# The Automotive Thread



## envirotex

So as to not continue to monopolize the Random Thoughts thread, I opened this thread for car talk...or what ever you have that has a motor.


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## humner

1969 Plymouth Roadrunner clone. 318 engine. Have the 383 hood on it, may someday put one under it.


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## Dexman PE PMP

I hate cars.

Especially this one:

2010 Camaro SS/RS. 6.2L LS3 V8 with a 6spd manual transmission putting out 425hp at the crank. I made my own custom "Bumble Bee" with custom stripes, powdercoated rims, blacked out emblems (full chrome delete), tinted windows and custom painted bowties. For my birthday after I got the car, my wife even got me the mini disco ball and "Bee-otch" airfreshener to hang from the mirror. Mechanically, it's basically stock except for a cold-air intake, but I would like to replace the exhaust and get an ECU "tune" to try to get it closer to 450hp.







A group pic of the club I'm in (mine is facing left at the top of the "O". (CCOTR = Camaro Club of the Rockies) Picture was taken at Bandemere Raceway on the west side of Denver (home of the Mopar Mile-High Nationals, for the drag racing fans out there).


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## Master slacker

1996 Chevy Impala SS. Haven't had any money to throw at it in some time now. However, it currently sits with stock 350, 1.6 RR roller rockers with valve springs, CAI, Clear Image Tri-Y headers, Summit Turbo mufflers, a little bumpity-bump stereo, and 78k miles on the clock.


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## knight1fox3

Do motorcycles count? ;-)

2006 gixxer sixxer. After-market Shogun crash kit, Puig fender eliminator and windshield mod, and Corbin seat. Mod to air intake and fuel injection system. 6-speed, constant mesh with a slipper clutch, 110HP at 13000 rpm. Anyone care to race? 

EDIT: added pic


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## Master slacker

I'll race you in an autocross during the rain.


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## Dexman PE PMP

knight1fox3 said:


> Do motorcycles count? ;-)
> 
> 2006 gixxer sixxer. After-market Shogun crash kit, Puig fender eliminator and windshield mod, and Corbin seat. Mod to air intake and fuel injection system. 6-speed, constant mesh with a slipper clutch, 110HP at 13000 rpm. Anyone care to race?


I would offer to race in the snow, but in that case we would both end up ditching our rides and just duking it out on foot...


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## Flyer_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Do motorcycles count? ;-)
> 
> 2006 gixxer sixxer. After-market Shogun crash kit, Puig fender eliminator and windshield mod, and Corbin seat. Mod to air intake and fuel injection system. 6-speed, constant mesh with a slipper clutch, 110HP at 13000 rpm. Anyone care to race?


Do I get to pick the start and end points?


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## knight1fox3

^ LOL!


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## engineergurl

I think this will be my one and only post here... but I don't think the engine in the cherokee will ever die. there we go. All I know is that it is an inline 6 and has nearly 200,000 miles on it. The check engine light has been on for a year, I'm leaking transmission fluid, driving on used tires, and still owe another 6 months of payments on it. I have a love hate relationship with that dang thing. It hates me, I hate it, but it loves me because I feed it, and I love it because it gets me places.


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## Road Guy

Those online 6's were a great engine, I think the reason they stopped making them was because they lasted too long!

I had 260K miles on one in my 94 jeep wrangler, everything else had died over the course of 18 years but the engine was going strong when I sold it 6 years ago....

On my current jeep I need to replace the fuel pump, would be easy but it's inside the gas tank, is there anything tricky about dropping the gas tank you think?

Probably the most difficult thing I have done myself was to change out an oil pan.. And that wasn't really difficult, just time consuming and a pain in the ass to be laying on your back under a car all day....


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## Supe

Test drove the Catalina last night. Shifted well, stopped (eventually), hell, even the speedo worked in the thing. Only issue is apparently the alternator wiring is hosed up (the alternator itself is new-ish). Not exactly quick by any means, but even that smogger 400 2bbl got the thing rolling at a reasonable pace. Picking it up on Saturday.


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## humner

engineergurl said:


> I think this will be my one and only post here... but I don't think the engine in the cherokee will ever die. there we go. All I know is that it is an inline 6 and has nearly 200,000 miles on it. The check engine light has been on for a year, I'm leaking transmission fluid, driving on used tires, and still owe another 6 months of payments on it. I have a love hate relationship with that dang thing. It hates me, I hate it, but it loves me because I feed it, and I love it because it gets me places.


Much like the old 225 Dodge slant 6 engines. The car would rot out before the engine died.


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## Capt Worley PE

humner said:


> Much like the old 225 Dodge slant 6 engines. The car would rot out before the engine died.


The ole leaning tower of power.

I'm always kicking around the idea of a 'yard truck' for various and sundry dirty hauling jobs. I've been fixated on a stepside regular cab Ranger, but lately have been considering a Jeep Cherokee. They look like appealing vehicles. What are the best years/features to look for?


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## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> is there anything tricky about dropping the gas tank you think?


Don't use a lighter to try to see inside the tank. Seriously, people have done this.

I don't have any vehicles worth bragging about, although my driveway and garage are full now. . . 1996 Ford Bronco, 1997 Jeep Cherokee, 2006 Chevy Aveo, 1979 Yamaha XS750. . . four vehicles for one person is a bit much, especially considering I often ride my bicycle to work.


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## humner

Capt Worley PE said:


> humner said:
> 
> 
> 
> Much like the old 225 Dodge slant 6 engines. The car would rot out before the engine died.
> 
> 
> 
> The ole leaning tower of power.
> 
> I'm always kicking around the idea of a 'yard truck' for various and sundry dirty hauling jobs. I've been fixated on a stepside regular cab Ranger, but lately have been considering a Jeep Cherokee. They look like appealing vehicles. What are the best years/features to look for?
Click to expand...

I would personally like one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vintage-1950-Dodge-Power-Wagon-/280878776222?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&amp;hash=item4165adff9e

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1950-dodge-powerwagon-cummins-rat-rod-/320908562499?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&amp;hash=item4ab7a41043

they can go just about anywhere and around the yard, you can't beat them


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## Capt Worley PE

Ebay is blocked...what are they?


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## Dexman PE PMP

A pair of 1950 Dodge Power Wagon trucks


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## Flyer_PE

^'50s ex-military Power Wagons

Edit: Dex beat me to it.


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## Capt Worley PE

Power Wagons are too big. That's why I was going Ranger or Cherokee.


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## Dexman PE PMP

When I was looking for a 4x4 to get me through the snow last fall, one the vehicles I was looking for was a Cherokee. Unfortunately due to the numerous off-road clubs and the huge demand for 4wd here in CO, I couldn't find one with less than 200k miles for under $3500 that could be considered safe to get on the highway with kids in the back seat.


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## engineergurl

I paid $10,000 for my 2002 cherokee last year and am slowly approaching the 200k...


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## mudpuppy

^Yours is a grand cherokee. Totally different vehicle.

Capn, I have a 1996 Ford Bronco I'll sell you for cheap!

Dex, I got my '97 Cherokee Country with 85000 miles on it for $4500 from my dad in AZ. I think it was a reasonable deal.


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## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> Capn, I have a 1996 Ford Bronco I'll sell you for cheap!


Yeah, but driving it back down here would double the purchase price in fuel alone. Plus, I know you guys salt the roads like they're a large order of fries.

I ddi think about Broncos, they're cheap, but I'm looking for something a tad smaller and less fuelish.


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## humner

yes, the power wagons are big, but they can pull you jeep sideways, lol. The one has a hoist on the front end, think of the fun you can have with that


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## Dexman PE PMP

I loved my '96 Bronco. Bought it for $2k, sold it for $3k only 6 months later. Granted it had 230k miles and cost over $100 to fill the damn tank...


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## mudpuppy

Capt Worley PE said:


> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Capn, I have a 1996 Ford Bronco I'll sell you for cheap!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but driving it back down here would double the purchase price in fuel alone. Plus, I know you guys salt the roads like they're a large order of fries. I ddi think about Broncos, they're cheap, but I'm looking for something a tad smaller and less fuelish.
Click to expand...

You're correct on all counts. I can get about 15 mpg on the highway, maybe 10 around town. And it is quite rusty.


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## engineergurl

mudpuppy said:


> ^Yours is a grand cherokee. Totally different vehicle.
> 
> Capn, I have a 1996 Ford Bronco I'll sell you for cheap!
> 
> Dex, I got my '97 Cherokee Country with 85000 miles on it for $4500 from my dad in AZ. I think it was a reasonable deal.


I apologize all high and mighty owner of awesome vehicles, but I'm lazy and didn't feel like typing it out... if you want to get technical on me, it is a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4...

now that we have that established, I was actually trying to just point out the price and mileage


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## Dexman PE PMP

What color is it?


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## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Capn, I have a 1996 Ford Bronco I'll sell you for cheap!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but driving it back down here would double the purchase price in fuel alone. Plus, I know you guys salt the roads like they're a large order of fries. I ddi think about Broncos, they're cheap, but I'm looking for something a tad smaller and less fuelish.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You're correct on all counts. I can get about 15 mpg on the highway, maybe 10 around town. And it is quite rusty.
Click to expand...

My parents had a 78 Suburban with a 454. It got 14 mpg no matter what.


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## Capt Worley PE

humner said:


> yes, the power wagons are big, but they can pull you jeep sideways, lol. The one has a hoist on the front end, think of the fun you can have with that


When I look at solutions, I look at all angles. I'd take a look at a Subaru Brat if the opportunity presented itself.


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## envirotex

Capt Worley PE said:


> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Capn, I have a 1996 Ford Bronco I'll sell you for cheap!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, but driving it back down here would double the purchase price in fuel alone. Plus, I know you guys salt the roads like they're a large order of fries.
> 
> I ddi think about Broncos, they're cheap, but I'm looking for something a tad smaller and less fuelish.
Click to expand...

Toyota Land Cruiser...FJ6x (pre-1989) or FJ40 if you can find a cheap one...They run forever with little maintenance and have 4WD. Even high mileage would be OK for the type of use that you're talking about...


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## Capt Worley PE

Land Cruisers bring silly money here. I've seen ones that look like they barely survived Taliban attacks bring a cool 6 grand. I don't get it, myself, but there you are.

Yoda pickups from the eighties are the same way.


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## jeb6294

We got one of the new Explorers a month or so before I left to come back over here. Our old Explorer was pushing 105k and we'd heard all kinds of stories about the tranny going at ~90k so we figured we'd replace it before I left so I wouldn't have to worry about any car problems while I was gone.

We ended up with a totally loaded Limited. The only option we didn't get was the Ecoboost engine. I'd read too many reviews that it wasn't enough power for the car and the difference in mileage wasn't worth the extra $1k. The inside looks like the space shuttle...not a button in sight and the only gauge is the speedometer. Everything in there is voice or touch screen controlled. The other nice thing about getting it just before I left is that, as much as it pained me to pay that much for a car, I'm making enough while I'm here that it should be ours free and clear by the time I get home.

(not ours but same thing)


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## Supe

Got the Catalina yesterday, what an ordeal.

Thing _barely_ fit on my trailer. Got it up to its temporary resting place, and it was so heavy, the slight downward angle of the trailer was enough for it to crush the trailer jack (folded it over on itself). Got that out, put a jackstand under it, need to get a replacement jack.

Then, the stupid air ride compressor wouldn't kick on (probably a loose wire on the switch, or a blown fuse). So, I couldn't figure out how to roll the window up, because the car wouldn't raise high enough to clear the trailer fender when I opened the door. Ended up having to have junior crawl in, roll up the window, and pull her out through the half-glass in back, and will probably have to get a racing jack under half the car next week to get it high enough to open the door.

Off to a great start!


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## MA_PE

^some times kids come in handy.


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## engineergurl

I always pictured your jr as a boy... hmmmm, maybe I should pay more attention... have fun with it!


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## Road Guy

as i am emberassed to admit my wife has a prius (she bought it) but for fun we were putting our vehicles in Kelly Blue Book..

I also have a 2005 Dodge Durango, 5.0 L, V8, tow package, etc.. valued at $5000 on KBB

Her 2005 Toyota Prius 1.5L Engine, NO OPTIONS... $14,000 ????

I re ran it several times but shit!!! Only difference is my durango has 135K miles and she has 45K miles, but on a V8, thats not that many miles...

I dont know if it would sell for that but we are seriousl thinking about giving it a try!!!


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## engineergurl

want me to put that on the used car lot here? bet you could get more than listing it elsewhere...


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## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> I re ran it several times but shit!!! Only difference is my durango has 135K miles and she has 45K miles, but on a V8, thats not that many miles...


There is another difference.

One is a Dodge, the other is a Toyota. That right there explains some of the difference. Chrysler products have notoriously low resale value.


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## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I re ran it several times but shit!!! Only difference is my durango has 135K miles and she has 45K miles, but on a V8, thats not that many miles...
> 
> 
> 
> There is another difference.
> 
> One is a Dodge, the other is a Toyota. That right there explains some of the difference. Chrysler products have notoriously low resale value.
Click to expand...

For good reason. And this is coming from a diehard Mopar fan that has had a 69 Charger and a 91 Shadow Turbo.

I'd love to pick up a used Charger, but the realist in me says, "You'll be sorry..."


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## Supe

engineergurl said:


> I always pictured your jr as a boy... hmmmm, maybe I should pay more attention... have fun with it!


Definitely a she. And since this is the automotive thread, here she is at 3 (can't believe this was nearly three years ago already) sitting in the seat of a sportsman dragster.


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## Road Guy

Brakes, Brakes, Brakes...

So I need new front brake pads on my 2005 Dodge Durango, and I really dont want to pay the $300 to the shop for $45 worth of parts..

I've been watching videos and reading alot about changing them yourself, and it almost looks to easy? Am I missing something?

Only thing that appears tricky is draining the brake fluid?

Mrs. RG says I should just pay the money, but I just cant stand to pay them fools anymore.... I mean I have a lot of respect for Automitive Mechanics, but lets face it, they probably are not engineers....


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## Master slacker

Besides the basic hand tools, all you need for brake pad replacement are


BIG ASS C-clamp (to force the pistons into the caliper)

wire (to keep caliper from hanging by brake line)

new pads


I've never had to drain brake fluid, but I have topped off after pad replacement. YMMV.


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## blybrook PE

When you use the c clamp, be sure to use the OLD pad to transfer the load across the piston equally, you want to ensure that it goes in straight.

Pads are a sinch to change, I've never had to drain fluid or bleed the system (unless I changed the caliper).

You may end up pulling the hubs to get the rotors turned. Be sure to repack the bearings if you go this route. Pads alone are easy, getting rotors and bearings done can be tricky.

Edit - $300 isn't bad if it includes turning the rotors as well. Pads are cheap, its the other parts that get expensive quick.


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## Supe

My $.02 on turning rotors - don't bother. Unless new rotors are astronomical in price, turned rotors have always caused more problems and warped faster to offset the cost savings any time I've ever used them.


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## Master slacker

blybrook PE said:


> When you use the c clamp, be sure to use the OLD pad to transfer the load across the piston equally, you want to ensure that it goes in straight.


To add to this, don't pull the caliper until the C-clamp is used to move the pads.


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## MA_PE

Supe said:


> My $.02 on turning rotors - don't bother. Unless new rotors are astronomical in price, turned rotors have always caused more problems and warped faster to offset the cost savings any time I've ever used them.


seems on the new cars, there's not much to turn anyway. They thin them out for better heat dispersion so when its time to do brakes you might as well just install new rotors.


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## engineergurl

I've done it RG (well, with assistance), I'm sure you can handle it.


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## Flyer_PE

The pads are pretty easy. As others have said though, if you end up doing rotors, you're probably better off just replacing them rather than having them turned. They don't provide much extra metal these days.


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## Road Guy

I'm gonna try and squeeze this in this weekend. Looking forward to it, I like doing this type of stuff I just don't have that much practice!

Fixed the washer tonight, part finally came in the mail, $25 part keeps my 16 year old Magyar going! I should probably replace the hoses while I still have it take apart..

Got the cable on the lawnmower to also fix, I'm glad my dad encouraged me to be my own repair man, those two things alone new would be $1300 bucks to replace...


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## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ A Chilton's or Haynes repair manual makes any auto repair job super easy. My brother and I replaced the full suspension system on my parents' Pathfinder one afternoon with the help of one of said manuals.


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## Capt Worley PE

Road Guy said:


> Fixed the washer tonight, part finally came in the mail, $25 part keeps my 16 year old Magyar going! I should probably replace the hoses while I still have it take apart..


By all means replace the washer hoses. That's the number one source of water damage in a home.


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## humner

Capt Worley PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed the washer tonight, part finally came in the mail, $25 part keeps my 16 year old Magyar going! I should probably replace the hoses while I still have it take apart..
> 
> 
> 
> By all means replace the washer hoses. That's the number one source of water damage in a home.
Click to expand...

at least the washers for the hoses. they break down after a while and just the wrong twist on one and they are cracked.


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## pbrme

Need to do a break job on my truck this weekend. I've got a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 and their starting to grind. I've been Googlin' for replacement parts/suggestions and thought I'd try here as well. Looking for any experience, or thoughts. I would like to upgrade to heavy duty rotors, oversized calipers etc.


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## blybrook PE

PBR,

Take a look at ramforumz.com for additional ideas / parts list as that forum is more for the 1500 crowd. Take a look here and you can get the full manufacturers service manual (~400MB); its for the 2008 year, but should have plenty of information for your rig. I downloaded it for my '12 3500; but there's very few things that line up.

With the right service manual and some basic hand tools, the job is very easy to do. When you get into the 4x4's, you'll typically need a few specialty sockets to get the hubs apart; thankfully you can usually rent them from Autozone and the like on a day / day basis.


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## pbrme

Thanks for the Intel. Mine's a 4x4, and I've got the Chiltons.


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## pbrme

Got the brakes done this weekend. Went with the OEM replacement parts for $250, and now have a handfull of new tools for a $400 bill at harbor freight. Front brakes = no problem. New rotors and pads, some grease.. yada, had them replaced in 3 hours.

Rear, were a little more effort. The rear rotors were rust welded on, two hours of PB Blaster and smacking couldn't even dislodge them. Found a video showing a trick to use a jacking bolt thru the caliper bracket mounting holes. Tighten it down, the rotor starts to come off, whack the same side with the dead blow and "Pop" off came the rotor. Dropped them off to get cut on Sunday and bbq'd the rest of the afternoon. Started in on reassembly yesterday, and had everything back together after a couple hours. One additional issue, I snapped one of the 8mm caliper mounting bolts and had to bike down to the parts store. Gave me an excuse to pull in for a pit stop at the local watering hole.


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## Supe

On the hunt for a new daily driver, Saturn I have is too small and the seats wreak havoc on my back. There is a 2008 Bullitt Mustang at the local dealership with only 12k miles on it for $25k that I'm looking at. Also looking for used luxury sedans, but it's hard finding a) ones with a manual trans, or B) ones with an auto and a crap-ton of power in my price bracket. REALLY want an STS-V but they sure are hard to find.


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## Road Guy

I literally just finished doing the front brakes on my Durango... Start time was 7:00, one trip to home dept and dealing with kids and a neighbor that came over to watch.... $50 worth of parts, luckily I had a half inch socket and somehow had the 20mm socket to remove the "thing" and a big c clamp that I didn't know I had..

Darkness wasn't fun, had to find all my work lights... Took me a while to get the pads to line up and a few times to get it right the first time I reinstalled the pad assembly(?). Second set wasn't do bad... I think next time I may just pay the money and have it done during work!

I drove around the block, seemed to work? Any othe clues to check to make sure I did it right?


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## Supe

Try doing a couple panic stops to see if you can make them lock up/ABS kick in.


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## Capt Worley PE

Do a few 0-60-0 runs?


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## Flyer_PE

A couple of hard stops and check that it's not pulling to one side or the other.


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## pbrme

^ This


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## humner

Next time, jack up the whole front or rear of vehicle, whichever you are changing the brakes on. Remove both wheels. When doing the brakes, do one at a time and now you have a template to look at in real time as to how the brakes are supposed to look. I have done many brake jobs, have found it the best way to keep from making mistakes. When removing brake drums and they are rusted in place around the spindle, spray the heck out of them with a good rust buster. Let them sit and then spray again. Search for a small hole in the flat face of brake drum. This is a threaded hole that you can put a bolt into. Install bolt and set it snug then ring the drum lightly with a hammer. Should pop off then. If not, spray some more, let it sit and then tighten the bolt more and ring the drum again.


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## knight1fox3

Should I buy this?







'65 GTO, 4-speed, had a different larger engine put in it (400 cu in.) Asking $17k, which I've been told is a little high for a car with a non-original engine. Owner still has the original motor and all the corresponding paperwork.


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## Dexman PE PMP

How sound is the body &amp; frame? It's amazing how much paint will cover-up if the body work was done poorly and just covered with bondo.


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## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> How sound is the body &amp; frame? It's amazing how much paint will cover-up if the body work was done poorly and just covered with bondo.


The exterior looks pretty solid and seems to be in good condition. No bonod areas that I can tell.


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## Capt Worley PE

MA is the Poncho guy around here. Seems pricey to me.


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## Master slacker

I wouldn't pay that much for the car. Unless the 47 year old car has been in a garage its whole life, I'd bet that if the owner (at the time) replaced the engine, he would have done a little cosmetic magic as well.


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## blybrook PE

You need to really look at body panels from underneath. A good paint shop can blend in the bondo areas and you'd never know until it was too late. Look through any access panel / hole that you can get to with a flashlight.

17k seems high, but with all the original paperwork and IF he is including the motor and all repair receipts; it may be worth it. It'd be more of a show car than a Daily Driver (to me anyway).

Good luck with the purchase if you go through with it.


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## Master slacker

If the car looks good - as in it was a little project for someone - ask for some pictures of the build up. If he can't supply any or any showing body work at all, tell him to go pound sand. He's hiding something. Any good car guy who performs a car project takes pictures and is willing to share their work.


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## Rockettt

those ol goats are worth a few bucks. If its not all dough and underside is clean...i mean clean as in like new then 17k would be all day long. especially for a 4 speed.

Recent years the Matching Numbers gig hasnt mattered quite as much as years past. some cars yes...but many no. People nowadays want to drive and use the cars. Sometimes a transplant motor hurts and sometimes it even helps for the right build. but as in anything, need the right buyer too.

Nice car though even though im a mopar fanatic. those GTO's always get my attention.


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## Capt Worley PE

You can get some pretty serious late model machinery for 17K that will run rings around that old goat.

And be easier to live with.


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## roadwreck

Didn't notice this thread until now, you guys started it while I was on vacation



Road Guy said:


> I literally just finished doing the front brakes on my Durango


I replaced my brakes pads and rotors a few months ago. I discovered that the shop that turned the rotors last time stripped the screws that hold the rotors in place when the wheels are off. This hiccup resulted in a trip to NAPA, where they were unable to identify the part, so then I made a trip to the dealership where I was told by the tech (who vomited in a trashcan while we were there, but that's a different story) that they didn't have the part in stock and we "didn't need them". So a trip back home to drill out the screws and a few hours later the brakes are replaced. I should quit doing car repairs, nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

I don't have the garage space at home to keep any fun motorized toys, but this one is in the family. It belonged to my grandmother, who bought it in the 70's. She never drove it much anyway (has 60k miles on it) and had gotten to the point where she didn't need to be driving at all. She planned on selling it, but my parents opted to bring it across the pond instead. It's a little out of place here in the south and it gets plenty of attention when it does come out.


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## Road Guy

I dont understand what they charge your for when they say turn the rotors? Maybe if they are grooved or damaged but if the pads still have 25% or more life on them I dont see where they could get damaged. I think its just another ploy for them to invade your wallet!]

&amp; you should drive that car at least once a week!


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## envirotex

$17K is not an unheard of price for a GTO...but I would definitely do your due diligence.


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## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> Should I buy this?
> 
> '65 GTO, 4-speed, had a different larger engine put in it (400 cu in.) Asking $17k, which I've been told is a little high for a car with a non-original engine. Owner still has the original motor and all the corresponding paperwork.


An early 4 speed car in good shape will fetch that price tag.

Managed to pull the trans from the Mazda yesterday in about 3 hours or so with minimal surprises. Glad I did, as the previous owner a) left out a flywheel bolt, B) finger tightened about everything else, INCLUDING driveshaft bolts, some of the bellhousing bolts, and one of the motor mounts, and c) completely half-assed some of the stuff under there. Slave cylinder was clearly out of alignment with the clutch fork, and the rod was a rounded off grade 8 bolt. Pressure plate bolt was missing, which I think accounted for slight wear difference around the outside of the clutch disc. Nothing else jumped out at me as the cause for binding badly (throwout bearing looked fine, clutch fork seemed ok), so hopefully replacing and realigning the slave with the correct pushrod, and a new lighter clutch and pressure plate will take care of the issue.


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## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> I dont understand what they charge your for when they say turn the rotors? Maybe if they are grooved or damaged but if the pads still have 25% or more life on them I dont see where they could get damaged. I think its just another ploy for them to invade your wallet!]


If you don't get them turned they can wear unevenly and cause some issues. Mine were in need of replacing so I hadn't bothered to get them turned in a while. A lip on the edge of the rotor had formed (where the brake pad didn't contact the rotor). This made getting the caliper assembly and old brake pads a bitch to get off when I did replace them. This was a minor nuisance in comparison to the rotor screws of course.


----------



## knight1fox3

Thanks for the replies all.



Capt Worley PE said:


> You can get some pretty serious late model machinery for 17K that will run rings around that old goat.
> 
> And be easier to live with.


Any suggestions or deals you've seen?



envirotex said:


> $17K is not an unheard of price for a GTO...but I would definitely do your due diligence.


Certainly. I might offer him $15k after I take it for a test drive with one of my "car buddies".


----------



## Capt Worley PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Thanks for the replies all.
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can get some pretty serious late model machinery for 17K that will run rings around that old goat.
> 
> And be easier to live with.
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions or deals you've seen?
Click to expand...

C5 'vettes, SN95 blown Cobras, LT4 Impalas (even though FWD...hell of a performance bargain), 2005-2007 Mustang GTs, SVT Lightnings, 2005-2007 Hemi LX bods...

I really used to be into the muscle cars, but that was before the modern stuff started bulking up on HP. Now I just think they are overpriced old cars.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

roadwreck said:


> (who vomited in a trashcan while we were there, but that's a different story)


That sounds like the more interesting story.


----------



## Road Guy

RW:

I get that, but the only real work involved is taking off the tire, un bolting the brake caliper and then "turning" the rotor and putting it back on...

hardest part of that is taking the tire off and on..

Not sure why we all pay these stealerships fatty money to do such a simple job!


----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> Not sure why we all pay these stealerships fatty money to do such a simple job!


Yea, I know what you mean. That's what I always tell myself when I'm starting a job, once I've been working on it for three times longer then it should have taken I swear I'm never working on my own car again...

...a few weeks later I forget all about that and start the whole process over. :screwloose:


----------



## Rockettt

overpriced old cars? haha your lucky I like healthy conversation!

I agree with the new HP. im still tryin to hang with a ford lightning and a nice 6.0L gto....... which is why my BDS Blower manifold just came in the mail this morning actually. Kind of hard to concentrate with it sitting next to my keyboard. Cmon over to the strip and ill show you how a 72 dart will overcome new HP


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> C5 'vettes, SN95 blown Cobras, *LT4 Impalas (even though FWD...hell of a performance bargain)*, 2005-2007 Mustang GTs, SVT Lightnings, 2005-2007 Hemi LX bods...
> 
> I really used to be into the muscle cars, but that was before the modern stuff started bulking up on HP. Now I just think they are overpriced old cars.


No such thing as an LT4 Impala unless you mean the LS4 - 5.3L FWD version. Don't even bother with these dogs. Seriously. It's a waste. For the same money, if not less, you could get a 94-96 with a shot engine and throw in a 6.0L engine from a truck (with all applicable go fast goodies) backed by a T56 manual. For a whole lot less, you could slap on a AI heads / cam combo for about 400 RWHP. The LT1 engines, though 2-bolt mains, are solid.


----------



## Rockettt

ricers get 400rwhp nowadays. what ever happened to 6-700 ?

I wanna go fast daddy! If your not winning your losing! haha.

though i did race a bike about a month ago. i barked third and he popped up in a wheelie and spanked me haha and thats about 150rwhp.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> C5 'vettes, SN95 blown Cobras, *LT4 Impalas (even though FWD...hell of a performance bargain)*, 2005-2007 Mustang GTs, SVT Lightnings, 2005-2007 Hemi LX bods...
> 
> I really used to be into the muscle cars, but that was before the modern stuff started bulking up on HP. Now I just think they are overpriced old cars.
> 
> 
> 
> No such thing as an LT4 Impala unless you mean the LS4 - 5.3L FWD version. Don't even bother with these dogs. Seriously. It's a waste. For the same money, if not less, you could get a 94-96 with a shot engine and throw in a 6.0L engine from a truck (with all applicable go fast goodies) backed by a T56 manual. For a whole lot less, you could slap on a AI heads / cam combo for about 400 RWHP. The LT1 engines, though 2-bolt mains, are solid.
Click to expand...

You're right, LS4.

They're pretty nice rides.

That does remind me, though, add 1993-1997 Z28s to the list. 98-02s have LS engines but are godawful ugly.


----------



## Rockettt

that LS2 with a set of LS3 heads and cam....thats a potent setup. throw the 6 speed behind it and lets just say i had a smile most of the ride....

the gm posi sucked though. had it out sideways and it kicked out to a one wheel peel.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

$15k would be enough to get my LS3 supercharged, as well as a few other upgrades to get my Camaro to close to 550rwhp...


----------



## Master slacker

My dream build currently is LQ9 block, L92 heads, L76 intake, and lumpy cam OR single turbo.


----------



## engineergurl

I would just like to have a car that doesn't have used tires, that I don't have to check the transmission fluid every other day, that the check engine light that isn't on and that isn't filled with ants and wasps right about now... oh what's that you say... yes ants and wasps...

POD storage containers are filling up the driveway, so little ole me parked the jeep on the front pine straw yesterday. Apparently, there was a can of soda in the cup holder and the ants were all over that thing... after spraying it like you wouldn't believe with bug killer, I started to get the air running so I wouldn't have any ants fly in my face once I tried to drive (can you tell this has happened to me before?)... so the jeep is running, I take the bag with the soda can up to the trash can and go back to get in it... there is a funny buzz about... not the normal loud noise the jeep makes (check engine light is on cause of a hole in the exahust system) but a higher pitched noise....

I am amazed at saying I didn't get stung. I was also thankful that when someone turned in a case of perfectly good wasp spray into the hazmat center, I picked some up and had some in each of the room of the house (hey, it is a good self defense and I only have one gun in the house right now).

I did finally get to the home depot to get moving dolly's and the grocery store to get food for my moving helpers after a bit...

sorry, thought you guys would laugh at the story... I know it doesn't have anything to do with the thread really, but it was my car...


----------



## EM_PS

Pretty sure I'm gonna pull the trigger on an '11 Explorer w/ 35K mi. on it. Any worries here? Must be this heat...


----------



## MA_PE

Knight: just saw this. I love ponchos and have a big fondness for goats. 17k ain't bad, but big money goats are all documented original cars. Otherwise, it's just a really cool old muscle car and value is set accordingly. If you aren't aware Pontiac is one of the few brands that offers a service called Pontiac Historic Services. If you provide a vin and ~$50 phs will send you a copy of the original dealer invoice for the car. You can tell the original color. Interior color, options, etc and get an idea of how much this car has been modified over the years. That said, as a nice driver muscle car 17k seems strong. For an all original restored goat it's low. You need to find where you are in between and how much you really like this car. I suspect people aren't beating down the doors to buy it so you when/if you want to sell it you would be in the same position. Looks cool to me.


----------



## jeb6294

EM_PS said:


> Pretty sure I'm gonna pull the trigger on an '11 Explorer w/ 35K mi. on it. Any worries here? Must be this heat...


We just got a '12 Limited in March. Figured I was coming back to the sandbox so better to get it before I left so 1) don't have to worry about our old Explorer taking a dump while I was gone, and B) even getting the Limited with all the options it should be paid for by Feb.

So far, it's been a pretty good car mechanically. The only issue we've had is with the Ford Sync stuff. Nothing too serious but if that one has the Sync in it then I would double check to make sure it has the latest update. I look at it like getting a new computer back when those were fairly new, you're gonna have some bugs that need to get worked out but it's nothing to lose any sleep over and Ford seems to be doing a pretty decent job of rolling out updates to fix stuff.


----------



## engineergurl

I can say this much... I had an 02 explorer sport trac for 6 years. A few things went wrong when I hit over 200,000 miles... mostly things with plastic gears like the windows and such. I would recommend them for safety though... I went into a ditch (more like a gullly) at about 55 mph... broke the frame and the front axel snapped and totaled the thing BUT I waked away with only some bruises and burns from the seat belt. I don't know about the newer models, but mine kept me safe in a wreck.


----------



## EM_PS

jeb6294 said:


> We just got a '12 Limited in March. Figured I was coming back to the sandbox so better to get it before I left so 1) don't have to worry about our old Explorer taking a dump while I was gone, and B) even getting the Limited with all the options it should be paid for by Feb.


This is a loaded XLT, just missing a few top options that the Limited has. Even preowned, w/ a decent trade-in, I'll be taking a wee bit longer on the payoff  ...

The Ford Sync / My touch was a little weird interface-wise on the test drive, but I think it will be pretty killer once I get familiar with it - my wife seemed to love it anyways.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Master slacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> C5 'vettes, SN95 blown Cobras, *LT4 Impalas (even though FWD...hell of a performance bargain)*, 2005-2007 Mustang GTs, SVT Lightnings, 2005-2007 Hemi LX bods...
> 
> I really used to be into the muscle cars, but that was before the modern stuff started bulking up on HP. Now I just think they are overpriced old cars.
> 
> 
> 
> No such thing as an LT4 Impala unless you mean the LS4 - 5.3L FWD version. Don't even bother with these dogs. Seriously. It's a waste. For the same money, if not less, you could get a 94-96 with a shot engine and throw in a 6.0L engine from a truck (with all applicable go fast goodies) backed by a T56 manual. For a whole lot less, you could slap on a AI heads / cam combo for about 400 RWHP. The LT1 engines, though 2-bolt mains, are solid.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You're right, LS4.
> 
> They're pretty nice rides.
> 
> That does remind me, though, add 1993-1997 Z28s to the list. 98-02s have LS engines but are godawful ugly.
Click to expand...

Oh, Mercury Marauders are pretty cool, too, if you can find one.


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> Oh, Mercury Marauders are pretty cool, too, if you can find one.


And believe torque is over rated...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

1995 impala SS 260 hp, 330 lb-ft torque

2003 Mercury Marauder 302 hp, 318 lb-ft torque

Sounds like sour grapes on the HP front from the LT1 camp.

;-)


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Knight: just saw this. I love ponchos and have a big fondness for goats. 17k ain't bad, but big money goats are all documented original cars. Otherwise, it's just a really cool old muscle car and value is set accordingly. If you aren't aware Pontiac is one of the few brands that offers a service called Pontiac Historic Services. If you provide a vin and ~$50 phs will send you a copy of the original dealer invoice for the car. You can tell the original color. Interior color, options, etc and get an idea of how much this car has been modified over the years. That said, as a nice driver muscle car 17k seems strong. For an all original restored goat it's low. You need to find where you are in between and how much you really like this car. I suspect people aren't beating down the doors to buy it so you when/if you want to sell it you would be in the same position. Looks cool to me.


Thanks for the reply and info MA. Much appreciated.


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> 1995 impala SS 260 hp, 330 lb-ft torque
> 
> 2003 Mercury Marauder 302 hp, 318 lb-ft torque
> 
> Sounds like sour grapes on the HP front from the LT1 camp.
> 
> ;-)


Truth be known:


The Imp's 330 ft-lbs were available at 2200 RPM (stump puller). The MM had 318 ft-lbs at *4250* RPM. Which one could burn through first gear and chirp 2nd while bone stock without loading the torque converter?  

1/4 miles were roughly the same despite newer technology of ~8 years and a 3.55 rear end (Imp had 3.08).

Imp came with 255 rubber all the way around (stock) and could fit 315's without notching the frame. MM came with 245's and you have to "be creative" to go beyond 265.

The Imp faded due to the Texas plant converting to truck production. The MM faded because of lack of sales.


HP sells cars. Torque wins races.


----------



## Supe

My starter motor makes more torque than both those cars.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1995 impala SS 260 hp, 330 lb-ft torque
> 
> 2003 Mercury Marauder 302 hp, 318 lb-ft torque
> 
> Sounds like sour grapes on the HP front from the LT1 camp.
> 
> ;-)
> 
> 
> 
> Truth be known:
> 
> 
> The Imp's 330 ft-lbs were available at 2200 RPM (stump puller). The MM had 318 ft-lbs at *4250* RPM. Which one could burn through first gear and chirp 2nd while bone stock without loading the torque converter?
> 
> 1/4 miles were roughly the same despite newer technology of ~8 years and a 3.55 rear end (Imp had 3.08).
> 
> Imp came with 255 rubber all the way around (stock) and could fit 315's without notching the frame. MM came with 245's and you have to "be creative" to go beyond 265.
> 
> The Imp faded due to the Texas plant converting to truck production. The MM faded because of lack of sales.
> 
> 
> HP sells cars. Torque wins races.
Click to expand...

Given the choice twixt the two, I'd go with the Mercury. I liked the looks a whole lot better than the Chevy.

Plus, my aunt had a whale (pre-LT1) that was such a gigantic load of poo that it forced my uncle, a life long Chevy man, to purchase his sole non-Chevy purchase ever (a Buick...which turned out to be an even bigger peice o' poo, so he ended up only buying Chevy trucks).

My parents have gone through three Panthers (TCs all) and they've been trouble free, except on bum air-ride compressor.

I'm past the point in my life where pure performance is the goal. Quick enough, comfortable, and reliable are my current hallmarks.

But, I reckon that's why there are so many choices out there.


----------



## Master slacker

I'll be quick to point out that neither the Imp nor the MM fall under the "pure performance" umbrella. They're just grandpa cars that could embarass most, if not all, non-muscle / sports cars and a few M/S, too of their days in red light racing. If I wanted a cookie-cutter performance car, I'd have gotten a Mustang or Camaro (sorry, Dex) and be like everyone else. Instead, I got something different. Almost every time I go fill up the tank, I get asked about it - interested in selling? how many miles? why don't you have twenty fo's on there? I'm cool with that.


----------



## Supe

Picked up a set of old Enkei mesh wheels with race rubber on them for $150 for the set, and a new Turbo II rear diff with a 4.11 gear for the RX7. Both will be instrumental in me making the September race date for this car. I also have a roll bar on order from S&amp;W race cars to install, and hopefully my Zoom clutch/pressure plate combo will be here later this week.

If I can get that sorted out, then that leaves rerouting of the fuel lines, moving a few items to a toggle switch, and a new seat/harness install as the only items left as a necessary minimum for me to be legal to race.


----------



## Rockettt

Now look at them numbers compared to the conservatively rated dual quad 4 speed positraction four ohhh nineeeeeeee. haha i held one the old pistons in my hand the other day when I was cleaning out. coffee can to say the least.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> I'll be quick to point out that neither the Imp nor the MM fall under the "pure performance" umbrella.


Tis true, but they make hella good long distance cruisers with a little punch in 'em.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Rockettt said:


> Now look at them numbers compared to the conservatively rated dual quad 4 speed positraction four ohhh nineeeeeeee. haha i held one the old pistons in my hand the other day when I was cleaning out. coffee can to say the least.


I always thought the Heron heads were really odd designs. The Lamborghini V8 in the Urraco/Silhouette/Jalpa used the same design.


----------



## snickerd3

Supe said:


> If I can get that sorted out, then that leaves rerouting of the fuel lines, moving a few items to a toggle switch, and a new seat/harness install as the only items left as a necessary minimum for me to be legal to race.


didn't think you were still racing with the house, girlfriend and kid monopolizing your time


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> Master slacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be quick to point out that neither the Imp nor the MM fall under the "pure performance" umbrella.
> 
> 
> 
> Tis true, but they make hella good long distance cruisers with a little punch in 'em.
Click to expand...

I may or may not have gone 125 mph a couple of times on the empty and wide open interstate. It gets a little "floatie" feeling at 120, but it could have kept on pulling.


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I can get that sorted out, then that leaves rerouting of the fuel lines, moving a few items to a toggle switch, and a new seat/harness install as the only items left as a necessary minimum for me to be legal to race.
> 
> 
> 
> didn't think you were still racing with the house, girlfriend and kid monopolizing your time
Click to expand...

Haven't been drag racing in over a year, but helped crew the SCCA Dragon Hill Climb in Robbinsville, NC a few weekends ago, and got hooked. Drive as fast as you can up a seriously windy, twisty road between a cliff and a rock face.

I instantly got hooked, and the benefit of it is that it's a few weekends a year, and usually a full weekend of racing. Really makes the effort more worth it for a dozen + runs over a two day span at 2 minutes a piece, vs. 18 seconds of drag racing. So, my boss who ran a borrowed car for the last event is finishing his Corvette, my coworker bought an RX7 that's a pretty well dialed in autocross car with a rotary engine, and I bought a bit of a basketcase RX7 that has had a smallblock Chevy/T5 transmission swapped into it that will become my road race machine. The beauty of it is that I can also have it tagged as a street legal vehicle in NC once the asshole sends me the title (long story there).


----------



## MA_PE

Thought I'd post this here. Ken Block driving a modified Forf Fiesta through the streets of San Franciso. 10 minutes long but pretty cool.

http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/ken-block-gymkhana-five-provides-ultimate-san-francisco-131042911.html


----------



## Supe

Word on the street is that the next hill climb event here in NC will have a Porsche GT3 cup car competing (it did at last year's and was double-booked at the one this past June so didn't make it), and it's also rumored that Travis Pastrana may show up with the Red Bull rally cross car.


----------



## envirotex

Can't wait for this...

http://circuitoftheamericas.com/

Saving my pennies for a cheap seat.


----------



## Supe

Three of us here in the office are already getting our vacation dates lined up for that.


----------



## Road Guy

So I replaced th fuel pump assembly today (PIA). Had to remove gas tank...

It appears that now the jeep will start but now the fuel Gage don't work?

What did I screw up in the process? The fuel pump assembly included a new sending unit?


----------



## Supe

Is the gauge somewhere between empty and full, or pegged one way or the other? If its the former, the float is probably stuck.


----------



## Road Guy

Seems to show dead empty doesn't budge....

I wonder if the assembly was in the wrong position when I tightened the cap? The racket was a bitch to get on...

I can't see myself fixing this today but I guess the second time I drop the fuel tank it will be easier around....


----------



## Road Guy

Well snap!

I had drained the last little bit of gas before I changed it and then put about 2 gallons of gas in it after I was finished... Drove to fill it up and dumb me, it was just empty....

Sorry had a blonde moment after being underneath th jeep all day!

So victory!!!!

Bad news is this thing has more rust than I thought, not much on frame but the entire ate above te has tank is extremely rusted...


----------



## envirotex

^^^Glad you got that fixed.


----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> Well snap!
> 
> I had drained the last little bit of gas before I changed it and then put about 2 gallons of gas in it after I was finished... Drove to fill it up and dumb me, it was just empty....
> 
> Sorry had a blonde moment after being underneath th jeep all day!


lol, I hate it when that happens but it sure beats actually having another problem to resolve.


----------



## Road Guy

Something that isnt a problem but is bugging me..

When i search my VIN # it says I have a15 gallon tank.. The Jeep comes in either a 15 gallon or a 19 gallon..

When I drainaged the gas tank I filed up about half a 5 gallon tank, well call it 3 gallons, spilled some due to clumsiness.. So I put around 2 gallons back in the fuel tank after I hooked up the gas tank..

When I went to the gas station I put exactly 15 gallons in the tank when the pump cut off on me..

So either the 15 gallon tank has some extra capacity, or it actually holds 17-18 gallons?? Or I actually have a 19 gallon tank.. and the only reason that bothers me is that I bought the fuel pump assembly for a 15 gallon tank  .. The bottom of the fuel pump hits the bottom of the gas tank (cause you have to push it down when you install it)


----------



## Flyer_PE

I think the tanks used to be reported a little smaller than their actual sizes. I know for aircraft, the tank capacity is called out as X gallons of useable fuel. Each tank on my plane will actually hold one more gallon than the useable figure. I've never run one dry so I'm not sure if I can actually get that last gallon to the engine or not.


----------



## pbrme

I doubt you have 19 gallons. When you filled up in the past, were you ever in the 17-19 gallon range? Like flyer said, the tanks are a bit oversized and you'll have some capacity in the lines as well.


----------



## Supe

Well, $300 later and I have a slew of crap needed to install a hydraulic throwout bearing and Wilwood master cylinder in the new race car.


----------



## Supe

So it turns out my roll bar now needs to be a full on roll cage. So, now I get to order the rest of the materials, yank the dash, yank the wiring, yank the carpeting and seats out, etc etc etc. It's only money I guess. My big worry is getting it all done in time to make the September race.


----------



## Rockettt

what kind of racing is this.... autocross?


----------



## Supe

SCCA TT/Level 4 Hillclimbs. May do some auto-x up at Z-max every so often. An e-mail from about 1/2 hour ago told me that if I keep my lights, wipers, dash, and DOT tires, I can run a "Street Unlimited" class. Now I can wait to put the cage in until winter, and only need to install the bar to make the September race.


----------



## Supe

FINALLY got my clutch working again. What a nightmare. Spent 3 days trying to get the new hydraulic throwout bearing and lines bled, couldn't do it. Big air pocket that despite vacuum bleeding, pedal bleeding, and doing a rain dance, wouldn't work its way out. Ended up pulling the trans AGAIN, taking the bearing out, lifting it above the master, bleeding it out of the car, and then working its way back in via the clutch fork hole. It IS nice and light, and buttery smooth, though.


----------



## Road Guy

I have never attempted a clutch, my jeep has 145k miles on it so I know it's in my future..

On another note, I scored a brand new hitch for my jeep of craigslist for $45 bucks..mainly just need it for my hitch hauler when we take it on a upcoming fall camping trip (little room for gear)

Anyways, I start to install the thing and the weld nuts inside the frame are so far stripped there is not going to be a way to use them. The 2 main attachment points are situated so you can't access them and have to rely on the weld nuts to secure the bumper and the hitch to the frame..

I have never used a tap and die set but I have one, I don't have anything to loose since there just isn't any thread left.. The size was supposed to be a 12mm.. Any words of advice before I give this a world? I wonder if there is enough of the weld nut left to even chase a new thread in there?

This Is another time when a welder would come in handy...

If the tap doesn't work I can remove the factory bumper and get a better bumper that includes a hitch.. The 4 bolts to the frame for the bumper appear fine its the ones under the frame that are gone..

.?.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Road Guy said:


> On another note, I scored a brand new hitch for my jeep of craigslist for $45 bucks..mainly just need it for my hitch hauler when we take it on a upcoming fall camping trip (little room for gear)


My Dad had a firm rule that if you couldn't fit it in the truck, it didn't go.

But seriously, no advice other than pray and wave incense over it or something.


----------



## Supe

Tap and die is a bit iffy. If you can't replace the weld nuts, I'd sooner give helicoils a try. Then again, if its rusted that badly, do you want to trust a hitch being mounted to it?


----------



## pbrme

pics?

Do you have room to just grind off the weld nuts and drill holes for thru bolts? Tapping these nuts would require a Blind hole tape, to bottom out the threads if there wasn't already a hole or recess past the inside of the nut to allow full thread taps. Tapping is easy if you follow the charts... what size drill vs. what size tap. Go a 1/4 turn then back an 1/8, repeat... then at around every 3 rotations, back it out to remove chips and start over. Also make sure to keep the tap lubricated.


----------



## blybrook PE

A tap &amp; die to the next larger size would be appropriate in this situation IF there's enough metal left on the nut to accept it (don't utilize the original size as it will just strip out again in a hurry). However, weld nuts are not known to have much "meat" in them for accepting a larger tap (nor are riv-nuts). PBR nailed the tap &amp; die proceedure to a T.

A helicoil would work IF there's enough meat to accept it, which I highly doubt with a frame connection. Typically, the frame is punched, then threaded. So you usually only have the thickness of the frame to act as the "meat" for the thread engagement. Typically helicoils do best in engine blocks and other areas where there's plenty of meat to accept them and you cannot go to a larger bolt size in the connecting piece.

You may be better off drilling out the old nut and using a carriage bolt through a rectangular piece of 1/4" bar stock (as seen in the following link as part number 6). This will require drilling a hole in the frame to chase the new bolt assembly in (typically 1" hole saw). It may also require the redrilling of the hitch and/or bumper to accept the new bolt diameter, IF you go to a larger bolt. You should be able to remove the old nut and still be close to the original bolt size. The link is for a curt hitch installation on some other chrysler vehicle, but shows the rectangular bar stock and the carriage bolt configuration better than I can describe in words.

I would refrain from welding the hitch to the frame. Just my 2 cents worth.


----------



## Road Guy

I'll grabs pic but there is no way to access the inside of the frame to drop a bolt in, and the body of the jeep is in the way so I cant drill all the way through without some "hassle"

I think I am just gonna put this hitch for sale on Craigslist and just spend a little more money and get a new bumper for the jeep that already has the hitch mounted/attached to it. I think I can get one for around $200.00 and it would look better..

I took the bolts off the factory bumper and there are no issues there. You can tell there used to be a hitch there and I think someone just ratched the hell out of it while they were installing or removing..


----------



## blybrook PE

RG,

I've not yet crawled under a newer jeep to see how the body and the frame interact. Most of the 4x rigs that I've crawled under have enough room showing on the frame for one to get a hole drilled into the side of it and fish a bolt through. It wouldn't surprise me if the newer jeeps have removed this option due to cost saving endevours of the beloved manufacturer.

If you can find a bumper that will mount up without having any issues that already has an integral hitch, that's great. Be sure to check it out well enough to ensure it's more than a class 2 hitch system. I wouldn't recommend anything less than a class 3 for a 4x rig. Those usually mount to the frame with 4-6 bolts.


----------



## Road Guy

I could do that I think, there is a hole about 12 inches back for the other mounting place for that purpose (2 bolts each side) I may give that a try..

I had to do that on my older Durango and it was a major pain in the ass, I had a fishing tool that came with the hitch for that vehicle..

But it still took a while to get it done....

I was trying to think an extra 200 bucks versus another day of wasted time and energy making this work..I think the new bumper is looking better and better..there is one on quadratec that is class IV hitch mounted to the bumper.. I wouldn't pull much of anything but a 4x8 trailer that gets used for pine straw and other odds and ends and for the hitch hauler mainly.. I wouldn't tow a boat or anything substantial with it... With my 94 jeep wrangler I would pull both jet ski's and even with the I6 it was a challenge going up hill..

I also dont have the right size tap set for bigger than 1/2 inch.. So that would probably be another $30-$40 bucks....


----------



## pbrme

Road Guy said:


> I think I am just gonna put this hitch for sale on Craigslist and just spend a little more money and get a new bumper for the jeep that already has the hitch mounted/attached to it. I think I can get one for around $200.00 and it would look better..


You could get your $45 back on CL, or you could keep it and mount it in the front and put your hitch hauler up there instead. Heh? :th_rockon:


----------



## Supe

Anybody want to play "where's the short"?

Two problems:

1) The headlights and interior lights stay on permanently. They get brighter/dimmer with the on/off switch for the headlights, but never completely turn off unless the key is out of the ignition.

2) Left turn signal works correctly. Right turn signal flashes the right rear turn signal, both brake lights, left rear marker lamp, and one of the lights behind the ash tray...


----------



## blybrook PE

Supe,

I'd start with the wiring between the headlight switch and the turnsignal switch. It does sound like one (or both) of those switches have started to go fubar as it could be within the switch itself.


----------



## snickerd3

the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I'll forward this to a buddy with two 2nd gen RX7s. He knows those cars like the back of his hand. just finishing up the resto on a 90 vert.


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.


Why wouldn't you be able to use it at the drive inn? The lights don't go on if the key is in auxiliary, do they?


----------



## blybrook PE

Daytime running lights shouldn't affect the interior light at all. That interior light should remain off unless the door is open, or the manual switch as part of the headlight switch assembly is activated. Or there's a short as Supe believes...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

snickerd3 said:


> the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.


Typically they will turn off if you engage the parking brake.


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't you be able to use it at the drive inn? The lights don't go on if the key is in auxiliary, do they?
Click to expand...

As long as the key is in the ignition they stay on, dimmer than if the lights were turned on buy still on.

I haven't tried the parking break thing...will have to check that out.


----------



## pbrme

Supe said:


> Anybody want to play "where's the short"?
> 
> 2) Left turn signal works correctly. Right turn signal flashes the right rear turn signal, *&amp; *both brake lights, left rear marker lamp, and one of the lights behind the ash tray...*?*


:huh:

Check the blinker fluid  ?

That's hard to say... I would be tracing wires if it were me, and checking continuity and voltages during/after switch. Sounds like you need a worker buddy. Grab a sixer after work and call over a neighbor.


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.


No daytime running lights on this one. Something's definitely "off" here, as the interior lights stay on with it permanently.

Capt: Thanks for the help.

Bly: Will do. Last time I was under the dash, it didn't appear that there was too much damage done under there by the previous owner, other than a cluster of wires for the gauge set lighting, whose intensity goes up and down with the light switch. I'm beginning to think somethings hosed up with the switches, as I think the headlight motor switch is also a dud - they're permanently in the up position.


----------



## pbrme

snickerd3 said:


> knight1fox3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't you be able to use it at the drive inn? The lights don't go on if the key is in auxiliary, do they?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As long as the key is in the ignition they stay on, dimmer than if the lights were turned on buy still on.
> 
> I haven't tried the parking break thing...will have to check that out.
Click to expand...

Why do you need it on aux.? for the drive-in radio?
Install a selector switch on the yellow ign. radio wire, and wire it to a ground? Label it "drive-in" and then switch it over when you need it on w/o a key.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Capt: Thanks for the help.


No prob, but it may be a little while before he gets back to me.

Keep in mind that by this time, Japanes cars of that era have developed more faulty grounds than Fukishima.


----------



## Supe

Thankfully I have no ECM/emissions/engine management crap to worry about anymore...


----------



## MA_PE

I kknow nothing about these cars, but could there be a limit switch that powers the lights when the headlight housings are in the "up" position?


----------



## snickerd3

pbrme said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> knight1fox3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> the first one is called day time running lights...my car is the same way...even if I turn the lights off they are still on...rather annoying actually. I asked about it at the dealer and they said there was no way to turn them off. Can't use my car at the drive inn.
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't you be able to use it at the drive inn? The lights don't go on if the key is in auxiliary, do they?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> As long as the key is in the ignition they stay on, dimmer than if the lights were turned on buy still on.
> 
> I haven't tried the parking break thing...will have to check that out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why do you need it on aux.? for the drive-in radio?
> Install a selector switch on the yellow ign. radio wire, and wire it to a ground? Label it "drive-in" and then switch it over when you need it on w/o a key.
Click to expand...

yep, the movie sound is through the car radio. They don't have the volume outside on very loud. we just take mr snicks car because his van doesn't have the light issue.

We also run the air for awhile since we have had 100+ degree weather and it is still usually hot at night.


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> I kknow nothing about these cars, but could there be a limit switch that powers the lights when the headlight housings are in the "up" position?


There's supposed to be a separate switch for that which will operate them independently, but I'm pretty sure it crapped out too.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Capt: Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> 
> No prob, but it may be a little while before he gets back to me.
> 
> Keep in mind that by this time, Japanes cars of that era have developed more faulty grounds than Fukishima.
Click to expand...

I don't think his response will be helpful:



> BWHAHAHA...


----------



## Supe

AAAAAAAAAAAAAARGH. Bought a new battery for my Saturn, thought to myself, hmmm, let me check the voltage first with the car running. 13.2v. Alternator is bad. Going to cost me a fortune to get fixed, as it's impossible to get to without taking half of the intake/emissions shit off.


----------



## Master slacker

Sounds like my mom's old 2000 Grand Prix. Thank God she no longer has that thing.


----------



## blybrook PE

Speaking of bad alternators, found my '74 Scout popped the regulator over the weekend. Won't put out more than 10V. That won't work come plow time... Now to remove the hydraulic pump to get to the alternator. Then find one locally that will work. IIRC, it's a standard GM part, just have to find a parts house that has one in stock.


----------



## cdcengineer

Question - what's the consensus on waxing the plastic (painted to match body) molded body panels on newer vehicles?


----------



## jeb6294

I always waxed everything unless it has a texture to it...you can never get the wax out of the nooks and crannies. Even if they're plastic wouldn't they still have the same paint and clearcoat as the rest of the car? Used to even do the windows because it's just a cheaper version of Rain-X. Now I'm just lazy and buy the Rain-X washer fluid.


----------



## Rockettt

paint is paint wax it all.

I also second the windows. on my show cars and bikes and all. wax it all. even on chrome its a good barrier and makes it easier for bugs to come off.


----------



## cdcengineer

thanks for the input. I've always used Meguiars rim cleaner on my wheels, but I've heard waxing those is also the way to go. Not sure I want to make that switch though


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I only wax the paint. I have a finishing spray that I use on everything (including windows) once I'm done waxing.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I ran my car through a car wash once. I've owned it for almost four years now.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Rain does a fair job and it's free.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ As long as it rains enough to actually rinse it off. We typically get just enough rain to put "dots" in the dust...


----------



## Flyer_PE

I always swear that my next car will be water-spot gray. I always end up going for either black or dark blue though.


----------



## cdcengineer

Rain does a good job, but I swear by a once of year thorough detail and wax to keep the car looking great. My silver 01' Tacoma looks almost as nice as when I got it after a good waxing. It's like putting money in the bank. The longer it stays nice, the longer I own it. And I might keep this thing until my 3 year old can drive (if the engine lasts).

I am going to try and own our new 4runner for 10+ years too.


----------



## Master slacker

I washed my beater once... in 5 years... about 5 years ago.

When I did wash it, the water in the bucket afterwards was redder than the paint left on the car.


----------



## cdcengineer

^ try some wax


----------



## Master slacker

I'd rather have the clear coat that was applied 20 years ago


----------



## cdcengineer

that stuff might have been too good. automotive paint industry may not want clear coat to last so long. or maybe it was bad for the enviro?


----------



## engineergurl

Help me out guys... my brain is fried...

/&gt;http://www.cars.com/jeep/grand-cherokee/2002/specifications/

so the towing capacity for the jeep is 5,000 lbs if I'm reading that right. It appears that the hitch is factory installed so am I safe to assume that this is also up to the 5,000 lbs?

If this is the case, then I should only be limited by the trailer I choose from U-haul?


----------



## blybrook PE

EG, that 5000lb capacity is assuming a driver of 150lb and no other equipment / weight in the towing vehicle. Provided the hitch is factory installed and a class 3 or heavier, you can handle the 5000lb load easily enough. I think most of the older truck bumpers had a similar rating on them too, so you *should* be good to go.

I've seen Jeeps tow much more than that. I would agree that you are limited to the U-Haul trailer availability and size. They will ask what you are towing it with and should size the trailer appropriately.

EDIT - I just went and looked at the uhaul site. The 6x12 enclosed (largest available) has a filled capacity of around 4800lbs (including trailer weight). You can easilty tow that with your jeep.


----------



## engineergurl

lmao, so I have to factor in the fact of two peoples weight and the animals that will be bouncing around inside the jeep?

I'm looking at these because I didn't want to load up most of the electronics into the POD's that are already gone. I'm actually looking at the 4'x8' trailer since we are talking about two televisions, two dog cages, a computer tower, about 4 suitcases of clothes and about MAYBE 30 more boxes of stuff.

I know my old truck had a higher towing capacity on the engine than the bumper, but when I crawled under the jeep to look for stickers on the hitch (class III) I discovered that it must have been factory installed since nearly the whole dang thing is encased in the plastic covering thing.

Thanks for the confirmation Bly... I was planning on reserving a trailer online but got nervous when U-haul started asking me questions.


----------



## engineergurl

and I just read that and realized I said "peoples"


----------



## blybrook PE

You'll be fine. Good luck on the final "move" efforts.


----------



## engineergurl

thanks again. I just can't wait to not be sleeping on an air mattress


----------



## Master slacker

engineergurl said:


> I'm looking at these because I didn't want to load up most of the electronics into the POD's that are already gone. I'm actually looking at the 4'x8' trailer since we are talking about two televisions, two dog cages, a computer tower, about 4 suitcases of clothes and about MAYBE 30 more boxes of stuff.


I've hauled more using my wife's itty-bitty Rav4. You'll be fine. :thumbs:


----------



## blybrook PE

Found that it was the alternator and not the wiring. Was glad I picked up one while I was in town just in case. 1/2 hour later, have 16V surging through the system; now to replace the battery before it spews more acid over everything...


----------



## Road Guy

EG, Does your Jeep (I assume Cherokee?) have a tow package, Hopefully since it was factory installed (hitch).. If your towing a long distance the tow package gives you an extra radiator for help in cooling the engine while towing..

It would probably not be a big deal but we had the older Dodge Durango (original body size) with a Hemi V8 that didnt have a tow package, and when I would pull my 2 jet ski's it would run hotter than I would prefer if I towed it more than an hour or so..

I have the newer durango now with a smaller V8 (4.7L) but it does have a tow package and life is much easier on the engine..

on my hitch issue from the previous page I ended up going to a "hitch &amp; trailer" place and they were able to fish a couple of new bolts and drill some holes for $45 bucks.. money well spent in my opinion, I figured I would have lost the better half of a saturday doing it myself...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Road Guy said:


> It would probably not be a big deal but we had the older Dodge Durango (original body size) with a Hemi V8 that didnt have a tow package, and when I would pull my 2 jet ski's it would run hotter than I would prefer if I towed it more than an hour or so..


I thought the 1st gen Durango had the LA series small block and the second gen had the Hemi?


----------



## blybrook PE

If you start to overheat for any reason, roll down your windows and crank up the heater, it will help alievate some of the extra heat from the vehicle until you can find a safe place to pull over and let it cool off. But I think EG will not have any problems since she reports having the stock hitch; jeeps are fairly tough in that respect.

RG - Good to hear on your hitch, that's definately a better price than having to replace the entire bumper assembly to get one that way.


----------



## engineergurl

everything I have read seems to indicate that the capacity is 5,000 lbs... I'll be honest, the day I bought the jeep, was the same day I wrecked the truck and I got bopped on the head, face, legs, chest, etc etc etc pretty hard and really don't remember much about anything that day other than some really old guy pulled me out of my truck... and the smell of the air bag

I have one other place to check for the owners manual, but I think it has already been packed and shipped to VA...


----------



## Supe

Need to work on installing the new Kirkey race seat tonight now that the cage is done. Going to modify the slider brackets that were in the car.


----------



## Supe

Got the brackets modified last night. Race rules require my seat to be no more than 6" from the roll cage main hoop. Problem is, I have midget legs, and so I had to lay the seat back more than usual to let me meet those requirements, and now the thigh area of the seat impedes my ability to comfortably press the clutch all the way to the floor. Have a little wiggle room left, so I will try to put a 1" spacer on the back of the brackets to tilt the seat forward tonight and see if that works.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Put a block of wood on the clutch.


----------



## Supe

Not exactly what I want beneath my foot during a hill climb, though I could actually make a spacer for it, as it has a separate pedal pad.


----------



## MA_PE

you could wear elevator shoes and put them on the top floor.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

You could wear your stilettos...

http://www.arstcrylique.com/2010/12/old-school-tattoos-on-your-stilettos.html


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

This happened at the Pikes Peak Hill Climb this year:


All the more reason to ensure your cage is up to spec.


----------



## Supe

Quite a few spectacular crashes at Pike's Peak this year.

My roll bar is up to spec, though the SCCA specs are pretty crappy (so are the SFI specs for that matter). The design criteria they give you is OK, but leave a lot to be desired from a welding standpoint (as do the tech inspectors). I'm a huge perfectionist when it comes to my roll cage installs, which I guess is a good thing as I'm now involved in writing the new Code book that governs it (AWS D10.17).


----------



## MA_PE

ouch. did the cage save that guy?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

From the news article, both the driver and his co-pilot were taken to an area hospital with minor injuries.

http://www.9news.com/news/article/282975/339/WATCH-Pikes-Peak-crash-caught-on-camera


----------



## Supe

There was another driver whose throttle hung open and he went straight off the side of another track section at 130mph roughly. They used the jaws of life to remove the top half of his roll cage, entire car was covered in mud, but the cage and his Hans device saved him.

Thankfully, the hill climb I'll be running in September had the track location chosen so that there are, at a minimum, guard rails on either side of the track or a rock face, so you can crash, but are less likely to plummet to your death.


----------



## Supe

Seat is FINALLY installed. Took car around the block yesterday, brake pedal is a little low, needs adjusted. Clutch works like a dream. Car is jerky on deceleration, don't know if its the new clutch or the rear end giving me fits, probably a combination of both. Car stumbles a little off idle, probably a combination of carb setup, bad old gas, and vacuum leaks somewhere. Alternator doesn't seem to be charging, need to see if I knocked the charge wire loose somewhere. A few other electrical odds and ends, but its coming along. Need to get the diff drained and put some synthetic fluid in there and cross my fingers. I have a replacement ready to go, but it appears to be quite the production to get that thing out of there.


----------



## Supe

Woohoo! Got brakes back in the Mazda. Took the two of us quite a while, but we were able to get them bled. The old ABS unit that was pulled had its seals deteriorate so badly, that when we finally got past the blockage (by pumping the brakes up, then cracking the bleeder), that what came out was the color of dirty motor oil. Actually have a pedal back now, so all that really leaves for the race later this month is to get the electrical cutoff switch installed, and figure out where I'm getting this miss at part throttle. UPS guy brought me some carburetor parts today, so that will be tomorrow's project.


----------



## Supe

If anybody's interested, here's a link to the site of the hillclimb I'll be running, complete with some videos from the previous races:

/&gt;http://www.dragonhillclimb.com/


----------



## pbrme

Supe said:


> If anybody's interested, here's a link to the site of the hillclimb I'll be running, complete with some videos from the previous races:
> 
> http://www.dragonhillclimb.com/


Looks like fun, good luck on finishing your build and chasing that dragon!


----------



## knight1fox3

Need new all-weather (Wisconsin) tires for my Infiniti G35 Sedan. Since it is RWD, last winter was a hassle at times because I don't have snow tires. Looking for any recommendations of a good tire that will also work fairly well in the winter months here. I have a relative who works at Pomp's Tire in northern WI. He recommended this:



> Goodyear makes a 215/55VR17 Assurance Triple Tread A/S. It is pricey ($185 ea) but a very nice tire.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I hear nothing but good things about Blizzaks.

But I'm in the South...we just don't drive in the ice.


----------



## blybrook PE

Blizzaks are about as good as you can get for the Northern Climates without going to studs for 2wd vehicles. I know a lot of guys that run them on their 4x's. I utilize a goodyear all season, all terrain for the truck; but carry chains for when it gets really nasty.

Only issue with Blizzaks as they are a winter only tire; you don't want to run them during the summer as they'll wear out extremely fast. If the temp gets above 50*F; change the tires to summer tread.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I'm putting these on my Camaro:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&amp;tireModel=ExtremeContact+DWS

They are one of the few tires that fit my car and have some type of winter grip.

I've had the Bilizzaks before and were happy with them too, but I agree with Bly that you shouldn't drive them during the summer.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Also meant to ask, what does "winter driving" entail in Wisconsin? Are we talking ice, snow, or mix of the two? Also, how much? What about temperatures?

Here in CO, winter driving is mostly just cold weather. We don't get much ice, and when it snows, the roads are cleared relatively quickly. I think I had to park the Camaro for a grand total of 15 days last winter (and that was with the old set of Pirelli P-Zeros).


----------



## snickerd3

^all of the above and inbetween. Ice (inches), snow (inches to feet), mix, rain, sleet, cold, bitter cold, sub arctic


----------



## pbrme

snickerd3 said:


> ^all of the above and inbetween. Ice (inches), snow (inches to feet), mix, rain, sleet, cold, bitter cold, sub arctic


Don't forget about salt and more salt.


----------



## Supe

I'm an oil change, set of tires, and some vinyl stickers away from having a SU legal hillclimb car!


----------



## engineergurl

can't help much for tires... I got mine used and was just happy they all matched...


----------



## Supe

Mine are coming from Wisconsin - 255/35/18 Hoosier A6's. Grippy-grip grippy.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Mine are coming from Wisconsin - 255/35/18 Hoosier A6's. Grippy-grip grippy.


I think they said mine are coming from Ohio...


----------



## pbrme

Supe said:


> I'm an oil change, set of tires, and some vinyl stickers away from having a SU legal hillclimb car!


Don't forget the EB.com bumper sticker!


----------



## Supe

If I could get one here in time I would!


----------



## knight1fox3

pbrme said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^all of the above and inbetween. Ice (inches), snow (inches to feet), mix, rain, sleet, cold, bitter cold, sub arctic
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget about salt and more salt.
Click to expand...

This and this. LOL


----------



## Supe

This came stock in a 1987 Maxda RX7, right?


----------



## blybrook PE

^Looks too clean Supe... I think them gauges and additional cross brace were added in later; they don't appear to be stock at all...

Irregardless if it was stock or not; looks like a real clean install! bet it purrs like a kitten too!


----------



## Supe

The car had some good parts when I bought it, but the previous owner should have never been allowed near a pair of scissors, never mind a toolbox. He had _no clue_ what he was doing. I'm absolutely baffled that I got this car from an undriveable to race ready in less than 2.5 months time.

Some of his gems included:

-Faulty wiring (still a ton to fix)

-Wrong carb and incorrectly adjusted the one that was on there

-Timing incorrectly set

-Flywheel installed incorrectly

-Clutch and pressure plate installed incorrectly

-Incorrect slave cylinder setup (made the car undriveable)

-Wrong bellhousing

-Clutch fork ball stud set incorrectly (I replaced entire setup with a hydraulic throwout bearing)

-Shifter installed incorrectly

-Fuel pump mounted and wired incorrectly, subsequently burnt out

-Fan mounted and wired incorrectly

-All engine gaskets leaking (oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold)

-Wrong size line for brake booster (massive vacuum leak)

-Engine cradle not bolted in correctly

-Brake lines plugged

-Rear diff backlash set incorrectly (gears have eaten themselves alive, have new rear to put in after the race)

-Incorrect rear springs (sat uneven, ate up one rear tire)

-Rear struts installed incorrectly

-Rear lateral links cross threaded, MASSIVELY dangerous to drive (rear toe would change 10-15° degrees at will)

-Driveshaft installed incorrectly

-WIndshield cracked (getting replaced this week)

-Some lugnuts missing

-Wrong seats and mounted incorrectly (have replaced with legal race seat)

This is just SOME of what this guy had done, which is why I bought the car for about 35% of asking price. Basically bought it for what the engine was worth!


----------



## mudpuppy

That doesn't look like a Wankel.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Did he use a JTR kit?


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> Did he use a JTR kit?


Bits and pieces of a Granny's Speed Shop conversion.


----------



## willsee

My G35 needs new wheels after I curbed dodging old people driving


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did he use a JTR kit?
> 
> 
> 
> Bits and pieces of a Granny's Speed Shop conversion.
Click to expand...

Locally, there are a ton of S-10s running smallblock JTR kits.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> The car had some good parts when I bought it, but the previous owner should have never been allowed near a pair of scissors, never mind a toolbox. He had _no clue_ what he was doing. I'm absolutely baffled that I got this car from an undriveable to race ready in less than 2.5 months time.
> 
> Some of his gems included:
> 
> -Faulty wiring (still a ton to fix)
> 
> -Wrong carb and incorrectly adjusted the one that was on there
> 
> -Timing incorrectly set
> 
> -Flywheel installed incorrectly
> 
> -Clutch and pressure plate installed incorrectly
> 
> -Incorrect slave cylinder setup (made the car undriveable)
> 
> -Wrong bellhousing
> 
> -Clutch fork ball stud set incorrectly (I replaced entire setup with a hydraulic throwout bearing)
> 
> -Shifter installed incorrectly
> 
> -Fuel pump mounted and wired incorrectly, subsequently burnt out
> 
> -Fan mounted and wired incorrectly
> 
> -All engine gaskets leaking (oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold)
> 
> -Wrong size line for brake booster (massive vacuum leak)
> 
> -Engine cradle not bolted in correctly
> 
> -Brake lines plugged
> 
> -Rear diff backlash set incorrectly (gears have eaten themselves alive, have new rear to put in after the race)
> 
> -Incorrect rear springs (sat uneven, ate up one rear tire)
> 
> -Rear struts installed incorrectly
> 
> -Rear lateral links cross threaded, MASSIVELY dangerous to drive (rear toe would change 10-15° degrees at will)
> 
> -Driveshaft installed incorrectly
> 
> -WIndshield cracked (getting replaced this week)
> 
> -Some lugnuts missing
> 
> -Wrong seats and mounted incorrectly (have replaced with legal race seat)
> 
> This is just SOME of what this guy had done, which is why I bought the car for about 35% of asking price. Basically bought it for what the engine was worth!


Please tell me he at least had a NOS sticker on the car somewhere...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> The car had some good parts when I bought it, but the previous owner should have never been allowed near a pair of scissors, never mind a toolbox. He had _no clue_ what he was doing. I'm absolutely baffled that I got this car from an undriveable to race ready in less than 2.5 months time.
> 
> Some of his gems included:
> 
> -Faulty wiring (still a ton to fix)
> 
> -Wrong carb and incorrectly adjusted the one that was on there
> 
> -Timing incorrectly set
> 
> -Flywheel installed incorrectly
> 
> -Clutch and pressure plate installed incorrectly
> 
> -Incorrect slave cylinder setup (made the car undriveable)
> 
> -Wrong bellhousing
> 
> -Clutch fork ball stud set incorrectly (I replaced entire setup with a hydraulic throwout bearing)
> 
> -Shifter installed incorrectly
> 
> -Fuel pump mounted and wired incorrectly, subsequently burnt out
> 
> -Fan mounted and wired incorrectly
> 
> -All engine gaskets leaking (oil pan, timing cover, intake manifold)
> 
> -Wrong size line for brake booster (massive vacuum leak)
> 
> -Engine cradle not bolted in correctly
> 
> -Brake lines plugged
> 
> -Rear diff backlash set incorrectly (gears have eaten themselves alive, have new rear to put in after the race)
> 
> -Incorrect rear springs (sat uneven, ate up one rear tire)
> 
> -Rear struts installed incorrectly
> 
> -Rear lateral links cross threaded, MASSIVELY dangerous to drive (rear toe would change 10-15° degrees at will)
> 
> -Driveshaft installed incorrectly
> 
> -WIndshield cracked (getting replaced this week)
> 
> -Some lugnuts missing
> 
> -Wrong seats and mounted incorrectly (have replaced with legal race seat)
> 
> This is just SOME of what this guy had done, which is why I bought the car for about 35% of asking price. Basically bought it for what the engine was worth!
> 
> 
> 
> Please tell me he at least had a NOS sticker on the car somewhere...
Click to expand...

