement is finished already so I'd have to tear out carpet, etc.


I was also considering this for the other part of the basement we are presently finishing. Ended up being too much of a pain, both effort and $$ wise because it would involve similar work you described.


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## humner (Feb 11, 2019)

knight1fox3 said:


> I was also considering this for the other part of the basement we are presently finishing. Ended up being too much of a pain, both effort and $$ wise because it would involve similar work you described.


Keep it simple.  Elevate the tub and go out the base of the foundation wall.


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## Supe (Feb 11, 2019)

Trying to figure if I need to add/increase deck footers if I add a screened in porch.  See note A from the county regs:




I'm probably overthinking this, but how would you all interpret note A?  Would you interpret this note to mean that the table value accounts for a single floor + single roof value as calculated from a plan view, or that single floor + roof = additive?  i.e., if my tributary area for JUST the deck was 36 feet, would I double it to 72 if adding a roof?


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## Supe (Feb 12, 2019)

Wow, county replied in &lt; 24 hours!  Turns out my assumption was correct - the values account for 1 deck + 1 roof, no need to double it.

Anyone have any luck getting rid of yard moles?  Little bastard migrated over from my dickhead neighbor's yard, and is popping up all over my front yard now.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 12, 2019)

Uhhh, somebody shoot me.  It's literally been raining for 2 straight days now.  Wife says water started backing up in the storage room in the basement the other day.  I think the sump pump was cycling so often that the float got hung up.  Gave the float a good shake, moved the pump away from the crock a little bit and it started working again.  Only issue was some wet carpet just outside the storage room.  Not a huge deal, it's happened a time or two before, just put some fans on it and crank up the dehumidifier.

Went down this morning and there's wet carpet at the bottom of the stairs. :hung-037:   Being a finished basement, I can't see what's going on at all.  There's a little access just to the right of it to get to the water shutoff and the little I could see was dry.  More fans and dehumidifier and then I guess just hope the rain finally stops for a little while and see if it's just a matter of too much rain for too long.


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## humner (Feb 13, 2019)

jeb6294 said:


> Uhhh, somebody shoot me.  It's literally been raining for 2 straight days now.  Wife says water started backing up in the storage room in the basement the other day.  I think the sump pump was cycling so often that the float got hung up.  Gave the float a good shake, moved the pump away from the crock a little bit and it started working again.  Only issue was some wet carpet just outside the storage room.  Not a huge deal, it's happened a time or two before, just put some fans on it and crank up the dehumidifier.
> 
> Went down this morning and there's wet carpet at the bottom of the stairs. :hung-037:   Being a finished basement, I can't see what's going on at all.  There's a little access just to the right of it to get to the water shutoff and the little I could see was dry.  More fans and dehumidifier and then I guess just hope the rain finally stops for a little while and see if it's just a matter of too much rain for too long.


are you in a flat area?


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## jeb6294 (Feb 13, 2019)

humner said:


> are you in a flat area?


Definitely not...but this is the first time I can remember getting rain for so long that there's been standing water in the front yard which is why I'm hoping that's it's just a matter of waiting for it to dry out some.

We're the yellow house.  The front yard slopes gradually towards the front of the house and then around towards the sides.  From there it's utter madness.  Around the south side of the house it's got a significant slope (I can mow it on the rider, but there's some serious pucker factor) down to the creek.  Around the north side of the house is even worse.  It's drops down to the creek so fast that I can't even mow it with the push mower.  It's bad enough that we tilled up most of the hillside and started planting ground cover last spring.  There's still a strip about 1-1/2 mower decks wide right at the property line.  To get that I go over the edge on the rider, hang on tight, hope I don't get turned sideways, run around the house back to the top and repeat.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 13, 2019)

Oh, and I didn't do the whole street, but the whole thing slopes down to our cul-de-sac.  It's curb and gutter though so we don't see any of that water in the yard.


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## kevo_55 (Feb 13, 2019)

Hmm, is someone's underground sprinkler system leaking?


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## Dexman PE PMP (Feb 13, 2019)

kevo_55 said:


> Hmm, is someone's underground sprinkler system leaking?


Has @Road Guystill not fixed it?


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## Road Guy (Feb 13, 2019)

Nope - just gonna replace all 4 zones in the spring


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## humner (Feb 14, 2019)

Sounds like perimeter drainage is insufficient.  On the foundation walls, install dimple membrane on the outside.  

Upgrade the perimeter drainage.


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## Supe (Feb 18, 2019)

About 3/4 done with redoing our downstairs half bath.  Wife bought fixtures before we redid the tile, but I was tired of having vanities, lights, etc. stacked in my entryway, so I just decided to do it and we'll pull the vanity when the tile gets redone.  Went from baby turd green to all white with shiplap behind the sink.  Only PITA part will be redoing the drain for the sink, since the stub out on the wall is super low.  The old pedestal sink went straight down and the P trap includes a downward facing 90 right on the stub, but the new sink is further forward and can't go that low since there's a drawer below the sink.


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## Road Guy (Feb 18, 2019)

I don't think I have ever done a sink where it lined up - even when its roughed in for that cabinet!

you could get this for your bathroom? 

https://www.amazon.com/ADORE-Plush-Stuffed-Animal-Walltoy/dp/B01401PVLC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550504115&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=bear+head+wall+decor

I am ready to 86 my "master" bathroom -  it has carpet in it and its going to be my first spring project to tile it and maybe do some other crazy shit - Its (the carpet)  just fucking disgusting.

It was built with a shit load of lights and they are all tied to one switch, along with an exhaust fan which is noisy - Havent looked behind the plate yet but hoping to separate some of these out, When I get dressed in the morning I don't need 1,000,000 giga watts of power!


----------



## Supe (Feb 18, 2019)

I think I can just put a 90 straight off the sink drain, and then another 90 downhill into the P trap and be fine.  Cleaning it will be a bitch, since its covered with old paint/drywall mud.

Got the first quote for the walk in shower - $5K labor without tile or fixture, but includes all other materials including shower door.  Is that absurdly high?  Granted, it's a big space, probably about 4'x6'x8'.  Includes the concrete floor pan, bench, and combo niche.


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## Road Guy (Feb 18, 2019)

Doesn't seem too far off what folks get these days, is that some demo work and getting all the plumbing re routed?

everyone i know pricing bathrooms is paying a lot to have them done. Would that also include the labor to install the tile or would that cost be extra?


----------



## Supe (Feb 18, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> Doesn't seem too far off what folks get these days, is that some demo work and getting all the plumbing re routed?
> 
> everyone i know pricing bathrooms is paying a lot to have them done. Would that also include the labor to install the tile or would that cost be extra?


That includes demo, relocating the drain, moving the control valves, and installing the tile.  Everything but the shower head and tile itself.


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## Supe (Feb 19, 2019)

Finally done with all the bathroom paint work.  I must have THE worst luck with paint, because it took 3-4 coats of Sherwin Williams "Infinity" line to get decent coverage.  The ONLY big box store brands I've had any luck with in painting were the two cheapest - Glidden and Behr! 

Thankfully the shiplap stuck out further than I thought it would, so the vanity didn't hit the baseboard/quarter round combo and leave a gap between the sink and the wall like I thought it was going to.  

Got the drain situation sorted, just need to check to make sure it doesn't hit the two top drawers which are shortened and have a cutout for the drain.  An S trap would have been perfect, but those aren't allowed anymore, so I had to make a C shaped jog out to the right instead.  Finishing that off tonight, hanging the mirror and TP/towel holders, and calling it done.


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## Road Guy (Apr 1, 2019)

Water Heater did last night,  mrs rg drained the last of the how water I think before I jumped in..

although we have gas, this looks like a relatively easy install, except I suck at sweating pipe. and apparently I am supposed to get a "high altitude" water heater? Debating just doing this myself and then maybe paying a handyman to help me with sweat the pipe since it looks like the average same day install price I am seeing nearly a god damned grand 

but that sweating pipe shit is a skill I wish I had mastered a long time ago, would come in handy..


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## MA_PE (Apr 1, 2019)

RG:  that sucks.

Is the grand for a new heater installed or just the installation cost?  If it's the whole deal, that doesn't sound too bad.  The other key question is: Are there shutoffs to isolate the HWH or do you need to drain the system?  Another thing to consider is disposal of the old one.  Will the installer take it away?


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## mudpuppy (Apr 1, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> Water Heater did last night,  mrs rg drained the last of the how water I think before I jumped in..
> 
> although we have gas, this looks like a relatively easy install, except I suck at sweating pipe. and apparently I am supposed to get a "high altitude" water heater? Debating just doing this myself and then maybe paying a handyman to help me with sweat the pipe since it looks like the average same day install price I am seeing nearly a god damned grand
> 
> but that sweating pipe shit is a skill I wish I had mastered a long time ago, would come in handy..




Personally I like the security of sweating, but a lot of people swear by shark bite.  Runs about $40 for a kit:  https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-3-4-in-X-3-4-in-FIP-Water-Heater-Connection-Kit-24680/300593719  Water heaters now seem to have plastic in the inlet as a heat trap, so you can't solder onto them anyway or you'll melt it--need a union or coupling instead.

Still might be worth going the handyman route and have him teach you.  Or buy some pipe and fittings to practice first.  Thing is copper is so damn expensive now that might not be worth it. 

My sweats never turn out pretty, but they hold water which is the important part!  I'm usually more worried I'm going to burn down the house in the process.


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## Road Guy (Apr 1, 2019)

Unit is $800 and install,permit(fuck that) and carry away was another $900. A little less if I can wait till Thursday - no thanks!

If I could find one the exact height as my old one I could just unscrew it from the old one and not need to cut the pipe but so far no such luck...

And I have used shark bites for some things before but I think for this I’d just prefer to have a solid connection..

I left it draining before I went shopping cause apparently that takes a while...

The thought has occurred to me I can just put all of this on the HD card and pay it off over 12 months for 0 % interest...


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## Supe (Apr 1, 2019)

Can you shim it up off the floor to match the old height?


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## MA_PE (Apr 1, 2019)

Making sweat joints is actually pretty easy.  just need to clean it use some flux and assemble.  heat the pipe way from the joint and then touch the solder to the joint until it sucks it in.  Wipe and done.  Is the $900 from a local plumber?  I'd try a few....seems high.  Sounds to me like the guy is busy and really doesn't want to bother with it.


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## Road Guy (Apr 1, 2019)

Supe - Looks like my size is shorter and fatter than my old one so I have to add pipe, which is actually better..

MA- yeah called several, all are about in that price range and none will do it on the sly without a permit - apparently I need a new overflow tank or some other BS new code.. These people are borderline criminals..

So I am doing this myself, going to use shark bites and then find someone to sweat in the pipe for me later, surprisingly those are OK by code, they should be for $35/EA  - just lugged it down the stairs to the basement... also not adding in the overflow tank...


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## jeb6294 (Apr 1, 2019)

It really isn’t very hard at all...watch a few YouTube videos.  Whats there now?  Could you connect with braided steel lines?


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## mudpuppy (Apr 1, 2019)

RG, are you talking about an expansion tank?  I had lots of trouble at my old house with valves leaking and the water heater temperature-pressure valve opening.  It turns out there was a check valve at my meter to prevent water being pushed back out into the city water system (I think they added it with the lawn sprinkler pump.)  When the water heater would kick on, the water would expand and have nowhere to go, so it would overpressure the system until something leaked.  I added a small expansion tank and the problem went away.

The tank wasn't very hard to add (but did require some soldering.)


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## Road Guy (Apr 1, 2019)

MP- yes that's what I meant. expansion tank,   I picked one up with a T- connector but don't know if I am going to put it in this go round just yet.

Jeb - If this happened on a Saturday Id be more up for trying out a new skill but just want to get this done before the wife gets home after working 3 - 14 hour shifts and is able to take a shower.   But if it ever warms up I am gonna do some practice runs, as I am adding a bar to my basement this summer and would like to not spend the money on shark bites for all that jazz..

But the tank comes with flex tubing at the top and makes it fairly easy to connect with the shark bites - and just as easy to sweat them later..  I thought I could use the same PVC for the air exhaust fan (or whatever that's called) but hopefully this is my 4th and final trip to the home depot today 

Now I just have to find a bridge to throw the old one off of   - j/k actually Home Depot here takes it back for free I just have to lug the god damn thing back up there..


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## Road Guy (Apr 2, 2019)

Took nearly all damn day-interrupted by “work” multiple times. Found someone on Nextdoor to sweat the pipe for $100 bucks (retired dude that does handyman stuff) but cheaper than the shark bites so I took them back.... 
now everyone is complaining the water is too hot.... damn dependents.....


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## mudpuppy (Apr 2, 2019)

I put my old water heater by the curb and it was gone within 10 minutes... but I lived in redneckville and you live in a nice HOA-type area.


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## Road Guy (Apr 2, 2019)

Home depot let me recycle it with them for $35 bucks since I bought one from them, still seems like a scam but I just had my 16 year old haul the thing up there. I told him he could keep the $35 bucks as long as he didn't come back with the old water heater...


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## Road Guy (Apr 2, 2019)

So my next spring project is going to be to continue my backyard sprinkler repair – last year we spend a few hundred trying to find the leak so this time around I am just going to replace all of the lines from one control box that basically go to the backyard.

 

Last year I replaced one line and all 4 valves that come out of the box – so I have three lines or zones to do this year. 

 

My yard is relatively small and has:

 

1 Zone for Drip Lines (trees around the perimeter) - Will do this last cause I don't think this one is the one leaking

3 zones for the perimeter sprinklers which water the grass (of which one of these I replaced last year but that didn't fix my pond situation)

1 zone for 3 heads in the middle of the yard to water where the perimeter sprinklers do not reach

 

From doing some window shopping I have some fairly cheap heads so I was hoping I could “upgrade” the heads along the perimeter and not replace the ones in the center?

 

General plan is to rent a ditch witch and get most of this done over a weekend..

 

Anything I need to plan or account for? Just trying to put some thoughts out there


----------



## Jbone27 PE (Jun 3, 2019)

So I have recently purchased a new home and we will be closing in a couple weeks. I have been doing some research and think I may have convinced myself that I can install my own inground pool. I would be purchasing all the same materials the pros use online and likely going with an inground vinyl lined option. I want to do the dig, pool walls, plumbing, pump, and liner on my own. I would leave the finish concrete and electric (if any) to a pro.

Anyone attempted this or found a reason to talk themselves out of it?


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## Master slacker (Jun 3, 2019)

Watch out for the poo poo pipe.


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## Road Guy (Jun 3, 2019)

assuming you have access and means to an excavator - the only problem is usually having someplace to get rid of the dirt &amp; trucking it there - I did some re-grading of my backyard back in the day and it was much harder than I thought just getting rid of 15 Cy of dirt..


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## Jbone27 PE (Jun 4, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> assuming you have access and means to an excavator - the only problem is usually having someplace to get rid of the dirt &amp; trucking it there - I did some re-grading of my backyard back in the day and it was much harder than I thought just getting rid of 15 Cy of dirt..


I plan on renting an excavator and have truck/trailer to move it. Prelim pool dimensions put me at around 100 CY so even with some place to go with the spoil I'll still have to get a small dump truck to haul it.I think the typical load is about 14 CY. I'll have to price that out for sure. If I am not able to save at least 60% over what the installed price would be I don't see it being worth the hassle.

Other than that I feel pretty confident I can get it done. It will be a fun one an I'll probably regret attempting it halfway through but think I'm going to go for it. 

Pic is from the dist. website.


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## jeb6294 (Jun 5, 2019)

Jbone27 PE said:


> I plan on renting an excavator and have truck/trailer to move it. Prelim pool dimensions put me at around 100 CY so even with some place to go with the spoil I'll still have to get a small dump truck to haul it.I think the typical load is about 14 CY. I'll have to price that out for sure. If I am not able to save at least 60% over what the installed price would be I don't see it being worth the hassle.


Put something on Craigslist or your local FB Marketplace.  You may get find someone looking for fill who would be willing to haul it away.


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## Road Guy (Jun 7, 2019)

So i bought what I call an "Obama" sprinkler system controller - Orbit B-Hyve - it came with a $100 rebate (received and I already cashed that check!)

I really like the set up as it can be controlled 100% by an app on your phone - It allowed me to easily turn zones off - which I was using to try and narrow down where my leak is - but my gripe is that it is dialed into your WIFI location and if any rain shows up at all then it turns the sprinkler off for 3 days, I am down with saving water but living in the mix of the desert / mountains / plains it can be a torrential downpour  a block away and dry as a bone at my house.  I tried changing my zip code on the controller to Las Vegas where it hardly rains and it auto changed it back to my actual zip code.

Gonna see if there is a way around this and if not will be taking it back to the home depot this weekend and getting another version that is more flexible.


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Jun 7, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> So i bought what I call an "Obama" sprinkler system controller - Orbit B-Hyve - it came with a $100 rebate (received and I already cashed that check!)
> 
> I really like the set up as it can be controlled 100% by an app on your phone - It allowed me to easily turn zones off - which I was using to try and narrow down where my leak is - but my gripe is that it is dialed into your WIFI location and if any rain shows up at all then it turns the sprinkler off for 3 days, I am down with saving water but living in the mix of the desert / mountains / plains it can be a torrential downpour  a block away and dry as a bone at my house.  I tried changing my zip code on the controller to Las Vegas where it hardly rains and it auto changed it back to my actual zip code.
> 
> Gonna see if there is a way around this and if not will be taking it back to the home depot this weekend and getting another version that is more flexible.


I’ve got my eyes on the Rainbird ST80-WIFI for mine; also allows control from your phone. You can attach an external rain sensor to it, so that the timer stops when it “actually” rains. Seems like there is the question of whether or not this is used in conjunction with the weather forecast, though.


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## Road Guy (Jun 7, 2019)

From the description of the ST80 it is similar to the Orbit - I cant seem to find a way around the #3 - It wont even test a zone if the "internets" say it rained in the last 24 hours -

I may just put my dinosaur back up.

_Built from the existing feature rich Rain Bird ST8 platform, the ST8 2.0 offers faster connection speeds as well as multiple added features including: 1) EPA Watersense certification, which will allow customers to submit to municipalities for rebates; 2) better understanding of water usage through statistics/reporting capabilities;* 3) automatic watering shutoff for forested rain; *4) improved custom manual watering from the Rain Bird app_


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## Road Guy (Jun 11, 2019)

After spending too much time chasing down other problems with the sprinker controller, I basically just did a CTRL-ALT-DEl and now that God Damn thing seems to be working fine - I went ahead and entered my zip zode as Las Vegas, NV so hopefully that will end the auto shut off rain feature!


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## snickerd3 (Jun 12, 2019)

have an appt monday afternoon with a landscape contractor to give the backyard a facelift.  The current concrete patio has settled towards the house and it pitted and etched and nasty.  we are thinking a new stamped concrete patio with a pergola sort of feature then a smaller flagstone type flat area behind the garage for a level surface for working on the mower etc... and replacing the mulch around the house with stone and maybe another landscape/planting in part of the old pool depression area.  nothing super fancy but the pictures of this company's work is pretty awesome.


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## Supe (Jun 12, 2019)

I'm on vacation the week after next, when Mrs. Supe and Junior head to their annual 2 week trip to Vermont.  Finally going to get around to doing a decorative gravel surround for the fire pit.  It will likely take me about 2 yard of rock to do it.  I am praying that my gate post isn't anchored so that I can pull the aluminum fence out and drive the truck back there, but I have a feeling I'm screwed.  Not looking forward to shoveling and moving nearly 3 tons of stone via wheelbarrow.


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## Road Guy (Jun 12, 2019)

Sawzall? &amp; reinstall?


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## Supe (Jun 12, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> Sawzall? &amp; reinstall?


If I can find a fence post insert that would let me rejoin the halves, 100%.


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## Road Guy (Jun 12, 2019)

our dishwasher died yesterday - went looking at replacements at lunch - when in the fuck did the average price of a dishwasher get into the $600 range?


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## Supe (Jun 12, 2019)

Around the same time they all turned into absolute pieces of shit.


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## Road Guy (Jun 12, 2019)

Maytag still good?  That's what I am leaning on going with - The GE that died was the higher end and it did last 12 years... Current situation with all three kids at home is not good


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## Supe (Jun 12, 2019)

My GE is hot garbage.  Control board basically just does whatever it feels like half the time.


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Jun 12, 2019)

Our GE washer gave out after a little under 3 years; the drive failed on us, and the replacement was as expensive as the washer. Replaced it with a (more expensive) LG. Love it.

Counting down the days until our GE dryer also goes kaput.


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## snickerd3 (Jun 12, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> our dishwasher died yesterday - went looking at replacements at lunch - when in the fuck did the average price of a dishwasher get into the $600 range?






Supe said:


> Around the same time they all turned into absolute pieces of shit.


YOu beat me to this!!!  I was going to say the same thing.  Our new one is horrible!!!   Its a whirlpool, mid level.  nothing super fancy Almost wish we spent the$ on new racks for the old one instead.  Our water is so hard the racks on our old ones rusted out.  A new dishwasher was cheaper than replacement racks.


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## mudpuppy (Jun 12, 2019)

Not to get political, but for the past year or so there's been a 20% tariff on imported washing machines, which ups the price about $100 on average.


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## MA_PE (Jun 12, 2019)

snickerd3 said:


> YOu beat me to this!!!  I was going to say the same thing.  Our new one is horrible!!!   Its a whirlpool, mid level.  nothing super fancy Almost wish we spent the$ on new racks for the old one instead.  Our water is so hard the racks on our old ones rusted out.  A new dishwasher was cheaper than replacement racks.


I can't recall how old our current mid-level Maytag is (at least 10+) but the racks are rusting a bit.  Still on the fence about trying to clean/recoat them or just buying a new dishwasher.  We paid the extra money and got a SS interior.  I think it's worth it.


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## Road Guy (Jun 12, 2019)

Maytag is still made in USA  and the Bosch stuff was a little more, not $100 more but maybe $20 bucks more

the range was pretty tight with 2-3 really cheap POS at the bottom range but most stuff in the $600-$700 range for the "typical models"

I just seem to think the last time I bought a dishwasher the "high end" was $500..


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## Road Guy (Jun 12, 2019)

I think the maytag were looking at has the SS inside, is that really worth it considering 10 years is probably all these things ever give you?


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 12, 2019)

Stainless steel is worth the extra price if you plan on being anywhere near the kitchen while it's running.  The plastic tub models are loud as hell.

I don't inspect dishwashers, but I know that they all have their issues.  FWIW, I have a Bosch that I got free from work (just had to replace the water valve).  But Bosch has a bad track record for fire recalls.  They all have one of the following four problems: 

1. Terrible water valves that either leak through the valve or the armature guide fractures.

2.  Leaking door seals.

3.  Leaking shaft seal on drain pump.

4.  Leaking sump seal.


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## Dleg (Jun 13, 2019)

What causes the fires?


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## Master slacker (Jun 13, 2019)

Dleg said:


> What causes the fires?


Usually fuel, heat, and oxygen


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## MA_PE (Jun 13, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> I think the maytag were looking at has the SS inside, is that really worth it considering 10 years is probably all these things ever give you?


Also if your water has minerals in it the plastic ones get stained and look like carp.  SS you have a shot at cleaning them if you ever want to.  We also got the "quiet" one which basically just adds some fiberglass insulation around the tub.  It does deaden the sound some but I wouldn't necessarily classify it as "quiet".


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 13, 2019)

Dleg said:


> What causes the fires?


In the older ones (2002-2006), there was a fault in the control board in the top right corner of the door that caught fire (I've seen over 500 of those fires).  In newer models (2016?), there is a proprietary power cord attachment in the bottom back right corner of the tub.  I've only seen 5 of those fires.


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## Dleg (Jun 13, 2019)

wilheldp_PE said:


> In the older ones (2002-2006), there was a fault in the control board in the top right corner of the door that caught fire (*I've seen over 500 of those fires*).  In newer models (2016?), there is a proprietary power cord attachment in the bottom back right corner of the tub.  I've only seen 5 of those fires.


Jeebus....


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 13, 2019)

Dleg said:


> Jeebus....


I've seen over 2,000 Electrolux dryer fires, and those fuckers never recalled the faulty design.


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## Dleg (Jun 13, 2019)

Good God.... what's the recourse for stuff like that?  Is there some regulatory body?  or is it just a matter of how many insurance payouts the company is willing to cover?

Were any fatalities or injuries involved??


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 13, 2019)

Dleg said:


> Good God.... what's the recourse for stuff like that?  Is there some regulatory body?  or is it just a matter of how many insurance payouts the company is willing to cover?
> 
> Were any fatalities or injuries involved??


Consumer Product Safety Commission is supposed to force the manufacturer to issue a recall when a product is unsafe, but for whatever reason, they neglected to do so with the Electrolux dryers.  UL finally updated their standards for dryers to specifically address the issue with the dryers, so Electrolux was forced to change their design in about 2013.  But by that time, they had produced millions of the faulty ones. 

I haven't been involved with any Electrolux dryer fires that caused fatalities, but I'm sure there have been injuries.  By my estimate, I have looked at the 3rd most fires caused by that specific issue.  There was a guy that did a lot of exemplar testing that proved what the actual defect was, and he has looked at over 3,000 of them.  Electrolux told insurance companies that if they hired that particular expert, they would take the claim to trial...no exceptions.  So they essentially forced him out of the market.  There was another expert that was the one that testified at a class-action lawsuit against Electrolux, which they actually settled (of course, without admitting any fault).  I just assume he has seen more of them than I have, but he may not have.