Probably on the phart can exhaust tip.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

That was run under the primered, cracked fiberglass body kit.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

With a big wing.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP




----------



## envirotex

So...Junior wants to sell the 1985 FJ60 and get a muscle car. He's looking for an Oldsmobile Cutlass or a &lt;1972 Mustang.

Kind of on the fence. The FJ needs new suspension and an engine rebuild (280K miles) if he keeps it which means anywhere from $1500 to $3000 for the basics. It also needs an interior, but that's secondary, he can get the new interior (and a stereo) on his own dime. If we sell it as is, he could probably get a driver Cutlass or Mustang for the cash plus about the same for the repairs of the FJ.

I think the FJ is a pretty cool teen car, and it's built like a tank so once we make the repairs it'll be pretty indestructible, but I also had a Mustang when I was in HS which was also a tank...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

And a hood scoop held on with double-sided 3M tape.


----------



## Supe

No NOS stickers, but he had bits and pieces of an improperly installed NOS Sniper kit (the wimpy solenoids) installed on the motor. Thankfully he never used it, because that motor would have been toast. He also had "Eibach" stickers (maker of the crooked springs), a "FUEL SLUTS" sticker on the rear window (beats me), and a "SPDNTCKT" license plate, which I still have, and will shoot up with the AR-15 later this fall in celebration.

No body kit, either. Exhaust is a relatively quiet dual exhaust. It WILL be getting a giant wing this winter though, but for function, not looks. The name of the game in hillclimb events is downforce, so it will receive a purpose built GT wing from a company in California, along with a custom front splitter. I also need some new shocks, but the cost of custom Bilsteins, Ohlens, or Koni's are roughly what I paid for the damned car...

Just for reference, here is the BBR Shark. This thing holds roughly every hillclimb and autocross record in the Southeast, and generates over 1G in braking when he lets off the throttle, just from downforce.


----------



## Supe

Alignment and new tires mounted tomorrow morning. Once that's done, she's hillclimb ready!


----------



## knight1fox3

Looks nice Supe!


----------



## Supe

Not my cup of tea in the looks department, but hey, it'll do! Function over form...


----------



## envirotex

Very cool. When's the first run?


----------



## Supe

I head up on Thursday, tech on Friday, race is this coming Saturday and Sunday.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Headlight motors dead?


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> Headlight motors dead?


Either dead, or victim to the one of many wiring problems that will be addressed this winter. More than likely it's in the headlight switch - it's frozen solid, i.e. vice grips wouldn't even turn the shaft.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> I'm putting these on my Camaro:
> 
> http://www.tirerack....remeContact+DWS
> 
> They are one of the few tires that fit my car and have some type of winter grip.





knight1fox3 said:


> Goodyear makes a 215/55VR17 Assurance Triple Tread A/S. It is pricey ($185 ea) but a very nice tire./&gt;http://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/assurance-tripletred-all-season?pc=39954834900000
Click to expand...

I'm probably going to go with one of the above mentioned tires.



willsee said:


> My G35 needs new wheels after I curbed dodging old people driving


I have a G35 as well. Are you getting wheels and tires? Brand?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Replaced the front tires on Saturday, so now I have a full set of the Continentals.  The ride on those is so much better than the Pirellis.  Smooth, quiet, yet responsive.  Highly recommend.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> Replaced the front tires on Saturday, so now I have a full set of the Continentals. The ride on those is so much better than the Pirellis. Smooth, quiet, yet responsive. Highly recommend.


How much did you pay for them?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

$580 installed for the fronts. (245/45/ZR20)

$635 for the rears (275/40/ZR20)


----------



## Supe

Geeze, those suckers cost more than my 18" race tires!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It would have been worse if I stuck with the crappy Pirelli PZero's.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> $580 installed for the fronts. (245/45/ZR20)
> 
> $635 for the rears (275/40/ZR20)


:blink: Wow...


----------



## willsee

I put Continental's Extreme Contact on mine

18's all around i think i paid $850 or so installed.

So I just need new wheels and don't even know where to start.


----------



## Master slacker

Damn... If I paid near that amount for tires, I'd throw up. Of course, now that I looked it up, my tires have gone from $104 each to $139 each. Grrrrr...

Of course, my beater's tires are $49 each. :lmao:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I find it equally perplexing when someone goes out and buys an expensive sports car and wont pay the extra $0.20 per gallon to fill it with the right octane fuel. You spent how much on a performance car and refuse to fill it with the stuff that allows it to run the way it should?

I won't go cheap when it comes to making sure my car has what it needs to run properly. Sure, I will shop around to find the best prices, but I wont go with cheap stuff just to save a buck.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> $580 installed for the fronts. (245/45/ZR20)
> 
> $635 for the rears (275/40/ZR20)
> 
> 
> 
> :blink: Wow...
Click to expand...

Tell me about it. And I got upset about paying three c-notes for a full set of 225/55/16 Goodyears for the Maxx.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ And because they're being installed on the Camaro, the tread-life mileage warranty is automatically voided. The joys of staggered wheels/tires and the inability to rotate them.


----------



## Master slacker

^^^ 92 Tracer FTMFW. After 40k miles I just rotated my tires and the tread still looks brand new.


----------



## willsee

Dexman PE said:


> The joys of staggered wheels/tires and the inability to rotate them.


Agreed


----------



## Supe

Man, what a weekend.

Car had been working flawlessly... until I got to the race. In line for my first run up the hill, car starts sputtering and popping, won't maintain an idle. Voltage is dropping fast. Turned out to be a dead alternator. Went into town during the lunch break, picked up a new alternator and swapped it in.

Recharged battery, car was running fine, made a GREAT run up the hill despite it raining, and their timing system went down, so I got no time for the run.

Next day, go to start car, battery is dead! Pop the clutch to get her going. Sitting in line ready to go, car starts dying again. The incline from the hill and sitting too long is now making the carb flood. Get pushed back to pits, fix carb, pop clutch, get up to line.

Am making a SCREAMING pass up the hill, and I come into the spectator two turn. POP. Somehow managed to shave off enough speed that I didn't hit the cliff face (I dropped two tires off the road, mirror was within probably 6 inches of cliff at approx. 80 mph.) Straighten car out, get back on it, and see smoke. Coast to side of the road, have event crew come look before I unbuckle, blew the front left tire going into that turn.

Wrecker pulls car down hill. This is Sunday in the middle of nowhere in the Smokey Mountains. Old guy with 3 foot beard offers to take my wheels back to town, dismount tires, and put my street tires back on them. He does just that. Car dies again on line. Get full charge while pulled off to the side, and make my fastest timed run of the day on rock hard street tires, which slowed me waaaay down.

Go to make last run of the day on a borrowed battery. Get around turn one, starts breaking up bad. Car now popping/backfiring even at low RPM's. Believe that I took out something in the top end of the motor, i.e. valve spring or exhaust valve.

In any case, it was a catastrophe of a weekend, the crowd was really into it when I got the car going, they gave me the unofficial "persistence under duress" award, and everyone was nice as could be, chipping in to help with whatever they could. Also managed to take third in my class despite the crappy street tires, so I'll take it. Had a great time, met some great folks, and will be back up there in June with a fixed motor, reworked electrical system, and fuel injection. Haven't seen anyone post any pics up of the car yet (at least moving under its own power...) but I'll be sure to post up if I find one!


----------



## Supe

By the way, that one tire that blew... $350, and it lasted approx. 45 seconds into its first run...


----------



## Master slacker

Ouch on the $$$! Cool that you had fun and an experience at that. Also... carbs... changing elevations... fast turns... ? Ever thought of Mega Squirt?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I can't believe folks are still futzing around with carbs...


----------



## Supe

They're still pretty danged reliable, it's the steep inclines that it had some trouble with. Ran great once I got going, it was the idle that created issues.

MS - If I go with anything, I'll probably go to the new FAST EFI setup that is self-learning. Supports up to 600 HP N/A, don't even need to run a fuel return, and never have to make any manual adjustments to the fuel maps. Cost is around $2k for the full conversion including throttle body (with injectors in the TB, but nothing like the old TBI setups), lines, and fuel pump. Kauffman Racing did a back to back dyno comparison with that system vs. a well tuned carb, and difference in peak HP was within 2HP on the dyno.


----------



## snickerd3

Good to hear you are still alive!!! Expensive hobby...


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> Good to hear you are still alive!!! Expensive hobby...


Tell me about it. In actuality, it wasn't that bad. I built the car for the race, and bought all my safety gear, for under $6k. I figure for around $10k when all is said and done, I will have a very stout, reliable car that will need nothing but routine maintenance. Actually much cheaper than it cost to build my drag car, since this type of event is much more so driver skill and handling than it is power. There were cars with WAY less power than me with great suspensions and drivers who waxed my ass out there. A lot of the cars out there also shared drivers, e.g. buddies or husband/wife teams that both raced, so it's not a bad investment if that's what you're into. You can also get into this type of racing much cheaper as well. There were quite a few Miatas out there running great times in the $3k range.


----------



## MA_PE

lot of tough breaks but it sounds like you had a great time anyway. Lots of cool stories and glad you didn't get hurt or do some real damage to the car.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ this


----------



## pbrme

Wow, sounds like it was a good experience either way Supe! Took away some good knowledge... good luck in the future, glad to know you escaped the cliff. That would've made me pucker for sure.


----------



## blybrook PE

Eh Supe, sounds like fun; good to hear ya'll made it out safe and sound. Nothing like a hill climb to really test the vehicle out; at least you've vetted the problems out.


----------



## Supe

Couple shots that have popped up on Facebook. Crazy how much that car is squatting under power. Rear suspension is dropping roughly 2 inches!


----------



## MA_PE

I like your ninja turtle helmet.


----------



## Supe

Coincidentally enough, I received more comments/looks on it than the car itself, though I heard "that sure doesn't sound like a wankel" about 50 times.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> I like your ninja turtle helmet.


X2.



> I heard "that sure doesn't sound like a wankel" about 50 times.


Engine doesn't look like one, either...


----------



## mudpuppy

Capt Worley PE said:


> I heard "that sure doesn't sound like a wankel" about 50 times.
> 
> 
> 
> Engine doesn't look like one, either...
Click to expand...




mudpuppy said:


> That doesn't look like a Wankel.


Maybe we can say it at least 50 times


----------



## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I heard "that sure doesn't sound like a wankel" about 50 times.
> 
> 
> 
> Engine doesn't look like one, either...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> That doesn't look like a Wankel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe we can say it at least 50 times
Click to expand...

It doesn't look like a Necomen mill either...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I forgot how sensitive Subaru Sti owners are. A college friend posted on facebook that he just bought a new one, and I just responed "meh" in an attempt to give him $hit. Within 5 minutes, he was challenging me to a race up one of the narrow mountain roads in the area.


----------



## Supe

I've got a car you can borrow.


----------



## Master slacker

Tell him to redline and pop the clutch two or three times.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> I forgot how sensitive Subaru Sti owners are. A college friend posted on facebook that he just bought a new one, and I just responed "meh" in an attempt to give him $hit. Within 5 minutes, he was challenging me to a race up one of the narrow mountain roads in the area.


Ask him, "Will the tranny hold together that long?"


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Surprisingly, the two cars are very comperable. He would win in a mountain road course (barely) and I would win in a drag race (barely). The Camaro has a power-to-weight ratio of 9.1:1 versus the Sti's 11.3:1, but the Sti has a slighly better lateral acceleration. I think the only aspect the Sti is genuinely better at is the "all-weather" versatility.

Still prefer the Camaro though.


----------



## knight1fox3

Got a quote back for 4 new Goodyear Assurance Triple-Tred, $870. 

Continentals were even more...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Only $870?


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> Only $870?


So that's pretty decent then for a higher end tire I take it?


----------



## willsee

What size?


----------



## knight1fox3

willsee said:


> What size?


215/55R17


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Surprisingly, the two cars are very comperable. He would win in a mountain road course (barely) and I would win in a drag race (barely). The Camaro has a power-to-weight ratio of 9.1:1 versus the Sti's 11.3:1, but the Sti has a slighly better lateral acceleration. I think the only aspect the Sti is genuinely better at is the "all-weather" versatility.
> 
> Still prefer the Camaro though.


5.2:1 V8 Mazda for the win :bag:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

knight1fox3 said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Only $870?
> 
> 
> 
> So that's pretty decent then for a higher end tire I take it?
Click to expand...

Considering I spent over $1200 for mine, I would think it's pretty good. But then again, I'm running low-profile tires on 20" rims.


----------



## Master slacker

knight1fox3 said:


> willsee said:
> 
> 
> 
> What size?
> 
> 
> 
> 215/55R17
Click to expand...

Too bad you don't have 255/50R17.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ I've had the ecsta's before. Nice tires, but horrible in the snow. I lost traction going around a 55mph curve while going 30 and flipped my car in only 1" of snow.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ good to know....probably a good thing they don't carry the size for my car then.


----------



## Master slacker

WTF is snow?!?!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Wow..just...wow...

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3269393587.html


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Wow..just...wow...
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3269393587.html


With a 20' TV in the dash? It must unfold.


----------



## blybrook PE

a 20' TV? That's larger than the car!

I see what looks like a 17" flat screen in the dash, but that's still gonna be major distraction.

Overall, looks like a perfect bombing target for the military. Red Flag anyone?


----------



## Master slacker

$10k for a turd? No thanks


----------



## Road Guy

its my experience that most subaru owners are assholes... 

We give them shit cause they like to drive their "AWD" POS to the dirt roads to drive there mountain bikes to places that we like to drive our 4WD vehicles on.. usually there is a dirt road off the paved road where the Subaru owners like to park, off the dirt road there are "off road" trails where we like to play, the subaru's wouldnt make it very far... and they (mountain bikes) are generally in the way while were trying to wheel...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

A history of the Gremlin...yes, really.

http://ateupwithmotor.com/compact-and-economy-cars/53-amc-gremlin.html


----------



## Supe

May be headed to Mooresville this afternoon. Starting to get into aero packages for the RX7, and may be purchasing a take-off Nascar COT rear wing. 57 1/2" of carbon fiber goodness, at 1/8 the price of new, now that they're no longer used.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Very nice. Those wings had really good side-stability in addition to the downforce.


----------



## Master slacker

Dexman PE said:


> Those wings had really good side-stability in addition to the downforce.


... at 150 mph


----------



## Supe

Only time I'll approach that speed is at the track trials at Roebling Road. For hill climbs, I'm going to need a pretty heavy angle of attack to try to get any use out of it at the 60-110 mph range. The main purpose will be to try to offset the downforce from the splitter thats going on up front, which is going to make the car oversteer like a mother otherwise. I will have to fabricate new mounts for it as well, going to have to be muuuuuch taller than stock to get clean air, i.e. nearly at the roofline.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I don't think it would need to be that tall considering the aero-dynamic profile of the car. I wouldn't think the cab would create that much "dirty" air.


----------



## Road Guy

how do I tell if its the clutch or the transmission?

if I am doing a rolling stop, I can get it in 1st gear easy.. if I am at a stop there is a little effort needed to push it in 1st gear.. other gears all work fine...

???


----------



## blybrook PE

RG, here's an ol' farm trick:

Find yourself a sturdy tree that has a good hard pack around it (nothing your tires will spin on) and slowly put your front bumper tightly against it. Shift into first gear and let the vehicle return to idle. Now, ease out the clutch without touching the go pedal. If it stalls, your clutch is good &amp; working correctly. If it sits there and idles while NOT spinning the tires, you've got a clutch that's about shot. If you are spinning the tires, find another tree!

I've used telephone poles when I couldn't get close enough to the trees. Cement bollards or pole protectors in some parking lots will also work in a pinch.

EDIT - If you are having problems with one gear in particular, you may have a syncro going out with that gear. Some trans shops will do a free inspect and let you know.


----------



## Lumber Jim

my vote is clutch. Can you adjust the throw out of the clutch to verify??


----------



## blybrook PE

If it's a newer clutch (post early '80's) on a passenger vehicle, there is no adjustment as it's all hydraulic. You either got one or you don't (there is no in between). IIRC, the larger rigs still have a tendancy to continue use of the tried and true methods of the mechanical linkage; which you can adjust; but some are moving to the hydraulic system.

Which reminds me &amp; to prevent editing the above post again, check your clutch master fluid level. Should be DOT3 brake fluid (but check the cylinder cap to be certain). Typically low fluid levels will affect all gear changes though, not just those at a slow speed.


----------



## knight1fox3

blybrook PE said:


> I've used telephone poles when I couldn't get close enough to the trees.


So I'm guessing this is near where Blybrook lives then:


----------



## blybrook PE

knight1fox3 said:


> blybrook PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've used telephone poles when I couldn't get close enough to the trees.
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm guessing this is near where Blybrook lives then:
Click to expand...

Nah; that's where I *USED* to live! They ain't caught up with me yet for that one...

The dump truck tore up them yards pretty good too...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Road Guy said:


> how do I tell if its the clutch or the transmission?
> 
> if I am doing a rolling stop, I can get it in 1st gear easy.. if I am at a stop there is a little effort needed to push it in 1st gear.. other gears all work fine...
> 
> ???


I had that problem before and it ended being a poorly adjusted shift linkage. Usually had to put it in second to get it into first at a full stop.


----------



## Road Guy

its 99 (Jeep) I will give the tree thing a shot... when moving it shifts through all gears fairly flawlessly, its just the 1st and sometime 2nd gears you have to "work" to get it in gear if your stopped...

thanks!


----------



## roadwreck

I replaced my clutch not long ago. I could tell it was going because there would be a slight delay in acceleration while at speed. I'd be in gear, hit the gas, the engine would rev but there was a short but noticeable (to me) delay before the power seemed to be making it's way to the wheels.

I noticed on occasions it being difficult to shift into a gear (usually first or reverse) on both my car and my wife's car (both manuals). It doesn't happen all the time but when it does I usually just disengage and reengage the clutch and it goes right into gear. I've never really thought of it as a "problem", just a quirk. It doesn't happen that often though. Let me know if you actually find a problem.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

My bug oiled the clutch once. Nothing like having a slow car that you have to baby a LOT to avoid clutch slip.


----------



## Flyer_PE

roadwreck said:


> I noticed on occasions it being difficult to shift into a gear (usually first or reverse) on both my car and my wife's car (both manuals). It doesn't happen all the time but when it does I usually just disengage and reengage the clutch and it goes right into gear. I've never really thought of it as a "problem", just a quirk. It doesn't happen that often though. Let me know if you actually find a problem.


I've had that issue with every manual I have ever owned. If it won't go into first at at dead stop, drop it in second and it usually will then go into first with no problems. The other thing you can do is let the clutch out in neutral and then try again.


----------



## roadwreck

Flyer_PE said:


> roadwreck said:
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed on occasions it being difficult to shift into a gear (usually first or reverse) on both my car and my wife's car (both manuals). It doesn't happen all the time but when it does I usually just disengage and reengage the clutch and it goes right into gear. I've never really thought of it as a "problem", just a quirk. It doesn't happen that often though. Let me know if you actually find a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I've had that issue with every manual I have ever owned. If it won't go into first at at dead stop, drop it in second and it usually will then go into first with no problems. The other thing you can do is let the clutch out in neutral and then try again.
Click to expand...

I'll have to try putting it into second then back into first next time it happens. It's never really been a big issue, just an annoyance from time to time.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^It's a trick I picked up in high school while driving a '52 GMC pickup a friend had. 1st gear wasn't synchronized at all. Letting the clutch out slowly while holding a little pressure on the shifter will also move things enough to let it go into gear. That's about the only way I ever got my uncle's cattle truck to go in to granny low gear.


----------



## blybrook PE

^^ I agree with Flyer. The problem you are seeing Roadwreck is that your first and reverse gears are non-syncro'd. Older manuals were like that, those after late 90's have usually had syncros on first. Reverse is still typically an unsyncro'd gear to aid in the prevention of sliding it into reverse and dropping your transmission on the spot. Not saying that it doesn't happen, but they tried to make it very hard to do.

Sometimes you have to double clutch to get it into first gear; but if your gearing is as low as it is in my truck for that gear, you don't use it anyway unless you are pulling something really heavy (granny gear). I always start out in 2nd.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> its 99 (Jeep) I will give the tree thing a shot... when moving it shifts through all gears fairly flawlessly, its just the 1st and sometime 2nd gears you have to "work" to get it in gear if your stopped...
> 
> thanks!


This picture was forwarded to me earlier, it looks like RG's clutch is working fine to me:


----------



## Supe

Got my wing today, guy game down $100. Ended up leaving with a DEI protoype carbon fiber COT wing, a SPAL 3300 CFM fan, and some heat shield tubing for the price I was told originally over the phone!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Very nice supe!! Post pics once installed.


----------



## Supe

Going to be a PITA. If I were to mount it where the stock wing was, there would be too much leverage at that point and it will want to rip out the sheet metal. The COT mounts also complicate things as they're located inboard somewhat. So, I will probably end up making one forward strut/mount with clevis ends to support the front of the mount (they will come in at an angle), and then make a second strut that attaches straight down from the COT mount, and make it fasten to the area behind the hatch glass. This will give it the vertical support that it needs, some lateral support from the angular front mounts, and allow me to adjust the wing angle using the rear struts alone. If I use a quick release pin or lynch pin, I will able to remove it quickly to open the rear hatch as well.


----------



## knight1fox3

So I just put 4 new Goodyear tires on my Infiniti G35 and the front passenger-side tire kept losing air pressure. I filled it a couple times but the problem persisted. I took it back to the place that put the tires on for them to check it out. Seems that particular rim has a low spot in it (from a pothole or something). I wonder if I can find something used or re-certified instead of having to buy a brand new rim. Which I'm guessing is ridiculously expensive.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

craigslist is your friend.

You can also contact a local Wheel retailer, they typically have "take off's" from other cars who upgraded available for relatively cheap. I can replace my Camaro rims with basically brand new ones this way for ~$100/rim (which is really cheap for 20" rims).


----------



## Supe

Second Craigslist/eBay. Also, there may be someone in the area who can straighten it. AWRS is one company that comes to mine. I've got some Enkei race wheels that I may try to have straightened myself so I can resell them.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> craigslist is your friend.
> 
> You can also contact a local Wheel retailer, they typically have "take off's" from other cars who upgraded available for relatively cheap. I can replace my Camaro rims with basically brand new ones this way for ~$100/rim (which is really cheap for 20" rims).


Ya I tried Craigslist but no hits on anything for my make and model. I'll take a look around at other local wheel retailers. I did find this website that has OEM recycled/aftermarket car parts. They listed my wheels for $189 each. Just not sure what condition they are in.


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> Second Craigslist/eBay. Also, there may be someone in the area who can straighten it. AWRS is one company that comes to mine. I've got some Enkei race wheels that I may try to have straightened myself so I can resell them.


Thanks. AWRS did come up on a search but I'll have to get in touch with a local rep since they don't mention any pricing. The wheel in question might only need to be straightened.


----------



## Lumber Jim

knight1fox3 said:


> So I just put 4 new Goodyear tires on my Infiniti G35 and the front passenger-side tire kept losing air pressure. I filled it a couple times but the problem persisted. I took it back to the place that put the tires on for them to check it out. Seems that particular rim has a low spot in it (from a pothole or something). I wonder if I can find something used or re-certified instead of having to buy a brand new rim. Which I'm guessing is ridiculously expensive.


Had the same thing happen on my aluminum rims for the car. Turns out that you are supposed to use a bead locker compound (more or less rubber cement) on aluminum rims but there are alot of tire shops that do not use it because it can be messy and difficult to remove the tire in the future. I thought this was bull at first but it has solved the problem...

my two cents but I would try this before buying a new rim...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Be careful with straightening Aluminum rims. Once bent they will forever be "soft", and you might not be able to fix them at all. I had that same issue several years ago with the rims on my '98 Eclipse.


----------



## knight1fox3

Lumber Jim said:


> Had the same thing happen on my aluminum rims for the car. Turns out that you are supposed to use a bead locker compound (more or less rubber cement) on aluminum rims but there are alot of tire shops that do not use it because it can be messy and difficult to remove the tire in the future. I thought this was bull at first but it has solved the problem...
> 
> my two cents but I would try this before buying a new rim...


So you had to take your car back to whatever service shop and ask them to apply this compound or you did it yourself?



Dexman PE said:


> Be careful with straightening Aluminum rims. Once bent they will forever be "soft", and you might not be able to fix them at all. I had that same issue several years ago with the rims on my '98 Eclipse.


Great tip, thanks Dex.


----------



## Lumber Jim

knight1fox3 said:


> Lumber Jim said:
> 
> 
> 
> Had the same thing happen on my aluminum rims for the car. Turns out that you are supposed to use a bead locker compound (more or less rubber cement) on aluminum rims but there are alot of tire shops that do not use it because it can be messy and difficult to remove the tire in the future. I thought this was bull at first but it has solved the problem...
> 
> my two cents but I would try this before buying a new rim...
> 
> 
> 
> So you had to take your car back to whatever service shop and ask them to apply this compound or you did it yourself?
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful with straightening Aluminum rims. Once bent they will forever be "soft", and you might not be able to fix them at all. I had that same issue several years ago with the rims on my '98 Eclipse.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great tip, thanks Dex.
Click to expand...

Took it to a different car shop that actually knew what they were doing... when I asked about it (because when I first heard of it i thought it was hocus pocus) they knew what I was talking about and acknowledged that they typically only apply it on low profile aluminum rims but since I asked for it, they would do it.


----------



## Lumber Jim

I think the reasoning for low profile aluminum only is that aluminum components have to be thicker than their steel alternative which adds stiffness to the aluminum structure and therefore any inconsistency in the mating parts is more evident due to the lack of "flex". The low profile argument is due to a shallower bead seat on the rim and the angles required for the low profile tire bead to approach the seat.

at least this is how I have justified it in my head...


----------



## knight1fox3

I wonder if insurance covers this sort of thing with having comprehensive coverage....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Only if the repairs cost more than the deductible. Even then, it's usually better to handle it out of pocket.


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Be careful with straightening Aluminum rims. Once bent they will forever be "soft", and you might not be able to fix them at all. I had that same issue several years ago with the rims on my '98 Eclipse.


Whats the principal behind that? Aluminum work hardens, and the temper conditions are from heat treatment. I wouldn't expect a repaired aluminum rim to be softer unless it's been heated to bring it back to round, in which case, you've ruined the wheel anyways. That said, if its something more than a minor bump from a pothole, you need to take into account certain other considerations. Forged, vacuum cast, gravity cast, etc., all play into it.

As for applying sealant, we do it in drag racing too, albeit to keep the tire from spinning on the rims. When shops do it, it's primarily because low profile tires on aluminum wheels are often stretched, making it harder to seat and seat consistently. You just don't see many low profile tires mounted on steel wheels these days.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It depends on the magnitude of the bend. If it's minor, I agree that it should be ok to repair without any further issue. However, the rims I had issues with bent so much they had stress fractures. Once the material is "torn" you cant repair it by simply bending it back.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> I had that same issue several years ago with the rims on my '98 Eclipse.


Among others...


----------



## Rockettt

throw some rubber tire sealer on it and be done! i use it on all my stuff. plus helps keep the aluminum from corroding. have done it on my truck since new. other than messy it just ensures not having to pull the truck back in , take the rim back off....break the tire down..... etc etc. just had to do my sled trailer tire last night. nothing in NY ever seems to last long with salt. those were steelie wheels though.

actually now that i think about it, that black "good" rubber sealer they are doing away with and now using this more "eco-friendly" clear crap. it didnt seems to work as well and seemed thinner when I used it at the shop. or maybe that was all that was available. that black stuff is good! sticky sticky for them high HP cars at the strip.


----------



## knight1fox3

I ended up just getting a new rim from a parts outlet store for under $190. The tech I spoke to said the sealer would work for awhile but with the upcoming winter, he said there was no guarantee it would hold up and the problem would just show itself again. Which I tended to agree with since I wasn't even buying the rim from him. The rim was actually almost the same price as the tire ironically. They switched the tire over to the new rim free of charge too. Great service. Thanks for all the replies.


----------



## MA_PE

anyone have any opinions/knowledge on the Pontiac G6? I thinking of buying an '07 with ~27k miles on it.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I had one as a rental for a couple of days a few years ago. I think it was an '06 model. All I remember was that I hated the seats.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Not on the G6. If Pontiac lasted 1 more model year I'd be driving a G8 instead of the Camaro.


----------



## Master slacker

The G8 probably weighs less... oking:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Nope. G8 = 3950lbs, Camaro 3800. And they both rocked the Chevy LS3 V8, except the G8 didn't have the manual transmission option unless you went with the GXP.


----------



## Master slacker

I was pickin'. If only it could get down to Mustang weight. Too bad these cars are just becoming pigs with all the features and safety components.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Yep. Just read the article in Road &amp; Track from last month's issue comparing the new ZL1 to the GT500. The Mustang absolutely smokes the Camaro in the 1/4 mile due to the higher HP and lower weight, but the Camaro wins on the road track due to the wider rear tires, better weight distribution and better suspension (all adding to the higher weight).

In the end, both are so close it just comes down to preference.

Edit: Link http://www.roadandtrack.com/tests/comparison/2013-ford-mustang-shelby-gt500-vs.-2012-chevrolet-camaro-zl1


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I have been considering trading in the Camaro lately. I'm considering trading it in on a newer version of what I have, except it would have the 1LE package. The 1LE package is the transmission &amp; suspension from the ZL1.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2013-chevrolet-camaro-ss-1le-first-drive-review


----------



## Supe

Skip the Camaro at that price point and get a Boss 302.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> anyone have any opinions/knowledge on the Pontiac G6? I thinking of buying an '07 with ~27k miles on it.


They're not bad. Same chassis as my 07 Maxx, including the long wheel base, so the back seat is generous in the legroom category. Decent acceleration and mileage.

27K miles is low....is there story there?


----------



## MA_PE

It's a private sale in a local ad. I have not called yet, so I don't know. That's one of my biggest questions.


----------



## Master slacker

Good grief. A 285 is the widest tire that can fit on the Mustang? That's just embarassing. For the extra 8G's in price difference, I could have a pulley, tune, slicks out the wazoo, keep the warranty intact, and have a GT500 killer with enough left over to pay the insurance costs for years.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Skip the Camaro at that price point and get a Boss 302.


Except that it's a Ford...


----------



## MA_PE

Dexman PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Skip the Camaro at that price point and get a Boss 302.
> 
> 
> 
> Except that it's a Ford...
Click to expand...

yep. and a really nice one, too.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Skip the Camaro at that price point and get a Boss 302.
> 
> 
> 
> Except that it's a Ford...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yep. and a really nice one, too.
Click to expand...

I test drove a 2010 GT Mustang (the year before the 5.0 was released), and I was fairly impressed with it. If money was no object, I would probably have a Mustang in the garage next to the Camaro.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> It's a private sale in a local ad. I have not called yet, so I don't know. That's one of my biggest questions.


For comparison, I just turned 55K on mine, and I got it in 2008 with 23K miles on it. I'M low, but not that low.

Is it a coupe, four door, or retractable?


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Skip the Camaro at that price point and get a Boss 302.
> 
> 
> 
> Except that it's a Ford...
Click to expand...

And as a GM faithful, I'd rather have a Ford than anything new GM.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The one thing preventing me from trading in my 2010 for a 2013 Camaro is that I don't like the "tweaks" made in the new interior. I love how mine looks and drives as is. I may just spend the extra $ on upgrades to the current car.


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's a private sale in a local ad. I have not called yet, so I don't know. That's one of my biggest questions.
> 
> 
> 
> For comparison, I just turned 55K on mine, and I got it in 2008 with 23K miles on it. I'M low, but not that low.
> 
> Is it a coupe, four door, or retractable?
Click to expand...

retractable. That's the primary appeal.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's a private sale in a local ad. I have not called yet, so I don't know. That's one of my biggest questions.
> 
> 
> 
> For comparison, I just turned 55K on mine, and I got it in 2008 with 23K miles on it. I'M low, but not that low.
> 
> Is it a coupe, four door, or retractable?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> retractable. That's the primary appeal.
Click to expand...

Those are pretty cool. Haven't heard anything about the roof reliabilty, which probably indicates it is pretty reliable. I've heard nightmare stories about that multipanel sunroof available the first year or so.

They don't look good top up, that can be alleviated with a flip of the switch. I love the coupes. Wouldn't own one, but they look dang good.


----------



## MA_PE

I found a G6 forum last night and was looking through it as well as reading a few reviews. Consensus is that the roof mechanism is a pretty good design. One complaint was visibility to the rear. We have an '09 Cobalt 2dr and backing up in that thing sux. You can't see a thing.

I think styling is good with the G6 top up or down.

One interesting item was the top and window "position" sensors. Apparently it posiible for the sensors to lose track of the position of the windows or doors and then the motors won't move it all the way up or down. I don't think it's a pervasive problem but couls be a royal PITA should it occur.

I think I might check out this car.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Coming from someone who drives a car with the worlds largest C pillars, you get used to it. I typically only use my side mirrors when backing up or changing lanes anymore. You could black out my rear window and I would be fine.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> I think I might check out this car.


Definitely.

Only real issue I'd have with it is trunk space with the top down. The chassis (Epsilon)/engine combo is one of the unheralded design triumphs of old GM. Good solid car.


----------



## mudpuppy

Dexman PE said:


> Coming from someone who drives a car with the worlds largest C pillars, you get used to it. I typically only use my side mirrors when backing up or changing lanes anymore. You could black out my rear window and I would be fine.


I rented a Camaro a couple months ago. . .had the reverse camera and that was pretty handy.

I'll say the only convertible I've ever driven (a '96 Mustang) had the same problem.... tiny rear window.

Truck drivers can't see out the back, so if you're careful you shouldn't have to either, right.


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think I might check out this car.
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely.
> 
> Only real issue I'd have with it is trunk space with the top down. The chassis (Epsilon)/engine combo is one of the unheralded design triumphs of old GM. Good solid car.
Click to expand...

yeah. I found online that trunk space with top up is 12cf, with top down it's 2cf. That really doesn't bother me at all.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^^So? You check it out?


----------



## MA_PE

I called on the ad and it was already gone.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Didn't take long...


----------



## MA_PE

Apparently. I'm not in need of another car right now, but it caught my eye as a good price. I guess it was.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Instead of trading in the car, I think I'll just work on customizing my own suspension.

Unfortunately, I don't really know all that much about suspensions. So far, from a hard component standpoint I'm looking at upgrading the sway bars, end links, trailing arms and toe rods. I'm also looking to upgrade several of the bushings (sub frame, front radius arm, differential, rear cradle, control arms, and steering rack mount).

From what I've found, parts to do all this with "middle-of-the-road" upgrades (not cheapo, but not pro/high-end) will run me ~$1500 plus labor.

Thoughts?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Which is better and why?

CJ5 or Wrangler?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Some are talored more for drag racing versus auto-crossing. They all work together to get more power from the engine to the wheels and keep the car pointed in the right direction.

2010 Camaro


----------



## Flyer_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Which is better and why?
> 
> CJ5 or Wrangler?


CJ5: C.W. McCall put it in a song.


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Instead of trading in the car, I think I'll just work on customizing my own suspension.
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't really know all that much about suspensions. So far, from a hard component standpoint I'm looking at upgrading the sway bars, end links, trailing arms and toe rods. I'm also looking to upgrade several of the bushings (sub frame, front radius arm, differential, rear cradle, control arms, and steering rack mount).
> 
> From what I've found, parts to do all this with "middle-of-the-road" upgrades (not cheapo, but not pro/high-end) will run me ~$1500 plus labor.
> 
> Thoughts?


IMO, the switch from fresh, rubber bushings to poly often offers little to no improvement, and the poly has a tendency to squeak and bind.

That said, for middle of the road street car stuff, I like BMR and Hotchkis.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I'm back and forth between Pedders, LSR, and BMR with the sways and end links. The LSR and BMR sways are 3-way adjustable front &amp; rear (LSR seems to be stiffer), whereas the Pedders offers solid bars and even a ZL1 conversion for my SS. Unfortunately I can't seem to find much as far as comparisons between them all. I keep leaning towards the BMR stuff because that's what the local Camaro Club guys use and seem to like.


----------



## Supe

Stiffness in sway bars is overrated, especially when being too stiff at the front end can lead to significant understeer. Same goes for the adjustable end links - largely useless other than being able to set it to neutral, and fairly ineffective IMO unless its been set neutral with the driver in the car and the car's been corner weighted. I've never seen the LSR stuff up close, but from the pics, they don't look as beefy as the BMR pieces do. I used to have a set of double adjustable BMR control arms for a G Body, and you could probably lift a house with one.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Enough talk from people who know what their talking about. Time for another n00b question.

So, about 1.5 years ago, I walked out of a casino at about 2 am and tried to start my car. It was dead. The roaming security car jumped it with a battery booster pack, but when I popped the hood, we noticed a ton of corrosion on the battery terminals. I haven't had a dead battery since, and I haven't done anything to correct the problem.

Today after work, I stopped at the local oil change joint. They also noticed a ton of corrosion on my battery terminals and cleaned it as part of their normal routine. When they were done, I tried to start the car...and it would turn over. They had to give me a jump.

It's time for a new battery anyway (~50k miles), but I am just wondering what the deal is with all that corrosion. Is it something with the car or just a bad battery? I don't want to replace the battery just to have it happen again.


----------



## knight1fox3

wilheldp_PE said:


> Enough talk from people who know what their talking about. Time for another n00b question.
> 
> So, about 1.5 years ago, I walked out of a casino at about 2 am and tried to start my car. It was dead. The roaming security car jumped it with a battery booster pack, but when I popped the hood, we noticed a ton of corrosion on the battery terminals. I haven't had a dead battery since, and I haven't done anything to correct the problem.
> 
> Today after work, I stopped at the local oil change joint. They also noticed a ton of corrosion on my battery terminals and cleaned it as part of their normal routine. When they were done, I tried to start the car...and it would turn over. They had to give me a jump.
> 
> It's time for a new battery anyway (~50k miles), but I am just wondering what the deal is with all that corrosion. Is it something with the car or just a bad battery? I don't want to replace the battery just to have it happen again.


I did some looking into this not too long ago myself. Basically, every time you put two different (dis-similar) metals together one becomes the anode and one becomes the cathode. When you pass electricity through them the anode then corrodes. The battery terminals on most if not all car batteries are lead. The terminal clamps can be made of stamped steel, or possibly coated copper, which would produce the best for current flow and draw, but would also make the outside of your battery (especially at the clamps) like the inside of your battery. The cells inside a battery are the same basic composition. There are 2 dis-similar metals, one part lead, the other is generally copper. This with the electrolytic solution (battery acid) creates current. The corrosion you see is due to the dis-similar metals. As this happens over time, it's not very prevalent in newer batteries, but rather older batteries. A solution of baking soda and water will clean it right up using an old toothbrush (may also protect against future corrosion for awhile). I've been told you can also buy (local auto parts store) a coating to spray on the terminals that prevents oxygen penetration.


----------



## blybrook PE

The corrosion is hard to prevent as K1F3 notes above. Utilizing baking soda solution works well for cleaning the top of the battery and the posts of the old corrosion (a can of coke does wonders too, but leaves a sticky film). The spray coatings from the autoparts store are decent, but there's a cheaper alternative (see below). This cleaning should occur yearly (preferably before winter) when you go over the vehicle to ensure everything is good for another winter. Be sure to check all the connections as a bad connection can cause battery drain as you've already experienced.

If a jump is getting you started, but it's not kicking off on its own otherwise, it may be the battery, it could be a bad connection or the cable itself has started to corrode internally and need repair / replacement. Sometimes, you'll have to change out a cable or two. If you have a NAPA, CarQuest, O'Rielly Auto or similar chain autoparts store, ask the counter folk if they'll test your battery / alternator in the vehicle. This will help diagnose the problem without going to the shop and you can't beat the price (usually free!).

If you find you have a bad cable end, don't get the bolt on replacement clamps to fix a cable unless it's all you can get to get you to a better parts store; they have a bad tendancy to break. Always try to get the correct cable for the job, one that is crimped and/or soldered into place as they'll last a LOT longer.

Now, for something to help combat the corrosion, if you have any grease guns, or even wheel bearing grease, coat the battery terminal with grease before putting on the clamps, it won't take much to get it done. The grease doesn't seem to wear off as quickly as the autoparts spray bottle and repels moisture better.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

The guys at the quick lube place told me that when I get the battery replaced, I'm going to need new cables (or at least clamps). I'm putting it in the shop tomorrow morning for a brake job and general tune-up, so I'm just going to tell them to give me a new battery and cables while they're at it. I was just worried that maybe something was wrong with my car that would cause a new battery to have the same problem. I've never had it happen with previous cars.


----------



## Supe

Usually the only thing that can wipe out a battery (other than age) is a failing alternator. If that were the case, your battery would be dying frequently and/or cranking over very slowly.


----------



## pbrme

The parts stores will also throw in some de-Ox w/ the battery purchase. It's usually a clear or red grease that you apply to the terminals and clamps. There's also a green and red felt washer w/ the same stuff on it to slip around the terminals first. I've never had corrosion issues using these.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ I've only used the felt washers. Never needed the grease.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

They replaced the battery and one of the clamps (not sure which one) and they said it's running like a champ. No problems with the alternator.


----------



## pbrme

So where did this ever go to? I've heard some discussion lately in here.


----------



## jeb6294

Capt Worley PE said:


> Which is better and why?
> 
> CJ5 or Wrangler?


Wrangler

CJ-5 wheelbase is too short and the frame on the Wrangler is better.


----------



## Supe

Paint and body guy told me I need new hood hinges. Anybody know of a source for a set of hood hinges for a 73 Pontiac Catalina? Not exactly an Autozone special...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

If it's compatable with a 1970 Bonneville:

http://denver.craigs...3338332218.html


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> Paint and body guy told me I need new hood hinges. Anybody know of a source for a set of hood hinges for a 73 Pontiac Catalina? Not exactly an Autozone special...


Not a car guru by any means, but would any of these work? http://motors.shop.e...70.l1313&amp;_rdc=1 Some of the descriptions say "fits Catalina". :dunno:


----------



## blybrook PE

Supe said:


> Paint and body guy told me I need new hood hinges. Anybody know of a source for a set of hood hinges for a 73 Pontiac Catalina? Not exactly an Autozone special...


Go to RockAuto online. If they don't have it, you'll be going to the pick-n-pull to find one. I've found a bunch of parts for my IH Scouts there that O'Rielly and Napa couldn't get!


----------



## Master slacker

Home Depot and Lowe's both have all types of hinges. Pick out a good one, get some machine screws, and BAM! you're in business.


----------



## MA_PE

Ever been to the PerformanceYears forum. They'd definitely set you up. Ames performance is big on pontiac too


----------



## MA_PE

Ever been to the PerformanceYears forum. They'd definitely set you up. Ames performance is big on pontiac too


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Ever been to the PerformanceYears forum. They'd definitely set you up. Ames performance is big on pontiac too


Yep, have a lead off of PY to give a call tomorrow. Classical Pontiac is another, I used to live on there.


----------



## MA_PE

I forgot about CP. I hang around transamcountry.com they are mostly 2nd gen firebirds but there are a few people with big cars. I'll post on there and see if anyone can help


----------



## MA_PE

Supe might have a lead on some hinges for you. I'll PM you the info when I get it.


----------



## Supe

Cool, thanks!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Since there will soon be a flood (haha) of water damaged cars on the market, here's some hints for spotting a water damaged vehicle.

http://updates.jalopnik.com/post/34656533623/how-to-identify-a-formerly-flooded-car


----------



## knight1fox3

Thought this was pretty cool.

/&gt;http://photosandfun.com/Humor/OldFarmShed.php


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Get the price cut in half and this might make a good Mad Max-ish ride.

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3327748233.html


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA?

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3394400646.html


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA?
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3394400646.html


Nice. Looks like he's somewhat realistic on the price too. I like the graphics.


----------



## Lumber Jim

^^^ So are you going to buy it or are you the one selling it?


----------



## MA_PE

I think the Cap'n should pick it up. He knows I like 2nd generation F-bodies


----------



## envirotex

All it needs is a pr0n stache...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Or Burt Reynolds...


----------



## MA_PE

I'll get you, you summbitch!


----------



## MA_PE

GM Hertiage collection. Very cool.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?feature=endscreen&amp;=R=1&amp;v=RvVmDsWnMOk


----------



## Supe

Finally finished my wing this morning on the RX-Ain't. If you look at the top of the wing in the middle, it actually still has "DEI W.T." still on top of it, as it was one of the DEI wind tunnel test wings.


----------



## MA_PE

nice. that's a Subaru street car right? j/k good install Supe.Hope it works well for you.


----------



## Supe

No, but it's a Mazda street car. Has plates and everything...

Should come in handy. My buddy just ran Roebling Road down near Savannah which is on our events list next year. He makes about 100 hp less and in a car that weighs about 500 lbs more, and he was hitting 140 mph on the 5/8 mile stretch before you dive into a 180 degree turn. Sure hope the dang thing works!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

You gonna put a TypeR sticker on it? Those things are worth 50hp at the wheels.


----------



## Supe

No, just going to fit as many VTEC stickers on it as humanly possible.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^It's kickin' in, yo.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

+50hp right here...


----------



## Rockettt

ill send a bowtie decal for xmas?


----------



## Lumber Jim

Changed out a front strut on my car last night. What a pain!! I had a few chioce words for the engineer that designed the mounting in regard to the lack of serviceability after hour 2. Will be attempting the other front strut tonight but with scabs on my knuckles from last night...

if there was about a 1/2" more travel in the assembly, it would have been a cake walk!!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've got a couple fun projects lined up for me on the car. The first being the installation of a separate clutch fluid reservoir. The factory system has the brakes and clutch systems utilizing the same system, but for $60 in parts you can separate them to keep the brake system from slowly eating through the clutch (and vice versa). The second project is the installation of bushing inserts for the subframe and radius arm mounts on the car. They're supposed to help with body roll and tighten up the steering.


----------



## pbrme

The wifes car is finally showing signs of needing replacement. She drives a hand-me-down 85' firebird with a 350/400. She went to start it on Monday on her way to her clinical site and ended up having to take a cab. I got home and got it into the garage, the starter or flywheel seems eff'd. It cranks for a little, then *wzvvvvvvv* stater spins out. Try again, same thing. From previous experience, this is either a broken tooth on the flywheel ring gear or on the bendix gear. Told her I'd look into it on the weekend, but she doesn't want to invest time/money and is ready for something new. I don't blame her, rolling up to work as aspiring Nurse Practitioner while displaying the throwback 80's motif isn't encouraging.

We're waiting for our house refi to close (couple days) and then we're going shopping. I'll probably put some time/effort into fixing up the bird, so we can at least try to unload it. Will be looking at 4runners for replacement.


----------



## blybrook PE

Yeah, that sounds like a chipped tooth. Pretty easy to check for it, just pull the starter and look inside the housing. Had a car do that for quite a while; we just put it in gear and pushed it 5' to 6' to get it to where the starter would catch again.

Usually they are a pain to fix, either have to pull the engine or drop the trans. Good luck.


----------



## MA_PE

pbrme said:


> rolling up to work as aspiring Nurse Practitioner while displaying the throwback 80's motif isn't encouraging.


That's because it's downright intimidating. Is it a Formula?


----------



## envirotex

blybrook PE said:


> Had a car do that for quite a while; we just put it in gear and pushed it 5' to 6' to get it to where the starter would catch again.


Been there, done that.

Also, while in college and too poor to buy parts, had to bypass a bad solenoid with a screwdriver to get the starter to turn. Nothing gets more looks than basically hot wiring your car in the parking lot every time you go some where.


----------



## Supe

Lumber Jim said:


> Changed out a front strut on my car last night. What a pain!! I had a few chioce words for the engineer that designed the mounting in regard to the lack of serviceability after hour 2. Will be attempting the other front strut tonight but with scabs on my knuckles from last night...
> 
> if there was about a 1/2" more travel in the assembly, it would have been a cake walk!!


That probably won't hurt as bad as having to pay for these stupid Ground Control coilovers for the RX7. Suckers are $1700! Going to have to save my pennies up for a while to get them.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> rolling up to work as aspiring Nurse Practitioner while displaying the throwback 80's motif isn't encouraging.
> 
> 
> 
> That's because it's downright intimidating. Is it a Formula?
Click to expand...

The sad thing is that as much as I love ThirdGens, my Malibu Maxx has more hp than all but the 350 TPIs.


----------



## Lumber Jim

Supe said:


> Lumber Jim said:
> 
> 
> 
> Changed out a front strut on my car last night. What a pain!! I had a few chioce words for the engineer that designed the mounting in regard to the lack of serviceability after hour 2. Will be attempting the other front strut tonight but with scabs on my knuckles from last night... if there was about a 1/2" more travel in the assembly, it would have been a cake walk!!
> 
> 
> 
> That probably won't hurt as bad as having to pay for these stupid Ground Control coilovers for the RX7. Suckers are $1700! Going to have to save my pennies up for a while to get them.
Click to expand...

You're right. I don't remember who on this board suggested it but I got a smoking good deal on the parts at rockauto.com (one of them was half price and the prices were already lower than anybody around). Total cost was $230 for monroe struts and mounts for the front. The auto shop quoted me ~$1000 dollars for the same parts with labor to install them!!

By the way, I got the other strut installed last night and only busted my knuckles once! Still took about an 1.5 hours of messing around and prying though...


----------



## Lumber Jim

^^^^ $230 included shipping from Texas!!


----------



## blybrook PE

Yeah, that's one of the reasons I've been getting parts from Rock Auto and recommend them to others. They got the best prices when compared to local shops and shipping to AK is better than anywhere else.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I remember it taking me and my brother the better part of a Saturday to install a 2" lift kit on my Pathfinder a few years ago. The suspension was old and needed replaced, and through some research discovered that it was cheaper to install a 2" lift than to buy factory replacements. I think we paid ~$800 for shocks/struts and springs. The challenging part was trying to get all the bolts removed as they had been untouched for almost 80k miles.


----------



## blybrook PE

Dex, that's when you break out the blue wrench. It's the best tool for most jobs dealing with rusted / old / crusty bolts. Just be careful with it; otherwise you'll set the rig on fire or melt the wrong wire.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

We had a 2' breaker bar in full force by the end. That and probably a gallon of WD-40...


----------



## Lumber Jim

blybrook PE said:


> Yeah, that's one of the reasons I've been getting parts from Rock Auto and recommend them to others. They got the best prices when compared to local shops and shipping to AK is better than anywhere else.


Thanks Bly!! it saved me a ton of money... Next project: air conditioner compressor and filter...


----------



## blybrook PE

Dex, breaker bars are great tools; especially with the cheater pipe. They work great when you can't get to the blue wrench!

Lumber, yer welcome. Good luck on your other projects.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Never used a blue wrench. I'd probably burn the house down if I tried...


----------



## Supe

Yanked the front bumper off the RX7 last night. Will be picking up a 4x8 sheet of ABS on Monday to craft an air dam for it to make the front splitter more effective. Ought to get interesting!


----------



## pbrme

blybrook PE said:


> Yeah, that sounds like a chipped tooth. Pretty easy to check for it, just pull the starter and look inside the housing. Had a car do that for quite a while; we just put it in gear and pushed it 5' to 6' to get it to where the starter would catch again.
> 
> Usually they are a pain to fix, either have to pull the engine or drop the trans. Good luck.


They are a pain. The last one I did involved dropping the trans. and took the better part of a day. The worst of it is, I'll probably have to fix it anyway in order to get rid of it.



MA_PE said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> rolling up to work as aspiring Nurse Practitioner while displaying the throwback 80's motif isn't encouraging.
> 
> 
> 
> That's because it's downright intimidating. Is it a Formula?
Click to expand...

Nope, just a faded maroon mullet attractor. Probably looked exactly like this in it's prime:







Now, it's 1/4 the way to this:


----------



## pbrme

Supe said:


> Yanked the front bumper off the RX7 last night. Will be picking up a 4x8 sheet of ABS on Monday to craft an air dam for it to make the front splitter more effective. Ought to get interesting!


Would love to know more about working with ABS. How do you work/shape it, etc. Could you do a DIY thread or something? Have some projects in mind, but have never done worked with polys/fiberglass/carbon etc.


----------



## pbrme

Dexman PE said:


> We had a 2' breaker bar in full force by the end. That and probably a gallon of WD-40...


Need to get your hands on some of this stuff: PB &gt; WD


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Barnaby Jones, your car is here!

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3274300853.html


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Barnaby Jones, your car is here!
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3274300853.html


That's a good lookin ride.


----------



## MGX

You can rock a Camaro easily enough. Its called Motley Crue and should be played at maximum volume from the cassette tape player.


----------



## MA_PE

MGX said:


> You can rock a Camaro easily enough. Its called Motley Crue and should be played at maximum volume from the 8-track cassette tape player.


fixed it for you.


----------



## pbrme

MGX said:


> You can rock a Camaro easily enough. Its called Motley Crue and should be played at maximum volume from the cassette tape player.


If I get to dig into fixing up the bird, I'm going to wire it to play _"Here I go again on my owwwn... Goin' down the only road I've ever known..."_ over the speakers every time the turn signal's used. Probably put a toggle switch on it tho... for resale purposes.


----------



## knight1fox3

pbrme said:


> MGX said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can rock a Camaro easily enough. Its called Motley Crue and should be played at maximum volume from the cassette tape player.
> 
> 
> 
> If I get to dig into fixing up the bird, I'm going to wire it to play _"Here I go again on my owwwn... Goin' down the only road I've ever known..."_ over the speakers every time the turn signal's used. Probably put a toggle switch on it tho... for resale purposes.
Click to expand...

Sure thing Frank the Tank. :thumbs:


----------



## pbrme

knight1fox3 said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MGX said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can rock a Camaro easily enough. Its called Motley Crue and should be played at maximum volume from the cassette tape player.
> 
> 
> 
> If I get to dig into fixing up the bird, I'm going to wire it to play _"Here I go again on my owwwn... Goin' down the only road I've ever known..."_ over the speakers every time the turn signal's used. Probably put a toggle switch on it tho... for resale purposes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sure thing Frank the Tank. :thumbs:
Click to expand...

No I really can't, we've got a big day planned tomorrow... gonna go to home de... okay, just one.... just one


----------



## Supe

pbrme said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yanked the front bumper off the RX7 last night. Will be picking up a 4x8 sheet of ABS on Monday to craft an air dam for it to make the front splitter more effective. Ought to get interesting!
> 
> 
> 
> Would love to know more about working with ABS. How do you work/shape it, etc. Could you do a DIY thread or something? Have some projects in mind, but have never done worked with polys/fiberglass/carbon etc.
Click to expand...

Sure, I can make some notes as I go along. Nothing fancy here really, as I'm really just making a gradual curve with it. May make a diffuser out of it too though, but will let you know. The main thing is using a fairly coarse blade when cutting, and cutting slow. It likes to melt and fuse back over on itself.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> MGX said:
> 
> 
> 
> You can rock a Camaro easily enough. Its called Motley Crue and should be played at maximum volume from the 8-track cassette tape player.
> 
> 
> 
> fixed it for you.
Click to expand...

1983, you couldn't hardly find 8-tracks.

"He's the wolf screaming lonely in the night

He's the blood stain on the stage..."


----------



## pbrme

pbrme said:


> The wifes car is finally showing signs of needing replacement. She drives a hand-me-down 85' firebird with a 350/400. She went to start it on Monday on her way to her clinical site and ended up having to take a cab. I got home and got it into the garage, the starter or flywheel seems eff'd. It cranks for a little, then *wzvvvvvvv* stater spins out. Try again, same thing. From previous experience, this is either a broken tooth on the flywheel ring gear or on the bendix gear. Told her I'd look into it on the weekend, but she doesn't want to invest time/money and is ready for something new. I don't blame her, rolling up to work as aspiring Nurse Practitioner while displaying the throwback 80's motif isn't encouraging.
> 
> We're waiting for our house refi to close (couple days) and then we're going shopping. I'll probably put some time/effort into fixing up the bird, so we can at least try to unload it. Will be looking at 4runners for replacement.


So I dug into the bird over the weekend. Put the car up and took out the starter. Rolled the flex plate, all the teeth on the ring gear were good (what a relief). New starter and battery slapped back in. Tried to crank, and it started acting like it was starved for gas w/ a hint of gummed up spark plugs. Back to parts store for a new fuel filter and some starting fluid. Couldn't find an inline can filter anywhere underneath, so I replaced the stock paper one in the 4bbl. Shot the intake with the go juice and the beast roared. Ran it for a good 10 min. as it started to simmer down, and burn all the junk out. Changed the squeeky belts, and ran it again. Everything seemed to be running okay.

Wife went to start the bird this morning, and couldn't get it to crank over. UckFe, So guess what I get to do again tonight? Yeah, that's him right there... he was up in it, lovin' it strong.


----------



## snickerd3

mr snick took the company car in for an oil change today...they couldn't get the oil filter off. Looks like the last place he took it to used some sort of pneumatic tool to put in on and overtightened it by a lot. The place wouldn't touch it further. now he has to find someone that will.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I prefer to use the screwdriver method when it comes to taking off oil filters. It makes one hell of a mess, but they come off everytime...


----------



## blybrook PE

Gotta be careful with the newer filters and the screwdriver method; their making them with much thinner metal these days. Also, they've extended the threads so far into the filter, it's tough to not bugger 'em up! I've seen quite a few get ripped apart before they ever break loose. Goes to show that one must ensure that the filter o-ring is to be properly lubricated before installation! Otherwise, yer in for a hell of a time getting it off!


----------



## Lumber Jim

If you can crinkle the filter a bit and use a chain wrench to grab onto the ridges that you made it will also coax the thing to turn, usually (from experience on my truck). when in doubt, soak the stuck filter with your favorite penetrating oil (WD 40, etc) to help soften a baked and crusty seal...


----------



## Supe

Rubber strap wrenches also do wonders on a stuck oil filter.


----------



## pbrme

Anyone have any quadrajet experience. The bird is cranking, but no sparky firey, just the starter rev'ing up the flywheel. Sputters a little when I press the accelerator but cuts out when I stop. Can't get the damn thing to fire over. Seems like it's starving for fuel on a cold start. A youtube video says to check the vaccuum hoses, and they are loose and cracked etc. Probably worry about it tomorrow, you will not break me Ivan Drago. Time to check the fluid levels on another PBR. Sheesh this been a long day and a half.


----------



## blybrook PE

Vehicles need three things to start/run: air, fuel and spark. With the carb; you'll have plenty of air, testing for fuel is next.

With a helper and the air cleaner off, disconnect the coil to prevent spark/backfire then have helper crank over the engine while you look down the carb body. If you see good jets of fuel entering the throat (you may need to hold open the choke plate); then its not a fuel problem and its time to check spark.

If you don't have a jet of fuel while cranking; you most likely have crap in the bowl that is blocking the needle valve. If this is the case, carefully open the carb while on the motor and clean the bowl, float, needle seat and needle valve. I say carefully as there's usually a couple small springs that can give you future grief. Crank engine over with the carb open to push any line crud out (wear safety goggles as the fuel will shoot out at high pressure!!!). Then reassemble the carb and look down the throat again while your helper cranks it over. If it looks good, reconnect coil and try to start again. If you don't feel comfortable doing disassembly while on the engine, pull carb and rebuild on bench.

If you have good fuel and air, that leaves spark. Could be a few different things; timing, bad coil, bad distributer, cracked rotor or faulty plugs/wires. First test timing with a timing light if you have one. Another good tool is a handheld spark tester; otherwise its leather gloves, pliers and a spare plug.

Starting with the coil, remove wire going to distributor and connect to plug; hold plug 1/4 inch or so from block and crank engine over; you should have a good blue spark as the coil fires. If not, swap coils and repeat test. Oh, do this without any extra light shining under the hood! Next move to distributor cap and inspect it and the rotor for pitting or burns. Sand with emery cloth or replace as necessary. Then repeat the spark test with each wire to test the wires out. Pull plugs as necessary to check gaps, burn deposits and overall condition.

If you cannot get a helper, a push button remote start switch on the starter solenoid is another good tool to keep on hand. These are usually cheap &lt;$10 and last a long time if properly cared for.

Remember not to crank more than 30sec at a time to prevent starter burnout and excessive battery drain. Good luck. Its hard to explain the above sometimes. If you have questions, give a shout tomorrow.


----------



## Lumber Jim

^ Bly has this figured out. I would like to add one suggestion in addition to what he has said. A quick way to test your theory for not enough fuel is to help things along with a sprtay bottle of gas. I usually steal a cleaning bottle from under the sink in the kitchen, rinse it with gas, and fill it with gas. Using a screw driver to cross the leads on the solenoid to get the engine turning, I spray the gas directly into the carb. If the engine starts, fuel problem, If the engine doesn't start, follow the rest of Bly's instructions.

Oh, and be careful with the gas and arcing the leads on the soleniod. Sparks and gas make FIRE. It's best to keep that combination inside the engine.


----------



## MA_PE

pbr: two good online resources

transamcountry.com

thirdgen.org


----------



## pbrme

Thanks for the tips fellas, and all the details Bly! Don't know if I'll get to it tonight, I won't be home this evening until after 7pm, and then heading for Montana tomorrow AM. I'd question the spark scenario, as I just replaced the whole system; cap, rotor, plugs, wires on it less than 6 mo ago. It seems it's been running a little rich, left black smoke tracks across the garage floor the night I got I running, so there could be some fouling.


----------



## blybrook PE

Yer welcome PBR. I've had to delve into the carburetors heavily since two of my rigs have them and I like to keep them running (one is my plow truck). The g/f wasn't all too happy about my rebuilding the one on the kitchen table a few winters back, but that's what happens when you don't have a garage to work in. I do a LOT of shade tree mechanics, so getting the details out of my head is the easy part, putting them into words easily understood is something else entirely.

Since you feel good about the spark situation, I'd still check the timing. If you were messing with the distributor, you may have bumped it slightly and caused the hold down bolt to come loose. As time goes on and miles are put on the rig,the entire assembly can rotate, ultimately causing the timing to get off; this will also lead to it running rich as it'll fire sooner than it should. Usually it will be on all cylinders instead of just one bank.

But if one bank is historically running richer than the other; I'd focus my energy on the carb; especially if you've got two fuel bowls, one of the needle valves is probably sticking. Most carb systems don't have the overpressure returns of today's computerized / fuel injected rigs; so it gets dumped down the intake.

Good luck on the diagonsis side of things, it can be a tedious project at times.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I wonder if anyone has stuck the turbo Ecotec from the Soltice/Sky into a Cosworth Vega.

An Ecotec H-bod sounds pretty cool, too.


----------



## pbrme

The 85' firebird lives! Turned out to be bad vacuum hoses. A couple of them had some pretty significant cracks/holes and most of them were pretty brittle. This brings the list to: New starter, battery, vacuum hoses, plugs, wires, rotor, cap &amp; replaced the clamp around the power steering line. It was pretty cruddy, and spewing fluid all over the place. Cold start is still a little rough, but idles fine at around 750. Now to give it a "here I go again on my own" sound mod to the turn signals, and It'll be ready for a trade-in.


----------



## pbrme

Well our home refi is complete, so now it's time to retire the bird (just after I got it running no less). Doing some shopping tonight on a used 2005 4Runner. It's a clean Limited trim option, power moon roof, racks, tow hitch, and has 111k on it. They're asking 16.5k so we'll see how much they value the power 80's trade-in. If not I might have to Craig's list it or something.


----------



## MA_PE

7/8 years old and 111k and they want $16.5k? wow.

My brother just got rid of an '03 4-wheel Suburban with ~130k and they gave him $3500. He went online on one of these "we buy your car" sites. The site had a detailed form to fill out and comes back with an assessed value. It says if you're truthful, that's what they'll pay you. He came up at $6500, so he figured he'd give it a shot. He goes to the dealer, with my SIL following so they can leave the Suburban behind, and the guy ran "his own version of the program" and came back at $3k. My brother told him to screw (he did not like the salesman's attitude).

So he does it again and comes up with the same value. Takes it to another local wholesale buyer. This guy gives him a similar song but came across as a sort of decent fellow. My brother just wanted the car gone so he took he the cash. You know that suburban is on a lot somewhere for $8500-$10000.


----------



## mudpuppy

Used cars is where dealers make their money. They don't make much at all on new cars. (My dad sold cars for 20+ years). The big dealers pump out the new car sales and eke out a little profit just on volume, but they turn over the used cars for their real profits.


----------



## Flyer_PE

How much you get for your used car is directly associated with how much you want to deal with the PITA of selling yourself.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Selling a car via craigslist isn't that bad. Find your price, add a small % for negotiations, and stick to your guns.

I bought a 96 Bronco for $2k, did some small fixes to it, then listed it for $3500 knowing I only wanted $3k. After a couple of weeks, someone finally came by, liked what they saw and bought it for $3k. Had my own bill of sale drafted up, he signed it. Done deal.


----------



## Road Guy

I've bought and sold off Craigslist and its just how much of the game you want to play...

I've had a decent experience with car max also, but that was 7+ years ago...

I've had a few old cars I just wanted to go away...


----------



## pbrme

Here it is lads, the new addition to the family. The 2005 4Runner, limited w/ most all options, 111k miles, for $15.2k this evening. Was probably still $500 too high based on the KBB for Private Party but this was through a Toyota dealer and I didn't feel like nickle pinching those poor bastards any more. It's a nice ride (till something breaks, science forbid...), would have probably wondered off soon if I didn't make a move. JSYK, I was told by the financing guy at the end that we just made some 13' cutoff date for the rates we got, in case anyone is out looking. We locked in a 60mo. for 2.75% w/ sub $250/mo payments but will be shooting our eye out to pay this pup off by xmas next year. ......._HO... HO... HO!_


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^^My sister has one of those. I think it is an 08, though.


----------



## MA_PE

Nice, I hope it treats you well.


----------



## Master slacker

I forget if the '05 V6's fell in the oil sludge years, but take care of the oil.


----------



## mudpuppy

Time for a 6" lift and 33s, like my friends did to their 4runner.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^The redneck in me thinks those trucks look cool. The :wv: farmer in me always wondered why anybody would raise the center of gravity and put the tailgate that much higher off the ground.


----------



## mudpuppy

So you can do this:


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Flyer_PE said:


> ^The redneck in me thinks those trucks look cool. The : :wv: : farmer in me always wondered why anybody would raise the center of gravity and put the tailgate that much higher off the ground.


That's why I always like the Comanche's and J-10 pickups. 4wd and low bed heights.


----------



## pbrme

mudpuppy said:


> Time for a 6" lift and 33s, like my friends did to their 4runner.


Wife will probably put the kibosh on that, so I'll have to save it for the Wrangler Rubicon once we get the 4Runner square.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> Time for a 6" lift and 33s, like my friends did to their 4runner.


Sorry about your pen!s....

(ducks)


----------



## AZCIVILTRANS

lost the pic


----------



## cdcengineer

pbrme said:


> Here it is lads, the new addition to the family. The 2005 4Runner, limited w/ most all options, 111k miles, for $15.2k this evening. Was probably still $500 too high based on the KBB for Private Party but this was through a Toyota dealer and I didn't feel like nickle pinching those poor bastards any more. It's a nice ride (till something breaks, science forbid...), would have probably wondered off soon if I didn't make a move. JSYK, I was told by the financing guy at the end that we just made some 13' cutoff date for the rates we got, in case anyone is out looking. We locked in a 60mo. for 2.75% w/ sub $250/mo payments but will be shooting our eye out to pay this pup off by xmas next year. ......._HO... HO... HO!_


That's a sweet ride. I like the color too. We bought a new 2011 back about 15 months ago. Same color. I love the thing. It might ride a bit like a truck, but that's what we need here in the mountains. They are very capable off road. Ho ho ho.


----------



## Road Guy

Ate those 3 rows of seating?


----------



## Road Guy

Are


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

pbrme said:


> We locked in a 60mo. for 2.75% w/ sub $250/mo payments but will be shooting our eye out to pay this pup off by xmas next year. ......._HO... HO... HO!_


The bank ok'd a 60mo term on a 7/8 year old vehicle? Cool. It's always nice to get the payments stupid low then turn around and pay it off early. Helps having that cushon helps.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Used hard once...

/&gt;http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3397343197.html


----------



## pbrme

Road Guy said:


> Are those 3 rows of seating?


Fixt. This was an option, but didn't come on the one we bought. I think you can still get them after market as I've seen them on other listings, but we won't for the dogs. The whole reason we were leaning to the 4runner was for the rear window roll down feature. Perfect space back there for our two fur balls. My Ram seats 5 comfortably, but then the dogs have to free ball it in the back and they hate that. Now they won't have to.



Dexman PE said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> We locked in a 60mo. for 2.75% w/ sub $250/mo payments but will be shooting our eye out to pay this pup off by xmas next year. ......._HO... HO... HO!_
> 
> 
> 
> The bank ok'd a 60mo term on a 7/8 year old vehicle? Cool. It's always nice to get the payments stupid low then turn around and pay it off early. Helps having that cushon helps.
Click to expand...

Yeah, my thinking exactly. We could have even gotten the 72, but It really didn't matter at that point. My truck is the same year, and has been paid off for 5. If we can get the new to us ride off the books, we should be sitting fine in a couple years for either a Jeep Rubicon or a 67' chevelle. Haven't thought that far ahead.


----------



## mudpuppy

Capt Worley PE said:


> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Time for a 6" lift and 33s, like my friends did to their 4runner.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about your pen!s....
Click to expand...

Ha ha ha, it's my FEMALE friend's 4runner so I don't think she'd be offended.

They live in CO, where there is ample opportunity to actually benefit from a lifted vehicle. My jeep only has a 2" lift, so I'm not compensating or anything. . .


----------



## MA_PE

pbrme said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are those 3 rows of seating?
> 
> 
> 
> Fixt. This was an option, but didn't come on the one we bought. I think you can still get them after market as I've seen them on other listings, but we won't for the dogs. The whole reason we were leaning to the 4runner was for the rear window roll down feature. Perfect space back there for our two fur balls. My Ram seats 5 comfortably, but then the dogs have to free ball it in the back and they hate that. Now they won't have to.
Click to expand...

Put 'em in a cage and tie 'em down like a good republican....they love that.


----------



## pbrme

MA_PE said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are those 3 rows of seating?
> 
> 
> 
> Fixt. This was an option, but didn't come on the one we bought. I think you can still get them after market as I've seen them on other listings, but we won't for the dogs. The whole reason we were leaning to the 4runner was for the rear window roll down feature. Perfect space back there for our two fur balls. My Ram seats 5 comfortably, but then the dogs have to free ball it in the back and they hate that. Now they won't have to.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Put 'em in a cage and tie 'em down like a good republican....they love that.
Click to expand...

They bark and make fun of those dogs.


----------



## MA_PE

pbrme said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are those 3 rows of seating?
> 
> 
> 
> Fixt. This was an option, but didn't come on the one we bought. I think you can still get them after market as I've seen them on other listings, but we won't for the dogs. The whole reason we were leaning to the 4runner was for the rear window roll down feature. Perfect space back there for our two fur balls. My Ram seats 5 comfortably, but then the dogs have to free ball it in the back and they hate that. Now they won't have to.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Put 'em in a cage and tie 'em down like a good republican....they love that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They bark and make fun of those dogs.
Click to expand...

The ones on the roof, too?


----------



## pbrme

MA_PE said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are those 3 rows of seating?
> 
> 
> 
> Fixt. This was an option, but didn't come on the one we bought. I think you can still get them after market as I've seen them on other listings, but we won't for the dogs. The whole reason we were leaning to the 4runner was for the rear window roll down feature. Perfect space back there for our two fur balls. My Ram seats 5 comfortably, but then the dogs have to free ball it in the back and they hate that. Now they won't have to.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Put 'em in a cage and tie 'em down like a good republican....they love that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They bark and make fun of those dogs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The ones on the roof, too?
Click to expand...

I dunno, when ever we say "skit dem witnesses" they always bark at the guys in ties.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Oh, good Lord....

/&gt;http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3466532582.html

DIY Avalanche fail.


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> Oh, good Lord....
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3466532582.html
> 
> DIY Avalanche fail.


I wonder how well that dryer duct and PVC pipe snorkel setup works under water...


----------



## Master slacker

You doubting Big Dave? The snorkel is "bad ass" afterall.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I like the part about the great mileage.


----------



## envirotex

^^^and his apparent need to describe the dent in the rear passenger door and the fact that IT'S STREET LEGAL!...


----------



## blybrook PE

I WANT one of these when I get my shop built:


----------



## MA_PE

^ I'd think you'd get dizzy.

That is pretty cool.


----------



## Supe

If you're reading this Dex, BMR is having a 15% off Christmas sale in case you're interested!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ yep. Pedders is having one too with 0% for 6 months. Unfortunately with the unknown changes to the paycheck I dont want to over extend myself on wishlist stuff...


----------



## Road Guy

hey I'm looking at putting in a new radiator for my durango.. looks like there fairly reasonable $135 bucks at Autozone.. I havent ever done one before, they seem pretty straightforward? Anyone ever done one? Is there generally a lot of complicated parts to remove or is it fairly straightforward? Id be up for spending a few hours rather than dealing with some wrench turner at an auto shop..


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Anyone into VW Type 2 pickups?

/&gt;http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3517535435.html


----------



## blybrook PE

Radiators themselves can be fairly easy to do and I've never seen one with extra electrical connections. Typically it is very straight forward: drain the system; remove the fan, fan shroud and all hoses. Unbolt radiator, pull towards engine and lift to remove; install new radiator in reverse order. After filling the system with the new fluid, burp it a couple times (each vehicle has a slightly different method) and then kick back with a beverage of choice and enjoy the handywork.

They can get tricky if you have your transmission cooler built into the radiator itself, which involves draining the transmission lines as well as the radiator and refilling that when reinstalling. Also keep an eye on how the AC system hoses are routed around in this area, you don't want to get one of them punctured (if you have AC); but they are usually hooked to a different radiator and not bolted to the main system, so they should be easy to avoid.

For the two that I've replaced neither had the built in transmission cooler, Ford truck and IH, burping consisted of leaving the radiator cap off, elevating the front of the vehicle about 8-10" and starting the engine. As it draws in additional fluid, keep filling the radiator until it's just below the lip, usually takes a minute or two. Then drive the vehicle around until it's at operating temperature and refill with the front end elevated. Keep an eye on the levels for about a week and then you should be good to go with keeping it in check using the puke canister elevatoin marks.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

For MA

/&gt;http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3504750332.html


----------



## Road Guy

thanks Bly - it does have the extra radiator and fan for the tow package, It seemed to look likey they just connected via another hose from my first look at it...