Insurance companies will always cover the losses, up to what your policy covers.  What I deal with is the insurance company suing the manufacturer to recover what they paid on the loss.  It's a specific type of lawsuit called subrogation.  It's the vast majority of the work that I do.


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## Dleg (Jun 13, 2019)

Once again, that's a cool job that you've got, with some pretty impressive impact.


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## MA_PE (Jun 14, 2019)

wilheldp_PE said:


> There was a guy that did a lot of exemplar testing that proved what the actual defect was, and he has looked at over 3,000 of them.  Electrolux told insurance companies that if they hired that particular expert, they would take the claim to trial...no exceptions.﻿  So they essentially forced him out of the market.


Will:  I'm not sure I understand this.  Are you saying that Electrolux has been settling out of court and paying the subrogation claims, but if the plaintiff hires this expert they won't settle and will go to trial?  So what, if the guy has definitive proof of a faulty design then Electrolux should lose at trial, correct?  I guess I don't understand the "threat".


----------



## jeb6294 (Jun 14, 2019)




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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 14, 2019)

MA_PE said:


> Will:  I'm not sure I understand this.  Are you saying that Electrolux has been settling out of court and paying the subrogation claims, but if the plaintiff hires this expert they won't settle and will go to trial?  So what, if the guy has definitive proof of a faulty design then Electrolux should lose at trial, correct?  I guess I don't understand the "threat".


Correct.  Taking a case to trial is exorbitantly expensive, so most insurance companies would rather settle.  Using an expert with a lot of knowledge of a particular failure mode is typically a good way to get a settlement.  But Electrolux was so pissed at that particular expert that they told insurance companies they wouldn't settle any claim when he was involved.  Electrolux is using staff engineers as their experts and staff attorneys in court, so it doesn't cost them as much to take something to trail as it does the plaintiff.


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## Road Guy (Jun 14, 2019)

completed the dishwasher install last night - i had the strangest water drain line connection I have ever seen, not sure what they builders Gerry rigged but the actual dishwasher install was a snap, the drain line took 3 trips to lowes- the included hose and the drain hose was so odd I just ended up making my own (it has to travel a long ways) but F'n annoying..

Also in other news, and I think I have griped about this before, it appears Home Depot doesn't actually stock any appliances anymore, everything is delivered - what a PIA - maybe I am in the minority but some of us just like to take it F'n home that day....

Went with the Maytag SS model USA


----------



## matt267 PE (Jun 15, 2019)

Having a new indirect fired water heater installed today under warranty. My current one started leaking after 10 years. Luckily weil-mclain is honoring their lifetime warranty.


----------



## Road Guy (Jun 24, 2019)

Since it rained most of the weekend I made a trial run at some Adirondack chairs- had most of the lumber from another project, since these are pine will defin have to give them a heavy coat of paint - plan to make the next two out of leftover snowboards and skis! maybe $30 bucks in wood and $2000 in billable hours into this    Never have all the shit tools you need..

 



Shitty pic but the front feet are "rounded" that took me some time


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## User1 (Jun 26, 2019)

I don't remember if I shared this when I did it, but made this thing out of wine barrel rings. it's f-in heavy!!! but I like it much better than the lampshade the sellers hung from the ceiling. also took me like 7 tries of connecting the wires and securing the fixture because there was no give at all and they kept coming undone. woo!


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## User1 (Jun 26, 2019)

this was my engineering mind put to work to install this with only one set of hands. super stable.


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## willsee (Jul 10, 2019)

Planning to remove a 10' span of load bearing wall - any structural engineering advice?  Can a lumber yard size the beam for me or am I needing more in depth than that.

Thinking a two ply 11" lvl beam


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## Violator (Jul 10, 2019)

A doubled up 2 X 12 will carry a lot of weight, for a residential application.


----------



## youngmotivatedengineer (Jul 10, 2019)

willsee said:


> Planning to remove a 10' span of load bearing wall - any structural engineering advice?  Can a lumber yard size the beam for me or am I needing more in depth than that.
> 
> Thinking a two ply 11" lvl beam


It is best to contact a structural engineer to size it for you. While the span is important,  you also need to figure out the load that will be on the beam. It may just be regular floor load, or you may have a point load above that you need to take into consideration.  You also need to determine if you want a flush girder or a dropped girder. If going with flush girder the existing joists will dictate how deep the beam can be. You may be able to do a 3-1/2×11-7/8 microllam, or if floor joists are 2x8, you girder me be limuted to a 7-1/2" depth.


----------



## Supe (Jul 15, 2019)

Anyone have a french door fridge they actually like?  All I see are horror stories.  My sister is on her THIRD refrigerator in less than a year.  I will not buy another Samsung electronic device of any kind.


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## Road Guy (Jul 15, 2019)

I wouldn't say I love it, but the house we bought has the higher end GE side by side and its at least 10 years old. not sure the exact model, the only thing that we don't like is the ice maker, it makes ice but the part that pushes the ice to the "little door that drops ice into my glass" has broke 2X and now we just grab ice the old fashioned way..

but those damn things are crazy expensive now, I am dreading when I actually have to go get one, but I wont be getting the one that has the see through screen, wife enabled, version that's $5G's


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## Supe (Jul 15, 2019)

Ugh, my GE dishwasher is a POS.  Lowes has a Whirlpool on sale for about $1500 that looks very similar to the one we have now, but I haven't been enamored with my WP microwave.


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## Road Guy (Jul 15, 2019)

I don't know if Maytag makes fridges, but they are my appliance manufacturer of choice -


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## kevo_55 (Jul 15, 2019)

We have a whirlpool french door fridge at my house.

I think it works ok. Shutting the door with the folding seal is kinda weird though. If the doors don't seal, the fridge will warn you too.


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## Supe (Jul 15, 2019)

kevo_55 said:


> We have a whirlpool french door fridge at my house.
> 
> I think it works ok. Shutting the door with the folding seal is kinda weird though. If the doors don't seal, the fridge will warn you too.


That's what I've read.  Something about you have to always open/close one door before the other?


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## mudpuppy (Jul 15, 2019)

We have an older (2010-ish) GE one (bottom freezer) and haven't had any issues with it.  I don't like the design of the inside of the fridge because there's a lot of wasted space, but no issues with the french doors.  And no, you can open either or both doors.  There's a folding piece of plastic on one door that retracts when you open it.

My wife had another bottom freezer with french doors and loved it.  But it was too big to fit in our house when we moved.


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## Supe (Jul 15, 2019)

mudpuppy said:


> We have an older (2010-ish) GE one (bottom freezer) and haven't had any issues with it.  I don't like the design of the inside of the fridge because there's a lot of wasted space, but no issues with the french doors.  And no, you can open either or both doors.  There's a folding piece of plastic on one door that retracts when you open it.
> 
> My wife had another bottom freezer with french doors and loved it.  But it was too big to fit in our house when we moved.


That's how my Samsung is.  Unfortunately, it's got a massive design flaw which results in recurring freezing of the evap coils, to the point where it starts making contact with the fan, and then stops cooling altogether.  They issued a band-aid fix which I already did (a little metal tab that hangs off the defroster coil to try to keep the drain line from icing up), but that too has stopped working.  So I have a $3000 hunk of shit that dispenses moldy ice/water, doesn't cool, and dumps water/ice all over the floor due to the defrost issue.


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## envirotex (Jul 15, 2019)

Supe said:


> Ugh, my GE dishwasher is a POS.  Lowes has a Whirlpool on sale for about $1500 that looks very similar to the one we have now, but I haven't been enamored with my WP microwave.


What year is your GE...?They have made some signifcant improvements...You might want to look at a newer model.


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## Supe (Jul 15, 2019)

envirotex said:


> What year is your GE...?They have made some signifcant improvements...You might want to look at a newer model.


Probably around 9 years old.


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## envirotex (Jul 15, 2019)

Supe said:


> Probably around 9 years old.


Yep.  Check the features and the ratings on the newer models...We had a 1st Gen GE Cafe and didn't love it, but when we get our appliance package for the new house, we'll probably get a new one...We really did love every other appliance in the group, though...I saved my fridge.  It's in storage.  Thinking about moving out the landlord's brand new Samsung.


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## MA_PE (Jul 15, 2019)

I need to grab a portable (in the room) ac today.  We have window units for the BRs but Mrs MA is going to be home for 2-3 eeeks following a medical procedure and we don’t have AC in the back room where the TV is.  The windows out there are all big horizontal sliders so a conventional window AC won’t work.  I’m going to grab this one because it’s in stock at HD.

anyone have any input or suggestions on something else?

thanks

https://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Electronics-8-000-BTU-5-500-BTU-DOE-Portable-Air-Conditioner-115-Volt-w-Dehumidifier-Function-and-LCD-Remote-in-White-LP0817WSR/300422892


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## Master slacker (Jul 15, 2019)

sh*t.  I've got a 12 year old floor model Frigidaire that cost $800 (side by side).  Never had an issue.  Just like cars, the more gidgets and gadgets your fridge has, the more problems and more expensive they get.


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## Road Guy (Jul 15, 2019)

MA_PE said:


> I need to grab a portable (in the room) ac today.  We have window units for the BRs but Mrs MA is going to be home for 2-3 eeeks following a medical procedure and we don’t have AC in the back room where the TV is.  The windows out there are all big horizontal sliders so a conventional window AC won’t work.  I’m going to grab this one because it’s in stock at HD.
> 
> anyone have any input or suggestions on something else?
> 
> ...


We have something similar and it works well for one large room - but if it runs for say an hour or more then the amount of cold air delivered drops substantially. (like it needs a break every hour).

  Our house AC unit is at least a 0.5 ton sized too small, I had hoped it would infuse some cold air into the whole upstairs and cool the larger upstairs some but it is pretty much a window unit that you don't have to hang out your window.


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## P-E (Jul 15, 2019)

MA_PE said:


> I need to grab a portable (in the room) ac today.  We have window units for the BRs but Mrs MA is going to be home for 2-3 eeeks following a medical procedure and we don’t have AC in the back room where the TV is.  The windows out there are all big horizontal sliders so a conventional window AC won’t work.  I’m going to grab this one because it’s in stock at HD.
> 
> anyone have any input or suggestions on something else?
> 
> ...


We have two of them.  The downside is that they are loud.   You’ll want to make sure you get the one that you don’t need to empty a condensate bucket.  Some will evaporate the condensate and send it out with the condenser exhaust air.

Some have single and some have double condenser side hoses.  The single hose type will pull air from an adjacent room which can be bad if the room is large and has no doors.


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## Supe (Jul 15, 2019)

Welp, AC board has burnt bits on it.  Whoops.


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## mudpuppy (Jul 16, 2019)

MA_PE said:


> I need to grab a portable (in the room) ac today.  We have window units for the BRs but Mrs MA is going to be home for 2-3 eeeks following a medical procedure and we don’t have AC in the back room where the TV is.  The windows out there are all big horizontal sliders so a conventional window AC won’t work.  I’m going to grab this one because it’s in stock at HD.
> 
> anyone have any input or suggestions on something else?
> 
> ...




I have an off-brand one very similar that we use to cool our upstairs bedroom.  Got it on sale at Menards for about $180 last year and have been pretty happy with it.


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## Supe (Jul 16, 2019)

Waiting to see if AC will get covered under warranty.  Replacement Carrier board/kit is $200+ in addition to labor costs looking online.  Or, a direct match used board is $29.  Wonder how hard it is to swap on my own, or if there is damage elsewhere in the system.


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## MA_PE (Jul 16, 2019)

I bought the LG and went for the larger 10000 btu unit.  $360.  It seems to work well but overnight lows are in the 60s so I didn’t use it last night.  We’re supposed to be hot/humid for the next several days so it should get a decent test.  Wife seems happy,


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## mudpuppy (Jul 17, 2019)

Supe said:


> Waiting to see if AC will get covered under warranty.  Replacement Carrier board/kit is $200+ in addition to labor costs looking online.  Or, a direct match used board is $29.  Wonder how hard it is to swap on my own, or if there is damage elsewhere in the system.




For $29 I wouldn't hesitate to try it at least.  If you can build a car you should be able to swap an HVAC control board--those things are usually pretty plug-and-play.  Just take a picture before you start unhooking anything.  And then if something else is wrong then you've only wasted $29 instead of $200+


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## Supe (Jul 18, 2019)

Damage ended up being more extensive.  Nothing covered because it was actually the furnace control board which was existing.  It was bad enough that it even trashed the transformer windings.  It's not cost effective to replace sink the necessary costs into a 20 year old furnace, so we're going to replace the whole unit.


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## P-E (Jul 18, 2019)

MA_PE said:


> Wife seems happy,


That alone is worth $360.


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## Road Guy (Jul 18, 2019)

Am how long have y’all been without AC?

We once went 4.3 days with no AC in the summer in Atlanta and it was probably the hardest 4.3 days of our lives... probably should have gotten 4.3 tattood on all our arms or something...


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## Supe (Jul 18, 2019)

Thankfully we're dual zoned, so upstairs has been out since Saturday, but the downstairs is still working.  Once you go up about 6 steps, its like a blast furnace, easily over 100 degrees up there.  Downstairs is doing its best to keep it in the low 70's.  We all slept in the living room last night.

We should be up and running tomorrow.  They're coming at 8am to start.


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## Road Guy (Jul 23, 2019)

So here is a _no update _on my sprinkler deli mina (not that anyone cares) 

This spring I replaced the sprinkler controller with one of them fancy  wifi models, the thought was that I could easily turn off zones and narrow down the leak. After bypassing the feature that turned the unit off if any rain was detected "on the internets" it actually works great I have to admit.

The previous owners liked their grass green and _moist -   _I am probably watering about half what they were watering - and what I have been doing is once a week for the last month I have ran one zone a week (very heavy) and now I have gone through all 4 zones and there isn't a drop of water at all where I had the leak the last 3 years - Is it possible that they just watered so damn much that the water drifted to the low point in the yard and it just didn't have anywhere to go?

Ive got a pic somewhere but basically the water in my backyard all drains to one point where my neighbors have a raised concrete patio that blocks any water from traversing.

We have had some heavy rains this summer and the former "pond" doesn't hold water for regular rain events.

so strange, I want to declare victory but I know once I turn all 4 of the backyard zones one again it will likely fill up again.. but heh, at least were only 3 months away from Fall Snow!


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## Road Guy (Jul 26, 2019)

here is the pic - this is from last year - the red is where the pond was -

checked my water bill and were using 30K less gallons per month?  The bill for July read 10T (which I am assuming means thousands) and July 2018 it was 40T?  maybe I dug up my yard last year for nothing?

&amp; yes I realize I am just talking to myself


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## FLBuff PE (Jul 26, 2019)

This year is also hella wetter than last year.


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## Road Guy (Jul 30, 2019)

yeah but one would think the heavy rains would also fill in the "pond"?  I'm just going to attribute it to overwatering and call it done!


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## Master slacker (Aug 12, 2019)

I finished building a roof over our deck this weekend.  I will never do that sh*t again.  At least not in the dead of summer.  I survived, but it was f'ing HOT and I'm still feeling like ass.


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## Road Guy (Aug 12, 2019)

yeah that defin sounds like a Fall project! Do you even have Fall in the bayou?


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## Supe (Aug 12, 2019)

I've deliberately stalled redoing our deck just because the heat has been intolerable.


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## Road Guy (Aug 13, 2019)

ive had my lift kit in the garage since spring when it was too cold to wrench and now its too hot to wrench, hope I manage to catch one of the 2 fall weekends before it gets cold again to get this thing on!


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## Master slacker (Aug 14, 2019)

Road Guy said:


> yeah that defin sounds like a Fall project! Do you even have Fall in the bayou?


Well, I tore the old deck down and built the new deck same time last year.  Never said I was smart.  "Fall"?  Occasionally.  Typically, though, trees lose their leaves every year when new leaves push the old ones out of the way.



Supe said:


> I've deliberately stalled redoing our deck just because the heat has been intolerable.


Sissy


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## Supe (Aug 15, 2019)

Master slacker said:


> Sissy﻿


Damn straight.

That, and it's been so humid here this summer, the mosquitoes obliterate you after about 5 seconds outside.  I don't know what it is about this year, but the humidity has been _bad.  _And that's coming from someone who spent July and August working at the sea port in Houston a while back.  Even with dual zone AC in the house, it's not even putting a dent in the moisture in the air.  I even had to go around and shave all the doors down.


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## Road Guy (Nov 11, 2019)

So in the never ending quest for storage space I am going to put some shelves above where my garage door is - Ive been looking around the _internets _and it seems like most people support them from the ceiling with 2X4's - I was thinking of using some lightweight angle iron (stuff you can buy at home depot) and then using some kind of metal straps to support the weight from the angle iron (which I would lag screw to the ceiling)?

Anyone done something similar? 

In the pic below, red would be the actual shelf (2X4 fram with plywood) - dark blue the angle iron, and light blue the straps (metal) 

You cant tell from this photo but I will be able to anchor the sides to the side of the garage as well.  Seems like a great use of wasted space


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## Supe (Nov 11, 2019)

I would just use 2x4's and thin plywood with a few vertical struts.


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## Road Guy (Nov 11, 2019)

I built some off to the side and just used particle board, I can climb on them and they are great, but I just need more! 

I guess 2x4's would be easier - I saw these two and would do something similar:


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## Supe (Nov 11, 2019)

I have those shitty wire shelves, and I would switch to a setup like that in a heartbeat if I had the motivation.


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## Road Guy (Nov 11, 2019)

This is the only pic I have on me so ignore the mess (I was taking pics of my jeep hardtop hoist)

But I made these on the side of the garage, the previous owner left those 2X12's under the porch so they were free &amp; sturdy AF! 

I plan to spend this weekend gutting some stuff in the garage but I could still use some more space, since we finished the basement I just dont have a ton of room - but these shelves were pretty easy to do, biggest PIA was getting the 4X8 sheets of plywood home.

Note this pic is about 3 years old and most of the shit in this pic is already gone..


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## Supe (Nov 11, 2019)

I have a workbench built that way and that's how I did my shed shelving too.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 11, 2019)

I did something above one garage door for a couple of the kayaks.  Being a single door, I had to put one on either side of the opener rail. I used lag screws to bolt some pieces of 2x4’s to the ceiling and then used some 1”x’s and 1/4” plywood for some gussets.  The kayaks actually ride on some pieces of conduit with pipe insulation on them.


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## LyceeFruit PE (Nov 11, 2019)

I have garage envy


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## jeb6294 (Nov 11, 2019)

On a different note, just from the pictures, any idea what this thing is and how much power is available?

I don’t think either my wife or I would be against getting a real hot tub. We got a lot more use out of the inflatable one than we thought, but it sprung a leak and there’s enough air pressure that fixing it is almost impossible.  Finding an affordable hot tub is not the issue, it’s getting the required power in place. I was in the basement the other day and started looking at this thing wondering if we already have a power source in place.  Yes it’s in the basement but there are already a couple ways out of the basement from that room.


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## wilheldp_PE (Nov 11, 2019)

That's a NEMA 5-30 outlet, so it can provide up to 30 amps at 240 VAC.  I would double check the breaker serving it, though.  If its just a 30 amp breaker, I wouldn't put more than 22 amps on it (the previous Jacuzzi used 17 amps).  You should never have a continuous load over over 80% of a breaker's rated capacity.

As for what that box is, it might just be a junction box, or it might have some other controls in it.  The sticker in the lower left says "steam bath equipment," so maybe a steam generator?


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## Road Guy (Nov 18, 2019)

So I ended up going with using some screw eyes and cables (which was a total and complete pain in the F'n Ass btw) but I persisted    These pics kind of suck but the storage generated was great, put all the lighter weight stuff that takes up space (camping, sleeping bags, chairs, etc)  around 24 feet long by 24 inches..


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## Supe (Nov 18, 2019)

I like that setup better than 2x4 struts.  If you ever want to do away with the U-bolts, the Harbor Freight hydraulic crimp tool that I use to make all my battery cables works great for crimping ferrules.


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## Road Guy (Nov 18, 2019)

That would have eliminated a thousand little holes in my fingers from the cut ends of the cable piercing through my fingers.. that and dropping the small hex nut every 5 minutes, climbing down the ladder, up again, etc..I also didn't think about needing a small shackle (or similar) on both ends and the never ending trips back to the home depot..

Once I got a system down it wasn't too bad, just time consuming, but I think If I had to do again I would have used some angle iron and some metal straps,


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## Dleg (Nov 18, 2019)

Looks cool - sounds like a pain in the ass to hang.

I've spent every weekend for the last month and a half either hanging new light fixtures, or repairing and painting the ceiling from where I removed the shitty old fixtures (tore the paint and drywall paper off when they were removed).  So tell me about going up and down ladders.  Now I see why my best remote maintenance worker retired on me when I was in Alaska, after 8 hours on a ladder to repair a garage heater (plus the dude was 72).


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## jeb6294 (Nov 19, 2019)

Did you get a permit for that?


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## User1 (Nov 19, 2019)

@Road Guy you know you can have lowes/home depot cut your 4x8 ply into 2x8 right?


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## Road Guy (Nov 19, 2019)

But I own a table saw?

And then I have to track someone down who knows how to use the machine, etc,


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## User1 (Nov 19, 2019)

but they're less of a pain to get home which is what you saidddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd


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## Road Guy (Nov 19, 2019)

gotcha - I think only women are supposed to ask to get wood cut   

When I worked at Home Depot we all hated cutting wood for people because back then Home Depot was "nice" and jerks would be like, I need this one, 27 -5/16th, this one 24 -7/8", etc.. I think now they just cut to the inch..

But I was smarter this time and brought my 16 year old to help with putting the sheets on top of the tahoe.


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## Road Guy (Feb 5, 2020)

so just thinking out loud here..

I found a propane heater for my garage that's rated for inside use on clearance at a ranching type store near the house.  I've been using one of those propane top mounted heaters and then cracking a door to keep from "dying" while using it.  I was thinking of buying a 50LB propane tank that I would keep outside and just run a hose through the side of the garage? Ive got one of those little 1/4 storage sheds by the house I could hide the tank in.

I didn't get a good look at the fittings as the heater was in the box, but I think this is meant to be permanently mounted inside the house but I am assuming I can buy or make the connections from the tank to the heater since this is a smaller version of what people in rural areas do for gas?


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## Supe (Feb 5, 2020)

The 50 gallon tanks should have the same fittings as the small ones.  If it uses the small style service valve, there are adapters/extension hoses readily available.  I just question how you're going to hold the heating element up (assuming you're talking about the heater elements that look like those big flood lamps?)


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## Road Guy (Feb 5, 2020)

So this actually looks like something you would (permanently)  install in your living room - trying to find the pic of the heater online.

I just wondered about the "running a gas hose from the garage to the outside" part was a bad idea?


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## LyceeFruit PE (Feb 5, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> So this actually looks like something you would (permanently)  install in your living room - trying to find the pic of the heater online.
> 
> I just wondered about the "running a gas hose from the garage to the outside" part was a bad idea?


why would it be?

my last apartment i had a propane heater mounted in the corner of the basement with the propane hose running across the basement ceiling since the tank was outside.


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## Supe (Feb 5, 2020)

You could always just buy the corrugated stainless line instead.  In all honesty, if you blow up the house, they'll just deny your claim since it wasn't installed to code anyways, LOL.


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## Road Guy (Feb 5, 2020)

yeah i actually regret not running a gas line to the garage from the basement before I finished the basement.  

Kind of wonder why its not the norm? I would like to think that I am not the only one living in a cold winter climate that like to work in the garage in the winter and needs some heat!

Like do I just keep using the propane top mounted heaters or try and go "_half ass_" legit?  After watching the guys cut the hole in my house for the (gas) wood stove in the living room I have actually thought about just doing the same thing in the garage - I had to disconnect and reconnect a lot of what they put in when we did the "hearth" around the stove so I dont think it takes a rocket scientist to put the chimney for a wood stove in + how cool would that be?


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## Supe (Feb 5, 2020)

If your building codes allow it, you could easily put a wood burning stove or heat exchanger in there.  Metal chimney with spark arrester on the garage exterior is easy, albeit not the prettiest thing to look at.  If the garage is well insulated, you could also consider a ductless mini split system.


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## mudpuppy (Feb 6, 2020)

We have a permanently mounted propane heater in the garage.  It hangs from the ceiling, with a chimney going straight up through the roof.  Whoever installed it was a moron because they didn't flash the chimney, and it leaked.  But I flashed it myself after I bought the house.

I'm thinking about putting a wood stove in the barn, since I have more wood than I know what to do with.  The barn is about 150 yards from the propane tank and I'm not going to run a line that far.  Not sure on what the codes require though, so thinking about just hiring someone to install to be legit.  But if it's not code I suppose I could just pull it out if I decide the sell the house.


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## Road Guy (Feb 6, 2020)

man i need a barn!

So I went back to Jax and someone bought the heater I was going to get  you snooze you lose!   

Wife not down with the wood stove in garage - I'm going to hit up some other places this weekend for the large propane heater.  The previous owner had the garage insulated and sheetrocked so it will hold some heat - but its a 12 ft ceiling and it takes a while to heat up.


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## Master slacker (Feb 6, 2020)

mudpuppy said:


> I'm thinking about putting a wood stove in the barn, since I have more wood than I know what to do with.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 25, 2020)

So the bandaid on our sewer lateral finally gave out.  The place that TV-ed the line came up with an estimate of $5,500 but they're talking about replacing 24-ft.  That seems like a lot of overkill based on what I'm looking at.  From my math our lateral is at ~6% slope (2'-4" and 2'-10" depths are what their equipment showed, the approximate lengths are what I measured).  My thought is to run the existing lateral out to the edge of the patio staying at 6% and put in a cleanout, new pipe at a straight shot over to another cleanout where the pipe's at 2'-10" deep.  I'm coming up with a slope of 3% which is well above the 2% minimum.  For safety sake, I'm also assuming the pipe is offset by a full 4" under the patio although last time I opened the cleanout in the basement, it was probably half that.

Before I call a couple more places for estimates, am I missing/overlooking anything?


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## Road Guy (Feb 25, 2020)

That does seem high for what is basically some pipe!


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## MA_PE (Feb 25, 2020)

Don’t tell me K/I means cast-iron &lt;smh&gt;.
tunneling under the porch will add cost and if they’ve got to bring in equipment it’s probably $2500 to mobilize.  I’ve interested in your other estimates.  I’m looking at doing something similar near Boston.   A few years ago they threw out a number of ~$4k


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## jeb6294 (Feb 26, 2020)

A while ago we had someone come out to clear the line.  They gave us an estimate of $4,200 at the time to put a cleanout in outside the house, but they were also talking about cutting the line inside the basement and boring a new hole through the wall.  I called them but had to leave a message and haven't heard back yet.  They're a small company and, coincidentally, the dad and son both live right across the street from our neighborhood.  When they were out last time, they just drove their mini-excavator over.

Someone from the insurance is supposed to be by Friday afternoon, although I'm not sure why since they already said it wouldn't be covered.  Supposed to be someone else coming Friday afternoon to give us an estimate too.


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## Road Guy (Feb 26, 2020)

I was talking to my dad, who had his line redone a few years back, ( from the house to the street) I dont know the distance but he is in Tampa and said it was around $5 grand (if that helps).  He also had to have a medium sized tree removed and he didnt recall if that was part of it or not. (old people)

I have been wanting to make a propane fire pit on the backdeck for a while, I was going to make the base out of small landscape blocks, fill it with "lava" rocks and add one of these things to it:  https://www.bbqguys.com/lakeview-outdoor-designs/30-inch-linear-drop-in-pan-w-24-inch-propane-t-burner-connection-kit?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=paid&amp;utm_campaign=1757301804&amp;utm_content=341652417329&amp;utm_term=3054192&amp;species=shopping-ad-smart&amp;campaignid=1757301804&amp;adgroupid=67470556263&amp;creative=341652417329&amp;targetid=pla-815888636606&amp;network=u&amp;device=c&amp;adtype=&amp;productchannel=online&amp;productid=3054192&amp;productpartitionid=815888636606&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2a-a3__v5wIVxICfCh2-Og5uEAYYAiABEgKlA_D_BwE

Seems rather straightforward?


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## jeb6294 (Feb 27, 2020)

Assuming all my math is right, it should only be 10-12 feet of new pipe and two cleanouts and nothing too complicated...I don't know that I would call it 'tunneling' when the lateral is only 2 feet deep and ~2-3 feet from the edge of the patio.

I took another look at the $5,500 estimate I got previously and one other thing I didn't see was any mention of the sidewalk.  If they were planning on replacing 24 feet of pipe they were definitely going beyond the sidewalk so I wonder if that included costs for ripping out and replacing a section of the sidewalk?

Apparently one of the places I called is on the ball though because when I got home yesterday there were a bunch of flags marking the gas and electric lines.


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## Road Guy (Feb 28, 2020)

Wonder how bad it would be to just do yourself? Other than the "shit work" aspect of it.  You can probably rent a mini mini ex from Home Deport for a few hundred bucks?


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## jeb6294 (Feb 28, 2020)

I actually posted that same question here before when we got the bandaid put on.  We'll see what the guys coming this afternoon have to say...one of them is the guy who did the bandaid and he was pretty reasonable.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 3, 2020)

So, one guy came in at $3,900 and the other $3,300.  The first guy wants to take out a 3-ft section of the patio and replace the pipe from the break.  The cheaper guy wants to cut out around the pipe, pull it out and go with new PVC from the cleanout in the basement.  That would require taking out some of the walls in the finished basement, but those should probably be taken out anyway to clean up whatever creeping crud is now growing back there.  Still waiting to hear from the insurance guy.  Not holding my breath that they'll pay for the fix, but if they'll pay for the aftermath then maybe we can get the wall demo/replacement and new flooring aid for.


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## Road Guy (Mar 3, 2020)

This was a good reminder for me to make sure I had  added on my policy to take care of the sewer line from the house to the City Connection (which I just verified)  cause ours is pretty deep- 8 ft below ground.

Hope you get some insurance relief!


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## jeb6294 (Mar 3, 2020)

We are not.

Insurance guy just called.  Even thought the water in the basement is from the broken pipe, once it leaves the perimeter of the house, they call it 'groundwater'.

Now I just have to decide which way I want to go.  Like going with new PVC from the basement, but not sure I like cutting/patching a hole in the foundation wall.  Not crazy about removing/replacing a chunk of the patio because 1)it'll never match, and 2)connecting PVC to the spot where it came apart still means there will be a potential breaking point under the concrete patio again.


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## Supe (Mar 3, 2020)

I would go with the new PVC pipe.  Cutting a hole in the foundation wall is easy.  Core drill, slide in your PVC, expanding foam in the hole, sealant around the outside.  If its close to the ground, I've seen them flashed like roof vents.  Like you said, sectioning out a portion of the patio will probably look like shit.


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## Road Guy (Mar 6, 2020)

I think our 12 year old gas stove died. the stove top still works, trying to decide if I want to trouble shoot all weekend and change parts or just "uppgrade"...


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## Master slacker (Mar 6, 2020)

The stove top works but the oven does not?  I guarantee (not valid in lower 48 states) that it's the bi-metal gas valve.  I've replaced one (easy) and the oven lasted for years.  Finally replaced the oven entirely since it wouldn't get up to or hold temperature and I wanted something that wasn't made in 1990.


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## Road Guy (Mar 6, 2020)

that is what my internet research suggested also but the wife is all looking at new stoves like this:


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## LyceeFruit PE (Mar 6, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> that is what my internet research suggested also but the wife is all looking at new stoves like this:


^that was me when our oven died LOL 

shame it wasn't possible to replace with a gas version lol


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## leggo PE (Mar 6, 2020)

New stoves are crap, from what I can tell. My apartment has an original 1950s Wedgewood gas stove and it is amazing!


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## wilheldp_PE (Mar 6, 2020)

Master slacker said:


> The stove top works but the oven does not?  I guarantee (not valid in lower 48 states) that it's the bi-metal gas valve.  I've replaced one (easy) and the oven lasted for years.  Finally replaced the oven entirely since it wouldn't get up to or hold temperature and I wanted something that wasn't made in 1990.


I would also check the hot-surface igniters on the oven burners.

@leggo PE is correct...new appliances suck.  I don't see any old ranges with infinite switches (electrical) or gas valve controls fail.  I see all sorts of digitally-controlled ranges catching fire because the controls were designed by electrical engineers that think 120 VAC is high voltage.


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## Road Guy (Mar 6, 2020)

The broiler still works! I may do some poking around this weekend -


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## Master slacker (Mar 9, 2020)

Anyone ever screen in an open porch?  I'm diving in and trying to keep it simple since I over-thought the deck and roof builds (but dammit they're sturdy!).  I have four sections roughly 8' wide and 7' tall.  My original thought was to use 2x2's to split them into 4' wide sections and then add 2x2 "handrails" at about 4' height.  Up to the "handrail" would be pet screen, and from the "handrail" to the header would be insect screen.  This framing is "ONLY" to put up screen and hold a screen door to the yard.

The deck is 16'x10'.  Do y'all think 2x2 is good enough to use or should 2x4 be used?  IMO, 2x4's take up more visible area and I'd like to see more yard than board from the chair.  Thoughts?


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## Road Guy (Mar 9, 2020)

Well the good news is that I finally signed up for the lowes veteran discount and got 10% off the new stove / oven. The bad news is that I "saved" $200 on the stove / oven this past weekend 

Apparently now its cool to have a stove that allows you to see your backsplash and have a double oven instead of just one door?

:violin: :whipping: :suicide1:


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## Supe (Mar 9, 2020)

Master slacker said:


> Anyone ever screen in an open porch?  I'm diving in and trying to keep it simple since I over-thought the deck and roof builds (but dammit they're sturdy!).  I have four sections roughly 8' wide and 7' tall.  My original thought was to use 2x2's to split them into 4' wide sections and then add 2x2 "handrails" at about 4' height.  Up to the "handrail" would be pet screen, and from the "handrail" to the header would be insect screen.  This framing is "ONLY" to put up screen and hold a screen door to the yard.
> 
> The deck is 16'x10'.  Do y'all think 2x2 is good enough to use or should 2x4 be used?  IMO, 2x4's take up more visible area and I'd like to see more yard than board from the chair.  Thoughts?


I'd go as small as you can get away with.  Serves no purpose other than to hold up screen, you could even just use trim boards.  Have you considered just screening right across the existing frame work and then just hiding the stapled areas with trim pieces?  That's normally how I see it done.  For the handrails, I would use a 2x4 but turn them on edge to match the existing framework.  As humid as it is where you are, I'd worry about a 2x2 mounted horizontally having a propensity to sag?


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## jeb6294 (Mar 23, 2020)

So update on the house situation.  Just to recap, the three prices we got were $5,200, $3,900 and $3,300 to get the sewer lateral fixed.  $3,300 guy called last week to tell me they weren't going to be doing anything because of the corona nonsense.  Seriously dude? You work in shit for a living.  I know Ohio is telling everyone to shelter in place, but I'm pretty sure that fixing the lake of sewage in our front yard could be considered "essential".

So today a different guy comes over, a friend of a lady my wife works with.  Guess he's laid off with everything shut down.  He came over and measured some stuff and scratched his head and does that deep breath like he's fixing to give me bad news and tells me, "you're probably looking at $800". Uhhh, how soon can you start?


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## Road Guy (Mar 23, 2020)

lol - (i guess not really funny) but hope you can get it taken care of!

I want the economy to come back quick- but I also sort of want to call the many people who told me they wouldn't waste their time on my basement project since it was under $50K-


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## P-E (Mar 23, 2020)

I called a roofing contractor to treat the north roof for moss.  I hope I haven't waited too long.  They were more than happy to set up a time tomorrow to stop by.


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## Supe (Mar 24, 2020)

P-E said:


> I called a roofing contractor to treat the north roof for moss.  I hope I haven't waited too long.  They were more than happy to set up a time tomorrow to stop by.


Just chuck a package of Bonnie seedlings up there and call it a living roof.


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## Master slacker (Mar 24, 2020)

Screening in a porch that was not designed / built for that intention or, for that matter, not designed / built originally to have a roof over it, is a total pain in the ass.

Original - design / build deck.  Success!... "let's add a roof!"

rev 1 - design / build roofing and support system to work with deck as it was designed / built.  Not great, but it works... "let's screen it in!"

rev 2 - design / build screen attachment points that don't look like total sh*t on deck that had no intention for screen.  I've seen worse... "we have to extend the deck!"

rev 3 - :suicide1:


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## jeb6294 (Mar 24, 2020)

Ran up to the bank to get some cash at the ATM to pay the plumber and came home to this welcome sight.  I just wish I would have known he was going to be able to get here this early...I would have worn something besides my pajamas.  I had to park halfway up the street and walk back to the house in PJ pants.


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## Supe (Mar 24, 2020)

In these times, pajamas and a gas mask are perfectly acceptable attire.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 24, 2020)

I actually laughed out loud at guy at Lowes the other day.  He was walking around wearing a dust mask. Might as well have been wearing a little incubator on his face.


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## Supe (Mar 24, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> I actually laughed out loud at guy at Lowes the other day.  He was walking around wearing a dust mask. Might as well have been wearing a little incubator on his face.


That probably exceeds the level of protection most hospital staff have right about now, so if it prevents a "say it don't spray it" droplet from going in or out, more power to him!


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## jeb6294 (Mar 24, 2020)

'Bout two hours later and he's backfilling the hole and we are not living like cavemen anymore.  I'm really glad I had him do it because he actually found a new break in the line about 8-inches outside the foundation.  I would have found the original break and called it fixed without even knowing it.

Even if he sticks with his original $800, I'm giving him $900.


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## Road Guy (Mar 24, 2020)

hell give him a grand!


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## jeb6294 (Mar 24, 2020)

Ended up charging us $1,000 since they had to go all the wall to the foundation and had to roll around in the mess under the patio.  I was still just fine with that, gave him the thou plus whatever I cash I had in my wallet and told him I was sorry the ATM limit was $500 a day or I still would have given him the extra $100.

I also passed his number on to a neighbor who needs to get some work done that wouldn't be nearly as messy/complicated as ours.  Maybe I'll see him up there.


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## Road Guy (Apr 28, 2020)

seems like I always ponder doing this this time of year but looking at whole house fans - Seems like a no brainer here in Denver since we dont really run the AC until July but there seem to be two options, one $300 and one $1200 - anyone got any intel on the more expensive one?  maybe it puts a smaller hole in your ceiling?

$300 one:







$1200 one:


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## LyceeFruit PE (Apr 28, 2020)

I've only ever seen the 300$ one... my mother's house has one like it. it's noisy.


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## snickerd3 (Apr 28, 2020)

LyceeFruit PE said:


> I've only ever seen the 300$ one... my mother's house has one like it. it's noisy.


this.  There was one in our house when we moved in.  We took it out since it draws air from the outside in to create the breeze and living next to farmland that is bad news for allergies.

Very noisy.


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## Road Guy (Apr 28, 2020)

I guess that is the main difference is the noise - the more expensive one is 45 decibels, where the other one is 80 or so.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 28, 2020)

Anyone used Flexseal yet? The stuff that brushes on.

Now that the sewer lateral has been fixed, it also seems to have cured the water problem in the basement. We’ve gotten a decent bit of rain, but so far it’s stayed dry. I had already torn out some of the drywall and sprayed everything down with bleach and found the two cracks that were the culprit. Even though the problem seems to be resolved, if it works halfway decent, we were thinking about painting over both cracks with Flexseal before the wall goes back up as a little insurance.


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## Supe (Apr 29, 2020)

As long as it's got some tooth to bite into it, it works pretty well.  I have been using a small can to patch a hole in the washing machine to avoid having to change the gasket, which will be an all day affair.  It has only failed once after a couple months of usage, and that's because the whole patch lifted in one piece since it was applied to a pretty dirty, soapy, smooth surface.  It's lasted longer the second go-around after I cleaned better and roughed it up a bit with some sandpaper.  It's definitely waterproof, though I don't know how it would really hold up long-term (does it stay flexible, etc.).  As a peace of mind backup, I wouldn't hesitate to use it though.


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## Bot-Man (Apr 29, 2020)

Has anyone done a DIY resurfacing of hardwood floors? If so, any tips on best practices? I just closed on a 170 year old house with oak floors throughout. Half of which were covered by carpet. 

I figured since I have some time on my hands I’d give it a shot but I don’t want to ruin anything.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 29, 2020)

I’ve been in the house for close to 10 years now, and as far as I can tell, the basement has been dry until the issue with the lateral. I’m 98% sure it’ll be fine barring another plumbing problem,  but I know the wife would feel better with a little extra insurance. Hopefully it sticks well to a poured concrete wall.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 29, 2020)

Bot-Man said:


> Has anyone done a DIY resurfacing of hardwood floors? If so, any tips on best practices? I just closed on a 170 year old house with oak floors throughout. Half of which were covered by carpet.
> 
> I figured since I have some time on my hands I’d give it a shot but I don’t want to ruin anything.


Wife has been looking into redoing some of ours. I think she’s found that it isn’t complicated, it’s just messy and time consuming.I know you can rent the floor sanders from HD/tool rental places.

I’m sure realtors everywhere would call me a horrible person, but after living in houses with wal-to-wall hardwood floors, I hate them. If it were up to me, I would keep some of it and put in carpet in our current house


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## Master slacker (Apr 29, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> seems like I always ponder doing this this time of year but looking at whole house fans


I guess our house was built before A/C was affordable or popular, but we have the original whole-house fan still in the attic (out of service).  About 3' diameter with 1/2 hp motor.  That thing must have been loud AF.  I wish we still had one, loud or not, because it could be used a lot more than the A/C for half the year.


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## Master slacker (Apr 29, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> ... but after living in houses with wal-to-wall hardwood floors, I hate them. If it were up to me, I would keep some of it and put in carpet in our current house


I love hardwood floors.  Doesn't absorb the smells that get into carpet and carpet pads, don't stain, and easy to clean.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 29, 2020)

Easy to clean, yes, but it seems like they need to be cleaned non-stop. Maybe it’s just the fact that we’ve got too many critters, but vacuuming hair is a full time occupation. I hate having to clean dirt/grit off the bottom of my feet before getting in bed every night.


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## LyceeFruit PE (Apr 29, 2020)

We have hardwood. I'm not completely against it - easier to clean than carpet while we dealt with giardia &amp; hookworms in our dog. But I agree about the grit on feet.

Also there's no insulation between the garbage/basement so the floors are cold AF and my feet freeze.

we have a roomba run 6 days a week but it definitely doesn't get everything.


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## MA_PE (Apr 29, 2020)

I just recently bought some flex-seal tape for managing a small plumbing leak.  The tape is sticky as all get out but not on wet surfaces.  It also did not like being on the negative pressure side of the pipe leak.  Tried wrapping the active “pinhole” leak and it didn’t hold.  Shut off the water, cleaned and dried the copper pipe, and wrapped with the tape.  Turned on the water and it held for about 5 minutes before it leaked out the edge of the tape.  Of course line pressure of 40-60psi is much grater that a couple of ft of head on a basement wall.  I highly doubt you get long term adhesion on a poured concrete wall.  The wall will definitely need to be dry and free of any laitance to promote adhesion.  I suppose adding the flex seal couldn’t hurt but I don’t think it’s going to really add anything.  Bottom line is that negative side waterproofing pretty much never works in the long term.


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## MA_PE (Apr 29, 2020)

It my understanding that refinishing hardwood floors with a power disk sanders requires skills like finished carpentry.  It’s easy to end up with uneven surfaces which then translate to uneven looking amateurish finished results.  If one has the luxury of an empty house fit the entire area that needs to be refinished, it’s most cost effective to hire a professional to go in, sand and apply a couple of coats of lacquer /stain and be done with it.


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## Supe (Apr 29, 2020)

MA_PE said:


> It my understanding that refinishing hardwood floors with a power disk sanders requires skills like finished carpentry.  It’s easy to end up with uneven surfaces which then translate to uneven looking amateurish finished results.  If one has the luxury of an empty house fit the entire area that needs to be refinished, it’s most cost effective to hire a professional to go in, sand and apply a couple of coats of lacquer /stain and be done with it.


X2.  Floor sanders tend to be very aggressive, and its easy to ruin the floors if they have high spots and you're not accustomed to doing them.


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## Road Guy (Apr 29, 2020)

(as a novice) I did my old house in Atlanta, used the heavy as shit floor sander you can rent from home depot - and just stay with the grain and it comes off pretty easily - (Oak Floors) i I was doing the rooms in the house that didnt have hardwood with hardwood and then I sanded all the previously stained wood floors so they would match - If you start / practice in a back bedroom or something out of the way its pretty easy to get the hang of it (having some popeye forearms helps)

For us, with little kids at the time, I liked doing it myself (both install, stripping, and staining) because you can do one room at a time and work your way around the house.  And so so cheap to do yourself - the polyurethane is a little tricky, but again just practice on back room somewhere (but you can always sand that off with a hand sander if you do too much)

We had hardwoods all downstairs and in the hallway, but carpet in the bedrooms - current house is all hardwood downstairs and carpet the rest (need to do stairs and upstaris hallway) but I agree I like carpet in bedrooms..


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## Bot-Man (Apr 29, 2020)

Thanks all for the input. I know it will be a pain but this is the only time the house will be completely empty and i have a hard time spending 5k or more on something I can do myself for a few hundred. Then again I hare even more paying someone to fix what I screwed up.


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## Road Guy (Apr 29, 2020)

its really pretty straightforward &amp; the best advice I got was to practice on that back room or something that is not right in your entry way.

&amp; if you have to fill any major cracks in the wood with the wood filler compound to do that before you sand, because that part always shows up a slightly different color if you dont.

Normally the folks at Home Depot rental store (or similar) should be able to help you with what you are trying to do (tell you which sanding pads and such to use) Seems like I went through a lot of them.  The sander itself feels like it weight a metric ton, so if you have a trailer or something low to the ground it helps to get that think up and down as easy as you can. (or a friend) 

(for the polyurethane) I use those lambs skin applicators (rectangular) that go on the end of a mop "stick" and dump the poly in  a painting pan- there is a trick to it but if you put on less poly the better off you are and defin sand lighlty between coats of poly (you can use a small hand orbital sander for that) - and on those lambskin applicators I always forget to do it,  but its a good idea to soak them in water the day before and let them dry to clean off lose hairs, my wife still likes to point out where a few hairs from the applicator got stuck in the floor..


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## jeb6294 (Apr 29, 2020)

MA_PE said:


> I just recently bought some flex-seal tape for managing a small plumbing leak.  The tape is sticky as all get out but not on wet surfaces.  It also did not like being on the negative pressure side of the pipe leak.  Tried wrapping the active “pinhole” leak and it didn’t hold.  Shut off the water, cleaned and dried the copper pipe, and wrapped with the tape.  Turned on the water and it held for about 5 minutes before it leaked out the edge of the tape.  Of course line pressure of 40-60psi is much grater that a couple of ft of head on a basement wall.  I highly doubt you get long term adhesion on a poured concrete wall.  The wall will definitely need to be dry and free of any laitance to promote adhesion.  I suppose adding the flex seal couldn’t hurt but I don’t think it’s going to really add anything.  Bottom line is that negative side waterproofing pretty much never works in the long term.


My old house had some cracks in the basement that were letting water in. I had someone come in and do epoxy injection. I think that was about as good as it’s going to get short of digging up the foundation and patching it on the outside.

We aren’t rushing to replace the drywall so I’ll continue to keep an eye on it. If it starts leaking then I’d see about getting the epoxy injection, but I’m hopeful that even that is not necessary.


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## MA_PE (May 1, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> My old house had some cracks in the basement that were letting water in. I had someone come in and do epoxy injection. I think that was about as good as it’s going to get short of digging up the foundation and patching it on the outside.
> 
> We aren’t rushing to replace the drywall so I’ll continue to keep an eye on it. If it starts leaking then I’d see about getting the epoxy injection, but I’m hopeful that even that is not necessary.


Yup.  Injection is the best way to seal cracks from the inside.


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## jeb6294 (May 17, 2020)

Okay, I don’t know what the hell is going on. Jack says his ceiling fan isn’t working...fan was going and at some point he noticed it had stopped. No light, no fan. Weird thing is that, when I checked the rest, none of the ceiling fans Upstairs work now.

First thing I did was check the breakers and they were all fine. Only one GFCI in the house and it was fine. Weird that it was ceiling fixtures in 3 different bedrooms.


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## jeb6294 (May 17, 2020)

Further weirdness, Jack yells down and say the fan was back on for a few seconds. Went upstairs and sure enough, the ceiling fans were all spinning down. Also found a couple outlets that were out too.

Went to the basement and started flipping breakers and had the boys tell me what stuff went out (except for the big appliance breakers). There was one breaker that didn’t seem to do anything, but the one right below it killed the closet light in Jacks room so it makes me think they’re on breaker #12.

Breaker seems to fine and tested it and it showed 120V. Tried googling for some ideas and a few places talked about checking outlets for loose connections, i.e. power is coming in but not getting out and kills everything downstream.


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (May 17, 2020)

Yeah, it definitely sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere. I would start by looking at all the wire nuts in the circuit and making sure none of them are loose.

Hopefully it’s not a punctured wire...


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## blybrook PE (May 18, 2020)

Depending on how the plugs (recepticals) were wired, you could have a bad receptical. I've seen several that were stab wired lose connection or have bad assembly. Some just go bad. 

If the circuit isn't popping out the gfci isn't tripped, there's a lose /bad connection. I doubt it's a wire nut unless it's a recent repair; they don't tend to go bad. 

Fastest way to check is to use a plug in style wiring tester. Similar to the following:




If it blinks or doesn't show connection, mark it with tape and move to the next receptical upstream (closer to circuit panel). The first one that has power is the first to check, then move back downstream checking each one individually. 

That's how I've diagnosed electrical circuits in the past. Beats ripping out more components than necessary.


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## wilheldp_PE (May 18, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> Further weirdness, Jack yells down and say the fan was back on for a few seconds. Went upstairs and sure enough, the ceiling fans were all spinning down. Also found a couple outlets that were out too.
> 
> Went to the basement and started flipping breakers and had the boys tell me what stuff went out (except for the big appliance breakers). There was one breaker that didn’t seem to do anything, but the one right below it killed the closet light in Jacks room so it makes me think they’re on breaker #12.
> 
> Breaker seems to fine and tested it and it showed 120V. Tried googling for some ideas and a few places talked about checking outlets for loose connections, i.e. power is coming in but not getting out and kills everything downstream.


Sounds like a floating neutral.  Do you have a multimeter that you could use to test the voltage across one of the non-working receptacles?  When the neutral is not properly tied to ground, the voltage reference can fluctuate, and you can get lower than normal voltages.  This could allow the lights to work, since they are low load and can normally light up at lower voltages.  But once you turn the fan motors on, it could cause the voltage to sag low enough that nothing works.