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> For MA
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3504750332.html


That's a nice looking car. I think it's priced for the right buyer but could be had for less. It'd make a nice GTO clone


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^You see that Magnum 400 clone in the latest Hemmings Muscle Machines?


----------



## jeb6294

Anybody ever look into converting a car to run on propane or CNG?

When I get home one of the things I thought about looking into was getting a truck. It's be uber convenient and I could get rid of the ugly 4x8 trailer from the driveway...or at least put back in the woods by the shed for emergencies. My car has almost 110k miles on it and the only reason it isn't much higher than that is because it's been sitting for so long while I've been deployed which can't be good for it.

If I do get one I've already decided I'd like to get something older (late 80's early 90's) with minimal computer interference so if something breaks you don't have to have a degree in computer science to fix it. To help with the mileage issue I thought it might be interesting to look into building an engine specifically for CNG or propane to take advantage of their high octane rating. I already checked and, at the very least, the U-Haul right up the street will fill vehicles at $3.05/gal right now but that's only 5 or 10 cents cheaper than what gas is going for right now.


----------



## Supe

Had to lay back the radiator in the RX7 this weekend to get adequate clearance for the big honkin' SPAL puller fan. What a PITA project that was. Had to pull out the sawzall and cut a bunch of crap out, cut off most of the brackets that previously held it upright, and then weld on new supports/mounting spuds to use the factory mounting holes, along with a tensioner bar at the bottom that squeezes the supports together to keep the radiator from slipping out the bottom.

But I did accomplish my goal - do the entire thing in-situ without removing or draining the radiator, only had to pull and replace the top hose with a longer one!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Oh, my...  http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3528602179.html


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Oh, my... http://columbia.crai...3528602179.html


I can understand not having a 1990 Accord detailed prior to listing it on Craigslist, but they didn't even attempt to straighten up a little bit. Coffee cups and other trash are in the the passenger footwell.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ I noticed that too, but then again they're only asking $1200...


----------



## Supe

Those are "features".


----------



## pbrme

Supe said:


> Those are "features".


Also heard it called "cab candy". Who knows how many nickles you'll find.


----------



## Road Guy

they always say you can tell a lot from a person about how neat (or not neat) a person keeps their car.. a friend of mine who ones a couple of rental houses says he always makes sure to walk by a persons car that shows up to rent one of his houses.. says its usually spot on to how they treat the house...


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> Anyone into VW Type 2 pickups?
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3517535435.html


That would be so awesome! However, with the amount of pan and bed rust mentioned along with a "small hole" in the body and no title or engine, I'd be hard pressed to shell out any more than $1k. Judging from the pictures, the paint it has is only to mask the vast rust.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone into VW Type 2 pickups?
> 
> http://columbia.crai...3517535435.html
> 
> 
> 
> That would be so awesome! However, with the amount of pan and bed rust mentioned along with a "small hole" in the body and no title or engine, I'd be hard pressed to shell out any more than $1k. Judging from the pictures, the paint it has is only to mask the vast rust.
Click to expand...

I think that's actually the truck that Gibbes VW owned back in the day, now that I take a good look at it. It was a POS back in 1984 if that's really the same truck.


----------



## Flyer_PE

After almost 23 years of faithful service, the power antenna in my MR2 has failed. They just don't build them like they used to.


----------



## Master slacker

Antannae or roller skates?


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Both


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> Anybody ever look into converting a car to run on propane or CNG?
> 
> When I get home one of the things I thought about looking into was getting a truck. It's be uber convenient and I could get rid of the ugly 4x8 trailer from the driveway...or at least put back in the woods by the shed for emergencies. My car has almost 110k miles on it and the only reason it isn't much higher than that is because it's been sitting for so long while I've been deployed which can't be good for it.
> 
> If I do get one I've already decided I'd like to get something older (late 80's early 90's) with minimal computer interference so if something breaks you don't have to have a degree in computer science to fix it. To help with the mileage issue I thought it might be interesting to look into building an engine specifically for CNG or propane to take advantage of their high octane rating. I already checked and, at the very least, the U-Haul right up the street will fill vehicles at $3.05/gal right now but that's only 5 or 10 cents cheaper than what gas is going for right now.


I've never looked into converting, but a friend of mine works for Chrysler and gets to take vehicles home. He had a full size crew cab Ram truck that ran on CNG once. It had an 8-gallon tank and about 150 mile range, not a very practical thing.

Keep in mind the different BTU contents of the different fuels. Propane has about 75% of the BTU content of gasoline per gallon, so at $3/gallon, propane is probably more expensive than gasoline. CNG is a little worse on BTU content, but probably costs a lot less. The problem is where do you find somewhere to fill up with CNG? My friend's only option is at work, which is 30 miles away, so just his commute takes up almost half his range.


----------



## pbrme

mudpuppy said:


> jeb6294 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody ever look into converting a car to run on propane or CNG?
> 
> When I get home one of the things I thought about looking into was getting a truck. It's be uber convenient and I could get rid of the ugly 4x8 trailer from the driveway...or at least put back in the woods by the shed for emergencies. My car has almost 110k miles on it and the only reason it isn't much higher than that is because it's been sitting for so long while I've been deployed which can't be good for it.
> 
> If I do get one I've already decided I'd like to get something older (late 80's early 90's) with minimal computer interference so if something breaks you don't have to have a degree in computer science to fix it. To help with the mileage issue I thought it might be interesting to look into building an engine specifically for CNG or propane to take advantage of their high octane rating. I already checked and, at the very least, the U-Haul right up the street will fill vehicles at $3.05/gal right now but that's only 5 or 10 cents cheaper than what gas is going for right now.
> 
> 
> 
> I've never looked into converting, but a friend of mine works for Chrysler and gets to take vehicles home. He had a full size crew cab Ram truck that ran on CNG once. It had an 8-gallon tank and about 150 mile range, not a very practical thing.
> 
> Keep in mind the different BTU contents of the different fuels. Propane has about 75% of the BTU content of gasoline per gallon, so at $3/gallon, propane is probably more expensive than gasoline. CNG is a little worse on BTU content, but probably costs a lot less. The problem is where do you find somewhere to fill up with CNG? My friend's only option is at work, which is 30 miles away, so just his commute takes up almost half his range.
Click to expand...

Good point MP.I overhauled a ford staight six for a mechanic at a summer job in college to run on propane. I also worked on a couple schwan's food service trucks that ran on propane. The basic principle is to get your hands on a carburated engine and swap the gasoline carb out for a propane/CNG. Newer cars have more crap to manage, here's a good ref.

The way I'd go is to run an engine on Water. Electronic frequency harmonics, natural annode/cathode, or good old fashion batery for electrolisys to separate the hydrogen into a fuel cell &amp; the O2 into a reservoir for the combustion cycle. Same principles as the propane carburator. Aluminum or stainless block and heads to help prevent oxidation by the steam durring compression cycle. I would tap the O2 supply through a super charger mixing with outside air on the intake, and add a condenser to the exhaust to reclaim the steam. It would also be trick to install a small steam turbine on the exhaust to tap some of the regected heat, and a condenser to reclaim the steam back into the H2O storage tank. Backyard mechanics have been doing things like this for over 40yrs. Damn hippies and their mother earth vanagons.


----------



## jeb6294

It's too bad Ford decided to phase out the Ranger. They're still available overseas, have several running around on the base here, and they look pretty sharp. Kind of look like a scaled down Raptor.


----------



## Road Guy

I had 2 rangers and for "what I paid for them" they were a great truck

I'm suprised they ditched it just for the commercial sales they always did. I mean looking around in traffic how many of those white ford rangers used for many different public and private businesses do you see?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I had a love/hate relationship with my old Ranger. I hated the power (or lack thereof) and light rear end, but loved everything else. It would have been a perfect yard truck, but was slower than my wife's 4cyl/5speed Beretta.

I probably would have been better off with a Sport-Trac or Ridgeline, but they didn't exist at the time.

Jeb, the new Colorado (I think it is coming out in 2014?) looks an awful lot like that Ranger.


----------



## envirotex

Cool or not? I saw one of these over the weekend and it was cooler than I remember them being when I was a kid...maybe it's just the Corvette-style glass.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

'71 Boattail Riviera...love those things.


----------



## Master slacker

I'd hit it


----------



## MA_PE

yeah the boattail Riv's are very cool.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I've been watching Barret-Jackson for the last couple of days. George Barris just sold Batmobile #1 at auction for $4.2 Million. The guy that bought it said he's going to put it in his living room.


----------



## Flyer_PE

2014 Corvette serial number #1 just sold to Rick Hendrick for $1.05 Million. I'm still not sold on the looks of the car.


----------



## knight1fox3

The Batmobile auction was cool to watch. I don't typically watch those things but as I was with friends from the "south", that was the channel of choice for the evening. I really like the look of the new vette.


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> I've been watching Barret-Jackson for the last couple of days. George Barris just sold Batmobile #1 at auction for $4.2 Million. The guy that bought it said he's going to put it in his living room.




In later years Barris kind of annoys me. He's got a great legacy on his own but he takes credit for every popular movie or tv car where he actually created it or not. One classic example is that he says he did the monkee mobile, but it was actaually done by Dean Jeffries, also he lays claim to the Green Hornet's Black Beauty also done by Jeffries. He even tried to say he owned the Smokey and the Bandit movie car but Burt Reynolds and Hal Needham (the director) have often said that all the car were destroyed during the making of the movie. Barris got a restored 1977 T/A and "officially signed" it. Why would I want to have his signature on the hood of the car? Apparently he did this to the Batmobile too.

The guy has a great legacy on his own, I guess his ego drives him to steal other people work too.


----------



## Master slacker

Flyer_PE said:


> 2014 Corvette serial number #1 just sold to Rick Hendrick for $1.05 Million. I'm still not sold on the looks of the car.




Um... doesn't the first production Corvette always stay in Bowling Green? :huh:


----------



## knight1fox3

I followed this into work today. LOL Good old Dodge Aries.


----------



## MA_PE

"it's not only the performance...it's the luxury"


----------



## knight1fox3

^ LOL

"I like the _cool_ stuff..."

22HP engine......STANDARD :lmao:


----------



## MA_PE

BOOYA!


----------



## Road Guy

Pulled of the radiator replacement today.. Really wasn't that bad.. Just had to remove a couple of things to get to it...

I'm thankful that all the bolts I had to undo we're all the same size and length! I doubt they planned it that way but that makes like so much easier!


----------



## blybrook PE

Good to hear RG! Best to have it all be one size / configuration instead of the combos you can be unlucky enough to find in some rigs!


----------



## envirotex

Flyer_PE said:


> I've been watching Barret-Jackson for the last couple of days. George Barris just sold Batmobile #1 at auction for $4.2 Million. The guy that bought it said he's going to put it in his living room.


I liked the part where the last two guys bidding flipped a coin to see who was going to win...pretty cool.


----------



## Supe

Been fighting like crazy to get my air dam/radiator inlet box mounted. Met a ton of snags along the way. I think I'm now one drilled hole and some wire mesh away from being done with the stupid thing.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The wire mesh used for rain-gutter guards on your house work really well for intakes (at least it did on my last car)...


----------



## Supe

I ended up using the rabbit cage mesh from Lowe's garden center. If it doesn't overheat, I may go to something finer. I didn't want to press my luck, as my inlet is right at 1/3 the size of the HX surface area, which is on the cusp of acceptable.


----------



## Master slacker

I have some leftover Inconel 600, #8 mesh screen. Probably heavier than what you're using, but you could brag about the material if nothing else.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Looks like I will be test driving a new car this weekend...

http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/3535060220.html

I won't be buying, but at least a photoshoot would be fun...


----------



## Master slacker

$26k for a used, 4 year old Mustang? I think not.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I thought all these had rusted away...

http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?69422-OR-FS-T-1974-Datsun-710-coupe-(trade-for-MK2)


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Master slacker said:


> $26k for a used, 4 year old Mustang? I think not.


Considering that my Camaro is 3 years old, has twice the mileage and is still worth $27, I don't think the price is too far off. I agree it's probably a bit high, but the bigger issue with this car is that there is only a very specific set of buyers out there for a car like this.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> Looks like I will be test driving a new car this weekend...
> 
> http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/3535060220.html
> 
> I won't be buying, but at least a photoshoot would be fun...




So do you only buy cars that were in the first Transformers movie? LOL


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

No. Barricade also appeared (although a brief cameo) in the 3rd movie...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I've always been a big fan of the Mk II Celica Supra






Luckily, the drift crowd hasn't discovered these, so they aren't as pricey as the AE86 Corolla GT-S.

They seem to run forever.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I've always liked those too. The only issue with them is that they rusted out pretty quickly. That was pretty much the problem with most cars of that era.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Yeah, towards the end of their production the japanese were making great stride in rust-proofing, but the Celica Supras started out with poor rustproofing in 82. I think by 85, it was a different story, but most you see are 82s or 83s.

They rust in odd places, too. Corner of sunroof and hatch.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Best sports coupe in America...in 1985.

http://www.geocities.ws/ma71supraturbo/articles/mk2/5_85cdsupra.html


----------



## knight1fox3

The Dodge Dart is back? :huh:

http://www.dodge.com/en/2013/dart/

Umm...cool I guess?


----------



## Master slacker

I like it. Too bad it can't come with a 2.0 L turbo.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Wait for the SRT version...


----------



## Ble_PE

Wow, I can't believe that there is a thread that is over 10 pages long that I haven't commented in. Nothing to add other than this. Carry on.


----------



## Master slacker

Like other "cool" cars coming out, if it came in RWD (and the 2.0L turbo), I'd waste no time getting to a dealership for a test drive.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ You'd like the new Subaru BRZ then...


----------



## Master slacker

That has a non-turbo 2.0 L, right? Same as the Scion FRS.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Yup.


----------



## mudpuppy

From what I've heard the new Dart is not selling well. One of my friends bought one (he works at Chrysler and gets a discount) but my opinion is they are pretty pricey for what you get.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> From what I've heard the new Dart is not selling well.




Hard to believe after such quality subcompacts as the Neon and Caliber, isn't it?


----------



## Flyer_PE

I know they put 340's in those cars but my memory of the Dart/Duster is pretty much that sh!t-box car Dennis Weaver dove in Duel.

The slant-six engine is the closest thing to indestructible that I have ever seen though.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I'm a huge Mopar fan, but aside from the engines and transmissions, everything else is a POS.


----------



## Supe

So, I decided to cut the living hell out of my fenders, since it turns out the 17x10 tire I want to run is about 1/5" taller than the one on there now, and I'd have to run a serious set of fender flares otherwise. So, I said screw it, cut a ton of the fender off for clearance, and have mocked up a set of extraction vents that I will add that are to be constructed from ABS plastic, reminiscent of the Porsche 917 Can Am cars, just way crappier.


----------



## Lumber Jim

I kinda like it. Get some of that chrome push-on edge trim to cover up the shap edges and you're set...

Seriously though, I see it turning out pretty well.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

IMSA GTO RX7 was pretty close to that look.


----------



## Supe

Good find, Captain. I haven't seen that one before!

Lumber Jim - that's what Plastidip is for!


----------



## Supe

Whooo, presents showed up today!


----------



## jeb6294

Master slacker said:


> I like it. Too bad it can't come with a 2.0 L turbo.


You could always go with the new Ford Focus ST. 252hp out of a 2.0l Ecoboost. Saw one driving around town last time I was home on R&amp;R. Pretty sharp, wouldn't mind having one...if I had $25k laying around to spend on a hot rod econobox.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

The Focus ST is a very nice vehicle.

I wonder what used SVT Focuses (Focii?) are running today. Those things were swet in their day, although the trannies always worried me, since they were specific to the SVT (And European ST170).


----------



## Master slacker

The Focus ST is nice. However, I don't think I could ever spend near ~$30k on a FWD, compact car. In fact, I can't see myself EVER paying that kind of money for ANY car.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^^I'm the same way. Paying cash for used is quite the money saver.

Although the 0% or damn near 0 deals sure do make new things attractive. Especially when they allow it to be spread over so many years (I tend to keep vehicles for a long time).


----------



## Ble_PE

^That was one of the main reasons I bought a new minivan instead of a used one. I'm planning on keeping it until the wheels fall off, so the low-interest loan for 5 years isn't a bad trade off.


----------



## Master slacker

My cars will always (knock on wood) either be something I build or something that is EASILY worked on. My wife's cars requirements have a little higher standard, understandably, as they will always be toting the kiddos.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> ^^I'm the same way. Paying cash for used is quite the money saver.
> 
> Although the 0% or damn near 0 deals sure do make new things attractive. Especially when they allow it to be spread over so many years (I tend to keep vehicles for a long time).




The 0% interest isn't really 0%. The interest is just built into value of the loan. It may still be an attractive deal but you have to know the price differential between a cash purchase and the "0%" loan. No such thing as a free lunch.


----------



## Road Guy

auto peeps.. Ive replaced the shocks (Front and Rear) on my Durango 2006 with 160,000 miles one them.. It rides and steers so much better but still squeaks like hell? I probably should have bought a bushing replacement kit or something.. Is there anything else that I would need to swap out you think?


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^^I'm the same way. Paying cash for used is quite the money saver.
> 
> Although the 0% or damn near 0 deals sure do make new things attractive. Especially when they allow it to be spread over so many years (I tend to keep vehicles for a long time).
> 
> 
> 
> The 0% interest isn't really 0%. The interest is just built into value of the loan. It may still be an attractive deal but you have to know the price differential between a cash purchase and the "0%" loan. No such thing as a free lunch.
Click to expand...

QFT


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> auto peeps.. Ive replaced the shocks (Front and Rear) on my Durango 2006 with 160,000 miles one them.. It rides and steers so much better but still squeaks like hell? I probably should have bought a bushing replacement kit or something.. Is there anything else that I would need to swap out you think?




Sway bar bushings / end links. Body / frame mount bushings could probably be replaced as well.


----------



## Supe

May just need to be greased for that matter.


----------



## Master slacker

^^^ If it has grease fittings. My wife's Rav4 doesn't have any. NONE!


----------



## Supe

That's what spray/graphite lube is for!


----------



## Road Guy

I should have replaced the front ones when I did the front shocks.. those were a pain to get off. you have to remove the control arm to get to the lower nut on the front shocks, which makes a 15 minute job take 30.. .... I guess I can go the wd-40 route


----------



## Flyer_PE

The two most important tools in any tool box are duct tape and WD-40.


----------



## MA_PE

let's not forget the BFH.


----------



## Flyer_PE

When you're under the car, any handy object becomes a BFH.

My other favorite tool is the crescent-hammer. Much more effective for that purpose than as a wrench.


----------



## Supe

Fender A complete, with the exception that the radius part will angle in several inches. Need to yank the wheel to fasten it in there from inside the wheel well.


----------



## MA_PE

looks like it will get the job done. nice solution.


----------



## Supe

Comment last night via e-mail from the guy who heads the Time Trials for the region - "You're going to make us re-write the Street Unlimited safety rules, aren't you?"


----------



## Road Guy

supe what did that car start out as?

Is the fender swap just a lot of bolting and unbolting? I got a free set of fenders for my jeep where the old ones had rusted out on top.. color matches perfectly but it looks like a shit load of bolts to take off and on.. I havent really looked into it too much, I was gonna tackle it when the weather warms up


----------



## envirotex

Haha.

http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/sideshow/carjackers-foiled-mysteries-stick-shift-215110818.html


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I never realized that my old sports car has a built-in security system!


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> *supe what did that car start out as?*
> 
> *Is the fender swap just a lot of bolting and unbolting? I got a free set of fenders for my jeep where the old ones had rusted out on top.. color matches perfectly but it looks like a shit load of bolts to take off and on.. I havent really looked into it too much, I was gonna tackle it when the weather warms up*






It's a 87 Mazda RX7. Those are the stock fenders hacked to pieces, with ABS scoops riveted in place that I made out of 1/8" sheet (wish I had 1/16"). Removing those fenders would typically involve three bolts near the door jambs, 5 or so under the hood, and another 5 or so up in the wheel well that attaches it to the nose. To get at those, you're looking at unbolting the wheel liners too. Me, well, I just cut shit out of the way.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Except the brown interior (mine was black), incorrect rear bumper (its missing the black plastic center insert), and the posi rearend, this is an exact dupicate of my old 73 CJ/4spd Gran Torino Sport.







http://daytona.craigslist.org/ctd/3523751769.html


----------



## envirotex

^^^There's one in the ATX that we are going to go see today...

http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/3583682539.html

Wish there were pics.


----------



## Road Guy

I like this guys sense of dedication!

http://www.betteroffdeadcamaro.com/


----------



## MA_PE

envirotex said:


> ^^^There's one in the ATX that we are going to go see today...
> 
> http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/3583682539.html
> 
> Wish there were pics.


Are you going to make a Starsky &amp; Hutch car?

RG: That is a good story on the BOD camaro. A classic John Cusack movie from days gone by. "two dollars...I want my two dollars"


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Torinos from that era had serious rust issues in the back half (including the frame where the rear suspension mounts).


----------



## blybrook PE

Grenaded a u-joint last night on the plow truck. Had to take a grinder to the axle shaft ears to get it apart since they were so deformed. Here's one pic that I quickly took before attacking it with the cut off wheel.






Thankfully there's only chance snow in the forecast; I'll be able to reassemble everything within a couple hours of getting the parts. The search for parts begins.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I bet this beastie is a real handful....

http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/3591358084.html


----------



## Master slacker

Nothing like cooping up the carb in the high heat area it is. Neat concept, but other than that, meh.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Yeah, I was thinking that was a really bad placement for the air intake. Definitely not designed to be driven in anything but short trips (ie 1/4 mile at a time, and trailered to the track).


----------



## Capt Worley PE

If you look at the doghouse and shape of that hole cut in the rear firewall, it appears those two scoops on the hood are feeding the carb (although with that 180 dgree reversal in direction, you're losing whatever small ram effect there was).


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

You'd almost be better off putting the scoop on the roof and tubing the air straight down instead of that layout.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Sure you would. But that would look even more stupid AND ruin your rear vision.


----------



## envirotex

^^^Well, first of all, this person is driving a Corvair...with a flame job, come on.

It's really the ultimate in foreshadowing, though...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

envirotex said:


> ^^^Well, first of all, this person is driving a Corvair...with a flame job, come on.
> 
> It's really the ultimate in foreshadowing, though...




You're thinking the pre-64 models. The 64s had camber compensators and the 65-ups had an allnew, non swingaxle IRS. The second gens were awesome handlers for the day.

I still thing the second gen 'vair is one of the most beautiful automobiles made.


----------



## Flyer_PE

My dad had two Corvairs, both turbo charged. He always said those things were a blast to drive.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Actual quoe about Corvairs from a guy whose dad owned six of them: "They don't drive very good when your drunk."


----------



## pbrme

Someday...

http://youtu.be/ReFTC35DLrk


----------



## Capt Worley PE

LOLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3515018698.html


----------



## Flyer_PE

^That car is just wrong on so many levels. He's pretty damned optimistic with the price.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

http://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/3604355374.html


----------



## MA_PE

nice.


----------



## envirotex

She's trading her MG

for a wood-paneled Chrysler LeBaron...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^^I knew Karen back when she went by Kitty.


----------



## jeb6294

Unless it's got that backwards facing seat that flips up out of the floor in the back, I'm not interested.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ I'm sure you could find a Subaru Brat for fairly cheap...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^^Trying to find one that isn't 3/4 rusted to death is the trick.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I knew firstgen Broncos were rust buckets, but HFS!

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3505924229.html


----------



## Master slacker

Well, you know what happens when you pull a fuel pump out of the tank that was just topped off? If you answered "a driveway soaked in gasoline" you are absolutely correct!

I easily dumped enough gas on the driveway to be able to smell it down the street. Windows are staying down tonight. Thinking about just going ahead and changing the fuel filter while I'm at it. If nothing else, it's another opportunity to curse.


----------



## BamaBino

New cars increasingly out of reach for many Americans


----------



## wilheldp_PE

That article only hit on one of the issues that have led to the affordability problem (namely that federal regulations have force automakers to include formerly optional equipment like airbags in all new models). The article seems to ignore inflation all together. They say that the average price of a new car is higher than ever, but don't seem to adjust that price for inflation. I'd say it is probably the same or lower than previous years when adjusted accordingly.

The biggest issue, however, is the fact that the "99%" are more interested in bitching that they don't make a lot of money compared to the previous generation than they are at actually putting in the work to earn more money (thereby being able to afford a new car).


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Tow thoughts:

1) Used car

2) People often want more than they can afford


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> Tow thoughts:
> 
> 1) _*Affordable *_Used car
> 
> 2) People often want _*expect*_ more than they can afford


Number 1 is quite often tied directly to number 2. And "expectations" tap into the "entitlement" people feel they have for many items.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

You know a car is a gigantic POS when it was once common, but now you can't find an example of one within 500 miles of you.

The Dodge Conquest is such a car.


----------



## MA_PE

Cap'n (or anyone else): what do you know about the 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring convertible? I'm looking at a dealer. Car fax shows it as two owner (1st being a rental), 51k miles, for $11.4


----------



## blybrook PE

if it was a rental at any time, PASS!!! They are beat to $hit as no one cares as they don't have to pay for the repairs.

While it may be a fun car to own; I sure wouldn't want to be owning one that was previously a rental and driven into the ground.


----------



## MA_PE

I understand. OTOH I know people that have bought cars from the Entrprise rental pool and have had great luck/success with them. That not withstanding, any idea of the general track record of the car?


----------



## Lumber Jim

MA_PE said:


> Cap'n (or anyone else): what do you know about the 2008 Chrysler Sebring Touring convertible? I'm looking at a dealer. Car fax shows it as two owner (1st being a rental), 51k miles, for $11.4


Knew a guy that had an older Sebring Convertible with terrible brakes, a gutless motor, and a "squishy" ride due to the body flex but this may have been because it was a repairable...

It was often mistaken as a camaro by women and therefore he liked it anyway.

This was a late 90's vintage so a lot could have improved since then with the newer models but a lot could have stayed the same. (If there is no body damage then the brakes are probably good on the one you are looking at...)


----------



## Master slacker

MA_PE said:


> I understand. OTOH I know people that have bought cars from the Entrprise rental pool and have had great* luck*/success with them. That not withstanding, any idea of the general track record of the car?




confidence


----------



## knight1fox3

I would never buy a Chrysler anything. The company I used to work for built their assembly lines. Their lack of quality standards and tolerances are staggering. I had a Sebring as a rental before and I did not like it one bit.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Those were pretty dark days from Chrysler, I'd stay away.

As for rentals, I feel better about them than buying a car off lease. At least the rental got maintained properly, and the vast majority of folks don't beat the snot out of them. I'm more wary of ex-lease cars as I know plenty of people who perform zero maintenance on them ("Why change the oil? I'm getting rid of it in two more years?")

My grandmother got one that was a POS in the early eighties, but it wa a 79 Malibu and most of it's POSness came from GM, not Enterprise.

All other ex rental owners have been quite happy. I have 36K on my ex-rental with just an ISS replaced under warranty (again, a GM problem, not an Enterprise problem). I got it with 23K.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

My wife's Jeep Commander was an old rental vehicle. We bought it back in 2009 with 30k miles on it. We now have over 110k miles on it and it's still going strong. We are even planning on road-tripping it out to San Diego the end of the month...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dual double pumpers on a tunnel rammed 350 in this: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3605691209.html

I see driveability issues with this one.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Hunting for what?!?!?!?

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3594459455.html


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Dual double pumpers on a tunnel rammed 350 in this: http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3605691209.html
> 
> I see driveability issues with this one.


Just add velour to the walls,a bed, and a bar. Ready to go.


----------



## blybrook PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Hunting for what?!?!?!?
> 
> http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3594459455.html




He probably uses it for deer hunting aka mobile blind!


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Hunting for what?!?!?!?
> 
> http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3594459455.html


"This has been my primary and backup truck for 11 years"
In other words, "It's useful life is over"


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Used hard once: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3665454641.html


----------



## pbrme

blybrook PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hunting for what?!?!?!?
> 
> http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3594459455.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He probably uses it for deer hunting aka mobile blind!
Click to expand...

Or for Velociraptor.


----------



## blybrook PE

pbrme said:


> blybrook PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hunting for what?!?!?!?
> 
> http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3594459455.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He probably uses it for deer hunting aka mobile blind!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or for Velociraptor.
Click to expand...

Or wild hog; it is the south... Gotta get to walmart somehow...


----------



## pbrme

Capt Worley PE said:


> Used hard once: http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3665454641.html


A little paint and It'll be tip top.


----------



## pbrme

blybrook PE said:


> pbrme said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> blybrook PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hunting for what?!?!?!?
> 
> http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/3594459455.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He probably uses it for deer hunting aka mobile blind!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or for Velociraptor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Or wild hog; it is the south... Gotta get to walmart somehow...
Click to expand...

"who wants to ride in the bucket???"

MEEEE, Meee, meeeee!!!!


----------



## MA_PE

In case the car guys don't read the Youtube thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YR9UeZKI78


----------



## envirotex

"Well, we'd better buckle up..."


----------



## blybrook PE




----------



## envirotex

^^^A Mullet. Business in the front, party in the back.


----------



## MA_PE

Duck dynasty prom car


----------



## blybrook PE

A few coats of paint and it may look factory made!

At least they made sure the rims matched


----------



## envirotex

How big is the hot rod revival in your town? The ATX is having a big hot rod show this weekend, and people really get into the whole image of hot rodding...is this just something here or is it big everywhere?

http://lonestarroundup.com/


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Man, too bad about the rust. I love these things.



















Rare 1987 Hatchback SI, fuel injected 12 valve motor. 119700 miles runs and looks great. Rust underneath. I bought this for a project tuner car. To many other irons in the fire to get done. Serious only 814-934-4781 after 1500 before 2000


----------



## snickerd3

That looks like one of my coworkers cars...she had to get the odometer replaced because it stopped counting miles.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

That's back when Honda knew how to make light, fun, practical cars. I like those even better than my old 89 Civic Si, despite having a beam axle instead of IRS.


----------



## Supe

The CRX is still one of the most dominant autocross cars in existence.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I always liked the CRX, but it was never really practical for me. Too small and the insurance was a lot more expensive than it's Civic brother.


----------



## Krakosky

Went in for a routine oil change this past weekend and was told I needed a new battery ($150) and spark plugs ($220). 2005 Ford Escape with 108k miles on it. I've replaced the battery once before and have never replaced the spark plugs. Got the new battery and spark plugs for $108 and labor for $0.


----------



## Ble_PE

^So the labor was paid for "under the table" if you know what I mean?


----------



## Krakosky

Haha...sort of. Usually I just pay to have that stuff done bc I want it taken care of immediately. But I didn't feel like dropping $400.


----------



## MA_PE

108k out of a set of plugs is pretty good. Depnding on the access, I pay to have them changed...some cars really suck trying to get at the plugs.

You might consider a new set of wires, too. It can really help performance.

$150 for a battery...it must be a pretty nice one.

$220 for plugs. I assume it's a 6 so that's ~$37/plug. Again, must be nice ones.


----------



## Supe

Hell, my RACING plugs cost a whopping $2.95/ea!


----------



## Krakosky

It's a 4 cylinder and the plugs are easily accessible right in front. My dad did use a pen with a piece of rubber on the end to pull them out which worked surprisingly well. They quoted the plugs at $16 each.


----------



## MA_PE

On my transverse mounted GM V-6's I let the mechanic deal with access next to the firewall. He might charge me $5/plug but I know he's got a parts mark-up so it doesn't bother me much.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> On my transverse mounted GM V-6's I let the mechanic deal with access next to the firewall. He might charge me $5/plug but I know he's got a parts mark-up so it doesn't bother me much.




That's what I'm going to do when the Maxx gets more miles on it. I have no desire to torture myself with getting to the plugs on the firewall side.


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> On my transverse mounted GM V-6's I let the mechanic deal with access next to the firewall. He might charge me $5/plug but I know he's got a parts mark-up so it doesn't bother me much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm going to do when the Maxx gets more miles on it. I have no desire to torture myself with getting to the plugs on the firewall side.
Click to expand...



All hail GM! My mom had a 2000 Grand Prix GTP... Thank God we never had to replace anything in it. It seemed that you had to remove the engine to access the alternator. I couldn't imagine the plugs.


----------



## Krakosky

That's the fine work of Obama Automotive.


----------



## Road Guy

Where are the ill change your plugs baby? Comments???

I did the plugs on my v8 Durango.. $50 bucks total, 1 hour, and loss of some skin on knuckles...

I'm gonna get me some cool mechanics gloves to save my skin...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> On my transverse mounted GM V-6's I let the mechanic deal with access next to the firewall. He might charge me $5/plug but I know he's got a parts mark-up so it doesn't bother me much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm going to do when the Maxx gets more miles on it. I have no desire to torture myself with getting to the plugs on the firewall side.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> All hail GM! My mom had a 2000 Grand Prix GTP... Thank God we never had to replace anything in it. It seemed that you had to remove the engine to access the alternator. I couldn't imagine the plugs.
Click to expand...



No joke. I was filling up the washer fluid on my wife's Impala SS, and realized that not only would I never change the battery (had USAA do it when it died), I'd never eff with the air filter either. In both cases, braces have to be removed.

Runs like a scalded dog, though.


----------



## mudpuppy

Batteries have gotten expensive, I couldn't find one for the Cherokee for less than $130. But $220 for plugs is outrageous--you sure that didn't include anything else? Coils? Timing chain?

I second the thought to replace the plug wires. Eventually the insulation will start to break down and you'll start getting shorts, although this is probably more a factor of age than mileage.


----------



## Master slacker

The tried and true Tracer is running with 21 year old wires with no issues. I changed the plugs about a month ago. The old plugs were gapped 3x the original spec. Little bummed that I didn't get any better mileage after the change.


----------



## MA_PE

Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?

$220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?
> 
> $220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt




W-bod. Not a fan of the B-bods.


----------



## Master slacker

MA_PE said:


> Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?
> 
> $220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt




I've got a '96.  



Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cap'n: do you have the old B-body SS (pre '96) or a newer one?
> 
> $220 might have included coil packs but it seems low. Way too low for a timing chain belt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> W-bod. Not a fan of the B-bods.
Click to expand...



&lt;cough&gt; Wimpala! &lt;cough&gt; :banhim:


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^







L67 +1000


----------



## Master slacker

^ FWD is Wrong Wheel Drive.

Also, Weind 6-71 &gt; Eaton M90.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I'm pretty sure the Eaton unit has it all over Weiand's when it comes to efficiency.

FWD, RWD...bah...doesn't matter on the street until it gets rainy or snowy, then its....

FWD +100


----------



## envirotex

mudpuppy said:


> Batteries have gotten expensive, I couldn't find one for the Cherokee for less than $130. But $220 for plugs is outrageous--you sure that didn't include anything else? Coils? Timing chain?
> 
> I second the thought to replace the plug wires. Eventually the insulation will start to break down and you'll start getting shorts, although this is probably more a factor of age than mileage.




I paid $120 for a battery for the Land Cruiser this past weekend.


----------



## Krakosky

I think the $220 was for labor and plugs (possibly the wires?). They told me it would take them an hour and a half to do and don't they charge something outrageous like $90/ hr?

On another note, just got my plate renewal bill in the mail. $135. Damn! TX was still cheaper even with the required state inspection. I believe registration was around $65 and inspection around $40.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^My plates _and property tax _were less than that!


----------



## blybrook PE

Just replaced the batteries on the backup rigs last year, about $150 each rig; but I get bigger batteries than required and they usually last me 4-5 years. Plugs, wires &amp; distributor on the plow truck was a whopping $35 total. It'll be around $50 when I do the other backup rig this spring. Primary rig has no plugs, wires or coils (diesel w/ grid heater).

If I look at the registration costs, I spend $200 every two years to register 3 rigs. Not too bad actually, since its $100 / rig / 2 years. Yes, the math doesn't work out, but one rig has amateur radio plates, so the registration renewal is zero.

My ol' '89 ranger was a pain to change the plugs since you had to pull the throttle body to get to 3 of them. It was a 4 cylinder with dual coil packs and 2 plugs per cylinder. I took it in everytime I had to get the plugs changed on it because it required a computer reset while you were pulling things apart. Real pain in the kiester!


----------



## mudpuppy

Capt Worley PE said:


> ^My plates _and property tax _were less than that!




Michigan's plate renewal fee includes the property tax. It's based on sticker price, so I pay a lot more for my 16 year old Jeep Cherokee than my 7 year old Aveo. I think the Jeep was around $100 and the Aveo is about $60.


----------



## snickerd3

I think Il is up to $101 or $102 a yr. They just added a few bucks to the fee this year for the state parks. I'll find out in couple months when my stickers are up for renewal


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> I'm pretty sure the Eaton unit has it all over Weiand's when it comes to efficiency.
> 
> FWD, RWD...bah...doesn't matter on the street until it gets rainy or snowy, then its....
> 
> FWD +100




Efficiency shmefficiency (sp?)...

Rain? In everyday driving, if one can drive, RWD &gt; FWD. If one races on the street in rain or snow, one is an idiot.


----------



## MA_PE

mudpuppy said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^My plates _and property tax _were less than that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Michigan's plate renewal fee includes the property tax. It's based on sticker price, so I pay a lot more for my 16 year old Jeep Cherokee than my 7 year old Aveo. I think the Jeep was around $100 and the Aveo is about $60.
Click to expand...

on sticker? In MA the excise tax is based on a "current value" so as the car ages the excise tax goes down. Standard registration is ~$40/2years. I have special plates so it's $100/year (yeah I know but It's has sentimental attachment). Inspection is $29 annually.


----------



## mudpuppy

Yep, original sticker price. They dereate it by a little bit for a few years but then it bottoms out. That's why I pay 66% more for the Jeep than the Aveo, even though they are worth about the same now.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Crazy!


----------



## Krakosky

I forgot to mention, old of my old spark plugs looked pretty good for 108k miles. No corrosion or residue. Except...the last spark plug was covered in oil. My dad checked the oil level and said it was a bit high bc I had just gotten it changed. Could this be it? There wasn't oil anywhere else besides on the last spark plug.


----------



## MA_PE

oil on a plug indicates some blow by. Good be the rings are letting some oil by on that one cylinder. A little extra oil shouldn't foul just one plug.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

With the fuel injection systems making complete combustion the norm, plugs can last a pretty good long time.

When I was a kid, they were a yearly replacement item.


----------



## Master slacker

They were also copper.

edit: not to say that today's plugs AREN'T copper, but the copper plugs back in the day weren't as good as they are now. That and the fact that fuel droplets in the combustion chamber with carbs will quickly blow away plugs.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Huh, never realized that. They certainly didn't LOOK like copper.


----------



## Master slacker

Are we talking 70's here? I can't think of how often non-copper electrodes were used back then. Nowadays platinum is commonplace and those last for-freakin'-ever. Hell, my Tracer had two original plugs in it until recently. Except for the obscene gaps, the plugs themselves looked pretty darn good despite being copper (fuel injection, btw).


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Yeah, seventies. Electrodes were silver colored, so I never figured they'd be copper.


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Yeah, seventies. Electrodes were silver colored, so I never figured they'd be copper.


didn't you ever use sandpapaer to clean them up? The sand paper would expose the copper.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, seventies. Electrodes were silver colored, so I never figured they'd be copper.
> 
> 
> 
> didn't you ever use sandpapaer to clean them up? The sand paper would expose the copper.
Click to expand...



Nah, we just gapped them before we put em in and threw them away after we pulled them out.


----------



## MA_PE

I was (still am) cheap. I'd try to clean them and put them back in for a bit.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> I was (still am) cheap. I'd try to clean them and put them back in for a bit.




I don't even eff with them anymore. Not worth the hassle.


----------



## Master slacker

Platinums in the Impala (changed &lt;10k miles ago), Iridium in the wife's Rav (checked at 105k and still look brand new), new coppers in the Tracer (changed &lt;1k miles ago). I'm good for a bit.


----------



## Flyer_PE




----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I like the von Dutch flying eyeball.


----------



## Supe

Finally got my ECU calibration finished for the RX7. Need to try to flash the firmware, do the TPS cal, and fire it back up tonight since making the move to fool injection.


----------



## Supe

Fool injection was right. Turns out my hella-sweet ECU is DOA. Won't sync with the software via USB. Doh.


----------



## Master slacker

Megasquirt... VEAL... done.


----------



## Supe

Never could have had Megasquirt installed and operational in the time frame I had to work with. The Holley software is getting a shit ton of support, and it was a package deal with their hardware. Prefab wiring harness, most of the sensors built right into the throttle body, and one of the better closed loop learning algorithms.


----------



## blybrook PE

Was working on the plow truck the other night and had been noticing an increasing sag on the passenger side.

Jacked up the outer body panel under the A pillar, opened the door and found this:






Expains why I'd been seeing things that had been on the floor behind me when plowing. I knew I had a small hole closer to the transmission tunnel; didn't realize it had grown exponentially... Time for some major cancer repair.

A side note, the black &amp; white lines you see are the fuel lines.


----------



## Lumber Jim

YIKES!!!!


----------



## envirotex

A little WD40 and some duct tape. You'll be good.


----------



## blybrook PE

Was considering a good helping of bailing twine too!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

blybrook PE said:


> Was working on the plow truck the other night and had been noticing an increasing sag on the passenger side.
> 
> Jacked up the outer body panel under the A pillar, opened the door and found this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expains why I'd been seeing things that had been on the floor behind me when plowing. I knew I had a small hole closer to the transmission tunnel; didn't realize it had grown exponentially... Time for some major cancer repair.
> 
> A side note, the black &amp; white lines you see are the fuel lines.




If that was a first gen Bronco, many would consider it rust free.


----------



## blybrook PE

It's better than a Bronco. It's a IH Scout II


----------



## Supe

Nothing a little bondo can't fix.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

blybrook PE said:


> It's better than a Bronco. It's a IH Scout II




I like the 1st gen Scout a lot better. Scout II is still cool, though.

The first gen has that cool leaning tower of power.


----------



## FLBuff PE

That'll (FL)Buff right out.


----------



## snickerd3

holy rustoleum batman...shocked you were even able to jack it up without it crumbling


----------



## Judowolf PE

I kinda like fencing wire as a repair medium


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Judowolf PE said:


> I kinda like fencing wire as a repair medium




1) Spread chicken wire (window screen is even better)

2) Spay foam insulation.

3) Carve to shape

4) Apply resin

5) Spray f-glas with chopper gun

6) Sand

7) Paint

Rear quarters on my 73 Torino looked great.


----------



## blybrook PE

Since I knew the door was still solidly attached, I wasn't afraid to jack under the A pillar. I keep that door locked to hold the cab together.

I may fix it; or I may retire this truck over the summer and move the plow to the other Scout.


----------



## envirotex

blybrook PE said:


> I keep that door locked to hold the cab together.




Safety first.

hmy:


----------



## Judowolf PE

envirotex said:


> blybrook PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep that door locked to hold the cab together.
> 
> 
> 
> Safety first.
> 
> hmy:
Click to expand...

Hard to use the door as a toe hold when it keeps flying open...


----------



## blybrook PE

Judowolf PE said:


> envirotex said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> blybrook PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep that door locked to hold the cab together.
> 
> 
> 
> Safety first.
> 
> hmy:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hard to use the door as a toe hold when it keeps flying open...
Click to expand...

When I first bought the truck, the drivers door didn't latch at all. I had a bungee cord holding it closed; going around right hand corners at speed was fun as the door would swing out; then slam shut when the cord got tight.

Sure got people to slow down that were tailgating.

That was fixed by supporting the A pillar with a chunk of old grader plow steel welded to the frame and lifting the drivers A-Pillar. I will probably do similar with the passenger side now that the entire body support is gone; then work to put in some 1/4" plate steel for a floor board as was previously done on the drivers side.


----------



## MA_PE

Can you actually drive that on the streets?

In MA you can't have any exposed rusted edges on a car when they inspect it. I almost got rejected because the rocker panels on my car were rusted out. They said if i covered the sharp edges with duct tape that would be ok. I had then replaced.


----------



## Road Guy

In Alaska they don't have them liberal inspection laws (I imagine)

I had my clutch replaced in the jeep yesterday, the bad news is they guy at the shop let me walk under the jeep and see how bad parts of the frame are rusted out... Lets just say it ain't good...

I can't decide if I should just list it onncraigslist at a price to move or park next to the bus stop that backs up to our parking lot at work with the keys in it and leave it overnight for some "transit rider" to steal?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> I can't decide if I should just list it onncraigslist at a price to move or park next to the bus stop that backs up to our parking lot at work with the keys in it and leave it overnight for some "transit rider" to steal?


That's not a parked vehicle, it's abandoned.


----------



## Road Guy

But it's my normal parking spot!


----------



## blybrook PE

MA_PE said:


> Can you actually drive that on the streets?
> 
> In MA you can't have any exposed rusted edges on a car when they inspect it. I almost got rejected because the rocker panels on my car were rusted out. They said if i covered the sharp edges with duct tape that would be ok. I had then replaced.




Yes, I can drive it on the streets, without any issues. I made sure it has plates and insurance. It doesn't get over 45 mph unless going downhill, there's no speedometer and it's louder than the extra bass in the souped up cars due to the glass pack muffler; but I only drive it into town when I absolutely need to or if I have a plowing contract to full fill. Otherwise, I have stopped driving it on the main roads; but keep plates and insurance current as it is my primary backup rig.

The last time I drove it to the office, I was asked by the president to park it out back so it doesn't look like a bunch of rednecks work at the firm. I laughed and left it where it sat, but didn't drive it in again since I was having to shuttle my g/f into town since she wouldn't drive her car out to the house and the Scout only has the drivers seat.

There are worse looking vehicles on the road. Mechanically it's sound; but it lived most of its life near the ocean, so it's had a rough time. I've only had it for the past 5 of it's 35 years; the cancer has just gotten worse.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> In Alaska they don't have them liberal inspection laws (I imagine)
> 
> I had my clutch replaced in the jeep yesterday, the bad news is they guy at the shop let me walk under the jeep and see how bad parts of the frame are rusted out... Lets just say it ain't good...
> 
> I can't decide if I should just list it onncraigslist at a price to move or park next to the bus stop that backs up to our parking lot at work with the keys in it and leave it overnight for some "transit rider" to steal?


Since it's a 74, it doesn't need to meet emission standards, so it doesn't get the typical annual inspection that some boroughs have. Fairbanks stopped the inspection program a couple years ago, but it was never considered to be a priority vehicle.

When I last had it in town, the cops that saw it said if I was crazy enough to drive it on the street, they weren't gonna bother me with it unless I damaged another vehicle. I can live with that decision.

As to your frame issue RG, sounds like it's time for a frame off restoration. Sometimes the restoration can make it a better vehicle.


----------



## Road Guy

Bly. What's the full rig look like? (Pic)


----------



## blybrook PE

I thought I had posted a full pic of the rig before; but here's what it looked like when I bought it:












The drivers door hasn't been fixed in the second photo. After tearing the bed off to rebuild it; this is what it looked like just before the new bed was built:






I'll have to take a couple shots of what it looks like now as I don't have anything more recent with me. The one with the bed ripped off is about 3.5 years old. The drivers door had been fixed by this time.


----------



## Road Guy

Man that's awesome, I defin am NOT living right I can tell!

So is that for your personal use to get to work, or just to clear your own property?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

blybrook PE said:


>




That is fbeautiful, man!

America! Fvck yeah!


----------



## MA_PE

With the sides on the plow it looks more like a loader.

they don't require headlights either? why bother with inspection?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> they don't require headlights either? why bother with inspection?




Inspections, bah!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> With the sides on the plow it looks more like a loader.
> 
> they don't require headlights either? why bother with inspection?


If it's wired like most trucks with a plow, the main headlights are disabled and the lights above the plow are used instead...


----------



## Flyer_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> they don't require headlights either? why bother with inspection?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspections, bah!
Click to expand...



Inspections are just one more way for the state to generate some revenue.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Flyer_PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> they don't require headlights either? why bother with inspection?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Inspections, bah!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Inspections are just one more way for the state to generate some revenue.
Click to expand...



Yep. SC did away with them years ago. They were a real PITA, even when actual service stations still existed. No one wanted to perform them.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> Man that's awesome, I defin am NOT living right I can tell!
> 
> So is that for your personal use to get to work, or just to clear your own property?


I use this rig as a backup to my daily driver, or if I need to drive to town for a plowing contract (less likely these past 2 years). I clear my property, the trail / road (1/4 mile) and a few of my neighbor's yards.



> MA_PE, on 26 Apr 2013 - 05:02, said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the sides on the plow it looks more like a loader.
> 
> they don't require headlights either? why bother with inspection?



The sides are known as wings. I have taken them off since I'm not plowing many parking lots and the wings are kinda useless when trying to throw snow to the side of the road. I still have them, should I wish to remount them to the plow at a later date.

Standard headlights are blocked by the plow &amp; provide a really bad glare when they are operational with the plow mounted, so the upper headlights above the hood on the plow frame provide all the light I need / want (usually).

This rig is known as the "Biter". She is called this because when I was loading 'er on the trailer after purchase, the plow rolled off the mount, pinning my leg between the plow &amp; trailer. Had my leg been twisted a few degrees in a different direction, it would have snapped the bone. Thankfully I walked away from that incident; but almost every time I do a repair / wrenching project on it, she draws blood. The winch that was shown in the earlier pictures is off an old mining drill rig and was mounted when I replaced the bed. I used some Channel I had in my scrap pile to mount to the rail ties that were already on the frame. The company that made the winch doesn't make anything rated less than 12k pounds, so I know it'll do the job. It is hydraulically driven off a motor driven pump (controls are shown below) and can lift the entire rig off the ground if I had something strong enough to connect to.

Here are the pictures from last night. The hooks on the side rails of the bed normally have the chains hanging from them, but since I've been pushing snow banks back and getting into the pack, I have all 4 tires chained up for added traction. The chains will be coming off in the coming days when I swap out the tires for summer tires sometime next week.































The interior controls have valves to swap between the plow and the winch. I had problems with the pump clutch, so the winch is temporarily disconnected and I've rerouted the plow lines to the old electric pump that has controls mounted to the gear shifter. I will be remounting the controls and the hydraulic storage tank once I replace the floor on that side of the rig this summer.

She's a blast to drive too..


----------



## Judowolf PE

She's a beaut!


----------



## FLBuff PE

In the process of minivanning it up. The whole car buying process sux. Especially trying to get fair value for a trade in.


----------



## Judowolf PE

If you can sell it outright, you are much better off...gives you much more bargaining power


----------



## snickerd3

why minivan? There are other options for the same amount of space. The honda pilot has lots of room and a nicer drive than a minivan


----------



## Judowolf PE

or the Nissan Armada (what I drive)


----------



## blybrook PE

Or go after a Subaru. Them things are prolific around these parts.


----------



## snickerd3

^ I love the subaru commercial with the kid and greatgrandma in the back seat on the way to a wedding (or something else fancy) where the GGrandma turns to the kid and stick out her tongue real quick then turns back facing front


----------



## Flyer_PE

I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.


----------



## Road Guy

I swapped out my fenders on the jeep today.. About 3 hours total.. My old ones had completely rusted trough where the flares were...


This is the final picture... 


Hard to tell but it dd away with the factory turn signals.. I guess gives room or bigger tires... You can see the turn. Signal is sort of tucked away..

Man someone had fun with this jeep before me. I think when I removed the battery tray I found 2 buckets of dried mud cake...


----------



## blybrook PE

Looks like a great project there RG. Would be a fun one to run some trails with too.


----------



## Judowolf PE

Flyer_PE said:


> I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.


Flyer, I have an 02 GMC Sierra Crew 2500, it's awesome, I'd stick with the 99 if you're not having trouble with it. I put a 3" lift on mine and 33inch BF Mud Terrains and that beast will go about anywhere...


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Not having any real trouble with it other than I think the exposure to road salt here is starting to take its toll on the underside of the truck. I ruptured a brake line last fall and I'm beginning to wonder what the next "surprise" is going to be. Even with that, the main driver for a possible change is that I'd like to switch from an extended cab to a crew cab due to my son getting bigger.


----------



## Judowolf PE

^The crew cab is nice and mine's not a daily driver, so it might be worthwhile to trade up in your case...


----------



## Master slacker

Fuel line / fitting is next. Those are a bitch to change.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^That's what I'm expecting. I really don't want to mess with the fuel system on this thing. The decision for me right now is whether to gamble on it holding together for one more year.


----------



## envirotex

Brakes are out in the Land Cruiser...it's been sitting a while, and Mr. Tex thought it could be air in the lines or siezed calipers, but it wasn't. Replacing the brake booster next...


----------



## Supe

Added another heat shield to my fuel lines on the driver's side. That makes three. REALLY don't want fuel lines letting go at 43 PSI right on top of the exhaust.


----------



## Road Guy

is there much danger to grinding off some bolts right next to the fuel lines? I do that a lot on my rust bucket..


----------



## Supe

I throw something in the way if it's going directly at them or they're rubber lines, but that's it.

I had to drill a hole in a half-full gas tank last week. That was nearly a "hey y'all, watch this" kind of moment.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Please tell me you didn't do it with a lit cigarette in your mouth...


----------



## pbrme

Dexman PE said:


> ^^^ Please tell me you didn't do it with a lit cigarette in your mouth...


And a PBR in one hand...


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> ^^^ Please tell me you didn't do it with a lit cigarette in your mouth...




Lit with a propane torch, of course.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

A true "watch this" moment, for sure!


----------



## blybrook PE

especially if the torch is left running nearby.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

What's that bucket full of oily rags doing over there by the acetelene tank?


----------



## blybrook PE

keeping the propane &amp; oxy tanks warm


----------



## Road Guy

supe, did you ever put the EB.com sticker on the car?


----------



## blybrook PE

pics or it didn't happen


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> supe, did you ever put the EB.com sticker on the car?




I never got it! I was wondering if you'd forgotten about it...


----------



## Road Guy

serioulsy? I did mail it.. damn post office!


----------



## Supe

Seriously. It would have been on there within about 5 minutes otherwise!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> ^^^ Please tell me you didn't do it with a lit cigarette in your mouth...




Smokey Yunick would have!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Flyer_PE said:


> I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.




All new, totally redisigned GM pickups will be hitting the dealers soon, if not already. May be some good deals on the current body style.


----------



## Supe

So it turns out the fuel-safe JB Weld isn't very fuel safe anymore. I don't know if its the ethanol or what, but I was using it to seal two aluminum pickup tubes in my fuel pickup, and it turned it back to an almost rubber-like state. Ended up removing the tubes and drilling it out for bulkhead fittings instead.

Also changed over to a radiator hose filler neck on the intake manifold that has a radiator cap on it, since my radiator is now mounted a good bit lower than the intake, and it would be a nightmare adding coolant and burping the system otherwise. Unfortunately, I think I'll have to redo it, since the radiator hose moved on me and raised the coolant level in the intake, so I'm betting the gasket got saturated before it cured. If it did, I'll rip it off again tonight and just use a fat bead of permatex instant gasket and call it a day.


----------



## jeb6294

I am torn...sporty 2-door "family" car or "family" truck?

I drove a '10 Accord Coupe with the V-6 yesterday. It was a hoot to drive and looks like it actually has a usable back seat. At another place they had an '09 Chevy extended cab (not a crew cab but with the full bench seat in the back) so it should work with the kids. The Accord was pretty much the top-of-the-line while the truck was a "work"truck so A/C and cruise but power nothing and 4WD is a stick on the floor but that is actually fine with me.

The Accord would be a lot of fun but the truck would be nice for hauling stuff around and I could get rid of the crappy trailer.


----------



## MA_PE

I expect that the Accord will be better on gas, but the truck is certianly more useful. If you do a lot of driving then I'd lean toward the car.


----------



## Supe

You'll be much happier with the car in the long run. Don't buy a truck on the premise that you'll need a truck 2% of the time.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> I expect that the Accord will be better on gas, but the truck is certianly more useful. If you do a lot of driving then I'd lean toward the car.




Concur.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All new, totally redisigned GM pickups will be hitting the dealers soon, if not already. May be some good deals on the current body style.
Click to expand...



That's one of the reasons I'm holding out for now. I'm also seriously considering switching to the blue oval. Comparing GM and Ford at the auto show, the Fords had much better fit and finish. I'm not a big fan of a turbo-charged V6 in a truck though. If I go that route, I'll have to hunt one down with the 5.0 V8.

Either way, I figure I'll wait 'til the 2014s come out and see what the available discounts are.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Flyer_PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All new, totally redisigned GM pickups will be hitting the dealers soon, if not already. May be some good deals on the current body style.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> That's one of the reasons I'm holding out for now. I'm also seriously considering switching to the blue oval. Comparing GM and Ford at the auto show, the Fords had much better fit and finish. I'm not a big fan of a turbo-charged V6 in a truck though. If I go that route, I'll have to hunt one down with the 5.0 V8.
> 
> Either way, I figure I'll wait 'til the 2014s come out and see what the available discounts are.
Click to expand...



OTR trucks have been using turbos for decades...I wouldn't worry about it. I know they were pretty much like strapping a grenade to the block in the eighties, but I've moved past that mindset. Small displacement w/turbos is the future.

That being said, if I was buying new, I'd go Ford myself. Dodge Ram makes a compelling product, but it is still, well, a Dodge Ram.

And this from a long term Mother Mopar fan.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

jeb6294 said:


> I am torn...sporty 2-door "family" car or "family" truck?


You know which way I would lean...


----------



## blybrook PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> All new, totally redisigned GM pickups will be hitting the dealers soon, if not already. May be some good deals on the current body style.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's one of the reasons I'm holding out for now. I'm also seriously considering switching to the blue oval. Comparing GM and Ford at the auto show, the Fords had much better fit and finish. I'm not a big fan of a turbo-charged V6 in a truck though. If I go that route, I'll have to hunt one down with the 5.0 V8.
> 
> Either way, I figure I'll wait 'til the 2014s come out and see what the available discounts are.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OTR trucks have been using turbos for decades...I wouldn't worry about it. I know they were pretty much like strapping a grenade to the block in the eighties, but I've moved past that mindset. Small displacement w/turbos is the future.
> 
> That being said, if I was buying new, I'd go Ford myself. Dodge Ram makes a compelling product, but it is still, well, a Dodge Ram.
> 
> And this from a long term Mother Mopar fan.
Click to expand...

I've been a blue oval fan my whole life. Family members didn't have good luck with the chevy line of vehicles and Fords kept us going.

New truck is a Dodge and that's only because they are the ONLY manufacturer that will put a manual transmission in their full size pickups. Ford discontinued it in '08 or '09. Sure shocked the dealer rep when I got up and left when he told me he couldn't get the manual transmission. I know the owner didn't like it either when I explained it to him after he stopped me in the parking lot.


----------



## Lumber Jim

jeb6294 said:


> I am torn...sporty 2-door "family" car or "family" truck?
> 
> I drove a '10 Accord Coupe with the V-6 yesterday. It was a hoot to drive and looks like it actually has a usable back seat. At another place they had an '09 Chevy extended cab (not a crew cab but with the full bench seat in the back) so it should work with the kids. The Accord was pretty much the top-of-the-line while the truck was a "work"truck so A/C and cruise but power nothing and 4WD is a stick on the floor but that is actually fine with me.
> 
> The Accord would be a lot of fun but the truck would be nice for hauling stuff around and I could get rid of the crappy trailer.




Get the car and save your pennies to trade up from a crappy trailer to a beater truck.

I would normally say go for the truck straight away (i'm a blue oval guy myself) but I find that we spend way too much money on gas. Sure is nice in the winter though...


----------



## jeb6294

Given my commute is only 12 miles now, most of the time the mileage wouldn't make too much of a difference. Would only take a few longer drives to make a big difference though. I do have to say, that little Accord was fun. I had a new '97 Cobra way back when that was packing a 305hp DOHC V-8 and this Accord was every bit as fast.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

jeb6294 said:


> Given my commute is only 12 miles now, most of the time the mileage wouldn't make too much of a difference. Would only take a few longer drives to make a big difference though. I do have to say, that little Accord was fun. I had a new '97 Cobra way back when that was packing a 305hp DOHC V-8 and this Accord was every bit as fast.




Isn't progress funny? Now the base Mustang has more HP than that.

And gets far better mileage!

We live in great times!


----------



## Flyer_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently trying to decide whether to keep Old Blue ('99 GMC Sierra) for another year or upgrade to a new(er) Big A$$ Truck. I'm caught between being unwilling to fork over the money for a brand new vehicle and figuring as far as used goes, it's better to deal with the devil you know. Right now, I'm figuring on sinking some money into the old beast since I still like it and the upkeep is still a damn sight cheaper than an upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All new, totally redisigned GM pickups will be hitting the dealers soon, if not already. May be some good deals on the current body style.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> That's one of the reasons I'm holding out for now. I'm also seriously considering switching to the blue oval. Comparing GM and Ford at the auto show, the Fords had much better fit and finish. I'm not a big fan of a turbo-charged V6 in a truck though. If I go that route, I'll have to hunt one down with the 5.0 V8.
> 
> Either way, I figure I'll wait 'til the 2014s come out and see what the available discounts are.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> OTR trucks have been using turbos for decades...I wouldn't worry about it. I know they were pretty much like strapping a grenade to the block in the eighties, but I've moved past that mindset. Small displacement w/turbos is the future.
> 
> That being said, if I was buying new, I'd go Ford myself. Dodge Ram makes a compelling product, but it is still, well, a Dodge Ram.
> 
> And this from a long term Mother Mopar fan.
Click to expand...



If it were a little diesel with a blower on it, I'd be on it like white on rice. For a gas engine, I'll take the normally aspirated 8 since the power and fuel economy numbers are similar enough to be a wash for how I use the truck.


----------



## jeb6294

On paper the Accord's V-6 makes ~270hp which is pretty good for a little car like that. Given it's a Honda I'm willing to bet there about 5 million products out there to boost that number even higher. The trick would be doing ti without looking like a high school douchebag.

The Ecoboost engines sound pretty impressive, but I know when I researched them for our current Explorer I found out their HP and mpg numbers were very "optimistic" so we went with the V-6.


----------



## Supe

Finally got the RX fired up yesterday with fuel injection. Relatively drama free all things considered. Rich as heck right now and stumbling a bit at idle, but no major issues. Have to give the Holley system credit, it does a great job catching itself from stalling out when it's on the verge of doing so.


----------



## envirotex

So. Rebuilt brakes and calipers, check. Brake booster, check. Master cylinder, check. Still almost impossible to get the cruiser to stop quickly...any ideas? It needs an inpsection, and I'm afraid the brakes won't pass...


----------



## pbrme

Did you bleed the lines? Sounds like air pockets.


----------



## MA_PE

agreed. Is the pedal spongy?

Are you losing fluid?


----------



## Supe

Was the master cylinder bench bled?


----------



## blybrook PE

Fragged the warn hub assembly last night while plowing:






















The rotor hub assembly is toast. All of the holes are wallowed out and it was GR 8 bolts that snapped, I'm not about to try to drill them out. I pulled a spare rotor assembly off my future D44 axle and swapped out the rotors this morning. The one on the D44 was a goner, will repack the bearings later today after I get a confirmed order made on the new Warn hubs. I can get used for 1/2 price on ebay, but I'd rather buy new and get the longer warranty; specially since I plan to rebuild that D44 and swap it into the truck to replace the D30 that's in there now.

I have sent these same photos on to Warn for their review / commentary. I know they have lifetime warranties on it, but I wasn't the original purchaser, so I have to believe that it's a moot point.

She's a torque monster!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Manual locking hubs...now there's a blast from the past.


----------



## Lumber Jim

I always liked the manual locking hubs cuz I tend to distrust electronics. I had two problems with them though: Muddy shoes almost every time I needed to use them and forgetting that I had them locked in when the snow melted in the spring.

Impressive pics Bly!!


----------



## envirotex

pbrme said:


> Did you bleed the lines? Sounds like air pockets.


Yes.


----------



## envirotex

Supe said:


> Was the master cylinder bench bled?


Yes.


----------



## envirotex

Although, Mr. Tex thinks the brakes may need to be power bled...Any ideas on better ways to bleed them before we haul it off to the shop? We've done a gravity bleed, forced a swimming pool worth of fluid through, hard stomping on the brake pedal, slow pumping on the brakes, fast pumping on the brakes...nothing fixes it so far.


----------



## pbrme

Is it an ABS system?


----------



## Supe

Have the rubber brake hoses been replaced? If you're moving fluid through the system during bleeding, then one of your brake hoses is probably expanding.


----------



## envirotex

pbrme said:


> Is it an ABS system?


No.



Supe said:


> Have the rubber brake hoses been replaced? If you're moving fluid through the system during bleeding, then one of your brake hoses is probably expanding.


No, but they are fairly new and seem OK. Mr. Tex is threatening to drive it into the lake...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

envirotex said:


> Mr. Tex is threatening to drive it into the lake...




Believable enough. "Brakes failed."

Tell him to make sure he gets wet.


----------



## blybrook PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Manual locking hubs...now there's a blast from the past.




Not really a blast from the past, they are on all of my rigs (except the 2012). I prefer them to the new "electronic" or the auto hubs which have problems when you are trying to rock a vehicle. As soon as they make a conversion kit for my '12, I'll be putting manual hubs on it! I don't like having it unlock and then relock when switching between forward &amp; reverse.



Lumber Jim said:


> I always liked the manual locking hubs cuz I tend to distrust electronics. I had two problems with them though: Muddy shoes almost every time I needed to use them and forgetting that I had them locked in when the snow melted in the spring.
> 
> Impressive pics Bly!!




Thanks! So far every parts house I've taken it into to request the replacement parts can't believe I did that to a Warn hub. Especially when plowing! I don't mind leaving it locked in for short trips; but will unlock them for longer road trips to save fuel.


----------



## Road Guy

supe - decal on the way (again)

Hope it gets there this time!!!!


----------



## Supe

Thanks! I'll keep a lookout for it.


----------



## mudpuppy

blybrook PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Manual locking hubs...now there's a blast from the past.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not really a blast from the past, they are on all of my rigs (except the 2012). I prefer them to the new "electronic" or the auto hubs which have problems when you are trying to rock a vehicle. As soon as they make a conversion kit for my '12, I'll be putting manual hubs on it! I don't like having it unlock and then relock when switching between forward &amp; reverse.
Click to expand...



I think I mentioned this on here a while back, but the Ford Superduty trucks used to come with hubs that were auto locking, but could also manually be locked. I don't think they offer these any more, but it sounds convenient to have the auto feature and still be able to lock them out for plowing.


----------



## blybrook PE

MP, they still come with it (as of the '12 model year); but are plagued with problems. They are air actuated and only keep their seal for about 2 uses after installation; after that, you are better off manually locking in the hubs if you want any true 4wd.

A few friends that have these trucks have all swapped out their factory hubs for true manual hubs and their problems with their axles dropped immediately. The main issue with the bad seals was it was permitting water into the bearings while performing water crossings.

On another note, the last chance shop in town had 3 sets of hubs on the shelf and were at a price LOWER than anywhere else in town (and didn't have to deal with shipping waits). Now to get some more 3/8" dia. GR 5 or GR 8 bolts to reassemble the axle and I'll be back on the road tonight!


----------



## jeb6294

So here's another question on the new car front. Would I be nuts to buy a Pontiac?

The only one I would considering is an '09 G8 GT. It trounced the Charger in all the comparisons when it came out and, with 4 doors room for the kids and a 360hp V8 under the hood, it looks like it would be the best family car ever!

My biggest concern would be parts/repairs. Do you suppose there are enough similarities to Chevy that it would be an issue or should I just run away? I found one close that is a certified '09 with 66k on it so at least it would have some warranty for about the next year or so, but it won't do me any good if they can't get parts.

One other thought I had was, maybe I should get the truck and then start saving the pennies for another motorcycle...truck for workin and a bike for the gas mpg's.


----------



## Master slacker

The G8 is full of good ole Chevy parts. The LS2 and transmission (whatever flavor you choose) are standard bowtie issue for the most part. Being a four year old car and a Chevy, you'll have no problem finding parts for it. my two cents.


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> The G8 is full of good ole Chevy parts. The LS2 and transmission (whatever flavor you choose) are standard bowtie issue for the most part. Being a four year old car and a Chevy, you'll have no problem finding parts for it. my two cents.




X2. Cosmetic parts will be the toughest to replace on those, not so much the mechanicals. I say go for it, I'd love to have one myself, but when you find one, they don't often come cheap unless they're very high mileage and have been heavily ragged on.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Be advised the G8 is built in Australia and every dang thing on it, save the engine/tranny is unique to that car. Now that Chevy has basically the same car in the SS, you may be OK, but generally, I stay far away from the craptastic Australian stuff. They are nice designs, but there are build quality issues.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The old G8 and the new SS are essentially 4-door versions of the Camaro. Like others have said, the only issue would be with replacement body parts since it's a discontinued car/brand, but most of the inner workings are full-blown Chevy. The car is build on the Holden Monaro platform from Austrailia, and when Chevy merged with Holden, they decided to take that very popular model stateside.


----------



## Master slacker

And if you ever got tired of the original engine or transmission, you could rob a block from a Camaro, GTO, Chevy truck or van, GMC truck or van. Transmission would be almost as available.


----------



## jeb6294

Went and test drove a G8 the other day. Man, that was fun. I don't think I would ever pull the trigger though. The one I looked at was in really nice shape for 66k on it, but there were a few things that kind of bugged me. Being Aussie, the key is one of those switchblade keys. We had those years ago with our Audi. I hate those keys. The other problem is that the fob was beat to hell to the point that the unlock button was just gone. Good luck finding a new one. Also, the radio/HVAC is all combined and kind of cheesy looking so if I ever wanted to do anything with the sound system...can't do it. Driving it seemed like you had to either go or stop. Trying to pull away from lights like a normal person, the engine was a little testy and the tranny felt kind of clunky. Now if you want to tromp on it every time you pull away you don't have that problem but your mpg is going to go down the toilet and you tend to attract the wrong kind of attention. Since this is something that I'm probably going to be driving for a long time, stuff like that bothered me. That being said, in several years I could totally see an SS being a viable option.

For now, I've been looking online and have my eye on a couple Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cabs. And if you even have to ask me if I'm looking for one with a Hemi then we are no longer on speaking terms.


----------



## blybrook PE

Well Jeb, the new Ram 1500's have a diesel option 

Although, diesel prices right now are higher than gas; I still haven't figured out the attraction of having a diesel in a 1/2 ton truck. The frame isn't heavy enough to work the diesel properly under a full load.

Good luck with whatever you choose, but sounds like a good call on the G8.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Jeb, I believe most Chevy's have that new switchblade key now (at least my Camaro does). I've already had to replace mine (under warranty), and they're about $75 for a new one from the dealership. I understand what you mean about the go/stop feeling of the engine, but with some miles you get better with it. It took me a couple months to really get used to driving my Camaro in traffic. It is a 6sp manual transmission, and to help with the go/stop part I find myself shifting sooner (usually shift before 3500 RPM's) and bypassing gears. I can even get going from a dead stop in 2nd gear without using the gas pedal. These have enough horsepower you don't hardly have to put any pressure on the gas pedal, unlike some of the more conventional V-6's and I4's. That being said, I'm still turning 21mpg with mixed city/highway.

The Radio/HVAC thing is a bit of an issue, as the Camaro has something similar. But the stock system is still very powerful and has more features than what I was used to finding within aftermarket systems. It's very easy to upgrade speakers and add a subwoofer to these without needing to upgrade the head unit. However, it's one big expensive unit to replace if one thing goes wrong...


----------



## Supe

Sounds like my Saturn. POS stereo, but if I go double din to get rid of it, I lose all functionality with the steering wheel, CANBUS system, computer display on the dash, etc.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> That being said, I'm still turning 21mpg with mixed city/highway.




Hey, that's pretty impressive! My Maxx, with the 3500 V6 gets almost 20 in pure city driving.


----------



## jeb6294

I did a quick check on Crutchfield just to see what was available nowadays and one of the accessories they have listed is an adaptor for the steering wheel controls so hopefully they've got something to keep that working. I've gotten used to it in my current car to the point that it is almost a must-have on a replacement. That was another issue with the G8, I wasn't crazy about the steering wheel controls. Something silly and I would probably get used to it but it just wasn't doing it for me.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The one thing I really like about the Camaro's stereo system is that it comes with a USB port in the center armrest. I have about 2GB of music uploaded to a thumbdrive plugged into it that I can control with the steering wheel. It works the same way if I plug my Droid phone or wife's iPhone into it. I really haven't listened to the radio since...


----------



## jeb6294

Our current Explorer has 2 USB ports in the storage bin under the stereo along with RCA inputs so you can plug some sort of video player in and watch on the touchscreen. One thing that is really nice is that it will connect to cell phones via Bluetooth for calls but will also access music and play that wirelessly too. The Accord's that my wife has been looking at to replace the Explorer have USB ports on the center console. Mine doesn't have any of that but I found a box that I had installed that lets me plug my iPod in and it'll play it through the stereo and let me control it with my steering wheel controls.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Yeah, I have the bluetooth part too, but I manage to break/reset my cellphone often enough that I never really setup any of it because I know I'll have to redo it again.


----------



## Road Guy

My jeep has one of this cassette tapes you put in with a wire in it that you plug into your iPod.... It's pretty freaking awesome!


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> My jeep has one of this cassette tapes you put in with a wire in it that you plug into your iPod.... It's pretty freaking awesome!






I wish I even had that much. When they imported the ASTRA, what _was_ the aux input on the back of the stereo became the input for their OnStar setup which I've never used since the free trial expired 5 years ago. I had to buy one of the FM modulator boxes (that splice inline with your antenna) just to be able to install my Sirius.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I really wanted to buy an Astra back in 2008, but everything on it was....um....not GM standard.


----------



## Supe

Yup.

Even the clock is a 24 hour clock. Good looking car and great gas mileage, but that's about where it ends. I'm just waiting for it to blow up so I can put an LS1 in and make a new hillclimb car out of it.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Speaking of blowing up, a HUGE turnoff with the Astra for me was the timing belt. A BELT for Pete's sake. That's so eighties.

The Astra's really are nice, just too idiosyncratic for me.


----------



## MA_PE

I'm looking at a 97 firebird Formula with the LT1 350. What do you guys think og that motor? the car currently has ~97k on it, but it looks clean.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I like it, but it had a very short production run and there isn't much aftermarket support. I'd go for a 98 and later for the LS engine, although I think the restyle was horrible.


----------



## Master slacker

I have a '96 Impala SS with the LT1. The engine itself is typically good up to 200k. The only "big" issues with it are the Optispark and plug access (for the F-bodies, not so much with the B-bodies). At 97k miles, if it hasn't been run into the ground, the engine internals should still be in good condition.