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## jeb6294 (May 18, 2020)

I've got my crappy meter that came free from Harbor Freight...but hey, it works. I opened the panel and tested the breaker and it was showing a steady 120V, but I did not check any of the outlets.


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## Road Guy (May 18, 2020)

Both my outdoor outlets are not working, I need to find my meter, but I cant find which breaker they are on on the circuit panel (none are tripped)- I am wondering if there is a GFI somewhere they are tied to that is tripped?


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## blybrook PE (May 18, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> Both my outdoor outlets are not working, I need to find my meter, but I cant find which breaker they are on on the circuit panel (none are tripped)- I am wondering if there is a GFI somewhere they are tied to that is tripped?


Most likely tied to a tripped GFI in the house. Time to start searching rooms to find the outlet. 

I've also seen exterior outlets run thru a switch in a utility closet. This was before GFI's were really popular and the owner wanted to control the lights from inside.


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## mudpuppy (May 18, 2020)

blybrook PE said:


> Most likely tied to a tripped GFI in the house. Time to start searching rooms to find the outlet.




This.  Mine is in an outlet in the ceiling of my garage.  I _never_ would have found it if I hadn't tripped it with my outlet tester (similar to the one pictured above) and heard it trip from the laundry room.


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## Road Guy (May 18, 2020)

Whats weird is that the outside house lights work, - I thought they were on the same link, but I could be wrong.

Previous owners also had a shit ton of low voltage lighting around the house, I noticed that none of it is working, I cant beleive all the bulbs went out at the same time, I am thinking maybe they are on the same circuit? The wiring for them is also a complete mess, not sure how my "inspector" missed that when we bought the house, its way up under the porch and looks like something clark griswold would do - I am just going to try and track that back and disconnect it.

I really just want to rip all that shit out, because those replacement bulbs are crazy expensive - I think I am just going to buy some solar powered ones and put in a a few places around the house, previous owners had this place lit up like the white house


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## mudpuppy (May 18, 2020)

GFCIs are to protect people from being electrocuted, so they may not be required for outdoor lighting since you're not normally touching them (I'm not an NEC expert by any means though).  So there's a good chance your outdoor area lighting is on a separate circuit.

Where's the transformer for your low voltage lighting?  It might just be plugged into an outdoor outlet.  But if it's hard-wired, there's a good chance it's on the same circuit as the outlets.  It's possible the transformer or low-voltage wiring shorted and that tripped your outdoor outlet GFCI.  I don't think there's much in the way of codes for low-voltage lighting wiring so there might not have been anything for your inspector to point out code-wise.


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## Road Guy (May 18, 2020)

I ran into spiders and then got out from under the deck (low deck)! So I couldnt see where it was powered from

I just figured they would point it out, since it wasnt even enclosed - it was just a bundle of wires tacked up under the deck - not even in any kind of box - Ill try and grab a pic if I get back under there


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## blybrook PE (May 18, 2020)

Your kids are home right now, send one of them under there to get the photos and trace the wires!


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## jeb6294 (May 18, 2020)

House is a 2-story built in the mid-70’s. Would it be safe to assume that the wiring would have been brought up from the panel in the basement to one of the outlets first and then from there to the rest of the outlets/ceiling fixtures?

Although, the smaller bedroom/office doesn’t have a ceiling fixture and the switch operates one outlet so I wonder if the rest of the rooms used to be that way and the idiot PO added the ceiling fixtures. You know, the guy who cut the ends off an extension cord for the wiring to the ceiling fan in Jacks room rather than make the 10 minute drive to Home Depot.


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## blybrook PE (May 18, 2020)

Mid 70's construction is less likely to have a stab wired outlet, unless the PO put them in. It is a safe assumption that the wiring goes from the panel to the first device, then branches off, however, there could be any number of junction boxes hidden in the walls. It is also possible that there used to be a switch controlling the outlets, or portion of the outlets (such as the top or bottom half only) and the switch removal wasn't re-wired correctly (or the outlet for that matter). 70's construction could have the lights on separate circuits from the outlets, but that's not guaranteed.

Side note, the first round of stab wired outlets (early to mid 90's) held the wires in place with metal springs, these failed constantly and caused a few fires. The current version has internal metal plates that are secured by tightening the side screws.

I've seen all sorts of scary home wiring configurations (I was a residential electrical apprentice in the 90's through middle / high school).


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## jeb6294 (May 18, 2020)

I’ve opened the 3 outlets that I know about and they’re all on the side screws. Multimeter says none of them are getting any power. This was all just a quick check during a lunch break though. Unfortunately, I’m on a webex meeting all day today.


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## jeb6294 (May 18, 2020)

So right or wrong, I MacGyvered a couple old extension cords together and ran it from one good outlet in the office to the outlet that was out. Ceiling fans all started working again. For $0.39 apiece, I might just start replacing the upstairs receptacles.


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## blybrook PE (May 18, 2020)

It's worth it to upgrade the outlets regardless. Now you will have to figure out WHERE the power is getting disconnected at. Just be careful with the extension cord fix, you've potentially re-energized the dead circuit and could have re-energized a fault / short that initially caused something to go kaput. If there is a short, it could be a fire waiting to happen.

I would take the wires off of the re-energized outlet and only connect those needed for the fans to prevent issues elsewhere.


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## jeb6294 (May 18, 2020)

Extension cord got unplugged. It worked for a while but then two breakers started tripping.


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## jeb6294 (May 19, 2020)

WT actual F?!?! Okay, so I unplugged the franken-cord yesterday afternoon because it was making two other breakers trip. Head upstairs to go to bed and don't even bother trying to turn the light on, but then notice a bit of a breeze...THE FAN IS STILL RUNNING. Do some checking and now all the ceiling fans/lights are working. I did not do any checking on the outlets yets. Got work stuff today, but later I'm going to trip a couple breakers and verify which circuit the fans/outlets are on and start replacing receptacles.


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## kevo_55 (May 19, 2020)

Whoa!

I'd call an electrician. Fixing something like this is way over my head.


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## wilheldp_PE (May 19, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> WT actual F?!?! Okay, so I unplugged the franken-cord yesterday afternoon because it was making two other breakers trip. Head upstairs to go to bed and don't even bother trying to turn the light on, but then notice a bit of a breeze...THE FAN IS STILL RUNNING. Do some checking and now all the ceiling fans/lights are working. I did not do any checking on the outlets yets. Got work stuff today, but later I'm going to trip a couple breakers and verify which circuit the fans/outlets are on and start replacing receptacles.


One extension cord plugged into one outlet should not cause two different circuit breakers to trip...no matter how much current it's drawing.  It sounds like you might have some double-wired circuits (i.e., circuits fed from 2 breakers).


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## Road Guy (May 19, 2020)

do you have rooms with an outlet tied into a switch?


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## mudpuppy (May 19, 2020)

wilheldp_PE said:


> One extension cord plugged into one outlet should not cause two different circuit breakers to trip...no matter how much current it's drawing.  It sounds like you might have some double-wired circuits (i.e., circuits fed from 2 breakers).




I'm thinking maybe he has some sort of loose connection somewhere, and perhaps his extension cord energized the "dead" side of this loose connection from a different leg than the "live" side, resulting in 240 V over the loose connection--just enough to cause it to arc across and trip the breaker.

If the arc caused the loose connection to weld itself back together, that could explain why the fan is running even after the cord is unplugged.

@jeb6294 do you know if the breakers that tripped were on the same leg or opposite legs?


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## blybrook PE (May 19, 2020)

It may also be possible that he had (has) a bad breaker and backfeeding it reset the internal configuration temporarily. It may be worth swapping the two breakers that tripped as well. Or pull them both out and see if the fans are still running, there's some frankenwire going on.


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## jeb6294 (May 19, 2020)

I believe the bedrooms upstairs had light switches that went to outlets rather than ceiling fixtures. The Frankenstein-cord was pugged in to one of those so I could get juice to the outlet with no power by flipping the switch rather than plugging it in.

The two breakers that tripped are next to each other and were the two directly below the one I’m guessing does the ceiling fans. Those breakers took out most of the remaining outlets on that side of the house.

I’ve been assuming the ceiling fans and outlets with no power are on their own breaker...while flipping breakers the other night, there was one that didn’t seem to shut anything else off...but I want to flip it and see if the, now working, ceiling fans go off. That I can verify what breaker they’re on. My plan at this point is to verify what breaker the ceiling fans are on, shut that breaker off and start replacing any receptacle in the house with no power going to it. Yeah, I’d be replacing outlets that don’t need it, but they’re only $0.40 apiece.


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## LyceeFruit PE (May 26, 2020)

So our dog escaped our yard by going under the fence (we're assuming not at the gate). So boyfriend got stuff from Petco to fill the holes in at the bottom of our chain link fence [https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/dig-defence-25-pack-animal-barrier]

But there are sections of our fence that we can't use this on due to rocks. He used rebar in one small area next to the house [fence panel is maybe 2ft long]. We don't have enough rebar to fix the other area [plus that area is visible to our neighbors who have a small child]. So he's thinking metal tent stakes. Any one got some that they can recommend? I'm in charge of this since I'm "the camper" [except I hammock and have UL tent stakes for my rain fly]


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## Road Guy (May 26, 2020)

^- if you have a ranching type store near you (murdocks, tractor supply) they sell long metal tent stakes for field fences I beleive?

I spent some time revisiting my low spot / drainage issue that I thought ( a few years ago) was due to a broken sprinkler line, but have since learned its just a low spot that doesnt drain out of the yard -  Its not near as wet since I am not over watering it but its still too damp for anything to grow here ( this is a bad spot on the fence that I really want a tree to help not see my neighbors)

3 summers ago it looked like this- 




Strangely enough this was just due to over watering the back yard (after exhausting replacement of all sprinkler lines)

I took some post hole diggers on Saturday and found some ground water down around 2 feet in this area. Went out 25 and 50 ft from the main problem and no ground water, so I think its just not being able to "move on"  &amp; Its a small amount, but I think its just enough to saturate this one part of my yard..

I dont want to have to pump it but I had a section of 6 IN PVC that I put in the ground (I drilled holes in it and surrounded it with crush n run)  - came back in about an hour and there was several more inches of water in the PVC pipe - Got me thinking, since we have desert like sun in the summer could I put a few of these in and basically drain this via evaporation?

We got a big &amp; rare rain storm last night so the pipe is about half full - but I was going to see if I could install a few more of these and try and drain the ground _upward_?  Am I smoking crack?  I put this one in a little low, they sell some nice looking caps for these that are vented nicely (intended to let water in) - I was going to put some mesh to keep the mosquito out..

Plan B would be just to put some tomatoes or something here that likes water







Before the rain there was water at the bottom of this pipe, maybe just a few inches in the pipe. Pipe is 24 IN - its more than half full now


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## Supe (May 26, 2020)

LyceeFruit PE said:


> So our dog escaped our yard by going under the fence (we're assuming not at the gate). So boyfriend got stuff from Petco to fill the holes in at the bottom of our chain link fence [https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/dig-defence-25-pack-animal-barrier]
> 
> But there are sections of our fence that we can't use this on due to rocks. He used rebar in one small area next to the house [fence panel is maybe 2ft long]. We don't have enough rebar to fix the other area [plus that area is visible to our neighbors who have a small child]. So he's thinking metal tent stakes. Any one got some that they can recommend? I'm in charge of this since I'm "the camper" [except I hammock and have UL tent stakes for my rain fly]


Consider chicken wire/rabbit fence.  If you fold it at the bottom, that also stops them from digging at the fence line.


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## Road Guy (May 28, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> seems like I always ponder doing this this time of year but looking at whole house fans - Seems like a no brainer here in Denver since we dont really run the AC until July but there seem to be two options, one $300 and one $1200 - anyone got any intel on the more expensive one?  maybe it puts a smaller hole in your ceiling?
> 
> $300 one:
> 
> $1200 one:


So we ended up getting this installed yesterday,  Wife ended up finding someone to put it in, probably a good idea since it needed 4 new roof vents installed. But man what a huge benefit on day 1.  

its about the same noise as a new dishwasher - but it even sucks air from the basement, which is cooler than the rest of the house.  Not sure if it will be as effective in August over AC but I wish I had done this a while back.  The house was warm from having the doors and windows open during the install and within just a minute it was cool after turning it on.

The only thing it is missing is some type of remote so I can turn it off from downstairs.

Weird thing is the kid who installed it had a ME degree from Co Mines. said he just couldn't stand working a desk job..


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## Supe (May 28, 2020)

So where in the house is the inlet duct?


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## Road Guy (May 28, 2020)

its in the hall way right above where the stairs land.  Its also the place where all the heat ends up in the summer so thats also a good place to get rid of it at.  Ill grab a pic.


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## Road Guy (May 28, 2020)




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## Supe (May 28, 2020)

I think I need to talk to my HVAC guys about that next time they're out here.  We have similar issues that forces us to have to turn the AC on in like, late February.


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## Road Guy (May 28, 2020)

The actual model we had installed is the _QuietCool Trident Pro 7.0 _- it was right at $2K installed, including the extra holes in my roof..

Even in August when its desert hot here, once the sun goes down it cools off, so I am really hoping to get some bang for it this summer - our AC unit is way undersized, but we only use it 2 months a year so It didnt make sense to spend $6500 on a new AC system (i hope anwyways)


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## jeb6294 (May 28, 2020)

Wonder how much electric that would use vs an electric heat pump. I’m a cheapskate so I’d look into one, but the problem is that it so daggone humid here. Half the time when we start kicking the A/C on it isn’t because the house is so hot but cause it’s so sticky.

I will say, years ago when my aunt and uncle lived in the area they had one (the standard whole house fan, not the fancy one) and they were fine in a house with no A/C.


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## Road Guy (May 28, 2020)

I dont know if this would work below a certain latitude line - i.e. in Atlanta i would just pay the AC Bill because it would just be running in hot wet air all the time..

We had a heat pump put in the basement in my old house in Atlanta btw and it must be a little more because that required dedicated breakers and this just tapped into an outlet.  Hopefully it will just save the wal mart ghetto look of us putting those fans in the windows to try and circulate some air!


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## MA_PE (May 28, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> I dont know if this would work below a certain latitude line - i.e. in Atlanta i would just pay the AC Bill because it would just be running in hot wet air all the time..
> 
> We had a heat pump put in the basement in my old house in Atlanta btw and it must be a little more because that required dedicated breakers and this just tapped into an outlet.  Hopefully it will just save the wal mart ghetto look of us putting those fans in the windows to try and circulate some air!


I resemble that remark.  We have 3 window acs and one through the wall.  I typically run the the 4 pedestal fans as opposed to the ACs


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## jeb6294 (May 29, 2020)

From what I understand, a heat pump is nothing but a giant heat exchanger that replaces an outside condenser. In summer it provides cooling and in winter it reverses and does heat. I guess they're supposed to be really efficient because it's basically just the electricity to circulate the puron and run the fan. The caveat is that they're not great for extremes, i.e. cooling isn't enough if you live somewhere that gets really hot for extended periods and the heating needs help from super-inefficient electric coils if the temps get below freezing.

I guess I should add an addendum and admit that we also added a window A/C in our bedroom upstairs. The programmable thermostat jacks the temp up overnight and then we crank up the window A/C and stick a fan in the door. It actually does a pretty good job of keeping the upstairs pretty cool.


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## mudpuppy (May 29, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> From what I understand, a heat pump is nothing but a giant heat exchanger that replaces an outside condenser. In summer it provides cooling and in winter it reverses and does heat. I guess they're supposed to be really efficient because it's basically just the electricity to circulate the puron and run the fan. The caveat is that they're not great for extremes, i.e. cooling isn't enough if you live somewhere that gets really hot for extended periods and the heating needs help from super-inefficient electric coils if the temps get below freezing.


Heat pumps are pretty common down south. My wife had one in south Georgia, and my dad had one in southern Arizona.  In their cases they're air to air heat pumps, so basically just like A/C in the summer, that reverses in the winter.  My wife's would do fine for heat until it got down into the 20s outside, which is only a couple times a year down there.  Then the backup heat kicks in (resistance heat strips, which use a huge amount of energy.)  Since we're cheap we just opened the breaker to the heat strips and would suffer the cooler temperatures.

They're becoming more popular up north too.  My boss got central A/C installed a couple years ago and went with a heat pump since the added cost wasn't much.  It runs in heat mode until the outside temperature drops below a set point (I think it's around 40 degrees or so) and below that the furnace kicks on.  This gives the efficiency of the heat pump at milder temperatures but still able to keep up with the heating needs when it gets really cold.

I have a georthermal heat pump.  In concept it's the same as the air-air heat pumps except the heat sink/source is water instead of air.  Mine is an open loop, so it pulls from the well and dumps it outside.  Since the groundwater temperature doesn't change from season to season, it's a lot more efficient in the winter than an air-to-air.  Supposedly it's around 300 to 400% efficient (e.g. for every BTU of electricity to run the compressor you move 3-4 BTU in/out of the house.)  With the current price of electricity it's about the same cost as heating with propane, but back when propane was expensive the heat pump was much cheaper to run.


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## LyceeFruit PE (May 29, 2020)

we have a heat pump in So. ME. 

we had a decently mild winter this year but we still had it set to 72F and i was in layers.

for perspective, last winter, used the oil furnace and it was set to 62-64F. 

and the heat pump is only for the 1st floor. so the basement is unheated. and the bedrooms are over the uninsulated/unheated garage/basement. made for very cold feet.


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## Road Guy (May 29, 2020)

we put heat pumps in the basements of our houses in atlanta. They seemed to work well for an area where you dont really need as much "juice" - normally the basement would be warm in winter and cool in the summer, but if you just needed a little bit to keep the air circulating and comfy it worked well.

Conversely here in Colorado we have a gas wood stove and that is our primary heat source in the winter, it really does most the entire house - We still have the Heat kick in but mostly we set the fan to run to distribute the hot air from the stove, which is much cheaper than running the actual gas heat. (plus it looks cool)


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## FLBuff PE (May 29, 2020)

So did you base the model of fan on your house square footage, or go smaller? I have been interested in a whole house fan, as p here in the hills it would work really well, and I don't want to fork over the $$$ to add AC to our existing central air system for just 2 or 3 months of the year.


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## Road Guy (May 29, 2020)

We did go for the SF of our house - There are a couple of different models based on power vs noise - They were all pretty close in spec #'s - I think ours was one below the "Lexus"

I didnt expect to have to put 4 roof vents exhaust ports whatever you call them in the house, but it works really well.

I am in the basement and have the window cracked down here and I can feel it pulling air from all the way upstairs (just through the cracks in the door I guess)

But our logic was the same, not much use of the AC here - I defin suspect it would be a good fit where you are.

We used a company called Quiet Cool Colorado - Veteran (West Point grad / Iragi vet owned) 

Woke up at 1 Am and had to turn the thing off cause I was literally freezing -


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## FLBuff PE (May 29, 2020)

I saw on the Google (Sux) that you can get an RF controller for that model. Not sure if it'll work with the switch already hardwired in, though.


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## Road Guy (Jun 3, 2020)

These early hot days in the low 90's you defin feel about a 2 hour window where the bedrooms that face west and get the full sun blast get a little warm, but the rest of the house stays comfortable - then once the sun goes down it switches back to cool pretty quick-like

You sort of have to be strategic and close the windows on the west side of the house in the evenings when the sun is blasting that direction and open the ones on the east side of the house where the air is much cooler.


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## Road Guy (Jun 4, 2020)

So when I had my basement done, the city made me add a few more ducts off my main AC system into the basement than I really wanted.  One is the one shown here that I would like to cut off - since the basement is really well insulated its just overkill and sucks more cold air away than I need during the summer.

I currently keep the vent closed, (its about 15 FT away from this location)  but wanted to be able to push as much cold air upstairs for when we do actually run the HVAC -  I thought about removing the flex duct and adding a cap here (that I could re connect should I need to add it back in)  We dont really run the air that much but when we do the basement is an ice box and the main floor is okay and the upstairs is like LOL. what AC? (which is the main reason we put in the attic fan)


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## blybrook PE (Jun 4, 2020)

I'd add in a duct valve:







That way, you can open / close when needed and the rest of the system looks kosher if/when an inspector walks through when you sell the place. One less thing to remember to repair before leaving.

The above image is from home depot.


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## Road Guy (Jun 4, 2020)

Good idea thanks! 

Crowds at HD have died down so maybe I can manage an excursion to the HVAC aisle this weekend!


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## Master slacker (Jun 5, 2020)

Replacing a dishwasher should be easy.  Have you ever tried to replace one in a 90 year old house?  Sheeeeeiiiiiiiiiiittt.  Our house has wood floors throughout.  Like, the good stuff they used a long time ago.  At some point, a previous owner thought it'd be neat to put brick pavers over the floor in the kitchen.  Must've been done after the existing dishwasher was installed.  Well wouldn't you know... that extra thickness of that floor prevented me from removing the old washer.      After deep thoughts and debating several options, I decided to cut the legs and move them to get just enough wiggle room to rip the damned thing out. *** SUCCESS!!! ***

Now all i have to do is install the new washer. 






Remove it from the box, put on the feet and slide it to the opening.  This new one won't fit with the feet screwed out a couple of turns.  F.  &lt;screw feet all the way in&gt;  Dishwasher won't go in straight.  Gotta walk it in left, right, left, right, etc...  *** SUCCESS!!! ***  Now i just have to secure it to the cabinets with the tabs... that are still in the bag on the floor (these need to be installed prior to putting washer in its place)... *F!*   Take the f'er out, all-the-while beating the motors / pump on the bottom to shit going over the ledge created by the pavers / wood floor.  Try to install tabs with screws on tub.  Tabs aren't pre-tapped for screws...  Remove and "tap" holes with supplied screws.  Re-install.  Screws don't go flush to tub - remove screws / tabs - break out Mr. Dremel and Mr. Drill.  Install tabs and cuss the dishwasher back in the hole.  Where's my f'ing supply hose?  Go to install one hose end to the supply valve... wrong connector...  You see, the copper piping that came off was compression at the dishwasher end and flared at the valve end.  The crackhead who made that decision is sick.  My hose is compression at both ends.  *F!!!*  Wait!  I got a bag of adapters with this piece of shit.  &lt;tear the torn up kitchen apart searching for bag&gt;  I find the bag, tear it open and analyze to find that not a damned one of those adapters will work to hook up my hose at the valve.  I screwed adapter to adapter convincing myself that I could make it work.  Nothing.  Wait!  Maybe I can re-use the old copper tubing with these adapters.  Nope.  F.  I am now at the mercy of a $7 adapter fitting at the big orange box.

It's now 8 PM and I accept defeat for the day.  I am left with a dishwasher that does not work (yet), but looks good installed where it is.  I am left with an embarrassingly full sink full of dishes and a wife who isn't showing she's upset only because she witnessed this crusade.  I am also left with two boys who helped a bit during the ordeal, learned more of the fine art of "saving money by doing jobs yourself", and probably learned a few new words.  To be continued.


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## Road Guy (Jun 5, 2020)

so the boys washed the dishes?

we bought a new dishwasher last year and the fine folks that built our house didnt run the tile all the way under, they had just placed some backer board that was "about" the same thickness as the tile but it didn't quite work with the new dishwasher, so I had to go buy a couple of slate pieces of tile to make it level &amp; it just irritated the shit out of me that it was like that


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## Master slacker (Jun 5, 2020)

It’s in!  It works with no leaks!  Oh the old dishwasher is from 1993.  :blink2:  After 27 years in service, I can say it led a good life.


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## MA_PE (Jun 6, 2020)

The coating on our dishwasher racks is peeling in places and rusting.  Replacement racks are like $200+ each.  WTF!  So we might as well just get a new washer.  This one is probably 15 yo anyway but it works great.  I recall when we bought it. I just said f’k it and paid the $100 to have it installed.  I recall mine saying the installer was whining that the existing machine was difficult to get out because it was old.  She’s like no shit pal that’s why we paid for a professional to do the install.  Lol.  Glad I went that route.  Will probably go that way again.


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## Road Guy (Jun 6, 2020)

A lot of Costco’s appliances are free install - 


Anyone try the new models of cordless circular saws? Supposedly the new batteries have come along way- need to get a new saw and wouldn’t mind trying one out - was looking at the Dewalt one mainly because I have a few other 20V batteries already.


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Jun 6, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> A lot of Costco’s appliances are free install -
> 
> 
> Anyone try the new models of cordless circular saws? Supposedly the new batteries have come along way- need to get a new saw and wouldn’t mind trying one out - was looking at the Dewalt one mainly because I have a few other 20V batteries already.


I like the dewalt one, but what I’ve heard is that Makita has a superior battery system.


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 6, 2020)

Made a new work bench to incorporate my new table and miter saws.


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## MA_PE (Jun 7, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> A lot of Costco’s appliances are free install -
> 
> 
> Anyone try the new models of cordless circular saws? Supposedly the new batteries have come along way- need to get a new saw and wouldn’t mind trying one out - was looking at the Dewalt one mainly because I have a few other 20V batteries already.


I was seriously considering this dewalt multi tool system that was on sale at HD the other day.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-10-Tool-w-2-Batteries-2-0Ah-Charger-Tool-Bag-DCK1020D2/305019378?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA&amp;cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700053252310110&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu6bslNjv6QIVjonICh3hWAWVEAQYAiABEgKnF_D_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
 

I just don’t use things that much and my experience with battery powered tools is that when you go to use it the batteries just don’t hold a charge anymore.  Maybe these newer batteries are better in this regard.