It all depends on what you plan on doing with it. If you're looking for performance, check out Advanced Induction or Lloyed Elliot for heads / cam combos. If it has a manual transmission you'd be fine. If it has the automatic, it would need to be replaced to handle the power increase.


----------



## Supe

AT 97K, I'd be surprised if the optispark hasn't already been replaced.


----------



## Road Guy

for the newer car-washes anyone think I will ruin my soft top on the jeep if i drive it through one of those "touchless" car washes?

I got a used soft top but the thing is f'n filthy. I was hoping to let it do some scrubbing for me?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The chemicals added to the touchless car wash soaps will cause your paint to fade and still arent effective. The only way to get all of the dirt/grime off is with a clean brush.


----------



## Road Guy

yes but i am very lazy... maybe this is something my kids can do?


----------



## Supe

Give them a bottle of Simple Green and some nylon brushes and have them go to town on the top.


----------



## jeb6294

It's a Jeep. Just take it through the regular car wash candy ass.


----------



## FLBuff PE

With the top down, wuss.


----------



## Road Guy

Those are the answers I was looking for!


----------



## blybrook PE

So one of the admin staff stops by my desk and asks if I can look at her truck about 45 minutes ago. Her husband swapped out the winter tires for summer (removal of studded tires) the other night and was apparently really proud of himself, but she had a weird knock and wobble on the way to work this morning once she hit 60mph. She knew it was coming from the left front tire, so I head out to take a look and the tire isn't sitting straight. Grab a hold of the wheel to check for a bad bearing and the whole rim starts moving as the lug nuts weren't tight. I tested the lugs with my fingers and find that they're not even finger tight. Not good; she's really starting to freak out at this point and her husband is in one of the bush communities, so he wasn't available to contact for adequate chiding purposes by me or the ever growing crowd as I was making repairs.

I ask her where her lug socket was because these are fancy rims and have them stupid special locking lug nuts. She has no clue, so we tear apart the interior of the truck, finding only the original stock components that are of no use what so ever. I start digging through my toolbox and find that a 3/4" 6 sided socket will work; albeit not the right tool for the job and a little loose (probably metric, but I don't carry those). I also get out my bottle jack since she doesn't even have a jack in her truck that can reach the frame or axle housing and I knew I had to lift the wheel to recenter things properly. Her husband is becoming more of an idiot to me by the minute as he apparently had to borrow a jack from his work to change the tires in the first place.

Once the wheel was reset on the hub, I lowered the truck back to the ground and asked her how her husband tightened the lugs; she responded with a wrench. I asked if it was a torque wrench and she said no, just a standard socket wrench. I'm just glad she knew the difference. I went around and checked all of the lugs and re-torqued them all to 120 ft-lbs, finding only one other loose lug out of 18 on the remaining wheels (right rear). I've already advised her to chide her husband when she gets the chance to get the appropriate tools in the truck should she need them in the future. I also showed her my bottle jack, an Home Depot 12 ton model that sells for around $40. Thankfully, she responded that she'll go buy a jack on the way home tonight and dig through the tools at home to find the appropriate socket for the lugs and get it in the truck. I also recommended she buy a torque wrench and keep it where she can re-torque the lugs after changing the tires.

Since I've been back to my desk, I've recommended she either start calling her husband "wobbles" or "lugs" until further notice. Some people just shouldn't be around vehicles.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Road Guy said:


> Those are the answers I was looking for!




I thought you were just about ready for a Leaf.


----------



## Ble_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those are the answers I was looking for!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you were just about ready for a Leaf.
Click to expand...



Na, he's still living in the wrong part of the country for that. Give him time...


----------



## Master slacker

But he could be on the leading edge of a trend for the area!


----------



## MA_PE

FLBuff PE said:


> With the top down, wuss.


but his goal was to wash the top. :dunno:

Bly, call me a hack but I have never torqued a lug nut in my life. I just put them on f'n tight.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> FLBuff PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> With the top down, wuss.
> 
> 
> 
> but his goal was to wash the top. :dunno:
> 
> Bly, call me a hack but I have never torqued a lug nut in my life. I just put them on f'n tight.
Click to expand...

Damn skippy!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I don't even own a torque wrench.


----------



## Road Guy

me either (torqued a lug nut) (well for a car i means)

I thought people in AK were more self sufficient than that?


----------



## Supe

Before my first race with the Mazda, my buddy torqued the one wheel we had off. He's the lead mechanic at a local Audi dealership. I asked him WTF he was doing, and he couldn't believe that I always just used a T bar and not a torque wrench. When I was about to leave for the second trip up the mountain, the flag guy waves me to stop. Sure enough, one of the torqued lugnuts had backed all the way off and was laying on the ground next to my wheel. All the others that weren't torqued were still tight.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I see the problem:



Supe said:


> He's the lead mechanic at a local Audi dealership.


----------



## Supe

I bust his balls with Audi jokes all the time, but he's actually pretty dang good at what he does, and is an electrical troubleshooting whiz. I bring my race cars to him when I need goofy alignments done.


----------



## mudpuppy

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FLBuff PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> With the top down, wuss.
> 
> 
> 
> but his goal was to wash the top. :dunno:
> 
> Bly, call me a hack but I have never torqued a lug nut in my life. I just put them on f'n tight.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn skippy!
Click to expand...

+1


----------



## blybrook PE

The local tire shops use torque sticks with the impact guns. I've had more loose lugs than I care to think of. I only started using a torque wrench instead of the t-bar or my breaker bar after getting one so f'n tight, no one could back it off. That and I snapped the lugs on another rig before I got to where I thought it was tight enough.

After starting to use the torque wrench, I've not had one single problem with a loose lug nut or snapping off the lug itself.


----------



## envirotex

I wonder if the thieves are bored NASCAR pit crews...

http://www.kxan.com/dpp/news/local/williamson/wheels-and-tires-stripped-from-48-cars-at-dealership


----------



## MA_PE

envirotex said:


> I wonder if the thieves are bored NASCAR pit crews...
> 
> http://www.kxan.com/dpp/news/local/williamson/wheels-and-tires-stripped-from-48-cars-at-dealership


The theives must have had a good sized truck . You'd need something substantial to transport the blocks to the site and the tires out.

Shame on the dealership for not have any video surveillance.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

envirotex said:


> I wonder if the thieves are bored NASCAR pit crews...
> 
> http://www.kxan.com/dpp/news/local/williamson/wheels-and-tires-stripped-from-48-cars-at-dealership




Similar thing happened here: http://www.wltx.com/news/story.aspx?storyid=209187


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ The dealership I used to work at had a similar problem but instead of stealing the 4 main tires, the thieves went after the spares from the full-sized trucks the lined the back of the lot. They had absolutely no idea when the spares were stolen and only realized the issue when one of the customers complained after purchasing. "Oh, your truck is missing it's spare. No problem, we'll just take one from one of the other.....oh $hit."


----------



## Supe

Now featuring the EB.com bumper stickers.


----------



## MA_PE

^nice.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Article on the Mercedes pagoda roof SLs.

http://ateupwithmotor.com/luxury-and-personal-luxury-cars/309-mercedes-w113-roadster-history.html


----------



## Road Guy

sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

wait, crap now am I paying advertising??


----------



## Supe

Feel free to throw any non-bumper sticker related sponsorship dollars this way. Gas and entry fees aren't cheap!


----------



## FLBuff PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> Article on the Mercedes pagoda roof SLs.
> 
> http://ateupwithmotor.com/luxury-and-personal-luxury-cars/309-mercedes-w113-roadster-history.html


I got me one of these, circa 1966. I'm looking to unload it, though. Needs work, and I don't have the time or fund$ to get it running properly.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

FLBuff PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Article on the Mercedes pagoda roof SLs.
> 
> http://ateupwithmotor.com/luxury-and-personal-luxury-cars/309-mercedes-w113-roadster-history.html
> 
> 
> 
> I got me one of these, circa 1966. I'm looking to unload it, though. Needs work, and I don't have the time or fund$ to get it running properly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 36.jpg
Click to expand...



I knew someone had one, but couldn't remember who.


----------



## envirotex

"Needs work, and I don't have the time or fund$ to get it running properly."

No one ever does.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

This will pretty much kill your productivity for a while.

http://www.carsinbarns.com/


----------



## Master slacker

Capt Worley PE said:


> This will pretty much kill your productivity for a while.
> 
> http://www.carsinbarns.com/




http://www.carsinbarns.com/Bowties%20In%20Barns/pg34.html

WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT WANT


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> sweet!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> wait, crap now am I paying advertising??


If you're paying for ad space, I've got a vertical stabilizer with a lot of room on it......


----------



## envirotex

Capt Worley PE said:


> This will pretty much kill your productivity for a while.
> 
> http://www.carsinbarns.com/




Some of these look my garage and storage unit. 

http://www.carsinbarns.com/Blue%20Ovals%20In%20Barns/Images/boss302.jpg


----------



## jeb6294

Well, the gas guzzling Explorer is gone. Traded it in on Sunday for a 2011 Honda Accord (a 4-door). So we replaced our 2012 with a car that was one year older but had the same mileage on it. We got a certified EX-L so it is loaded, but it's still not quite as fancy as the Explorer was. That isn't necessarily a bad thing though. We figured out that we weren't even using a lot of the "stuff" the Explorer could do and, even though we'd only had it a little over a year, we were already starting to notice glitches. That odd "clunk" from the transmission that is apparently a common problem but Ford has no idea what it is was a little disconcerting as well.

The wife is (supposedly) going to be paying for this one so I'll keep my 116k mile Malibu for a little while longer so I can enjoy a month or two without a car payment and then it'll be my turn to go shopping...and possibly get a gas guzzling truck.


----------



## MA_PE

good luck with the new ride.


----------



## Supe

Buy a Raptor, Jeb!


----------



## Lumber Jim

Supe said:


> Buy a Raptor, Jeb!


+1


----------



## Capt Worley PE

The Abandoned Supercars Of Dubai

http://four-pins.com/life/the-abandoned-supercars-of-dubai/


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> Buy a Raptor, Jeb!


Oh, if only money were no object I'd be all over that.

Since I'm in no huge hurry anymore I've been casually looking around. I seem to be leaning towards 2009+ Dodge 1500's (with the Hemi). I think that was the the latest style change and the Hemi has the multi-diplacement thinga-ma-jiggy that makes it a 4-banger when you're cruising which helps the fuel economy. Not that I don't like any of the others, but the F-150's and Chevy/GMC's all seem to be a lot more $$$ for similar trucks.

I also found out that I can take a loan out against my TSP (Gubment version of a 401k) and the interest rate is whatever the G-fund is at. Right now it's at 1.375%. They take the monthly payment straight from your check to pay back the loan and the interest you pay just goes back into your account. Is it just me or does it seem like this is basically a free loan with the exception of the $50 loan fee?


----------



## Supe

I've made the decision to just spend the last few thousand dollars to finish the EB.com racecar.. Race is a month away, but the coilovers have a 2.5 week lead time since the housings have to be custom made. Yeesh.


----------



## blybrook PE

Jeb,

the 2009 year was the 4th Gen body style change on the Dodges. The 2013's had some other changes too; but I've yet to hear them called 5th Gen. Good luck on your search!


----------



## jeb6294

I've discovered that when I go to the various websites, if I broaden my search area to within 75-100 miles around Cincinnati there are some pretty nice looking trucks that are several thousand cheaper than what they are around here. I'm guessing they are either more common out in the boonies or the dealers don't have the overhead to worry about. Either way, it should be a good way to get a dealer around here to drop their price because I certainly don't have a problem driving an hour to save $2-3,000.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

*1983 **Buick Riviera Twin Turbo. The Official Pace Car of the 67th Annual Indianapolis 500 Race.*

http://www.rivieraconvertible.com/pacecar.htm


----------



## snickerd3

jeb6294 said:


> I've discovered that when I go to the various websites, if I broaden my search area to within 75-100 miles around Cincinnati there are some pretty nice looking trucks that are several thousand cheaper than what they are around here. I'm guessing they are either more common out in the boonies or the dealers don't have the overhead to worry about. Either way, it should be a good way to get a dealer around here to drop their price because I certainly don't have a problem driving an hour to save $2-3,000.


That's basically what we did for my car. we did internet searches within a 100 mile radius of us, asked for quotes from them all then went to one of the closer ones and said can you beat this offer? If not, goodbye. They offered $500 lower than the cheapest we found...standard rule for their dealership. so the drive was an hr instead of 2hr to get to the dealer.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Capt Worley PE said:


> *1983 **Buick Riviera Twin Turbo. The Official Pace Car of the 67th Annual Indianapolis 500 Race.*
> 
> http://www.rivieraconvertible.com/pacecar.htm


A pre-cursor to the Grand Nationals later raced in Nascar.


----------



## snickerd3

so Friday mr snick picks up his brand new company vehicle from the closest Toyota dealer. IT has 6 miles on it when he gets it. There were 60 miles on it by the time he got home. Friday evening he went to move the car on the drive way and the check engine light goes on....according to the manual it is something to get looked at right away, but not a do not drive warning. We drove it around this weekend and when the engine goes to change gears the whole car chugs like the gears are slipping....kind of annoying really. Brand spanking new car and he already has to spend time at the dealership.


----------



## MA_PE

Did the dealer prep guys forget to fill it with fluids?


----------



## Master slacker

It's chugging because of the extra load through the exhaust. Get the muffler bearings replaced as it's likely too late to just grease them up.


----------



## snickerd3

MA_PE said:


> Did the dealer prep guys forget to fill it with fluids?




THat would be funny given the headache he went through just getting the car. HR said the dealership has car they sent them the deivery slips etc. He gets there to pick up and they say we don't have your car. They walk the lot twice looking for it and nada. Mr snick drive home and calls HR saying the dealer didn't have the car. HR calls the dealer and basically says you f'do have the car. Here is the paperwork YOU SENT us. Mr snick gets a call back from HR saying they walked the lot again with several more people and found the car. Give them a few hrs to prep it and go back to get it.

It's chugging because of the extra load through the exhaust. Get the muffler bearings replaced as it's likely too late to just grease them up.

THe manual said it was one of 3 electronic control issues.


----------



## Lumber Jim

snickerd3 said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did the dealer prep guys forget to fill it with fluids?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THat would be funny given the headache he went through just getting the car. HR said the dealership has car they sent them the deivery slips etc. He gets there to pick up and they say we don't have your car. They walk the lot twice looking for it and nada. Mr snick drive home and calls HR saying the dealer didn't have the car. HR calls the dealer and basically says you f'do have the car. Here is the paperwork YOU SENT us. Mr snick gets a call back from HR saying they walked the lot again with several more people and found the car. Give them a few hrs to prep it and go back to get it.
> 
> It's chugging because of the extra load through the exhaust. Get the muffler bearings replaced as it's likely too late to just grease them up.
> 
> THe manual said it was one of 3 electronic control issues.
Click to expand...

Low Blinker fluid will set that code off...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

But if you're in to get your blinker fluid refilled, it's always a good idea to get the muffler bearings re-greased.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Sounds like a faulty Turbo Encabulator. Best to get that fixed right away.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

snickerd3 said:


> THe manual said it was one of 3 electronic control issues.




Most of which can be cured by adding a container of prop wash.

Oh, wait, this IS a flying Pinto, right?


----------



## snickerd3

finally got the verdict from mr snick in an email

they found the oxygen sensor wires had been chewed completely through by animal making a nest in engine compartment. They had the van parked up against the tree line at the edge of their property (which is why they couldn't find it when I first went to the dealership).


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Nice. It's always interesting when you find those types of things, especially because they're usually discovered alongside a slurry of animal parts from being in the engine compartment when it was started...


----------



## snickerd3

I really hope the dealership is going to be the one on the hook to pay for the repair. Or else it will have to come out the regional budget like all repairs to the leased vehicles


----------



## Flyer_PE

First time I've heard of that happening to a new car. I've cleared my fair share of nests (mouse/bird/bees) out of the POS cars my friends and I had in high school and college though.


----------



## snickerd3

Mr snick's company orders the car months in advance for it to sit at whatever dealer near the guys that accepts to process the paperwork...but then it has to wait until mr snicks current lease conditions are up...sometimes is it time, others it is time or milelage. So it could have been sitting there at the edge of the dealer property next to the treeline/open field for over a month in rural southern IL.

mr snick coworkers last car exchange consisted of HR calling every morning asking for the mileage so he could end up at the dealer just as or very close to the mileage requirement...the dudes new car was sitting on the dealer lot for 3 months....granted it was an urban area but still.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Great, so he winds up with a brand new shiny Barn-Find car complete with all the pests that go with it.


----------



## snickerd3

^yep. Before all this he had asked if they could send it to one of the dealerships closer to where he spends most of his time (STL or decatur) instead of literally in the middle of nowhere. They said no this time, but next time just ask before ordering. After this event I'm sure they wont forget.


----------



## Supe




----------



## blybrook PE

Supe getting ready for his next race:


----------



## Supe

NO DRIFTING!

Besides, they didn't hit anything. I rarely get so lucky.


----------



## knight1fox3

VW made a truck?! :huh:


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Yup..early eighties. Built in PA.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It had the same front end as the Cabriolet, just on a longer frame with a small truck bed. It was in line with the Subaru Brat...


----------



## Flyer_PE

I haven't seen one of those on the road in a long time. Not that there were that many ever around. I was just shocked that a FWD truck based on a VW Rabbit didn't catch on.


----------



## MA_PE

I rememeber the Rabbit based pickup. Anyone remember the VW "Thing". I guess these days it would be called the "Thang"


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> It had the same front end as the Cabriolet, just on a longer frame with a small truck bed. It was in line with the Subaru Brat...




Technically, it has front sheetmetal unique to it and the American made Rabbit GTi. The fenders, sidemarker lights, etc bring mucho dinero to the Rabbit GTi guys.

And, believe it or not, the US got long bed models only. There was a short bed available everywhere but here, and it looks a lot better.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> I rememeber the Rabbit based pickup. Anyone remember the VW "Thing". I guess these days it would be called the "Thang"




Also known as the Type 181 and Safari elsewhere. They only sold it here in 1973 and 1974.

My neighbor had one. It shamed Jeeps of the day off road.


----------



## Flyer_PE

There are a couple of restored Things I see driving around here during the Summer months. In a frontal collision, I think it turns into a bunch of really sharp edges all aimed at dismembering the occupants of the front seat.


----------



## snickerd3

The "2-yr" free maintance package that came with my car when I bought it dec 2011 was completely over after my last vist...so now I have to pay the whole bill. They really need to make the mileage part of that perk a little more visible as it was a bit misleading. it amounted to 4 oil changes and 2 tire rotations...not really 2 yrs. Even with the milage restiction... with the synthetic oil in most new hondas it last long enough that it is tire rotation and oil change every time it lights up, not every other time. so the last two times I had to pay the rotation part.

so now that the free part is over i am taking it to the honda dealer in my work city. A synthetic oil change at the jiffy lube type place in town for my car would be $70-80. Looks like it will be $39 for the oil change and $16 for the rotation.


----------



## Supe

Well, the car is now on the trailer and ready to head to E-Speed for a rear diff swap. I am PRAYING that my suspension comes in sometime this week, or no later than Monday, as this car needs to be finished and on the trailer next Wednesday night. This is going to be CLOSE.

Also, after wading through the rule book, and doing some soul-searching, I've decided that I am going to build this car as a Pike's Peak legal climber in hopes that I can drive up the mountain in a few years. This will entail a full cage, fire suppression system, new pedal box, full containment seat, and a plethora of other "add ons", but they are all doable, and would also make me eligible for any Level IV SCCA hill climbs in the area (Pike's Peak follows USAC rules, but there's enough overlap to satisfy both.)

Here are some shots before she was trailer-bound:


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Looks good, Supe.

I still think you need a set of boss aluminum slots or Appliance turbine mags on it.

Oh, and sidepipes.


----------



## Supe

I want a set of the old BBS vented wheels that were made for Audi:


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Those old gold BBS crosslace mags were all the rage on the amped up subcompacts in the 80s.

Truly wicked 1200s and Corllas from the 70s, even 2nd gen Celicas were big back then.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

this thing keeps returning to the local dealer for resale. There has to be a story.

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&amp;csDlId=&amp;csDgId=&amp;listingId=117072025&amp;listingRecNum=4&amp;criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26mkId%3D20018%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D21258%26rd%3D50%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId%26zc%3D29033%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&amp;aff=national&amp;listType=1

H3 w/5spd.


----------



## Supe

Probably one of the ones with valvetrain issues. My coworker at the last plant I worked at had a grey one. They replaced the cylinder head on it three times for valve/rocker problems before finally replacing the entire motor. Spent more time in the service bay than he did driving it.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I remember the early I-5s had head gasket issues, but thought the H3 came after all that mess was cleared up.

Haven't heard of valvetrain issues, but never was a giant fan of the Atlas engine family.


----------



## Supe

Just ordered an in-dash DVD player from Crutchfield for my truck (DVD player was as cheap as a decent head unit).

The CD player finally died, and I only use the truck for towing the racecar to the middle of nowhere, so an operating radio is a must-have. I'm leaving Thursday morning, and this thing is estimated to be due in on Tuesday, so I hope I have enough time.

I have servo motors that are supposed to show up on Monday to fix the instrument cluster (apparently defective in 03 through 06 GM trucks), so it's going to get interesting. Will start dissecting the truck this weekend so its ready to go. Going to cheat on the install and wire the DVD player to a toggle switch so I can operate it while its on to keep junior entertained when we go somewhere together.


----------



## Road Guy

I'm just getting around to putting in some new marker lights on the jeep, when I swapped front fenders the new fenders didn't have parking lights so I ordered some CJ marker lights to drill through the front of the jeep.. The metal is cheap and its a 2.5" hole..

I'm thinking to get a good hole saw and use some masking tape or something before I cut into the car? Any recommendations on best way to do this without mucking up the grill?


----------



## Supe

I think you've got the right idea. Just mask and use a good bi-metal hole saw. I like Lenox but have used others in a pinch. Go the the parts store though and buy one of the touchup paint sticks. You don't want to leave the bare metal exposed once you make the cuts or it will start to rust and bubble the paint.


----------



## snickerd3

Saw a telsa drive by the work site earlier this week....also saw several *porsches*, corvettes, BMWs, mercedes...crazy ritzy neighborhood

edited for typo error


----------



## Master slacker

I have never seen anyone driving a porch... How would one even get tags for it?


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> I have never seen anyone driving a porch... How would one even get tags for it?


Oversize permit.

Well, I lived through the weekend. Car did great at the race, shaved 25 seconds off last year's time. Got a little too overzealous on Sunday. WAAAAAY too high entry speed on the sharpest corner on the course, coupled with gravel kicked up by the guy in front of me, ended up in a 1080 spin with me missing the guard rail by a HAIR. Serious pucker factor, absolutely stunned that I didn't total the car and end up in a wheelchair or worse after that one.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

1080 degrees is a lot of spinning....


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> 1080 degrees is a lot of spinning....




It sure is. Once, twice, three times my underpants. Estimated speed on entry was approx 110 MPH.


----------



## MA_PE

glad you made it out OK, Supe. Did anyone catch it on video for you?


----------



## Supe

The only person who would have gotten it was the corner worker, and I think he was too busy diving out of the way. Sadly, my GoPro died, and only captured 1 of my 6 runs (it would turn on for a second, and then shut itself off.)


----------



## Krakosky

Was driving to meet my family for dinner on Friday. Was stopped at a red light and when I started going heard/felt a couple "pops"/"bumps". Then a light came on the dash and it became really hard to steer the car. I was about to turn right into a busy road but decided to pull over into a gas station I was passing. I was lucky enough to be able to get it in the lot and out of the way. My dad came to look at it and discovered that the serpentine belt had come off but no damage was done to the belt. Looked thru my maintenance paperwork when I got home and saw that last July Ford had replaced the belt tensioner (and obviously the belt also). Had the car towed to the dealer the next morning which luckily was only 3 miles from the gas station and I had just renewed my AAA membership. $139 to replace the idler pulley. I'm glad it was cheap and didn't happen 2 days prior when I had driven to Ohio. Being stranded on the side of I-75 would not have been fun. It was awkward enough with all of the people at the bus stop staring at me.


----------



## Supe

Good thing it took a dump quickly. Had it kept running, it likely would have overheated (without the water pump spinning) and possibly warped a head/blown a head gasket.


----------



## Supe

My five seconds of fame (albeit with name spelled incorrectly)!

http://lensfuel.com/scca-chasing-the-dragon-hillclimb/?fb_action_ids=10151503377071693&amp;fb_action_types=og.likes&amp;fb_ref=below-post&amp;fb_source=other_multiline&amp;action_object_map=%7B%2210151503377071693%22%3A394695710640883%7D&amp;action_type_map=%7B%2210151503377071693%22%3A%22og.likes%22%7D&amp;action_ref_map=%7B%2210151503377071693%22%3A%22below-post%22%7D


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Car looked good!

Loved that Lancia Integrale!


----------



## Supe

That thing was freakin' awesome. They were having problems with it early on (fuel pressure) but turned the second fuel pump on later in the day and it started working great. Loved the wheel fans on it!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I gave some thought to importing one years and years ago, but then I sobered up.

Getting parts from Italy doesn't strike me as a fun thing. Sure am glad someone does it.

I'm pretty much in love with any old Group A racer from the day. I miss the B's, but they were waaaaay over the top. Lancia's 037 is my favorite there. I have some weird thing for Lancia's and Alfas. Wouldn't own either one now, but in my younger days, sure did give it some thought.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

10 Surprising Facts About American Muscle Cars

http://www.men-know-why.com/10-surprising-facts-about-american-muscle-cars/


----------



## Rockettt

camaro more my style. even for a GM.


----------



## Supe

23:47


----------



## Flyer_PE

Not really automotive but I figure it's close enough. This little trip just got a little more expensive. I think I ran over something either on the runway or taxiway when I landed. The landing roll was perfectly normal. Plane started pulling hard left as I taxied in. Kind of pi$$es me off since that tire was fairly new.

View attachment 5741


----------



## snickerd3

That blows flyer...hope it isn't too costly


----------



## Road Guy

cant use fix a flat?


----------



## Master slacker

Nitrogen wouldn't have leaked out...


----------



## Supe

Helium would have made it lighter, thereby creating a softer landing.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

At least you weren't flying a Concorde.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Was it caused by the treadmill?


----------



## Flyer_PE

I'm in luck. The shop at the airport has the right sized tire and tube in stock. At least I won't be on the hook for expedited shipping for it. I'm just glad it wasn't flat when I set down. Much better to have it happen at 10mph than 40mph. It could have gotten really expensive really fast.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I'm not grooving on the sad imitation hockey stick stripes, but I do love me some Pistol Grip shifting.

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&amp;csDlId=&amp;csDgId=&amp;listingId=116055655&amp;listingRecNum=7&amp;criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26mkId%3D20012%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D20807%26rd%3D50%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId%26zc%3D29033%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&amp;aff=national&amp;listType=1


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Something doesn't jive, the car's description indicates that it's an automatic, but the pictures make it look like a manual...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^ ???



> Transmission: Manual


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Capt Worley PE said:


> ^ ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transmission: Manual
Click to expand...

Under the features section:


Autostick Automatic Transmission


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^ ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Transmission: Manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Under the features section:
> 
> 
> Autostick Automatic Transmission
Click to expand...



Didn't get that far down.

It is manual.

Surprise, the website dude messed up!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I don't mind the Challengers, but when stacked up against the Mustangs and Camaros I tend to agree with most car magazine comparisons in that they're a distant 3rd place. Between comfort, features, power, handling, and overall package they're no match, but it also comes down to appearance. Some people just think they look better, and there's nothing wrong with that... :ghey:

The biggest complaint from Challenger owners is the fact that they essentially need to buy the $50k+ SRT8 version just to keep up with the SS Camaro and 5.0 Mustang (both costing over $10k less). But it's not really a concern for most of them because they like the car itself and aren't worried about the muscle car wars.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Challengers aren't a Camaro/Mustang competitor. They are large GTs. They have no American competition.

The mags just put them in comparos because Challengers used to be pony cars. They aren't any more.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

If Dodge didn't want them to be compared with American pony cars, they wouldn't have named it (or styled it like) a Challenger.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> If Dodge didn't want them to be compared with American pony cars, they wouldn't have named it (or styled it like) a Challenger.




I don't think Dodge cares. They sell 40K of the things a year with no ads.

I keep hearing the upcoming Barracuda will be a true Camro/Mustang competitor.


----------



## Master slacker

I still think it's deplorable that the lightweight of the group is 3700 lbs. When they outweigh my four door grandpa mobile, it's embarrassing. (cough) Challenger! (/cough)


----------



## Road Guy

Today is a sad day I sold my Jeep :-(

She just had too much reust on her so I decided to cut bait

Maybe I'll get another one in the winter


----------



## Road Guy

So I am contemplating what to do with my 2006 Durango.. Mechanically it has been a solid vehicle . It has the 4.7 V8, sits at 165,000 miles.. It's got some external bumps and bruises but I'm not worried about that stuff..

I'm know eventually we will need another family car but for now I am thinking of red necking up the Durango. Adding cross bars and a cage/basket think with KC lights on it and just assume a new transmission is in my future at some point...but make it more of a "me" vehicle...

I hate driving a big car. I don't want to have to get a Yukon or something that size (what we really need). My oldest is 14 so I am wondering if I can get two more years if dependable life out of the Durango how many more family trips we will take once my kids start driving? I'd rather duct tape the Durango for 2 more years and either give it to my son and then put the money towards a sweet jeep JK with 36" wheels...


----------



## blybrook PE

I've seen a few tricked out durangos for off road use over the years. I think you'll be better to find a good jeep though.

Sounds like you'll be able to hold off a couple years and pass it on to your son. Sounds like it'll be a fun project vehicle for you both to work on.

Have a good weekend all! I'm off to continue working on the Scout floor...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

5 best used moder muscle cars for under $10K

http://www.ontariostreetcar.com/2013/07/02/5-best-used-modern-muscle-cars-for-under-10000/

I was surpised early versions of the 2005-2009 'stang weren't on the list.


----------



## MA_PE

The under $10k versions of those would either have "typical" mileage (read high mileage @15k for 10 to 15 years) or they would be pretty worn.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ yeah, those Rustangs were never designed to hold up that long...


----------



## blybrook PE

blybrook PE said:


> Was working on the plow truck the other night and had been noticing an increasing sag on the passenger side.
> 
> Jacked up the outer body panel under the A pillar, opened the door and found this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Expains why I'd been seeing things that had been on the floor behind me when plowing. I knew I had a small hole closer to the transmission tunnel; didn't realize it had grown exponentially... Time for some major cancer repair.
> 
> A side note, the black &amp; white lines you see are the fuel lines.




So I took the long weekend to really tear into this and find out how bad it really was. Ended up removing almost ALL of the remaining floor, as only a portion of the transmission tunnel remained when I finished cutting. Apparently the previous owner had already done the repair to the drivers side and forgot to get to the passenger side, or didn't care. In any case, it's fixed now.

Here's what it looked like at the end of the day on Thursday:






And here's the final product:






Neither the girlfriend or I wanted to deal with being able to reach down and grab the rear driveshaft; even if it was kinda fun to watch spinning while tooling around the property. Now the floor is solid enough to reintroduce a passenger seat as the door now works properly! I have yet to determine if I'll reconnect the hydraulics to run the rear winch or not. Probably will, but with all the smoke from the nearby wildfire, I wanted to limit my outdoor activities some. Working outside while it is raining ash isn't all that fun.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Maybe I'll get another one in the winter


Yeah, keep telling yourself that. I've been saying it for about 6 years now.

I believe my Malibu is dying a slow death. It seems more and more small things are going kaput, i.e. gas gauge doesn't work anymore, one of the back windows stopped working, etc. I'm thinking it might be time to seriously look into replacing it before all those little things turn in to one big mechanical issue.

We originally got it from my FIL and, long story short, we hold the title but the car is in my wife's name. If I want to trade it in, does she need to be there to sign it over? A few years ago before I deployed, we both got powers of attorney so can I trade it in with that?

Whether I trade it in remains to be seen. I looked at an '09 Dodge truck while I was off on Friday that was pretty nice. The online evaluators show my car being worth ~$3,500 in rough shape, but if they want to dick around then I might just keep it to have something to tool around in until it dies or put it on CL and see what happens. I've seen similar cars listed for $6-7,000 so even if they are in better shape, maybe I could sell it for $4-5,000 to someone looking for a reliable first car for their kid.


----------



## snickerd3

she wouldn't have to be there, she would just have to sign the title at some point. My dad was on the title my first post college car. We had him sign the title while we were up north visiting them which was a couple months before we started looking at new cars.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

This is kinda cool.

1987 Ford Ranger Step-side - $1700 (Neeses, SC)




1987 Ford Ranger Step-side for sale. 4 cylinder straight drive; fiberglass back body; runs great. Call 803-837-1549 for more information - no calls after 8:00pm please.
Location: Neeses, SC
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
Posting ID: 3938472784

Posted: 2013-07-15, 9:25PM EDT

email to a friend


----------



## Road Guy

Can't really go wrong with a ranger...

I'd drive that truck(if AC worked)


----------



## MA_PE

that is pretty neat. You don't see many Ranger stepsides.


----------



## blybrook PE

I think it'd be even better if it was a diesel instead of the gasser!

Those little turbo diesels they had for a couple of years were awesome.


----------



## knight1fox3

Looking to buy a new SUV. So far the top of list is Acura MDX, Ford Explorer, and Ford Edge. Any suggestions/comments/funny stuff? Chrysler/Dodge anything is out of the question. LOL


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Used Lincoln Mark X or first gen caddy SRX.

All crossovers, by the way, not SUVs.


----------



## Master slacker

The Canyonero


----------



## snickerd3

Ok they totally lowered the clarence on the back hatch in the 2013 toyota siennas. This weekend was the first time since mr snick got his new car that I was taking things out the rear hatch. With the hatch up in his last sienna i could walk underneath without bending...not so much with the new one.


----------



## Ble_PE

^And you have a bump on your head to prove it, right?


----------



## snickerd3

Ble_PE said:


> ^And you have a bump on your head to prove it, right?


you betcha!!


----------



## Supe

New front splitter is done, car is ready to go this weekend, but I'm not. It's just so much hassle/work/preparation for the next race when I've got so much going on. If the weather report looks iffy, I may just call it a year.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Hard to believe that cooling air opening is large enough...


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> ^Hard to believe that cooling air opening is large enough...




Over 1/3 the surface area of the HX, and ducted/sealed straight to it. Last year, without the air dam/ductwork, the motor was consistently in the 220° range. This past June, it never saw the other side of 185° after making a run at 7200 RPM. At idle, it never crept over 155°.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^ Looks can be deceiving, then.


----------



## Supe

I was very worried that it would be too small, but some other folks reassured me it'd be fine. I guess when you consider the size of the opening that the NASCAR boys run, it seems more feasible.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's all about clean air...


----------



## Supe

Thankfully the only things I'm drafting are rocks and the occasional small woodland creature.


----------



## knight1fox3

Capt Worley PE said:


> ^Used Lincoln Mark X or first gen caddy SRX.


The SRXs look pretty sharp. Engine seems pretty beefy too. I've been eying up this one: *http://tinyurl.com/myn2ly2*


----------



## Supe

That's a lot of car for $31k.


----------



## Master slacker

I thought it was cool until I saw "AWD". We don't need that down here, but from what I gather, it just adds weight and reduces the already limited room to access anything.

Side saddle V6 with a turbo and AWD. Don't plan on doing anything yourself.


----------



## MA_PE

50k in a relatively short time. Someone got their use out of it


----------



## snickerd3

MA_PE said:


> 50k in a relatively short time. Someone got their use out of it


i can't see the link...how long was a short time? I put 50K miles on in about 2 yrs.


----------



## Supe

That's still only 17k/yr or so, with 12k being the norm. Probably mostly highway miles. Sure tough to put that many on in stop and go traffic.


----------



## knight1fox3

Agreed on the mileage.



Master slacker said:


> I thought it was cool until I saw "AWD". We don't need that down here, but from what I gather, it just adds weight and reduces the already limited room to access anything.
> 
> Side saddle V6 with a turbo and AWD. Don't plan on doing anything yourself.


Ya I figured as much. But being in WI, the AWD is nice during the winter months. The only vehicle I care to work on myself is the one in my avatar.


----------



## MA_PE

snickerd3 said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 50k in a relatively short time. Someone got their use out of it
> 
> 
> 
> i can't see the link...how long was a short time? I put 50K miles on in about 2 yrs.
Click to expand...

it's a 2011. Sorry 25k / year is a lot of miles to me. My '99 has 111k.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 50k in a relatively short time. Someone got their use out of it
> 
> 
> 
> i can't see the link...how long was a short time? I put 50K miles on in about 2 yrs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> it's a 2011. Sorry 25k / year is a lot of miles to me. My '99 has 111k.
Click to expand...

When I got my Maxx, it was just over a year old and had 23K on it. Since then, I've put less than 10K a year on it. It has just shy of 65K now, i believe.


----------



## Master slacker

MA_PE said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 50k in a relatively short time. Someone got their use out of it
> 
> 
> 
> i can't see the link...how long was a short time? I put 50K miles on in about 2 yrs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> it's a 2011. Sorry 25k / year is a lot of miles to me. My '99 has 111k.
Click to expand...



My '92 has 106k and my '96 has 79k.


----------



## envirotex

^How do you do that? I have a 2007 that I bought in 2009 with 25K on it. Now it has 110K. It's our primary family vehicle...i.e. when all get in the car to go somewhere, that's the car we take, so I was thinking that 21-22K per year was pretty good.

I did the lease thing once, and we ended up way over on mileage. I would never do that again.


----------



## mudpuppy

My 2006 has 50k on it. My 1997 had 80k on it. It helps living 4 miles from work.


----------



## Flyer_PE

1991 MR2 - 102k

1999 GMC - 112k

2004 Jeep - 98k

The one that gets the most miles in any given year these days is the Jeep at around 10k. When the weather won't allow me to fly to a client site, the GMC accumulates miles in 800-mile blocks.


----------



## MA_PE

so I'm not only one that thinks the subject car has high miles.


----------



## Master slacker

envirotex said:


> ^How do you do that? I have a 2007 that I bought in 2009 with 25K on it. Now it has 110K. It's our primary family vehicle...i.e. when all get in the car to go somewhere, that's the car we take, so I was thinking that 21-22K per year was pretty good.




I inherited the '92 ("Morton") from my Granny when she passed. She literally drove it about one mile per week for the few years she could drive. When I got it in 2007, it had about 50k miles on it.

The '96 is my fun car (since the acquisition of Morton). Only drive it from time to time. I'm the second owner and have put 61k on it in 10 years.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> so I'm not only one that thinks the subject car has high miles.




It wouldn't scare me away.


----------



## MA_PE

Master slacker said:


> I inherited the '92 ("Morton") from my Granny when she passed.


I give....what's a Morton?


----------



## MA_PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> so I'm not only one that thinks the subject car has high miles.
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't scare me away.
Click to expand...

I would keep looking unless it was a smokin' price and I could get an extended warranty.


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> so I'm not only one that thinks the subject car has high miles.
> 
> 
> 
> It wouldn't scare me away.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would keep looking unless it was a smokin' price and I could get an extended warranty.
Click to expand...

I agree the mileage is a bit higher than average. Although, we generally look to purchase used vehicles with 30-50k miles on them. Because we won't be putting nearly the same amount of annual mileage on them. It's certainly not the best deal out there but I do like the look of the vehicle. And I bet with that turbo, it's no slouch on getting up to speed.


----------



## Master slacker

MA_PE said:


> Master slacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> I inherited the '92 ("Morton") from my Granny when she passed.
> 
> 
> 
> I give....what's a Morton?
Click to expand...

Morton is the car's name. Granny lived on Morton St. and the name kind of fits the car. It's a '92 Mercury Tracer... various shades of red... clear coat on the passenger side D-pillar... driver's side headlight held on by one screw and three red zip-ties.

This thing takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'. I've rusted out a freeze plug and run the engine dry of coolant for no less than 50 miles (no internal damage). Replaced the head gasket, freeze plug, fuel pump, water pump, thermostat, timing belt (twice :madgo: ), and headlight. For what it is, it's a reliable A-to-B, 33 MPG car.


----------



## MA_PE

^"reliable" being the key word. Go Morton go!


----------



## Exception Collection

'04 Kia, has 113k miles on it (13k in the last 10 months, most of which is "local" driving). It runs reasonably well, about 33 mpg, and I fit really well in it despite being 6'3 in a compact.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

You can't beat those Mazda 323 Mercury Tracers.


----------



## Master slacker

^ BRRRRRMP! All Furd in this car. It's got the stump-pulling 1.9L


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^B6DET. You need one.

They also fit in Festivas.....


----------



## Master slacker

There are a couple of 1.8's in the local Pull-a-part, but the work needed to properly integrate it into Morton is not worth my time. Besides, I have grander plans if / when red thunder ever gives up the ghost.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^It really amounts to wiring issues, and most of that has been figured out for Festivas. Probably not for Ferd engined Tracers, though.


----------



## Master slacker

More than I'm willing to spend in dollars and four-letter words.

http://www.feoa.net/threads/escort-lx-to-bp-swap.75922/


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I'd just find a GT.


----------



## Master slacker

Better yet, get an EJ20/22/25 and transmission, slap it in the back of a VW and call it a day. Cheaper and more fun.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Not a Subie fan.


----------



## mudpuppy

Capt Worley PE said:


> Not a Boobie fan.




???? :huh:


----------



## Master slacker

I prefer sleepers


----------



## Capt Worley PE

mudpuppy said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not a Boobie fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ???? :huh:
Click to expand...



GD smartphone!!!

Edit: RG hack my account?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> I prefer sleepers




That much weight in the back of one of those arse-engine nazi wagons must make for some...ummm..interesting handling.

I did my time in the air-cooled bug world. Not much desire to go back, although I do appreciate the simple design and frugal nature of the little beasties. I think I subscribed to DB&amp;HVW for most of the eighties.

I would not mind having a dune buggy, though. Meyers Manx clone.


----------



## jeb6294

If you girls are done talking about your little econo-boxes. The Malibu is gone...long live the Hemi.


----------



## MA_PE

Nice. good luck with it.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

2wd?

Nice truck.


----------



## jeb6294

Dexman PE said:


> 2wd?
> 
> Nice truck.


Absolutely not!

It's not like I plan on taking the thing offroading or that we get horrific winters, but we do have our moments so it's 4wd for me.


----------



## Master slacker

jeb6294 said:


> If you girls are done talking about your little econo-boxes. The Malibu is gone...long live the Hemi.


That's not a "Hemi". That's a semi-Hemi, ma'am.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

jeb6294 said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2wd?
> 
> Nice truck.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely not!
> It's not like I plan on taking the thing offroading or that we get horrific winters, but we do have our moments so it's 4wd for me.
Click to expand...

It just looked like it sat low (like a 2wd). May just be the camera angle...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> jeb6294 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you girls are done talking about your little econo-boxes. The Malibu is gone...long live the Hemi.
> 
> 
> 
> That's not a "Hemi". That's a semi-Hemi, ma'am.
Click to expand...

Twisted Wedge. Porcupine headed thing.


----------



## Supe

Well, had some issues this weekend.

Fuel pressure regulator took a dump, so motor wouldn't spin over 6200 RPM - just sounded like it was hitting the rev limiter.

On run #2, the new splitter up front was creating so much downforce, I was bottoming out in several places along the course. Sadly, on turn 17, I hit an undulation in the pavement, the car went airborn, and darted left into the grass/wall. I probably could have escaped with minimal damage, had I not dissected a 6"-8" wide branch that was laying across there. I hit it, drove to the finish line, and when I got out to look, quite a bit of carnage had ensued. Front frame horns were bent, carriage bolts had ripped through, eyebolt heads were snapped off, splitter mounts were twisted like pretzels, and the splitter/air dam combo were shifted about a foot to the right.

Limped it down the hill, removed all the damaged stuff, put just the airdam back on (hurray for the elastic properties of ABS plastic!), removed the bulk of the grass/dirt/newly formed wood mulch, and finished the weekend on Sunday with my two best times, with the car slipping and sliding everywhere. My final run hit my goal of the 12X.XXX mark, with a 128.5XX, and was a white knuckled, adrenaline filled, completely terrifying banzai run. I think I ended up 6th or 7th fastest overall on the day, which is pretty good considering how little time I've been doing this, and with a wounded car to boot.


----------



## MA_PE

nice showing, especially with all the obstacles. Any videos available?


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> nice showing, especially with all the obstacles. Any videos available?




Will hopefully have some tonight. I had a couple of my early runs on GoPro (I hope), and someone else may have some footage. Usually trickles in throughout the week. I think I got the crash on video, too.


----------



## Supe

DID get the offroad excursion on video, will post a link tonight after I edit down the length. Sadly, didn't get any of my really good runs. Was trying to hot lap the car to get the tire temps up, and didn't even think about the camera.


----------



## knight1fox3

Opinions on Carfax reports? Worth it? Scam?

Looking at a http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&amp;csDlId=&amp;csDgId=&amp;listingId=111814880&amp;listingRecNum=3&amp;criteria=sf1Dir%3DASC%26drvTrnId%3D27102%26alMdId%3D21787%26alMdId%3D21422%26mkId%3D20070%26mkId%3D20001%26mlgMx%3D60000%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D21787'&gt;2010 Acura MDX (34k miles) that is listed at $4765 below KBB retail value. The "lure you in" part of the website claims there are 14 records. Which could be just routine maintenance. I am debating on paying to see what they are. $40 for 1 report or $50 for 5. :BS:


----------



## Master slacker

Well, my Tracer has mis-matched color panels, the passenger side door doesn't open all the way, and the trunk lid was obviously replaced since the holes for a spoiler are evident and the Bondo is showing. Thus, I believe, it happened to be in at least one accident. HOWEVER, the CarFax was clean and clear! :rtft: :Locolaugh:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

If you walk into the dealership, they will give you the report for free...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> Well, my Tracer has mis-matched color panels, the passenger side door doesn't open all the way, and the trunk lid was obviously replaced since the holes for a spoiler are evident and the Bondo is showing. Thus, I believe, it happened to be in at least one accident. HOWEVER, the CarFax was clean and clear! :rtft: :Locolaugh:




My Ranger was totaled in 2002, but Carfax said in 2010 or so that is was alive and well in FL with 138K miles and no reported issues,


----------



## MA_PE

Carfax is only as good as the databases gthat it can access for data. MS, I would also assume that the Tracer was not repaired by a reputable shop using insurance money. CW: again I assume that the Ranger did not have a clear title in SC as it would have required a salvage title. The newer the car the more likely you will get a better (read more thorough) report. The option is to believe the person selling you the car. Which is more reliable?



> If you walk into the dealership, they will give you the report for free...



not necessarily, but more dealerships seem to advertise this service. (see previous comment about believeing the guy selling you the car)


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> CW: again I assume that the Ranger did not have a clear title in SC as it would have required a salvage title.




I suspect what happened is they totaled it for frame damage (this much I know to be true), but FL didn't recognize SC salvage titles at the time.

Or maybe the frame wasn't damaged like they thought. The right front wheel was popped off in the accident and it was resting on the wheel on the salvage lot, flexing the frame. Both airbags went off, soo that was some coinage, too.


----------



## jeb6294

Dexman PE said:


> It just looked like it sat low (like a 2wd). May just be the camera angle...


That's probably part of it...I took the picture while standing on the front porch. I think there's something about the black wheels blending in with the black tires that make it seem a little lower than it actually is too because the pictures on the dealer's website gave that impression too. In reality, I am 6'2" and I have to hop in or use the steps.

When I test drove it there was a nasty squeal coming from the belt or idler pulley. Salesguy says they'll take care of it. As were working on the deal I ask about spare key (it uses one of those goofy Dodge fob things with no actual "key" sticking out of it) and floor mats. No problem, when they take it back to clean it up they'll grab all that. By the time we were done with paperwork it was almost 9:00. Guess what...still squealing, no key and no floor mats. With two tired hungry kids I just went home and sent a message the next day. I wasn't really expecting much, and honestly I could probably take care of everything for $100-150 or so. I was pleasantly surprised to get a call from the GM who offered to swap him for his demo tomorrow night so he can take my truck in Friday morning to fix everything. If he follows through on everything I will be very impressed. Nowadays it seems like they don't give a rat's @ss once you sign on the dotted line.

Hmmm, I wonder what the GM of a Dodge dealership would drive?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

jeb6294 said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> It just looked like it sat low (like a 2wd). May just be the camera angle...
> 
> 
> 
> That's probably part of it...I took the picture while standing on the front porch. I think there's something about the black wheels blending in with the black tires that make it seem a little lower than it actually is too because the pictures on the dealer's website gave that impression too. In reality, I am 6'2" and I have to hop in or use the steps.
> 
> When I test drove it there was a nasty squeal coming from the belt or idler pulley. Salesguy says they'll take care of it. As were working on the deal I ask about spare key (it uses one of those goofy Dodge fob things with no actual "key" sticking out of it) and floor mats. No problem, when they take it back to clean it up they'll grab all that. By the time we were done with paperwork it was almost 9:00. Guess what...still squealing, no key and no floor mats. With two tired hungry kids I just went home and sent a message the next day. I wasn't really expecting much, and honestly I could probably take care of everything for $100-150 or so. I was pleasantly surprised to get a call from the GM who offered to swap him for his demo tomorrow night so he can take my truck in Friday morning to fix everything. If he follows through on everything I will be very impressed. Nowadays it seems like they don't give a rat's @ss once you sign on the dotted line.
> 
> Hmmm, I wonder what the GM of a Dodge dealership would drive?
Click to expand...

My wheels do the same thing. I've had several people ask which lowering springs I have, and I just say the car is stock.

The GM of a dealership typically drives a fully-loaded version of whatever they carry on the lot. When I worked at a dealership, the management team would either be in a Durango or a 1500.


----------



## jeb6294

Ooooh, or maybe...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ The Chargers were just coming out at the time when I quit working at the dealership, so the Challengers were still a twinkle in Dodge's eye...

And typically, they don't drive anything that they can't sell as a demo (3-5k miles) since the dealership still owns the vehicle.


----------



## mudpuppy

Yeah my dad was a car salesman for many years and he got a lot of different demos. Usually middle-of-the-road boring sedans, but he did get to drive a Fiero for a while. Fortunately it didn't catch fire.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

jeb6294 said:


> Hmmm, I wonder what the GM of a Dodge dealership would drive?




Caliber SXT.


----------



## Supe

A short video of my seat sucker moment. Keep in mind, entry speed into this turn is roughly 80 mph or so (GoPros tend to make things look deceptively slow with the wide angle).

http://s144.photobucket.com/user/Supermatch1813/media/Turn17Oops_zps87aa8fa7.mp4.html


----------



## MA_PE

neat video. thanks for sharing. Sounds great, except for that stuff when you hit the brush.


----------



## Supe

And here are some photos from the weekend from this guy Kyle, aka. Roadcone Photo. He takes some killer shots, had my favorite from last event as well. Quite a few shots of my car in there. When he said it was his favorite, he must not have been kidding! Made me happy to see so many people compliment on how the car was built as far as the detail work goes. The other nice compliment was after I wrecked, a guy made his run, and by the time he got back down, I already had it fixed. "How the f*ck do you already have a new nose on that thing?!"

http://roadconephoto.smugmug.com/Cars/Chasing-the-Dragon-V/31030178_GXWMnq#!i=2684049399&amp;k=47HwS5S


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I liked that 1stGen Celica.

I'm really surprised you don't see more 2Gen Celica Supras at those things. Makes we wonder if the IRS is wonky for all out racing.


----------



## Supe

No, they're just becoming harder to come by. Most of the people who pick them up that aren't total rust buckets are drifter kids.

A lot of the guys who run TT/Club Racing are the ones that show up to the hillclimbs, so they tend to stick to the cars that are at the front of their classes - i.e. 8 billion Miatas who run the various Street Prepared/spec classes. Once you start screwing with forced induction/engine swaps/etc., you fall out of the national classes and into specialty regional classes like the one I run in (Street Unlimited.)


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> No, they're just becoming harder to come by. Most of the people who pick them up that aren't total rust buckets are drifter kids.




I peruse http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?51-Cars-For-Sale and wish.

The Pacific Northwest seems to be the locus of fairly stock cars.


----------



## Master slacker

I love the Formula Vee!


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> I love the Formula Vee!




Guy running it is in his mid 80's! Usually comes with his wife. He can run the whole course without lifting off the gas.


----------



## Master slacker

If I had the money... Formula Vee (Formula First... whatever) and 24 hrs of Lemons.


----------



## MA_PE

Master slacker said:


> If I had the money... Formula Vee (Formula First... whatever) and 24 hrs of Lemons.


Formula Un?


----------



## Supe

Lemons is awesome, but I'd rather built a mega-dollar car for One Lap first.


----------



## mudpuppy

My boss' son did the 24 hours of Lemons this year. Sounded like they had fun, though they blew the clutch twice.


----------



## Master slacker

i got the car, but no money for anything else


----------



## envirotex

Update on the FJ60.

So, as it turns out...The refurbished brake booster that we got was bad. Replaced it with a new (refurbished) one and now it stops on a dime. Got an inspection today!


----------



## Flyer_PE

Looks like my little car ('91 MR2) has just earned itself a spot under the right wing of the airplane until further notice. While sitting at a red light yesterday, I look in the mirror and I could actually see blue smoke rising through the engine cover vents. It's had a couple of small oil leaks for a while but this one put it into mosquito-killer territory.

Now I get to figure out just what I want to do with the drive train on the little beast. I wonder how far I can up the power without ending up with one of those gawd-awful exhaust systems that sounds like a very large pi$$ed-off bumble bee.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^The turbo will mellow it out quite a bit. I know more than a few turbo dodges that ran 3" exhausts with no muffler and it was just a burble from the exhaust pipes, not the phart can sound.


----------



## Flyer_PE

The bigger annoyance is that the spare car just went off-line. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a new truck. I've been nursing Ol' Blue along for a while on the theory that I had the car as a backup vehicle. Time to get something that has suffered something less than 14 years worth of Chicago road salt.


----------



## Master slacker

4A-GZE

/thread


----------



## Supe

LSX or SBC


----------



## Flyer_PE

^That brings up the question of how much the drive train can handle.


----------



## Supe

LSX + T101 + 9 inch Ford diff


----------



## Flyer_PE

Kinda hard to arrange with the engine behind the seats.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I was wondering how all that could fit in an Mister Deuce myself.


----------



## Supe

Flyer_PE said:


> Kinda hard to arrange with the engine behind the seats.






Geeze, fine. LSX + Porsche transaxle.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^You know he's got a sidewinder engine, right.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Well, I just started to ball rolling. I now have two Ford dealers looking to sell me a pickup truck. I'm still shying away from the turbo-V6 in favor of the 5.0L V8. I'm still not comfy with the idea of running a turbo in this capacity for the number of years I will probably run this truck.


----------



## Master slacker

Assume a turbo to be good for 100k miles. If the price were the same, I'd get the turbo, hands down.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I think they want an extra $1500 for the V6. I'm a big fan of fewer moving parts.


----------



## Road Guy

Alright experienced car people:

In about to take my 2006 Dodge Durango v8 , 1500 miles to Denver in 2 weeks..

I have maintained it very well, plugs, oil changes, etc.. The basic stuff..

I'm gonna get 2 new tires for the trip and an oil change but anything else I should think about checking for a car with 160,000 miles on it?

Battery is 3 years old, may go ahead and replace.. Radiator is new. Ill check all the fluids and such?????

We're gonna have the whole family, dog, etc.. So we went ahead an got the AAA account.. Plus several of you folks live along the way


----------



## Master slacker

Just an option, you could just ship your Durango (~$700 and a week), rent a minivan, and have a little more piece of mind. :dunno: 

Ever changed the diff fluid?


----------



## Road Guy

We thought about shipping it but flying with 5 people + dog is pretty pricey. I think the long distance one way rental cars are pretty I high as well, they know your trying to budget versus airfare...

I think I have changed that, I am more worried about something like a water pump going or some small part....


----------



## Supe

Kimi Raikkonen is reportedly signing with Ferrari this afternoon. I will be f'ing PUMPED for next year's F1 season if this is in fact the case.


----------



## envirotex

Got your tickets for November yet? I think we're gonna go for a day. $49 seems like an OK deal. Even the cheap seats have a pretty good view.


----------



## Supe

I doubt I'll be able to make it, though I REALLY wish I could. Between work schedule and a tentative short trip to FL in November, I don't think I can fit it in. The hotel costs are absolutely outrageous, too.


----------



## Supe

Whoooo! It's official! http://formula1.ferrari.com/


----------



## Flyer_PE

Pulled the trigger yesterday: 2013 F150 FX4 with 5.0L V8 and a 589 page owner's manual.

I got 14 years out of my last truck. Hopefully, I'll get 10+ years out of this one too.


----------



## MA_PE

she's a beaut. good luck with it Flyer.


----------



## Road Guy

No rally sort pack Clark?

J/ k. I really like the F150's.. If I didn't have 3 kids I would own one...


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> No rally sort pack Clark?
> 
> J/ k. I really like the F150's.. If I didn't have 3 kids I would own one...


Fitting though. It is the Flyer Family Truckster


----------



## knight1fox3

^ LOL! Alright, pack it up! It's off to Wally World!!!!


----------



## Master slacker

Well, the wife's Rav4 threw a new, unseen code. We're accustomed to the p0420 and p0430. Those come on occasionally but I just clear it. Been doing that for 8 years no problem. Now we get a p1155 and every time I clear it, the code gets thrown again. Dammit. How much money am I out now?

Well, $112 later i have a replacement sensor on order. Ugh... Happy Friday the 13th.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ but what do you do when it says "PC Load Letter"?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^


----------



## knight1fox3

Picked this up over the weekend:






Pretty stoked about it. 2011 Infiniti FX-35. Thing has a TON of awesome features. My favorite being the seat moving back and the steering wheel moving in when you put it in park and turn it off to get out. LOL


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Nice!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ My wife and I refer to those as the Darkwing Duck cars. They're cool as hell, though.


----------



## MA_PE

I believe that's the one we affectionately referred to as "the shoe"

Good luck with it kf. Keep the shiny side up.


----------



## knight1fox3

$64k base for a Jeep? :huh:


----------



## Master slacker

Is it a "base" SRT?


----------



## knight1fox3

> New for the 2014 Grand Cherokee SRT® is an eight-speed transmission that delivers power from the 6.4-liter HEMI® engine via a fully electronic automatic mode or through redesigned steering-wheel paddle controls. The new package delivers improved 0-60 mph acceleration with quicker shift speeds. Eco Mode and Fuel Saver Technology complete the equation for both power and efficiency.


And 470HP.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

A Jeep shouldn't be rocking that much HP unless it's on 40" rock-crawling tires and a 10" lift kit...


----------



## Road Guy

^-- and most people wouldnt really want to get a $64K cherokee muddy either...

Im leaning towards (next year) getting a used 4WD Toyota Seqoyuia or a used 4WD Durngo for family trips around my new western state..

I have a durango now but its 2WD, have to say its on 06 with 178,000 miles and very little trouble.. its the smaller V8.

I like the interior size of the Seqoyia (bigger) for my 3 growing teenagers?

I dont want to get somethign as big as a tahoe or suburban or expedition, can any of you think of another decent sized SUV with 3 rows of seats?


----------



## snickerd3

the honda pilot 3rd row seating 4 wd v6


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Mrs Dex loves her Jeep Commander. They've been discontinued, so you'd only be able to buy one used.


----------



## Road Guy

I need to test drive a pilot I just cant see if it would be big enough for teenagers?

I like the jeep commander also, I need to pile all my kids in yours and see if they fit 

Since I will most likely be buying a new house next year I will defin be buying used.. Does the Commander come in a V8?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I'd go with a Suburbayukahoe of some sort if I was after a full size SUV. They are far and above anything else offered in that segment.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> I need to test drive a pilot I just cant see if it would be big enough for teenagers?
> 
> I like the jeep commander also, I need to pile all my kids in yours and see if they fit
> 
> Since I will most likely be buying a new house next year I will defin be buying used.. Does the Commander come in a V8?


Our Commander has a V6, but they definitely have an available Hemi V8.

The V6 has enough power for what we do, including the ablility to pull a trailer.

Only real issue is that if you need a "full size" to rent a trailer (read: Home Depot tool rentals), the Commander won't work regardless of the engine, whereas the Tahoe or Suburban would.


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> I like the interior size of the Seqoyia (bigger) for my 3 growing teenagers?
> 
> I dont want to get somethign as big as a tahoe or suburban or expedition, can any of you think of another decent sized SUV with 3 rows of seats?




Have you looked at a Kia Sorento? Yeah yeah yeah... It's Korean. ldman:  But it does look good and has damn good warranty even though you may not even need it. Unless anything else takes my fancy, when the wife's Rav is driven into its grave, we'll get a used one.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Isn't the Sorento built in AL?


----------



## Master slacker

Dunno. I dropped my "Big Three only" frame of mind years ago and no longer care about the company's country of origin and no longer follow where each car is made.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I've kinda been diggin' looking at Type 3s for sale at The Samba. I always thought the fastbacks were cool and thye don't seem as pricey as the Type 1s, although I'd bet prices for parts ar sky high.


----------



## Master slacker

Love the Type 3's. Of course I enjoy the 1's and 2's as well. The 3's should share drivetrain parts with the Type 1's and Ghias so it shouldn't be all that bad. Interior may be different.


----------



## MA_PE

you guys are talking in code. What's a Type 3?


----------



## Supe

Vee Dub, yah?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Ja, Vee Dub.

Ms, beyond the long block, all else is different on the engine. Not sure about tranny differences, but I seem to recall the interior and body stuff on the 3s being much more expensive in the 80s.

Of course, a lot more Type 1s were on the road back then too, so....


----------



## Master slacker

I'd bet that at least the 3's had the same transaxle as 1's. Busses had the "beefier" and taller geared 6 and 9 ribs. Just go the route I plan on going (when I have money  ) and get a Subaru drivetrain with a reversed R&amp;P. I'm not too much of a purist, though.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> I'd bet that at least the 3's had the same transaxle as 1's.




I seem to recall that wasn't the case. I'm going from memories that are 25-30 years old, though.


----------



## Road Guy

Well I didn’t plan to do this so soon but last weekend I bought a used Tahoe, 4WD, big V8..

Now I just need a small lift so I can fit some 33’s on it…

I had been driving a tahoe for some of the flood work here and really liked it, it was a used sheriff’s vehicle and I found it very roomy and handled some off road stuff pretty good (not a jeep or anything)

Only thing I hate is that I put new tires on my Durango for my drive to Colorado but it was nearing 180,000 miles and was in pretty horrible external condition, but at least I got a few grand for it (quick sale to some illegals on C-list). Probably wouldn’t have gotten as much with the bald tires that had been on it before. Tahoes wheels are bigger so the Durango tires wouldn’t fit anyway (I thought of that).

This is my first chevy vehicle…so far for a quick yesterday the extra room will be great, and the 4WD should help on some of the dirt roads we want to travel to..

Its also not brand new so if it gets a nick or bump its not the end of the world..


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Need another road racer, Supe? Looks like a good LSx swap candidate.

1984 Corvette 99k - $1500 (Hickory)










1984 Corvette needs some work. Will crank but not getting fuel. Has almost new tires all around the car. Needs new top. Inside is a little rough. $1500 OBO. NO TRADES. call or text 828-261-60 three seven


----------



## Master slacker

Personally, I would love to have a Gen 4 Corvette (preferred '92+) for cheap and swap in a 6.0 or 6.2 on the cheap. My ONLY hesitation for not doing so (besides money) is that I would find it hard to get one with the fiberglass body in good condition. "Proper" FG repairs on the Corvette are not inexpensive and, thus, most are cheap. But HFS that would be fun!


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I guess I have a different interpretation of 'like new.'

http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4084813949.html


----------



## Supe

Shot that over to my boss, Cap'n. He's the one that races a C4.


----------



## engineergurl

If the master cylinder is shot... wouldn't the back brakes be impacted too? If only the front brakes seem to be not being used any other potential suggestions for what could be wrong?

Is the master cylinder easy enough two mechanically inclined people could tackle?

This is on the grand cheerokee


----------



## blybrook PE

^ Not necessarily. Since the mid 70's all master cylinders have been a dual reservoir type on passenger automobiles to prevent catastrophic failure. If it is a single reservoir and you lose all the fluid, there won’t be any braking capacity. Now, most look like they are single reservoir since they have a single cap, but that thing has an internal wall to keep enough fluid to run half the brakes (usually). It is also typically known that the front brakes do over 60% of the vehicle braking, so when they start to go, its best to check out the whole system.

First thing to do is to pop the hood and check the fluid level to see if one side is lower than the other. If it is, refill and check for leaks with someone pumping the brakes while another is underneath. A substantial leak will be easy to spot, slow leaks are a pain in the arse to find; or you won’t find it until you get a blowout and all the fluid is on the road with you not stopping (not fun).

Since you are in salt country, you could have a rusted line that has a small leak causing the loss of braking capacity; or one of the rubber lines between the distribution block and the caliber has dry rotted and needs replacement. Best check is when the underside of the vehicle is relatively dry; look for wet spots or areas on the brake lines (brake fluid has a distinct smell, so try to smell the wet area if you can and compare to the smell in the brake reservoir). Replace any lines if found faulty and bleed the entire system.

Front brake caliper seals have been known to go bad, so it could be that and you may not immediately see the leak. To check for this, you’ll need to pull the wheels and the calipers to check for wet spots on the seal or along the rotor. It’s a good time to check the pads while yer in there and replace if necessary.

Two mechanically inclined people can easily change out a master cylinder in a couple hours as well as check the entire brake system. Just remember to bench bleed the master before installation (it will save you headaches later!).

Good luck.


----------



## engineergurl

Thanks! What the mechanic was saying didn't make sense... especially not to the tune of $1000. I had to replace some fluid back in June ( my e-brake light came on and wouldn't go off) but since then there has only been about 500 miles driven n on it since my husband went tdy for a while and the thing spent a lot of time parked at the airport. I drove it last week while the car was getting an oil change and noticed the brakes were 'spongier' then I was used to (hubby didn't notice cause they have always felt that way to him). He actually only took it in because he got pulled over for a brake light being out and figured to have everything checked.

I'll try you suggestions about the leaks this weekend since it isn't supposed to rain, but I am guessing there was a leak and a line has probably dry rotted since it hasn't been driven much this past year while I wasn't working (maybe 800 to1500 miles since Aug of 2012) and it sits for extended time frames


----------



## Supe

If you press the brake pedal down and hold it, does it start sinking to the floor, or does it stay where it is?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

blybrook PE said:


> ^ Not necessarily. *Since the mid 70's* all master cylinders have been a dual reservoir type on passenger automobiles to prevent catastrophic failure.




Dual circuit master cylinders were required, along with a host of other safety changes, in 1968.

As much as I disparage Ralph Nader, this was one of the very good things resulting from him shining a light on auto safety.


----------



## mudpuppy

blybrook PE said:


> A substantial leak will be easy to spot, slow leaks are a pain in the arse to find; or you won’t find it until you get a blowout and all the fluid is on the road with you not stopping (not fun).




This happened to me twice on the Bronco. The first time it was the front brakes and I didn't realize one of the rear wheel cylinders was also frozen so I had one-wheel braking


----------



## engineergurl

Supe said:


> If you press the brake pedal down and hold it, does it start sinking to the floor, or does it stay where it is?




I didn't notice it sinking further


----------



## Supe

If its not leaking down further, it may just need to be re-bled from air in the lines. If the car has ABS, sometimes the ABS unit needs to be cycled during bleeding to get all the air out. Most dealerships do this using scanner/program through the OBD port.


----------



## blybrook PE

With the additional information, I'm gonna suggest adding in a system bleed to be safe. Rebleeding can be done solo if you have a mighty vac hand pump. Those things are great!

Just remember to start at the rear passenger wheel and work way closer to the master with the front driver being the last wheel to get bled.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Anyone want a B-model Mack? It'd make a great commuter around town!









http://columbia.craigslist.org/cto/4145850473.html


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Pretty sure Mrs Dex is going to kick my ass when she finds out I just bought a bunch of new suspension parts for the Camaro...


----------



## envirotex

pretty sure...unless it's a safety thing...


----------



## blybrook PE

Dexman PE said:


> Pretty sure Mrs Dex is going to kick my ass when she finds out I just bought a bunch of new suspension parts for the Camaro...


Just have them delivered to the office and pay with cash. Then she wouldn't know until she went for a ride or watched u install them. Otherwise u might be screwed. Better be prepared fer offering bigger boobs (or ??) to make up for it.


----------



## Supe

Any recommendations on a fun to drive 5/6 speed manual station wagon that I can get in the $15k used range? My father wants to buy my Saturn to carry a dog around in since they now have an Accord Coupe as their main car, and I want something with 4 doors and more space than that.

I can't deal with the super firm sporty seats, so right now it looks like I'm probably going to be stuck with an Audi A4 Avant.


----------



## Road Guy

Subaru (cause its all about the love man).


----------



## Road Guy

Folks- I need to upgrade my shitty factory stereo for my (new to me) 02 Tahoe

I have been looking at crutch field. I ha e heard nothing but good things about them, but was going to get one of there rasps plus kits that comes with "everything" you need to self install..

Anyone used one of their kits before an are they pretty simple?? I am an average wrench turner but have just not had that great of luck with car stereo crap in my life!

Also the Tahoe has onstar and the website for crutch field is telling me I need to get a $69 part to make it work. I don't care to keep onstar but I wonder if the radio will work without the connector?

I don't want to go to best by for install and I went by a couple of small car audio shops but they all are usually fairly un ethical in my opinion...


----------



## Supe

Crutchfield kits are very good. 9 times out of 10, its an inline plug to keep OnStar/door chimes/alarms, and then its a matter of just crimping like-colored wires together. I installed one of their in dash DVD packages in about 30 minutes. If you call them and ask, I guarantee they can answer the OnStar question. Their tech support is actually pretty dang good.

As for the Subarus, I can't take the WRX seats. If I could find a Forester that has been done up a bit (lowered, decent wheels/tires) I'd consider it.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> Crutchfield kits are very good. 9 times out of 10, its an inline plug to keep OnStar/door chimes/alarms, and then its a matter of just crimping like-colored wires together. I installed one of their in dash DVD packages in about 30 minutes. If you call them and ask, I guarantee they can answer the OnStar question. Their tech support is actually pretty dang good.


I'll second this. They give you installation instructions for your specific car. IMHO finding out how the damn trim is attached is one of the biggest challenges and they have exploded views showing how to take it apart. If you have any issues you can call their tech support and they'll work it through with you. They list compatible vehicles and specifically tell you if it's a direct swap or if you need to modify things.

As for DIY and get parts from BestBuy, etc. they don't have all the connectors, etc. on sale out front but they do in the installer's area. I was putting a radio in and I biought the compatible connector from the store. When I finally got things apart the connector was wrong. I went ot the store and talked to the installer guy and he got me the correct connector from his parts area, it was a semi-hassle. I put a radio in another car and walked through what I was doing and what I needed with the crutchfield guy. I had all the correct parts and it went in pretty easily.

Lastly, I got my son a radio for Xmas and paid BestBuy to install it (I did not want to deal with it). They did a good job for relatively short money. I think it was less than $100.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Any recommendations on a fun to drive 5/6 speed manual station wagon that I can get in the $15k used range? My father wants to buy my Saturn to carry a dog around in since they now have an Accord Coupe as their main car, and I want something with 4 doors and more space than that.
> 
> I can't deal with the super firm sporty seats, so right now it looks like I'm probably going to be stuck with an Audi A4 Avant.




Older WRX wagon, but most I've seen have been modded/abused.

A practically unknown mechanical twin was a Saab 9-2.

Good luck finding an A4 or Subie that isn't automatic. They exist, but rarely cross the sales lots.


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on a fun to drive 5/6 speed manual station wagon that I can get in the $15k used range? My father wants to buy my Saturn to carry a dog around in since they now have an Accord Coupe as their main car, and I want something with 4 doors and more space than that.
> 
> I can't deal with the super firm sporty seats, so right now it looks like I'm probably going to be stuck with an Audi A4 Avant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Older WRX wagon, but most I've seen have been modded/abused.
> 
> A practically unknown mechanical twin was a Saab 9-2.
> 
> Good luck finding an A4 or Subie that isn't automatic. They exist, but rarely cross the sales lots.
Click to expand...



Can't deal with WRX seats. Too hard, kill my back. Finding manuals are tough. The other one I've been considering is the Forester XT. WRX suspension parts, turbo motor, readily available with a stick. Most haven't been beaten like the WRX/STIs, but they're good looking cars when lowered a bit with decent wheels. They also carry considerably more than most other wagons.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on a fun to drive 5/6 speed manual station wagon that I can get in the $15k used range? My father wants to buy my Saturn to carry a dog around in since they now have an Accord Coupe as their main car, and I want something with 4 doors and more space than that.
> 
> I can't deal with the super firm sporty seats, so right now it looks like I'm probably going to be stuck with an Audi A4 Avant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Older WRX wagon, but most I've seen have been modded/abused.
> 
> A practically unknown mechanical twin was a Saab 9-2.
> 
> Good luck finding an A4 or Subie that isn't automatic. They exist, but rarely cross the sales lots.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Can't deal with WRX seats. Too hard, kill my back. Finding manuals are tough. The other one I've been considering is the Forester XT. WRX suspension parts, turbo motor, readily available with a stick. Most haven't been beaten like the WRX/STIs, but they're good looking cars when lowered a bit with decent wheels. They also carry considerably more than most other wagons.
Click to expand...



You consider an HHR SS?


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on a fun to drive 5/6 speed manual station wagon that I can get in the $15k used range? My father wants to buy my Saturn to carry a dog around in since they now have an Accord Coupe as their main car, and I want something with 4 doors and more space than that.
> 
> I can't deal with the super firm sporty seats, so right now it looks like I'm probably going to be stuck with an Audi A4 Avant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Older WRX wagon, but most I've seen have been modded/abused.
> 
> A practically unknown mechanical twin was a Saab 9-2.
> 
> Good luck finding an A4 or Subie that isn't automatic. They exist, but rarely cross the sales lots.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Can't deal with WRX seats. Too hard, kill my back. Finding manuals are tough. The other one I've been considering is the Forester XT. WRX suspension parts, turbo motor, readily available with a stick. Most haven't been beaten like the WRX/STIs, but they're good looking cars when lowered a bit with decent wheels. They also carry considerably more than most other wagons.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> You consider an HHR SS?
Click to expand...



NO.

I sat in one at the NYAS the year it came out. Not only was it one of the crappiest interiors I'd ever seen, but the door handle trim came off in my hand as I exited the car.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Camaro. There is a ton of space under the hood for gear to help you haul ass. Plus there are 4 doors: drivers, passenger, hood, &amp; trunk. 