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## wilheldp_PE (Jun 7, 2020)

MA_PE said:


> I was seriously considering this dewalt multi tool system that was on sale at HD the other day.
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Combo-Kit-10-Tool-w-2-Batteries-2-0Ah-Charger-Tool-Bag-DCK1020D2/305019378?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA&amp;cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700053252310110&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu6bslNjv6QIVjonICh3hWAWVEAQYAiABEgKnF_D_BwE&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds
> 
> 
> I just don’t use things that much and my experience with battery powered tools is that when you go to use it the batteries just don’t hold a charge anymore.  Maybe these newer batteries are better in this regard.


Yeah, some things just don't make sense to be battery powered unless you are on a construction site with no plugs available.  I used to have a battery powered circular saw and sawzall.  Couldn't make more that a couple of cuts before the batteries were drained.  Even when I was drilling hundreds of holes in studs for wiring while finishing my basement, I used a corded drill so I didn't have to change batteries ever 30 minutes.


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## blybrook PE (Jun 7, 2020)

The new batteries aren’t much better. If you’re not using them regularly, you’ll be recharging them after a short usage time. Cordless has its place on my workbench, but most work is still done with corded tools.


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## jeb6294 (Jun 8, 2020)

Aside from my table and miter saws, my stuff is all cordless...including the weedeater. I've got a corded circular saw, but I almost always use the cordless because of the convenience factor. I don't think I even own a corded drill any more. The weedeater is a good example. No, it will never work as well or have as much power as a gas trimmer, but all I have to do is put the battery in and go so I actually use it. When I had a gas, the trimming was rarely done because it was a PITA.

My combo of choice is the Ryobi 18V set(drill/circular saw/saws-all) that I got probably 20 years ago when I got my first house. Everything has worked great all this time and they get used on a pretty regular basis. At one point I thought it was time to replace because the tools seemed to not be working as well. Long story short, I  ended up with one of the new Li-ion batteries and everything worked like new again.


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## Road Guy (Jun 8, 2020)

I wish I could give one a try before I buy - I was thinking about getting the dewalt one just because I already have 3- 20V batteries - and then pick up a cheapo one with a cord for infrequent uses when I need "more power"

 When I did my above garage shelves that was a lot of drilling and such and it went all day on one charge (thats what she said) - but I know the circ saw is going to draw a little more power - I'm not looking to frame a house or anything, - I found some 2X12's under my deck that are surprisingly in good condition and I am going to make some of those adiirondack ski chairs with them - I figure it will be 20-30  "cuts" per chair?


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## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jun 8, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> it will never work as well or have as much power as a gas trimme


Agree, but for my field the eGo weedeater totally rips! Battery run time is about an hour which is about as long as I care to run it anyway. Worth every penny.



jeb6294 said:


> Ryobi 18V set(drill/circular saw/saws-all)


I have the same. It's "good enough' for most normal tasks. Of course team yellow, blue, or red would be sexier to own but I just don't need that kind of power. My circular saw is gold though (5-ish year old Skilsaw Mag 77) because when I need to cut stuff, I usually have to cut a LOT of stuff.


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## squaretaper LIT AF PE (Jun 8, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> I was thinking about getting the dewalt one


If you get team yellow please report back! Why not, if it's good I may pick it up, too. Then I can hand off the 18V Ryobi stuff to my younger brother.


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## snickerd3 (Jun 9, 2020)

We have the cordless dewalt stuff. drill circular saw, leaf blower, flash light, and something else I don't remember.  It works for our purposes


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## Master slacker (Jun 9, 2020)

Team Red in the house!


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## jeb6294 (Jun 9, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> I wish I could give one a try before I buy - I was thinking about getting the dewalt one just because I already have 3- 20V batteries - and then pick up a cheapo one with a cord for infrequent uses when I need "more power"
> 
> When I did my above garage shelves that was a lot of drilling and such and it went all day on one charge (thats what she said) - but I know the circ saw is going to draw a little more power - I'm not looking to frame a house or anything, - I found some 2X12's under my deck that are surprisingly in good condition and I am going to make some of those adiirondack ski chairs with them - I figure it will be 20-30  "cuts" per chair?


One of the reasons I've stuck with Ryobi is because I've got the batteries. They're kind of like the "air compressor" for cordless tools. Once you've got batteries you can actually find the tools fairly cheap if you look around because places will sell refurbished ones without the batteries. It's like the air tools, once if you've already got the compressor, the tools can actually be had fairly cheap.

My circular saw isn't the best anymore, but I think it is more of matter of needing a new blade more than anything.


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## Road Guy (Jun 9, 2020)

Didn't Ryobi get into the lawn care market too?  I think I recall seeing a bunch of there stuff - I also rarely use a weed eater because its a pain (&amp; I buy the pre mix gas they sell) - but for my size lawn I could probably totally get a cordless one - 

I used to be a big fan of porter cable, but they seem to have died off - I picked up a new dewalt drill they had on sale at xmas for $99 bucks and its been pretty nice - I hadnt been a big fan of them from my home depot days, but that was mainly because there sales people were dicks


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## Master slacker (Jun 9, 2020)

Ryobi is meh.  I got their impact and battery combo when it was on sale a while back and overall it's solid.  Their weedeater and leaf blower are not impressive, but more than do the job for our small needs.  Their recip saw, good grief, it was good while it lasted.  Built my deck with it, but died right after.  Got it refurbed (had to pay shipping) and it broke again.  I'll pay extra for quality from here on out.


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## jeb6294 (Jun 29, 2020)

So I’ve been working on a thing. I wanted to get the smoker out of the garage but wanted to keep it protected from the elements since it’s electric so I made me a miniature (~6’ tall) outhouse. Still not finished, got a few bits of trim to do and figure out what I want to do for the door handle, but figured it was close enough....

Got all fancy and did a drawer for the smoker to sit on and found a f-to-m connector at, of all places, Cabelas so it’s got a place to plug the female end of an extension cord In on the back and then plug the other end in like normal.


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## Supe (Jun 30, 2020)

That's awesome!


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## Road Guy (Jul 2, 2020)

that is pretty bad ass!


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## Road Guy (Jul 5, 2020)

So I ended up getting the Dewalt cordless circ saw (the 6-1/2” blade version)

Guy at Lowe’s was like bring it back if you don’t like it.

Pretty happy with it. I had a bunch of scrap lumber from the basement and other projects and made 2 Adirondack / ski chairs - made at least 20+ cuts, (about half pressure treated wood) and the thing worked like a champ - it struggled a little on cross cuts , but it was still going strong on the last cuts of the day.

Since I also had my table saw out (I had to rip some of the 2X8’s to make 2X4’s)- but it was Defin njce to have one less cord around.

I’m gonna grab another battery so I’ll have at least 3- usually have the one going in the drill so it would be nice to have one available to charge...


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## Dleg (Jul 5, 2020)

I love all my cordless stuff.

I have an eGO weed trimmer, leaf blower, and hedge trimmer. Two batteries are part of that - at high power I could get about 30 minutes on the weed trimmer. I needed the extra battery because I had a quarter acre of dandelions in the back of our property in Alaska. But I could easily complete the trimming on the regular lawn with one battery. The big plus was I didn't go deaf doing it like with the gas powered trimmer, and like others have said it was so much more convenient - just insert the battery and go. 

The weird thing with the leaf blower is that when I would use it to blow snow off the deck, I would get shocked if I found myself enveloped in a large enough cloud of ice. Not painful or deadly (based purely on the fact that I am still here!), but still a little unnerving. And even weirder, I would feel the shock in my heavily gloved hands. I'm not an EE so I am not entirely sure what was going on there...

I have all Makita cordless tools. I bought the more expensive brushless versions of the drill and driver, supposedly that gives 25% longer battery life (??). This weekend I used my cordless oscillating multitool to grind out the grout between 11 24x24 floor tiles. Worked great - I started with one battery with half charge and got almost all of them, and just switched batteries to finish.


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## Flyer_PE (Jul 5, 2020)

Two words: Milwaukee Fuel

Power cords are so last decade.  So far, I have converted to cordless for the following:

Sawzall, circular saw (7-1/4 inch), 1/2 inch drill/hammer drill, 1/2 inch impact wrench, 1/4 inch impact driver, LED work light.  All in 18 volt with brushless motors.

3/8 inch drill and 1/4" impact driver.  Both in 12-volt brushless

With 3 batteries and a pair of chargers, I haven't managed to drain a battery without having a fully charged one ready to go.  That little 3/8" M12 drill is the handiest damn thing I've purchased in the last couple of years.


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## mudpuppy (Jul 6, 2020)

I'm kind of the opposite of you all--the only battery powered tool I have is a drill.  Corded tend to be more powerful and cheaper, and I'm a cheap ass.


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## Road Guy (Jul 6, 2020)

i am just not a fan of dragging a cord around for a power tool if there is another option (aside from the larger power tools) - We do the "leaf vaccum" thing here in Co and I got sick of the electric version (which sucked) and ordered a gas one - not only is it "more power" it has a larger bag so my kids can vacuum up the leaves in the fall in like half the time 

But I do love my pneumatic tools...


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## P-E (Jul 6, 2020)

mudpuppy said:


> I'm kind of the opposite of you all--the only battery powered tool I have is a drill.  Corded tend to be more powerful and cheaper, and I'm a cheap ass.


Same here.  Lot of the stuff I bought a long time ago still works fine.  Maybe when they stop working, I'll switch over.

I have a cordless weed trimmer and hedge clipper.  The hedge clipper still works fine but the weed trimmer not so much - it never had enough power.  I replaced it with a Stihl FS90R.  It has a 4 stroke engine, but still have to mix the gas and oil.  Works great.


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## P-E (Jul 6, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> i am just not a fan of dragging a cord around for a power tool if there is another option (aside from the larger power tools) - We do the "leaf vaccum" thing here in Co and I got sick of the electric version (which sucked) and ordered a gas one - not only is it "more power" it has a larger bag so my kids can vacuum up the leaves in the fall in like half the time
> 
> But I do love my pneumatic tools...


My neighborhood got together and bought a Little Wonder leaf vac.  The thing is a monster.  You don't want to run it without hearing protection.  It probably saved me days of leaf blowing and raking last fall.


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## wilheldp_PE (Jul 6, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> We do the "leaf *vaccum*" thing here in Co and I got sick of the electric version (which *sucked*)


Doesn't that mean it was operating properly?


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## Road Guy (Jul 6, 2020)

lol - yeah I suppose, but it sucked at leaf sucking...


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 15, 2020)

The last few days my wife and I have gotten a ton done on our fireplace remodel. My wife wanted a new mantle for the fireplace because the one that came with this home when we bought the place was pretty wimpy. So I promised her I would do that upgrade as her birthday present this year. We went and bought the 8x8x96 beam on her birthday (end of May), and we are just now getting noticeable progress completed. This lil project has required the use of every power tool I own, save for my planer and joiner!  I've used:
Drills
Nail guns
mitre saw
skill saw
radial arm saw
table saw
router
band saw
sawz all
jig saw
Disc sander
palm sander
random orbital sander
and eventually I will use my tile saw
I am just about spent on this project!  
 





To kick off the project, we pulled all the old tile and backer board off of the surround. With that, also came the old mantle piece and the shelf board (which was basically one piece with some trim below it to create a mantle-- pathetic!).




I got the backer board up and had our kitchen remodeling contractor lay the hearth tile (it was part of his project already since he was laying this slate in other areas-- that project is a whole 'nuther thread).




Next came the mantle piece. There was a ton of prep work to do on the mantle piece itself just to get it ready to install. It juts back into that ~2.5" wall recess, so that meant removal of a bunch of material from the ends. When it came to working with this beam the main problem was, of course, that I don't have anything that can make a clean cut through 8" material (the sawz-all can, but it doesn't make clean cuts, or at least I don't have the skill to with it). I had planned to use my band saw for the main cuts (cutting to length and to cut the end recesses, but when I went to use it, I discovered it only has a 5" opening!  So I had to get creative and used a few different cuts from various sides (my father chided me for not using a hand saw, but he is apparently unfamiliar with my skill using one). We decided to try to keep one end in it's natural state, so the end on the right is a little bit rougher cut and is of course naturally weathered. On the cut end (the left end in these pics), my wife mixed some stain up that made it match the natural weathered look and her match is amazing!  Next came the mounting. We'd read that one of the best ways to hang a beam like this on the wall, is to mount a 2x4 to the wall, and make a pocket in the back of the beam for it.  That required a bunch of router work, as well as multiple passes with my skill saw (in retrospect, a nice stacked dado blade would have saved some time, but I don't have one and it was another $100 expense this project didn't need). The nice thing about this method for this project, is I was able to attach the beam to the wall mounted 2x4 from the back, so there are no fasteners showing at the front. Note that if you don't have access to the back and still want the no-fastener look, you can just keep your pocket tight and glue it, but that requires a bit of fixturing while the glue sets. Either way, the joint is very strong.





Next came some of the detail work around it. I took the old shelf board, cut the front off of it so it would fit in behind the new mantle piece, and raised it up to the new height. It's actually set down about 3/4" below the top of the mantle piece to help hide it, since it's different material and finish than the mantle. We may just end up painting it, but this keeps it out of sight either way. My wife had found a picture she wanted to emulate that included some shiplap in the surround, so the last couple days have been spent installing that.




Keeping the arch was going to be beyond the scope of what I wanted to do for this project because it's so time consuming to notch a board and soak it to get it to curl, plus this arch is the only arch in the entire home, making it a bit out of place. So I boxed in a new frame and ran the ship-lap over the arch.  I will add some doors to that opening, eventually.
 




The last tricky part of this project has been the fact exactly nothing is square or level and the upper left portion of the left wall area isn't co-planar where it juts back across the wall shelf. There isn't a clean way to break between that area above the wall shelf and the rest of the wall, which I hadn't discovered until I went to run the trim up the left side. There was going to be a huge gap between either the terminus strip I would run at the end of the shiplap in that area, or the shiplap on the right, and likely both.  As luck would have it, the shiplap piece that runs back into that area fits tight to the top of the wall shelf, so I just ran it back to the other corner.  When I put my trim up on that side, it will just stop short as the top of the wall shelf (and will cover up the raggedness of the boards on that side).








We still have the tile to set, which will be the antique brick that's been cut down to tile thickness that you can see in a couple of the earlier pictures. I still have some trim to install at the edges and above where the tile will go above the fireplace, and then there will be some corbels added where the "legs" meet the mantle, as well as a couple plinth blocks and another trim board that will give the legs some more dimension.  Thankfully, my wife has volunteered to do all of the painting, because as challenging as some aspects of this project have been, painting is the thing I hate the most. Plus, she's a much better painter than I.


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## Supe (Jul 16, 2020)

Looks good.  We were contemplating doing something similar to our fireplace with the shiplap and mantle, albeit with flat walls and no recess to deal with.  We have a pretty dated looking late 90's beige-ish marble surround and standard white big box store overly-busy looking mantle.


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## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2020)

I like the look, especially the new mantle

What was the open area where the arch used to be before just a place to put plants or something?  Seems like houses built in the 90's added in a lot of those "wasted space / dust catching areas?) - just a guess at the age?


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## Supe (Jul 16, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> I like the look, especially the new mantle
> 
> What was the open area where the arch used to be before just a place to put plants or something?  Seems like houses built in the 90's added in a lot of those "wasted space / dust catching areas?) - just a guess at the age?


Most of those were designed for tube TV's or early smaller flat screens, when 36-38" TV's were "big".


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## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2020)

I guess I dont recall seeing the TV"s over the fireplaces until the flat screens were more the norm?  My last house in Atlanta had all these weird places like that to collect dust  that were hard to reach -

99% of the houses in my current subdivision had these built in fireplace bookshelves except ours the owners chose not to and I am so glad because everyone is having to tear them out so they can fit the 65" TV's!


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## Road Guy (Jul 16, 2020)

So Ive got 3 weeks until the eldest (hopefully) goes back to school and I wanted to take advantage of free labor and get the frame for my arbor on the back deck done   before he goes back to college -

Ive decided to not attach it to the house, but to run a header on its own support / foundation just offset from the house (12 IN)

Code allows me either choice - I am leaning toward the old fashioned way of the one on the left here:  

Its too tall to use the one on the right for what I need but what do you all think of the main advantages of using the middle example here (with some sort of simpson strong tie anchor bolted into the concrete footing?

Im looking at the structure being 10FT from the ground (Deck is around 3 FT off the ground)


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## Supe (Jul 16, 2020)

Less rot potential due to the post being elevated above ground level.  Also provides a bit less latitude if you make a mistake during installation/setting of the post.  Downside is that the middle option has less lateral support.  I prefer option 1 for the tall stuff, and option 2 for the short stuff.


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 16, 2020)

Supe said:


> Less rot potential due to the post being elevated above ground level.  Also provides a bit less latitude if you make a mistake during installation/setting of the post.  Downside is that the middle option has less lateral support.  I prefer option 1 for the tall stuff, and option 2 for the short stuff.


I believe you mean that is provides more latitude.  Either way, the amount of lateral support you get is dependent on the type of post to concrete attachment anchor that you use. I just had an addition put on that is post/pier construction and it uses wind load rated anchors.


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 16, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> I guess I dont recall seeing the TV"s over the fireplaces until the flat screens were more the norm?  My last house in Atlanta had all these weird places like that to collect dust  that were hard to reach -
> 
> 99% of the houses in my current subdivision had these built in fireplace bookshelves except ours the owners chose not to and I am so glad because everyone is having to tear them out so they can fit the 65" TV's!


That is what this space was for: tv with large rear projection tube over the fireplace. The thing is, this place was built in 2005, so that was already on its way out.


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 21, 2020)




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## JayKay PE (Jul 21, 2020)

@Audi driver, P.E. that looks super, super neat and I love the whole color scheme!  Is it a normal wood-burning fireplace or a gas one?  Either way, awesome.  Throw a fake plant or lava lamp in the alcove and you're good to go!


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 21, 2020)

JayKay PE said:


> @Audi driver, P.E. that looks super, super neat and I love the whole color scheme!  Is it a normal wood-burning fireplace or a gas one?  Either way, awesome.  Throw a fake plant or lava lamp in the alcove and you're good to go!


It is a gas fireplace. And the alcove will be covered with doors and I'm going to re-mount my flat screen TV on them.


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## JayKay PE (Jul 21, 2020)

Audi driver said:


> It is a gas fireplace. And the alcove will be covered with doors and I'm going to re-mount my flat screen TV on them.


I'm assuming the doors will be sealed in some manner if you're mounting on them.  Are you going to attempt to hide wires or anything behind the doors?


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 21, 2020)

JayKay PE said:


> I'm assuming the doors will be sealed in some manner if you're mounting on them.  Are you going to attempt to hide wires or anything behind the doors?


I'm not sure what you mean by sealed (they will be painted). The wires will feed through with  service loop.


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## Audi Driver P.E. (Jul 21, 2020)

As an aside. I've done hundreds of home improvement projects and this is the first and only one I have ever remembered to document before and after photos, let alone in process photos.


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## Dleg (Jul 23, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> So Ive got 3 weeks until the eldest (hopefully) goes back to school and I wanted to take advantage of free labor and get the frame for my arbor on the back deck done   before he goes back to college -
> 
> Ive decided to not attach it to the house, but to run a header on its own support / foundation just offset from the house (12 IN)
> 
> ...


Not a structural guy at all, but speaking from Alaska deck experience, you want the middle version especially if you make the connection threaded/adjustable so you can keep the deck level and true as things settle or jack due to frost. I had to pay some dude $3k to come and fix my deck as I was moving out. Which also goes to prove that home inspectors are dirtbags. The same engineer inspected when I bought, and didn't say shit about this (and a number of other things) until I was selling.


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## Road Guy (Jul 23, 2020)

In practice for residential applications I don’t thinK that type of connection is really meant to be adjustable though - it’s just anchored in the concrete that way and there isn’t usually much room to move it up and down - I did my old deck with those and like them But I’m looking at being around 10FT from the ground and will probably anchor them into the ground / concrete - if I even get around to doing it - the more I look into this the more of a PIA it’s looking to be (have to remove more of the existing deck than I first thought)

Defin a cooler weather job


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## Supe (Jul 23, 2020)

I've got just over half of the new decking boards trimmed and fastened.  This has been one of the most miserable jobs in history, courtesy of the heat and humidity.  At least the HOA biotch hasn't replied back, so I'm just waiting for a written letter to show up in my mailbox


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## snickerd3 (Jul 23, 2020)

we had the Morton Building Guy out to the house yesterday to get a quote to pour a new concrete patio (current one is 30+ years old and slanted towards the house) and build a residential sized pavilion over part of it.  We tend to only use the front yard because it has two huge oak trees that provide shade all day.  The back yard has a smaller trees so the shade is not as great.


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## Road Guy (Jul 23, 2020)




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## Road Guy (Aug 17, 2020)

So I had been trying to find why one of my back yard sprinkler zones wouldn't work all summer, which included putting in a new valve, re doing all the wiring, checking the wiring in the control panel, etc to no avail and having to put out some temp sprinklers and a hose to keep that side of the yard from dying any more...... I was about to call a sprinkler guy when I thought well the wire from the control panel must be cut somewhere. The zone would run if you turn it on manually. But not in test mode or not in program mode, It was super annoying.

So I ran a wire above ground from control panel to the valve, still nadaa.. check the ohms, yeah its got ohmms.. Fucks!

so on a 98 degree day I was about to give in a and call for help    but then I reverted back to my parts changer mechanic abilities and thought to myself, self, what if the valve you bought earlier in the summer was a dud? I mean all this shit is made in China anyways. right? So I go back to the home depot, grab a different brand valve, put the god damn thing in and viola! The mother fucker worked!! unbelievable... 

I was like a week away from just digging up the grass and putting in some landscape rock..


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## Road Guy (Aug 17, 2020)

^- probably at least 24 billable hours in this little fix, but at least I didnt have to pay someone to fix it


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## jeb6294 (Sep 8, 2020)

Need everybody’s interior decorating ideas. Wife is supposed to get home on the 28th. I was thinking about replacing the kitchen sink/faucet before she gets home....really everything should be replaced but that isn’t in the budget or time allowance. As you can see, the white sink has gotten pretty dingy over time and it looks even worse with the white countertop. I was debating a matte black sink with a stainless faucet thinking that may go with the black stove and stainless fridge and dishwasher. Not sure how it’d look with the existing bronze handles since they were bought to do with the current faucet. Other thought was get a standard stainless sink and keep the faucet or get a newer version but I’ve never liked those sinks with high rise faucets because the metal is too thin.


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## leggo PE (Sep 8, 2020)

Personally, from the photos, I think the current faucet and handles match the handles on all of your cabinets nicely. I might just replace the sink with a stainless steel one and call it a day. Is replacing with another white sink out of consideration, because of the discoloring over time?


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## blybrook PE (Sep 8, 2020)

My sink looks similar for discoloration, but a good scrub with comet brings back the shine (usually quarterly). 
 

If it were me, I’d go for the stainless sink and an upgraded faucet in the same color or stainless. Skip the nickel and chrome.


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## jeb6294 (Sep 8, 2020)

I put in a stainless sink and a similar faucet at my old house and I didn’t like it. The metal is too thin and there’s too much leverage with the tall faucet so it always seemed wobbly, but it was just the metal bending.

Also rather not do another white sink just because everything else is white and i think it’s probably beyond cleaning at this point.

The faucet goes with the handles because I got everything in oil rubbed bronze. That’s why I’m not sure about the black sink going with the oil rubbed bronze hardware.


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## Road Guy (Sep 9, 2020)

What about one of those old school farmhouse looking big white sinks people put  in nowadays? 

i hate to say ikea but they have some cool stuff in that department.


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## Supe (Sep 9, 2020)

I would second the farmhouse sink, otherwise, black granite composite sinks are SO much better than stainless in terms of look and durability.  FWIW, I will never install another double bowl sink ever again, and everyone I know who has switched from double to single has not regretted it.


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## jeb6294 (Sep 9, 2020)

Farmhouse would be neat, but a little more involved and a lot more expensive than I was looking to spend, especially since this is really just a bandaid to make it look a little better until the cabinets and countertop get replaced.


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## Supe (Sep 9, 2020)

In that case, I'd go granite composite as they're reasonably inexpensive.


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## Violator (Sep 9, 2020)

If you get new countertops doesn't that usually result in a new sink also?


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## leggo PE (Sep 9, 2020)

Supe said:


> I would second the farmhouse sink, otherwise, black granite composite sinks are SO much better than stainless in terms of look and durability.  FWIW, I will never install another double bowl sink ever again, and everyone I know who has switched from double to single has not regretted it.


What do you do if something ever happens to your (I'm guessing) single sink drain? That's the argument I've heard for having a double sink. I've had both. I kind of like two sinks because we hand wash all dishes. If you have a dishwasher, I don't see any particular advantage to having a double sinks.


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## Supe (Sep 10, 2020)

leggo PE said:


> What do you do if something ever happens to your (I'm guessing) single sink drain?