It's not a station wagon, but the 2009 Pontiac G8's are awesome (essentially a 4-door Camaro). Only way to get a manual is to get the fully-loaded GXP package though...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any recommendations on a fun to drive 5/6 speed manual station wagon that I can get in the $15k used range? My father wants to buy my Saturn to carry a dog around in since they now have an Accord Coupe as their main car, and I want something with 4 doors and more space than that.
> 
> I can't deal with the super firm sporty seats, so right now it looks like I'm probably going to be stuck with an Audi A4 Avant.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Older WRX wagon, but most I've seen have been modded/abused.
> 
> A practically unknown mechanical twin was a Saab 9-2.
> 
> Good luck finding an A4 or Subie that isn't automatic. They exist, but rarely cross the sales lots.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Can't deal with WRX seats. Too hard, kill my back. Finding manuals are tough. The other one I've been considering is the Forester XT. WRX suspension parts, turbo motor, readily available with a stick. Most haven't been beaten like the WRX/STIs, but they're good looking cars when lowered a bit with decent wheels. They also carry considerably more than most other wagons.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> You consider an HHR SS?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> NO.
> 
> I sat in one at the NYAS the year it came out. Not only was it one of the crappiest interiors I'd ever seen, but the door handle trim came off in my hand as I exited the car.
Click to expand...



But it goes like stink.


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Camaro. There is a ton of space under the hood for gear to help you haul ass. Plus there are 4 doors: drivers, passenger, hood, &amp; trunk.
> 
> It's not a station wagon, but the 2009 Pontiac G8's are awesome (essentially a 4-door Camaro). Only way to get a manual is to get the fully-loaded GXP package though...




I wish I could get a G8 GXP, but they're not puppy or budget friendly.


----------



## Road Guy

why does though want a wagon?


----------



## Master slacker

If you want a project at the same time:

Buick Roadmaster ($3k)

T56 six speed ($4k)

4.10 10-bolt rear end ($2k)

Save the rest for hookers and blow.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> why does though want a wagon?


'cause wagons are cool. B-bodies for FTMFW.

how about a Dodge Magnum


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> If you want a project at the same time:
> 
> Buick Roadmaster ($3k)
> 
> T56 six speed ($4k)
> 
> 4.10 10-bolt rear end ($2k)
> 
> Save the rest for hookers and blow.




I love the B-bod wagons! A six speed one would be a hoot.

Dang....I think I'd give up my Maxx for that.



MA_PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> why does though want a wagon?
> 
> 
> 
> 'cause wagons are cool. B-bodies for FTMFW.
> 
> how about a Dodge Magnum
Click to expand...



As a lifetime fan of Mother Mopar, I can say this with impugnity: it's a Dodge.

I love Dodge, I really do. I would never have one as my main driver.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Plus the Magnums only have an Automatic trans. Their interiors are horrible.

On the flip side, you could always turn it into this:

http://boomerjinks.deviantart.com/art/Ecto-1-Magnum-in-Denver-187146157

And yes, I know the owner...


----------



## Supe

Won't do a Dodge. Horrible interiors, and the steering feels like the column is made of rubber. Worst handling cars (Magnum, early Chargers, Chrysler 300s) I've been in since the Dodge Polara.

No projects, don't have time, need to get in and go. Otherwise, I'd be all over a Caprice wagon or Malibu Wagon build. Hell, I've got enough G Body spares to probably build a Malibu Wagon from scratch, excluding interior pieces.

As for wanting a wagon, 1) I'm a wagon fan, 2) more space for puppies than a sedan, 3) smaller/more fun to drive than an SUV, 4) crossovers are super gay.


----------



## Ble_PE

What about a VW Jetta Sportwage TDI?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Good luck finding a TDI for under $15k...


----------



## Ble_PE

^No clue on the cost, I just hadn't seen it mentioned. I have no idea what cars cost.


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> 4) crossovers are super gay.


I resent that remark. As does LadyFox.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I much prefer wagons to crossovers, but that's what they make nowadays, sadly. Crossovers are just jacked up wagons, with all the tipsy handling that implies.

Supe, I can't remember, did you sell your Malibu wagon racer?


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> I much prefer wagons to crossovers, but that's what they make nowadays, sadly. Crossovers are just jacked up wagons, with all the tipsy handling that implies.
> 
> Supe, I can't remember, did you sell your Malibu wagon racer?




Nope, still have it, but haven't run it in two years. I've been storing it at my boss' place to make room to work on the Mazda. Exploring two and four post lift options for my garage (ceiling height isn't bad, but there's an I beam that sticks waaaay down to support the bonus room above) so that I can store them both at my place again.


----------



## envirotex

one of the guys in my hood whose house burned down dug out a pit so that he could put in a street level lift in his garage...kind of like what they have at the fast oil change places...he's an engineer, too...


----------



## Supe

I'd love to put a rotary lift in the garage, but you'd never be able to get a bobcat in there to dig it out. As much clay as in the soil here, it'd be no easy task, either.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Well, crap. Collectible Automobiles just dropped the Cheap Wheels and Future Colectibles sections so they could expand their photo features. Stupid move from my point of view.

I subscribed since 1986, and have every issue they ever put out. Cheap Wheels was the first thing I read, Future Collectibles the second.

Oh, well. I guess I'l let my subscription lapse. Hemmings does it better, more frequently, and cheaper with Hemmings Classic Cars.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Broke the news to Mrs Dex this morning that I'll have some parts showing up at the front door shortly. She took it surprisingly well...


----------



## Road Guy

Dex you know anything about "car toys" they seem to be a local shop and are advertising a free install this month for car audio? there is one in boulder, but I am kind of hesitant to let some pot smoking hippie tie wires in my car  ?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Road Guy said:


> Dex you know anything about "car toys" they seem to be a local shop and are advertising a free install this month for car audio? there is one in boulder, but I am kind of hesitant to let some pot smoking hippie tie wires in my car  ?




Tell them you're gonna play some Dead. They'll buy it. It's a Prius.


----------



## Road Guy

its for my v8,4WD Tahoe....


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Oh, hell, no, then. Listen to your gas guzzling polluter, earth killer.


----------



## Road Guy

lol

i enjoy driving it around boulders streets with some hank cranked up..


----------



## knight1fox3

^ you should also remove the muffler. LMAO


----------



## Capt Worley PE

knight1fox3 said:


> ^ you should also remove the muffler. LMAO




I think some Blackjack headers and a 3" Flowmaster setup would work wonders.

Or a boss set of sidepipes!

And what is this shitake?



> i enjoy driving it around boulders streets with some hank cranked up..




Hank? You need to head back to Luckenbach TX, with Waylon and Willie and the boys.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> Dex you know anything about "car toys" they seem to be a local shop and are advertising a free install this month for car audio? there is one in boulder, but I am kind of hesitant to let some pot smoking hippie tie wires in my car  ?


They're just a smaller version of Best Buy who only deal in Car audio and cell phones (similar selection &amp; prices). You can safely extend your thoughts of Best Buy to them. Usually they're pretty good about getting everything installed properly. Only reason I'd go to a shop is the fact that if anything is broken during the install or if it doesn't work, they have to fix it (including dashboard parts) and I have a bad track record with trying to take those stupid plastic clips apart.


----------



## mudpuppy

I'm excited about the new Chevy Colorado--depending on fuel economy and price I might just have to start looking for one of those in a few years. I just can't justify a full-sized truck due to the fuel economy (not to mention sticker price).


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^The Colly looks waaaaay better than I guessed, based on the Rest of the World model.

The z71 looks badass.


----------



## Supe

The new Colorado is ugly as sin. Grill looks like a Cobalt crashed into a wall, and that windshield swept back for about a mile is heinous.


----------



## mudpuppy

I assume the swept back windshield is for aerodynamics since they're attempting to get pretty good mileage out of it.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> The new Colorado is ugly as sin.




Far, far better than the last one.


----------



## knight1fox3

Anyone have any good recommendations for a car stereo these days? My neighbor mentioned Alpine. I used to be pretty involved with that arena until the PC scene. And then I typically went with Pioneer products. Still do for my home theater equipment.

Anyway, so I go to Best Buy yesterday after work to see what kind of cost I'd be looking at for a new deck and custom installation. After all said and done close to $600?!?! :blink:


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I'm not an audiophile, so usually the factory shizzit is good enough for me. If it cost more than 200 bucks, I'd probably just listen to the engine.


----------



## knight1fox3

That or maybe some headphones. I agree. But the factory is fading in and out and sometimes just goes out. But I like listening to some of the talk radio programs in the morning on my 30 min. commute to work. Decisions decisions.


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> Anyone have any good recommendations for a car stereo these days? My neighbor mentioned Alpine. I used to be pretty involved with that arena until the PC scene. And then I typically went with Pioneer products. Still do for my home theater equipment.
> 
> Anyway, so I go to Best Buy yesterday after work to see what kind of cost I'd be looking at for a new deck and custom installation. After all said and done close to $600?!?! :blink:




Try Amazon or Walmart.


----------



## MA_PE

As with anyting these days you can spend a fortune if you want. Most of the newer factory units are pretty good. Look at Crutchfield online. they have a huge selection and can funnel it down to units that will be a simple install in most vehicles and they provide details installation instructions for the specific car. I have a Pioneer deck in my car and threw in some cheap aftermaket speakers in the factory location using the factory wiring.

A custom install for $600 sounds reasonable assuming it's a deck 4 speakers (are they separate woofer/tweeter/midrange too?) and installed.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The only complaint by most audiophiles with today's vehicles is the fact that the newer models are increasingly more difficult to go aftermarket. The stereo in my Camaro is damn near impossible to replace with anything aftermarket because of it's configuration/layout on the dash...


----------



## Master slacker

I swapped my wife's factory unit with one from a 2010 Scion. This thing is SO much better even with factory speakers. I plan to do a light upgrade when we shell out for the next child bus - HU, separates for the fronts, new rears, and a small sub. Nothing barbaric and definitely not over $500 total.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

If I did anything else to my system (already added a 12" sub &amp; amp), I'd probably upgrade the rear 6x9's. The rest of the system is already pretty nice.


----------



## mudpuppy

Dexman PE said:


> The only complaint by most audiophiles with today's vehicles is the fact that the newer models are increasingly more difficult to go aftermarket. The stereo in my Camaro is damn near impossible to replace with anything aftermarket because of it's configuration/layout on the dash...



On the other hand, factory stereos are a ton better than they used to be. Back in the 90s I did several installs and most vehicles came with crappy paper cone speakers. On the Aveo I replaced everything and honestly the factory speakers were pretty decent. Head unit was junk, though.

Back in the day Alpine was the shiizzit, but I have no idea how they stack up any more.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dexman PE said:


> The only complaint by most audiophiles with today's vehicles is the fact that the newer models are increasingly more difficult to go aftermarket. The stereo in my Camaro is damn near impossible to replace with anything aftermarket because of it's configuration/layout on the dash...




You ever see one of those radios in a Chevy Citation? Mounted sideways....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

mudpuppy said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> The only complaint by most audiophiles with today's vehicles is the fact that the newer models are increasingly more difficult to go aftermarket. The stereo in my Camaro is damn near impossible to replace with anything aftermarket because of it's configuration/layout on the dash...
> 
> 
> 
> On the other hand, factory stereos are a ton better than they used to be. Back in the 90s I did several installs and most vehicles came with crappy paper cone speakers. On the Aveo I replaced everything and honestly the factory speakers were pretty decent. Head unit was junk, though.
> 
> Back in the day Alpine was the shiizzit, but I have no idea how they stack up any more.
Click to expand...

Agreed. My car actually came with a Boston Acoustics setup that would blow the doors off of the aftermarket setup I had in my previous car. It has 6 speakers (two in each front door and a pair in the rear), and the only thing it really needed was a sub, which was fairly easy to add.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Another vote for Crutchfield. I put a radio in my old truck and they included an adapter plate and wiring harness specific to the vehicle at no extra charge. All I had to do was connect the stereo harness to the adapter for the car. The wiring/soldering took under an hour on my bench. The radio install took 5 minutes. The only thing I replaced was the head unit though. The speakers were fine.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Dashboards are increasingly more difficult to remove too.

My last car only needed a few screws and a couple plastic clips and you could access the stereo. I have to pull the entire dashboard out of the car to work on the stereo in the Camaro...


----------



## knight1fox3

^ Amazon will install it for me? :blink: Because I would certainly do that. LOL

And Walmarts are scary in this area. LOL


----------



## Road Guy

what did you have to solder with crutchfield? i thought most everythign with them was plug and play?

I was about to pull thr trigger on one for my new / old tahoe, cause playing the ipod through the cassette deck is getting old!


----------



## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> what did you have to solder with crutchfield? i thought most everythign with them was plug and play?
> 
> I was about to pull thr trigger on one for my new / old tahoe, cause playing the ipod through the cassette deck is getting old!




They give you an adapter that plugs into your car's wiring harness, but you have to solder this adapter to the radio itself. It's pretty straightforward. At least you can do this on a bench rather than on your back under the dashboard, which is the traditional method. No fun when only have two inches to work with you drip hot solder on your face.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> what did you have to solder with crutchfield? i thought most everythign with them was plug and play?
> 
> I was about to pull thr trigger on one for my new / old tahoe, cause playing the ipod through the cassette deck is getting old!


They give you a plug that matches the vehicle with marked wires coming out of it. The stereo comes with a similar plug. You have to match the wires from the vehicle connector to the stereo connector. If you can operate a soldering iron and aren't color blind it's pretty fool proof. Unfortunately, I AM partially color blind and had to get a little help from the wife in matching two shades of green and two shades of brown wire.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I just used those crimp-connectors. I don't think I've ever used a soldiering iron


----------



## Flyer_PE

Picture of the patch cord for 1999 GMC Sierra to Kenwood car stereo:


----------



## Flyer_PE

Dexman PE said:


> I just used those crimp-connectors. I don't think I've ever used a soldiering iron


Solder and heat-shrink tubing take up a lot less space than the crimp connectors.


----------



## Road Guy

Okay thanks, yeah I hate doing that kind of crap I may just have to suck it up and pay some high school dropout to do mine for me


----------



## mudpuppy

Flyer_PE said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just used those crimp-connectors. I don't think I've ever used a soldiering iron
> 
> 
> 
> Solder and heat-shrink tubing take up a lot less space than the crimp connectors.
Click to expand...

Yeah and crimp connectors can fail over time... I almost had a fire on my motorcycle from one that corroded. Luckily I noticed the smoke coming out before a real fire started (under the gas tank no less). But then the bike is a '79 and I have no idea how old the connector was.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> Okay thanks, yeah I hate doing that kind of crap I may just have to suck it up and pay some high school dropout to do mine for me


Soldering one of those connectors is a POC. Buy a cheap soldering iron at Radio shack and have your son do it. It's good experience for him.


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> ^ Amazon will install it for me? :blink: Because I would certainly do that. LOL
> 
> And Walmarts are scary in this area. LOL




Engineers with a PE-ness can install anything. Walmarts every where are scary...but they do have cheap electronics.


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> knight1fox3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^ Amazon will install it for me? :blink: Because I would certainly do that. LOL
> 
> And Walmarts are scary in this area. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Engineers with a PE-ness can install anything. Walmarts every where are scary...but they do have cheap electronics.
Click to expand...

Could I do it myself? Absolutely, I reached a master level of soldering in my undergraduate career. :thumbs: Do I have the time right now with grad school, work, and running a small business? NO. LOL It's one of those things, "How much will it cost me for someone else to do it?"


----------



## Master slacker

"If you want to make sure it's done correctly..."


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Here is the body kit that I want for my Camaro (picture width is smooshed):

Edit: here's a couple of links to better pics:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329381

http://gumball.betsafe.com/team/team-11/


----------



## roadwreck

Gumball 3000?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ It's one of those long-distance race clubs who take tricked out cars (Ferrari, Lamborghini, Mercedes) and race across the country. They are currently racing across Europe.

http://www.gumball3000.com/#/home


----------



## jeb6294

The center part of the dash has to come out in the Ram to get to the stereo, but it's actually pretty easy to take off. I had an actuator go bad back there so all I had was air coming out at the floor. Bought a new one that ended up being a crappy aftermarket piece that broke almost immediately. Took the factory actuator apart and rotated the stripped gear and put it back in and so far it is working fine *knock on wood*.

While my truck was in the shop they gave me a '13 for a loaner. My iPhone could link up via Bluetooth and stream my music and phone calls seemlessly. Got me spoiled pretty quick during the time I had it so I might have to upgrade as well. I do like the look of the Kenwood Excelon HU's.


----------



## blybrook PE

Only provided u tear the dash apart while its warm. I took mine apart to bolt in a secondary switch set, wiring and radio control cables. Wouldn't try it below 40*.

Am thinking of upgrading the radio for bluetooth and adding in a reverse camera. Not sure though.


----------



## Road Guy

Ill do a lot to a car, change the gas tank out, change the oil pump, radiators, etc, but I have just not had good luck with the electrical stuff... In a car.. I will do electrical in my house though.. Weird....


----------



## Master slacker

Faint smell of "hot" rubber / plastic from engine compartment over three weeks, but no indication of problems anywhere. On drive to work this morning, temperature gauge smack in the middle of "C" and "H", but no heat from heater. F***. Something is wrong, but car is driving fine. Probably just needs to be topped off and bled. Five minutes later, accelerating from 45 to 50 was difficult and I heard clickity-clackity-clickity-clackity over the radio. Double f***. Water isn't circulating! And at that moment, the idiot lights pop up. Slap it into Neutral, pull into a hardware store driveway (the only safe parking area for a few miles on a busy highway), shut off the car and coast to a parking spot. Open the hood and there is light smoking and the distinct smell of "hot" from the head. At this time, I believe the water pump is toast and I blew a head gasket. If it's any more than that, I may just have to scrap the car.


----------



## snickerd3

That sucks MS. hope it isn't too bad.


----------



## Supe

F*cking e-brake cable froze on my car this morning and won't release. Going to be a pleasure laying on the ground tonight, freezing my balls off to try to figure out why it's hung up. Hoping its not the caliper.


----------



## Master slacker

At home this evening, the car started up just fine. Pop the radiator cap and start pouring water in. The damned thing was plum empty! Dry as a frickin bone. Guess ill try to find the source of the leak when the weather allows. Either way, I'm probably out the cost of another head gasket. At lEast the silver lining in allof this is that I'll double the value of my car when it's done.


----------



## envirotex

water pump and head gaskets always go out during inclement weather. that's the law.


----------



## Supe

OK, so not only did my parking brake freeze, the glove box door crapped out too.

PB released itself during the day, but that damn glove box door was already replaced under warranty, which it's no longer under. It was a piss poor design, two opposing cams linked together by the worlds WEAKEST spring, with some lithium grease slathered on it. Problem is, when it's cold or it gets dusty, the spring can't overcome the goop.

Of course, this is a disposable part, since they ultrasonically weld the two plastic halves together after placing the latch assembly in. A replacement glove box door is $100. F*ck that. Pried the two halves apart, replaced the spring with a stronger one out of my HD Box-O-Springs, and liquid nails'd that bitch back together. Its in the garage clamping, should be ready to go back in.

Of course, that didn't end my day of automotive woes. I return home to see the Exxon Valdez in my driveway. Apparently it came from my truck, which I drove to work. GF says "oh yeah, I noticed that", but failed to tell me, and consequently, that stain isn't coming up any time soon. Crawled under there last night, and the oil filter had backed off some. You could see it all around the top. Since it was still warm and couldn't be turned by hand, I threw the channel locks on it, and got a good three quarters of a turn before it snugged up again. Hopefully that does it until I can do an oil change.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> At home this evening, the car started up just fine. Pop the radiator cap and start pouring water in. The damned thing was plum empty! Dry as a frickin bone. Guess ill try to find the source of the leak when the weather allows. Either way, I'm probably out the cost of another head gasket. At lEast the silver lining in allof this is that I'll double the value of my car when it's done.




My Maxx had the same dealio. No heat, but ran fine till it ran hot. had a slow leak in a T fitting under the engine. Surprisingly, a half liter drop in coolant makes a BIG difference.

How many head gaskets have you replaced on that thing so far?


----------



## Supe

Capt Worley PE said:


> Master slacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> At home this evening, the car started up just fine. Pop the radiator cap and start pouring water in. The damned thing was plum empty! Dry as a frickin bone. Guess ill try to find the source of the leak when the weather allows. Either way, I'm probably out the cost of another head gasket. At lEast the silver lining in allof this is that I'll double the value of my car when it's done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My Maxx had the same dealio. No heat, but ran fine till it ran hot. had a slow leak in a T fitting under the engine. Surprisingly, a half liter drop in coolant makes a BIG difference.
> 
> How many head gaskets have you replaced on that thing so far?
Click to expand...



I've also seen leaks from coolant reservoirs, and a few cars notorious for leaks at the heater core.


----------



## Master slacker

This will be the second head gasket. Replacing the head gasket itself isn't all that bad. However, if I have to replace the water pump as well, I'll produce numerous not-nice words. I now know that I must have a crack in the tubing from the radiator to the overflow tank... water in the tank was never sucked back into the radiator since the rad was dry. Until I can get under the car, it looks like I'll be replacing the head gasket / bolts, t-stat housing / gasket, maybe the t-stat itself, and tubing to overflow tank. Good thing this car was free to begin with.


----------



## Master slacker

Well, at this time, it appears that I have a busted freeze plug on the front of the block (radiator side). Pissed like a champ when i filled the radiator. This aught to be fun to pull and change out. I hope to God there isn't a freeze plug on the other side (firewall side). If there is, it'll just be a matter of time before that one blows, and I would have to make a deal with the devil to change that one out...


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Master slacker said:


> Well, at this time, it appears that I have a busted freeze plug on the front of the block (radiator side). Pissed like a champ when i filled the radiator. This aught to be fun to pull and change out. I hope to God there isn't a freeze plug on the other side (firewall side). If there is, it'll just be a matter of time before that one blows, and I would have to make a deal with the devil to change that one out...




Better start learning how to play the fiddle.


----------



## Master slacker

Doing the math, driving the pimp daddy sedan to work costs me an extra $800 per year in gas alone. In a one year payback, I could pay for all gaskets, bolts, beer, and an engine picker. I'll try to start the teardown tonight and, hoping the cylinders look OK, will order parts and go ahead and replace the neighbor freeze plug that's still "good" along with the bad one. Dug more on the Escort forum and found that there are two freeze plugs on the firewall side and even one on the block INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION BELLHOUSING. My Granny not only left me a gas saver, but also one hellacious way of helping me get my learn on when it comes to pulling / replacing anything and everything in a car.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^Escort forums, huh? They break them up into the different generations or lump them all together?


----------



## Master slacker

They're all broken out. Unfortunately, there are no sub-sections for each generation. If you own a 2nd gen (like me), everything from "How the F do you remove the alternator?" to "How do I use the turn signal?" is in that one area. Kinda sucks, but at least the search function is usable.


----------



## Supe

Ordered fiberglass door skins this afternoon. This stupid Mazda better be light as a feather by the time I'm done with the damn thing.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Big news down under!



> Holden has made the decision to pull out of Australia as early as 2016, according to senior Government ministers.
> 
> The ABC has been told the announcement was supposed to be made this week but has been put off until early next year.
> 
> Holden says its discussions with the Government are continuing, and it does not respond to speculation.
> 
> Industry Minister Ian Macfarlane says he has spoken to Holden tonight, and they have denied the reports.
> 
> The Federal Opposition has warned Holden would make the decision before Christmas if the Government did not announce an assistance package for the industry before then.
> 
> The Government has previously said it would wait for the findings of a Productivity Commission inquiry, due in March.
> 
> However, one source has told the ABC Holden wants to leave Australia regardless of any assistance package.



http://www.abc.net.au/news/2013-12-05/holden-to-pull-out-of-australia-from-2016-17/5138942


----------



## Supe

Can we bring Holden stateside, please?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Can we bring Holden stateside, please?


We already tried (Pontiac GTO)...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Can we bring Holden stateside, please?




That begs an interesting question...what of the SS and PPV after 2016?

Is Chevy working on a four door Alpha?


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can we bring Holden stateside, please?
> 
> 
> 
> We already tried (Pontiac GTO)...
Click to expand...

And the Holden version was marginally better looking than what GM did to it. I think the Ute would sell pretty well among the performance enthusiast crowd.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Supe said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can we bring Holden stateside, please?
> 
> 
> 
> We already tried (Pontiac GTO)...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And the Holden version was marginally better looking than what GM did to it. I think the Ute would sell pretty well among the performance enthusiast crowd.
Click to expand...

Ridiculously small niche. I doubt they'd move 7500 units/yr. I'd be surprised to see over 5K, and that'd be a quickly filled market.

I actually agreed wit GM for not bringing the Ute over in 2008.


----------



## knight1fox3

Where's Bly? I wonder if he could make this work on one of his vehicles. LOL

&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHM9bh-qlec


----------



## blybrook PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Where's Bly? I wonder if he could make this work on one of his vehicles. LOL


I KNOW that I can make it work. Theres a couple dealers up here that sell them. Wanted to do it to my plow truck until I saw the price, $5k per axle for the locally available ones. Only paid $600 for the plow &amp; truck!

Several people have them on their 4wheelers, seem to work pretty well in the right snow conditions. Wrong conditions and u just sink till yer stuck.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Just put them on the rear drive axles, then put ski's on the front...


----------



## blybrook PE

^ thats been done too. Called snowmobile or sno-go or sled


----------



## Capt Worley PE




----------



## mudpuppy

blybrook PE said:


> ^ thats been done too. Called snowmobile or *sno-go* or sled




No, THIS is a sno-go:


----------



## jeb6294

Yay, I have brakes again!!!

To be perfectly honest, I probably shouldn't have even been driving the truck. The front brakes were shot...obviously metal-on-metal...but my new rotors and pads took a little longer to get here than I thought. I had them delivered to my mom's house since she has a little more room in her garage to work. Stopped at a traffic light on the way there, but when I hit the brakes, the pedal kept going and going. Fortunately her house was all uphill from where I was, so with the help of engine braking and gravity I was able to get it there.

I had gotten new sport rotors, i.e. slotted and dimpled *bling*, and pads from EBC and also picked up some new calipers from Advance Auto Parts just in case I needed them. I really wish I had gotten a picture of the passenger side caliper before I boxed it up to return for my core exchange. The pads were beyond gone and the rotor was shredded. One of the pistons had been pushed out so far that it came out of the cylinder...that would explain the loss of pressure and that dragging I heard/felt. Everything got replaced with minimal hassles and I was on my way home after a few hours with a very spongy brake pedal, but at least I had brakes. The next day I bled everything since I could do that in the driveway. Heck, Mopar was nice enough to design the rear so you don't even have to take the wheels off. The front passenger side had so much air in the line that I kept loosening the screw because I wasn't getting any fluid. Few pedal pumps later, all is right with the world again and I can stop on a dime.


----------



## blybrook PE

Brakes are really nice thing to have. Remember loosing them in the plow truck. Just dropped the plow and downshifted when I wanted to stop.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I blew a wheel cylinder on the rear of my 66 Bug. With a single reservoir brake system, I lost all the brake fluid, and since the brake fluid oiled up the drums, the e-brake only worked on one wheel.

Drove it from downtown in 5 o'clock traffic.

I was young, stupid, and fearless.


----------



## matt267 PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> I was young, stupid, and fearless.




Thinking back to my younger years, I say the same thing. Most of us were also really lucky.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^It's a wonder I made it through high school without putting my truck in the bottom of a ravine. If my little POS Truck would have had a little more power, there's no way I would have survived.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^My first two cars were in th mid fifty hp range, and the first one I bought as a 'responsible' adult only had 108hp.

I owe my longevity to underpowered cars. You can wail the poo out of them, and just be keeping up with traffic.

I might have to look at the 3cyl Fiesta. I bet I could have a blast with it.


----------



## blybrook PE

Capt,

Similar experience on a Ford Ranger, blew out the rear line coming down the hill in Duluth, MN after visiting Best Buy. Thankfully it was a clutch and still had front brakes as I drove it back home in Michigan (UP) ~200 miles. Was a fun trip, but wouldn't recommend it to the week of heart.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

^I had a Ranger. back brakes didn't do much anyway. I could always hear the RABS solenoid cycling when I hit the brakes on any moist surface.


----------



## blybrook PE

Capt Worley PE said:


> ^I had a Ranger. back brakes didn't do much anyway. I could always hear the RABS solenoid cycling when I hit the brakes on any moist surface.


RABS, whats that?
I disabled mine by driving it in MI winters. Wires were shot, but the brakes worked fine otherwise.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Rear Antilock Braking System. Rangers had RABS from 1987, I think. Helps a lot cuz that is one light-hinied truck.


----------



## blybrook PE

I was kidding Capt. I knew what it was, they were light in the rear, but like I posted earlier, I had disabled it. Didn't make things any worse, thats fer sure.


----------



## Supe

Damn drive-by-wire pedal is shitting out. First 3/4 of pedal goes completely dead. Supposed to be an engine overrev safety feature, but makes me 10x more likely to stall out in traffic with a manual trans, and makes merging on the highway very dangerous...


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Wow! If you don't have a problem with buy a VW (their maintenance costs scare the heck out of me) this looks like a really good deal.

http://www.leftlanenews.com/vw-unveils-new-jetta-tdi-value-edition.html#


----------



## Master slacker

I'd love to have a TDI, but I ain't gonna pay that much on one.


----------



## jglavin PE

FNG here, just thought I'd jump in with my lowly Focus:







...And in winter trim (currently):






It's a '13 Focus ST. My fiancee and I bought it last winter, paid about $28k for the fully loaded model. Never owned a Ford before... Cross shopped with a Subaru WRX and a Dodge Dart, preferred the interior of the Ford to the WRX and the Dart was too slow for me.

The car came with 18x8 wheels stock but I recently added the narrower 16x6.5 steelies with snow tires so I could actually drive it in winter (before, I just drove my truck when it snowed). Although 16s are supposed to fit, there were some sloppy welds on the wheels I got and we had to take a grinder to them to get the wheels around the front brakes.

In the few real snow storms I've driven through here in CO, I have no problems getting around as long as the snow tires are on there. In sport mode, the car actually quite likes to get sideways which can be helpful to mitigate understeer on icy corners. Not that I would do anything irresponsible, mind you...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Welcome to the club....slow poke.


----------



## jglavin PE

Yup, you won't see me at Bandemeer anytime soon that's for sure :laugh:


----------



## jglavin PE

See, I don't even know how to spell it! :facepalm:


----------



## knight1fox3

http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/equus-unveils-detroit-newest-muscle-car-250-000-194128946.html


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

jglavin said:


> Yup, you won't see me at Bandemeer anytime soon that's for sure :laugh:


No worries. I've only been there once, and the car sat in the parking lot as friends raced their cars.


----------



## NJmike PE

so I'm not a big motor head my any means. Basic knowledge of cars. That being said, I figured I'd share my most recent breakdown, and those of you who do know cars will come to appreciate exactly how lucky I was. I own an '02 Nissan Xterra; at the time of this story (last April) 135k miles. Driving along a back country road and not flying by any means. I come around a bend in the road and lose all power; almost like my battery died. Turned out it was my timing belt. Anyone who knows anything about my engine (3.3L V6), knows that this is an interference motor. I was freaking out and prepping for the worst. I didn't have $2500 for a rebuilt, nor did I have $$ to replace the car. In the end, no valve damage, nothing. replaced the belt and I was back up on running. Talk about being part of the 1%.


----------



## blybrook PE

Having owned interference engines, you really lucked out! Doing the best I can to ensure all my rigs are non-interference now days, so far, so good!

Several models now have a regularly scheduled timing belt replacement to prevent failure. Should just go back to timing gears and be done with it. Those are highly unlikely to fail. Timing chains can stretch, I prefer the gears. So what if they cost a little more up front, saves yer a$$ down the road!


----------



## Master slacker

Non interferencece fw


----------



## NJmike PE

So driving home from work this evening I had my xterra in 4wd due to the snow storm and I noticed that the trans was slipping a bit. I took it out of 4wd and it stopped. Here's to hoping that all I need is to add some fluid. I'm not that interested in a trans problem.


----------



## RIP - VTEnviro

Just google the term 'tranny' and you'll get plenty of helpful info.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

VTEnviro said:


> Just google the term 'tranny' and you'll get plenty of helpful info.




Make sure you do an image search so you can be sure it is the problem you are having.


----------



## NJmike PE

What? isn't that like being prepared for every situation...


----------



## Dark Knight

Shopping for a new car or SUV here. The model will depend on how much money I will have available when the time comes. Here is the final list, in order of preference:

1) Honda CRV or Mazda CX-5: Wanted the Ford Explorer but it is a bit pricey. The CX-5 is getting very good reviews. The Honda...well..Honda is Honda. I do have a Toyota RAV4. Do not want another one. A little dissapointed with the handling and the way it rides.

2) Ford Fusion, Honda Accord, or Mazda 6: All good cars. So far the Mazda seems to be the front runner because $$$$ concerns.

3) Mazda 3, or Ford Focus: Both hatchback models. Mazda 3 was named car of the year by Autoguider but those Fords Focus are darn good too.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

I like the Mazda 3 hatch best of all you mentioned, but my likes may be completely different from yours.

My needs would send me towards the CX-5, but I highly recommend you look at the Escape and Terrain, if that's your genre.


----------



## MetsFan

NJmike PE said:


> So driving home from work this evening I had my xterra in 4wd due to the snow storm and I noticed that the trans was slipping a bit. I took it out of 4wd and it stopped. Here's to hoping that all I need is to add some fluid. I'm not that interested in a trans problem.




What year is yours? I have two friends with first gen xterras and they both experience the same thing when switching to 4wd.




Dark Knight said:


> Shopping for a new car or SUV here. The model will depend on how much money I will have available when the time comes. Here is the final list, in order of preference:
> 
> 1) Honda CRV or Mazda CX-5: Wanted the Ford Explorer but it is a bit pricey. The CX-5 is getting very good reviews. The Honda...well..Honda is Honda. I do have a Toyota RAV4. Do not want another one. A little dissapointed with the handling and the way it rides.
> 
> 2) Ford Fusion, Honda Accord, or Mazda 6: All good cars. So far the Mazda seems to be the front runner because $$$$ concerns.
> 
> 3) Mazda 3, or Ford Focus: Both hatchback models. Mazda 3 was named car of the year by Autoguider but those Fords Focus are darn good too.





That's a lot of different options. Have you looked at Hyundai or Kia at all? I really like the Sonata and the Optima.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've had a Mazda 6 on the top of my list each of the last two times I went car shopping (each different body styles). Both times, they looked awesome on paper, but I just couldn't pull the trigger once I sat in one. I didn't like the interiors, the handling, they just felt "off". I really like the look of the newest Mazda 6, but have no idea how they feel on the road. I'm guessing within the next year or so we'll be looking for a 3rd car, simply for commuting purposes, and no doubt I'll be looking at the Mazdas again...


----------



## Dark Knight

Capt Worley PE said:


> I like the Mazda 3 hatch best of all you mentioned, but my likes may be completely different from yours.
> 
> My needs would send me towards the CX-5, but I highly recommend you look at the Escape and Terrain, if that's your genre.




CX-5 is my favorite. It will fit my need for a new vehicle to go to work and go kayaking (hobby). Did look at the Explorer and it was my main target before starting the research. But it is a bit pricey for the things you get on it and the residual value is not something to be excited about. Did not look at the Terrain because did not come even close to the Explorer, CRV, and CX5 in the reviews.



MetsFan said:


> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> So driving home from work this evening I had my xterra in 4wd due to the snow storm and I noticed that the trans was slipping a bit. I took it out of 4wd and it stopped. Here's to hoping that all I need is to add some fluid. I'm not that interested in a trans problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What year is yours? I have two friends with first gen xterras and they both experience the same thing when switching to 4wd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dark Knight said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shopping for a new car or SUV here. The model will depend on how much money I will have available when the time comes. Here is the final list, in order of preference:
> 
> 1) Honda CRV or Mazda CX-5: Wanted the Ford Explorer but it is a bit pricey. The CX-5 is getting very good reviews. The Honda...well..Honda is Honda. I do have a Toyota RAV4. Do not want another one. A little dissapointed with the handling and the way it rides.
> 
> 2) Ford Fusion, Honda Accord, or Mazda 6: All good cars. So far the Mazda seems to be the front runner because $$$$ concerns.
> 
> 3) Mazda 3, or Ford Focus: Both hatchback models. Mazda 3 was named car of the year by Autoguider but those Fords Focus are darn good too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a lot of different options. Have you looked at Hyundai or Kia at all? I really like the Sonata and the Optima.
Click to expand...



Mine is a 2011 RAV4. Had a Hyundai once. It was enough. Safety wise it will be better to ride a motorcycle. Had a crash @ 25mph and totaled the darn thing.



Dexman PE said:


> I've had a Mazda 6 on the top of my list each of the last two times I went car shopping (each different body styles). Both times, they looked awesome on paper, but I just couldn't pull the trigger once I sat in one. I didn't like the interiors, the handling, they just felt "off". I really like the look of the newest Mazda 6, but have no idea how they feel on the road. I'm guessing within the next year or so we'll be looking for a 3rd car, simply for commuting purposes, and no doubt I'll be looking at the Mazdas again...




As I go deep in my research that seems to be the consensus among the "experts": Mazda is a better choice. The part ways with Ford and this Mazdas; 6, 3, and CX5 are their first ones on their own. They moved from Michigan and are now in Japan. They came with completely redesigned vehicles and are making a lot of splash. The darn Ford Focus ST looks SUPER too.


----------



## MA_PE

I don't know how long ago you had a Hyundai but the new ones are pretty nice.

I really like the Ford Fusion and just went to look at Chevy Malibu or Impala. All nice cars IMHO I'm just too cheap to go new.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

Dark Knight said:


> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I like the Mazda 3 hatch best of all you mentioned, but my likes may be completely different from yours.
> 
> My needs would send me towards the CX-5, but I highly recommend you look at the Escape and Terrain, if that's your genre.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CX-5 is my favorite. It will fit my need for a new vehicle to go to work and go kayaking (hobby). Did look at the Explorer and it was my main target before starting the research. But it is a bit pricey for the things you get on it and the residual value is not something to be excited about. Did not look at the Terrain because did not come even close to the Explorer, CRV, and CX5 in the reviews.
Click to expand...



I'd put more faith in personal seat time than reviews. Some perfectly acceptable vehicles are pilloried by the automotive press because the 'tech is old' or it doesn't handle like a slot car. Drive em all and see what you like.

Remember, you may not be after cutting edge or 10/10s handling. Heck, a used Equinox or Traverse may be perfect for you.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

MA_PE said:


> I don't know how long ago you had a Hyundai but the new ones are pretty nice.




They all seem to have tranny and tranny peripheral problems, though.


----------



## NJmike PE

MetsFan said:


> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> So driving home from work this evening I had my xterra in 4wd due to the snow storm and I noticed that the trans was slipping a bit. I took it out of 4wd and it stopped. Here's to hoping that all I need is to add some fluid. I'm not that interested in a trans problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What year is yours? I have two friends with first gen xterras and they both experience the same thing when switching to 4wd.
Click to expand...



2002. Any indication what the issue might be?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Capt Worley PE said:


> Dark Knight said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Capt Worley PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I like the Mazda 3 hatch best of all you mentioned, but my likes may be completely different from yours.
> 
> My needs would send me towards the CX-5, but I highly recommend you look at the Escape and Terrain, if that's your genre.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CX-5 is my favorite. It will fit my need for a new vehicle to go to work and go kayaking (hobby). Did look at the Explorer and it was my main target before starting the research. But it is a bit pricey for the things you get on it and the residual value is not something to be excited about. Did not look at the Terrain because did not come even close to the Explorer, CRV, and CX5 in the reviews.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> I'd put more faith in personal seat time than reviews. Some perfectly acceptable vehicles are pilloried by the automotive press because the 'tech is old' or it doesn't handle like a slot car. Drive em all and see what you like.
> 
> Remember, you may not be after cutting edge or 10/10s handling. Heck, a used Equinox or Traverse may be perfect for you.
Click to expand...

And I would even say that you should test drive the car you would buy. Don't test drive one car, then buy another just because the dealership doesn't want miles on their stock. Find the one equipped the way you want it and only drive that one. The first 2 Camaros I drove, I hated. The first was a V6 with a Manual trans (because I wanted a manual), and the 2nd was a V8 Manual "test drive" model. The V6 was an absolute dog, because it didn't have the upgraded suspension, brakes, and most importantly the power that the V8 SS had. I wanted a V8 Manual, but the "test drive" car had a sunroof that reduced the headroom too much for my liking and I felt cramped. Once I got behind the wheel of the car equipped the way I wanted, the car felt differently and I bought that one.


----------



## MetsFan

NJmike PE said:


> MetsFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> So driving home from work this evening I had my xterra in 4wd due to the snow storm and I noticed that the trans was slipping a bit. I took it out of 4wd and it stopped. Here's to hoping that all I need is to add some fluid. I'm not that interested in a trans problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What year is yours? I have two friends with first gen xterras and they both experience the same thing when switching to 4wd.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 2002. Any indication what the issue might be?
Click to expand...



Must be a common issue with those first gens. One of them bought it brand new in 2000, but I don't think he ever got it resolved. I'll ask them to see if they know what the deal is.


----------



## NJmike PE

MetsFan said:


> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetsFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> So driving home from work this evening I had my xterra in 4wd due to the snow storm and I noticed that the trans was slipping a bit. I took it out of 4wd and it stopped. Here's to hoping that all I need is to add some fluid. I'm not that interested in a trans problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What year is yours? I have two friends with first gen xterras and they both experience the same thing when switching to 4wd.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 2002. Any indication what the issue might be?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Must be a common issue with those first gens. One of them bought it brand new in 2000, but I don't think he ever got it resolved. I'll ask them to see if they know what the deal is.
Click to expand...

thanks


----------



## MetsFan

NJmike PE said:


> thanks




Well they both said it really only happens when you fully lock the wheel when turning. They haven't done anything about it since they figured it was because of the 4x4 system.


----------



## NJmike PE

MetsFan said:


> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well they both said it really only happens when you fully lock the wheel when turning. They haven't done anything about it since they figured it was because of the 4x4 system.
Click to expand...





I have a feeling either I was low on fluid, the fluid itself was cold, or my transmission is going.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

This morning on the way in to work, I saw a Cadillac Cimarron complete with wire wheel covers and Tokyo-by-night instrument panel. Body looked straight, and I believe it was a four cylinder.


----------



## MA_PE

you mean a Chevy cavalier with leather seats? Weren't they all 4-bangers?


----------



## Capt Worley PE

No, I think they got the V6 before, or about the time the Z24 did.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP




----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Here's a hint at what I did this weekend:


----------



## envirotex

Cars and Coffee in our area brings out a mobile dyno all the time...Most hp I've ever seen on it was 698. It was a Cadillac CTS with two baby seats in the back...


----------



## Supe

Our local C&amp;C is no more. We even made Jalopnik. Some asshat tried doing a burnout leaving the parking lot, got sideways, panicked, and ended up taking out a fire hydrant.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

There are a couple C&amp;C groups in the Denver area. They never seem to get much attention as of late simply because the businesses don't like their parking blocked off for a bunch of gear-heads loitering around and drooling on each others' cars.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Here's the video for the above graph. The test doesn't really start until the 0:45 mark.


----------



## knight1fox3

Toyota recalls 1.9 million Prius hybrids to fix software problem

http://www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-hy-toyota-prius-recall-20140212,0,4269153.story#axzz2t9Wj1msT


----------



## Supe

http://www.cnn.com/2014/02/12/us/national-corvette-museum-cars-fall/

This is a total tragedy...


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> http://www.cnn.com/2014/02/12/us/national-corvette-museum-cars-fall/
> 
> This is a total tragedy...


Yes it is. I started the thread in the STB because I thought it deserved its own thread. I'm amazed that a hole that size could form without some advance warning. So far I'm not buying the generic explanations being told to the media. If the subsurface conditions are so volatile then there should be more precautions taken. Thank god it decided to go during off hours.
http://engineerboards.com/index.php?showtopic=22908


----------



## Master slacker

Vroom bitches


----------



## Supe

Driver's side of roll cage is finished. What a fiasco. My legs, ass, and back are KILLING me from the contortion act I put on all weekend trying to weld everything. I've been on jungle gyms that were easier to navigate.


----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Master slacker

Brakes that could stop a dump truck.


----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Capt Worley PE

Master slacker said:


> Brakes that could stop a dump truck.


pwn3d by a Lexus IS.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ I think it was more of a function of the POS car the cameraman was riding in...


----------



## NJmike PE

So my wife's ABS light is on and the 4WD light is flashing too. I am told that this is due to a broken toner ring. Apparently it is common amongst Ford Escapes. Anyone ever have any experience in changing one? Difficult? Easy?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's not really that difficult. Just drive it to the closest Chevy dealership, sign some paperwork, and TADA! No more problems with your Ford...


----------



## knight1fox3

> 49 Cadillac, completely covered with 38,295 Pennies!
> 
> Pennies were attached one by one using silicone. They add over 200 pounds to the weight of the car.
> 
> The entire project took 6 weeks. Pennies are American and include 1817 ''Big Cent'', two error pennies and four 1943 steel pennies.
> 
> The value of the pennies is $382.95. The labor to prepare the car and metal had to be very expensive and the pennies would weigh a lot more than a good paint job!


----------



## NJmike PE

NJmike PE said:


> So my wife's ABS light is on and the 4WD light is flashing too. I am told that this is due to a broken tone*r* ring. Apparently it is common amongst Ford Escapes. Anyone ever have any experience in changing one? Difficult? Easy?


BTW, this was wicked easy to do. I didn't have a computer scanner and the tone ring was $15 per side, so I opted to replace both. Less than an hour per side.


----------



## Supe

So the other weekend I picked up my T101a built by the guy who built Ganassi's transmissions. It is frickin' sweet. It also looks like I'm going to be getting a clutch sponsorship, since I'm in uncharted territory for them (mostly drag and road race guys, they don't make clutches that can be slipped at low RPM for parking/paddock area, with huge clamping force under load).

Also looks like I'm getting rid of my stupid MSD box and distributor. I hate them with a passion, and am converting to DIS, using my Holley EFI to drive the coils. It will declutter everything, and make replacing my ignition components a wash.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Debating getting a tow hook installed on the Camaro when I take it in to get it's front bumper replaced. This is something more for the track guys, but I like the look. It's only $90, and would be easy to install while the front bumper is taken apart. Thoughts?

Here's a pic (I'm talking about the little red hoop extending from the lower grill):


----------



## MA_PE

Is it only on one side? Personally, I don't think it adds anything looks-wise. If you have no purpose or intent to ever use it then I'd for get it and spend the $90 on beer.


----------



## Road Guy

But it would be helpful for when he breaks down on the side of the road and that mustang has to pull him down the road ha ha


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It would have been really helpful that first winter I had it back when I still had the summer tires on it. If anything, I think it would be helpful since I drive the car year round and it does see snow. As is, the car does not have a means to be towed without damaging either of the bumpers (including being winched onto a flat bed tow truck).


----------



## MA_PE

if you need ii to pull the car then definitely go for it. Do they only do one side so it's pulled eccentrically? I know in track cars there is usually someone steering it and the resistance is only the rolling resistance of the car. Dragging I out from being stuck is something completely different but hooking to a tow hook is better than just hooking up on whatever is available and praying.


----------



## Road Guy

I have a set of them on my 2002 Tahoe, I think they look really nice


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've never seen one installed in the middle, it's always one one side or the other. Not sure why. Maybe so it's in line with the frame rails? :dunno:


----------



## blybrook PE

Dexman PE said:


> I've never seen one installed in the middle, it's always one one side or the other.  Not sure why.  Maybe so it's in line with the frame rails? :dunno:


Yep, in line with the frame to distribute the load. Main reason a wrecker won't hook to a trailer hitch; worried about doing damage.

Have a good set of hooks on front of the truck, but then again; it now has front and rear hitch assemblies. It has more pulling options.


----------



## MA_PE

I agree that hooks are typically aligned/connected directly to the frame rails, but the Camaro is a unibody. It would depend on the trailer hitch whether or not it's a good connection point. Many trailer hitches, especially the higher classes are welded directly to the frame. Light duty may not be.

IMHO, If you start dragging something eccentrically that wouldn't be the most desirable situation. Best scenario would be a chain/spreader between the two hooks and pull on the chain (even pull to each side). If you pull from one side, someone needs to be inside steering to avoid just dragging everything sideways.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Here's an exploded view of the front of the car. The tow hook would bolt on just inside of where #10 points.


----------



## Road Guy

I see alot of cars that have a hook on one side in the front or back that I presume it is just used to pull a car out of the ditch or for a short distance and not intendid to be used as a "whatever you call how a RV might pull a car behind it" ??


----------



## Supe

I've got tow hooks on my unibody, hasn't been an issue. In fact, on the Mazda, the factory put them there.

Sadly, I've NEEDED to use them


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ The factory tow hook on my Jetta was on the passenger side. You had to pop off a piece of the front bumper and screw it on.

Shown here at the 0:40 mark

&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsGJ3Xowy-s


----------



## matt267 PE

Dexman PE said:


> ^^^ The factory tow hook on my Jetta was on the passenger side. You had to pop off a piece of the front bumper and screw it on.
> 
> Shown here at the 0:40 mark
> 
> &gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsGJ3Xowy-s


Good video. I have now learned something today. I guess I can start drinking for the evening.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> I see alot of cars that have a hook on one side in the front or back that I presume it is just used to pull a car out of the ditch or for a short distance and not intendid to be used as a "whatever you call how a RV might pull a car behind it" ??






That hook is mainly for the original transport from the factory to the dealer as a tiedown point (or on the ship if from overseas). They can be used as a pulling point, but it wasn't their original intent (per a couple owners manuals that I've reviewed). Definately not used for a towbar attachment.

Dex, you'll probably fine adding it. Even if it is just for looks, better to have it and not need it than the other way around.


----------



## jeb6294

Dexman PE said:


> Debating getting a tow hook installed on the Camaro when I take it in to get it's front bumper replaced. This is something more for the track guys, but I like the look. It's only $90, and would be easy to install while the front bumper is taken apart. Thoughts?
> 
> Here's a pic (I'm talking about the little red hoop extending from the lower grill):


You'd be the coolest guy in the K-mart parking lot when you and all your buddy's are hangin out with their moms' souped up Civics.

I've seen them and I think they are they used to be fine, but I think it's one of those things that rice burners have kind of ruined for everyone else. They throw them on their crapped out Hondas because they think they look cool.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

They're put on the Hondas because the owners don't want to tear up their cheapo body kits when (not if) they breakdown.

The one I ordered is yellow to match the car. Worst case scenario is that I don't like it and end up selling it.


----------



## David Wooderson

Let me tell you what Melba Toast is packin' right here, all right. We got 4:11 Positrac outback, 750 double pumper, Edelbrock intake, bored over 30, 11 to 1 pop-up pistons, turbo-jet 390 horsepower. We're talkin' some [email protected]' muscle.


----------



## Supe

Diff swap in the RX7 is done. Posi IRS rear out of a Ford Explorer, 3.73 gears. Axles are a custom piece with Ford parts on the inners, outer CV's are out of a Mazda 626. Bolts into stock RX7 differential location, but the factory subframe had to be modified to accept the 8.8 diff front mounting location, and to reinforce the camber link. Ring gear size increased from 8" to 8.8" with the swap, and rear gear ratios are virtually endless now. Factory RX7 diff has 4.10 and 4.33 only, so I was running out of RPM way too soon and first gear was essentially useless.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ I was going to ask what the stock ratios were in the RX7. Bee has 3.27's (3.45 in the automatics), and have been debating upgrading to the 3.91's (stock in the 1LE package). The biggest downside is that Bee is a daily driver and I can only imagine how much that will kill whatever fuel mileage I already get.


----------



## Master slacker

^^^ Broad, generic application of math guess is that your MPG will drop 16.37%. Of course, that takes no consideration into your typical cruising speed, frequency of low speed gear changes, etc...

For the B-Body Impalas, moving from a 3.08 to a 3.73 gear drops fuel economy only marginally (&lt;10%).


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's mixed city, high-speed freeway. I really don't get above 2500rpm when I'm just cruising (commuting, running errands, etc), but I still love really getting on it when I hit on-ramps.

Driving to work, I am either going 80 (2000rpm in 6th gear) or 15mph (1500rpm in 2nd). I know the increased gear ratio will increase my rpm's by ~15%

Since I really don't do any racing with it I don't see the point of the upgrade. It would cost me ~$1200 in parts and labor to do it and a few other minor differential upgrades, plus the decreased gas mileage.


----------



## Road Guy

I hate to ruin the automotive thread by posting about my old lady's Prius in here....

But guess whose wife's car needs a new hybrid battery on the 2006 Prius she bought with her own money while I was out of town?

But guess who is lucky as shit it has less than 100k miles on it and Toyota is paying for it?

I don't normally drive it but it was blocking my car yesterday so I drove my kid to school and it just died half way there.. Very odd.. Had it towed to the place and they called a few hours ago to tell us the bad and good news....


----------



## knight1fox3

How much do they normally go for?


----------



## Road Guy

I've heard they are around $2500 bucks, when the Prius first came out the story was that the batteries were $5k


----------



## MetsFan

My car has been idling very rough recently. It only happens when on drive though, it stops when I switch it to neutral. There's a code for one of the solenoid valves, so I'm going to take them out, clean them, and switch them. Other than that, I've read that it could be the coil pack or the spark plugs. Hopefully it doesn't turn out to be another expensive year.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Bee is home!!


----------



## maryannette

You parked crooked.


----------



## Road Guy

Where's the little hook?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It didn't show up in time for the shop to install it. I will try to get it installed one of these days...


----------



## Road Guy

It looks sharp!


----------



## matt267 PE

Did you get his voice fixed?


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> ^^^ I was going to ask what the stock ratios were in the RX7. Bee has 3.27's (3.45 in the automatics), and have been debating upgrading to the 3.91's (stock in the 1LE package). The biggest downside is that Bee is a daily driver and I can only imagine how much that will kill whatever fuel mileage I already get.



How deep is first gear on that car, and how tall is the tire?


----------



## Master slacker




----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> But guess whose wife's car needs a new hybrid battery on the 2006 Prius she bought with her own money while I was out of town?


This is why I didn't buy a hybrid. I bought a Honda Fit two weeks ago, and since then everyone has been asking me why I didn't get a Leaf or Prius. To me the hybrids just seem like you now have to worry about maintaining two motors. One is enough for me. The leaf would be okay for commuting, but I'd never be able to go on a road trip with it. I've been pretty happy with the Fit so far. I've been getting just shy of 40 mpg commuting with it. The original plan was to keep my old car (mazda 6) and just commute with the Fit, but in the past two weeks I've driven the mazda once and that was a two mile roundtrip (to the gym and back). I've come to the conclusion that it just doesn't make sense to keep it. It's gonna cost me $600 a year just to keep it insured and keep the license current. That seems like a waste if it's going to spend 95% of it's time parked in the driveway. It's also 10 years old and has 140k miles on it, so it needs things replaced pretty frequently these days. So I washed it for probably the last time this afternoon and plan to take it over the CarMax to see what they'll offer for it later today. Tis a sad day.


----------



## Road Guy

And I should further clarify the Prius is in the wife's name... I was not involved in its purchase. But I am going to commit to driving it 2-3 days a week to the new job (after I have worked there several months and my new coworkers know that I am not a ghey) then I might drive the Prius and then just tell people I rode the bus that day...

And I agree with you. when I bought the jeep as a 3rd car it was a complete extra expense I didn't need. Insurance , taxes, oil changes.. Tires, etc.... It just wasn't worth it to have a 3rd vehicle....


----------



## Master slacker

Let us know what the carmax value of the Mazda is. I'm simply curious.


----------



## roadwreck

Master slacker said:


> Let us know what the carmax value of the Mazda is. I'm simply curious.


$2,500. 

If they'd offered $3k they'd have a Mazda right now. The only negative they noted was the large dent in the trunk lid, which I acquired about six weeks ago in a grocery store parking lot. The offer is good for 7 days. Now I have to decide it I should just accept that or try my luck on private party sale. I really just don't want to deal with that headache, plus if I sell before Thursday I don't have to renew the tag for that car.


----------



## Road Guy

So many similar cars in an area as big as Atlanta I don't know if would let that Carmax offer pass.... Over $500 bucks... Especially if you have close to. $100 in car tags probably due?


----------



## roadwreck

Before I went to CarMax I pretty much made up my mind that if they offered $3k or more then I'd take it on the spot. Less then that and I'd evaluate my options. The tag renewal is $77. Private party sale is estimated to be $3,500 and up. I dunno, I'll sleep on it.


----------



## mudpuppy

Around here at least, 10-year-old commuter cars are hard to come by. My co-worker recently wrecked his Civic and laments the fact that he can't find another 10-year-old 200k Civic anywhere. People tend to keep them until they die.

If you throw that Mazda up on Craigslist you might be surprised. I sold my Bronco the day I listed it, and I live in a town of only 35,000 people. OTOH yours is a manual so you're drastically limiting your potential buyer pool there.


----------



## roadwreck

I figure I don't have much to lose by listing it on craigslist for a few weeks. If it doesn't sell I can go back to CarMax and get another offer. I can't imagine it would drop much in value in their eyes over a few weeks.


----------



## Master slacker

So... if you got offered $2500 for a 10 year old car, I shouldn't expect much for a 23 year old, 114k mile, 5-shades of red, only one seat belt works Mercury, should I? damn


----------



## roadwreck

Master slacker said:


> So... if you got offered $2500 for a 10 year old car, I shouldn't expect much for a 23 year old, 114k mile, 5-shades of red, only one seat belt works Mercury, should I? damn


I dunno, maybe you could try marketing it as a "classic"


----------



## Master slacker

in a couple of years, i may get a "classic" or "antique" plate for the hell of it. Of course, if I did that, the plate would be worth more than the car...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^^^ I was going to ask what the stock ratios were in the RX7. Bee has 3.27's (3.45 in the automatics), and have been debating upgrading to the 3.91's (stock in the 1LE package). The biggest downside is that Bee is a daily driver and I can only imagine how much that will kill whatever fuel mileage I already get.
> 
> 
> 
> How deep is first gear on that car, and how tall is the tire?
Click to expand...

I have a 275/40/ZR20 rear tire on a 20x9 wheel.

Gear ratios: 1-6 &amp; Reverse:

3.01 2.07 1.43 1.00 0.84 0.57

3.28

It's the Tremec TR-6060. From what I've seen, it's a tank of a transmission.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tremec_TR-6060_transmission


----------



## Supe

I'm surprised it doesn't have a deeper first gear than that. Some of the T5's for example came with a 3.35 first, and that was with a 26" tire (granted, those were behind pretty anemic motors.) T56's were usually a 2.9X first, but again, with 26" tires like in 4th gen F Bodies.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I think there is just too much power to justify a deeper 1st gear. If you look at the ratios in the above link between different models, the 3.01 ratio for the Camaro is one of the deepest used. The Shelby GT500 Mustang uses a 2.66.

Before I did any performance mods to the engine, I could comfortably start in 2nd gear and ride that up to 65mph before redlining. After the mods, I could start in 3rd if I really wanted to, but I would need to be baby the throttle just a little.


----------



## Supe

Heck, I run a 2.83 first gear, and that was on the deep side. Rest of the trans is pretty close ratio, but the only time I'll ever use first gear is launching at the hill climbs...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Heck, I run a 2.83 first gear, and that was on the deep side. Rest of the trans is pretty close ratio, but* the only time I'll ever use first gear is launching *at the hill climbs...


A lot of the Camaro guys do the same thing.

My only real complaint with the gearing is that 5th gear (1st overdrive) is still too deep. There is very little drop in RPM going from 4 to 5, but there is too much going from 4 to 6. Gears 1-4 are for drag racing, maybe 5th is geared that way for longer straights on road courses. :dunno:


----------



## Supe

Got the motor pulled last night. Threads on timing cover and oil pan bolt holes were a disaster. Oil pump pickup had nearly a full tube of RTV in it. Bottom end looked OK. Probe forged pistons, 5140 Eagle rods (OK, but not great, good enough for naturally aspirated). Can't tell if crank is cast or forged, but again, naturally aspirated, good enough. Based on the amount of drilling and mallory metal that they used in the counterweights to balance it, it's probably an Eagle forged. They're notorious for that. Slight scuffing on the cylinder walls, but nothing major. Rear main seal was shot, and the asswipe also stripped out the oil pan stud that comes with the main seal retainer. Have a replacement coming from ebay. At least for the time being, its looking like I should just be able to replace the rear main seal and retainer, throw the new gaskets back on, fix the oil pan (it was hitting the engine cradle and has very nearly worn two holes right through the pan), and slap it back in.

Will have to do extensive firewall repair first, though. Numbnuts hacked it to bits because he couldn't get the necessary distributor clearance. Have to plate and weld it back up, but am also welding in an airbox inlet for a functional cowl induction setup.


----------



## Road Guy

RW you sell the car yet? A former scout of mine ( with a single mom, with one Autistic younger son) is looking for a cheap ride, You willing to do a goodwill case for $2K?


----------



## roadwreck

I still have the car, I actually haven't even put it up for sale yet.

I'm really not sure I can let it go for $2k even as a goodwill case. I really feel $3k is as low as I'd go on it. It's in great shape for a 10 year old car.

It's a manual too, is your friend going to want to deal with that in Atlanta?


----------



## Road Guy

send me the specifics, she is just looking for a decent car for her son, that is fairly cheap but works... if you would take $3K I will ask her..

My dad was going to GIVE away his old dodge truck to her but the thing sucks gas and the begrudgingly turned it down (my dad didnt want to take the 19 year old truck to florida with them)


----------



## Road Guy

or send me the craislist ad...


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> send me the specifics, she is just looking for a decent car for her son, that is fairly cheap but works... if you would take $3K I will ask her..
> 
> My dad was going to GIVE away his old dodge truck to her but the thing sucks gas and the begrudgingly turned it down (my dad didnt want to take the 19 year old truck to florida with them)


you can buy a lot of gas for $3k. Just sayin'


----------



## Road Guy

That's what I was trying to tell her!


----------



## roadwreck

There is no craigslist add yet. I took some photos of it this past weekend with the intent to post something on craigslist but never got around to it (see how much of a hurry I'm in to unload this thing?  ).

I'll see if I can get something uploaded tonight or tomorrow and forward it to you.

So this car is for her son? I'm assuming he doesn't have much experience with a manual then? I will say, this car has one of the most particular clutches I've ever driven. Once you get used to it then it's loads of fun, but people who aren't used to driving sticks have a difficult time with it.


----------



## roadwreck

I posted the car on craigslist yesterday morning and have had 11 people inquire about it already. Most wanting to come see it immediately. Is having them all show up at once to look at the care a bad idea? highest bidder takes the car?


----------



## Road Guy

Do you have them be at your house. I always met the Craigslist crazies at a Home Depot parking lot someplace so they would come back and chop my family into little pieces

And my friend finally got her ex-husband to help their son with the car . so he's a proud owner of a little Ford Ranger


----------



## Road Guy

And I had a funny Craigslist story . last year when I sold the jeep on craigslist the very first guy that came to look at it drove up from Macon but he wanted to shave several thousand off.

Obviously I declined

But when I was driving out to Colorado last August the same guy he called me , and this was at least four months after I sold the jeep , and asked if I still had it .

he was willing to pay the original price I don't know what was up with that guy.

It kind of creeped me out that he kept my phone number that long


----------



## Supe

I've done that before (long down time). Look for a project/fun car, test the waters, if you can't find anything else you like, go back to the original choice if it was a fair asking price.


----------



## Road Guy

But 4 months later?


----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> Do you have them be at your house. I always met the Craigslist crazies at a Home Depot parking lot someplace so they would come back and chop my family into little pieces
> 
> And my friend finally got her ex-husband to help their son with the car . so he's a proud owner of a little Ford Ranger


Glad your friend found a car. A little Ford Ranger is a good vehicle for a high schooler.

No, I don't have them meeting at my house. Several people have asked for my address though. I give them the address of a shopping center not far away. I figure that's where I'll meet them to show them the car.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> But 4 months later?




Yep. I had a guy call me every few months for two years asking if I was willing to sell a car that wasn't for sale at the time.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> But 4 months later?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep. I had a guy call me every few months for two years asking if I was willing to sell a car that wasn't for sale at the time.
Click to expand...

Depending the car, this is not all that uncommon. Guys drive by a driveway where there's a desirable classic just sitting under a cover or something that they don't want to miss the opportunity to buy. They ask the owner and get the "it's not for sale". Then they drive by one day and it's gone, because the owner decided to throw in the towel and get rid of it. It a fine line between stalking and just staying in touch so you get a shot if/when the owner wants to pull the trigger and let her go. Sometimes perseverance wins.


----------



## Supe

I missed out on a green Shelby GT350 some time ago for that reason. I used to walk past it every day. Older woman, deceased husband's car, finally decided to get rid of it. I'm pretty sure it sold for a few thousand and someone REALLY took advantage of her. It was that pale green color, and covered in about 1/4" of dust.


----------



## Road Guy

this was a clunker jeep posted on craigslist, nothing fancy.. I think the guy just thought I might have not sold it in 4 months since It had some rust on it.. Jut thought it was weird the dude called back for something there are literally hundred off for sale on craiglist at any given day....

I used to get asked to sell my boat all the time, until I deciced to sell it and that took many months...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I was cruising around just looking for cars and came across a really nice 1969 Dodge Charger. I stopped and took a quick look at the car (it was in the driveway). A couple minutes later, the owner of the car was outside talking about the car with me, some of the things done to it, some things still needing to be done, etc. After a while he finally mentioned that it wasn't for sale, I gave him my phone number in case he changed his mind and a couple months later he called. I didn't have the money, but he said he called me before listing it simply because he knew that I knew what he had.


----------



## roadwreck

So what's the standard procedure if you have multiple people wanting to see a vehicle you have for sale? I really have limited time to show this thing and I wasn't expecting to get this many people interested in the car. Is it poor form to have them all show up at the same time and let the highest bidder walk away with the car?


----------



## Road Guy

I always tried to go in order "first come first serve"....(after talking to them on the phone)


----------



## roadwreck

^^

That's really what I'd like to do too, unfortunately some of the people that called me first aren't available until the weekend. I've got multiple people that want to see it tomorrow evening, but I'd I'd feel bad if the first person bought it while someone else who wanted to see it was already on the way. It seems like it could be a clusterf**k to have multiple people show up at once. For now I only have one person scheduled for Thursday, one Friday and one Saturday. If anyone else wants to see it they'll have to wait until Sunday or later.


----------



## Road Guy

I think that also makes sense, I would usually call back the people in order but if someone could come earlier than thats just the way life works out...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

First come first serve, not first call.

First person at my door with the $ gets it. I would be up front with everyone that calls letting them know there are others interested and that despite being the first to call, the first one to show up will get dibs. It sucks for those with busy schedules who called first, but dealerships won't hold a car until the weekend because someone calls ahead unless there is a deposit of some sort...


----------



## MA_PE

I agree with dex. I had an internet deal with a guy 1000 miles away for a car. We emailed back and forth for a bit and I said where of I send a check. He stalled and them I called to see what's up, he said a guy came over with cash and it's gone. I was/am still annoyed but cash in hand talks. You'll never see these people again. First one tower your price takes it away. Done


----------



## Supe

Finally got my firewall patched up. Previous owner hacked it to hell to try to make the distributor fit. He cut it even down to the trans tunnel, so there was a nice opening right from behind the intake manifold, straight into the cabin. Now, the bottom is sealed, and the top is cut and a lip welded in which will seal directly to a cowl induction setup. Note that there is a separate metal box in the cabin interior where the cowl assembly goes in, so no holes feeding the interior, just two drain lines on the outer edges which run to the car's exterior. In other words, I didn't repair a little hole that won't stop fire and just replace it with a big one.


----------



## Supe

So I had welded up three cracks in my oil pan, one of which was a mystery. Bolted pan back up, rotate motor over by hand... THUNK. Mystery solved. Previous owner never checked for counterweight clearance. Decided he would rather let the crank do all the clearancing for him...

New pan blank should be here today. Will cut/notch/weld for adequate clearance, and put some oil drain and temperature fittings in there while I'm at it.


----------



## blybrook PE

^ hey Jimmy, do you hear a knock?

Jimmy - Its just the engine breaking in...


----------



## Supe

And it didn't just lightly kiss the pan... it wouldn't even rotate over.


----------



## blybrook PE

OUCH!


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> And it didn't just lightly kiss the pan... it wouldn't even rotate over.




You need a bigger starter and / or breaker bar...


----------



## Road Guy

Okay back to normal people's car problems 

When we moved out here I bought an 02 Tahoe cause I needed the 4wd and more room...

Stock rims look like shit.... I won't be buying new ones but I have tried like hell to clean these with no success? I'm thinking about using some brasso?

Any if you semi pro shade tree mechanics got any advice?

And yes I have rubbed the hell out if them with steel wool...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Chevy clear coated their rims for a while and once the clear coat is compromised there really isn't anything you can do aside from stripping the clear coat and re-applying.


----------



## Master slacker

Strip, polish, clear


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Chevy clear coated their rims for a while and once the clear coat is compromised there really isn't anything you can do aside from stripping the clear coat and re-applying.






This - amazing how many wheels I used to see destroyed by car washes that would use wheel cleaner before shining your tires.

Polishing those is a PITA. Clean, prep, paint with wheel paint. You'll have about $12 wrapped into the entire process.


----------



## Master slacker

Or Plastidip


----------



## Road Guy

I was thinking about just getting a little help from Mr. Krylon


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> I was thinking about just getting a little help from Mr. Krylon


Make sure you sand them before painting otherwise the paint will flake off in no time


----------



## Supe

Self etching primer goes a long way. Use a good degreaser when prepping, too.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

RG's new wheels:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> I was thinking about just getting a little help from Mr. Krylon


You could always use plasti-dip. Spray cans are about $5 each and you would only need a couple to do all 4 wheels.


----------



## Road Guy

LOL - I will probably just wait..

Before next snow season I am saving to get new tires and a 1" lift on my Tahoe. It's that puke ugly hunter green color. so my plan was just to make it look a little redneck with a lift and big tires but it does needs more clearance.. Maybe If I look around I can find just some cheap blackout rims on craigslist...

I was happy to see they have a 4 Wheel Parts store here, the one back home was always very solid to deal with. but who knows about this one..

It (the tahoe) did pretty well driving to the ski resorts with 4WD and almost bald tires, defin need some more grip as I was white nuckled a couple of times (on the downgrade coming out of the Ike Tunnell for those that have driven it)

Im trying to resit the urge to fil it with stickers like all the other CO people do on their beat up SUV's..


----------



## Master slacker

Dexman PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about just getting a little help from Mr. Krylon
> 
> 
> 
> You could always use plasti-dip.
Click to expand...



What a GREAT idea!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I plasti-dipped my side mirrors last night. I like how they turned out.


----------



## snickerd3

were they all yellow before? what is the point of plasti-dipping? just for looks or is there durability added


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Yes. They were yellow before, I did it mostly for looks, but it does help with durability.

I've seen some guys spray this on the front of their show cars before taking them on long roadtrips to prevent rock chips and bug damage.


----------



## snickerd3

^is it removable?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Yep, it peels right off.

I did it mostly to see if I would like how it looked. If I did, I would eventually take it into the shop and have it painted. If I didn't, I would simply peel it off and move on.


----------



## jeb6294

snickerd3 said:


> were they all yellow before? what is the point of plasti-dipping? just for looks or is there durability added


Quick easy way to "paint" stuff. Supposed to last a couple years and when you're done it peels off.


----------



## envirotex

Mr. Tex' next project...he wants to turn it into a shop truck. What do you think?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's a Ford. SMH.


----------



## envirotex

Well, of course it's a Ford. You wouldn't find a Chevy that was still running (at least not with its original engine)...


----------



## MA_PE

cool. Is it packing a 460?

How close to the Mexican border are you Tex. You could make some extra cash shuttling illegals.


----------



## envirotex

351 and we are close to I-35, but we'd have to put a camper on it...


----------



## jglavin PE

Does anyone here 4-wheel?

I keep meaning to go find trails around Colorado, but never have the time.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I don't quite have the clearance...


----------



## Road Guy

Just gotta get a lift on my Tahoe and ill be ready to go.... And new tires.....


----------



## jglavin PE

I did breakneck pass in my long wheelbase tacoma with bald "P" tires...

Just takes a little courage


----------



## jglavin PE

Of course I had to turn around at some point when the going got a little too rough, but I did make it up to like 12,000 feet!


----------



## MA_PE

So I joined this group thing called _Banovsky's Car of the Day _and they send you a daily email focusing on some strange car. I thought today's was kind of interesting and figured I'd share. In all it's glory...the Quasar Unipower



https://us-mg5.mail.yahoo.com/neo/launch?.rand=cjrjubdbk1ups


----------



## snickerd3

the two girls look like they are Bob Barker girls from The Price is Right


----------



## MA_PE

snickerd3 said:


> the two girls look like they are Bob Barker girls from The Price is Right


As Austin Powers would say "Yeah, baby!"


----------



## MetsFan

Dexman PE said:


> I plasti-dipped my side mirrors last night. I like how they turned out.




How many coats did you use? I'm thinking of plasti-dipping the chrome grille on my car. I was going to do it last year, but never got around to it.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MetsFan said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I plasti-dipped my side mirrors last night. I like how they turned out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many coats did you use? I'm thinking of plasti-dipping the chrome grille on my car. I was going to do it last year, but never got around to it.
Click to expand...

At least 4. Make sure the last one is completely dry before you remove the tape around the outside.


----------



## Supe

Ordered my Wilwood brakes for the front and rear of the Mazda. That was a pricey endeavor, but hey, at least I'll be able to slow down from 150 mph+?


----------



## snickerd3

my dad has a 2010 jeep patriot 4x4. He went to go look for new tires and was told both lower ball joints were bad. to the point they recommended not driving until fixed. the joints went bad before the first set of tires....so sad


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Ordered my Wilwood brakes for the front and rear of the Mazda. That was a pricey endeavor, but hey, at least I'll be able to slow down from 150 mph+?


I'm looking to upgrade mine to something more auto-x friendly. The entire kit is ~$1300 for new rotors (all 4 corners), new pads, stainless brake lines, and new front calipers (upgrade from 4-piston to 6-piston). It's the setup from the CTS-V.


----------



## Supe

Damn, that's cheap. Mine is roughly double that. Calipers are four piston Superlites, but they're big pistons, and are only slowing down 2600 lbs or so. I lose the parking brake too, but WGAF. I'm gaining nearly 3 inches of rotor diameter, and about 3/4" of rotor thickness.


----------



## jglavin PE

It's nice to hear that GM parts are still somewhat interchangeable. I remember my high school days helping my friend tinker with his 87 Camaro RS (with the anemic 305). The funniest "mod" we did was to fashion somewhat of an open air intake by using a filter cover from a small GM V6, which fit right over the outer lip of the V8 air filter, leaving a ~2-inch opening all around between the pan and the filter. Probably did nothing, but boy did it sound good!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Damn, that's cheap. Mine is roughly double that. Calipers are four piston Superlites, but they're big pistons, and are only slowing down 2600 lbs or so. I lose the parking brake too, but WGAF. I'm gaining nearly 3 inches of rotor diameter, and about 3/4" of rotor thickness.


I could probably double the price if I went with two-piece ZL1 front rotors, replaced the rear calipers, and went with some higher-end pads. I just wanted to get the "framework" in place for when I am really putting some serious power down in a couple years. I'd like to get my car over the 700rwhp mark, and in a 4000lb car I need some serious stopping power. Most of the suspension stuff will be done within the next month or so (sway bars, bushings, trailing arms, toe rods), all that's left in the suspension is a set of good coilovers (probably run ~$2k).


----------



## Supe

Ever been in a car with 700 to the wheels? That is a shitload of power at any weight, and downright dangerous on street tires.

I damn near pulled the trigger on a twin turbo setup for the RX7 that could have pushed 1100 hp or so on E85, and then thought to myself, what the f*ck am I doing? This car is an absolute death trap with 450ish HP, so I will likely go the much easier to race/maintain route of a naturally aspirated setup making 600+ and call it a day.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Ever been in a car with 700 to the wheels? That is a shitload of power at any weight, and downright dangerous on street tires.
> 
> I damn near pulled the trigger on a twin turbo setup for the RX7 that could have pushed 1100 hp or so on E85, and then thought to myself, what the f*ck am I doing? This car is an absolute death trap with 450ish HP, so I will likely go the much easier to race/maintain route of a naturally aspirated setup making 600+ and call it a day.


I have. One of my friends in the local Camaro Club is putting down ~750rwhp. Good thing they make tires that work at those levels...

June 2014 Issue of GM HighTech Performance magazine:


----------



## Supe

They do, but only from a roll, and not on the street!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

He has slicks for the 1/4 mile, another set-up just for auto-x, and a 3rd set for driving around. I believe he starts in 2nd gear when driving around town.

For the amount of money he has on his car, he could have bought two houses in mudpuppy's neighborhood...


----------



## Supe

I'm beginning to know the feeling, and this car isn't my first rodeo...


----------



## Road Guy

Does a timing belt make a Light squeaking noise before it breaks?


----------



## matt267 PE

Road Guy said:


> Does a timing belt make a Light squeaking noise before it breaks?


I don't think timing belts squeak. The squeaking may be from your serpentine belt.

But I guess it could be the timing belt tensioner? If it's not time to replace the timing belt, changing the serpentine belt may stop the noise.


----------



## Road Guy

I just had my power steering pump replaced last week I wonder if they loosened it or something?


----------



## Road Guy

I'll be glad when I get finally moved into the new house and have access to all my tools so I can do basic repairs myself


----------



## NJmike PE

matt267 said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does a timing belt make a Light squeaking noise before it breaks?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think timing belts squeak. The squeaking may be from your serpentine belt.
> 
> But I guess it could be the timing belt tensioner? If it's not time to replace the timing belt, changing the serpentine belt may stop the noise.
Click to expand...

my experience, no. no noise, no early warning. It just breaks. Depending on the type of car/engine that you have (interference motor especially), a preemptive replacement of the TB will save you an ass load of money. Mine broke two years ago but I was one of the lucky ones. It didn't do any damage to my top end engine. 99% of the thyme it does.


----------



## matt267 PE

Road Guy said:


> I just had my power steering pump replaced last week I wonder if they loosened it or something?


I think the power steering is tied to the serpentine belt. It could be minor misalignment between the new pump's pulley and the belt.

My wife preemptively changed the TB on her old car, only to have the TB tensioner fail the next month while she was 500 miles from home. The mechanic had to replace a few valves and remachine parts of the engine at no cost to us.

Getting her and the car home was a different story.


----------



## Road Guy

I think I will just swing it by that same shop this afternoon and have them take a look see...thanks!


----------



## MA_PE

timing belts are tooted belts, they really can't slip and squeak as your timing will then be off. TBs are one of those maintenance items you really don't want to push beyond the manufacturer's recommended service intervals.


----------



## NJmike PE

MA_PE said:


> timing belts are tooted belts, they really can't slip and squeak as your timing will then be off. * TBs are one of those maintenance items you really don't want to push beyond the manufacturer's recommended service intervals.*


This!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I see a lot of guys in the Camaro world upgrade to timing chains when doing anything to the engine. It's usually a $200-$300 upcharge to whatever else they are doing (typically replacing the cam), but it's well worth the money.


----------



## matt267 PE

wife's new car has a timing chain.


----------



## MA_PE

I've never known anyone to lose a timing chain in a daily driver. timing belts on the other hand wear out an require replacement.


----------



## Supe

I'm a big fan of timing chains opposed to belts. One of the big initial pushes towards belts was the notion that chains were imparting bad harmonics into the valvetrain. Personally, I think its a load of BS, and that even if there were harmonics being introduced by a chain, I'd rather have those than my pistons slamming into the valves on an interference fit motor.


----------



## Road Guy

its an 02 Tahoe and appears to have a internal timing chain not a belt, hopefully the F'tards just didnt do somethign 100% when they installed the power stearing pump..


----------



## MA_PE

^absolutely!

Correct me if I'm wrong but most (if not all) of the US designed motors are chains. the Europeans/Japanese are the ones that like the belts.


----------



## Road Guy

I think I had a Ford Taurus a while back that was a timing belt? I cant remember, I know I have only owned one foreign car (the wifes prius) and I have replaced 1 timing belt, it was either in the taurus or the 84 ford ranger?

I am trying to keep the tahoe to the "book" as far as replacements and maintenance. I need it to last at least 4 more years..its old but only has 103,000 miles on it, but we need the space to haul everyone around...


----------



## matt267 PE

MA_PE said:


> ^absolutely!
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but most (if not all) of the US designed motors are chains. the Europeans/Japanese are the ones that like the belts.


I'm not sure about US or European cars, but my 2005 Corolla and my wife's 2014 Nisan both have timing chains. Her former car, 2006 Mitsubishi, had a timing belt.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Chevy LS3 engine with a chain for me, although it's been reported some of the early 2010's had bad tensioners...


----------



## MA_PE

I'm sure there were/are "US" cars running a timing belt, but I believe their powerplants are from the foreign alliances (ford w/ mazda engine, chevy w/ Toyota engine, etc.)


----------



## Road Guy

even though I hated the durango, it gave me 200,000 miles with really zero mecahnical problems, never changed a single belt....RIP- whever you are you 2WD vehicle....


----------



## envirotex

Now you can build your own Tesla...

http://www.zdnet.com/elon-musk-to-world-all-our-patents-belong-to-you-7000030491/


----------



## Master slacker

Dexman PE said:


> Chevy LS3 engine with a chain for me, although it's been reported some of the early 2010's had bad tensioners...




you misspelled "ignition failures"

http://jalopnik.com/gm-just-recalled-all-the-camaros-because-of-possible-ig-1590389786


----------



## MA_PE

what a load of carp. The GM safety police are now in panic CYA mode.

My neighbor has a 201 HHR. He's a salesman and he drives all over creation. The repair part is on back-order at the local Chevy dealer. He went down and said he felt "unsafe" driving the car so they gave him a new Buick rental car until the part comes in. He's had it for a week and a half so far. What a freakin scam...and a waste of money.


----------



## Master slacker




----------



## Road Guy

How much money does GM owe the US Taxpayer again?


----------



## MA_PE

I believe the loan has been repaid or forgiven. Thanks to Obama.


----------



## Master slacker

I don't know.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

MA_PE said:


> what a load of carp. The GM safety police are now in panic CYA mode.
> 
> My neighbor has a 201 HHR. He's a salesman and he drives all over creation. The repair part is on back-order at the local Chevy dealer. He went down and said he felt "unsafe" driving the car so they gave him a new Buick rental car until the part comes in. He's had it for a week and a half so far. What a freakin scam...and a waste of money.


I have noticed a ton of lawyer commercials on TV

looking for people to sue GM.


----------



## Road Guy

Saw these bad boys in the parking garage at work today.....


----------



## MA_PE

So it looks like they're making lemonade out of lemons at the Corvette museum

http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2014/06/25/corvette-museum-likely-to-keep-part-sinkhole/


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Does a timing belt make a Light squeaking noise before it breaks?


What Matt said. I'm guessing they probably put a new belt on when they replaced the pump. My Dodge Ram had a pretty bad chirp from the first time I test drove it which the sales guy said they would fix. I told them the serpentine belt was out of alignment. They said it was a bad belt so they replaced it. Still chirped. I told them the serpentine belt was out of alignment. They said it was a bad pulley so they replaced it and it still chirped. I told them the serpentine belt was out of alignment. They said it was the tensioner so they replaced it and it kept chirping. I told them the serpentine belt was out of alignment. They finally checked the pulleys and found out the PS pulley was a little off. They fixed that and it's been quiet ever since.

Take it back and tell them to align the pulley on the new pump.


----------



## MA_PE

not to mention that timing belts are usually toothed belts because the engine timing really cant tolerate any slippage ans still run right. They just up and fail with time which is why it's crucial to change them out at the recommended interval. Any manuf that sells a car with an interferenc motor and a timing belt is a douchebag IMHO. But I'm sure they're out there.


----------



## Exengineer

My car has what is called an "engine toothed belt" that is recommended to be changed at 120,000 km or 8 years, whichever comes first. It was done in 2011. I have had a timing belt failure once many years ago in a Mercury Lynx but no engine damage occurred, everything stopped including the valves and pistons.


----------



## Road Guy

So I never updated...

Took the car back and they said the pulley was also broken so they replaces that an said for the "hassle" of them

Not fixing it right first time they pit on a new free serpentine drive belt...

Was fine for about two weeks now it squeaks noisier than it did before?

I've got to get some new tires soon so I am just going to get it looked at at 4-wheel drive parts... They were pretty good people back home...(when I put the new tires on)....


----------



## mudpuppy

MA_PE said:


> not to mention that timing belts are usually toothed belts because the engine timing really cant tolerate any slippage ans still run right. They just up and fail with time which is why it's crucial to change them out at the recommended interval. Any manuf that sells a car with an interferenc motor and a timing belt is a douchebag IMHO. But I'm sure they're out there.




Add GM/Daewoo to the douchebag list, for my Aveo. Recommended timing belt replacement is 60k miles and I'm at 58k, so I'd better start looking into that.


----------



## envirotex

So the Land Cruiser needs leaf springs, we got new tires and now the fenders are rubbing...can't decide whether or not to go with new springs or used springs for the half price.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Was fine for about two weeks now it squeaks noisier than it did before?


Sounds identical to mine. It would be quiet for a couple days before coming back with a vengeance. If they only replaced the pulley and didn't align it then I'd put my money on that.


----------



## blybrook PE

envirotex said:


> So the Land Cruiser needs leaf springs, we got new tires and now the fenders are rubbing...can't decide whether or not to go with new springs or used springs for the half price.


Get new if you intend to run the vehicle into the ground. Used will wear out faster and you'll have to repair them again.


----------



## envirotex

Just realized I've never posted a pic of the LC...




Tex Jr. ran it through a puddle...This was before the new tires.


----------



## blybrook PE

^ even with that photo, I'd go with new. Dont want to blow out the suspension too soon; especially with the puddle jumping going on!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Phone conversation:

Telemarketer: Hi this is ____ from your auto warranty company, am I speaking with Dex?

Dex: Yes.

TM: I am just calling to check on your Camaro. Can you tell me approximately how many miles you currently have on it?

Dex: Do you want the mileage before or after I put the supercharger on it?

TM: *click*


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I suspect I'll eventually be using that same line regarding my truck.


----------



## blybrook PE

Had one similar to that Dex, although they woke me up on a Saturday at 5am (NOT a good way to start).

I asked what it would cost to get a warranty on my plow truck ('74 IH Scout). They hung up after they confirmed the year with me.


----------



## DVINNY

1968 Camaro Convertible

327 Engine

4 barrel, dual exhaust

(My Profile pic)

Other vehicles on the premises:

2004 Trailblazer EXT V8 (ole' faithful)

2007 Volvo XC90 V8 (Wife's)

2015 Tahoe (work provided)


----------



## DVINNY

Engine bay


----------



## Supe

I'm in awe by the sheer lack of shit in the engine bay. I've been racing too long. Good looking car, I don't see too many with a white top.


----------



## DVINNY

I replaced all kinds of electrical stuff over the last month, starter, new HEI distributor, new ignition switch, new wiring, new battery, all because I've been having electrical gremlins for a while. None of those things solved the problem.

I finally decided to take the junction box off the firewall and unbolt it from the fuse box on the inside of the firewall. Once I did, all the connectors inside it were green and corroded. I sprayed the electrical cleaner all over them multiple times and cleaned it all up, put it together, and the thing runs like a champ.

I'll try the really simple shit first next time.


----------



## Road Guy

[SIZE=medium]Man I hate to admit this……. J[/SIZE] we rented a minivan (Town &amp; Country something or other) for our vacation (we drove around 1700 miles in it) not sure if I just have never owned a car with all the bells and whistles (DVD player, USB ports, electrical outlets, 200 cup holders, sat radio built in, etc) but that vehicle made getting around with 5 people a hell of a lot easier than I think my Tahoe would have (even though the Tahoe has more room) but it just felt like it was a bigger vehicle( must be the 2[SIZE=small]nd[/SIZE] row bucket seats) . I don’t know if I could ever bring myself to own one, but for a vacation / rental need I would definitely rent one again….

I wish my tahoe had the 2nd row bucket seats versus the 60-40 bench seat- makes it a PIA for whomever has to get in the 3rd row.....


----------



## NJmike PE

Road Guy said:


> [SIZE=medium]Man I hate to admit this……. J[/SIZE] we rented a minivan (Town &amp; Country something or other) for our vacation (we drove around 1700 miles in it) not sure if I just have never owned a car with all the bells and whistles (DVD player, USB ports, electrical outlets, 200 cup holders, sat radio built in, etc) but that vehicle made getting around with 5 people a hell of a lot easier than I think my Tahoe would have (even though the Tahoe has more room) but it just felt like it was a bigger vehicle( must be the 2[SIZE=small]nd[/SIZE] row bucket seats) . I don’t know if I could ever bring myself to own one, but for a vacation / rental need I would definitely rent one again….
> 
> I wish my tahoe had the 2nd row bucket seats versus the 60-40 bench seat- makes it a PIA for whomever has to get in the 3rd row.....


I've been torn over this. I hate, hate, *HATE*, the concept of owning one, but recently I was in a friends and I felt the same way. Currently I have a 12 yr old Xterra and a 9 yr old Ford Escape which both not ideal for carting around three small kids and their parents. When I say the kids are elbow to elbow in their car seats, I ain't kidding. Those vehicles offer plenty of room... and ridicule from my friends.


----------



## Supe

Sad but true - pets, kids, gear, you name it, all seems to be easier in a mini van. Hell, I once drove one from Columbus, OH back to CT with a chevy smallblock loaded through the side door! Still, I don't think I could ever bring myself to own one, unless it was the GF's car.


----------



## knight1fox3

We went with a crossover since neither of us want to drive a mini-van. Still has all the same bells and whistles. Kid &amp; pet friendly too.


----------



## Road Guy

Those are good for basically two kids (which I recommend stopping at). But all suv's are pretty worthless for 5 people +.. Based on my experience.....

But where I live now 4wd is basically mandatory (for skiing and such) and we like the extra ground clearance of the big SUV also....

I figure I have 3-4 years when one kid will be away at college (or the circus) and I can get a smaller SUV with some bells and whistles....


----------



## NJmike PE

Road Guy said:


> Those are good for basically two kids (which I recommend stopping at). But all suv's are pretty worthless for 5 people +.. Based on my experience.....




I could have used this advise a wee bit earlier...


----------



## Road Guy

I had to keep telling the rabits two only two......


----------



## Lumber Jim

I am now the proud spouse of a minivan owner... (Town and Country)

I once said "I will never own a minivan" but the recent addition to our family changed the way that we had to approach transportation. After all of the shopping and test driving that we did (BTW - ALL SUVs were terrible for installing 2 car seats and an infant rearward facing car seat) I had to swallow my pride and concede that we needed the minivan. Since the purchase, I have had to try to regain some of my pride by racing from stoplight to stoplight on numerous occasions. I have found that the 285 HP v6 is quite nimble relative to its look. (Priuses, trucks, and most SUVs beware!)

All in all though it's really not that bad. Now that we own one we wish we would have made the switch sooner. The bells and whistles are nice. The older two kids can't fight over the top of the infant like they did in the car. The stow and go seating is awesome. I can open the 2 sliding doors and the back hatch with my key fob. 6 adults fit comfortably when needed for consolidating vehicles on road trips. Storage for toys and other kid essentials is great. The price compared to an SUV allowed us to get into a model that was newer by 2 -3 years. Insurance is cheap. Brakes are really good. Maneuverability is good (there is a bit of side roll but not as bad as you would think). I could go on and on...

I still have my truck and motorcycle and won't give those up any time soon so I still have that when I need to prove to myself that my manhood hasn't faded into oblivion...

Have I sold any of you on it yet?


----------



## snickerd3

mr snicks work car is a minivan. It is convienent but I don't like driving it. I like my pilot.


----------



## NJmike PE

Lumber Jim said:


> The older two kids can't fight over the top of the infant like they did in the car.


This is the major problem that we are having. If I had the $$ I would pull the trigger now, but unfort. I have to wait until I a) get a better paying job 2) get next years tax return (sorry, I know the topic of this is a sore spot in other threads) iii) am given my inhertiance or all of the above.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

F*ck minivans. That is all.


----------



## engineergurl

Dexman PE said:


> F*ck minivans. That is all.




more room in the back of a minivan than a sports car... bet it would be more comfortable to stretch out and play games in...


----------



## csb

We have rented minivans for trips before and it they are so nice! We only have one kid, but there's plenty of times where I think, "Man, if I had a minivan..." We have a Grand Caravan for work and you can get a giant amount of stuff in one.

Had to replace the brakes and rotors on my 2006 Escape today. I keep telling myself that it's still cheaper than having a car payment, but ouch.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

engineergurl said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> F*ck minivans. That is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more room in the back of a minivan than a sports car... bet it would be more comfortable to stretch out and play games in...
Click to expand...

A blanket fits quite nicely in the trunk of the car and unfolds to create a much better place to stretch out under the stars...


----------



## Lumber Jim

engineergurl said:


> Dexman PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> F*ck minivans. That is all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more room in the back of a minivan than a sports car... bet it would be more comfortable to stretch out and play games in...
Click to expand...



Like I said, the stow and go seating is awesome.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> [SIZE=medium]Man I hate to admit this……. J[/SIZE] we rented a minivan (Town &amp; Country something or other) for our vacation (we drove around 1700 miles in it) not sure if I just have never owned a car with all the bells and whistles (DVD player, USB ports, electrical outlets, 200 cup holders, sat radio built in, etc) but that vehicle made getting around with 5 people a hell of a lot easier than I think my Tahoe would have (even though the Tahoe has more room) but it just felt like it was a bigger vehicle( must be the 2[SIZE=small]nd[/SIZE] row bucket seats) . I don’t know if I could ever bring myself to own one, but for a vacation / rental need I would definitely rent one again….
> 
> I wish my tahoe had the 2nd row bucket seats versus the 60-40 bench seat- makes it a PIA for whomever has to get in the 3rd row.....




We always rent for long road trips...the best part is handing the keys back to the rental guy after you've been driving it around for a week with your kids trashing out the back...


----------



## MetsFan

csb said:


> We have rented minivans for trips before and it they are so nice! We only have one kid, but there's plenty of times where I think, "Man, if I had a minivan..." We have a Grand Caravan for work and you can get a giant amount of stuff in one.
> 
> Had to replace the brakes and rotors on my 2006 Escape today. I keep telling myself that it's still cheaper than having a car payment, but ouch.




I hear you, I just paid $300 for the shop to reprogram my car. All they did was push a couple of buttons!


----------



## Road Guy

if you get the pads done on time you can usually avoid the rotars (but brakes and rotors are pretty cheap and fairly easily to install yourself) - dont you have a husband?

But I have been quilty in the past of letting the pads go and buying new rotors- now I just put on new pads every year.. take a few hours but its one of the best things you can learn to do for a car that will save you money.. its a crime what people charge for them.....

fuck this just reminded me that I sold my hydraulic jack when I moved that I used to use to change said brakes


----------



## DVINNY

csb said:


> We have rented minivans for trips before and it they are so nice! We only have one kid, but there's plenty of times where I think, "Man, if I had a minivan..." We have a Grand Caravan for work and you can get a giant amount of stuff in one.
> 
> Had to replace the brakes and rotors on my 2006 Escape today. I keep telling myself that it's still cheaper than having a car payment, but ouch.




I'm assuming that you had a shop do it? That does get pricey. The first time pays for itself for you to buy a nice jack, electric impact wrench and whatever specialty tool you may (or may not) need to get the caliper off.

Is an easy job to do really.


----------



## csb

How often do brakes need to be replaced?


----------



## Road Guy

if you get your tires rotated you can ask the folks who do that to look at the brake pads when they remove the tires, I generally replace them when they have about 1/3 of the pad left, saves all that work on the rotors and such...(assuming you have disc brakes and not drums)


----------



## MA_PE

Pad life depends on how hard you ride the brakes. IMHO should be about 30k miles, but some folks get much less


----------



## Road Guy

Dex gets around 5k miles I imagine


----------



## blybrook PE

I've had pads last 10k, others 80k. All depends on the vehicle and how you drive.

The 10k pads were not the riveted type and I have a feeling thats one main reason they failed. Separation is never a good thing.


----------



## csb

I had about 80k on these brakes.

Good call on avoiding rotor work.


----------



## NJmike PE

I did front brakes on my xterra last summer at my buddies house. I knew I had worn them down a bit, but realized exactly how much on the way there. I pulled out onto the highway and the remnants of my pads fell out and I began braking with the caliper piston. It was only for 10 minutes but it was enough to begin score the piston, but not enough to require it to be replaced. I think I got somewhere around 30-40k on them.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> Dex gets around 5k miles I imagine


You assume I slow down. I just passed 51k on my factory pads thank you very much.

I am shopping for new pads though and am debating upgrading to a larger 6-piston caliper for the front.


----------



## mudpuppy

MA_PE said:


> Pad life depends on how hard you ride the brakes. IMHO should be about 30k miles, but some folks get much less




Good grief 30k? Or less?? I shoot for around 80k. On the other hand, I avoid big cities that have traffic where I have to stop a lot.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Downshifting is your friend.


----------



## snickerd3

mudpuppy said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pad life depends on how hard you ride the brakes. IMHO should be about 30k miles, but some folks get much less
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good grief 30k? Or less?? I shoot for around 80k. On the other hand, I avoid big cities that have traffic where I have to stop a lot.
Click to expand...

This!


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dex gets around 5k miles I imagine
> 
> 
> 
> You assume I slow down. I just passed 51k on my factory pads thank you very much.
> 
> I am shopping for new pads though and am debating upgrading to a larger 6-piston caliper for the front.
Click to expand...



You too can experience the absurd pricing of Wilwood pads!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I was looking at the Hawk pads, but there seems to be quite a few complaints of them squeaking. Surprisingly, the stock pads seem to be the best overall option.


----------



## Supe

Hawk HPS and HP+ are decent street pads. Stay away from anything EBC makes other than the Yellow Stuff pads.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The HP+ ones are the ones with the most squeaking complaints. I think most of the problems stem from the DIYers not doing it properly though.


----------



## Supe

It's a frickin' performance pad. If you want quiet brakes, don't buy performance pads!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

But I don't want them to sound like they need to be replaced from the very beginning.


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> But I don't want them to sound like they need to be replaced from the very beginning.




If they're grinding and squealing, that means they're working!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Installed a bunch new rear suspension parts over the holiday weekend. Unfortunately something isn't seated properly or something is loose because it has developed some bad clunky noises at low speeds. Really makes me hesitant to really test out what the car can do knowing something isn't sitting right. A couple noises seemed to arise after getting the necessary alignment done. I used a cheater bar to make sure everything was tight, maybe it's just the fact that its the result of a really stiff suspension on a car with 50k+ miles.

I really hate that I don't have a lift...


----------



## Supe

What did you replace? What bushing types? Did you torque fasteners on the ground (with suspension loaded), or on jack stands?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Sway bars &amp; endlinks - front and rear

Trailing arms (spherical bearings on one end, urethane bushings on the other

Rear toe links (spherical bearings instead of bushings)

Springs

rear upper control arm bushings (urethane)

solid aluminum subframe bushings

When I installed it, everything was tightened on jackstands (hanging suspension), but I had the shop "time" the bushings before doing the alignment (unbind all of the bushings).


----------



## Supe

Jack the car up, let the suspension droop, then grab the wheel and push in and out. See if there is any movement or clunking noise (this should rule out the toe links). Also check that the swaybar isn't hitting the floor board, etc. when when the suspension is compressed. From there, I would just start going throught the bolts one-by-one. Especially when you've got heims, all it takes is one remotely loose nut to get a hard clunking noise.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

At first I thought it was the end links because the bolt holes are just a gnat's ass bigger than the bolts and the clunk was the bar shifting, but I installed a metal spacer to fill the gap (a very short piece of copper pipe that fits around the bolt and inside the hole).

I'll be heading over to the shop that did the alignment in a couple hours to drive around with them to see if they can help diagnose.


----------



## Supe

Any update on the noise?

Question - 4 door, RWD, manual transmission, $20kish or less used.

Do I have any real options other than the Pontiac G8? M3/M5 options are going to be incredibly cost-prohibitive to maintain for a DD.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> Any update on the noise?
> 
> Question - 4 door, RWD, manual transmission, $20kish or less used.
> 
> Do I have any real options other than the Pontiac G8? M3/M5 options are going to be incredibly cost-prohibitive to maintain for a DD.


Cadillac CTS-V?


----------



## Porter_

Supe said:


> Any update on the noise?
> 
> Question - 4 door, RWD, manual transmission, $20kish or less used.
> 
> Do I have any real options other than the Pontiac G8? M3/M5 options are going to be incredibly cost-prohibitive to maintain for a DD.




i was going to suggest a Chrysler 300 SRT8 but i don't think they're available with a MT. could be a fun option though if you can sacrifice your MT requirement.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Any update on the noise?
> 
> Question - 4 door, RWD, manual transmission, $20kish or less used.
> 
> Do I have any real options other than the Pontiac G8? M3/M5 options are going to be incredibly cost-prohibitive to maintain for a DD.


At the shop we discovered it was the trailing arm. Thing was moving up to 1/8" when we were shaking the car, so we thought it was the metal ferrule being the wrong size. Contacted the manufacturer and they sent a replacement at no cost. After taking out the original and comparing it to the new one, they were identical. Turned out to be one of the bolts was the wrong size. 3 of the bolts appeared to be the same, so when I reassembled everything I just grabbed one and kept going. Two of them were identical, but the 3rd was a gnat's ass bigger and was for this particular spot. I honestly wouldn't have noticed unless I had checked the stamp on the bolt head. The one on the driver's side was correct, so I just matched the passenger layout to it and once I swapped them around, no problem.

On the car front, pretty much any 3-series BMW (doesn't have to be an M3, although you can find some good used M3's for that range that are about 10 years old). The only Pontiac G8's that were manual transmissions were the GXP versions and I doubt you will find any worth a damn for under $30k. The base G8 and the GT were only available as an auto (available paddle shifters though).

Other options:

Caddy CTS (or maybe an older CTS-V)

Infinity G37 (awesome car)

Mercedes C300

Lexus IS250 or IS350

The CTS is essentially a 4-door Camaro. The Infinity and Lexus options are great cars and are relatively easy to maintain. Mercedes will be expensive as hell like the BMW's (or any other German car), but if maintained will run forever too.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE said:


> Other options:
> 
> Infinity G37 (awesome car)
> 
> The Infinity and Lexus options are great cars and are relatively easy to maintain.


lusone: Love my G35. Best car I have ever owned. I plan to get a newer version or even the G37 for my next car. Wife has the FX-35 crossover and loves that as well. Great vehicles IMO.


----------



## MetsFan

If you're going for a 3, don't get a 335. It's an awesome car, just painful to own out of warranty. The 328 has been great for me though. I've had my 2007 for five years now and haven't had any major issues besides water pump/t-stat in 65K miles.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's been my experience that German cars are about 50% more expensive to maintain than other similarly equipped vehicles. Oil changes, brakes, routine maintenance is all more expensive.


----------



## Supe

Other options:

Caddy CTS (or maybe an older CTS-V) - The ones I can afford (first gen LS motors) have all been beaten to death.

Infinity G37 (awesome car) - Haven't looked yet, will investigate.

Mercedes C300 - High maintenance, very few manual trans versions out there, was NOT impressed with the interiors on these.

Lexus IS250 or IS350 - Haven't looked into these, but have always not view Lexus options as performance cars. Not too big on the looks of the older models, new ones are OK-ish.

MetsFan: Surprised to hear such a discrepancy between the 33X series and the 32X series. I wonder why?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Out of those options, you're best two would be the Infinity or the Lexus. Both also have AWD options that don't compromise performance.


----------



## Supe

I also didn't think the IS350 came with a manual?


----------



## MetsFan

Dexman PE said:


> It's been my experience that German cars are about 50% more expensive to maintain than other similarly equipped vehicles. Oil changes, brakes, routine maintenance is all more expensive.




Yeah, definitely more than a Japanese car, but she still puts a smile on my face on the twisties 



Supe said:


> Other options:
> 
> Caddy CTS (or maybe an older CTS-V) - The ones I can afford (first gen LS motors) have all been beaten to death.
> 
> Infinity G37 (awesome car) - Haven't looked yet, will investigate.
> 
> Mercedes C300 - High maintenance, very few manual trans versions out there, was NOT impressed with the interiors on these.
> 
> Lexus IS250 or IS350 - Haven't looked into these, but have always not view Lexus options as performance cars. Not too big on the looks of the older models, new ones are OK-ish.
> 
> MetsFan: Surprised to hear such a discrepancy between the 33X series and the 32X series. I wonder why?




A lot of it was because of the high pressure fuel pump, which they ended up having to extend the warranty for. The twin turbo/dual-scroll turbo probably doesn't help either.

The G37 is a great car. My friend has one and has been really happy with it after 3 years of ownership. The IS350 is a beast numbers-wise, but I haven't had the pleasure of driving one.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> I also didn't think the IS350 came with a manual?


Nope, I guess it does not. Even the F is an automatic.


----------



## Supe

Apparently a sedan G37 with a manual trans is also a needle-in-a-haystack find. Coupes all day long, but can't find crap with 4 doors.


----------



## MetsFan

Wow, didn't think they would be so rare. Here's one, but it's a bit over 20k and it's in Oregon

http://www.myg37.com/forums/gs-fs/259516-2011-g37s-sedan-6mt-rwd-black-obsidian-graphite-27-200-miles.html


----------



## Supe

Ugh. My coolant light keeps coming on. Fear that my water pump may be going out or radiator end tanks may be cracked and slowly leaking. Maybe I need to just get this thing to a damned Carmax, find a 3 series, and call it a day.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Apparently a sedan G37 with a manual trans is also a needle-in-a-haystack find. Coupes all day long, but can't find crap with 4 doors.


There are 12 in the country on Cars.com meeting the requirements.

Infinity G37

Under $20k

Manual trans

Sedan

3 of which are within 250 miles of Charlotte. (unfortunately they all have 75k+ miles...

http://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action?PMmt=1-1-0&amp;bsId=20211&amp;crSrtFlds=stkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-pseudoPrice&amp;feedSegId=28705&amp;isDealerGrouping=false&amp;mdId=21153&amp;mkId=20019&amp;prMn=0&amp;prMx=20000&amp;requestorTrackingInfo=RTB_SEARCH&amp;rpp=50&amp;sf1Dir=DESC&amp;sf1Nm=price&amp;sf2Dir=ASC&amp;sf2Nm=miles&amp;stkTypId=28881&amp;transTypeId=28112&amp;zc=28201&amp;rd=250&amp;searchSource=UTILITY


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

There are a few G35's too (previous model of the G37).


----------



## knight1fox3

75k on an Infinity G35 or 37 isn't too bad IMO. They will go for 2 or 3 times that distance if properly maintained. I bought my G35 with 60k miles on it. Rapidly approaching the 130k mark already.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

There's nothing wrong with coupes either. Both of my kids easily fit in the back seat of the Camaro, even with their booster seats. I've climbed back there a few times and it really isn't as tight as everyone says it is (although if I was 6' tall &amp; 250lbs I would have a different opinion).


----------



## KevinA

I got my oil changed at a Jiffy Lube the other day. A while later I started hearing an occasional noise, checked the oil level and it was 3-1/2 quarts LOW. Not good. It holds 6-1/2. No leaks or anything, they just didn't fill it up. Hopefully no damage done. They were very apologetic, as if this must be a regular occurrence. They said they would take care of any issues that came from it.


----------



## blybrook PE

^ best get it in writing. They like to screw over customers.

Few years back I let Midas change the brakes on my truck; they screwed something up in the rear drums and fried the axle bearings. They claimed verbally that they would take care of it, changed managers before the truck got back and I had to pay the whole bill cause no one would fess up to the conversation.

Made the mistake once, never again!


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> Hawk HPS and HP+ are decent street pads. Stay away from anything EBC makes other than the Yellow Stuff pads.


What's your beef with EBC? I'm waiting to see what they say about mine before I make up my mind.

I swapped the front brakes on my Dodge Ram. The old ones were shot...like really shot. All the pads were down to the metal and one caliper was so bad it had popped on of the pistons out and I ended up losing pressure. Rather than pay a shop some ridiculous amount of money to put on mediocre stuff, I decided to get some good pads and rotors and do it myself. I put on their Sport rotors (the dimpled and slotted ones) and their heavy duty Greenstuff pads. That was *~17,000 miles* ago and today I just finished replacing the pads today.

They were already down to the metal again and started tearing up the rotors. I didn't even think to look at them because the miles were so low. For now, I just threw some new pads I picked up at the local parts store. I sent something to EBC expressing my displeasure. They did send an email back pretty quickly asking me to send a copy of my receipt and some pictures. We'll see what they have to say after I send those tomorrow.


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hawk HPS and HP+ are decent street pads. Stay away from anything EBC makes other than the Yellow Stuff pads.
> 
> 
> 
> What's your beef with EBC? I'm waiting to see what they say about mine before I make up my mind.
> 
> I swapped the front brakes on my Dodge Ram. The old ones were shot...like really shot. All the pads were down to the metal and one caliper was so bad it had popped on of the pistons out and I ended up losing pressure. Rather than pay a shop some ridiculous amount of money to put on mediocre stuff, I decided to get some good pads and rotors and do it myself. I put on their Sport rotors (the dimpled and slotted ones) and their heavy duty Greenstuff pads. That was *~17,000 miles* ago and today I just finished replacing the pads today.
> 
> They were already down to the metal again and started tearing up the rotors. I didn't even think to look at them because the miles were so low. For now, I just threw some new pads I picked up at the local parts store. I sent something to EBC expressing my displeasure. They did send an email back pretty quickly asking me to send a copy of my receipt and some pictures. We'll see what they have to say after I send those tomorrow.
Click to expand...



Have seen quite a few of their pads wear excessively, friction material chunking, and excessive rotor wear (even for a race pad).

Most recently, my boss had his car at Road Atlanta for a track day with BRAND NEW EBC BlueStuff pads, in one session the friction material was completely gone. I'm talking 15 minutes, down to bare metal on the backing plates. Compound on the pads was completely defective. They would not replace, said he bedded them wrong, etc.


----------



## Supe

The future Dexmobile?

http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/07/get-funky-nissan-180sx-meets-chevy-camaro/


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Uh...no.

I am honestly debating whether I build an early Transformers 1 1977 Camaro:







Or a Gen 1 Optimus Prime (mid-80's Kenworth K100):






The Camaro would be cheaper, but the Kenworth would be sooo much cooler.


----------



## matt267 PE

do both!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Of course if I did the Optimus, I would get the trailer too. Luckily it's only a standard box trailer with some graphics, but I may load it up with a car elevator so I could take the other cars to car shows too...


----------



## Road Guy

I was behind the ghostbuster car guy one day last week.. I think if you do a new one you should pic a different theme....."exapnd your horizons" 

I'm in the market for new tires and rims for the tahoe...

Most of my research leads me to a michellin brand tire for snow, street, and minor off road (like driving to scout campouts and such)?

Everything I read tells me everything goodyear sucks ass..I would agree with that based on the tires I have owned in the past...

What say you all??

I want somethign that looks like an off road tire to go along with the redneck / coloradoization of my ride (Ski Rack, stickers, and stuff) :0 Mainly I want to be able to go up in dem mountains in the snow and not have any issues...

And I dont have a good pic, but I have an older Tahoe, its the hunter green color. Im trying to spend less than $100 on the rims, $150 on the tires..I am leaning toward something black? Id like to get something with the MT look without the price tag?


----------



## envirotex

Dex...

Go with the camaro...it'll fit in the garage without having to put your wife's car in the snow...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

You're not going to find much in the $100 range for wheels. The cheap ones I'm looking at for the Camaro start at $1k for the set (no lug nuts, no TPMS sensors, no tires).

For tires, I highly recommend the Bridgestone Dueller REVOs

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&amp;tireModel=Dueler+A%2FT+Revo+2

Great mileage, great traction (wet/dry/offroad), quiet on the highways. And cost about $150/tire. The guys at Peerless tire have always treated me well.


----------



## Road Guy

There are some decent looking sets at 4Wheel Parts and Accessories for the $100 (+/-) range, no way I would spend that much on this car (or probably any car)

I just cant tell if I would be better to go with black or chrome on a ugly green SUV?

I just cant stand the pitted out cheap cheverolt rims the car has on there now...

I have been looking trying to find some used factory rims that fit but there really isnt much out there, or much that isnt the cost of buying something new to begin with..

But I like the look of that tire, is that what yall have on your jeep?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Yeah, we've used the Duellers for a long time. We have them on the Jeep now, and had them on our previous two SUVs. IMHO there isn't anything better.

Issue with cheap rims is you get what you pay for. They don't have much for durability, are really heavy, and can get damaged easily. In this case, you probably don't mind any of that.


----------



## Road Guy

I had these on both my jeeps and I road them hard (lots of off road) Never had any issues....


http://www.4wheelparts.com/Wheels/Series-51-15x8-with-5-on-4-5-Bolt-Pattern-Flat-Black.aspx?t_c=11&amp;t_s=209&amp;t_pt=100021&amp;t_pn=pcw51-5865f&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=froogle&amp;utm_campaign=product&amp;emlprox=out&amp;ppcfon=1&amp;gclid=CLm5462r6b8CFcRcMgodQSEA0g

I just don't know if they would look good on a Tahoe.... Need photoshop...


----------



## Supe

RG: Check with some of the local "dub" tire places (big chrome wheels/tires). A lot of times, they have a stash of OEM take offs.

I've also owned the round-hole version of what you posted above. They're heavy as hell but worked fine.


----------



## snickerd3

Road Guy said:


> I was behind the ghostbuster car guy one day last week.. I think if you do a new one you should pic a different theme....."exapnd your horizons"
> 
> I'm in the market for new tires and rims for the tahoe...
> 
> Most of my research leads me to a michellin brand tire for snow, street, and minor off road (like driving to scout campouts and such)?
> 
> Everything I read tells me everything goodyear sucks ass..I would agree with that based on the tires I have owned in the past...
> 
> What say you all??
> 
> I want somethign that looks like an off road tire to go along with the redneck / coloradoization of my ride (Ski Rack, stickers, and stuff) :0 Mainly I want to be able to go up in dem mountains in the snow and not have any issues...
> 
> And I dont have a good pic, but I have an older Tahoe, its the hunter green color. Im trying to spend less than $100 on the rims, $150 on the tires..I am leaning toward something black? Id like to get something with the MT look without the price tag?


I have michillin tires on my pilot and I hate them. they don't handle rain very well. Snow they were ok. But I do have over 66,666 miles on them and the dealer last week said the tread were at a 5, about half way through the life of the tire.


----------



## snickerd3

goodyear assurance triple treads are nice. They have been the replacement tires bought for all my cars. expensive as all get out because they are 80k mile tires but they handle the midwest weather nicely.


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> goodyear assurance triple treads are nice. They have been the replacement tires bought for all my cars. expensive as all get out because they are 80k mile tires but they handle the midwest weather nicely.


+100 for the triple treads. LadyFox's uncle works for Pomps (local tire place around here) and made the recommendation for those. After putting them on my RWD Infiniti, I couldn't believe how much of a difference it made in rain in snow. I barely ever spin the tires any longer during the winter months. The car handles much better and smoother too. As Snick said, expensive, but totally worth it IMO for midwest weather conditions.


----------



## snickerd3

^ when mr snick had his own personal car, triple treads were the tire of choice on his camry too. so they aren't just an suv sort of tire


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Well, if they're good enough for a Camry....


----------



## Road Guy

I just went through too many goodyear tires before that didnt last 30,000 miles, hell I dont think they even lasted 20,000 miles, I cant give them any more money..

I had a set of these on my jeep (not the one I had last year but the one I had 5+ years ago) they went +50,00 miles, and anyone that knows how I drove that jeep...thats a true testiment to a tire. 

im thinking of getting something similar...

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/33X12-50R15LT-Radial-Xtreme-A-T.aspx?t_c=13&amp;t_s=157&amp;t_pt=100809&amp;t_pn=PCT55033

also, novice question.. why do heavy rims matter? I can see for racing / high performance but is it going to make that much of a difference in an already heavy as hell SUV? I dont think I can get worse gas mileage..

I just want to be able to get to Winter Park and back without going over the side of cements project...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Unsprung weight. It is a torque, HP, and gas mileage killer.


----------



## Supe

Performance aside, it can drastically impede braking in a panic-stop type situation.


----------



## knight1fox3

Well I can understand your position regarding Goodyear. But these particular set are from their premium line and are guaranteed to 80k miles. Plus Pomps guarantees the install and will make any necessary adjustments for free.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Concerning the tires, obviously if you upsize them to a 31 or 33" tire you'll have to check clearances. This will be even more critical if you change wheels too unless you match ALL the dimensions of the factory wheel (specifically width &amp; offset). This is usually not a problem if the vehicle has a suspension lift, but it's all the more reason to go into a shop to talk through your goals.

Without knowing what your Tahoe specs are, I really can't say one way or another whether a wheel/tire combo would fit.


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> Well I can understand your position regarding Goodyear. But these particular set are from their premium line and are guaranteed to 80k miles. Plus Pomps guarantees the install and will make any necessary adjustments for free.


that's another reason we buy the triple treads. 20k-30k tires would be new tires every year for me. the 80K guarantee lets me go a little over 3 yrs btwn tire replacement purchases.


----------



## Road Guy

I dont think I can gets 31's on there wthout a lift, but they sell a similar tread tire in a 26" X 16"....(I was just showing the tire for reference)...

I cant imagine the factory wheels are much lighter than the pro comps, but I wil check the buid sheet if they list it...

I plan to go to the 4 wheel parts place in Thornton and talk to them, im just passing idle time here...

I took off the factory wheels and put on the pro-comps on the jeep and didnt notice any change in mpg or stopping.. then again I drove like the meatloaf song...

and about Goodyear- these were on my Durango (whic I drove normal) . I was buying $150 tires and wasnt getting anywhere near the money for them.. They could make a lifetime warranty and I still wouldnt give them another nickle..


----------



## MetsFan

Ugh, I just spent $1300 on tires and an alignment on my Touareg. Apparently, the OEM 19's have only about 4 or 5 all season options and most of them suck. The car came with Pirelli Scorpion Verdes and they only lasted 24K miles to 4/32. Not only that, but the road noise started to get unbearable during the last 4K miles or so.

I ended up going with some Michelins that got pretty good reviews in the forums.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

19" wheels have some of the worst options out there for tires. I was looking to go with some 19" Vette wheels for the Camaro but decided not to because the tire selection was so bad (and expensive).


----------



## MetsFan

Yeah, I even thought about buying a set of 18's since it might be cheaper in the long run, but decided against it. I'm hoping this set will last longer than the first set.


----------



## envirotex

New Old Man Emu suspension on the Land Cruiser. Looks pretty good...now for the brake fluid on the floor boards.


----------



## akwooly

I bought yoko geolanders to replace the crappy goodyears on my tundra got them on amazon and they were $100 cheaper per tire than the local distributor. Plus free shipping to AK! That's unheard of, tire rack wanted $200 to ship 4 tires.

Why do the put p metric tires on a truck in the first place? These things barely have 30k on them.


----------



## Supe

Finally did a loooooooong overdue oil change on the Saturn. Advance has a pretty good deal going - 5 quart jug of Pennzoil full synthetic for $33 and a free K&amp;N oil filter (they only had a Purolator that would fit mine, so they gave me the deal anyways), with a $10 Advance mail in rebate/gift card thing. Probably going to buy a few more for the truck.

Think I also found the coolant leak, hopefully fixed it. Guys who swapped the batter out last time had the cables touching against the coolant reservoir. For whatever reason, the battery cables on this car get obnoxiously hot, and it ended up almost melting a hole in the bottom, and did melt a hole up top, just above the cold full line. There was coolant in the battery tray/side of battery, so that confirmed suspicions. Rerouted the battery cables and JB Weld Epoxied the hole/gouge. Will keep an eye on it and see how it goes, but should be taken care of. Also threw some silicone heat sleeving on the cables as a just in case.


----------



## Road Guy

rear brakes went from 2 days of squeeking a little bit to that wonderful metal on metal sound on the way home Friday afternoon....

Spent most of the morning Sunday swapping them out.. wouldnt have been so bad but I had to use the factory jack, luckily I didnt sell my jackstands when I moved...

wouldnt have been so bad had we not hiked for 8 hours on Saturday  sore as F'n shit!!!!


----------



## MA_PE

Fun car show yesterday here in New England


----------



## Supe

That GP in the background is sweeeeet.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> That GP in the background is sweeeeet.


GP?

You mean Buford's LeMans?


----------



## Supe

Ah, you're right. When I clicked on the pic, it cut everything aft of the windshield off, so I missed the obvious.


----------



## knight1fox3

> *World's Oldest Running Car Sells for $4.62 M in a 3 minute bidding war.*
> 
> This is the oldest motor vehicle car in the world that still runs. It was built one year before Karl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler invented the internal combustion engine.
> 
> The world's oldest running motor vehicle has been sold at auction for an astonishing $4.62 million, more than double the pre-sale estimate, as two bidders chased the price up in a three-minute bidding war.
> 
> The 1884 De Dion Bouton et Trepardoux Dos-a-Dos Steam Runabout drew a standing ovation as it was 'driven up onto the stage' at Friday's RM Auction in Hershey, Pennsylvania - to prove that this 127-year-old car really does run! - and attracted a starting bid of $500 000, which was immediately doubled to $1 million. Encouraged by the applauding crowd, the bidding went swiftly up to $4.2 million - 4.62 million including the 10 percent commission - before the car was knocked down to an 'unnamed buyer'.
> 
> The Dos-a-Dos (Back-to-Back) Steam Runabout was built in 1884 by George Bouton and Charles-Armand Trepardoux for French entrepreneur Count de Dion, who named it 'La Marquise' after his mother.
> 
> In 1887, with De Dion at the tiller, it won the world's first ever motor race (it was the only entrant to make the start line!) covering the 32 km from the Pont de Neuilly in Paris to Versailles and back in one hour and 14 minutes (an average of 25.9 km/h) and, according to contemporary reports, hitting a breathtaking 60 km/h on the straights.
> 
> La Marquise has only had four owners, remaining in one family for 81 years, and has been restored twice, once by the Doriol family and again by British collector Tom Moore in the early 1990's. Since then, it has taken part in four London-to-Brighton runs and collected a double gold at the 1997 Pebble Beach 'd'Elegance in California'.


----------



## Supe

I'm surprised it only went for that much, given what you see some of the exotics go for at collector car auctions.


----------



## jeb6294

Well color me surprised. Came home to a box on the porch with EBC plastered all over it. Two new Sport rotors and new pads...they even bumped me up to the Yellowstuff pads. From the picture I sent them they said it looked like I was getting some uneven pressure from my caliper so just to be on the safe side I'm going to replace both calipers this time. I found some "high performance" Powerstop calipers that are on the way. They're actually a bit cheaper than the calipers from AutoZone and being Powerstop, I'm hoping I can count on them being better than average. The fact that they're already powdercoated red is just the icing on the cake. The fact that this is going to be the third time getting into the brakes in the last 6 months, shouldn't be more than a 1 or 2 hour job.


----------



## NJmike PE

So I know I've flashed this story in a bunch of threads, but I'll now limit it to here. Just called the Trans shop and he confirmed that I broke the 2nd gear band. Should be done in the morning.


----------



## blybrook PE

^at least ya now know the issue. Sometimes dropping the pan is the only way to tell. Glad yer gettin it fixed! Better than having an issue while cruisingp down the road.


----------



## Road Guy

hope it don't set you back to far!


----------



## knight1fox3

You serious Clark?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Did they do a complete rebuild?


----------



## NJmike PE

Ship Wreck PE said:


> Did they do a complete rebuild?


Just replacing the band


----------



## NJmike PE

I didn't want to do a full rebuild because I'm gonna dump the car in less than 6 mos for a St00pid mini van


----------



## NJmike PE

Road Guy said:


> hope it don't set you back to far!


Sounds like it won't. Based on my discussions with my employer, they are going to cover the bill.


----------



## MA_PE

What's the damage?


----------



## NJmike PE

I'll know for sure in the morning but the 2nd gear band broke. I was initially quoted 1k to replace it.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

You gotta quit layin drag.


----------



## NJmike PE

She's gotta learn to stop burnin up her trans. 5 yrs ago it was the transfer case in this car and now this.


----------



## Road Guy

You need to withhold sex until she learns to drive correctly zzzzz


----------



## NJmike PE

Road Guy said:


> You need to withhold sex until she learns to drive correctly zzzzz


Maybe she already thinks that I'm a bad driver... :dunno:


----------



## wilheldp_PE

snickerd3 said:


> goodyear assurance triple treads are nice. They have been the replacement tires bought for all my cars. expensive as all get out because they are 80k mile tires but they handle the midwest weather nicely.




My car needs new shoes. It is sitting at 61k miles on the original tires, never rotated. I'm getting quotes for ~$600 for Tripletreds out the door (tires, install, tax, old tire disposal, and free rotations). Good deal or no?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

The last set of Michelins that I put on my 250

Set me back $1400.00, so $600.00 sounds great.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

This is an '08 Nissan Altima, so $600 sounds steep to me.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah us truck and SUV drivers Would say $600 is a deal.....


----------



## blybrook PE

I paid 700 for 2 truck tires and 600 for 4 trailer tires (10 ply). It sounds fairly reasonable.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I'm looking at close to $600 for only the rear tires on Bee...


----------



## MA_PE

$150/wheel sounds ok for an Altima. Must be well-known brand like bridgestone or michelin.

Did you look on tirerack.com for some yokos or other lesser known brands? might be cheaper.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

I was just taking the suggestion from this thread that TripleTreds are the way to go. I could get some Kuhmos or cheaper Firestones, for ~$100/tire, but the TripleTreds are guaranteed for 80k miles.


----------



## akwooly

I bought some yoko geolanders for $840 (4 tires) on amazon prime. Cheapest place for 18" wheels LT load range d tires.


----------



## Supe

So, it turns out that for $1000 bucks, I can add aftermarket traction control to the racecar that is designed to work specifically with my engine management system (works based on driveshaft speed, and learns the acceleration rate/adapts to changing conditions).

I'm wondering if I should go that path despite the price, since that sort of system would have prevented the exact type of very expensive wreck that I had at my last race - it will pull power out if you start to spin the tires coming out of an apex or over a pavement transition. Thinking of it as an insurance policy, given how fragile the car is now, and the amount of money I have sunk into it.


----------



## csb

Need some help.

My car is a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid. I just replaced the brakes and rotors last month and have never had any problems with it.

Until two days ago.

Headed up the mountains when I have a sudden loss of power and then a grating sound in the engine. Had to have it towed home. I'm guessing the engine is shot, but won't know for sure until the mechanic calls tomorrow.

What would you guys do if it is the engine? Replace it? Or figure the car is 8 years old and start looking for a new ride?


----------



## NJmike PE

Timing belt?


----------



## blybrook PE

Coulda been a timing belt like NJ suggested. Hard to tell with your description though. Was it still running, just lacking power or dead in the water?

You will be better off long run to replace the engine with a short block if the rest of the vehicle is in good shape should the timing belt have gone and the engine stopped working. Usually under 2k for engine swap compared to total vehicle replacement.


----------



## csb

That's what a mechanic friend suggested- the short block. The gas engine is only a 4-cylinder, because it's partnered with the hybrid engine.


----------



## Road Guy

Tough call... I just know when a vehicle starts costing me close to a payment every other month I usually tend to just get a new(er) vehicle....

If my tahoe (2002) engine died today I would replace the engine cause I just don't want a payment right now and I don't have enough to pay cash for one...

I hate car payments and I also hate putting a bunch of money into old cars....


----------



## csb

blybrook PE said:


> Coulda been a timing belt like NJ suggested. Hard to tell with your description though. Was it still running, just lacking power or dead in the water? You will be better off long run to replace the engine with a short block if the rest of the vehicle is in good shape should the timing belt have gone and the engine stopped working. Usually under 2k for engine swap compared to total vehicle replacement.




And to answer the question, it was still running, but making an awful metal grinding sound. It almost sounded like the old Operation game when the metal buzzer would go, but grinding. We put oil in it and the sound quieted down, but it still didn't sound normal.

I am also in the hating car payments. Having just replaced brakes and rotors, I'm inclined to keep it. I mean, the shocks can go and then other crap can go, but I'm not quite at the "a new car would be a good idea" point. Tomorrow's news might change that. At this point, it's a used car that I know about.


----------



## blybrook PE

Sounds more like an oil pump. You mighta scored the pistons some; but as it still runs, a rebuild or short block will be needed in the near future.

Not as bad as a timing belt; coulda been worse. Let us know what the mechanic says.


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; don't forget to come here for car buying advice!


----------



## MA_PE

csb: how many miles on the car now? If you know/trust the mechanic and the rest of the car is in good shape a new motor may be the way to go. Caveat is that if they get a motor out of a salvage yard you never really know what you're getting. If they go "new" as in a short block and transfer over the good bits from the existing motor, you really aren't getting a "new" motor instead it's a partial rebuild. If they're selling you a new crate engine then you essentially have a new motor. How long do you plan on running this car after the repair?

It's a big question of how much you trust the guy doing the repair. New motor might run great but all of a sudden the heater and AC don't work right...etc. There are a lot of systems that get "handled" swapping out a motor. attention to detail is key. If you trust the guy then it shouldn't be an issue. My 0.02.

My advice is to quit your job and buy a new Range Rover SUV.


----------



## csb

Done and done!


----------



## MA_PE

Nice. Enjoy the range rover


----------



## csb

Official verdict- something broke in the lower part of the engine and caused it to leak all of it's oil to somewhere. Options offered:

1. Used engine- pulled from a salvage yard, comes with a 12-month, 12,000 mile warranty= $5670.66 (parts and labor)

2. Remanufactured engine- 3-year, unlimited mileage warranty= $6983.41

The car has 81,000 miles on it.

Mechanic said that he's seen at least 7 other 2006 Escapes do this. They reach 80,000 miles and break down, with no warning lights. He said he has two parked in the backlot where people just walked away from them.

I would not go with option 1. My struggle now is do I pay more than my car is worth on a remanufactured engine and cross my fingers that nothing else goes?


----------



## snickerd3

that sucks!!!!!


----------



## Flyer_PE

Hard decision. In its current condition, the value of the car is pretty much measured by the pound. I would treat it as purchasing a used car with 81k miles on it. For 7k you're getting a new engine for a known car. Other than the new engine, it's a devil you know rather than one you don't. You have to weigh the risk of further repairs increasing the cost to above that of a newer vehicle with fewer miles.

How lucky do you feel with a new engine vs. another car? No matter what, you're going to pay. It's just a matter of how much and for what.


----------



## csb

That's what I've been going back to- it's a used car that I know what the original owner had done to it. And hey, it had brand new brakes!

The luck part is what I'm struggling with. The mechanic did mention that the people who have replaced the engine have not been back in. The main issue is that the 2006 Escape engine self-destructs without warning at 80,000 miles. I should get another 8 years, right?


----------



## Road Guy

Ouch sorry---- thats crazy expensive for an engine?

I think I would have to sell for scrap and move on....

I hope you win the jeep!

Have you shopped the engine price around? Was that from a dealership?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Personally, if I liked the car, I would probably put the new engine in it and run to about 140k miles or so and dump the car before it goes for engine no. 3.


----------



## Road Guy

you can get a 3-4 year old used Subaru 4WD thing at almost any car max for $15,000.. (Not that I advocate a Subaru) - just showing comparisons- wife has been sending me some via email so I assume that means she is looking for cars...


----------



## csb

Will you take $4000 for your Prius?


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> Ouch sorry---- thats crazy expensive for an engine?
> 
> I think I would have to sell for scrap and move on....
> 
> I hope you win the jeep!
> 
> Have you shopped the engine price around? Was that from a dealership?


Buggering this all us is the fact that it's a hybrid. The hybrid engine sits on TOP of the gas engine, meaning $2000 of that is labor costs. The other shops in town won't touch it.

I told my husband I wanted to wait and see if I win the Jeep before I decide anything. I don't need a car for a month, right?


----------



## blybrook PE

Ouch! Must be the hybrid engine BS that is increasing the cost of a short block.

As already stated, the devil you know is better than the one you don't.

I'd shop around for a short block and replace the engine.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I keep telling myself that my next truck will be a restored early '70s Chevy just so I can work on it. I like all the cool bells and whistles on my truck but I can't stop pondering how long all that fancy stuff will work and what it will cost to repair when it fails.


----------



## csb

The used engine is $3000; the reman is $4500.

I'm really frustrated that it seems like it was an issue with the 2006 Escape engine. I should have had at least two more years on that sucker.


----------



## Flyer_PE

How far long would you keep the thing if you were to do the repair? When I find one I like, I'll run it damn near to scrap status. Case in point is that I'm likely to spend a couple grand in the near future to revive my 24 year old sports car.


----------



## csb

I like the car. It runs well in the snow and is the right size. It's got its quirks and needs a new windshield and will need new tires in the not too distant future. I'm not emotionally attached to it, especially after this summer. I think I was mostly keeping it because it is paid off.


----------



## snickerd3

maybe take a look see if there is something else new/used that catches your eye...


----------



## Flyer_PE

Being paid for is my favorite feature of any car I've ever had.


----------



## Road Guy

ahh I didn't know it was a Hybrid- that sucks- sorry..remind me never to fool with a combo gas hybrid like that- even though I guess I already have one..

I think that's the Ford Escape with the Mazda engine in that model? Id personally have a hard time putting that much money into it..

I drive a 2002 Tahoe - its paid for but I think I would have a difficult time putting more than a few grand into it if something came up..


----------



## csb

That's the one. It also makes me a little nervous about Mazda.

I own four bicycles. I just need a bike trailer to make it work.


----------



## MA_PE

as long as the car looks decent and has no other real "deterioration" issues (no rust/rot, interior looks good, pw windows are working well and not slowing down, headlight lenses aren't all scratched and yellowed (if plastic), grill and body panels aren't all cracked, paint looks good, etc.) I'd be inclined to go with the remanuf. engine. a new car without trade-in would be ~$300+ per month. That's 20 months of payments to get to $6k. The remanuf engine in guaranteed for 36 months so you can hold off on getting something else for a while. any trade-in value would be the same (because you don't have any now).


----------



## blybrook PE

I'd avoid the used engine mainly due to the unknown wear &amp; tear. Especially since you've already had one failure, what's to say that another isn't 5k down the road. A reman is the only way to go for the newer engines if you can't do the rebuild yourself.

As you've already stated, it's more expensive due to the hybrid status. This in itself sucks, but there are some shops that may work with you. From above, it sounds as if you're stuck with the dealer. I'd search around for a hole in the wall shop that does engine work, you may get a good deal (I've had 2 engine rebuilds this way in the past on different trucks and the rebuilds were better than stock for ~1/2 price).

One main question you have to ask is as the car is paid for and your already looking at approximately 1.5k in additional repairs after the engine (windshield and shoes); would that 6k in repairs be better spent on another rig?

Winning the jeep could be your best option. However, while you wait for the sweepstakes results, you can start searching for another repair facility to do the work (just in case).


----------



## csb

MA_PE said:


> as long as the car looks decent and has no other real "deterioration" issues (no rust/rot, interior looks good, pw windows are working well and not slowing down, headlight lenses aren't all scratched and yellowed (if plastic), grill and body panels aren't all cracked, paint looks good, etc.) I'd be inclined to go with the remanuf. engine. a new car without trade-in would be ~$300+ per month. That's 20 months of payments to get to $6k. The remanuf engine in guaranteed for 36 months so you can hold off on getting something else for a while. any trade-in value would be the same (because you don't have any now).




Power windows have started to squeak on the driver side.

Cars are so dumb. I feel like I need to move to Portland, OR.


----------



## Supe

Portland may work, but only if you ride a "fixie".


----------



## Lumber Jim

csb said:


> The used engine is $3000; the reman is $4500.
> 
> I'm really frustrated that it seems like it was an issue with the 2006 Escape engine. I should have had at least two more years on that sucker.


Go with a different engine style altogether. Forget the hybrid part and go back to a standard, reliable engine. (since it is known that the original is only good for 80,000 miles) For 3000-$4500 + parts and labor, you now have the right to be choosy...

If you upgrade the engine, maybe you could sell it to some punk kid for more than its worth when you are done with it later down the road?


----------



## csb

It's the standard, reliable engine that #[email protected]! the bed. Most of the people reporting the issue were driving plain ol' Escapes. I probably skated by for longer because my car was also using the hybrid.

I know this- I can't afford a Tesla and there's no way I'm buying another hybrid.


----------



## Road Guy

I've always said if I only had two kids I would get one of those Toyota FJ cruiser's... They have a lot of redneck add on crap you can add to them


----------



## snickerd3

Road Guy said:


> I've always said if I only had two kids I would get one of those Toyota FJ cruiser's... They have a lot of redneck add on crap you can add to them


but they can't tow a whole lot of weight. Our neighbor got one so he could tow a boat...yeah that didn't turn out so well. One of those little two person fishing dinghy/johnboats are about the extent of their towing capacity.

they do have a lot of add ons though. my cousin added a scuba to his


----------



## csb

There's a used one in Denver.


----------



## Road Guy

In a car like that or a jeep with the short wheelbase really is not meant for towing..

If I lived in a warm weather climate I'd go with the jeep but for driving around -2° I think I would like an actual insulated vehicle


----------



## blybrook PE

There are a good number of FJ's driving around at -40 in Fairbanks. I know several people in the off road group that love them.

Several jeeps too, but the soft tops are left parked for winter months (usually).


----------



## csb

Good news! I saved a bunch of money on my car insurance.

Of course, it's because I dropped insurance coverage on my busted car to comprehensive. Fingers crossed the dealership backs a tow truck into it!


----------



## knight1fox3

Volunteer your Escape for a crash test. LOL

&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YT-VBO4O55A


----------



## MA_PE

usually it has to run for a crash test. I suppose they could get a running barrier to hit it. 

It'd work for a drop test.


----------



## Exception Collection

My car died - fractured heater core. It's fixable, but the car was reaching the end of usable life anyway. It's looking like I am keeping the car as a "I can fix this and sell it", but not spending the money for a mechanic to do it. In the meantime, I've bought a new car - Kia Soul - that is as comfortable as the old car was.


----------



## NJmike PE

Should've gone with a miata


----------



## blybrook PE

A heater core is an easy fix and no mechanic is warranted. Have swapped many out over the years. Usually takes 3-4 hours; tops.

Worst part is flushing the system and getting all the air out.

Although I don't work much on them foreign cars. Could take a bit longer with the way they cram crap under the hood...


----------



## envirotex

Mr. Tex ended up replacing the work truck with one of these:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I liked my old Bronco. Still mad the tax man made me get rid of it...


----------



## Supe

Spent a nauseating amount of money this weekend on car parts for the Mazda. This should be my last "major" purchase on the car other than the driveshaft and paint. I'm looking forward to not spending any more money on this damned thing, and hopefully getting it finished this winter.

Also, air outlet duct for the radiator is finished. This will exhaust out two holes placed in the low pressure zone of the RX7's hood. Paper thin box tubing skinned in ABS plastic.


----------



## MA_PE

that looks pretty slick Supe. Nice work. How about some overall shots of the beast? When is the next race day?


----------



## Supe

Truth is, there's too much shit in the garage right now to even back up far enough to take an overall shot.

I'm targeting having it ready for some spring races. Still a long ways to go. I just primed the drivers's side floor pans. Need it and the driver's side half of the dash bar/cage painted so I can put the pedal assembly in there. I basically need to have everything in there ready to go for the clutch pedal. Long story short, the hydraulic TOB for clutch has to be bled outside of the car, and I don't plan on pulling the transmission back out once its in there.


----------



## csb

Want to rally race a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid? I'll make shipping cheaper and take out the engine.

Went car browsing this weekend and nothing spoke to me. I'm holding out for December.


----------



## Supe

I'm surprised nothing spoke to you. I thought that was pretty standard with most HUD's in cars these days.


----------



## Exception Collection

blybrook PE said:


> A heater core is an easy fix and no mechanic is warranted. Have swapped many out over the years. Usually takes 3-4 hours; tops.
> 
> Worst part is flushing the system and getting all the air out.
> 
> Although I don't work much on them foreign cars. Could take a bit longer with the way they cram crap under the hood...


I have no tools and no time - and it was the second major repair of the month. It was time.


----------



## MetsFan

The xenon headlamp on my car went out. I've read some recommendations to switch both out since the color will be a bit off. Will it make that much of a difference? At $50 a pop, I'd rather just switch out the faulty one right now.


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> Went car browsing this weekend and nothing spoke to me. I'm holding out for December.


Not even one of these? :dunno:


----------



## NJmike PE

^WTF is that???


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Smart car??


----------



## NJmike PE

doesn't look too smart to me


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It looks like it should be sold at Walmart to 6-yr olds...


----------



## NJmike PE

Dexman PE said:


> It looks like it should be sold at Walmart to 6-yr olds...








knight1fox3 said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Went car browsing this weekend and nothing spoke to me. I'm holding out for December.
> 
> 
> 
> Not even one of these? :dunno:
Click to expand...





whenever I see one of these things I think of this scene:

&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxClWgpq8Kg


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Then they grow up:


----------



## blybrook PE

knight1fox3 said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> Went car browsing this weekend and nothing spoke to me. I'm holding out for December.
> 
> 
> 
> Not even one of these?   :dunno:
Click to expand...

That thing will fit in the bed of my truck! Death trap if you ask me. That thing might only survive a moose in the road by driving right under it!


----------



## csb

I did look in a Fiat and realized my kid won't fit in the backseat. MiniCooper was out of the price range.

For the record, everything is out of my price range of "My MFing car was paid off!"


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> For the record, everything is out of my price range of "My MFing car was paid off!"




I see that you and I have similar price ranges at the moment.


----------



## Road Guy

so did you say the car could be rebuilt without the hybrid motor or is the system designed so that it has to have the hybrid motor to work?


----------



## csb

The hybrid still works...it's the gas motor that gave up the ghost. If I could get it to run without the gas engine, I'd be set.


----------



## Road Guy

_But I thought you said the hybrid is what was making it cost so much, could you take it to a regular shop and say ditch the hybrid and just put back a gasoline engine? (would that save you some hassle/$$ of a mech dealing with the Hybrid)? Or are they just to intertwined to remove?_



_Also could you buy one of those extended warranties and then wait a month or two and then submit a claim?_


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Swap out the pedals. It would be like some of those early mo-peds that would start by bicycle pedals but then run on it's own once it was "jump started".


----------



## Flyer_PE

csb said:


> I did look in a Fiat and realized my kid won't fit in the backseat.


Don't forget to account for the kid getting bigger over time. That was one of the factors dictating which cab style was picked for the new truck. Little Flyer ain't so little anymore and the extended cab wasn't going to cut it much longer.


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> _But I thought you said the hybrid is what was making it cost so much, could you take it to a regular shop and say ditch the hybrid and just put back a gasoline engine? (would that save you some hassle/$$ of a mech dealing with the Hybrid)? Or are they just to intertwined to remove?_
> 
> 
> 
> _Also could you buy one of those extended warranties and then wait a month or two and then submit a claim?_




The gas engine parts cost is $4463. The cost to install it is $1936, which I'm guessing is partially because of the hybrid sitting on top of it all. I'm guessing, though, that the cost to totally remove the hybrid stuff would be even more expensive. Don't forget there's a big ass battery along with that dinky engine. But I like your line of thinking on the warranty.

I had a dream that it got wrecked in the storage yard and I rejoiced.

My kid is a 53" tall third grader. At this rate, he's going to need to get used to not fitting in the backseat.


----------



## Road Guy

That $4000 price just for the engine parts really disturbs me...you check around any car forums?

I know a jeep has less parts and such but I got me one of them Quadratec Jeep magazines here at the office and it lists an In-Line 6 cylinder 4.0 Engine at $1062.00 (Delivered).

In line 6 is basically the best small engine ever built...

(waiting for the car afficiado's to reply to In line 6 comment in 3..2..1....)


----------



## csb

I need a 2.3 Liter w/AC SynchronECVT AUTO according to my magic quote sheet.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> In line 6 is basically the best small engine ever built...
> 
> (waiting for the car afficiado's to reply to In line 6 comment in 3..2..1....)


Since I've owned several (and currently own two inline 6 engines); they are definitely easier to work on and a better motor than many of the V8's out there. Compared side to side for a 1972 345 V8 and a 1974 258 straight 6, I'll take the six as it starts and warms up faster than the 345 when it counts. The 345 is the backup should I really need it though.

The current diesel is also a straight 6; I'd hate to see a V8 doing its job properly.


----------



## knight1fox3

I asked my BIL over the weekend who is part owner of small car repair shop and he said $4k wasn't too far off the reservation. But he did say their shop wouldn't charge as much for labor. Which doesn't help at all seeing he's in WI.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> _But I thought you said the hybrid is what was making it cost so much, could you take it to a regular shop and say ditch the hybrid and just put back a gasoline engine? (would that save you some hassle/$$ of a mech dealing with the Hybrid)? Or are they just to intertwined to remove?_
> 
> 
> 
> _Also could you buy one of those extended warranties and then wait a month or two and then submit a claim?_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gas engine parts cost is $4463. The cost to install it is $1936, which I'm guessing is partially because of the hybrid sitting on top of it all. I'm guessing, though, that the cost to totally remove the hybrid stuff would be even more expensive. Don't forget there's a big ass battery along with that dinky engine. But I like your line of thinking on the warranty.
> 
> I had a dream that it got wrecked in the storage yard and I rejoiced.
> 
> My kid is a 53" tall third grader. At this rate, he's going to need to get used to not fitting in the backseat.
Click to expand...



My concerns on those extended warranties:

1) They're not cheap themselves

2) They usually cap the max payout

3) If there were any ECU codes thrown when it crapped out, they will still be able to pick up on those. Some are time sensitive and will log how many miles have been driven since it was thrown.


----------



## Lumber Jim

Road Guy said:


> That $4000 price just for the engine parts really disturbs me...you check around any car forums?
> 
> I know a jeep has less parts and such but I got me one of them Quadratec Jeep magazines here at the office and it lists an In-Line 6 cylinder 4.0 Engine at $1062.00 (Delivered).
> 
> In line 6 is basically the best small engine ever built...
> 
> (waiting for the car afficiado's to reply to In line 6 comment in 3..2..1....)




Had an Old F150 with the 4.9L straight 6. Sold it with 275,000 miles on it and it was still running strong. I still see it from time to time even though it was mine two trucks ago. Note that strong is a relative term though: 145 HP when new... but a torq-ee motor that would pull anything at 45 mph. Poor mpg: 11-12 no matter what I did to it.

Oh, the hell that I put that poor thing through. Overheated at least three times (due to red lining through the mud) had it on 2 wheels and also completely air born. Good times...


----------



## NJmike PE

LJ what year? I had an 84 or 85. Thing was a tank


----------



## blybrook PE

LJ, sounds like my ol' 92 F150. Sold it to a air force guy that drove it back to the lower 48. Hauled many of things that should have never been hooked to a 1/2 ton.

Drove it till the clutch had less than 2mm of surface left and only took it in when the slave went out and I was speed shifting to get it going. Shop couldn't believe how little material was left. Never slipped once!


----------



## Lumber Jim

NJmike PE said:


> LJ what year? I had an 84 or 85. Thing was a tank








blybrook PE said:


> LJ, sounds like my ol' 92 F150. Sold it to a air force guy that drove it back to the lower 48. Hauled many of things that should have never been hooked to a 1/2 ton.
> 
> Drove it till the clutch had less than 2mm of surface left and only took it in when the slave went out and I was speed shifting to get it going. Shop couldn't believe how little material was left. Never slipped once!




93 F150 reg cab long box. 4 speed manual 4 wheel drive. I actually tried to blow it up once and it wouldn't. I let it bounce off the rev limiter for about 3 minutes before I dropped the clutch and "chirped" the tires at a tar intersection out in the country (this was on a dare)

I replaced the clutch once while I had it. The clutch went out (actually it was the hydraulic master cylinder) when I was in college (I commuted about 30 miles) and I had to jump the safety switch so that I could start it in gear and power shifted all the way home (I had no money for a tow) I replaced the clutch at the time of replacing the master cylinder because it was well worn.

when in 4 wheel drive, low, I could pop the clutch in third gear and it wouldn't kill (speaking to the torque 4th gear would require a little gas in order to set off). This meant that I could pull anything as long as I had traction. 1st gear was super granny low and so I never really used it unless I had to (pulling over sized trailers, wreaking havok and what not...)

I should have never sold the truck but I needed the money for upgrading after starting the family. I did all of my own mechanical work and had replaced most of the parts that could wear out. The guy that bought it got a hell of a deal.


----------



## csb

The car dealer from about an hour south is bringing up a 2011 VW Jetta SportWagon for me to drive until Friday. We'll see how I like it. It's got a diesel engine and gets a supposed 47 mpg on the highway.

Any thoughts?


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> The car dealer from about an hour south is bringing up a 2011 VW Jetta SportWagon for me to drive until Friday. We'll see how I like it. It's got a diesel engine and gets a supposed 47 mpg on the highway.
> 
> Any thoughts?