Same thing as with a double, since the double sink drains tie together before the trap, so you just risk a murky mess of food juice backing up through the "clean side" and ruining those freshly hand washed dishes.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Sep 10, 2020)

In terms of the thinness of the stainless sinks, is it possible to add a wood filler underneath the sink to make that portion sturdier? Some faucets are installed directly through a countertop, so you should have enough thread on the faucet connections


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## jeb6294 (Sep 10, 2020)

I took the Comet suggestion and that cleaned it up quite a bit...still not great, but better than it was. When I started looking at sinks at HD/Lowes/Menards, I also noticed that the stainless sinks are much heavier gauge that they used to be. The one I put in 20 years ago was probably 22-ga while a lot of the newer ones are 18 to 16-ga. I wonder if that's a direct result of more high-rise faucets nowadays.


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## Road Guy (Sep 10, 2020)

Back when my wife would go out of town she just seemed happy if the house was cleaned when she got home!

I have been wanting to take up the carpet on our stairs and replace with oak tread, but I really need to get the whole family out of the house for a weekend to make that work out -


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## envirotex (Sep 10, 2020)

You'd be surprised how much dust is eliminated just by removing the carpet on the stairs...it was a noticeable improvement.  No more walking around in socks, though...


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## Road Guy (Sep 10, 2020)

Ive slowly been doing the whole downstairs - we are going to keep the upstairs bedrooms carpet since we have "winter" but wanted to do the stairs in wood since it looks so much better.  

I did our old house in Atlanta and it was a great improvement - but yeah you have to get used to the slip factor.

The hardest part will really be painting the goofy shaped stair well before I put the floors in - which is the wifes SOP


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## jeb6294 (Sep 10, 2020)

Our stairs and upstairs hallway were carpet, but have been bare unfinished hardwood flooring for years now. Guy is going to be here to measure for carpet tomorrow. Hopefully they can get it in before she gets home.

I try to clean the best I can before she comes home, but I’ve also been kicking around the idea of hiring someone to come in a do a serious house cleaning before she gets home too.

One other thing I’m in the process of doing is updating the front of the house. Brick on the bottom, 2nd floor is light beige vinyl siding. Tearing off the old faded forest green shutters and replacing them with “Wineberry” shutters from HD. Painted the side light frames on the front door to match and got a new steel door painted to match...the old door looks pretty rough but I don’t want to replace the whole thing because our dogs are idiots and scratch up everything every time somebody comes to the door.


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## jeb6294 (Sep 18, 2020)

Any thoughts on how long silicone caulk (the stuff you use with a caulking gun) should last in an unopened tube?

To help dress up the kitchen sink/counter, I was going to replace the gnarly caulk around the sink and finally do the caulk where the counter meets the wall. There’s a tube out in the garage, but TBH, it’s been there so long that I don’t even know how old it is.

If it hasn’t solidified, do you suppose it’s still good?


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## blybrook PE (Sep 18, 2020)

I’ve got several tubes that are going on 5 years old in my garage. I used two last weekend without issue. 
 

If they haven’t frozen, you should be ok. Worst case, you’ll have to pull and replace in a week if it didn’t setup properly.


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## wilheldp_PE (Sep 19, 2020)

blybrook PE said:


> I’ve got several tubes that are going on 5 years old in my garage. I used two last weekend without issue.
> 
> 
> If they haven’t frozen, you should be ok. Worst case, you’ll have to pull and replace in a week if it didn’t setup properly.


I must have bought some crappy stuff, then.  I bought a tube of silicone caulk when I finished my basement (2010), but ended up not using it.  I needed it a few years ago for another project, and it never solidified (stayed liquidy/tacky for about 2 weeks before I gave up and bought some new stuff).


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## jeb6294 (Sep 19, 2020)

I’ll probably get some new but wait until I’m going for something else. Just didn’t want to make an extra trip.


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## jeb6294 (Oct 9, 2020)

Any thoughts on any particular crapper from any of the big box stores, i.e. HD/Lowe’s/Menards? Doing a search online is pretty typical...nobody can agree on anything.

The one in the boys’ bathroom needs some work. I went to get all the stuff to fix it and started thinking it might be better to just go ahead and replace it cause the old one is one of the little short ones.


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## snickerd3 (Oct 9, 2020)

I think there are just a couple preferences but otherwise a crapper is a crapper.

height, oval or elongated, then water usage   

we have one of those "non-clogging" types...bullshit marketing ploy.  We bought one of those super low water usage ones for the basement bathroom...I don't like it.  End up having to flush more often and it clogs more easily.


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## Road Guy (Oct 9, 2020)

I'll check the brand when I get home but the one I bought for our basement has been nice- it came with a "higher grade" of tank guts if that makes sense - but I think in general if you stay away from the cheapest level ones you do okay- I just remember the one I bought had the best tank to bowl connection system I had seen (was a super easy install)


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## kevo_55 (Oct 9, 2020)

Japanese style toilet FTW!


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## Road Guy (Oct 9, 2020)

I am afraid to google that!


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## jeb6294 (Oct 9, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> I am afraid to google that!


I’d imagine he’s referring to the thousand dollar crappers with the heated seats that’ll even wipe your ass for you.


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## jeb6294 (Oct 9, 2020)

I ended up getting a Kohler at The Depot. I was torn between the Cimerron and the Highline when I saw the Elmwood. Highline just didn’t seem to be the right style for a kids’ bathroom...trying to be too fancy. The Cimerron has Kohler’s latest turd tornado flushing system or whatever they call it. I think the Elmwood might be one of those Depot only things. It’s got the turd tornado, looks nicer than the Cimerron but not too much like the Highline, and was $60 less than the Cimerron and $10 less than the Highline. With my 10% HD discount, I was out of there with the crapper and everything to put it in for $186.


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## leggo PE (Oct 9, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> View attachment 18967


Congrats! It looks like, a toilet!


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## blybrook PE (Oct 9, 2020)

If they boast about anti clog capabilities, I'm tempted to test those claims. 

If my step dad was still around, he'd be one to clog it! There's been only two toilets that he wasn't able to clog, one was the outhouse, the other had a water jet flush.


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## Road Guy (Oct 9, 2020)




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## jeb6294 (Oct 9, 2020)

Dear sweet baby Jesus...I should have just paid someone to do it. I don’t know what kind of 3rd world gonasyphiherpiaids is growing under that thing, but it would have been worth whatever price a plumber would have charged. Old one is out and the whole “toilet area” floor is currently soaking in bleach spray cleaner.

On the positive side, some of the old wallpaper was still on the wall behind the old toilet. If you don’t remember, the previous owner thought he was a handyman, but in reality, was a complete moron. Like, lucky the house didn’t burn down moron. His wife called herself an interior decorator. Apparently, just as bad at that. The wildflower misery was first and then they “updated” to the seasick inducing nightmare.


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## Violator (Oct 12, 2020)

How long did it take to remove all those layers?


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## jeb6294 (Oct 12, 2020)

Fortunately, the wallpaper was already down. The toilet must have gone in a couple updates ago and they took down as much as they could and painted hat they could without taking the toilet out. These were just the leftover scraps hidden behind the tank.


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## jeb6294 (Oct 20, 2020)

Was working on stuff around the house at the time so I suppose this is as good a place as any, but I can confirm that Stihl makes a good chainsaw. My old saw wouldn't start so it went to the shop. While I was there I ended up getting a new one so I could keep working and have a 2nd saw for smaller stuff. My old saw, when it was warmed up, I could do that thing where you can hold it by the handle and start it. Apparently the new saw has much higher compression because when I tried to do that with the new one, the only thing it did was smack myself in the shin.

Wife cleaned it up and would have stitched it up but didn't have any lidocane and it was too bad for bandages. Went to the urgent care and got 8 stitches. BTW, if anyone is interested, apparently nobody ever bothers to change the code on their cabinets from the default 1-2-3-4 if you ever want to raid the "good" drawers at the doctor's office.


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## snickerd3 (Oct 20, 2020)

jeb6294 said:


> Dear sweet baby Jesus...I should have just paid someone to do it. I don’t know what kind of 3rd world gonasyphiherpiaids is growing under that thing, but it would have been worth whatever price a plumber would have charged. Old one is out and the whole “toilet area” floor is currently soaking in bleach spray cleaner.
> 
> On the positive side, some of the old wallpaper was still on the wall behind the old toilet. If you don’t remember, the previous owner thought he was a handyman, but in reality, was a complete moron. Like, lucky the house didn’t burn down moron. His wife called herself an interior decorator. Apparently, just as bad at that. The wildflower misery was first and then they “updated” to the seasick inducing nightmare.
> 
> ...


we had an entire wall in the kitchen that had layers of wallpaper...people obsessed with ivy vines and/or fruit.  I think we counted 4-5 different types.


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## jeb6294 (Oct 21, 2020)

So, was walking Ezra up to get the bus this morning and saw something that pissed me off, but then got me wondering AITHA (am I the asshole)?

Our neighborhood is still a fairly even split between families and really old people who were original residents whose kids are grown. Guy (really old guy) is out blowing leaves, but he's blowing them into his neighbor's yard. Different guy and his wife (also really old people) were out walking and stopped. First old guy says that the tree is in the neighbor's yard so he's blowing the leaves back in their yard.

I'd always said that it doesn't matter where the tree is, if it overhangs into your yard, the leaves that end up in your yard are still yours. Of course, I already don't like this old asshat because he's also one of the guys who think the storm sewer curb inlet is his own personal lawn debris disposal system.


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## Supe (Oct 21, 2020)

Nope.  Just like insurance - it lands in your yard, it's your problem.


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## Road Guy (Oct 21, 2020)

So you're saying were not suppsed to rake the leaves into the storm drain?

Ive got a large maple that overhangs the neighbors property, I do feel bad becasue it holds onto leaves so long before it drops them that its usually the windy season and 90% of the leaves end up in his yard, Ive reached over and raked what I can but the neighbor has always told me not to worry about it since the tree provides a lot of shade for that side of the house..

I hate the lots here in Denver, so small you dont have a choice but to collect the leaves and put them out of the trash.  I do miss my 1.5 acre lot in Atlanta, id just blow them into the woodline and forget about them.. &amp; and sometimes the storm sewer) ;0


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## jeb6294 (Oct 21, 2020)

Since half our yard is the woods, all our leaves just get mulched with the mower.


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## youngmotivatedengineer (Oct 24, 2020)

My yards and double driveway is full of leaves from my adjacent neighbors.  After renting at a condo complex for 3 years, I'm actually excited to get back to doing yard work.


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## MA_PE (Oct 24, 2020)

Blowing leaves into anybody’s yard is a real [email protected]#k maneuver.  We abut woods so I dump mine there.  I’ve paid someone to do it the past couple of years and I make them take the leaves away.  I’ve got an oak (city owned) in front of the house.  The acorns are a royal pita.  I have to pay the landscaper an extra $100 because of the acorns.


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## Road Guy (Oct 24, 2020)

Usually We get very high winds (this time of year when the leaves fall) I’ve never had to rake the front - I don’t know where they go but they disappear before I can get to them - I figure that’s gods will or something...but the back yard for some reason the leaves are real heavy and don’t blow away...

raking leaves  into a bag was new to me when we moved here and I bought one of those leaf vacuum sucker things - but it’s really just faster to rake them up the old fashioned way


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Oct 24, 2020)

Ok, need an opinion...

We have a wooden deck in our backyard. It was built over some of the window wells in our basement, so those rooms have a view of the underside and it’s always dark. I’m considering removing it and replacing with a concrete patio instead; it would be a heck of a lot less maintenance, would allow light into the basement, and could look just as nice.

Should I do it or no?


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## Supe (Oct 26, 2020)

I'd use it until it rots, then get rid of it.  A patio with nice seating/plants shouldn't lose any value compared to a deck.  Maybe consider a paver patio in lieu of concrete, as they don't crack and can be a cheaper DIY project.


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## jeb6294 (Oct 26, 2020)

Mom went from a wood deck to a concrete patio. Personally, I think I probably prefer the deck, but the patio is fine too. I will say the concrete is a lot easier to maintain. The deck had to be cleaned and stained every few years and after a while as the wood dried out, it got more and more "splintery".


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## Road Guy (Oct 26, 2020)

if you just want the light can you modify it so that it is open at the windo wells? (thats how ours is)

I peronsally like the look of the wood deck (weve got the trex deck stuff) - ours is pretty low to the ground and Ive often wondered about doing a brick patio - but I was just never a fan of the concrete patio - unless there was some staining or paterns or something?


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Oct 26, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> if you just want the light can you modify it so that it is open at the windo wells? (thats how ours is)
> 
> I peronsally like the look of the wood deck (weve got the trex deck stuff) - ours is pretty low to the ground and Ive often wondered about doing a brick patio - but I was just never a fan of the concrete patio - unless there was some staining or paterns or something?


Staining and stamping would most likely be in the picture if we were to go with concrete. Light is one of the main factors, but the maintenance aspect is equally important for me.



Supe said:


> I'd use it until it rots, then get rid of it.  A patio with nice seating/plants shouldn't lose any value compared to a deck.  Maybe consider a paver patio in lieu of concrete, as they don't crack and can be a cheaper DIY project.


I do like the idea of a paver patio, but the question would be whether I’d like to deal with possible cracks or weeds. Either way, both would be easier to maintain than a wooden deck, from my perspective.


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## Supe (Oct 26, 2020)

ChebyshevII PE said:


> Staining and stamping would most likely be in the picture if we were to go with concrete.
> 
> I do like the idea of a paver patio, but the question would be whether I’d like to deal with possible cracks or weeds. Either way, both would be easier to maintain than a wooden deck, from my perspective.


If the base is done right, you shouldn't get any weeds.  I have a stamped concrete patio from the PO, and it looks like crap in various areas due to cracks propagating.  If you do get weeds, you get to play with a weed burner anyways!


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## Road Guy (Nov 2, 2020)

so ive been trying to chase down why my outside outlets dont work and discovered why ( partially my fault) but the outdoor outlets are on a GFI that resides in the basement-  behind the water heater - this area used to be open but when I finished the basement in it got missed that you cant (easily) access this area anymore- most of the reason is my new water heater is more of a "tuna can sam" and is short and wide    but I can no longer squeeze behind it to access it- I was able to reset the GFI with a long screw driver, but I am sure someone will bitch if and when I go to sell the house.

I put up a wall right next to but not directly behind the outlet so maybe I could install one of those access panels so you can techincally reach it?

I also found another item I need to fix in my my circuit panel.  I had hired an electricain to install the sub panel but I did the final wiring - City inspector didnt actually look at how the wires are done but I have 3 areas on one circuit breaker -I did have to install the breakers that have the "test" feature built in ( cant recall what that is called) but I suppose each of the 3 areas should be on its own? (right now they are all pig tailed into a 15 amp circuit). I had totally forgot that I needed to come back and give each their own breaker but how do you determine how much can go on a single breaker? Or should I assume that since the electrician ran seperate wires from each of these areas to the panel that he intendid to give each their own breaker?


TheGFI mentioned above that controls two outdoor receptacles

lights, receptcle, for a closet ( really one light, and one receptacle)

Half the lights in the large room of the basement ( 4 can lights)



Thanks for any help, I could ask google, but I fgure there are smarter people here


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Nov 2, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> so ive been trying to chase down why my outside outlets dont work and discovered why ( partially my fault) but the outdoor outlets are on a GFI that resides in the basement-  behind the water heater - this area used to be open but when I finished the basement in it got missed that you cant (easily) access this area anymore- most of the reason is my new water heater is more of a "tuna can sam" and is short and wide    but I can no longer squeeze behind it to access it- I was able to reset the GFI with a long screw driver, but I am sure someone will bitch if and when I go to sell the house.
> 
> I put up a wall right next to but not directly behind the outlet so maybe I could install one of those access panels so you can techincally reach it?
> 
> ...


Your breaker is either an AFCI or a GFCI. I would guess it's GFCI but without seeing it I can't be sure.

For light circuits I would determine what the standard wattage is for each light fixture and determine total wattage from that (if your fixture would take 60w luminescent bulbs normally, use 60w as a worst-case scenario). For outlets, technically you can put as many as you want since they draw no power on their own, but you should still be reasonable (You don't want to have 18 outlets with 100w each on them; that would overload the circuit).

Are you sure you don't want the outdoor receptacles on a 20A breaker? What will they be used for?

EDIT: Just in case it isn't clear, you determine how much you can put on an outlet by total watts. For a 15A breaker, you can put up to 1800W on the load (120V x 15A). For 20A, it's 2400W. (This is of course assuming we're not talking about a motor circuit or something with a large inrush).


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## Road Guy (Nov 2, 2020)

AFCI thats what its called, also $$$$ - all of them in the basement are AFCI (except the one for the GFI in the bathroom) which is just a regular breaker.

I have never used the outdoor outlets all that much, usually just for xmas lights or the occasional tool usage -but its been sparingly, but probably a 20A would take the occasional use of a circ saw or come other heavier power tool. I could move the 15A to one of the lights and pick up another 20A AFCI ?  ive got plenty of room in the panel so other than the high dollar cost of the Arc Faults its easy to add one for each.

Can you do a AFCI on top of a regular GFI receptable?   I didnt know if that was like a double double or something (thinking back to why the bathroom GFI is on a reg breaker?)


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Nov 2, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> AFCI thats what its called, also $$$$ - all of them in the basement are AFCI (except the one for the GFI in the bathroom) which is just a regular breaker.
> 
> I have never used the outdoor outlets all that much, usually just for xmas lights or the occasional tool usage -but its been sparingly, but probably a 20A would take the occasional use of a circ saw or come other heavier power tool. I could move the 15A to one of the lights and pick up another 20A AFCI ?  ive got plenty of room in the panel so other than the high dollar cost of the Arc Faults its easy to add one for each.
> 
> Can you do a AFCI on top of a regular GFI receptable?   I didnt know if that was like a double double or something (thinking back to why the bathroom GFI is on a reg breaker?)


AFCI and GFCI serve different purposes. The former is for equipment protection from fire, and the latter is for human protection from shock. There shouldn’t be any reason why a GFCI outlet wouldn’t work on an AFCI breaker.

I also forgot one detail. Per National Electrical Code, conductors carrying continuous loads (ones that will have maximum current for 3 hours or more at a time) need to be derated to 80% of the full ampacity. So a lighting circuit will actually be limited to 0.8x15A = 12A, which gives you 1440W total, if you plan on sticking with #14 wire. If you need more, upsize the wire.

And, if you do go with a 20A breaker, make sure you've sized your wire appropriately.


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## mudpuppy (Nov 4, 2020)

Cheby's posts are spot on.  Just to add to what he said:

From what I've read AFCIs are required for pretty much everything new these days (residential), but if you don't put one in worst is you'll be called out on it in an inspection.

Since your wiring is already installed, 20 A vs 15 A will be dictated by your wire.  If it's 14 AWG copper you _have_ to use a 15 A breaker.  If it's 12 AWG you can go to 20 A.

I just did a little code research and AFCIs are not required if it only serves a bathroom.  And of course a GFCI is required in a bathroom.  But if the circuit serves both a bathroom and something else then an AFCI is required (and a GFCI would be required in the bathroom.)

In my opinion, more circuits is better.  I have one circuit that feeds half the basement and most of the 2nd floor and I can't run a space heater in more than one room because it trips the circuit.  So if all three circuits are wired back to the panel then I'd just bite the bullet and install two more breakers.


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## Road Guy (Nov 5, 2020)

thanks to both of you, very helpful, Ill add some more breakers this weekend!

Ill grab a pic but I still dont konw what to do with my inaccessible receptacle!


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## Road Guy (Nov 11, 2020)

anyone have one of these?


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## Supe (Nov 11, 2020)

Looked into them a while back.  Biggest downside is that they're small and don't throw off a ton of heat radially (most of the heat goes straight up like a chimney).  They're also a bitch to clean and the finish gets ruined pretty quickly.


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## Road Guy (Nov 12, 2020)

the size is what i thought would be bad, I saw one in use at a hardware store here and it put out some heat but it looked like you would need perfectly manicured firewood..

I finally burnt a hole in my fire pit and need to either make one out of those rock wall blocks or get another cheapo metal ones


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## Supe (Nov 12, 2020)

They do burn HOT, but because of their size and the fact that they're double walled, you've got to be hovering really close to it.  It's not something you'd want 6-8 people trying to squeeze around in the yard.  You also have to tip them over to empty them out, which sucks, because it has to cool down enough to handle before it rains, or it turns the ash into hockey pucks and starts to rust it out.


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## snickerd3 (Nov 12, 2020)

what is this firepit nonsense


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## Road Guy (Nov 12, 2020)

apparently that type of activity is frowned on around here.. :dunno:


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## snickerd3 (Nov 12, 2020)

true, we don't have quite the same issue here


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## Road Guy (Nov 12, 2020)

we dont have much to burn, but we like to do some fall and early spring backyard fires.

Everyone here planted aspen trees, which resprout new trees, but they also die alot so we have a never ending supply of cheap wood..

got wood?


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## snickerd3 (Nov 12, 2020)

We need wood, everything we have been burning lately is leaves and brush type stuff.  When we cleared out the tree line this summer we fell a couple of dead trees but as that picture shows we burned all of it ASAP the termite damage was too much to let sit around.


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## bwin12 (Nov 12, 2020)

Is the Solostove similar to a Breeo in that it is supposed to be smokeless or smoke reduced? Are you aiming for low smoke? 

Back when I used to read Nextdoor there was lots of complaints about smoke from backyard fires. There probably still is, but I smartened up and stopped reading about it.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 13, 2020)

Technically, we’re allowed to burn in the back yard, but the township makes it such a PITA that it might as well be banned. We’re supposed to get a permit from the fire department but to get it you have to show that you’re a couple hundred feet from any property line and/or structure and also have a water source at hand. There are only a couple properties that can even meet the requirements.

You can have a fire pit or burn barrel but that kind of limits how much crap you can get rid of. Fortunately, we’re pretty isolated on the cul de sac so we’ll burn a pile every once in a while and haven’t had any issues. With half our property being woods, we’re never short of brush/branches/logs to burn.


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## Supe (Nov 16, 2020)

Sounds like you just need to build a hopper that feeds a leaf-blower-powered burn barrel then.


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## jeb6294 (Nov 16, 2020)

We'll just keep doing our burn pile every once in a while and then play dumb if the fire department ever does get called on us.  We do run a hose down to the pile and we try to light it up on days after we've had some fairly recent rain.


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Dec 2, 2020)

I've got a hankering to remodel my home office, which is in the basement; We have a fireplace in the living room and the kitchen, and the chimney appears to extend through the basement. Whoever originally finished the basement covered up the chimney portion (in my office) with particle board, then put drywall on it.

What's confusing me is a section on my ceiling that is lower than the rest, which appears to have the same thing going on. I can't tell, might this be a structural thing for the chimney, or is this covering up something else that isn't related?


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## leggo PE (Dec 2, 2020)

It looks like a soffit for something. I'm not sure what, maybe some MEP ducts or something? But this is single home construction. They probably just covered whatever the heck they wanted. I'd be surprised if it was related to the chimney, though to honest, I can't tell where the second photo was taken in relation to the first. I also don't have your house's floorplans (which I'm not sure you have, either). The surest way to know what it's covering is to uncover whatever's underneath! But I'm sure you're already thinking that!


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## Supe (Dec 2, 2020)

Weird soffits have a tendency to cover HVAC or plumbing that was added later, or was too hard to move when finishing a previously unfinished space.


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## ChebyshevII PE PMP (Dec 2, 2020)

leggo PE said:


> It looks like a soffit for something. I'm not sure what, maybe some MEP ducts or something? But this is single home construction. They probably just whatever the heck they wanted. I'd be surprised if it was related to the chimney, though to honest, I can't tell where the second photo was taken in relation to the first. I also don't have your house's floorplans (which I'm not sure you have, either). The surest way to know what it's covering is to uncover whatever's underneath! But I'm sure you're already thinking that!






Supe said:


> Weird soffits have a tendency to cover HVAC or plumbing that was added later, or was too hard to move when finishing a previously unfinished space.


Yeah, now that I look at it more closely, it looks like it is HVAC related. The weirdness seems to come from the fact that they had to go around the chimney structure. I guess it has to stay...which is going to make it interesting to move the door to the room.


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## Road Guy (Dec 2, 2020)

yeah I agree if that is in the basement my guess is thats your HVAC ducts.

You can move anything with time &amp; money!


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## jeb6294 (Dec 2, 2020)

Probably HVAC. We’ve got one in our finished basement but ours goes the whole length of the basement. If yours did that, I’d say it’s HVAC and a support beam like ours is.


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## MA_PE (Dec 2, 2020)

Wouldn’t hvac ducting like that have some grates into the room?


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## P-E (Dec 2, 2020)

Road Guy said:


> anyone have one of these?


Couple of the neighbors have the medium sized one.  One guy has the Yukon. The large Yukon will fit normal cut firewood but it chews through wood super fast.  The upside is you don’t get a bunch of smoke in the face.  Downside is they aren’t cheap.


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## wilheldp_PE (Dec 3, 2020)

MA_PE said:


> Wouldn’t hvac ducting like that have some grates into the room?


Not necessarily.  They are trunk lines running to different parts of the house.  I built two such soffits when I finished my basement, and I only have a vent in one of them.


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## bwin12 (Dec 28, 2020)

My wife and I built out our unfinished basement for our kids (1.5, 4, 7) to play during COVID winter. We built a climbing, wall, a couple swings, a ball pit, etc. To avoid injuries we need to install some type of floor. We currently have a few carpets but they don't provide any impact protection and there is lots of bare concrete floor. I'm looking at 600-800 SF to cover, the walls are the standard plastic backed insulation nailed/taped to the walls. 

We have a repurpose/recycle yard here in Denver that has astro turf from football fields, my wife vehemently opposed that idea. I have 3/4" rubber floor on the other side of the basement where my home gym is set up, but that stuff isn't much softer than concrete and stinks of rubber for weeks after install. 

I found carpet squares on Craigslist (office type carpet), I am considering those on top of a thick carpet pad. I could also get normal carpet wholesale, but I am concerned about it staying flat if we are not going to tie it to the floor like it should be.  

Anyone have experience/ideas on a cheap solution? It doesn't have to be perfect, just functional.


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## snickerd3 (Dec 28, 2020)

I have going to say tire mulch, but it will likely smell from rubber.


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## snickerd3 (Dec 28, 2020)

https://www.safelandings.com/


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## Road Guy (Dec 28, 2020)

Just spitballing but what about a faux wood floor-  2X w/ plywood and then the thickest carpet pad you can get / carpet and some of those roll out gymnastics mats? Not sure what they are called or where you get them but at my gym when we have practice handstand walk day we have these mats which are around 8’ x 14’ you roll out so when you fall it doesn’t hurt so bad? I’d say they are around 4 “ thicc


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## bwin12 (Dec 28, 2020)

I looked at mats, but they are really damn expensive for 32-48 SF ( was looking at the 4 or 6' by 8' folding gymnastic/tumble mats). I thought about them for the rock climbing wall area, but it is apparent we need padding on the whole floor. 

You do bring up a good point on plywood (sub) flooring, that, or at least a border around the edge, would give me what I need to hold carpet around the perimeter. I wonder if I could put 1/2" by 4" trim along the wall, then thick carpet foam with a cheap carpet over the whole thing?

The safe landings stuff would be great, but its too permanent and expensive for this situation. 

I'm still thinking...


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## melanie (Dec 30, 2020)

Have you looked into horse stall mats? I've heard they are good for home gym floors. Example: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat


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## bwin12 (Dec 30, 2020)

melanie said:


> Have you looked into horse stall mats? I've heard they are good for home gym floors. Example: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat


I have that stuff on one side in the home gym area. Its pretty good, but I am afraid it won't save a head injurie when the 4 year old barrels over his younger sister or the 7 year old smacks the youngest with the swing (side question- are 7 year olds capable of paying attention to anything?).

I am also seriously considering a nerf suit for the youngest and leaving the floor as is.


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## NJHHEngineer P.E. (Dec 31, 2020)




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## jeb6294 (Feb 2, 2021)

This stupid humidifier is getting on my last nerve. We’ve got water leaking out the bottom of the furnace. Where the humidifier is, it isn’t getting anything vital wet...it is leaking from the duct down at the floor and it in the unfinished part of the basement so it’s still ending up in the floor drain...but it’s really annoying.

Never remember it doing the before. I checked and the drain is clear and I put a new water drip panel in it today. It’s like the furnace is pulling the water from the humidifier instead of blowing through and up through the little bypass duct.


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## Supe (Feb 3, 2021)

Stuff like that is super annoying. We had water staining on the ceiling from our AC. At first, we thought the pan must have overflowed, but they were stumped, said everything looked fine. Happened again this year. Turns out that water was actually condensing up in the sheet metal distribution box, running down the inside of the flex duct, and totally saturating the thing until it started dripping out the bottom of the duct itself. It's been OK since they reinsulated the shit out of everything, but we'll see how it does next year when it actually gets hot out.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 3, 2021)

I'm starting to wonder if it's always been this way and I just never noticed because the water leaking into the basement through the cracks in the wall. Everything was there when I got the house...haven't added/replaced anything...but as I've started to look into it more, I'm starting to see things about not adding a humidifier when you have a heat pump (which we have) because they don't actually get hot enough. Wondering if the idiot previous owner screwed me again with one of his half-ass "home improvements". Got a house full of creaky hardwood floors so it definitely needs a humidifier so I may just let it go while I do more checking since there's no floor to ruin and the water is still making it's way to the floor drain.


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## Supe (Feb 3, 2021)

Hope you get it figured out.

If I can get a dry day for once, this weekend's project will be installing a hot/cold hose spigot. The amount of dog mud being tracked in is just absurd, and we can't take it anymore. 

Picked up the mounting block and all the requisite hardware yesterday. Looks like an easy/straight shot to tee off of the kitchen sink hot water line, cold water line is already there. PITA part will be yanking two rows of vinyl siding and getting the mounting block sturdy enough to install it. They have some hokey, crooked chunk of pressure treated in the crawlspace now holding the old spigot on. The new one will be much nicer, as it's got 12" or so long rigid pex-ready copper tubes behind it, so I can surface mount the anchor block and just drill two holes, done deal. Will also be putting shutoff valves in line too. Never understood why nobody seems to do that for outdoor faucets. 

P.S. - its dumb as hell that Lowes sells 25' pex sections as straight lengths, not wrapped into spools. Ended up having to "tie a knot" in two ten foot sections just to get it home, because I was not going to buy 100 feet of the shit.


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## pbrme (Feb 4, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> Got a house full of creaky hardwood floors so it definitely needs a humidifier so I may just let it go while I do more checking since there's no floor to ruin and the water is still making it's way to the floor drain.


Jeb, our previous home had hardwood and a humidifier. I was having the exact same problem and couldn't figure it out on my own. I ended up hiring a HVAC service tech and they fixed it by redesigning the drip pan P-Trap (I had replumbed that section when I remodeled the mech room). They said if it is too long or too short, it will either prevent adequate drainage or siphon the humidifier flow. For all I knew, it could have been any number of things. I ended up signing up for their bi-annual service contract and got a discount on that call. It's really the best money you can spend on cheap home insurance, and I have used this similar service since selling that house. They come every spring and fall, run diagnostics, clean coils and boards, check line set charge ..etc. basically find any potential problems before they become reality. As a former engineer for a mechanical contractor, I highly recommend this to everyone. Just do some shopping and find a reputable tech who doesn't work on commission and tries to upsell snake oil (refrigerant charge "conditioner").


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## Supe (Feb 8, 2021)

Outdoor hot/cold faucet successfully installed. Took me about 4-5 hours on Friday to get it done. Holy shit am I getting old - I STILL feel like a truck hit me from crawling in/out of the crawlspace and trying to hold my neck up. 

What a miserable job - cold and wet to begin with from all the rain. I expected SOME water when I cut the first PEX line, but it just kept coming, and coming, and coming... So then I'm laying in puddles on plastic sheeting under the house. I wise up and get a bucket instead of a towel for round 2. Cut the hot water PEX line and... like an ounce of water comes out.

I have to say, I was pretty surprised about the PEX lines. The old translucent white PEX line that the house was built with has a substantially larger ID than the new stuff. It goes on loose to the new fittings, whereas the new line from Lowes is a snug/light press fit before you ever get the clamp on it. Seems to be holding just fine, will crawl under there next weekend to check for leaks.

Of course, the stupidity of the original builders never ceases to amaze me. The spigot that was there turned out to be some two piece inside/outside threaded jobber with a rear mounting flange that you would just secure to the framing with short screws (I've never seen that style, couldn't even find a picture of one online). Instead, they screwed the back piece into a block of wood, used spray foam as an adhesive to hold the block of wood in place, and then threaded the spigot in from the outside? WTF? I ripped out the block of wood and ended up just sawzalling the thing off since there was no way to hold it in place to stop it from turning.


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## JayKay PE (Feb 8, 2021)

*frantically reads this thread*

I'm thinking of buying a house in a few months (stupidly, in this sellers market) and this thread doesn't make me feel super great, but it also makes me feel kinda okay, because so many things can be fixed by hand. I want something pretty turnkey, since it's only myself, but I wouldn't mind minor upgrades/work in the house.


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## Supe (Feb 8, 2021)

JayKay PE said:


> *frantically reads this thread*
> 
> I'm thinking of buying a house in a few months (stupidly, in this sellers market) and this thread doesn't make me feel super great, but it also makes me feel kinda okay, because so many things can be fixed by hand. I want something pretty turnkey, since it's only myself, but I wouldn't mind minor upgrades/work in the house.


My buddy just bought a house in Salt Lake City. He wondered why he could feel a warm draft when standing under a bunch of can lights. Previous owners cut holes in the main HVAC duct and ran electrical through it for the can lights, so it was blowing hot air out the light fixtures.


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## JayKay PE (Feb 8, 2021)

Supe said:


> My buddy just bought a house in Salt Lake City. He wondered why he could feel a warm draft when standing under a bunch of can lights. Previous owners cut holes in the main HVAC duct and ran electrical through it for the can lights, so it was blowing hot air out the light fixtures.


This...is distressing. I am hoping to get a fairly bare-bones house that has nothing exciting, which means no 'improvements' made by the previous owner. The main thing I'm looking for in my potential home: garage of some sort and a pretty nice/utd kitchen. Everything else can be falling apart as long as I have a gas oven.


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## Supe (Feb 8, 2021)

I would say pay the money and do a lot of searching for a REALLY good home inspector. One that doesn't just give the "I can't access it because you didn't leave me a ladder, therefore, I'm not going to look at it" kind.


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## NJHHEngineer P.E. (Feb 8, 2021)

Supe said:


> I would say pay the money and do a lot of searching for a REALLY good home inspector. One that doesn't just give the "I can't access it because you didn't leave me a ladder, therefore, I'm not going to look at it" kind.


^^ This. I hired a guy off of a few recommendations from friends. He was phenomenal. Went up on the roof, crawled under the deck, went up in the scuttle to my attic with his own ladder (no true stair access). 

Granted - they'll take a good look but they wont "see" everything. There's a bunch of things we found in my house after we moved in/started doing updating of our own. Some of which were electrical issues. I'm not an electrician by any means but I have a basic knowledge of wiring/code and am capable of doing some basic electrical work. One of the men of the house (I think the woman was married 2-3 times according to neighbors) was _apparently _a licensed electrician. Wired up several things that were just flat out wrong and really would only make sense to the person who ran the wiring, as he did not properly mark the wires as HOT when necessary (what fun that was finding a bunch of white "neutrals" carrying current).

Another recommendation I would make as it seems silly and it was not something I thought about when looking at houses and doing final walkthrough etc. Look at the outlet situation in each room (and outside). There's a couple rooms/hallways in my house where the outlet placement could have been better thought out. My upstairs hallway has ZERO outlets so we run the vacuum plugged into the bathroom outlet and then leap frog as needed to closer bedrooms. I also have just 1 pair of outlets on the exterior of my house and they're always in the wrong spot when I need some power. I have nothing in the front of my house, so I get out of putting up Christmas lights every year (not complaining). None of this is a deal breaker for me, but just a matter of convenience. I hate having to run a mile of extension cords when I need power somewhere.


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## bwin12 (Feb 8, 2021)

NJHHEngineer said:


> ^^ This. I hired a guy off of a few recommendations from friends. He was phenomenal. Went up on the roof, crawled under the deck, went up in the scuttle to my attic with his own ladder (no true stair access).


We used a recommendation from our relator, that's probably the best way to find a good inspector (well, you need a good relator first). 

The last 2 houses we have bought were new builds- highly recommended route. In my opinion, you pay very little premium (if any) going with a new build, and you get a new house. I am in Denver metro though, and they are building new neighborhoods everywhere since 2013.


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## wilheldp_PE (Feb 9, 2021)

bwin12 said:


> We used a recommendation from our relator, that's probably the best way to find a good inspector (well, you need a good relator first).


I disagree. Inspections and haggling over repairs is one of many barriers to closing on a house. It is in the realtor's best interest to have as few recommended repairs as possible. Sure, there are some honest realtors and inspectors out there, but I certainly wouldn't count on it.


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## LyceeFruit PE (Feb 9, 2021)

Somewhat related... I believe I've sent this to @JayKay PE before from the IG account @ZillowGoneWild (srsly check it out)



^This house was featured on ZGW awhile back AND THE PEOPLE WHO BOUGHT IT COMMENTED!!!


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## NJHHEngineer P.E. (Feb 9, 2021)

LyceeFruit PE said:


> Somewhat related... I believe I've sent this to @JayKay PE before from the IG account @ZillowGoneWild (srsly check it out)
> 
> 
> 
> ^This house was featured on ZGW awhile back AND THE PEOPLE WHO BOUGHT IT COMMENTED!!!



I mean, that house is pretty wild though. Didn't expect to see that in the interior based on the exterior.

Is it just me or is that giving off some serious like 70's disco adult film/gentleman's club vibe...in every room. Like every time you walk into a room it just starts playing stereotypical "classic" adult film tracks...


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## mudpuppy (Feb 9, 2021)

I had a friend that had a house in a similar style to that. Not quite as hardcore 70s as that, but it had the spiral staircase and a koi pond in the living room.


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## bwin12 (Feb 10, 2021)

wilheldp_PE said:


> I disagree. Inspections and haggling over repairs is one of many barriers to closing on a house. It is in the realtor's best interest to have as few recommended repairs as possible. Sure, there are some honest realtors and inspectors out there, but I certainly wouldn't count on it.


Is this why Redfin (and others) is a viable option nowadays?


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## Supe (Feb 10, 2021)

bwin12 said:


> Is this why Redfin (and others) is a viable option nowadays?


Redfin tends to have three main appeals:
1) Better scheduling due to a roving band of agents
2) Better software
3) Much lower rates and commission kickbacks

#3 is the biggie. 1-2% vs 6% is real money on a couple hundred grand. Especially if you end up with a shitty realtor and are effectively paying a huge chunk of change just to fill out standard forms.


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## wilheldp_PE (Feb 10, 2021)

I'd say that #3 is the ONLY reason to use RedFin. Zillow has pretty much removed the need to hire a realtor to get access to the MLS. I don't understand how realtors have avoided anti-trust issues for as long as they have. There is blatant collusion between them to keep commissions up and competition out.


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## pbrme (Feb 10, 2021)

Your lack of home improvement skills is disturbing.


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## snickerd3 (Feb 10, 2021)

my kids aren't diehard fans for things like that. They like a lot of different things. Minisnick would have to do one wall minecraft, one wall Harry potter, one wall roblockx, one wall pokemon. SNickette a wall each of unicorns, mermaids, Barbie, rainbows.


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## wilheldp_PE (Feb 10, 2021)

Methinks the kids' interests had very little to do with that project. That smacks of dad being a huge Star Wars fan and making those beds because he thinks they're cool.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 14, 2021)

What kind of weight do you suppose 4 or 5 doubled up 2x8’s with 1/2” plywood sandwiched in between would support over a 20’ span?

I’ve started cleaning up another section of the back yard and found what might be a decent spot to get a little bridge across the creek. I haven’t started clearing the spot or actually getting posts in the ground so I’m just guessing it’d be about 20’. Thought about throwing a couple utility poles across, but the logistics would probably be way more involved. Also saw someone selling some 20’ 2x6 1/4” thick steel box beams on the local CL, it those would be ~250lb, so they’d be a handful too.

Ideally, I’d like to be able to use it to get the mower with the wagon back and forth so I can start clearing crap out on that side of the creek. Tractor is 530lb. Add in a rider and a loaded wagon and I’d figure it’s a very conservative 1,500lbjust to be on the safe side.


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## Supe (Mar 15, 2021)

Looked up at the kitchen ceiling last night and saw staining around a nail pop and a small spot right next to it. Had Mrs. Supe knock on the ceiling, and while it could be coming from the toilet or something, it was directly below the corner of the shower, where the door hinge, pan, and tile all meet up. I guess I'm going to remove all the old, dried up caulk, reseal, and prime the spot to see if it returns. If I have to cut out another section of that kitchen ceiling to start a leak search, I'm going to absolutely lose my shit.


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## kevo_55 (Mar 15, 2021)




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## Supe (Mar 15, 2021)

That's about what happened the first time when my daughter caved the ceiling in, just without the tub itself.

So I'm seeing a bunch of small areas of missing grout between a number of the shower tiles, and a bad deteriorated pocket of nastiness in the corner of the shower pan, right at the door. A big chunk of grout popped out, so I'm HOPING that's it. I'm not seeing any indicators of water bleed from the toilet area, but the wax ring is about 9 years old, so I guess I'll replace that anyways. I'm hoping a good caulk job around the shower will be enough to get by until I sell this shit hole. I do NOT want to pay to have someone come in and retile the shower and tub.


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## blybrook PE (Mar 15, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> What kind of weight do you suppose 4 or 5 doubled up 2x8’s with 1/2” plywood sandwiched in between would support over a 20’ span?
> 
> I’ve started cleaning up another section of the back yard and found what might be a decent spot to get a little bridge across the creek. I haven’t started clearing the spot or actually getting posts in the ground so I’m just guessing it’d be about 20’. Thought about throwing a couple utility poles across, but the logistics would probably be way more involved. Also saw someone selling some 20’ 2x6 1/4” thick steel box beams on the local CL, it those would be ~250lb, so they’d be a handful too.
> 
> Ideally, I’d like to be able to use it to get the mower with the wagon back and forth so I can start clearing crap out on that side of the creek. Tractor is 530lb. Add in a rider and a loaded wagon and I’d figure it’s a very conservative 1,500lbjust to be on the safe side.


Jeb, it'll depend on the grade, configuration and spacing of the 2x8's, how they are fastened together and what you are using as a decking to transfer the loads. 

I presume you will be using pressure treated or exterior grade 2x8's. So if you post the anticipated configuration of the beams with the spacing, I'll take a look to see what happens. 

For example: using "X" for 2x8 beams and "s" for spacing with a four beam layout:
XsXsXsX or XXsXX or XXXX or XsXXsX or ?


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## pbrme (Mar 15, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> What kind of weight do you suppose 4 or 5 doubled up 2x8’s with 1/2” plywood sandwiched in between would support over a 20’ span?
> 
> I’ve started cleaning up another section of the back yard and found what might be a decent spot to get a little bridge across the creek. I haven’t started clearing the spot or actually getting posts in the ground so I’m just guessing it’d be about 20’. Thought about throwing a couple utility poles across, but the logistics would probably be way more involved. Also saw someone selling some 20’ 2x6 1/4” thick steel box beams on the local CL, it those would be ~250lb, so they’d be a handful too.
> 
> Ideally, I’d like to be able to use it to get the mower with the wagon back and forth so I can start clearing crap out on that side of the creek. Tractor is 530lb. Add in a rider and a loaded wagon and I’d figure it’s a very conservative 1,500lbjust to be on the safe side.


The steel beam is easy. Assuming 30ksi steel, the steel manual lists the HSS6x2x1/4 as having a section modulus (S) = 2.21(in^3), and 12.2 lbs/ft.


The formula for bending stress (σ) in beams is:

Solving for the maximum moment, based on a section modulus of 2.21in^3 and 30ksi steel, yields M = 66,300 lb•in


The formula for simple beam loading, concentrated point load (P) is:

Solving for the max point load (P), based on M of 66,300 lb•in and Length L of 20 ft (240in), gives an allowable point load P = 1105 lbs.
Subtracting the weight of the beam (~250 lbs) gives roughly 850 lbs of left-over capacity. Two of those HSS's installed in the Y-Y Axis (up-right), blocking and decent decking would cover you. The only variable in this configuration would be the pads you put in and the assumed soil PSF.

The same convention could apply to the built-up wood beams. You would just need to look-up the grade and allowable stress (on-line tables) and calculate the section modulus. Like Bly suggested, the assembly of said built-ups is also a factor but as long as the assembly in shear and pullout (screws and liquid nails) is stronger than the base material, this can be a no-nevermind.


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## Dothracki PE (Mar 15, 2021)

Anyone have any experience with C-wire kits to convert old thermostat wiring to newer thermostats? I think I could possibly do it, but I see the humidifier and condenser are also tied in with the furnace control board and I don't want to mess up those two in the process.


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## Dothracki PE (Mar 15, 2021)

Dothracki PE said:


> Anyone have any experience with C-wire kits to convert old thermostat wiring to newer thermostats? I think I could possibly do it, but I see the humidifier and condenser are also tied in with the furnace control board and I don't want to mess up those two in the process.


As a follow up here are photos of the wires at the control panel and at the thermostat. There is another wire pair that is behind the thermostat but I really can't tell where it is coming from and there is an unused blue wire. I believe the thermostat wire is the one all the way on the left in the control panel pictures. I am thinking it is as easy as using the unused blue wire to connect the common to the thermostat and the control panel, but I want to make sure I am not missing anything.


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## wilheldp_PE (Mar 16, 2021)

@Dothracki PE Like most HVAC installs, that looks like a complete dumpster fire. I'm not sure what's going on with the red wire double ganged with the yellow wire or white wire double ganged with the white wire. That black and white wire cable behind the thermostat looks like 120v, cloth-insulated cable. I'd check that with a multimeter if you have one to confirm its voltage and make it dead if it's live with 120.

Regardless, if you have a superfluous wire (looks like blue might be unused at both ends?), you just need to find a way to connect that to the 24v common somewhere at the furnace, then you'll have it available at the thermostat.


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## Dothracki PE (Mar 16, 2021)

wilheldp_PE said:


> @Dothracki PE Like most HVAC installs, that looks like a complete dumpster fire. I'm not sure what's going on with the red wire double ganged with the yellow wire or white wire double ganged with the white wire. That black and white wire cable behind the thermostat looks like 120v, cloth-insulated cable. I'd check that with a multimeter if you have one to confirm its voltage and make it dead if it's live with 120.
> 
> Regardless, if you have a superfluous wire (looks like blue might be unused at both ends?), you just need to find a way to connect that to the 24v common somewhere at the furnace, then you'll have it available at the thermostat.


Your guess is as good as mine. The furnace is about 12 years old and probably due for an upgrade in the near future. Thanks for the reply. Yes the blue is unused at both ends.

The cloth cable is dead. I checked with a multimeter.


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## matt267 PE (Mar 16, 2021)

Supe said:


> That's about what happened the first time when my daughter caved the ceiling in, just without the tub itself.
> 
> So I'm seeing a bunch of small areas of missing grout between a number of the shower tiles, and a bad deteriorated pocket of nastiness in the corner of the shower pan, right at the door. A big chunk of grout popped out, so I'm HOPING that's it. I'm not seeing any indicators of water bleed from the toilet area, but the wax ring is about 9 years old, so I guess I'll replace that anyways. I'm hoping a good caulk job around the shower will be enough to get by until I sell this shit hole. I do NOT want to pay to have someone come in and retile the shower and tub.


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## Supe (Mar 16, 2021)

matt267 PE said:


>


If I could firmly identify the source of the leak, you bet your ass I'd slap some flex tape on it right now.


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## matt267 PE (Mar 16, 2021)

Supe said:


> If I could firmly identify the source of the leak, you bet your ass I'd slap some flex tape on it right now.


I hear you. Water leaks suck.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 16, 2021)

blybrook PE said:


> For example: using "X" for 2x8 beams and "s" for spacing with a four beam layout:
> XsXsXsX or XXsXX or XXXX or XsXXsX or ?


When I framed in the carport to make it into a garage at my old house, I made the header for the garage door with 1/2 ply sandwiched between a couple 2x8's wood glued and screwed together. Trying to see if something similar would work in this case although over ~20' vs 7'. If I want to get the lawn tractor across, the bridge would have to be about 5' so with wood, I was figuring on 6 beams 12" apart.



pbrme said:


> The steel beam is easy. Assuming 30ksi steel, the steel manual lists the HSS6x2x1/4 as having a section modulus (S) = 2.21(in^3), and 12.2 lbs/ft.


Where I found the steel, can't remember if it was FB market or Craigslist, they had 3 of them 20' long, $150 apiece. Sounds a bit steep, but probably not really when you consider the cost of all the wood it'd take. The more I think about it, just going ahead and getting all three steel beams and using those seems like it'd be an easy no-brainer, but I need to make sure 20' would be long enough.


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## snickerd3 (Mar 16, 2021)

we finally got a contractor to call us back. Coming out next week to give an estimate. new patio with a detached pavilion, replacing some windows and the sliding door.

THen once all that work is done, a landscape company to regrade part of the yard and make it all pretty.


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## pbrme (Mar 16, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> When I framed in the carport to make it into a garage at my old house, I made the header for the garage door with 1/2 ply sandwiched between a couple 2x8's wood glued and screwed together. Trying to see if something similar would work in this case although over ~20' vs 7'. If I want to get the lawn tractor across, the bridge would have to be about 5' so with wood, I was figuring on 6 beams 12" apart.
> 
> 
> Where I found the steel, can't remember if it was FB market or Craigslist, they had 3 of them 20' long, $150 apiece. Sounds a bit steep, but probably not really when you consider the cost of all the wood it'd take. The more I think about it, just going ahead and getting all three steel beams and using those seems like it'd be an easy no-brainer, but I need to make sure 20' would be long enough.


Doing a quick napkin calc on the wood bridge as you describe; Say for each beam you sammich (2) - 20ft 2x8's w/ 1/2 sheeting between, and deck it the full 6' width with 2x8's. A conservative estimate for the full bridge weight would be ~1,400 lbs [beams (120 lbs/ea), decking (530 lbs), and 150 lbs misc. consumables]. After considering the 1,400 lb dead weight, you would be at approximately 1300 lb available capacity (I'll save you the math). Just checked the price of 20ft sticks at big orange and they're $32/ea. You would need around (24) 20ft'ers to do this version of the project, so yeah somewhere north of $700 just for wood.

Yeah Jeb, I would go with the 3 steel beams route IMO. You didn't mention if they were new or used. If new, see if you can get an ASTM# if they have one on a shipping label or bill of lading, so you can verify the grade and strength. Used, and I would be majorly hesitant. $450 is a little steep, I'd bring them a case of PBR and ask for the bundle price.