My friend has one of those (manual trans), same year too IIRC. I just hope nothing breaks on it because I've heard parts/maintenance can be a bear with the diesel engine. The more auto savvy here might be able to comment more on that.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

German car maintenance can be expensive. It cost more to do an oil change in my 2006 Jetta (regular gas) than it does in my Camaro. Back then it was something like $150 for the Jetta. But then again I take my cars to the dealership for regular maintenance instead of the cheaper Jiffy Lube alternatives...


----------



## snickerd3

you will be at the mercy of dealerships again, at least that is what I have noticed with those who have the german cars around here...your local mom and pop repair shop wont touch them.

sounds like a cool car to test drive though. I've debated the whole diesel fuel vehicle vs gas, but the cost breakout still made the gas cheaper.


----------



## csb

I'm still partial to the idea of remaining a single vehicle household. I'm convinced that every vehicle has issues, no vehicle will be the right choice, and it's a giant hunk of depreciating investment in my driveway. Then when I need a vehicle, I'll rent one.


----------



## Road Guy

I change my own oil in my garage 25 bucks plus no aggressive add ons by either Jiffy Lube or the Stealer shop...

My grandfather was a mechanical engineer from back in the day and he always said diesel engines were a pain in the ass


----------



## snickerd3

csb said:


> I'm still partial to the idea of remaining a single vehicle household. I'm convinced that every vehicle has issues, no vehicle will be the right choice, and it's a giant hunk of depreciating investment in my driveway. Then when I need a vehicle, I'll rent one.


how will you get to work in the winter with feet of snow?


----------



## Supe

Snow tires on the bike.


----------



## csb

snickerd3 said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still partial to the idea of remaining a single vehicle household. I'm convinced that every vehicle has issues, no vehicle will be the right choice, and it's a giant hunk of depreciating investment in my driveway. Then when I need a vehicle, I'll rent one.
> 
> 
> 
> how will you get to work in the winter with feet of snow?
Click to expand...









But honestly, I own a mountain bike, plus the walk is only 1.5 miles away.


----------



## Road Guy

The snow bikes cost about as much as a used car does...

They had some at Winter Park last year they look really cool to ride in the snow but they were also about $6000


----------



## csb

Hell, I could even rent a fat bike when I storm is moving in.

I'm apparently ruined on ownership of anything at this point.


----------



## snickerd3

so the dealership is fine with your car sitting there on their lot until you decide what you want to do?


----------



## csb

Yep. The guy told us no rush at all. In fact, he had two other Escapes parked there that people had abandoned.


----------



## snickerd3

^that's awesome!!! around here you would be told to get it fixed or get it off our property.


----------



## csb

They also have to give me written notice of a mechanic's lien.

I need to go to the dealership and see what they might give me for my busted car. Otherwise, I really need to tow it to a scrapyard or a sell it to a Craigslist rapist  auto restorer.


----------



## csb

VW has been delivered to me and I get it until Friday at 5. Time to rally race this sumbitch.

The guys who dropped it off were easily 80+. I suppose that's a pretty awesome gig for some old guys and the dealership must figure they aren't going to speed.


----------



## Road Guy

did they hit on you?


----------



## MetsFan

Dexman PE said:


> German car maintenance can be expensive. It cost more to do an oil change in my 2006 Jetta (regular gas) than it does in my Camaro. Back then it was something like $150 for the Jetta. But then again I take my cars to the dealership for regular maintenance instead of the cheaper Jiffy Lube alternatives...


Holy crap... We used to take our 02 gas Jetta to Valvoline for a $40-$50 synthetic oil change.

Those Jetta TDIs are expensive used though. I was just looking at a 2010 with over 100k miles for around $18k.


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> did they hit on you?


Not as much as I'm accustomed to for that age group.

The car is mighty zippy. I'm wondering if everything is going to seem zippy in comparison to a hybrid suv.


----------



## mudpuppy

CSB, your Escape is being recalled:

http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/ford-recalls-multiple-vehicles-gm-halts-some-corvette-sales-n202191


----------



## csb

EXCELLENT


----------



## csb

Hmm...could I say that it was a loss of power as I was heading up the hill and that's what caused it to crap out?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Isn't crapping out the very definition of loss of power?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Took Bee into the mechanic today. I have been trying to figure out an annoying clunk in the rear suspension and I just can't find the problem. This has been going on for a few weeks, and just as I think I have it figured out, the noise comes back. If I don't address it I'll be replacing bushings a 2nd time because whatever is causing the noise is also tearing up parts. I hate admitting defeat when it comes to this stuff, but I honestly have no clue what's wrong.

Here's hoping they can figure it out...


----------



## FLBuff PE

mudpuppy said:


> CSB, your Escape is being recalled:
> 
> http://www.nbcnews.com/business/autos/ford-recalls-multiple-vehicles-gm-halts-some-corvette-sales-n202191


Thanks for posting this. My FIL just bought his father's '05 Escape Hybrid (I didn't have a chance to warn him before it was too late). I'll forward this on to him.


----------



## Road Guy

I wonder if you could somehow factor in the hybrid replacement to the overall repair and make it cheaper..Didnt you say part of the cost was dealing with the hybrid motor?

I remember I once wanted to get a quote to replace an oil pan on my jeep, they listed out everything they had to remove to replace the oil pan and the overall price was more than I wanted to pay so I did it myself..

I didn't replace the oil pump (should have) at the time which you have to remove to replace the oil pan (&amp; vice versa) it died a few months after I replaced the oil pan. I didn't want to remove the oil pan again (total PIA days worth of work) I went back to the same place and the overall bill was half of what the quote was just to replace full oil pan.. I guess when they look in their little auto mechanics book they didn't charge me as much to just take off the oil pan and put it back on versus putting a new one on (still doesn't make sense to me)


----------



## csb

I looked up the recall on the NHTSA site and it's a quick fix (it seems) that involves some little piece. Nothing they have to remove the engine for, I'm afraid. I'm still headed to the dealership to get ALL my stuff out of my car. The sooner I quit that vehicle, the sooner I can cancel insurance.


----------



## Supe

They had rain at the hillclimb race I run over in Robbinsville (well, when I have a car that moves, anyways). 10 people wrecked bad enough on the first day that they were out of the competition, including the more experienced drivers. The guy who won was driving a $500k Pirelli World Challenge Porsche cup car, and ran an absolutely stupid time (he nearly tied the course record IN THE RAIN, and he is the current record holder with his old Porsche cup car).


----------



## MetsFan

I got coal rolled on yesterday by an F350. There were two left turning lanes and this guy was already in the left lane. I got on the right lane since I was taking the right exit after the turn. The light turns green, and we both proceed to make the left. Naturally, the guy is in front of me since he was on the inside lane but then decides to take up both lanes and spews a crap load of black smoke on me. It freaked out my wife, but I just kept going since I had read about these db's before.

Anyway, he takes the right exit I was also taking and takes off like a bat out of hell on the highway. I catch up to him at the next exit since there is a line of cars taking the on ramp we are both taking. After getting on the next highway, he stays in the right lane going slow, I pass him in the middle lane and luckily he didn't do anything else.

I have no idea what I did to piss him off. I'd heard of them doing that on a Prius, but on a Touareg?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Bee got his first ride on a tow truck this morning. I tried to upgrade some bushings yesterday and absolutely could not get the OEM ones out. They were so stuck that I actually broke 3 screwdrivers trying to pry them out (which was the recommended removal technique per the install instructions). All of my attempts to remove it resulted in a mangled bushing that could not be reused, and it left my driveshaft and differential disassembled. Only option that was left was to have it towed to a shop and have the shop finish it.


----------



## Supe

Suspension bushings? I have never in my life come across a pressed in OEM suspension bushing that didn't need to be either burned out, pressed out, or removed with an air chisel.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Differential bushings. I would have gladly used a press if I had one. The cradle bushings weren't quite as bad because I could at least get those ones cut out.


----------



## Supe

Yep, that falls into the "NFW" category. I prefer air chisel for those. I've seen many an ear cracked off otherwise...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

That's what the shop guy said. A broken ear = mucho dinero...


----------



## Supe

Yep, and not easy to support. I always cringe when I have to press bearings in and out of my RX7 hubs, because they are awkwardly shaped. A lot of bushings come with a steel outer sleeve, especially rubber ones. On a lot of older diffs, those would rust to the ears in the housing. We would burn the bushing out, and then you would take the air chisel to try and split the bushing sleeve or collapse it inward to remove it. Tough to do until you've done it a few times. I make life easy and use heims and double shear tabs whenever I can...


----------



## Road Guy

I just wait until they fall off due to dry rot (saves time &amp; probably some money)


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Yep, and not easy to support. I always cringe when I have to press bearings in and out of my RX7 hubs, because they are awkwardly shaped. A lot of bushings come with a steel outer sleeve, especially rubber ones. On a lot of older diffs, those would rust to the ears in the housing. We would burn the bushing out, and then you would take the air chisel to try and split the bushing sleeve or collapse it inward to remove it. Tough to do until you've done it a few times. I make life easy and use heims and double shear tabs whenever I can...


And the other issue was that the aluminum OEM housing was stronger than the metal used on the differential. Any time I would try to hit the screwdriver in as a wedge it would dig into the differential before doing anything to the aluminum housing.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Car is fixed. Differential bushings done, removed the aftermarket trailing arms, checked everything else, and now Bee drives like it's supposed to. Now to figure out what the hell I'm going to do with a set of $300 trailing arms that don't work...


----------



## Supe

What's wrong with them?


----------



## Road Guy

ebay motors / craigslist / swap meet /etc


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> What's wrong with them?


No clue. All I know is that when they were removed all of the problems went away. Something allowed the front connection to move under loading. We tried tightening the bolts more, tried shims, and nothing worked.


----------



## Supe

Do you have a picture of the offending parts? Or even a link so I can see the design?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's the arms on the left. All of the movement was on the silver end.






This link has a better description and more pics:

http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/manufacturers/chevrolet/spohn-rear-trailing-arms-w-del-sphere-pivot-joints-2008-2013-camaro-v6-camaro-ss-g8-c10-205


----------



## Supe

What were the problems that when away? Johnny joints are not very prone to failure without a history of wear. I wonder if there is an issue on the pickup point of the chassis?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I think it's a combo of two issues:

1) The bolt has a smaller diameter than the hole in the ferrule (0.46" bolt vs 0.50" opening, the OEM bushing opening is 0.48")

2) The ferrule is too short.

There are spacers on either end of the ferrule (held in place with the ziptie in the pic above), I think those spacers are too big and prevent the bolt from properly "clamping" the ferrule in the chassis. Then, any movement is accented by the fact the bolt is smaller than the ferrule. One thought I had was possible running without the spacers, but they included them for a reason, right?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Here is what they look like installed. The trailing arm is the lower one in the pic and the joint that is moving is on the left:


----------



## Supe

Did they not provide replacement hardware? Many of the aftermarket manufacturers will have you drill out the mounting locations for 1/2" hardware, rather than OEM metric. I can tell you from experience, a 12mm bolt in a 1/2" hole will move A LOT more than you would ever imagine, and will clunk around.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I reused OEM bolts per their instructions. In this case, the nut on the far side of the picture (on the end where the movement was happening) is welded into place so there really is no chance to "upsize" the bolt without some serious cutting/welding.


----------



## Supe

I would contact Spohn. Theres a good possibility they pressed the wrong bushing into that end...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

They were sent back to Spohn earlier this week. Now I just play the waiting game.

On another note, Mrs Dex is starting to get a bit peeved by all of my work on the Camaro and really is not a fan of having me constantly under the car trying to fix things (or having to listen to me complain about needing to fix things). She is advocating that I just trade in the Camaro. After several discussions, we've narrowed it down to a couple options:

1) Wait through the winter and see what the 2016 Camaros will bring. There are some very promising rumors that I'd be able to get a pretty sick upgraded version. If I don't like the 2016's, it would still be early enough to order a 2015 with the options I like. Meanwhile I would continue working on Bee to hopefully get everything fixed. Pro: Get the car I'm trying to build much sooner (buy it now vs build it over time), some parts could transfer to new car making it even better. Con: More expensive, still dealing with repairs on Bee, would have to de-mod &amp; sell parts to help make it work.

2) Trade it in now. There are a few options out there that are very intriguing. Possible options would be a 2014 ZL1 Camaro, a Caddy CTS-V, or a SRT8 Grand Cherokee. (Link to actual cars I'm looking at). Pro: Newer car now Con: more expensive, no real time to de-mod Bee to recover money spent on aftermarket parts, trade in value on Bee would be lower because dealers hate having RWD cars on their lot just before winter hits.

I like the idea of option #1 because it defers any decision to next spring. Nothing has to be done now, used cars will continue to show-up.

Mrs Dex said there would be absolutely no modifying anything performance-wise on new cars (she also said no more mods on Bee. She is a huge fan of the SRT8 because it has 4WD and would mean I would have no problems getting to work year round.

Edit: I am also considering a 2-day trip to Salt Lake City to visit a Camaro specialty shop to have them go over the car to see if they can find any problems. I know there are hundreds of shops that are closer, but this shop is one that specializes in modified 2010+ Camaros and Corvettes.


----------



## Supe

Finish Bee, keep it, be happy. There is no such thing as buying a fun car and leaving it alone.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Don't get me wrong, I love my car. I'm just getting frustrated with constantly having to address something. Most of my irritations stem from the fact that I am OCD about my car and any squeak, knock, clunk, rattle, etc have to be fixed. I'm not convinced the rear suspension is actually fixed, but rather simply masked by putting soft parts back on. Now it sounds like the power steering is straining when the car is first started and I make the first couple hard turns (like backing out of a parking spot).

Part of me is stubborn and thinks that I'm only one thing away from getting it fixed, but the other part of me thinks I am only a hard bump away from breaking something serious and being completely out of a working car.


----------



## csb

I'm for #1, but then you'd be listening to the person who hasn't had a car in over a month.


----------



## FLBuff PE

^You should get a pair of XC skis for the days when the big snow storms hit!


----------



## csb




----------



## knight1fox3

I WANT MY 2 DOLLARS!!!






_&lt;Cue triumphant movie music&gt;_


----------



## NJmike PE

+100000 :thumbs:


----------



## snickerd3

csb said:


>


that looks like it would cost a lot of $$


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Don't get me wrong, I love my car. I'm just getting frustrated with constantly having to address something. Most of my irritations stem from the fact that I am OCD about my car and any squeak, knock, clunk, rattle, etc have to be fixed. I'm not convinced the rear suspension is actually fixed, but rather simply masked by putting soft parts back on. Now it sounds like the power steering is straining when the car is first started and I make the first couple hard turns (like backing out of a parking spot).
> 
> Part of me is stubborn and thinks that I'm only one thing away from getting it fixed, but the other part of me thinks I am only a hard bump away from breaking something serious and being completely out of a working car.




The OCD issues are not going to change with a new car, especially one that is a performance oriented model. That will only get worse with age. There are only so many ways a suspension can fail. I don't foresee you shearing off mounting points any time soon. I RACED a car with a broken/cross threaded toe link...

Don't overthink it or cave to your wife. Get it done, and stop worrying. Otherwise, you will just be repeating the cycle over again, which will be WAY more expensive in the long run.


----------



## MA_PE

ah the old hobby car/family balance. It's a dilemma that stretches back for years. With young kids active in all kinds of exta-curricula activities it's hard as heck to find time for both the car and the kiddos.

I suspect this was behind Mrs. Dex's caveat "Mrs Dex said there would be absolutely no modifying anything performance-wise on new cars (she also said no more mods on Bee."

Hope you can work it out Dex. I vote keep Bee.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Her three big concerns are that I have a reliable car to get to work with (i.e. not in pieces in the garage, or being forced to have it towed again), that she really doesn't like me driving it in the winter, and that she hates how much money I've "thrown away" on the car (since you never recover money spent on cars).


----------



## blybrook PE

^ You forgot her monthly hooker, bacon &amp; blow allotment again, didn't you?


----------



## MA_PE

Dexman PE said:


> Her three big concerns are that I have a reliable car to get to work with (i.e. not in pieces in the garage, or being forced to have it towed again), that she really doesn't like me driving it in the winter, and that she hates how much money I've "thrown away" on the car (since you never recover money spent on cars).


With the possible exception of the 4WD Jeep none of your performance cars are "good" winter cars. People drove RWD cars for a long time in snow so it can be done.
The reason your car was in pieces is because you took it apart and were tinkering with it. New, old or in-between no one is perfect and when you're putzing around with it the potential always exists to end up with a disabled vehicle.

Cars, especially daily drivers are always money losers. Again, I think you're putting money into Bee because you want to and not because you have to. You're not repairing you're upgrading/improving it because you like doing it. Aftermarket money is typically lost. You said "would have to de-mod &amp; sell parts to help make it work". You won't get retail back on your parts either.

Net result: do you what you want and what you feel you'll be happiest with.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I know I can drive Bee in the winter because I've done it each of the last 2 winters (I don't count the first winter because I parked it and drove the company truck). Mrs Dex and I know it's not the best, but she would prefer I drove something better. We've had a couple snowstorms where I've been forced to stay home (almost everyone else stayed home too), and a couple others that have made getting home very difficult. She just hates having that in the back of her mind when making plans from December through March. An example of this is I mentioned that I am considering taking Bee to a specialty shop in SLC, but due to a number of factors wouldn't be able to do that until November. She won't let me drive that far that late in the fall because I would have to go through some potentially nasty weather areas.

She would prefer I focus on the functional side more than the fun/toy side. She really likes the Jeep for that reason and because she knows it still has a good performance element to it.

My response to everything is that there is no way I will refrain from tinkering with my car. I have messed with everything I've owned. Granted, Bee is the furthest I've ever taken a car down the modification side (it's also the longest I've owned a car). She knows I will always mess with my cars. I think she hopes that if I start with a better car that I won't mess with it as much, which I can say is probably true.

On the flip side, the mods I've done over the last year or so were as far as I wanted to take it while it was still a daily driver. My next round would involve some serious engine/drivetrain mods that would make it a lot less fun to drive in rush hour traffic (420hp is already pushing it, I would not want to ride the clutch with 700hp). I just happened to get unlucky at the very end and ended up installing a gremlin. Working on said gremlin has been VERY frustrating. Tools have been thrown, tools have been broken.


----------



## Supe

I wouldn't consider it "throwing away money." I find it a bit comical that she complains about Bee, but is willing to let you fork out the cash for an SRT8 Jeep, a ZL1, or a CTS-V, none of which are exactly bargain finds or necessary in any way.


----------



## Supe

Horsepower has nothing to do with your clutch's traffic driving abilities. Huge pedal effort is a thing of the past. I've got the hookup for a twin disc clutch that's baby soft and will hold 1200 HP all day long...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

A new twin disc is on the to-do list...


----------



## Road Guy

I've always wanted to fix up one of the jeeps I had but just never had the money... I can't really comment on what to get... I know if I didn't have 3 kids I would have a jeep XJ (4 door jeep)..... However , What I want is not in the cards at the moment...

I do really want to put a 3 inch lift on the old tahoe I have when I buy new tires for its so I can get some bigger tires, but probably won't just cause it's not really worth it, won't make it that much better for the snow, but would help for off road activities (accessing better less crowded hiking trails)...wish I could defer that decision a year but I am going to need new tire before snow season starts..

Back to smaller decisions..for the plasti dip, did you use the grit? I'm also going to do my rear view windows black for shits and giggles to try and break up the 90's style hunter green....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

No grit. I just used the plain rattle can plasti-dip


----------



## knight1fox3

Any thoughts on this? Seems pretty reasonable to me. Corresponding Android app is like $5 I think.

http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Interface-Scanner-Adapter-Android/dp/B005M1AVFQ#productDetails


----------



## NJmike PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Any thoughts on this?  Seems pretty reasonable to me.  Corresponding Android app is like $5 I think.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Interface-Scanner-Adapter-Android/dp/B005M1AVFQ#productDetails


It's good for engine codes. My neighbor has a similar one. However these kinds don't pick up other sensor codes (ie. abs)


----------



## MA_PE

I bought this one for $20 a while ago.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JTRXKQQ?psc=1

and I use a $5 iphone app called Engine Link. It allows you to reset fault codes. For a total out lay &lt;$30 I thought it was ok.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Fuck this car. Now I have a potential axle failure. Hopefully it's only the boot, but with my luck I'm looking at another $500 repair...


----------



## engineergurl

Didn't you make fun of my 12 year old car? I'm thinking it's going to outlast yours at the rate you are going Dex...


----------



## snickerd3

so did you win csb?


----------



## Road Guy

hope it is just the boot!

sadly some local won the jeep Cherokee.. I was truly hoping it would have been someone from here.. I never win anything so I only bought one ticket but didn't expect to win....


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; that plasti dip stuff is pretty awesome, much improvement over the "DIP" that you had to actually dip from the 90's..

I am going to have to re do my side view mirrors cause I forgot I had (insert random kid activity parent meeting for the weekend) Number 6 Sunday night and it was raining when I left so it got messed up before it fully dried..


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE said:


> Fuck this car. Now I have a potential axle failure. Hopefully it's only the boot, but with my luck I'm looking at another $500 repair...




Looks like a boot tear only. If you broke an axle, you would know it. If you're lucky, that's an easy repair. They like to spring load the half shafts, and usually don't bother with C clips to hold it in. My Ford IRS shafts were like that - you could knock them out of the pumpking with a few soft blows of a hammer, and then just push the axle outboard. Its made so you can remove the diff if necessary without having to disassemble the outer hubs.


----------



## Supe

Ordered new rotors and pads for the Astra. Rear pads and rotors were shot after ebrake froze up last winter, and the fronts are nearing the end of their life anyways. Given how I drive the thing, I'm surprised I got 70K+ miles out of them. Ordered from Rock Auto, got new pads, rotors, ebrake cable, and two sets of wiper blades for $211. That's tough to beat! Pads are decent ceramics, supposed to be similar in makeup to a Hawk HPS, so I hope they have better bite than the stock organics which are GARBAGE. They go from nothing, nothing, nothing to ABS kicking in.

May do them this weekend, but I'm about ready to start my transmission installation in the RX7. I need to bench bleed the clutch master, route the TOB line, and bleed the TOB assembly before I install it, but then I'm ready to replace the pilot bushing, bolt up the clutch, measure for correct TOB clearance/shims, and then pray that it all fits togethers. I'm SUPER nervous about that part, since it's all been measuring and educated guessing up to this point... If it fits, then I can fab a crossmember, order a driveshaft, and the drivetrain will be done.

This pic is about two weeks old, but not much has changed other than the seat being mocked up and the pedal pads installed.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I'm trying to figure out what I'm doing with my brakes. It needs new pads, but about half the people I talk to say I have to replace the rotors because they can't be resurfaced. The other half say I can just scuff up the current rotors with sandpaper and be fine (so long as they aren't grooved). If I only replace pads, I'll probably go with the Hawk HPS. They are the only thing that work on a daily driver that beat the OEMs (most say the OEMs are close to the best I can get).

If I have to replace the rotors too, I'm thinking of going with some Stillen drilled/slotted. They aren't that much more expensive than OEM but have better cooling.


----------



## Supe

My $.02, don't use drilled rotors. Slotted are fine. Drilled rotors are notorious for a) caking up with garbage, and b) cracking around the holes. Even when they don't crack through, they craze crack, which wears your pads down faster. There really is no advantage.


----------



## Road Guy

Supe, where does the 8-track go?

Man I don't know if I have the patience to do that type of build but it does look pretty sweet!


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Supe, where does the 8-track go?
> 
> Man I don't know if I have the patience to do that type of build but it does look pretty sweet!




Believe it or not, the dash actually goes back in there, and covers everything in there except the tops of the master cylinder reservoirs in the middle of the windshield.

I don't have the patience to do it either, I guess thats why I don't do it for a living anymore...

So I go to put my clutch in this weekend, when I see a suspect helicoil in the crank bolt holes (I knew there were two in there, one looked "weird".)

So I look closely at them both - one was installed incorrectly, and only has about three usable threads in it. The rest are mangled in a ball down in the bolt hole. Had to fish that one out, re-tap, and install a new helicoil.

Now the other one... the asshole drilled the hole too big! The coil could literally be pushed in by hand, and didn't even attempt to tighten up! It must have cross-threaded itself last time the flywheel was installed to have even snugged up.

So, I have ordered an EZ-lok insert, which is a 9/16-12 outside thread, and a 7/16-20 inside thread. Because its such a thin insert, you actually have a shorter thread engagement on the OD, and have to oversize the hole juuuust past 9/16 before tapping. I ordered the correct tap, drill bit, and insert off Amazon, should be here tomorrow.

If that doesn't work (with a f*ckload of red loctite), then I'm SOL and will likely need a new motor (rebuild after removing/replacing crankshaft isn't worth it). I should note that another Helicoil or Timesert won't work, because the OD of the hole would result in too much material removal to accomodate a 7/16" ID bolt.


----------



## Ble_PE

It's not quite on the same level as some of the things your folks are doing, but I changed the transmission fluid and replaced the spark plugs in my cr-v this weekend. I've got a few other things I need to do now that it's over 100k miles, but it's still running great and I plan on driving it for several more years.


----------



## Supe

I also did some work to a CRV this weekend (2005 model). The GF's window regulator failed. The support cable has two little ferrules on the ID of the plastic piece, and one of them snapped. Dealership wanted $500 to fix. I called bullshit.

Ordered the part for $65 off Rock Auto. Honda did a nice job with the door design. Had a huge hole in there to remove/install it through. 1 electrical plug, 3 10mm bolts for the motor, 4 10mm bolts for the regulator assembly, 2 10mm bolts attaching the glass to the regulator. It took longer to figure out how to get the damned door panel off and on than it did to replace the regulator. Took me about 45 minutes altogether, all I needed was a single socket, a small pry bar, and a phillips head screw driver to do it. 15 minutes of that was me trying to figure out how I f'd up the door lock, but then I realized it only "works" when the door is latched...

I barely even had any parts left over when I was done!


----------



## Road Guy

I waxed my Tahoe old School yesterday (by hand-no orbital buffer, I must have sold it before I moved at our garage sale from hell). wasn't too bad, I applied the wax and then delegated the removal to my 3 kids. really saved me a lot of time  I just had to supervise.. made them put two coats on the front and rear where it takes a pretty good beating when it snows..

it would look nice it if wasn't green...

Im getting new tires this week. getting the Pro-Comp version of the BF Goodrich Al Terrain-winter tires.. 4 Wheel Parts is offering me 1 free alloy rim if I have a whole set put on with the tires. So that would make my $800 tires run about $1200....

Someone talk me out of the black alloy rims?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

There are much better tires out there than the BF Goodriches for the same (if not lower) price. The All-Terrains have been riding their name for 15 years and haven't changed anything, whereas most of the other brands have been improving treadlife, grip, compounds, etc and can far exceed the BFG's now. The BFG's do look good though.

We use the Bridgestone Dueller Revo's on Mrs Dex's Jeep and they are absolute rockstars.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&amp;tireModel=Dueler+A%2FT+Revo+2


----------



## Road Guy

yes you are paying for their name..

I'm getting a little more beefier tire than those, these are not the exact ones, these are similar but they have the snow grooves in them. I had a very similar model from them that went an easy 50,000 miles and almost exhibited no wear and they practically deflect nails and such..

I think next month I start driving to Greeley 2-3 times a week (company vehicle) so that will cut down on some the mileage I will loose with these for a while...

Some of the places our scout troop goes I really need a true off road tire but you have to make comprises..


----------



## Supe

EZ-Lok inserts for the win!!

15 minutes of drilling, tapping, and screwing (heh heh), and that insert was in solid. I had to open up the ID of the hub bore on the flywheel some to fit the crank, but the flywheel is on, torqued to 65 ft/lbs, loctited in place, and the clutch is now installed. It was a bit of a magic act getting everything centered with the twin discs, so I'm hoping the rest of the install goes smoothly.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Bee will be off to the shop tomorrow and Friday.

List of things to be done:

Install stainless brake lines

Brake fluid flush/upgrade to DOT4

Upgrade front calipers to larger 6-piston

upgrade rotors to larger fronts &amp; all 4 will be dimpled/slotted

Performance brake pads

Install upgraded fuel pump

Install new rear upper control arms

replace passenger side axle

Re-install new rear trailing arms

Overall suspension check/investigate clunk noises.

I don't even want to think how much this will cost (although I have a spreadsheet tracking how much it will be).


----------



## csb

I never updated this-I sold my car to an auction place.


----------



## Road Guy

Dex- u selling a kidney?

CSB- hope you got a decent amount for it?


----------



## MA_PE

csb said:


> I never updated this-I sold my car to an auction place.


sold is better than just abandoning it with no return. I hope you did well.

Dex: we want a gopro video of you pulling some serious g's.


----------



## csb

I got about a thousand bucks for it, which is way better than local scrap yards were willing to do, plus the company towed it away. I didn't feel right trying to sell it on Craigslist. DamagedCars.com is who we went through and it was easy peasy.

I've been experimenting with what it might look like to just not own a car since August. Last weekend I rented a car on a super cheap weekend rate ($38.93 total for Friday-Monday) and did some running around. I went ahead and rented another car for Thanksgiving weekend to go see the husband's family. So far I've only had a handful of times where I thought, "DANG. I wish I had a car right now." My mind may change in snow, but for now it's been okay.

I'll now get out of here. "Get a car, hippie!"


----------



## Supe

I f*cking hate crappy clutch alignment tools and the fact that my mother f'ing trans is about 1/32" out of alignment with the pilot bearing, and its enough to make it not seat, which means I will probably have to disassemble the entire f'ing thing again...


----------



## mudpuppy

csb said:


> "Get a car, hippie!"




You beat me to it.


----------



## Krakosky

I'm having so many issues with my car lately. Today either the idler pulley or the belt its on broke which both were replaced about a year ago. The engine was making weird noises and starting to overheat. So we had to pull over and get it towed now. Aside from that there is the oil leak and who knows what else.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

New ones are nice. When I was in my teens and 20's, I pretty much drove POS cars and trucks, and I worked on them weekly, now I enjoy riding newer vehicles and not worrying so much about worn out broke down cars. On the plus side, I learned how to take care of most problems on my cars.


----------



## knight1fox3




----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The 1LE Camaro destroyed the new Mustang GT Track Pack. You want comfort, get the Mustang, but if you want power and performance get the Camaro.

Best part is the 2016 Camaro is changing platforms to a lighter chassis and a better LT1 engine which means it will only get better.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Here is a pic of Bee just after the work was done in Utah. I didn't have a chance to wash it after the 8-hr drive, but I still think it looks good.


----------



## MetsFan

^^ Love that car. It needs the autobot symbol on the side though


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The ones on the fender look dumb. I have one on the hood just above the mail-slot and one on the roof just above the rear window.


----------



## MetsFan

I like it, as long as it doesn't also say Camaro there.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ That's Bumblebee from Transformers 3. The production "Transformers Edition" comes with those badges, but they have chrome and I don't like chrome.

Mine is modeled more like the TF2 version which was the official reveal of what was supposed to be the Z28 but ended up being the ZL1 (also minus the chrome, and I do have the red bowtie I only put it on for shows):


----------



## knight1fox3

> *2016 Ford Bronco coming back after 20 years*
> After about 20 years, Ford will be bringing back 2016 Ford Bronco with the concept discussed in 2004. This model is mostly based on Ford Atlas and if this becomes popular will again start the market of two doors 4 X 4 SUV. So you can understand that this is a two door vehicle with powerful engine of SUV category.




http://bestcarsof2015.com/2016-ford-bronco/


----------



## blybrook PE

^Uh, my neighbor kids tonka toy looks like that. Probably better made too...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The other pics of that I saw on the interwebs yesterday were a lot more flattering. I don't like it at all.


----------



## Supe

So my father is picking up an Outback instead of buying my Saturn (it was local and the price was hard to beat). After driving the Blue Ridge Parkway painstakingly slow this weekend, I realized how much I miss having a fun street car, and I am torn - do I trade in the Saturn knowing I won't get shit in return and take on a payment for a used DD that I will enjoy more but won't be ideal, or do I suck it up and just drive the Astra until it fails? Or, do I buy another "fun" car cash and keep the Astra, e.g. C4 Corvette?


----------



## Krakosky

What about your 18.5' boat?


----------



## Supe

Krakosky said:


> What about your 18.5' boat?




That is not exactly a crisp handling performance machine. That is a cruiser. Well, theoretically, if it ever comes back from paint.


----------



## MA_PE

sounds like you want a fun DD and not just another toy, so why bother hanging on to the Saturn? I'd say pursue either of the other options (buying a less expensive fun car cash and sell the Saturn on your own, or trading the Saturn and getting something newer). Just adding another vehicle to the stable and hanging onto the Saturn seems superfluous to me.


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> sounds like you want a fun DD and not just another toy, so why bother hanging on to the Saturn? I'd say pursue either of the other options (buying a less expensive fun car cash and sell the Saturn on your own, or trading the Saturn and getting something newer). Just adding another vehicle to the stable and hanging onto the Saturn seems superfluous to me.




The only reason I would hang on to the Saturn would be that most other fun DD's will not allow me to transport the dogs, but the Saturn will. Also, the GF's CRV is getting up there in mileage, so it would be nice to have a backup just in case.

Some of what I've seen locally in the sub-$10K cash range includes older M3's (too expensive to maintain), some decent C4 Corvettes (possibility), and the occasional supercharged or tubo Miata, though its impossible not to look like a vagina in one.


----------



## Road Guy

those 70's bronco's were bad ass. they used to plow through places my CJ5 would have issues with... I don't like the futuristic look of it but if they make a more normal version I would seriously consider it (but it would have to have the 3 speed shift on the column)


----------



## csb

It took me forever to figure out that "a fun DD" was a daily driver.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> It took me forever to figure out that "a fun DD" was a daily driver.




I have no problem riding either one.


----------



## Lumber Jim

It is my understand that the picture of the bronco that was posted is the 2004 concept.

I'm guessing that it now looks closer to this after 10 years:







weren't the old broncos more or less an F150 that was shortened with a cab that extends all the way to the rear?

(although the caption in the picture does say April fools...  )


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Full-size Bronco vs the Bronco II.

Supe,

I vote fun daily driver. But I'm biased. Just be careful with modifying it.


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> *2016 Ford Bronco coming back after 20 years*
> After about 20 years, Ford will be bringing back 2016 Ford Bronco with the concept discussed in 2004. This model is mostly based on Ford Atlas and if this becomes popular will again start the market of two doors 4 X 4 SUV. So you can understand that this is a two door vehicle with powerful engine of SUV category.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://bestcarsof2015.com/2016-ford-bronco/
Click to expand...

well i hope it doesn't look like that...totally unoriginal. i see at least 3 different body styles of cars already on the market.


----------



## Road Guy

I was referring to the



se (late 60's)


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Full-size Bronco vs the Bronco II.
> 
> Supe,
> 
> I vote fun daily driver. But I'm biased. Just be careful with modifying it.




I have been seeing a lot of C4 Corvettes around here in great shape for sale in the $8k range (even the later LT1/LT4 models). The beauty about those, is that my boss knows everything about C4 vettes and has spares of pretty much every part imaginable since he races one.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Another plus for a Vette (NJMike, take note):


----------



## Supe

[SIZE=medium]http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4665510978.html[/SIZE]

[SIZE=11pt]http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4689915284.htmlhttp://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/4689915284.html[/SIZE]

A few examples of what I've been seeing, some in pretty nice shape. Asking price is too high, but $7500 is reasonable for ones in decent shape.


----------



## MA_PE

I seem to recall that the optispark on the LT1 is trouble prone. I like the green '93.


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> I seem to recall that the optispark on the LT1 is trouble prone. I like the green '93.




They are, and they all will fail. Thankfully not as hard to replace on the Corvettes as it was the F bodies. You can actually do it just by removing the accessories. No need to pull the radiator, just the water pump. If you get a 95 or 96 model year, they used a vented optispark that is not as prone to failure.


----------



## akwooly

Road Guy said:


> I was referring to the
> 
> 
> 
> se (late 60's)


oh i love the the late 60 early 70s broncos!


----------



## engineergurl

I spy a DOD tag on that bronco


----------



## Road Guy

so we make a run to the home depot last night. dog comes with us. on the way home, dog has diarrhea all over the car. Thank god for leather seats, but are there any options other than just setting my car on fire? Also difficult to clean when its 18 degrees out last night... cleaning supplies kept freezing..

fucking ugly mess


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Sometimes, it's just better to pay the pros:

http://www.denversmobiledetail.com/


----------



## Supe

This is one I agree with Dex on. Just foot the money for a good detailer. You're not going to get that out with some windex and paper towels.


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> so we make a run to the home depot last night. dog comes with us. on the way home, dog has diarrhea all over the car. Thank god for leather seats, but are there any options other than just setting my car on fire? Also difficult to clean when its 18 degrees out last night... cleaning supplies kept freezing..
> 
> fucking ugly mess


OMG, that would really suck!

Have you tried any of these? Worked well trying to get various odors out of a used car we used to have.

http://www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant-freon/odor-eliminator?filterByKeyWord=odor&amp;fromString=search

I also like this stuff too:

http://www.autozone.com/interior-detailing-and-car-care-products/carpet-upholstery-cleaner/febreze-fabric-spray-odor-cleaner/419782_0_0/


----------



## MA_PE

Yuck!


----------



## Road Guy

I guess in 8 years with the dog never had this before. She must be sick, she woke me up every 2 hours last night to go out and do the same, @ 3 AM I just left her outside. we do have a doggie door into the garage from the backyard..so she wouldn't freeze to death..

there is an overpriced detailer shop by my work but they are closed today due to the cold... I may try that place dex listed..

I am gonna hit up auto zone at lunch to see what can get me by... I tried using a car carpet shampoo thing last night but it literally froze!


----------



## Supe

I will say to treat it in the meantime, use an enzyme-based cleaner. Most pet stores/walmart will carry them.


----------



## Supe

Stanley Steemer also does automotive interior. Worth giving them a shot.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Stanley Steemer also does automotive interior. Worth giving them a shot.


Stanley did a steamer in the interior. I doubt RG wants another one.


----------



## Krakosky

I had cat piss on my cloth car seats after taking one of the female cats to the vet. The 2 girls piss in their carrier every time and it got out and all over my seat. Hot steamy days do not mix well with cat piss. Got an interior detail and that seemed to get the stank out.


----------



## mudpuppy

Nature's miracle can work wonders (enzyme cleaner like Supe mentioned).


----------



## MA_PE

can you get the car in the garage? bring it in and let it warm up. try another cleaner in the morning.

I wonder what she got into. It's tough on the pets (and yours is a good one) they don't want to make a mess either, but they have no alternative.


----------



## Road Guy

I will give that a try when I get home..(garage) our garage stays pretty warm so far... just bad timing last night. If it wasn't below freezing it wouldn't be so bad to clean out if you can dig it!

I could tell she felt bad, we take for granted how good she normally is...


----------



## Lumber Jim

MA_PE said:


> can you get the car in the garage? bring it in and let it warm up. try another cleaner in the morning.
> 
> I wonder what she got into. It's tough on the pets (and yours is a good one) they don't want to make a mess either, but they have no alternative.


If you let it run for a while with the heat on high it should warm up enough to clean. but then again the smell may stay in the cabin air filter for a while even after you get the goo off your seats... ick.


----------



## Road Guy

it didn't smell that bad when I went to lunch. got some new cleaners, will hit it again tonight!


----------



## FLBuff PE

I am going to be replacing the plugs and wires on my '01 Blazer for the first time, maybe this weekend. Also the right front hub assembly. Also the left outer tie rod, both inner tie rods, and the right idler arm. I'm not concerned with the plugs, wires or hub assembly, but has anyone else on here done much steering assembly work? How difficult is it?


----------



## blybrook PE

Be sure to have a pickle fork and / or a pitman arm puller to help get things apart (along with a BFH). When disassembling the tie rod end, count the turns to make sure you et the new one back on in almost the same position.

With the right tools, the job is fairly easy to accomplish.

Be prepared to go to the shop for an alignment when your done; no matter how careful you are, things will get buggered up.


----------



## Supe

Like bly said, ball joint/tie rod removal is usually the biggest PITA. I've had some that required pickle fork and air hammer to get off, and others that have come off with a few taps, just hit or miss. You may want to have some steering rack boots in waiting if you're doing inner tie rods depending on what kind of shape they're in. Easy to tear, and not a bad maintenance item to replace while its apart. Keep some cotter pins handy too, as I like to replace them on castle nuts rather than trying to bend them back into shape.


----------



## snickerd3

woohoo....spent $300 on the regular maintenance of my car on saturday and will be spending another $900 on tires later this week.


----------



## snickerd3

bonus I did manage to get almost 80,000 miles on the original factory supplied 60,000 mile rated tires.


----------



## snickerd3

snickerd3 said:


> woohoo....spent $300 on the regular maintenance of my car on saturday and will be spending another $900 on tires later this week.


tires should be in tomorrow!! they had to order them.


----------



## csb

This reminds me: Three months, no car ownership.


----------



## Road Guy

I will remember that when I turn on my seat warmers on the way home!

So this past weekend I showed 15 year old Junior RG how to change the oil in a car. He actually seemed to take an interest in it...two years ago I tried to enlist him as a helper one a brake replacement job I was doing and he wasn't too keen on giving a shit.. maybe the closer they get to driving the more of an interest they take...

I had taken a year &amp; half hiatus from changing my own oil when we moved &amp; I didn't have the stuff handy to do it (I kept the tools boxed up when we were at the rental house). yeah its a hassle, now I have to dump this used motor oil on my neighbors lawn at night.. and I apparently up-selled myself on an air filer, cabin filter ,and some other shit (damn I have to stop talking to myself)


----------



## mudpuppy

Any automotive store will take your used oil. But I'm lazy and pour it down the storm sewer.

(J/K!)


----------



## NJmike PE

You're supposed to change the oil?


----------



## snickerd3

bonus! The tires I ordered are running a rebate right now too. I'll be able to get $80 back.


----------



## Ramnares P.E.

Ordered CR1632 for my fob key. Replacement should arrive next week. Hope the current battery doesn't die while I'm driving to OH.


----------



## Supe

Got a decent amount of work done on the car during my vacation. Driver's side "door" is mounted and now latches with a nifty cable latch setup from McMaster. The fiberglass is too flimsy around the "window frame", so I will be cutting the door in half and permanently affixing the top half to the car so only the bottom half of the door opens/closes.

Welded a bunch of dzus tabs on for the passenger side door, which will just be pinned on and otherwise non-functional.

Brackets to hold on front brake ducts were welded and brake ducts mounted. I can now remove the nose of the car while the duct work stays in place.

Got my side skirts framed out. I do need to make a forward support bracket for them, as they're not as rigid as they need to be to handle bumps/debris.

Once that is done, I need to make a radiator intake duct which should take me an afternoon. Also need to make a new splitter for the car, also not a big deal. Then its on to electrical, plumbing, and body work. My goal was to have it done by late February to have it on display at the Motorsports Expo in Charlotte. I don't think that's going to happen, but it almost seems like there's an end in sight where there wasn't before.


----------



## Supe




----------



## Krakosky

Supe,

What about your car you mentioned in Asheville? Any word on that paint job?


----------



## Krakosky

csb said:


> This reminds me: Three months, no car ownership.


This is impressive. Are you still looking at getting one or officially decided to be car free?


----------



## NJmike PE

Krakosky said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> This reminds me: Three months, no car ownership.
> 
> 
> 
> This is impressive. Are you still looking at getting one or officially decided to be car free?
Click to expand...

C. Weird


----------



## Supe

Krakosky said:


> Supe,
> 
> What about your car you mentioned in Asheville? Any word on that paint job?


Nope. Though that reminds me, it's time to check in on the painter again in a few weeks to see if he's still alive...


----------



## csb

Krakosky said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> This reminds me: Three months, no car ownership.
> 
> 
> 
> This is impressive. Are you still looking at getting one or officially decided to be car free?
Click to expand...

I had said December, but I'm not ready. I told the used dealer I've been working with to check with me in the spring. He is really nice and said that he was impressed.







Just me, the homeless and the drunks until I buy a used Jetta SportsWagen.


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> Just me, the homeless and the drunks until I buy a used *Jetta SportsWagen*.


And you think you had maintenance issues before? :lmao:


----------



## snickerd3

and they will cost more to boot.


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> and they will cost more to boot.


Especially if you need replacement parts for them.


----------



## Supe

So they're now proposing a total rewrite of the rules for the class I was building my car for. Most of the rules are written around trying to keep assholes like me out of the class with severely hacked up lightweight bodies, etc. Found out who proposed the new rules, and it's a guy in a shitty BMW who runs the class but is considerably slower than the rest of the field.

Time to kill those proposed rules!


----------



## knight1fox3

^^^


----------



## Road Guy

Ok dumb question..

I picked up a CB radio the other day (yeah Im bringing it back) - Hoping it will provide info and entertainment while driving through blizzards in the Rockies..

How do I wire the electric to the battery but rig it so that it only draws power when the ignition is switched to "on"?

Road Guy 70-70 - 10-9? Comeback wolfman!


----------



## MA_PE

In the old days, I'd run the wire to the fuse box and tap into something that is only powered when the ignition is on...like the radio. the additional draw of the CB shouldn't blow a fuse. See if there an Accessory circuit you tap into. I never went directly to the battery.

break 1-9 break 1-9 how about a smokey report?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGwUSAuygtU


----------



## Road Guy

that's it! I knew there was an easier / smarter way.. thanks!

I am really looking forward to it, I am also hoping it will provide some entertainment on my daily commute as well...

some of the others dads in our scout troop have them and down in the valleys way way in the mountains cell signals don't exist. figured it would be fun / beneficial for those outings as well


----------



## csb

AND...I'm never buying a car again. They cost money.


----------



## blybrook PE

I'm about to toss a 40 channel EF Johnson CB with SSB. It's utterly useless to me anymore. Almost everyone is using VHF business band radios and my HF radio can receive the 11m frequencies.

Recipient to pay shipping for a medium flat rate box. PM for details.


----------



## Road Guy

so your saying there is a reason it was only $20?

Im gonna give it a whirl, I am figuring with all the trucks that have to drive either through or around the Eisenhower Tunnell there should be some traffic when something is F'd up


----------



## blybrook PE

I'm saying I don't use it anymore and nor do any of the local truckers. Since I got my Ham license, it hasn't been hooked up in any truck (~'98) and has been moved three times since then.

Slowly downsizing extra gear...


----------



## csb

The Google Self-Driving Car, as illustrated by The Oatmeal


----------



## NJmike PE




----------



## MA_PE

I'm surprised no on posted about this.

the first 707hp Hellcat sold in Colorado gets wrecked about an hour after it leaves the dealership.

oops!

http://jalopnik.com/first-hellcat-sold-in-colorado-wrecked-an-hour-after-pu-1673994344


----------



## Road Guy

There are a lot of overzealous and reckless drivers in this state.,,

I'd say this is a good case of small penis that got out-of-control


----------



## Supe

Slowly making progress on the race car.

Driveshaft was built over vacation and went in with minimal complications, just had to shim the pinion up a bit to let the driveshaft yoke clear the rear subframe (it was hitting by a few thousands, you could just feel the drag on the yoke if you watched where it rubbed as you spun by hand).

Side exit exhaust is done. Just need to trim the exhaust outlet on one side down, as the whole system shifted when I tightened down the shitty ball and socket connectors on the headers. Exhaust exits through a heat shield that makes up part of the side skirts now.

Hood is still being worked on. Had to cut a bunch of holes in it, and then build up a few fiberglass lips around the openings. The hood was also short about 3/8" to 1/2" on either side when I got it, so I had to sand off the gelcoat and build up the edges with fiberglass laminate. I've also had to do the same to the corners of the hood near the windshield, but the cold weather is not letting my resin cure. I tried to kick start it with a heat gun last night, so fingers crossed.

I also got the oil filter adapter for the accusump installed. An accusump uses an electric valve to release pressurized oil in the event of a sudden drop in oil pressure (like under heavy braking or sweeping turns when the G forces move the oil in the pan away from the pickup).

Also started minor body work. Need my new MIG welder to show up next week to patch some rivet/bolt holes, but at least got started on the roof. Using a fairly high quality body filler, fairs out nicely but takes forever to sand.


----------



## Lumber Jim

^^ Pictures?


----------



## Supe

Will have to post some from home where Photobucket isn't blocked


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> I'm surprised no on posted about this.
> 
> the first 707hp Hellcat sold in Colorado gets wrecked about an hour after it leaves the dealership.
> 
> oops!
> 
> http://jalopnik.com/first-hellcat-sold-in-colorado-wrecked-an-hour-after-pu-1673994344


The guys in my local Camaro club were all over it. One of the guys actually went to the dealership the day before it was purchased/wrecked to possibly purchase it.

Here are some more details and pictures:

http://www.tflcar.com/2014/12/first-2015-dodge-challenger-hellcat-sold-in-colorado-crashed/


----------



## Supe

I call bullshit. GM guys don't buy Fiats


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I said possibly. He obviously didn't because it's been wrecked.


----------



## Supe

He must have been shopping in a trenchcoat and sunglasses.


----------



## Road Guy

I broke down and had a modern radio put in my old tahoe.... The Bluetooth feature that will play our music (via phones) with no wires is cool as shit.... The kids at the car audio place got a kick out of my AC/DC music I think.... Maybe I need to go back for a sub woofer and amp?


----------



## MA_PE

did you get a cassette or one of those new CD players?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I have a 12" sub and amp just sitting in my garage. Only needs a box. Trade you for the stripper pole...


----------



## Road Guy

I really have no need for the sub woofer.....&amp; I am having a hard time parting with the stripper pole..... What else yah got in trade?


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> I broke down and had a modern radio put in my old tahoe.... The Bluetooth feature that will play our music (via phones) with no wires is cool as shit.... The kids at the car audio place got a kick out of my AC/DC music I think.... Maybe I need to go back for a sub woofer and amp?


How much did the install (and parts) cost you? Just curious as I just did this at Best Buy. Did you use a similar provider?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

No one NEEDS a sub...


----------



## Road Guy

dex- LOL you are right!

KF - my wife got this set up through a friend at work who had used them, we used a quasi local place called Quality Audio Sound. It was out the door around $220. Kenwood radio, lots of bells and whistles, this kind of thing isn't my bag so I don't really know all the specs on the radio, but I am enjoying it.. I think the sticker on the radio was $159 or something. It was a pretty rough looking place that I would probably not have stopped at to be honest. Best Buys always irritate me but I am sure its the same service.. the Tahoe is an 02 and didn't have an aux jack so I had been playing music through the CASETTE deck! LOL

I had previously taken the car to "Car Toys" and there were around $315 for about the same set up. they claimed I would need a special part to deal with the onstar that I didn't really need..


----------



## engineergurl

Road Guy said:


> KF - my wife got this set up through a friend at work who had used them, we used a quasi local place called Quality Audio Sound. It was out the door around $220. Kenwood radio, lots of bells and whistles, this kind of thing isn't my bag so I don't really know all the specs on the radio, but I am enjoying it.. I think the sticker on the radio was $159 or something. It was a pretty rough looking place that I would probably not have stopped at to be honest. Best Buys always irritate me but I am sure its the same service.. the Tahoe is an 02 and didn't have an aux jack so I had been playing music through the CASETTE deck! LOL




We got one of those local broadcasting things for the jeep to address the same issue.


----------



## Road Guy

It has iheartradio? Does that use data? Or is that just digital radio? I haven't had time to thumb through the instruction booklet....


----------



## MetsFan

engineergurl said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> KF - my wife got this set up through a friend at work who had used them, we used a quasi local place called Quality Audio Sound. It was out the door around $220. Kenwood radio, lots of bells and whistles, this kind of thing isn't my bag so I don't really know all the specs on the radio, but I am enjoying it.. I think the sticker on the radio was $159 or something. It was a pretty rough looking place that I would probably not have stopped at to be honest. Best Buys always irritate me but I am sure its the same service.. the Tahoe is an 02 and didn't have an aux jack so I had been playing music through the CASETTE deck! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got one of those local broadcasting things for the jeep to address the same issue.
Click to expand...



Those were great, until you pulled up next to another car that had one and you started listening to their music.



Road Guy said:


> It has iheartradio? Does that use data? Or is that just digital radio? I haven't had time to thumb through the instruction booklet....




I think that would go through your phone's data.


----------



## FLBuff PE

I got a Bluetooth FM modulator adapter that plugs into the cig lighter for both my work truck ('08 Ford Ranger) and personal vehicle ('01 Chevy Blazer). It works really well for me, as there are plenty of FM radio stations that are empty up here in the mountains. When I travel down to Denver, though, I sometimes have trouble getting an empty FM station.


----------



## jeb6294

MetsFan said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> KF - my wife got this set up through a friend at work who had used them, we used a quasi local place called Quality Audio Sound. It was out the door around $220. Kenwood radio, lots of bells and whistles, this kind of thing isn't my bag so I don't really know all the specs on the radio, but I am enjoying it.. I think the sticker on the radio was $159 or something. It was a pretty rough looking place that I would probably not have stopped at to be honest. Best Buys always irritate me but I am sure its the same service.. the Tahoe is an 02 and didn't have an aux jack so I had been playing music through the CASETTE deck! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> We got one of those local broadcasting things for the jeep to address the same issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Those were great, until you pulled up next to another car that had one and you started listening to their music.
Click to expand...

I had one when I was in Afghanistan. The base had 2 radio stations and neither of them were great...they tended to play the same songs a lot. The radio didn't have an input so I got one of the FM doo dads so I could listen to my iPod. Every once in a while I'd run into a truck that had one on the same station as me because we'd swap music for a bit.


----------



## engineergurl

MetsFan said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> KF - my wife got this set up through a friend at work who had used them, we used a quasi local place called Quality Audio Sound. It was out the door around $220. Kenwood radio, lots of bells and whistles, this kind of thing isn't my bag so I don't really know all the specs on the radio, but I am enjoying it.. I think the sticker on the radio was $159 or something. It was a pretty rough looking place that I would probably not have stopped at to be honest. Best Buys always irritate me but I am sure its the same service.. the Tahoe is an 02 and didn't have an aux jack so I had been playing music through the CASETTE deck! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We got one of those local broadcasting things for the jeep to address the same issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> Those were great, until you pulled up next to another car that had one and you started listening to their music.
Click to expand...



Considering we do mostly Interstate or back country road driving, this isn't too big of an issue, plus I think that more and more cars have at least the Aux jack (our newer car does)


----------



## P-E

engineergurl said:


> MetsFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> KF - my wife got this set up through a friend at work who had used them, we used a quasi local place called Quality Audio Sound. It was out the door around $220. Kenwood radio, lots of bells and whistles, this kind of thing isn't my bag so I don't really know all the specs on the radio, but I am enjoying it.. I think the sticker on the radio was $159 or something. It was a pretty rough looking place that I would probably not have stopped at to be honest. Best Buys always irritate me but I am sure its the same service.. the Tahoe is an 02 and didn't have an aux jack so I had been playing music through the CASETTE deck! LOL
> 
> 
> 
> We got one of those local broadcasting things for the jeep to address the same issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Those were great, until you pulled up next to another car that had one and you started listening to their music.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Considering we do mostly Interstate or back country road driving, this isn't too big of an issue, plus I think that more and more cars have at least the Aux jack (our newer car does)
Click to expand...

I also had a cassette broadcaster until the car got broken into. Only thing they took. I may throw a boom box in the back seat - it would kinda fit the old neighborhood.


----------



## engineergurl

Hyundai SantaFe

Hyundai Genesis

Dodge Journey or Nitro

Dodge Avenger, Charger or Challenger

Mazda Cx9 (or 7)

Chevy Colorado

Dodge Ram 1500

Toyota FJ Cruiser

Jeep Wrangler

Any opinions? The last two are my top choices. I know they stopped making the FJ Cruiser (and I dislike the land cruiser) so I'm concerned about long term part availability. (and yes, I know the list is all over the place, but I don't know what I want. We already have a sedan (mazda 6) that gets good gas mileage that isn't too old and a Grand Cherokee so we'll still have a 4WD with a towing package and I don't care if the dogs get the inside dirty. But we want to purchase something before we NEED to and apparently, my husband thinks now is a good time (I still think we should wait until after we move because it's going to be the biggest PITA to register the thing and we'll probably pay taxes out the wazoo here).


----------



## DVINNY

I think that new Chevy Colorado truck looks great


----------



## csb

You guys with your fancy bluetooth know we use that to track your speeds, right?


----------



## csb

And I say wait until you NEED to buy something and wait at least 6 months more.


----------



## engineergurl

csb said:


> And I say wait until you NEED to buy something and wait at least 6 months more.






No. This is how you get sucked into buying something for not the right price, right now if we don't see what we like for what we want to pay for it we can walk away. And some of us can't ride a bike to work, have no public transportation available, and can't share a car with their spouse.


----------



## Road Guy

You know I will always vote for the Wrangler. But the FJ Cruiser has really grown on me. I am giving strong consideration to getting one and giving my 16 year old my Tahoe to abuse next year.

I wouldn't worry about getting parts. I drive an 02 vehicle and there is a massive market for parts out there


----------



## engineergurl

Road Guy said:


> You know I will always vote for the Wrangler. But the FJ Cruiser has really grown on me. I am giving strong consideration to getting one and giving my 16 year old my Tahoe to abuse next year.
> 
> I wouldn't worry about getting parts. I drive an 02 vehicle and there is a massive market for parts out there




Yes, I am very torn between these two... I think it will come down to $$$ in the end. The truck has additional distinct advantages, but we could always pick up a trailer to haul stuff.


----------



## knight1fox3

engineergurl said:


> Hyundai SantaFe
> 
> Hyundai Genesis
> 
> Dodge Journey or Nitro
> 
> Dodge Avenger, Charger or Challenger
> 
> Mazda Cx9 (or 7)
> 
> Chevy Colorado
> 
> Dodge Ram 1500
> 
> Toyota FJ Cruiser
> 
> Jeep Wrangler
> 
> Any opinions? The last two are my top choices. I know they stopped making the FJ Cruiser (and I dislike the land cruiser) so I'm concerned about long term part availability. (and yes, I know the list is all over the place, but I don't know what I want. We already have a sedan (mazda 6) that gets good gas mileage that isn't too old and a Grand Cherokee so we'll still have a 4WD with a towing package and I don't care if the dogs get the inside dirty. But we want to purchase something before we NEED to and apparently, my husband thinks now is a good time (I still think we should wait until after we move because it's going to be the biggest PITA to register the thing and we'll probably pay taxes out the wazoo here).


Have you checked any of these models on Consumer Reports? I was fairly shocked to see various makes from "the big 3" who got horrible marks in reliability in addition to other nuisances. Dodge/Chrysler being the biggest offender (which makes sense having worked at the Detroit axle plant with their "quality" engineering group).

That said, we've always has very good results from Hyundai and Infiniti.



csb said:


> You guys with your fancy bluetooth know we use that to track your speeds, right?


Not the Fox you don't.


----------



## csb

engineergurl said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> And I say wait until you NEED to buy something and wait at least 6 months more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No. This is how you get sucked into buying something for not the right price, right now if we don't see what we like for what we want to pay for it we can walk away. And some of us can't ride a bike to work, have no public transportation available, and can't share a car with their spouse.
Click to expand...



Totally joking.


----------



## mudpuppy

Dodge has long been known for bad quality. My buddy who works for Chrysler/Fiat tells me they're getting better but I personally would take a wait-and-see approach, except maybe a Wrangler since it has a non-Chrysler heritage.

Detroit area born and raised, I still couldn't bring myself to buy a vehicle sold by a foreign-owned company if there is a viable alternative available from an American-based company. From that list I'd go for the Colorado, simply because I think I'll be having a need for a pickup in the future and I've always been a fan of small/mid-size pickups.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Wait for the 2016 Camaro. It's supposed to have the magnetic ride control. Smooth as a Caddy when you need it, stiff like a sports car when you want it.


----------



## knight1fox3

mudpuppy said:


> except maybe a Wrangler since it has a non-Chrysler heritage.


+1.



mudpuppy said:


> Detroit area born and raised, I still couldn't bring myself to buy a vehicle sold by a foreign-owned company if there is a viable alternative available from an American-based company.


Even so, if it's getting horrible marks on Consumer Reports, I could care less where it's made it's not going in my garage.

And also, having worked quite a bit in the automotive industry prior to material handling and consulting, you know that even though the company may be American based, the vehicles themselves are no longer completely manufactured in America. So I don't quite see the merit in brand loyalty in this regard.


----------



## mudpuppy

^Agree on both points--for instance I probably won't be getting an American motorcycle any time soon because there isn't anything offered from an American brand that I want (and can afford).

Though, while I agree that pretty much any vehicle is manufactured across the globe I do put some emphasis on who they employ in the design process, as well as where the corporate profits go. For instance, my girlfriend's brother works for Kia and despite having a BSME cannot obtain a title of Engineer because he is not from Korea.


----------



## Master slacker

My brother likes his (midsize SUV) 2014 Hyundai Tucson... I puke when I look at the front of it, but it's nice otherwise. I'd take the Kia counterpart (Sorento) or, in the compact marketplace, the Sportage. Personally I'd avoid Chrysler / Dodge / Fiat / Cerberus / Jeep / whothef*ckeverownsittoday like the plague. My personal take on their "reliability" over the years. I'm not blown away by any of the Big 3 offerings in my price range anyway. All appear "meh" and underwhelming.


----------



## csb

It seems like everyone here who owns a Dodge truck is always fixing it, whether it's old or brand new.


----------



## Road Guy

I put over 200,000 miles on my Durango and really had no problems with it.... I never really "loved" the car it was just the size I needed for 5 people's


----------



## engineergurl

I always used to hear any of the "American Auto's" it just depended on the day of the week it came off the line...

We have had several jeep brand vehicles and never had issues with them, same with Ford and all had 100,000+ miles on them.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ maybe on some of the older models like 2000 and earlier. But seriously, take a look at some of the newer models today and the reviews that are documented.


----------



## Road Guy

what do you expect out of the union industry?

But cars are a little subjective, based on who drives them ,were all those vehicles maintained at the same rate, where were they driven? We have all been in the oil change place with "that person" who gets asked ' ughh you know you have been 13,000 miles since the last oil change?

I normally change my own oil but it is a PIA some days...and you have to be round them blondes...


----------



## engineergurl

Road Guy said:


> But cars are a little subjective, based on who drives them ,were all those vehicles maintained at the same rate, where were they driven?




I ensured maintenance on all the vehicles, depending on their age between 5,000 and 7,000 miles per oil change, synthetic for them all once we hit over 80,000 miles, Most of them bought used so I can only guess the history for the first bit... Most were either driven on highways or back country dirt roads... gently compared to what I imagine most are put through, also infrequently... (for gosh sake the 2002 doesn't even have 200,000 miles on it)


----------



## Supe

Back country dirt roads can be hell on a motor. You'd be amazed at what dirt does to the longevity of a motor, even with a good air filter.


----------



## Road Guy

Cars have air filters?


----------



## Supe

Well, unless they're a racecar. My wagon runs with no filter, my RX7 needed a custom fab'd cowl induction setup with a foam element just to keep rocks out of it...


----------



## jeb6294

engineergurl said:


> Hyundai SantaFe
> 
> Hyundai Genesis
> 
> Dodge Journey or Nitro
> 
> Dodge Avenger, Charger or Challenger
> 
> Mazda Cx9 (or 7)
> 
> Chevy Colorado
> 
> Dodge Ram 1500
> 
> Toyota FJ Cruiser
> 
> Jeep Wrangler




Since the FJ is on there, I'm assuming you're looking used? And BTW, the FJ is just an overweight, overpriced 4-Runner in retro clothing.

I'd always vote for a Wrangler. Mine was a tank and I never had any problems with it, but if I did, it was easy to work on. I can't say too much about the newer Jeeps with their V-6's, but the I-6's will go forever. So far my Dodge Ram hasn't been bad. No real problems...knock on wood...and the Hemi is just too much fun.


----------



## Road Guy

So here is my dilemma I have coming up next year, eldest RG jr will be 16 in August. He can’t get his license until around November due to not getting his learners until then last year..

I drive an 02 Tahoe (paid for) with 135K miles on it. We need a big 4WD car for family trips to the mtns and such. But I am sick of driving the large car, I have been driving a large SUV as my daily driver since 06. I am thinking of getting myself something used but newer in the fall and giving my 16 year old the tahoe to drive around town, will mainly be to school, band, etc.

My worries are:

With the tahoe, you really can’t trust (just using) your mirrors, it’s a big car and you have to check for blind spots when turning and merging and I worry that new drivers don’t always double check when turning.

Also I don’t really want him carrying 7 people around (I guess I can remove the 3rd row seats) &amp; I think there are limits on who can be in the car and such the 1st year driving.

It’s a big engine, but not a fast engine, so I am not too worried about him driving the 5.3 L V8

I will still need the car for family use and don’t want it trashed during the week – I can handle that with some discipline..

We had talked about giving him the wife’s Prius (paid for), but I kind of like him having a little more metal around him his first year of driving. Wife “loves” her car and doesn’t want to part with it, It only has 55K miles on it. Its also an 06. I have not had much luck getting her to sell it. Were so close to Boulder we could probably get some good $ for it. It had the hybrid battery replaced last year (still under warranty thank god).

Another option is If wife got a newer car she could drive the tahoe to work since she only has a 5 mile commute and I could take her car and get a clunker for my son (like an old Ford Ranger or something). I have tried driving the prius to work some but its pretty damn uncomfortable for a person that is 6’2” and again city traffic, big trucks, one wreck and I am either dead or in a wheel chair the rest of my life.. Wife wants a F’n Subaru, which I guess I could drive, I was thinking getting a gently used 4 runner or something similar so we could have a backup 4WD for when only 4 of us go skiing. Which I foresee in the future happening as my oldest gets sucked into the later teenage life, band, school, job, etc..

So to summarize my diatribe:

1) Give son my Tahoe- get me something new(ish)
2) Give son Prius – get wife her F’n Subaru, I keep driving the Tahoe (or trade vehicles out between wife and I)
3) Give son another clunker car, we keep driving our same cars

Fuck one day I just want to be able to make decisions that don’t involve 3 other people..


----------



## matt267 PE

buy him a bus pass.


----------



## Road Guy

he does have a bike


----------



## NJmike PE

I second Matt's call, but donating the tahoe to the NJ family


----------



## engineergurl

I vote no car for the first 6 months after passing the test... delay your decision?

(links removed)

The jeep is local so I could test drive it I guess? never dealt with a place like car max before.

(and yes, I'm shopping around right now)


----------



## Master slacker

Option 3 - Let him get his hands dirty.


----------



## Master slacker

$31 large for a used FJ? Damn.


----------



## Road Guy

weve bought cars from CarMax before and been happy

but no jeep for him- 16 years olds insurance on a jeep or any other perceived fun car is outrageous..

He will be 16 in August, wont be able to get his license until Nov or December. We need him to drive some to be honest. After 16 years of lugging kids around you need a F'n break

He is aware he has to come up with half of his insurance, which will be around $600 for him, So he has to meet this end of the bargain...

But if we get him a clunker type were thinking &lt;$5K


----------



## engineergurl

Master slacker said:


> $31 large for a used FJ? Damn.




yup... sort of makes me flinch a little bit considering the town house we bought when we got married was $36,000


----------



## engineergurl

Road Guy said:


> weve bought cars from CarMax before and been happy
> 
> but no jeep for him- 16 years olds insurance on a jeep or any other perceived fun car is outrageous..
> 
> He will be 16 in August, wont be able to get his license until Nov or December. We need him to drive some to be honest. After 16 years of lugging kids around you need a F'n break
> 
> He is aware he has to come up with half of his insurance, which will be around $600 for him, So he has to meet this end of the bargain...
> 
> But if we get him a clunker type were thinking &lt;$5K






lol, the jeep was for me! my Dad taught me how to drive on a Dodge Diplomat... "lots of metal to protect you" was a phrase I heard often. Good gosh that thing was a boat.


----------



## mudpuppy

I tend to think about money in units of vacations, cars, houses, and "fatty." When car approaches the value of house, though, it completely throws off my system. Like when you see people living in a trailer driving a Mercedes.


----------



## Road Guy

We share the same logic, I have a little different responsibility and terms of reliable transportation for the family and all though

We have bought new cars before however we've usually kept them close to 10 years, I have found your going to pay about the same yearly driving cost if you buy a new car and keep it a decade that you will if you buy a used car and are constantly working on it


----------



## engineergurl

mudpuppy said:


> I tend to think about money in units of vacations, cars, houses, and "fatty." When car approaches the value of house, though, it completely throws off my system. Like when you see people living in a trailer driving a Mercedes.




If we purchase either one, I consider it a long term investment. 2014 is new enough that I don't feel like it looses half it's value when I drive it off the lot maybe? We bought the Mazda new and someone rear-ended my husband before we even made the first payment, so I tend to shy away from brand spanking new- 2 years old I figure maybe it is more likely that it was a lease that got traded in for an upgrade rather than a car with issues that someone didn't want anymore.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Depending on the mileage, 2-yrs old can also mean retired rental car...


----------



## engineergurl

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Depending on the mileage, 2-yrs old can also mean retired rental car...




true, but I would think you can usually tell... most leased cars have mileage limits


----------



## Road Guy

Carmax will show you the Carfax, and you can tell if it was a rental

You can also Google the Vin number and that will provide a ton of info also


----------



## csb

If you remove the third seat, it makes more room for having sex in back.


----------



## Road Guy

I know, I just wish that the new drive-in theater was going to be open in time for 50 shades of gray


----------



## Supe

Better bring out the hand warmers and tinted windows for that one.


----------



## envirotex

No on the Prius. Maybe on the Tahoe. The more metal the better, but I would shop for another used option. You might find something newer that meets the "whole family" need.

Also, definitely remove the third row, unless RG Jr. has a girlfriend. In which, case removing the the third row conveniently makes enough room for a full-sized blanket and some pillows...for, you know, picnicking.


----------



## blybrook PE

RG, just get a older truck for the kid. Say mid to late 70's IH Scout. Plenty of steel to protect him, cheap insurance and easy to work on.

Could be a decent father / son rebuild project too.


----------



## csb

While you're handing out vehicles, you got anything extra? I promise I won't have sex in any of them; I'm married.


----------



## Supe

Best first car for a son? S10 pickup truck. Dead reliable, cheap insurance, cheap to buy, room to haul crap (like lawnmowers for his summer job), and most importantly, no seats to haul around more than 1 friend.


----------



## Road Guy

sadly there really isn't such a thing as cheap insurance for a 16 year old... even a 84 ford ranger is going to be a minimum $1200-$1400 / year 

but that's our line of thinking is either a small pick up, Id love to find a 78 Bronco that he could get working again and I could take over down the line, but those things are either already tricked out and pricey or rust buckets by now..


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> sadly there really isn't such a thing as cheap insurance for a 16 year old... even a 84 ford ranger is going to be a minimum $1200-$1400 / year
> 
> but that's our line of thinking is either a small pick up, Id love to find a 78 Bronco that he could get working again and I could take over down the line, but those things are either already tricked out and pricey or rust buckets by now..


I think you need to re-look at your provider then. It's no where near that for say something like a basic plan through Progressive. Might be worth checking on getting him his own plan through a separate provider and then later on teaching him what insurance payments will actually look like. The joys of car-ownership.


----------



## Road Guy

Have you ever personally called and checked on insurance for a 16 year old?


----------



## envirotex

Like this?


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> Have you ever personally called and checked on insurance for a 16 year old?


My neighbor and I were just looking at some options for this (his kid). Almost seems cheaper to go with a separate entity for certain situations. Similar to how I have my motorcycle insurance completely separate from our AMFAM umbrella coverage.

Not saying it is the best option for you, but something to possibly explore.


----------



## Road Guy

we made the calls and total package it always comes out that state farm is the cheapest for us (even cheaper than USAA) I have been with them since 1989 though...

and regarding the bronco I was thinking something like: (meant to say 68)


----------



## envirotex

Those are pricey...too much for a teenager. That's why we got the '79 this time.

We had a '75.


----------



## Road Guy

I could not find a picture of a rusted out one for cheap....  I wouldn't let him drive anything that nice!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

We bought a Chevy Cruize for Mrs Dex's parents for relatively cheap. Only a year old for $12k.


----------



## Supe

I cannot reiterate enough how it should be a two seater if at all possible. Having friends in the car has to be the most distracting thing ever for a young driver. In CT, they even enacted a law some years back that you have to be X years old and have X years of driving experience to have any minors in the car other than siblings.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> I cannot reiterate enough how it should be a two seater if at all possible. Having friends in the car has to be the most distracting thing ever for a young driver. In CT, they even enacted a law some years back that you have to be X years old and have X years of driving experience to have any minors in the car other than siblings.


Colorado has similar laws.


----------



## csb

A cargo van is a two seater. Then he'd be that kid with the creeper van.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> A cargo van is a two seater. Then he'd be that kid with the creeper van.




But then he'll get all the bodies ladies.


----------



## csb

I'm a big Sprinter van fan and I always point them out when I see them. I pointed one out in town recently and then read the side, which said, "Suzy's Sausage." I'm guessing no amount of Febreeze would ever make that van right.


----------



## Master slacker

One time we fit 9 people in my brother's 2-door Cutlass Calais. NINE! Never underestimate the willpower of teenagers.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I was a pimp in highschool.


----------



## jeb6294

The first time I was overseas I stopped to give some military guys a ride. We got 13 people in/on my little 4-door Hilux pickup truck.


----------



## knight1fox3

The stereo system I installed in my first car was actually worth more than the car itself. But it got me where I needed to go.


----------



## Supe

I have a scar on the back of my hand, courtesy of a much rougher looking version of this honeywagon:


----------



## FLBuff PE

This one is currently for sale in Glenwood Springs...

http://www.glenwoodspringsford.com/Glenwood-Springs/For-Sale/Used/Ford/Bronco/1969-Truck/36026589/


----------



## FLBuff PE

I drove something similar to this in hs...


----------



## Master slacker

Y'all are lucky. My first "car" was not much unlike this fine example, except it was a two-tone blue and silver jobber without running boards. Ladies and gents, may I present to you... a 1984 Chevrolet Astro!







Yes, I know this is a 1985, but they look identical.


----------



## csb

I'm currently looking for an Astro van. They are making a comeback, plus I could get some bikes in it.


----------



## csb

First car. It had a topper and was owned by a priest. It was 2WD and had a 4-cylinder. It was just a step up from my bike. My mom made sandbags for it out of my dad's old workpants. She filled garbage bags with sand, slid them in the cutoff legs and sewed them shut. It was like I had raised hell at an Office Max.


----------



## matt267 PE

^ this was the first car that was "mine." It included a leaking head casket gasket and peeling roof paint.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

matt267 said:


> ^ this was the first car that was "mine." It included a leaking head casket and peeling roof paint.