Obviously this is all just an informal observation on my part, user discretion is advised.


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## Supe (Mar 17, 2021)

pbrme said:


> Used, and I would be majorly hesitant. $450 is a little steep, I'd bring them a case of PBR and ask for the bundle price.


FWIW, steel prices are the highest they've been in years, and there's been a huge spike the last 3 months. 2x6x.250 right now from my local place for a 20' length is right around $20/ft. I'd still ask for the bundle price, but anything under a buck a pound around here is practically theft.


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## kevo_55 (Mar 17, 2021)

If it were me, I'd just use wood. In the end, it's just easier to work with.

With steel, you'd need to get a really good drill (or a plasma torch) and use bolts. With wood, you just can use screws.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 17, 2021)

I'm guessing the steel beams are definitely used...or at least leftovers from some other construction. When I was checking online for bridge ideas, that was the suggestion a lot of guys made, looking for surplus steel. I'm definitely more well equipped to work with wood rather than steel, but steel shouldn't need much more than screwing planks to the beams.


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## pbrme (Mar 17, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> I'm guessing the steel beams are definitely used...or at least leftovers from some other construction. When I was checking online for bridge ideas, that was the suggestion a lot of guys made, looking for surplus steel. I'm definitely more well equipped to work with wood rather than steel, but steel shouldn't need much more than screwing planks to the beams.


If you did go the steel route, I would run treated 2x4's parallel with the top of the steel. Pre-drill smaller holes and attach with these:
<1/4 in. x 2-1/2 in. T-Star Drive Washer Head High Corrosion Resistance Coated POWERLAG Screw>

They're coated, self tapping and made for steel. You can look up the shear and torsion for your design, but I'd imagine 1ft on center would be fine. Then deck screw the 2x8's to the PT rails perpendicular across the top. This will be easier to manage if you ever want to replace the decking in the future.

If you want to get super fancy, run some flexible flashing on the PT rails before you slap your decking on. It'll help prevent water saturation.
<Flexible Flashing, or something similar>



I built my dad's second story deck (14'x80') and the outer beam was W steel to 6x6 columns. Lot's of drilling on the upper 1/4" flange, so I know what you're getting into. My only other suggestion is if you do decide to go with the wood beams, make sure to look for load tables or a real calculation that fits your design. A napkin calc will give a general representation for quick cost comparisons, but like anything else, design development will take iterations to tune it right.


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## Supe (Mar 17, 2021)

Hell, I wouldn't even drill the boards to attach. Fasten or weld some angle in place over the ends just for retention, unless you're wanting the boards to be part of the structure.


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## snickerd3 (Mar 22, 2021)

Let's see if the contractor shows up tonight!!! fingers crossed. The wish list is just soo long. We are likely going to have to pick and choose. To replace all the windows and patio door that haven't already been replaced probably looking at $7-8K, my best guess. The Morton Bldg company estimate for the patio pour and pavillion build was $18K with us taking out the old and getting more rock for the expansion. Hopefully getting rid of the Morton brandname will drop the price. I'd really like to reside the whole house too, but I really don't want to drop that kind of money at this moment.


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## snickerd3 (Mar 23, 2021)

he showed up! and seemed really excited that we didn't want the pavilion thing to be attached to the house. He can't do the concrete work, so we will have to have someone else out to pour that afterwards, but that's okay. We know of a couple companies that can do that. now just to wait for the estimate, and of course none of the windows are standard size( which we knew) so custom order everything.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 18, 2021)

Worked on making the yard a liiiittle bit bigger this weekend. That dirt spot used to look like the overgrown stuff next to it. Still hard to tell, but that’s along our little creek. I want to clean up along the edge of the creek too so it can get some sun and look nicer, but I want to get some other stuff planted along there to make sure the bank doesn’t start eroding. For those who don’t have the pleasure, that’s all honeysuckle...the devils weed. Gotta get it root and all or it just comes back worse. Took a chainsaw to some of the tree sized ones and then used a come-along to yank the stumps out. Used my poor riding mower as a bush hog and mowed the smaller stuff this afternoon. That’s actually one of the other ways they suggest for getting rid of it if it’s an area that allows for it, mow it and then if it gets mowed regularly, eventually it’ll give up. The OG blades are still on it taking the beating, but I’ve already got a new set of better mulching blades that I’ll put on once the rough stuff is done.


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## mudpuppy (Apr 20, 2021)

You know what's even worse than honeysuckle? Blackberries. And wild roses. Not only do they grow back no matter what you do to them, they have nasty thorns that make it really hard to get at the base of the plant without tearing you up. I've taken to doing what you mentioned and abusing my lawn tractor (I've been through 3 or 4 spindles in the process), but I can't always get at the stuff that grows along the edge of the yard and/or trails. For those I got a cutting blade for my weedeater. That thing works wonders. But I have to wear several layers of clothes and gloves to keep the thorns from getting through so I can only use it when it's relatively cold out.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 20, 2021)

I really should get a gas weed eater with a brush cutter cause I’m sure it’d get plenty of use. Mine died years ago and I replaced it with an 18V Ryobi trimmer since I already had the other tools/batteries. It works great for routine trimming around the house, but doesn’t have enough nuts to knock down much more than grass.


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## Supe (Apr 20, 2021)

Could be worse. Could be bamboo!


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## snickerd3 (Apr 20, 2021)

Supe said:


> Could be worse. Could be bamboo!


If i had a neighbor I wanted to block a view of I would plant this...on the property line so it spreads.


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## JayKay PE (Apr 20, 2021)

snickerd3 said:


> If i had a neighbor I wanted to block a view of I would plant this...on the property line so it spreads.


Bamboo spreads in all directions. It sees neither foe nor friend, just open land that needs some decorative bamboo to improve the view.


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## DLD PE (Apr 20, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> I really should get a gas weed eater with a brush cutter cause I’m sure it’d get plenty of use. Mine died years ago and I replaced it with an 18V Ryobi trimmer since I already had the other tools/batteries. It works great for routine trimming around the house, but doesn’t have enough nuts to knock down much more than grass.


Jeb, in the past we used electric (corded or battery) tools, but after moving to TN a few years ago, we have more yard to maintain. I bought an Echo 2-stroke gas trimmer last year with the edging wheel attachment. I'm very happy with it. Very light but powerful and after spending a winter in the tool shed, cold-started with no issues earlier this spring. For an additional $115 you can get a brush cutter attachment. The attachments are simple to switch out. Just search "Echo Gas Trimmer". We bought ours on Amazon.


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## Supe (Apr 20, 2021)

JayKay PE said:


> Bamboo spreads in all directions. It sees neither foe nor friend, just open land that needs some decorative bamboo to improve the view.


Bamboo is one of the few plants capable of living through all five seasons. Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter, and Nuclear Winter.


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## pbrme (Apr 27, 2021)

So supply chain question for you all...

I do a little bit of estimating in my field, and am curious what others out in the wild are experiencing with supply chain demands and increased costs and lead time. We've all seen the recent spike in plywood, and wood in general. I've also heard that steel is experiencing the same crisis. A contractor I talked to said that B-decking was out +6mo's. Thoughts/comments?


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## Supe (Apr 27, 2021)

Steel is up, lumber is out of control. I'm wondering at this point how much is truly supply chain issues, and how much is the industry is just jacking up pricing to see what the market will bear.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 27, 2021)

Had heard part of it is a supply/demand issue. With housing going nuts, builders are trying to crank out houses as fast as they can. Also heard that people were using the pandemic as an excuse to do more renovating.


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## snickerd3 (Apr 27, 2021)

Blah. Got quotes today for the windows and the patio pavilion. The windows aren't too bad, sliding patio door, huge living room window, 4- ~4'x5' sliding windows, and 2'x3' window all install for about $6k. But the patio without the concrete is about almost the same price as the Morton bldg quote WITH concrete. might need to have the morton folks give us an updated $, since that was from last fall.


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## Supe (Apr 27, 2021)

snickerd3 said:


> Blah. Got quotes today for the windows and the patio pavilion. The windows aren't too bad, sliding patio door, huge living room window, 4- ~4'x5' sliding windows, and 2'x3' window all install for about $6k. But the patio without the concrete is about almost the same price as the Morton bldg quote WITH concrete. might need to have the morton folks give us an updated $, since that was from last fall.


Definitely do that. I was searching into metal buildings on the basis that I was going to have to build something if I bought a house, and almost every single one of them had a major jump in pricing after January 1st. However, that was more to do with steel pricing than concrete. Windows don't sound bad, standard 2x3 window replacement here runs around $500 ea.


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## DLD PE (Apr 27, 2021)

Same with ammo.


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## bwin12 (Apr 27, 2021)

Not home related, but I was talking with a shop about ordering a cap/topper for my truck. He said the prices are the same, but the delivery is a wild card. Supposedly, the cap manufacturers don't really know when they will get fiberglass from the fiberglass factory, so delivery is anywhere from 1 to 3 months. 

I saw yesterday that in fall 2009 it was $165 per 1000 board feet of lumber. A year ago it was $330. Today it is $1300 and rising.


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## Supe (Apr 28, 2021)

bwin12 said:


> Not home related, but I was talking with a shop about ordering a cap/topper for my truck. He said the prices are the same, but the delivery is a wild card. Supposedly, the cap manufacturers don't really know when they will get fiberglass from the fiberglass factory, so delivery is anywhere from 1 to 3 months.
> 
> I saw yesterday that in fall 2009 it was $165 per 1000 board feet of lumber. A year ago it was $330. Today it is $1300 and rising.


Even paper goods. There is a company out of GA who manufacturers and sells aluminum extrusions for race car wings and similar metal parts. Zero issues getting the materials to manufacture, but he's got a huge stockpile of orders sitting there because he can't get the cardboard to package and ship them.


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## jeb6294 (Apr 28, 2021)

DuranDuran said:


> Same with ammo.


It's starting to get a bit better here. Local shop is getting more in which is starting to bring prices back down from the stratosphere, i.e. 5.56 was $18/box a few weeks ago, but now it's down to $11.

Watched a report on YT about Remington ramping back up so it's going to keep getting better.


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## bwin12 (May 4, 2021)

jeb6294 said:


> Had heard part of it is a supply/demand issue. With housing going nuts, builders are trying to crank out houses as fast as they can. Also heard that people were using the pandemic as an excuse to do more renovating.


My dad has a firewood and logging business, after a conversation during my normal Monday staff meeting about material costs I reached out to him to see what he's seeing on his end. He primarily sells hardwood into firewood and the rest goes to pulp (paper), but he sells to the area sawmills when he's on an applicable lot with good pine. He said there has been no price increases, or in other words the mills don't need or want more wood. He also said there wasn't any quotas though too (limits on what you can bring to the mill- saw mill or pulp mill, so wood cutters are happy with that. He claimed saw mills were shutdown, but I don't know if that's true. 

It seems the industry found a sweet spot- produce just enough to keep the price high and money coming in the door, but not need more and have to incentivize the companies providing the trees by paying more.


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## snickerd3 (May 4, 2021)

Blah the morton folks basically said they can't get materials so they aren't taking on more work. so if we want to get the patio done this year we are going to have to pay $$$


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## jeb6294 (May 4, 2021)

I hope so. I added a few toys so I wanted to build a gun cabinet so I can lock up my new goodies. Nice plywood is up to $70 a sheet.


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## blybrook PE (May 7, 2021)

Repairs on the house are finally underway. I'm not impressed by the drywall work thus far, but it is progress.

Most recently, I've been surprised by the lack of proper box cutting. The holes are 3 times the size of the box and they say they'll fill it with mud. Um, no, you're replacing the sheet and cutting out the box to the proper size as the next EQ is going to crack all that extra mud and let it fall onto the floor.


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## pbrme (May 7, 2021)

I've had similar issues in the past. I wired my previous garage to the nines, and the self proclaimed know-it-all sheetrocker just screwed the panels on and came back with a rotory tool to buzz out the boxes. His method pushed my boxes back so they weren't flush and over buzzed the holes, which I had to have the tap and mud expert fix. He even missed a couple that I knew were there and had to point them out. Fired his stupid ass that same day.


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## blybrook PE (May 7, 2021)

I hear you PB, I've experienced the same thing with a few boxes getting covered. They hid them under the insulation & VB and then questioned why the room was going to be so dark. Thankfully they were all caught before mud & tape showed up.

The GC has been doing most of the drywall installation themselves as the drywall sub was unavailable. I have already told them if they don't have the experience to do it, then to wait until the sub is available.

Between this and constantly leaving the doors / gate unlocked, I'm plenty busy having to babysit on top of keeping up with my everyday duties.


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## pbrme (May 7, 2021)

You know, the wife and I were just talking about this the other day... why is so damned hard to find someone who cares about providing quality service anymore. When you do find it, it's few and far between, and you pay for it. It seems like these kids these days don't give a damn. I can't wait for retirement and a cane.


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## NJHHEngineer P.E. (May 14, 2021)

pbrme said:


> You know, the wife and I were just talking about this the other day... why is so damned hard to find someone who cares about providing quality service anymore. When you do find it, it's few and far between, and you pay for it. It seems like these kids these days don't give a damn. I can't wait for retirement and a cane.
> View attachment 21762



This is exactly why I do most of my work myself, provided I can. I refuse to pay someone to do something that I am capable of. With that said, I'm in the process of finishing my basement. Did all the framing, electrical and drywall myself. I paid some one to mud, tape and sand. I will do this EVERY time. I do not have the patience nor the skill to do it properly, at least on a large scale. Small repair/rooms that aren't "seen" no problem. But a roughly 1,000 SF room with a bunch of corners...shut up and take my money Mr. Mudman.


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## NJHHEngineer P.E. (May 14, 2021)

Edit - regarding cutting in of electrical boxes...They do realize there are attachments for oscillating/rotary tools that are literally the size of standard boxes with teeth to cut the proper hole every time? BUT....YOLO. I like the Rotozip. The thrill of a possible runaway while cutting just get's my blood pumping...Yes, I had a couple holes get away from me this time around...


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## pbrme (May 17, 2021)

NJHHEngineer said:


> I paid some one to mud, tape and sand. I will do this EVERY time. I do not have the patience nor the skill to do it properly, at least on a large scale. Small repair/rooms that aren't "seen" no problem. But a roughly 1,000 SF room with a bunch of corners...shut up and take my money Mr. Mudman.


This


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## pbrme (May 17, 2021)

Yay, I got to replace a dishwasher this weekend. The old one hasn't worked that great since we moved in, and I've tried pretty much every service/maintenance youtube video I found to try and make it function better. Obligatory multiple trips to big orange and it's now installed, sans the granite grabber under-counter mounts I need to pickup. Had to replace a couple multi-turn angle stops (found to be badly calcified) and got to run R&D on electrical panel tagging (old DW was hardwired, new was plug-in) so it turned out to be a slightly bigger project than just a plug and play.


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## bwin12 (Oct 5, 2021)

My wife (also an engineer) decided we need to rebuild the master bedroom closet. This is turning into an engineering/design nightmare. There are too many options. We were literally measuring hanging pants and shirts last night. She had a layout done on paper but that didn't make as much sense once we demo'd everything out. I think it will be easier to remove the door and drywall over and live with the chaos that has become the master bedroom. 

But I got a router out of the deal...


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## leggo PE (Oct 5, 2021)

My goodness, I could never imagine being married to another engineer!


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## Supe (Oct 5, 2021)

bwin12 said:


> My wife (also an engineer) decided we need to rebuild the master bedroom closet. This is turning into an engineering/design nightmare. There are too many options. We were literally measuring hanging pants and shirts last night. She had a layout done on paper but that didn't make as much sense once we demo'd everything out. I think it will be easier to remove the door and drywall over and live with the chaos that has become the master bedroom.
> 
> But I got a router out of the deal...



I want to redo our closet too, but the g-damned attic crawlspace opening sits right above where the unit would need to sit on my side. I also have reduced depth and width on that side, because the wall is bumped out to accommodate the shower plumbing. I've actually contemplating some sort of hinge for an upper box and the clothing dowels that would allow them to swing down to provide adequate clearance. All we have now are wire racks, and they suck ass.


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## snickerd3 (Oct 5, 2021)

THose wire racks aren't that bad. We redid ours before we officailly moved in. before it had those metal slat shelfing things. We installed a double hanging wire on the one wall with the top curving around the far wall then shelfs under that little far side wall. Mr snick get the top rail, I get the bottom rail


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## Supe (Oct 5, 2021)

snickerd3 said:


> THose wire racks are that bad. We redid ours before we officailly moved in. before it had those metal slat shelfing things. We installed a double hanging wire on the one wall with the top curving around the far wall then shelfs under that little far side wall. Mr snick get the top rail, I get the bottom rail


What's dumb about, is that if they hadn't put the light fixture where it is, they could have moved the opening one stud to the left and we'd have no issues. I may see if I can find a workaround for that and just cut a new opening.


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## bwin12 (Oct 6, 2021)

leggo PE said:


> My goodness, I could never imagine being married to another engineer!


It's not that bad, but if we are being honest we both have degrees (her's is biological eng, mine is civil) and never really use them. She focused on food manufacturing operations, I focused on construction/project management. My wife's dad is a retired chemical engineer, my dad would have been an engineer if he could have stomached formal education past high school. 

But, we have 3 kids. Our middle one (the boy) is a lock to be an engineer. I think the youngest daughter will consider it. I think there is no chance the oldest will even consider engineering. It's interesting to watch them grow, learn, find interests and focus on particular aspects of life around them even at 8 to 2 years old.


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## bwin12 (Oct 6, 2021)

Supe said:


> What's dumb about, is that if they hadn't put the light fixture where it is, they could have moved the opening one stud to the left and we'd have no issues. I may see if I can find a workaround for that and just cut a new opening.


This is what happens. After we committed (ripped everything including the carpet out of the closet) she "redesigned" and next thing I know I'm looking at tearing up subfloor and drywall to relocate/add an outlet. 

Even switching out wire racks for 1/2" or 3/4" MDF with brackets or MDF mounts makes the closet look more distinguished.


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## pbrme (Oct 7, 2021)

Supe said:


> I may see if I can find a workaround for that and just cut a new opening.


Full send.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 20, 2022)

Let’s talk sump pumps and check valves. Does it matter where the check valve goes? Some places says 2-3’ above the floor others say right at the pump.

Time for a replacement and I want to upgrade the janky discharge piping the idiot previous owner did. I want to 45 over to the wall so the PVC can be anchored to something. Would it be better to have the 2 check valves (primary pump and battery backup) up on the wall or down at the crock similar to this…


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## blybrook PE (Feb 20, 2022)

If your running two pumps, you'll want the check valves closer to the pump so you don't short circuit the drain line and pump the water through the second pump. 

The built in check valves that I've seen on pumps recently aren't that great and tend to bypass with too much head pressure.


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## kevo_55 (Feb 20, 2022)

I've got one of those Barracuda sump pump setups. 

It's pretty slick but you'll need a deep cycle battery for it. I bought a 100 amp hour ones and that sucker is heavy.

You'll only need one check valve for water going out. They already have a check valve in the backup DC sump pump.

Just make sure you get a real good check valve. Not one made up completely of plastic.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 20, 2022)

So, a little more background. I think the tether switch on the old pump is the problem. The pump will work but you’ve gotta shake the little “ball” on the tether to get it to start even if it’s floating straight up. I’ve already got a backup…that’s what’s keeping things under control at the moment…although the battery had crapped out so the battery out of the boat is currently keeping it going. Not ideal, but it has to do while I see if the old battery can be saved.

Currently there are two discharges with two check valves, one from each pump, and then they meet up and it goes out as one pipe. Trying to decide if I want to do it the same way or DIY the dual setup with the new pump and the existing backup. If it’d fit under the lid, I could pull the backup out and build the dual setup in the garage and drop it in as a unit.

Keeping the check valves makes sense because you’re reducing the amount of water bing held in the pipe so it’s less effort for the pump every time it runs. On the other hand, all the water under the check valve is going to end up back in the sump when it’s done. Keeping everything together like the Barracuda would probably be easier if I could put it together and then drop it in, but working on it in the future would probably be more of a PITA.


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## jeb6294 (Feb 20, 2022)

This is the current setup. The PVC has no support so it’s really wobbly.


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## kevo_55 (Feb 20, 2022)

You need some support on that PVC. My old sump pump was just a 1/3 hp and it would move a bit when it was working. My current setup is a 1/2 hp for the AC main sump. Before, it would really move when it pumped. So much I would need to tighten the check valve every now and then.

Is that concrete or masonry wall? Can you use some tapcons to fasten a 2x4 ledger for some structure to attach to?


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## jeb6294 (Feb 20, 2022)

TBH, I can’t remember what the current pump is, but those pipes have gotta go. However I do it, pipe will 45 over to the wall and I’ll add some wood to the wall to make it easy to strap the pipe and it’ll give me an excuse to use the powder hammer…so loud…so fun. 

Ran to Harbor Freight and got a new pump so I could use this weekend's coupon. New pump is 1/2-hp. A little pissed because the picture online makes it look like it’s got one of those separate switches…cord comes from the switch on the pump and plugs in and then the pump plugs into the switch’s outlet…to make it easy to replace the switch if needed but when I opened the box the switch is part of the pump like most of them are nowadays. Has really good reviews though so we’ll see.

Saw this check valve at HD that screws right into the pump. Would make it really easy to hook the two pumps up together with one discharge coming from the sump like the Barracuda.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 2, 2022)

As luck would have it, we were going out of town right after our sump pump issues started. We'd been getting so much rain that I couldn't work on it at all before we left, but I was able to verify that the backup was able to keep things under control with the "boat battery bandaid". Also had a neighbor kid coming over to feed the cats and had him checking just to make sure we weren't getting a lake.

Back and no rain for the next few days. Got the first part done...my homemade Barracuda main/backup setup...so there'll only be one pipe coming from the sump and the whole thing can be disconnected and removed for future repairs. Now on to discharge piping.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 3, 2022)

I always use slip fittings…anyone done any plumbing work with threaded PVC fittings?

I added a valve so I could disconnect the sump pumps without getting a pipe full of bilge water dumped on me. I accidentally glued the ball valve in the first one so I got a threaded one instead and it’s leaking. I saw something that said not to use Teflon tape so I didn’t, but now I’m seeing stuff that says to use it. Will that solve the leaking or should I just go back to a slip fitting and be more careful with the cement?


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## Supe (Mar 4, 2022)

Used them on my parents pool filter for years without issues. You are supposed to use a PVC thread sealant (non-hardening dope), not teflon tape, and don't overtighten.


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## pbrme (Mar 4, 2022)

jeb6294 said:


> ...I saw something that said not to use Teflon tape so I didn’t, but now I’m seeing stuff that says to use it. Will that solve the leaking or should I just go back to a slip fitting and be more careful with the cement?


I use teflon tape per my Dad's instruction (he worked in the City parks dept. for over 20yrs) and he routinely serviced all of the sprinkler systems. You can also glue the valves to the stand pipes, and put a union on the lower end. I would go this route if it was me.


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## jeb6294 (Mar 4, 2022)

Finito…. I ended up using tape just because I already had some and didn’t want to make (another) trip to HD. From what I read, tape is fine, you just have to make sure you don’t over-torque and crack the fitting. Seems to have fixed the leaks too.

Just need to hook up the backup pump. It’s in there, but I want to wait until we get the boat out of storage. I was using the boat’s main battery as a bandaid but that’s not good for it. The boat also had a trolling motor that we’ll never use so it’s got a deep cycle battery as well. I want to see if that’ll work before I drop $100 to get a new battery.


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## pbrme (Mar 4, 2022)

^Nice work. Are you going to mount some skinny strut on the wall and shelf the new battery backup?


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## jeb6294 (Mar 4, 2022)

pbrme said:


> ^Nice work. Are you going to mount some skinny strut on the wall and shelf the new battery backup?


Not sure I’ll be that fancy. It’s an old school sump pit…concrete cast when they poured the basement…so the concrete lip sticks up about two inches. There’s just enough room for the battery box to fit between the wall and the sump pit so I might put it back there, but bind up the cords/wires to clean it up a little.

It’s surprising how much it feels like that corner has opened up now that there aren’t two pipes in the middle of the room.


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## bwin12 (Mar 7, 2022)

Are you concerned you will trip the breaker if the freezer and pump happen to start at the same time?


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## jeb6294 (Mar 7, 2022)

Nope...I was able to check the specs before I got the pump. There's also a dehumidifier in there. Even if the freezer happens to start up when the sump pump and dehumidifier are running, it's still under 15amps. One of the reasons I got this pump. I wasn't crazy about the amount of plastic in it, but the heavier duty cast one they had drew a lot more power and would have been no bueno.


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## bwin12 (Jul 22, 2022)

Informal poll on what is a better option: 

A- buy a primary residence in this market
B- rent a comparable house for a year at a cost of $36-$48k and buy in a year

For every article I read that says home prices won't tank I find another one that says everything will tank soon.


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## Sparky (Jul 26, 2022)

I have a son-in-law that thinks he's starting to see the beginnings of a turn down. He and daughter are having a house built and renting at this time.
In this market they have tried4 or 5 times for a large house. They have 8 about to be 9 children so really need a large house. But in this housing market at this time a house listed for $530,000 may end up going for over $600 due to shortage of homes. 

For your question. Can you not touch your down payment money for a new home if you rent for a year? If the down payment money is used, then you may miss the chance to buy. 

Good luck on whatever you decide to do.


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