Did you work for a funeral home?


----------



## matt267 PE

ha

A leaking casket would be much worse than a leaking gasket. But you know what I mean.

(damn smart ass)


----------



## envirotex

My first car...


----------



## knight1fox3

^^^


----------



## NJmike PE

envirotex said:


> My first car...


Daaaaamn. I would have parked with you in that ride.


----------



## Ble_PE

My first car was this:






It was a 4 speed manual with a speedometer that might start working once you got to 35 mph. Not that you would get over 60 in it anyway. A couple of years later I inherited my brother's Bronco II with a 5 speed and 4wd. I loved that car!


----------



## Flyer_PE

First car was a hand-me-down from my dad. Mine was a darker blue but otherwise nearly identical to this:






I was lobbying for a 1969 Chevelle but that got vetoed. To quote my father when he gave me the keys: "It's reliable as hell and doesn't have enough power to get you killed." He was almost wrong about the power.

Second car was this:






I still miss that car.


----------



## envirotex

^^^Split bumper. Nice.


----------



## jeb6294

My first:






I am the first to admit that I am an idiot. We had a family friend who liked to build old Fords. When dad and I were looking for my first car, he had a '48 Ford he was selling. Was in grey primer but everything else was about done. Being a stupid kid, I didn't understand what a '48 Ford with a built 302 meant so I decided I wanted the pretty red "sports car". Probably for the better anyway...I would have killed myself in that old hot rod.


----------



## MetsFan

My first mode of transporation:






I didn't have my own car until I was 27 and then I got this '97 Civic HX


----------



## engineergurl

My first car (owned by my parents)






My first car (owned by me)






I had that three months, it caught fire and was totaled so I went back to driving my parents car and kept the insurance money and used it as a down payment on a used Mountaineer when I graduated college.


----------



## blybrook PE

First truck was an '84 S10 with an ironduke engine and a four speed. Sold it and switched to a '89 Ranger with a 5 speed. Never owned a car, always a truck of some sort.


----------



## NJmike PE

since we are talking about our firsts,






What a POS it was too. blew the engine, 2x, trans, floor was rotted out


----------



## matt267 PE

I bet the back seat was perfect for sleeping.


----------



## DVINNY

My first car

the highly sought after 1986 Chevette Coupe (gold)


----------



## knight1fox3

engineergurl said:


> My first car (owned by my parents)
> 
> My first car (owned by me)
> 
> I had that three months, it caught fire and was totaled so I went back to driving my parents car and kept the insurance money and used it as a down payment on a used Mountaineer when I graduated college.


Is that a Saturn wagon? LOL

And how exactly does someone's car "catch fire"? [email protected] diplomat.....CHRYSLER FTW!!!


----------



## engineergurl

knight1fox3 said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> My first car (owned by my parents)
> 
> My first car (owned by me)
> 
> I had that three months, it caught fire and was totaled so I went back to driving my parents car and kept the insurance money and used it as a down payment on a used Mountaineer when I graduated college.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Saturn wagon? LOL
> 
> And how exactly does someone's car "catch fire"? [email protected] diplomat.....CHRYSLER Sucks!!!!
Click to expand...



it's a Geo Storm and a Reliant K, and if I had a clue how it caught fire I would tell you. I drove it down to a coffee house, parked it and then a friend came in 10 min later and said, gee your car had an awful lot of smoke coming from it, when I went out there were like 5 foot flames from the hood.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ wow! Talk about a bad day!

Ah good old Geo. I also had a Geo Tracker after the Toyota. Rag top, 4 cyl, with front locking hubs for 4WD....LOL. It wouldn't go if we had more than 4 people in it. LOL x 2


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> My first car (owned by my parents)
> 
> My first car (owned by me)
> 
> I had that three months, it caught fire and was totaled so I went back to driving my parents car and kept the insurance money and used it as a down payment on a used Mountaineer when I graduated college.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Saturn wagon? LOL
> And how exactly does someone's car "catch fire"? [email protected] diplomat.....CHRYSLER FTW!!!
Click to expand...

It happens more often than you think...the Mustang caught on fire once, too.

For a while, the ignition was out on it and I had to start it by by-passing it...sometimes that's a little difficult to explain to University police.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Had a friend in HS with a Fiero that caught fire at his girlfriends house. He had snuck in that night for some :eyebrows: and had to fess up when the parents saw the fireball parked just down the street.


----------



## snickerd3

go i get snickette all bundled in her carseat and out to the car to run errands this morning and the dam car wouldn't start...dead battery.


----------



## NJmike PE

snickerd3 said:


> go i get snickette all bundled in her carseat and out to the car to run errands this morning and the dam car wouldn't start...dead battery.


I've been getting up in the middle of the night to run mine during these really cold nights to avoid this. Damn I'm cheap.


----------



## MA_PE

NJmike PE said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> go i get snickette all bundled in her carseat and out to the car to run errands this morning and the dam car wouldn't start...dead battery.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been getting up in the middle of the night to run mine during these really cold nights to avoid this. Damn I'm cheap.
Click to expand...

Yes you are. I'd use a credit card for the $100 for a new battery rather than go out in the middle of each night to "charge" it.


----------



## kevo_55

Or you can spend $30 to buy a battery tender.

Sine my commute has dropped to maybe 4 miles total one way including drop off for daycare, I fought the dead battery issue during winter as well.

The charger helps.


----------



## Road Guy

Moving to a semi cold environment I am just assuming a new battery every 2 years is part of the experience...


----------



## MA_PE

charger would preclude nightly manual attention but it's a patch. Pull the battery and have it tested. If it's bad replace it. If it's ok then there's a drain somewhere that needs to be addressed. My old 16 yo Buick is outside here in Boston and we've been just as cold (if not colder than) as NJ. It starts every morning no problem.

Mike you have enough crap on your plate. You don't need this nuisance adding to the pile. Hope you get it resolved and get some sleep.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> Moving to a semi cold environment I am just assuming a new battery every 2 years is part of the experience...


The colder temperatures actually tend to extend the life of a lead-acid battery. Buy a decent one and you should still get 4 or 5 years out of it. Also, regardless of what the parts book claims, buy the battery with the largest CCA rating that will physically fit in the car. They all float at the same voltage so it won't make any difference to the charging system.


----------



## Flyer_PE

One other thing to check if you have a multimeter and a few minutes is the parasitic draw on the battery with the car shut off. The car should be drawing somewhere in the 5-15 mA range. Anything over 30 mA and your battery will be dead any time the car sits for more than a couple of days.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

You could always put a few solar panels on your car to charge battery's


----------



## Supe

And Duralast Gold batteries from Autozone rule the roost when it comes to affordable batteries. You can't kill those things it seems.


----------



## NJmike PE

MA_PE said:


> charger would preclude nightly manual attention but it's a patch. Pull the battery and have it tested. If it's bad replace it. If it's ok then there's a drain somewhere that needs to be addressed. My old 16 yo Buick is outside here in Boston and we've been just as cold (if not colder than) as NJ. It starts every morning no problem.
> 
> Mike you have enough crap on your plate. You don't need this nuisance adding to the pile. Hope you get it resolved and get some sleep.


The temperatures are trending upward, so this will probably keep me from buying a new one until it either completely dies, or next winter. As a result I haven't been getting up much in the middle of the night except for fire dept calls.


----------



## Road Guy

We usually get that 4 year battery from auto zone I think? However we have been the last people to leave the parking lot at the ski resorts a few times, and when it's 5° and dark I don't mind paying a few extra bucks when your a very long way from home..


----------



## Krakosky

So I'm debating if I should get rid of the pathfinder and look for something else. Here are my issues with pathfinder:

- gets like 14 mpg which means I'm literally filling up the tank every 2 days. I didn't do enough research but thought it got closer to 20 mpg like my escape.

- radio cuts in and out which best buy diagnosed as either the front speaker or amp needs to be replaced. Not a big deal but kind of when you're driving 110 miles per day.

- AC on at full blast and it feels cooler outside than in the car.

I'm torn bc I don't know what to get that will get better gas mileage, still be fun to drive and not cost over $10k. Only paid $5k for the pathfinder.


----------



## Road Guy

Is that a V6? I think I get better mileage than that on the Tahoe and its a V8

you could try new spark plugs, air filter, worn tires are usually the biggest gas mileage "thief's"

as much as I cant stand them the Subaru's seem to run forever and they should get lower 20's in terms of MPG's? There are usually a decent # of them available. but anything at $10K or less is probably going to have some maintenance needs..


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Not much you can do for gas mileage.

Radio fix is only a couple hundred bucks

AC just needs to be recharged.

Overall it is relatively inexpensive to address the issues, but the gas mileage can be a bear.


----------



## csb

Krakosky said:


> So I'm debating if I should get rid of the pathfinder and look for something else. Here are my issues with pathfinder:
> 
> - gets like 14 mpg which means I'm literally filling up the tank every 2 days. I didn't do enough research but thought it got closer to 20 mpg like my escape.
> 
> - radio cuts in and out which best buy diagnosed as either the front speaker or amp needs to be replaced. Not a big deal but kind of when you're driving 110 miles per day.
> 
> - AC on at full blast and it feels cooler outside than in the car.
> 
> I'm torn bc I don't know what to get that will get better gas mileage, still be fun to drive and not cost over $10k. Only paid $5k for the pathfinder.


You guys also have the CX5, right? Is there a reason for a SUV/Crossover?


----------



## MA_PE

csb said:


> Krakosky said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I'm debating if I should get rid of the pathfinder and look for something else. Here are my issues with pathfinder:
> 
> - gets like 14 mpg which means I'm literally filling up the tank every 2 days. I didn't do enough research but thought it got closer to 20 mpg like my escape.
> 
> - radio cuts in and out which best buy diagnosed as either the front speaker or amp needs to be replaced. Not a big deal but kind of when you're driving 110 miles per day.
> 
> - AC on at full blast and it feels cooler outside than in the car.
> 
> I'm torn bc I don't know what to get that will get better gas mileage, still be fun to drive and not cost over $10k. Only paid $5k for the pathfinder.
> 
> 
> 
> You guys also have the CX5, right? Is there a reason for a SUV/Crossover?
Click to expand...

agreed. you might opt for a smaller "commuter car" with a much improved mpg. I understand chevy cobalts are inexpensive on the used car markets. We've got a 2009 that's been pretty good as far as not needing mechanical repairs.


----------



## mudpuppy

Are you wishing you still had the Escape? It had brand new AC right?


----------



## Krakosky

Yeah I wish I could've kept my escape.

We had a Mazda 3 but got rid of it bc it was really uncomfortable to drive long distances. The pathfinder is a nice ride with cushy leather seats. I prefer SUVs over cars.


----------



## jeb6294

Generally, SUV and mpg are not going to go together very well so there's a pretty good chance you're going to have to choose one. About the only way around it is to see if you could find something like the Jeep Liberty with the diesel in it. An SUV that's supposed to get around ~25mpg on the highway. The only problem with that is that now you'd have to start doing the math. I don't know what it's like where you are, but around here diesel can be anywhere from $0.50 to 1.00 higher per gallon than regular unleaded.


----------



## Krakosky

I was thinking of maybe a forester. Although even used they tend to be expensive.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

No Subaru. You're an engineer. Not a f-hippy.


----------



## Supe

As much as I hate to say it, if you want a comfy ride and loads of room with decent MPG, you can probably find a Honda Odyssey minivan for under $10k. Even the higher mileage stuff lasts forever.

And as much as I hate them aesthetically, the Scion XB is kind of a baby suv/hatch/car mish-mash that are also decently dependable and can be found at that price point.

Both are also loaded with gadgets galore.


----------



## Krakosky

Dexman PE PMP said:


> No Subaru. You're an engineer. Not a f-hippy.


Well what I really want is a Porsche Macan but I'm a ways off from that.


----------



## engineergurl

Krakosky said:


> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> No Subaru. You're an engineer. Not a f-hippy.
> 
> 
> 
> Well what I really want is a Porsche Macan but I'm a ways off from that.
Click to expand...

I actually got decent mileage with my sport track considering it's size, highway is about what you are looking for (20mpg or so)


----------



## jeb6294

Dexman PE PMP said:


> No Subaru. You're an engineer. Not a f-hippy lesbian.


Fixed it for you.


----------



## Road Guy

Thinking our plan next year is to let the kid drive the Tahoe and the wife's Prius some and I'm going to get a Tacoma truck with the 4 door version (whatever you call it) so we could still put five people in it if we had too. Lots of options for ski racks and other accessories and it would be nice to have a truck again.

And as a side note I have really enjoyed the CB radio. Lots of entertainment when I am on the road (a lot lately)and the last few trips up the mountains we had had some fun conversations with other people we would meet along the road with CB radios.


----------



## MA_PE

so people still use the CBs? I thought they were extinct and people switched to the family radio bands.


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> No Subaru. You're an engineer. Not a f-hippy lesbian.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed it for you.
Click to expand...

I dunno.... she does have short hair. Maybe the husband is just a ruse.... hmmmm.


----------



## Road Guy

I think a lot of people have switched over to VHF radio's but there still a decent amount of traffic on the CB radio, enough to keep you entertained at least


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

mudpuppy said:


> jeb6294 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> No Subaru. You're an engineer. Not a f-hippy lesbian.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed it for you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I dunno.... she does have short hair. Maybe the husband is just a ruse.... hmmmm.
Click to expand...

Not that there's anything wrong with that.


----------



## Krakosky

Mr.Krak wants to get rid of pathfinder and buy a newer/better used car that's $10-12k. I'm still torn but when I'm driving home tonight when it's 80 and my AC isn't working.


----------



## engineergurl

Krakosky said:


> Mr.Krak wants to get rid of pathfinder and buy a newer/better used car that's $10-12k. I'm still torn but when I'm driving home tonight when it's 80 and my AC isn't working.




maybe you should do a little research on what you can get for the pathfinder? Chances are they are only going to give you about half of what you paid for it even though it's only been like a month or three... personally, that would be my biggest factor, how long had I had the car versus how much did I pay to use it for the time I had. Also, I would go back to where you bought it and make them fix the air conditioner, it's a reasonable request at least


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> Thinking our plan next year is to let the kid drive the Tahoe and the wife's Prius some and I'm going to get a Tacoma truck with the 4 door version (whatever you call it) so we could still put five people in it if we had too. Lots of options for ski racks and other accessories and it would be nice to have a truck again.
> 
> And as a side note I have really enjoyed the CB radio. Lots of entertainment when I am on the road (a lot lately)and the last few trips up the mountains we had had some fun conversations with other people we would meet along the road with CB radios.


My husband drives a crew cab Tacoma and loves it. Definitely room for five people and then stuff. He loads it up and pulls the fishing boat with it. It had okay gas mileage until he lifted it to put the winch on.


----------



## Road Guy

we parked next to one at Copper Saturday, the guy let us put our kids in the back to see if they fit  He had an insulted cab/cover thing which I thought was pretty cool

You can do some short distance rides with 3 teenagers on a single row bench seat but you don't want to go very far or else it becomes just fucking miserable!

I figure if next summer we do another road trip we can just rent another mini van, which worked well when we did last summers road trip (so long as I don't see anyone I know while I am driving it)

Krak- you can get an AC charging canister at Autozone / advance auto parts and if your only low on (the Freon replacement stuff) that may do the trick- the newer environmental friendly crap you don't have to have a mech license to purchase- I topped off the Durango with mine 2 summers ago and it worked nicely. just follow the instructions-- but if the pathfinder has the good stuff (actual Freon) then you may have to go to a AC place


----------



## MA_PE

csb said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking our plan next year is to let the kid drive the Tahoe and the wife's Prius some and I'm going to get a Tacoma truck with the 4 door version (whatever you call it) so we could still put five people in it if we had too. Lots of options for ski racks and other accessories and it would be nice to have a truck again.
> 
> And as a side note I have really enjoyed the CB radio. Lots of entertainment when I am on the road (a lot lately)and the last few trips up the mountains we had had some fun conversations with other people we would meet along the road with CB radios.
> 
> 
> 
> My husband drives a crew cab Tacoma and loves it. Definitely room for five people and then stuff. He loads it up and pulls the fishing boat with it. It had okay gas mileage until he lifted it to put the winch on.
Click to expand...

hmph. I wouldn't expect a lift to affect the MPG that much.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> we parked next to one at Copper Saturday, the guy let us put our kids in the back to see if they fit  He had an insulted cab/cover thing which I thought was pretty cool
> 
> You can do some short distance rides with 3 teenagers on a single row bench seat but you don't want to go very far or else it becomes just fucking miserable!
> 
> I figure if next summer we do another road trip we can just rent another mini van, which worked well when we did last summers road trip (so long as I don't see anyone I know while I am driving it)
> 
> Krak- you can get an AC charging canister at Autozone / advance auto parts and if your only low on (the Freon replacement stuff) that may do the trick- the newer environmental friendly crap you don't have to have a mech license to purchase- I topped off the Durango with mine 2 summers ago and it worked nicely. just follow the instructions-- but if the pathfinder has the good stuff (actual Freon) then you may have to go to a AC place


If the Freon is low, chances are it went somewhere. Depending on how fast it leaks out, the charge may only be good for a short period of time.


----------



## FLBuff PE

Like until she sells it?


----------



## Road Guy

I think its an older car so its not going to last 4 ever? but its worth a $20 attempt..


----------



## Krakosky

engineergurl said:


> Krakosky said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mr.Krak wants to get rid of pathfinder and buy a newer/better used car that's $10-12k. I'm still torn but when I'm driving home tonight when it's 80 and my AC isn't working.
> 
> 
> 
> maybe you should do a little research on what you can get for the pathfinder? Chances are they are only going to give you about half of what you paid for it even though it's only been like a month or three... personally, that would be my biggest factor, how long had I had the car versus how much did I pay to use it for the time I had. Also, I would go back to where you bought it and make them fix the air conditioner, it's a reasonable request at least
Click to expand...

Paid almost 5k for it and have spent $399.36 on gas from 1/30-3/3. The guy we bought the car from will not fix the AC for free. Or the sunroof. Or the radio/speaker issue.


----------



## MA_PE

If you bought it off of a private seller, then I think you're stuck. If it was a dealer and all these items were working when you first got it, then I would look into any "lemon laws" in FL. I don't think a 90 day "warranty" is out of line.


----------



## Supe

May want to throw a lemon law threat at the guy in writing and see if he does an about face...


----------



## Supe

Note that you're not covered by actual lemon laws from used/private sales, but, if he knew there were problems that were undisclosed, you can threaten him with a fraud suit. Sometimes, having it come from an attorney on paper is enough to scare them into it.


----------



## Road Guy

I would just put the thing on craigslist for a 5000 and wait till the right person comes along..

That last jeep I had a shit load of rust on it that I didn't see on first inspection, and I was just patient and put it on craigslist for what I paid for it and after a few weeks it was someone else's problem


----------



## Krakosky

He offered us a 6 month warranty where repairs would be free if he did the work himself or he would split the cost 50/50 if his mechanics did it. We're leaving for 10 days but he claims he doesn't want to do the work/doesn't have the time. And I don't feel like paying him any more money.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Just about any running 4x4 will get you at least $3k in Colorado.


----------



## engineergurl

Krakosky said:


> He offered us a 6 month warranty where repairs would be free if he did the work himself or he would split the cost 50/50 if his mechanics did it. We're leaving for 10 days but he claims he doesn't want to do the work/doesn't have the time. And I don't feel like paying him any more money.




ummm, warranty is supposed to mean he'll fix it weather he wants to or has the time to or not...


----------



## Road Guy

It's probably different at Joes used car lot compared to a regular mainline dealer.

Sucks but sometime you just have to cut your losses and move on.....

What's the name of the place and well negative yelp the shit out of him...?


----------



## Krakosky

Craigslist is a good idea. We had good luck selling a bunch of stuff we didn't want to move last summer.


----------



## csb

MA_PE said:


> csb said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking our plan next year is to let the kid drive the Tahoe and the wife's Prius some and I'm going to get a Tacoma truck with the 4 door version (whatever you call it) so we could still put five people in it if we had too. Lots of options for ski racks and other accessories and it would be nice to have a truck again.
> 
> And as a side note I have really enjoyed the CB radio. Lots of entertainment when I am on the road (a lot lately)and the last few trips up the mountains we had had some fun conversations with other people we would meet along the road with CB radios.
> 
> 
> 
> My husband drives a crew cab Tacoma and loves it. Definitely room for five people and then stuff. He loads it up and pulls the fishing boat with it. It had okay gas mileage until he lifted it to put the winch on.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> hmph. I wouldn't expect a lift to affect the MPG that much.
Click to expand...

I think it's the big ass winch and bumper actually causing the decrease in gas mileage:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Oh, for a second there I thought you said big-assed wench...


----------



## Supe

And with a few simple keystrokes, Dexman ensured that there would never be another day in which he encountered CSB, and lived to tell about it.


----------



## MA_PE

Krak: was this stuff working when you first got it? If so, I put the press on him to fix it for free. Is your warranty is writing at all?

Nothing wrong with a big-assed wench.......I cannot lie


----------



## knight1fox3

Taken with my vehicle's GoPro cam this morning, NOT my cell phone.


----------



## MA_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Taken with my vehicle's GoPro cam this morning, NOT my cell phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20150313_084347.jpg


that's a wide ass.


----------



## engineergurl

you go-pro your commute into work?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

He thinks he is driving to work in Russia


----------



## FLBuff PE

It's Wisconsin. They drink like Russians up there, so I don't blame him.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ LOL


----------



## Supe

Got MOST of the racecar in primer yesterday, since we had one day of weekend weather finally. Body is primed, as is the hood , rear bumper, both doors. Still need to prime the fiberglass nose/front fenders, and the rear decklid, but both of those need additional sanding/prep first. A little bit of orange peel texture to the primer/sealer, but all in all, not bad for a Summit Racing brand primer that cost $55/gallon and a $10 Harbor Freight HVLP gun. This thing is going to get destroyed, so I'm not exactly going for show quality.

That said, the primer showed a bunch of pinholes that I hadn't previously seen in the hood, but I hit those with thinned spot putty last night and will see how it sands out before giving another coat of primer/sealer prior to paint.

Oh, and I went super high-tech professional on this one - sprayed it in my driveway.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The 6th Generation Camaro will be revealed on May 16th!!

http://www.chevrolet.com/2016-camaro/


----------



## Supe

My guess is identical to the 5th gen with a slightly different roof and pointier nose as far as styling is concerned.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The spy shots I've seen so far show that the car is basically a refresh of the 5th Gen, but is built on the smaller alpha platform (Caddy ATS vs the current Caddy CTS).


----------



## DVINNY

^ exactly.

I was going to add that for it to be considered the next generation, it would need a platform change. That is what defined the difference of the 1st five generations.


----------



## DVINNY

I'm trying to calm my wife down, as I'm currently talking with my uncle about buying his '55 chevy off of him. It would be in addition to my '68. She's not taking the idea too well right now.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

DVINNY said:


> ^ exactly.
> 
> I was going to add that for it to be considered the next generation, it would need a platform change. That is what defined the difference of the 1st five generations.




I'm pretty sure Gen4 shared more chassis parts with the Gen3 than the SN95 Mustang shared with the Fox. Or if not more, about the same.


----------



## Capt Worley PE

BTW, as for recommendations for a vehicle for RG's kid, either a 98-00 Ford Ranger or a 95-02 Cavalier with the 2.2. Both dead reliable, if unexciting and both are quite safe.

I'd recommend stick for both.


----------



## Supe

Well, the vinyl I put on my rear fender flares starting lifting. Shitty vinyl? No. Started lifting the gelcoat. Peeled it off, guess I have to add those into the "prime and spray" pile for the time being.

As for the rest of the vinyl, a good friend of mine who does vinyl has offered to take the car for 4 days when finished, design up a racing scheme for it, and go to town on it. He's a really creative guy, and asked if he could do something wild, so I'm really looking forward to dumping it on him at some point.


----------



## engineergurl

Can a bad wheel bearing really make your tire fall off?


----------



## MA_PE

I believe it'll wobble a LOT and make a LOT of noise before it falls off


----------



## engineergurl

MA_PE said:


> I believe it'll wobble a LOT and make a LOT of noise before it falls off




good to know... THANK YOU


----------



## Supe

In all likelihood, there is still a castle nut that will hold your brake/hub assembly to a spindle. In other words, your wheel could damn near be flapping around and still not come flying off unexpectedly until that spindle/hub assembly itself fails.

On the racecar front, the ENTIRE car is now in primer. I had to remove the vinyl from one of my rear fender flares after it made it abundantly clear that it was not in it for the long haul, and was starting to peel on the edges. Thankfully, some really thinned out spot putty and two coats of primer hid some bad manufacturing defects and some 36 grit sanding scratches without a trace. If next weekend is nice, the RX7 will be satin black and ready for the next phase!


----------



## NJmike PE

So I just bought a bluetooth diagnostic scanner that will work with my phone, so I can clear the check engine codes. I need to run my through inspection, theoretically before the end of the month and here in NJ they only check emissions. Currently, check engine light is on due to a leaky gas cap or some other vapor pressure issue. If I clear the code before running it through state inspection, will it pass or will there be some kind of residual message on the computer that they could see?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

In CO they used to do a gas cap pressure check with the emissions test, so even if you clear the code the car still has to pass their test. Not sure if they still do.


----------



## Lumber Jim

engineergurl said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it'll wobble a LOT and make a LOT of noise before it falls off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good to know... THANK YOU
Click to expand...

broken lug nut studs can make the wheel fall off and only makes a bad noise for a short time before it happens... (or so I'm told by the family member that had this happen)


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> In CO they used to do a gas cap pressure check with the emissions test, so even if you clear the code the car still has to pass their test. Not sure if they still do.




In NC, you have to have 300 miles recorded by the ECU after a service light for them to retest. Keeps people from rolling it in and clearing the codes.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> In CO they used to do a gas cap pressure check with the emissions test, so even if you clear the code the car still has to pass their test. Not sure if they still do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In NC, you have to have 300 miles recorded by the ECU after a service light for them to retest. Keeps people from rolling it in and clearing the codes.
Click to expand...

The trick around that is that codes are generated with 3 consecutive faults at start. You can clear the codes and drive 300 miles without stopping and the codes wouldn't regenerate.


----------



## Supe

Assuming it's a fault that shows up at start. I had one tied to a bad DBW pedal assembly and it would turn back on during driving. Around here, they also seem to start/shut off/restart the car at least once.


----------



## Lumber Jim

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> In CO they used to do a gas cap pressure check with the emissions test, so even if you clear the code the car still has to pass their test. Not sure if they still do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In NC, you have to have 300 miles recorded by the ECU after a service light for them to retest. Keeps people from rolling it in and clearing the codes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The trick around that is that codes are generated with 3 consecutive faults at start. You can clear the codes and drive 300 miles without stopping and the codes wouldn't regenerate.
Click to expand...

instead of driving for 5 hours and spend $50 on gas, buy a new gas cap?


----------



## NJmike PE

One might say that your valve cover should be tighter that just hand tight, if you want to avoid a leaky valve cover


----------



## Supe

NJmike PE said:


> One might say that your valve cover should be tighter that just hand tight, if you want to avoid a leaky valve cover




Allegedly.

I usually see the opposite. Valve cover bolts cranked down to high hell, warping the stamped steel or aluminum flanges so that they will never seal again.


----------



## NJmike PE

well, mine is leaking pretty good. So upon inspecting it I saw that I could get at least 3/4 turn to make it nicely hand tight. So we'll see if that slows it up. Damn thing looks like it's overheating every time I shut it off from the amount of oil getting splattered on the block.


----------



## matt267 PE

NJmike PE said:


> One might say that your valve cover should be tighter that just hand tight, if you want to avoid a leaky valve cover


They should be tightened to a specific torque. Check the user manual for the car, it might list the torque.


----------



## NJmike PE

true, but Supe is correct. Over torquing them will result in an uneven seat with the head, or if they are plastic, they will crack.


----------



## matt267 PE

NJmike PE said:


> true, but Supe is correct. Over torquing them will result in an uneven seat with the head, or if they are plastic, they will crack.


agreed.


----------



## csb

Does buying a used Subaru make me a hippie?


----------



## Supe

STI - 20-something male

Legacy - Hipster

Outback - Lesbian

Nope, not a hippie.


----------



## engineergurl

Supe said:


> STI - 20-something male






Really? no, I actually look at these every time it's time to get a new car. I came close to getting one of the 3rd generation ones back in the late 90's but ugh those headlights were ugly. Considered it again when I got out of college in 2003ish (those ones were much nicer looking) but opted for the SUV... upstate ny isn't conducive to many sporty type cars so subarus don't act much as a status symbol around there (at least where I was living)


----------



## mudpuppy

I know two people who own STIs. The first is a 20-something male and the other is a late 30s female.


----------



## engineergurl

mudpuppy said:


> I know two people who own STIs. The first is a 20-something male and the other is a late 30s female.




HA HA- then I guess CSB is good and the fact that I like them isn't too far off?

Personally I like the Toyota Celica just as much... but good luck finding one of those


----------



## MA_PE

matt267 said:


> NJmike PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> true, but Supe is correct. Over torquing them will result in an uneven seat with the head, or if they are plastic, they will crack.
> 
> 
> 
> agreed.
Click to expand...

and theoretically the manufacturer's recommended torque will consider that effect.


----------



## csb

engineergurl said:


> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know two people who own STIs. The first is a 20-something male and the other is a late 30s female.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HA HA- then I guess CSB is good and the fact that I like them isn't too far off?
> 
> Personally I like the Toyota Celica just as much... but good luck finding one of those
Click to expand...



But I was looking at the Outback.

Which means you can hit on me!


----------



## Supe

Got pics?


----------



## Supe

And why has there not been a Subaru Outback - Doc Martin Edition yet?


----------



## engineergurl

csb said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mudpuppy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know two people who own STIs. The first is a 20-something male and the other is a late 30s female.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HA HA- then I guess CSB is good and the fact that I like them isn't too far off?
> 
> Personally I like the Toyota Celica just as much... but good luck finding one of those
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> But I was looking at the Outback.
> 
> Which means you can hit on me!
Click to expand...



FINALLY a sign!!!


----------



## DVINNY

^^LOL



Lumber Jim said:


> broken lug nut studs can make the wheel fall off and only makes a bad noise for a short time before it happens... (or so I'm told by the family member that had this happen)


I can vouch. Happened to me.

Twice.


----------



## engineergurl

DVINNY said:


> ^^LOL
> 
> 
> 
> Lumber Jim said:
> 
> 
> 
> broken lug nut studs can make the wheel fall off and only makes a bad noise for a short time before it happens... (or so I'm told by the family member that had this happen)
> 
> 
> 
> I can vouch. Happened to me.
> 
> Twice.
Click to expand...



the tire place told me it was the wheel bearing going bad and recommended a few places but there are some significant things going on right now where I can't give up the car for even a day so I was just wondering if I could make it through another two or three weeks (the way they talked was no)


----------



## Supe

LOL, my boss just ran two races on Nitto race tires with a bad rear wheel bearing, because he didn't have time to change it between races.

If I were a betting man, I'd say you can limp it along.


----------



## Lumber Jim

DVINNY said:


> ^^LOL
> 
> 
> 
> Lumber Jim said:
> 
> 
> 
> broken lug nut studs can make the wheel fall off and only makes a bad noise for a short time before it happens... (or so I'm told by the family member that had this happen)
> 
> 
> 
> I can vouch. Happened to me.
> 
> Twice.
Click to expand...



apparently your "tight" with the tee wrench is tighter than spec? (Mr. body builder  )

front wheels or rear wheels? "they" say that if you hit your brakes after you lose a front wheel, it's a good way to veer off the road and flip over multiple times... composure is required to turn on your hazards and slowly coast to a stop near the side of the road with sparks flying all around you... Said family member had composure. His passenger did not.


----------



## NJmike PE




----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Hands down my favorite car of all time.


----------



## csb

Any opinions on older cargo vans? I've decided I don't have $60K for a Sprinter van, so I should go the other route.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I'm assuming more than just the obvious?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've also seen some pretty kick-ass vans out there too. Saw one similar to this yesterday on my way home from work.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Perfect option:

http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/4955857323.html


----------



## csb

Holy crap! Can someone lend me $35K for that van?!


----------



## Lumber Jim

Dexman PE PMP said:


> I've also seen some pretty kick-ass vans out there too. Saw one similar to this yesterday on my way home from work.


This is what I'm pretending to drive when I'm behind the wheel of my minivan...


----------



## Supe

I like the GMC Savannah, but if you go with a GMC/Chevy, make sure it's a 1996 or later model. Those have the 4L80e transmissions.

Bear in mind, most cargo vans have been worked HARD. You may have better luck finding a passenger van and strip a few rows of seats out if need be. They all suck at mileage, too. Have you considered a mini-van?


----------



## csb

Can I paint "Free Candy" on the side of a minivan?

The passenger van appealed to me, because I could take out the back two rows of seats.

I've been flirting with the idea of this van.

http://www.greeleynissan.com/used/Chevrolet/1994-Chevrolet-Chevy+Van-17ce0f3e0a0a00642b2e9b2fb42c1694.htm?mycarsr=vdp-savedCars

But I would constantly sing that 1970s AM Gold classic "Chevy Van."


----------



## Supe

That van looks great. Will you be adding "Serial Rapist" to your linkedin qualifications?


----------



## csb

I would, but you bastards would make that my top qualification.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Well, you're just so damn good at it.


----------



## DVINNY

Lumber Jim said:


> DVINNY said:
> 
> 
> 
> ^^LOL
> 
> 
> 
> Lumber Jim said:
> 
> 
> 
> broken lug nut studs can make the wheel fall off and only makes a bad noise for a short time before it happens... (or so I'm told by the family member that had this happen)
> 
> 
> 
> I can vouch. Happened to me.
> 
> Twice.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> apparently your "tight" with the tee wrench is tighter than spec? (Mr. body builder  )
> 
> front wheels or rear wheels? "they" say that if you hit your brakes after you lose a front wheel, it's a good way to veer off the road and flip over multiple times... composure is required to turn on your hazards and slowly coast to a stop near the side of the road with sparks flying all around you... Said family member had composure. His passenger did not.
Click to expand...



Nah,

not a great story actually.

I used to work the door at a club when I was in college. I threw a guy out onto the sidewalk one night. I had on pretty good suspicion that he found out where I lived and loosened up some lug nuts.

My front left wheel came flying off my Bronco II going about 45 MPH and hit a Honda Accord coming at me at about the same speed. Totalled the Honda and made the lady driving it a basket case.

My insurance rates adjusted accordingly.


----------



## Lumber Jim

^^WOW that sucks!!


----------



## Supe

I am embarassed to ask this question:

Anyone here have experience with the Dodge Chargers or Chrysler 300's, particularly the SRT8 models? These are the only two cars that meet my performance/number of doors requirements that I can pick up used in the sub $30K mark with +- 50K miles. Beyond that, we're into CTS-V/AMG C63 territory around the $40K+ mark.


----------



## NJmike PE

So yesterday I had an issue occur. I was leaving the house with the family around 1130. Got in the car and rolled my window down (power windows), except it didn't go down all the way. It stopped with about 2-3 inches still to go. I hear the window motor going when I hit the button, but no movement. End result, the window regulator went. pulled the cable out, and wound itself into a complete mess. Of course this happened about 24 hrs ahead of a major rain storm.


----------



## MA_PE

NJM: when it rains..... (I hope you get it squared away easily)

Supe: My son works for enterprise and says the 300 is a really nice car. I thought you were shopping G8s.


----------



## NJmike PE

I have a band aid on it for right now. I was able to manually force the window up and then jam a screw driver into the open door frame, causing the window to rest on it and prevent the window from falling.


----------



## engineergurl

NJmike PE said:


> I have a band aid on it for right now. I was able to manually force the window up and then jam a screw driver into the open door frame, causing the window to rest on it and prevent the window from falling.


2x4 in the door works to, used that before...


----------



## NJmike PE

just ordered a new window motor and regulator combo, as well as a valve cover gasket, to stop the oil leak/ smoking condition. Being a firefighter, it would be bad to have a car fire that I knew I could prevent


----------



## matt267 PE

Did get a new battery yet?


----------



## NJmike PE

nope, but after yesterday morning, I should have added that to the list too. the positive lead was all but separated from the terminal again


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> NJM: when it rains..... (I hope you get it squared away easily)
> 
> Supe: My son works for enterprise and says the 300 is a really nice car. I thought you were shopping G8s.




Apparently all the G8's are gilded in gold. Also, I can't get financing for any OEM that no longer exists should I go that route.


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> NJM: when it rains..... (I hope you get it squared away easily)
> 
> Supe: My son works for enterprise and says the 300 is a really nice car. I thought you were shopping G8s.
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently all the G8's are gilded in gold. Also, I can't get financing for any OEM that no longer exists should I go that route.
Click to expand...

I test drove a G8 before I got my truck. It was a fun drive but I was concerned about buying a car that didn't exist that was built by a company that didn't exist. What about the Chevy SS? Are there enough of those out there that they're starting to show up in the used market yet?


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> NJM: when it rains..... (I hope you get it squared away easily)
> 
> Supe: My son works for enterprise and says the 300 is a really nice car. I thought you were shopping G8s.
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently all the G8's are gilded in gold. Also, I can't get financing for any OEM that no longer exists should I go that route.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I test drove a G8 before I got my truck. It was a fun drive but I was concerned about buying a car that didn't exist that was built by a company that didn't exist. What about the Chevy SS? Are there enough of those out there that they're starting to show up in the used market yet?
Click to expand...

Not even close, all near-new pricing. And I would for sure have buyer's remorse knowing that it's coming out with a manual.


----------



## ptatohed

[SIZE=10.5pt]For the last few weeks my 2001.5 Audi S4 6MT has been up on ramps/jacks/stands as I slowly chip away a few hours here and a few hours there at replacing the restrictive OEM exhaust with a high flow aftermarket system (downpipes + catback). Pretty much got the new system bolted up last night. Now I need to tighten everything, get the o2 sensors plugged back in, reinstall everything I had to remove to get to the exhaust, etc. This is the last 'Stage 2' modification I needed to do so I can now change my ECU program from stock to Stage 2. Should be some nice HP gains.  [/SIZE]


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Prices on the SS will stay high for a while simply due to the limited production rates. They are great cars, but if you want a manual you are basically forced to order one directly from GM.


----------



## Just Some Guy P.E.

Supe said:


> jeb6294 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> NJM: when it rains..... (I hope you get it squared away easily)
> 
> Supe: My son works for enterprise and says the 300 is a really nice car. I thought you were shopping G8s.
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently all the G8's are gilded in gold. Also, I can't get financing for any OEM that no longer exists should I go that route.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I test drove a G8 before I got my truck. It was a fun drive but I was concerned about buying a car that didn't exist that was built by a company that didn't exist. What about the Chevy SS? Are there enough of those out there that they're starting to show up in the used market yet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not even close, all near-new pricing. And I would for sure have buyer's remorse knowing that it's coming out with a manual.
Click to expand...

Same here. That automatic-only-so-dummies-can-drive-it-too turned me off. I'll wait a few years and see where used prices go on the standard shift versions. Or I might not. I'm curious to see what these bring at police auctions: http://www.gmfleet.com/police/chevy-caprice-ppv-patrol-car.html


----------



## Supe

ptatohed said:


> [SIZE=10.5pt]For the last few weeks my 2001.5 Audi S4 6MT has been up on ramps/jacks/stands as I slowly chip away a few hours here and a few hours there at replacing the restrictive OEM exhaust with a high flow aftermarket system (downpipes + catback). Pretty much got the new system bolted up last night. Now I need to tighten everything, get the o2 sensors plugged back in, reinstall everything I had to remove to get to the exhaust, etc. This is the last 'Stage 2' modification I needed to do so I can now change my ECU program from stock to Stage 2. Should be some nice HP gains.  [/SIZE]




S4's meet my criteria, but I have assumed that are incredibly expensive to maintain after seeing far too many of them disassembled at the local dealership where a friend works. What kind of luck have you had with yours with respect to maintenance costs?


----------



## jeb6294

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Prices on the SS will stay high for a while simply due to the limited production rates. They are great cars, but if you want a manual you are basically forced to order one directly from GM.





Huh, I didn't think it was limited production so much as nobody was buying them.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's an imported car from Australia made by Holden.

http://www.kbb.com/car-news/all-the-latest/2014-chevrolet-ss-stopgap-or-jumping-off-point/2000010802/



> So far, sales have been positive in lieu of being artificially low, reflected by General Motors' importation targets of between 3,000 and 5,000 units annually. As of April 2014, Chevrolet has sold 1,148 SS models on the year, which is consistent with the automaker's target.


Also noted in the article is the fact that the Holden plant that makes the car will be closing in 2017, so I wouldn't expect it around much longer unless it makes the jump to the Alpha platform and US production like the Camaro (also previously built on the Zeta platform, but made in Canada)


----------



## ptatohed

Supe said:


> ptatohed said:
> 
> 
> 
> [SIZE=10.5pt]For the last few weeks my 2001.5 Audi S4 6MT has been up on ramps/jacks/stands as I slowly chip away a few hours here and a few hours there at replacing the restrictive OEM exhaust with a high flow aftermarket system (downpipes + catback). Pretty much got the new system bolted up last night. Now I need to tighten everything, get the o2 sensors plugged back in, reinstall everything I had to remove to get to the exhaust, etc. This is the last 'Stage 2' modification I needed to do so I can now change my ECU program from stock to Stage 2. Should be some nice HP gains.  [/SIZE]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S4's meet my criteria, but I have assumed that are incredibly expensive to maintain after seeing far too many of them disassembled at the local dealership where a friend works. What kind of luck have you had with yours with respect to maintenance costs?
Click to expand...

[SIZE=10.5pt]Supe,[/SIZE]

[SIZE=10.5pt]I may not be the best person to ask as I bought my one owner babied '01.5 in 2010 with 80k miles and I think it now has 90k miles. So, in my particular situation, I haven't had to shell out anything unusual for maintenance and repairs. But you are right, the S4, at least my B5 generation S4, is known to potentially dig into your wallet. You ask about maintenance specifically but it isn’t the maintenance that would get you, it’d be the repairs. Nothing beats a Japanese car as far as reliability. So, expect a higher frequency/cost for repairs of European or American cars. In fact, the G8 was listed on Consumer Report’s list of ‘Used Cars to Avoid’ due to poor reliability. But, if you are looking at a newer generation S4, I do think they are a lot more reliable than my B5. Good luck.[/SIZE]


----------



## Supe

Thanks. Need to get in touch with my friend. He knows them in and out, and can give me a heads up if something worth while shows up at the dealership. I for sure would be looking at something 2010 or newer.


----------



## Just Some Guy P.E.

Supe said:


> ptatohed said:
> 
> 
> 
> [SIZE=10.5pt]For the last few weeks my 2001.5 Audi S4 6MT has been up on ramps/jacks/stands as I slowly chip away a few hours here and a few hours there at replacing the restrictive OEM exhaust with a high flow aftermarket system (downpipes + catback). Pretty much got the new system bolted up last night. Now I need to tighten everything, get the o2 sensors plugged back in, reinstall everything I had to remove to get to the exhaust, etc. This is the last 'Stage 2' modification I needed to do so I can now change my ECU program from stock to Stage 2. Should be some nice HP gains.  [/SIZE]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> S4's meet my criteria, but I have assumed that are incredibly expensive to maintain after seeing far too many of them disassembled at the local dealership where a friend works. What kind of luck have you had with yours with respect to maintenance costs?
Click to expand...

Are the Lexus IS and Infiniti G on your list for consideration? Both available with a standard-shift transmission.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The IS is only available in a manual if you get the 4-banger. The larger V6 and IS-F models are automatics.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

If you want a manual transmission with 4 doors, you will either need an inline-4 or a V8 engine. I don't believe there are any 6 cylinder, 4 door cars on the market with a manual transmission. Only V6's with a manual are RWD and never have 4 doors (like the Mustang &amp; Camaro).


----------



## Just Some Guy P.E.

Dexman PE PMP said:


> The IS is only available in a manual if you get the 4-banger. The larger V6 and IS-F models are automatics.


Not true. The 1st-generation IS had the 3.0 liter 2JZ-GE inline 6 as in the Toyota Supra and was available in the US for the '02 to '05 model years with a 5-speed standard shift. (I believe there were only about 5K imported; I have an '04.) The 2nd- and 3rd-generation IS 250 is a V6 and was/is available with a 6-speed standard shift.


----------



## ptatohed

I believe the G35 and G37 were available in stick shift (6MT). Is the replacement (Q50, is it?) still offered in stick? What about the Maxima? I know the Maxima SE (and GXE) was offered in stick shift for many generations, but maybe not the current gen? Lastly, isn't the Mazda 6 available in stick?


----------



## Just Some Guy P.E.

Six-speed standard shift IS 250: http://www.carmax.com/enus/view-car/default.html?id=11448838&amp;AVi=0&amp;No=0&amp;Rp=R&amp;D=90&amp;zip=73034&amp;N=4294962903+283&amp;Q=703a76b3-0ba4-44d2-ba5a-63810818a5ff&amp;Ep=search:results:results%20page

My Lexus IS with a 5-speed standard shift:







And inline 6-cylinder:


----------



## Supe

The IS is a little smaller than I had hoped and I wasn't a big fan of the styling. I was not a fan of just about anything in the G37. On paper it seemed good, but I did drive one, and it was a pig. I guess 4200 lbs curb weight will do that to you.

Potato: Trying to avoid another FWD car, of which the Mazda and Maxima are both.

Dex: There are a few I6 RWD cars out there, including BMW's, but they are off my list unless I found the screaminest deal in the world on an M3.

I am staying on the lookout for a decent S4 to look into further, but am about to cut my losses on the manual trans and be on the lookout for a pristine STS-V. Being that wealthy old farts were the primary new owners, there are a number out there that are low miles, sub $20K, not thrashed on, but are all in the Florida Retirement Triangle (i.e. connect the dots between Naples, Orlando, Tampa.) As much as I LOATHE not having a manual, I do sit in an hour+ of bumper to bumper traffic every day.


----------



## knight1fox3

+1 for the G35. That's what I drive and really like it.


----------



## Road Guy

So dumb question......

Been running the ac in the car all day... What's a "normal" amount of condensation to drip from the car?

Been running all day and it's a steady drip. It's cold water so I am assuming it's from the condenser...

I don't recall running the ac that much last year so I honestly don't really know??(this car)

Sometimes I hate owning fucking old cars...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

with as wet as it's been here lately, I'm not surprised on the condensation.


----------



## Supe

It's not uncommon to have a small pool/lake under the car on hot/humid days.


----------



## jeb6294

I've had giant puddles under my truck the last few days since it's been so humid. I was putting new side steps on over the weekend and checked just to make sure and it was plain ol' water. Should be the only place that you'd get water from a car is A/C condensation. Everything else is a specific color.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah I guess that's what it was, it was just really weird because it look like a steady stream of water for about 15 minutes

I am probably just paranoid because I'm driving the old beast up to Yellowstone and Montana in a couple weeks


----------



## Flyer_PE

^My previous truck ('99 GMC Sierra) would dump a hell of a lot of water from the AC on humid days. I wondered if it was something goofy with the routing of the drain line that caused to have that much water drain out of the system after it was parked.


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> Yeah I guess that's what it was, it was just really weird because it look like a steady stream of water for about 15 minutes
> 
> I am probably just paranoid because I'm driving the old beast up to Yellowstone and Montana in a couple weeks


If you need a AAAPlus tow, I know a number you could use.


----------



## Road Guy

I was assuming you would just come get us?


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> I was assuming you would just come get us?


As long as she brings that bike trailer. What's the weight limit on that again?


----------



## csb

70 pounds


----------



## MetsFan

You would think as an engineer I would know not to put metal caps on metal valve stems... The Touareg told me the tire pressure was low on one of the tires this morning. When I went to take off the cap, it wouldn't budge. I went to grab some pliers and still no dice. Now I'm going to have to resort to other means of taking them off. Hopefully, I won't have to shell out $$$ for four new TPMS.


----------



## Supe

MetsFan said:


> You would think as an engineer I would know not to put metal caps on metal valve stems... The Touareg told me the tire pressure was low on one of the tires this morning. When I went to take off the cap, it wouldn't budge. I went to grab some pliers and still no dice. Now I'm going to have to resort to other means of taking them off. Hopefully, I won't have to shell out $$$ for four new TPMS.




Spray some penetrating oil around the cap, let it soak for a few hours, and take a propane torch and slowly start heating up the cap (just sort of wick the flame onto it every few seconds). It should break free with a twist at that point. You can wrap a wet rag around the valve stem if you're worried about it. I've had to do that once or twice since NHRA mandates metal valve stems/caps on the drag cars.


----------



## MetsFan

Supe said:


> MetsFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> You would think as an engineer I would know not to put metal caps on metal valve stems... The Touareg told me the tire pressure was low on one of the tires this morning. When I went to take off the cap, it wouldn't budge. I went to grab some pliers and still no dice. Now I'm going to have to resort to other means of taking them off. Hopefully, I won't have to shell out $$$ for four new TPMS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spray some penetrating oil around the cap, let it soak for a few hours, and take a propane torch and slowly start heating up the cap (just sort of wick the flame onto it every few seconds). It should break free with a twist at that point. You can wrap a wet rag around the valve stem if you're worried about it. I've had to do that once or twice since NHRA mandates metal valve stems/caps on the drag cars.
Click to expand...



Thanks man, I'll give that a shot tonight if I have time.


----------



## MetsFan

We'll I didn't get a chance to borrow my buddy's torch, so I figured I would try to go slowly after letting them soak for a few hours. I got three out with no problems and then on the last one I started hearing air come out. F... I snapped the threads off the stem along with the seal.

I ended up calling AAA to help me put the spare on. I guess I'm lucky I only snapped one of them.

In other news, the adaptive cornering lights on the bimmer failed. What a crappy car day.


----------



## Supe

MetsFan said:


> We'll I didn't get a chance to borrow my buddy's torch, so I figured I would try to go slowly after letting them soak for a few hours. I got three out with no problems and then on the last one I started hearing air come out. F... I snapped the threads off the stem along with the seal.
> 
> I ended up calling AAA to help me put the spare on. I guess I'm lucky I only snapped one of them.
> 
> In other news, *something on the *bimmer failed. What a *typical day in the life of a BMW owner*.



Fixed.

Sorry to hear about both, though. Hopefully you have one of the normal TPMS sensors that can go on any of the four corners, not one of the retarded ones that have to be individually synched. I have a bad TPMS on at least one of my front tires that needs fixed before my next inspection.

In other news, my POS Saturn is a bigger POS than even I had imagined. They put these little plastic covers over the roof rack mounts, which are recessed into the roof. Those broke off after being embrittled by the sun years ago, and are removed entirely if you use a rack. Well, I just realized driving home yesterday as I looked up at my headliner - they're not sealed even in the folds of the sheet metal where they recess. End result? Water-stained headliner below all four of the damned things.


----------



## P-E

Supe said:


> MetsFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> We'll I didn't get a chance to borrow my buddy's torch, so I figured I would try to go slowly after letting them soak for a few hours. I got three out with no problems and then on the last one I started hearing air come out. F... I snapped the threads off the stem along with the seal.
> 
> I ended up calling AAA to help me put the spare on. I guess I'm lucky I only snapped one of them.
> 
> In other news, *something on the *bimmer failed. What a *typical day in the life of a BMW owner*.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed.
> 
> Sorry to hear about both, though. Hopefully you have one of the normal TPMS sensors that can go on any of the four corners, not one of the retarded ones that have to be individually synched. I have a bad TPMS on at least one of my front tires that needs fixed before my next inspection.
> 
> In other news, my POS Saturn is a bigger POS than even I had imagined. They put these little plastic covers over the roof rack mounts, which are recessed into the roof. Those broke off after being embrittled by the sun years ago, and are removed entirely if you use a rack. Well, I just realized driving home yesterday as I looked up at my headliner - they're not sealed even in the folds of the sheet metal where they recess. End result? Water-stained headliner below all four of the damned things.
Click to expand...

Bad car no donut


----------



## Road Guy

You called AAA to change a tire?


----------



## P-E

I'd rather call AA


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> You called AAA to change a tire?




Haha, I'm paying for it, I might as well use it. It took the guy 15 minutes to change it out. Between jacking up the car, manually removing the bolts, and inflating the tire, it would've taken me at least an hour.


----------



## csb

> Spray some penetrating oil around the cap, let it soak for a few hours, and take a propane torch and slowly start heating up the cap (just sort of wick the flame onto it every few seconds). It should break free with a twist at that point. You can wrap a wet rag around the valve stem if you're worried about it. I've had to do that once or twice since NHRA mandates metal valve stems/caps on the drag cars.




:eyebrows:


----------



## MA_PE

MetsFan said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> You called AAA to change a tire?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I'm paying for it, I might as well use it. It took the guy 15 minutes to change it out. Between jacking up the car, manually removing the bolts, and inflating the tire, it would've taken me at least an hour.
Click to expand...

Bingo. I'd call AAA too. It depends on how long they keep you waiting before you just go ahead and do it yourself.


----------



## Road Guy

smh....


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> smh....


$60/year I want my money's worth.


----------



## Lumber Jim

I called AAA...


----------



## MA_PE

so what's your point?


----------



## Lumber Jim

oking:

"I'm sure lucky I don't have to get my hands dirty" or "The risk of breaking a nail on my mouse clicking finger has been reduced" plays into the decision making as well?

I'd expect it from an EE but a mechanical and structural... we have an image to uphold.


----------



## MA_PE

then I think "why should always do the dirty work?" Truly depends on my mood


----------



## knight1fox3

Lumber Jim said:


> I'd expect it from an EE


----------



## MA_PE

Supe: Did you get the Pontiac out of the paint shop yet? Pics???


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Supe: Did you get the Pontiac out of the paint shop yet? Pics???




I did! There are two spots in the back that he missed some pinhole rust that are bothering me, so I am contemplating just vinyl wrapping the tail light area with a matte black vinyl as a cover-up.


----------



## MA_PE

nice! I love the color. That's a '71 correct? I started driving on my mother's '72 2-door Catalina Brougham


----------



## Supe

73. Color is Pontiac Reef Turquoise. Looks high on the trailer, but that's because the airbags are mostly inflated.


----------



## Supe

They release pics of the new Ford GT endurance racer. All I could think of when I saw it...


----------



## csb

We're looking at a used hippy van. Comments?

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1789572


----------



## Road Guy

$18,500? Did they accidentally add a zero that didn't need to be there?


----------



## Flyer_PE

So there sits a VW van with a Subaru driveline in it. If you're traveling with it and it breaks down, which dealer gets the call?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

csb said:


> We're looking at a used hippy van. Comments?
> 
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1789572


Offer them $2,500.00


----------



## Supe

Flyer_PE said:


> So there sits a VW van with a Subaru driveline in it. If you're traveling with it and it breaks down, which dealer gets the call?




The scrap dealer.


----------



## MA_PE

I don't know the market for these VW vans but I believe it's pretty strong. That being said, my gut instinct says their number is still way out of line and especially for something that needs the work specified. Overall it looks like it's in decent shape and has been cared for. Realistically I might go as high as $6k but not more than that (and yeah I'd start around $2500). You should do some research and see what comparable vehicles are going for.

Edit: I did a quick search on VW Westfalia for sale and it led me to this GoWest site. I'm amazed at the prices on these things. Based on their "sold" list $20k is a bargain :blink:

http://www.gowesty.com/classifieds.php


----------



## Road Guy

But it has a aftermarket tachometer?


----------



## engineergurl

csb said:


> We're looking at a used hippy van. Comments?
> 
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1789572




I guess I question if you are going to spend a significant amount of money (and I consider anything over $3000 significant for a car), why wouldn't you want something that is easily worked on? Is this for your drive around vehicle or would you use it as a true conversion van?

I can say that having riden in plenty of these types of vehicles in college, the comfort level sucks, you can get high off of the engine fumes if you sit in the rear (I didn't look just assumed this had the engine in the rear like many of them).

I guess it sort of depends on your reasons for the purchase, but if you do get it, don't turn into the pretentious prick most hippies end up like.


----------



## csb

I'm already a pretentious prick. This wouldn't be a drive around vehicle, because that's what my bike is for. This is a headed to the mountains vehicle, which is why I like the Subaru conversion. I still don't feel like I need a car.

Off to hug trees and shit and tell people they aren't living right.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> I'm already a pretentious prick. This wouldn't be a drive around vehicle, because that's what my bike is for. This is a headed to the mountains vehicle, which is why I like the Subaru conversion. I still don't feel like I need a car.
> 
> Off to hug trees and shit and tell people they aren't living right.




The bike probably has more power for mountain climbing.


----------



## matt267 PE

csb said:


> Off to hug trees....


----------



## Road Guy

It does look like fun for a small family for camping, honest question, will a 2.2 L really get a loaded van up into the mountains?

my 5.3 L V8 somewhat struggles when the Tahoe is loaded down driving up way into the mountains


----------



## csb

Not at 80, but probably a lot better than the original engine. People report driving 70 mph up Vail Pass in the Subaru conversions.


----------



## Supe

Begs the question, though - why not just buy a Subaru? Is it because you're not a lesbian?


----------



## csb

I can't sleep in a Subaru, plus it doesn't have the neato pop up tent.

And...I'm not a lesbian.

I've also been considering a Sprinter van. Yesterday I saw three of them on my way back to the office from a meeting. It seemed like a sign. A super expensive sign, but a sign.


----------



## Road Guy

So is there an upstairs bunk where the tent pops up at?

We saw a lot of those at our campground at Yellowstone, but didn't get to close to look at them, the people using them looked gluten free to me..


----------



## Road Guy

when the kids are gone I envision getting one of those small tear drop trailers, we like to camp, lots of shit to see out here, but when I am in my 50's a mattress will be nice..


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

And what is wrong with one of these??


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> So is there an upstairs bunk where the tent pops up at?


IIRC on the original vanagons that popup tent is above the van roof with an access hatch, so you sleep on the roof under the tent.


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> So is there an upstairs bunk where the tent pops up at?
> 
> We saw a lot of those at our campground at Yellowstone, but didn't get to close to look at them, the people using them looked gluten free to me..




Many of them it's just extra headroom to stand at the sink.

I was raised by people who had this complete set:


----------



## csb

Ship Wreck PE said:


> And what is wrong with one of these??




I'm short about $2.5M.


----------



## Supe

Calling CSB - your dream ride awaits:

http://indefinitelywild.gizmodo.com/how-i-turned-my-subaru-outback-into-a-real-adventuremob-1716068985


----------



## MetsFan

The bimmer finally passed inspection! After spending a ton of money on repairs and tires, the check engine light came on a day before the sticker expired. Cylinder 4 misfire... I cleared it and spent the weekend driving a bit hoping it wouldn't come back. It didn't, so I now have till next July to find another car.


----------



## csb

HFS! They put an awning on the thing! I need to call my girlfriend.

I liked this quote: It’s the reason why Camaro owners will unendingly argue that they _are_ actually able to see out of their cars, even though that car ships without windows.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Windows-shmindows


----------



## Supe

So I might buy a Porsche this weekend.

A friend of mine has a race-prepped 944 ready to roll at BFF pricing. If I don't race soon and keep my license current, it's going to cost a lot of time and money to get it back. I'm thinking I'll buy the car, race it until my RX7 is finished, and then either lease it out as a weekend rental or sell it for $700 or so more than I paid for it. The car recently had everything imaginable replaced to run the Chumpcar enduro race, and even comes with a functional beer keg to mount in the rear (no joke, he's German and that was their chumpcar theme in the "Nein Four Four").


----------



## csb

Can I buy it for $700? It can be a daily driver, right?


----------



## Supe

If you add another 0 after that, but before the decimal place maybe? I suppose you could DD it, albeit a little wet on rainy days. I assume you're pretty limber, though, so the door bars shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## kevo_55

Are you gonna take it to the race track Supe??


----------



## Supe

kevo_55 said:


> Are you gonna take it to the race track Supe??




That would be the intent. It's a gutted, caged race car. I COULD register it in NC if I took it to the right guy, but I wouldn't.


----------



## Supe

So I ended up buying the 944, and cannot get the thing to run above 3000 RPM. Something is not metering air/fuel correctly. Have replaced, coil, plugs, AFM, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure damper, all 4 injectors, vacuum lines, TPS, and probably some other shit to no avail. It just hits a wall, and sits there. Myself and some knowledgable 944 people are stumped. Car will be headed to Touring Car Inc. sometime this week to let the pros figure out this German car shit. The guy I bought it from is going to foot the bill for it.


----------



## Supe

Of course the real down side to this is that I will not be able to make the Daylight to Darkness time trial at Charlotte Motor Speedway on Friday


----------



## csb

I got your TPS.


----------



## Road Guy

So last July i got new tires for my ho (tahoe). We had used the east coast equivalent of Big O tires back home and had really good luck with them. So i got a similar tire last year. So i went in to bitch about how fast they had worn- they may get me halfway through winter- and the guy looked at my records and i have put over 40,000 miles on them since i put them on. I think they are 55,000 mile tires.(warranty)  . Cant believe i am putting that many miles on this car...

60+ miles total commute + ski weekend + scout trips + a trip to yellowstone and moab ads up fast!!

Now if i could just find where i put those expense checks from work ...

The all terrain tire was probably a poor choice for as much driving as i am doing also....


----------



## Supe

Do you have Discount Tire out there? We've had great luck with them. The GF bought a set of tires, and drove to Vermont that same weekend. On the way back, she cut a sidewall on a drainage grate. Even though she should not have been covered under warranty, they gave her a replacement tire for $22. They will also price match everything. Not like for like on the item, but inclusive of service. So if I found something on Tire Rack, and it would cost X dollars to ship + whatever to mount/balance each, DT will give me the same all-in price.


----------



## snickerd3

ditto on discount tire. they are awesome


----------



## MA_PE

Yesh, I use Tire Rsck as the "equalizer". I go on TR and pick a specfic tire then call some local shops to compare prices on the specific model tire. If the total installed price is similar I go with the local guy. Alternately if the TR price is really good, I'llbuy online and just go to a local shop for installation and balancing


----------



## Road Guy

I'm thinking it was more the miles than the actual tire- they still have decent tread left, jut not what I would prefer for driving up in the mtns...they will probably go to the 55K mile mark.

We had a really bad experience at DT a long time ago, maybe I will give them another shot. I will probably wait until after the winter "rush" and get some mid November

If I end up giving the tahoe to my son in November, when he can drive I may just hold off, he will mostly be driving in the flat parts of Denver and see what I end up getting for myself..


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> So last July i got new tires for my ho (tahoe). We had used the east coast equivalent of Big O tires back home and had really good luck with them. So i got a similar tire last year. So i went in to bitch about how fast they had worn- they may get me halfway through winter- and the guy looked at my records and i have put over 40,000 miles on them since i put them on. I think they are 55,000 mile tires.(warranty)  . Cant believe i am putting that many miles on this car...
> 
> 60+ miles total commute + ski weekend + scout trips + a trip to yellowstone and moab ads up fast!!
> 
> Now if i could just find where i put those expense checks from work ...
> 
> The all terrain tire was probably a poor choice for as much driving as i am doing also....


40K miles on a set of tires seems pretty good to me, but that's only because the OEM tires on my Touareg only lasted 23K and the Continentals I bought for my bimmer lasted only 15K miles...


----------



## engineergurl

I buy usually used tires because I tend to "pop" them faster than I can wear out the tread.


----------



## knight1fox3

Saw one of these on the highway the other day. Is this really what the Renegade has become? :huh:


----------



## Supe

Renegayed.


----------



## engineergurl

the whole new line sucks


----------



## csb

knight1fox3 said:


> Saw one of these on the highway the other day. Is this really what the Renegade has become? :huh:




Yes, and I know this because my mother bought one. She has been exclusively a sports car person and she bought this. There's little jeeps all over the thing. There's a little Willy's climbing the windshield, there's grills on the rear lights...it's like the fricking hidden Mickeys at Disneyland.

P.S. Heh heh...little willies.

P.P.S. This Mickey






not this Mickey's






P.P.P.S Hee hee..."pee pee"


----------



## Road Guy

that is so sad


----------



## csb

It's shorter than a Kia Soul.


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> It's shorter than a Kia Soul.


That's what she said....

I'm on a roll today!


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> that is so sad


The jeep or csb's post? 
How can anyone be a "sports car" person and buy one of those? I don't get it.


----------



## csb

Because she's a "sports car" person and not an actual sports car person. She was last driving one of these:


----------



## MA_PE

So you meant "sporty" car person. And even that's a stretch.


----------



## Road Guy

Well if people are going to start calling station wagons SUV's.....


----------



## Supe

That's like calling a Toyota Camry a race car "because they run them in NASCAR!"


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> That's like calling a Toyota Camry a race car "because they run them in NASCAR!"


Or a Mustang...


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> Well if people are going to start calling station wagons SUV's.....


not me. I like a station wagon. I miss our '93 Caprice Classic Wagon.

Just went to a car show and one guy had a '66 Chevy estate wagon. full size car with a 427 and a 4-speed. Very cool.


----------



## Supe

The Porsche is fixed! Turns out the ECU took a dump. Guy swapped it out of another car, test drove it, said it pulls clean all the way up to redline. Going to pick it up first thing tomorrow morning, finish installing the rear hatch and move the seat forward, and be ready to race come Friday morning!


----------



## MA_PE

nice. Go Supe Racer, go!


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Road Guy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well if people are going to start calling station wagons SUV's.....
> 
> 
> 
> not me. I like a station wagon. I miss our '93 Caprice Classic Wagon.
> 
> Just went to a car show and one guy had a '66 Chevy estate wagon. full size car with a 427 and a 4-speed. Very cool.
Click to expand...

How about this bad boy? :dunno:






Metallic pea....


----------



## MA_PE

The Clark family truckster is a classic!


----------



## envirotex

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's like calling a Toyota Camry a race car "because they run them in NASCAR!"
> 
> 
> 
> Or a Mustang...
Click to expand...

Hey! Watch it there, mister...


----------



## engineergurl

envirotex said:


> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's like calling a Toyota Camry a race car "because they run them in NASCAR!"
> 
> 
> 
> Or a Mustang...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey! Watch it there, mister...
Click to expand...



but they don't use Mustangs... I think it's like a ford Prius now days... (just kidding, they run the Taurus or Fusion or something like that, the Prius is the pace car)


----------



## Supe

Well, ran Charlotte on Friday. What a trip. Had some definite jitters early on where I'm telling myself "I'm on the NASCAR banks at Charlotte Motor Speedway".

Missed the warmup lap due to a seatbelt malfunction, ended up missing the turnoff for pit row at the end. Whoops. Smooth sailing other than that. Porsche is ungodly slow compared to what I was used to driving (could only muster 115 MPH on the back straight), but the tires sucked so much it was a freakin' blast to drive. The entire infield road course was one giant slip and slide as I had no grip whatsoever. NASCAR turn 2 is wild. Even with a pretty miniscule head of steam, the compression on the banking is enough to bottom out the suspension.

Still ended up winning my class as the only entry (w00t), but more importantly, despite being down many horsepowers and lots of grip, still finished within 5 seconds of another very well sorted car with a top notch driver. I must not be as terrible a driver as I remembered. Only bad part of the race was that I found the starter solenoid literally hanging from the bottom of the car after the last heat, but had a great time otherwise.

Will be running my next race in September... on much better tires.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

engineergurl said:


> envirotex said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's like calling a Toyota Camry a race car "because they run them in NASCAR!"
> 
> 
> 
> Or a Mustang...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey! Watch it there, mister...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> but they don't use Mustangs... I think it's like a ford Prius now days... (just kidding, they run the Taurus or Fusion or something like that, the Prius is the pace car)
Click to expand...

False. They are run in the Busch/Nationwide/Xfinity series. The Fusion is run in the Sprint Cup and pace cars vary by race.


----------



## engineergurl

Dexman PE PMP said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> envirotex said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's like calling a Toyota Camry a race car "because they run them in NASCAR!"
> 
> 
> 
> Or a Mustang...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey! Watch it there, mister...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> but they don't use Mustangs... I think it's like a ford Prius now days... (just kidding, they run the Taurus or Fusion or something like that, the Prius is the pace car)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> False. They are run in the Busch/Nationwide/Xfinity series. The Fusion is run in the Sprint Cup and pace cars vary by race.
Click to expand...



no body actually watches those races


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Doesn't mean they don't exist.


----------



## envirotex




----------



## Supe

So there's an '06 S430 Mercedes for sale out in the parking garage. 100k miles, AMG Sport package, interior looks mint, exterior looks good aside from very minor paint wear and tear (scratch or two near trunk on rear bumper, a few speckled road chips up front.) They're asking $12k, I bet I could get it for $9k. Sure would take care of my "need a sedan" problem...


----------



## snickerd3

why would you ever "Need" a sedan?


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> why would you ever "Need" a sedan?




Because a two door hatch back is not conducive to toting kids around, especially when those kids are on the big side for their age bracket. All daily drivers moving forward will have 4 doors.


----------



## snickerd3

ah! you already have a small car. I am a large vehicle sort of person, MPG be damned. I learned how to drive in a chevy astro van and have never really been comfortable driving small cars.


----------



## Supe

When I had the rental Cadillac DTS, I was in love. This is pretty much a DTS, just RWD and with even more options. If the DTS wasn't wrong wheel drive, I would already have one parked in the driveway. I really want an STS-V, but they're still commanding way too much money for what they are.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> When I had the rental Cadillac DTS, I was in love. This is pretty much a DTS, just RWD and with even more options. If the DTS wasn't wrong wheel drive, I would already have one parked in the driveway. I really want an STS-V, but they're still commanding way too much money for what they are.


I had an XTS as a rental. I want one.


----------



## envirotex

For luxury SUV/crossovers, I'd rather have this...waiting for some used ones to come around.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The GLA's are nice. The AMG version though was a bit too "ricey" for a $55k+ vehicle. Mrs Dex really likes the GLA-250.


----------



## envirotex

^^^Me, too.


----------



## MetsFan

I test drove the new GTI this weekend and didn't come away too impressed. Sure it's fast, but it's also loud and a bit harsh.

So maybe I'm not ready to give up on my car yet but this rough idle issue is making me think twice. I had a cylinder 4 misfire a couple of months ago, which I cleared. The code never came back but the rough idle is still there. I swapped the cylinder 3 and ignition coils to see if the code would switch to cylinder 3, but it's still not throwing any codes. I don't know what to do at this point.


----------



## Supe

Have you done basic maintenance? (Plugs, wires). My Astra started missing badly around 55k miles. It was throwing VIR codes (variable intake), surging/sputtering, etc. Sure enough, it was worn plugs and nothing more. A byproduct of a high compression motor being detuned for the US market.


----------



## MetsFan

What are wires? Plugs are supposedly due at 100K and my car is at 73K, so I was waiting to see if the ignition coil was bad first. If no codes are thrown, I might just go ahead and do it though.

edit: oh spark plug wires. My car has ignition coils sitting on top of them, so if anything I would have to change those.


----------



## MA_PE

It's my understanding that you shouldn't have to change coil packs to change wires but I don't know what kind of car/engine you've got


----------



## MetsFan

I have a 2007 BMW 3 series. There are wires that plug into the ignition coil but I don't think I've seen any mention of anyone changing those in the forums.

Here's a video of what it looks like, skip to 4:30

&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0aL1H_ZWxU


----------



## MA_PE

I see now. These motors dont have traditional spark plug wires, instead the coil connects directly to the plug. Despite the manual statinga 100k interval for plugs, you might try changing them out now at 73k. It couldn't hurt, isn't terribly expensive, and looking at the plug tips will give you an indication of how clean they are burning.

Here's a another nice write up I found for changing the plugs.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=174217


----------



## MetsFan

You're right, at $100 it might not be a bad idea them out to see if it helps. Thanks for the link, I actually frequent that board pretty often too, haha.


----------



## csb

This listing on ebay has everything except "IMMA GONNA RAPE YOU, THEN KILL YOU, THEN RAPE YOU SOME MORE."

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Sprinter-Base-Standard-Cargo-Van-3-Door-/121727607047


----------



## Flyer_PE

^All it's missing is a "Free Candy" sign on the side.


----------



## csb

It was creepy and then I saw the mattress in the pictures. I almost wonder if it's a joke.


----------



## MA_PE

I don't think it's a joke but the mattress in the back is pretty strange. someone probably lives in it down by the river.


----------



## Road Guy

I think Rape vans have to be white.


----------



## csb

So this one is safe?


----------



## Ken PE 3.1

Interesting way to dump a suspect vehicle


----------



## Supe

Porsche is loaded on the trailer and ready to head back to the Dragon Hillclimb on Friday. New starter is in and working good so far (knock on wood). A racer friend of mine gave me some nearly new race tires for FREE (they would have cost me about $1100 mounted and balanced) which is awesome. Car is going to be slow, but I'm really looking forward to getting back up there and running! I will have to cut my runs early on Sunday, though. Have to be packed up and out of there by 11:00 or so to haul ass to a friends wedding about 2.5 hours east of there, where we will all have to shower, change, and drop the car/trailer off for the night.


----------



## slickjohannes

Anybody else deal with the racket mandated by the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania known as safety inspection?

Seems every year I need new calipers.... I'm just going to start replacing pads before the inspection... How I miss the (inspectionless) state of Ohio.


----------



## envirotex

Texas also has annual safety inspections. The emissions standards change after your vehicle is a certain number of years old.


----------



## slickjohannes

How do they change?

I just ordered a new cat in attempt to get my Idiot light to go off. Can't pass with the light on... Though it is rumored that they can pass you if you can prove you spent $100 or more in attemp to fix the problem (see my previous comments about a racket).


----------



## Ken PE 3.1

slickjohannes said:


> Anybody else deal with the racket mandated by the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania known as safety inspection?
> 
> Seems every year I need new calipers.... I'm just going to start replacing pads before the inspection... How I miss the (inspectionless) state of Ohio.


Defectors are always welcomed back.


----------



## snickerd3

ugh...i have a taillight out on my car. haven't the foggiest idea how long it has been out. I don't usually use my car in the evenings so I haven't driven at night to notice. A colleague was following me to a site and noticed it on the drive over.


----------



## slickjohannes

What other states do not have inspections? I think I will base my future job search on this attribute.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Ga done away with inspections 20 years ago


----------



## slickjohannes

Too hot.


----------



## akwooly

AK zero. unless in Anchorage, i think they have emissions inspection.


----------



## Road Guy

I was surprised to hear that Texas did inspections usually that something reserve for the Yankees states in the Northeast

Only omissions inspection/revenue generation here in Colorado


----------



## envirotex

^^^Money grab.


----------



## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> I was surprised to hear that Texas did inspections usually that something reserve for the Yankees states in the Northeast
> 
> Only omissions inspection/revenue generation here in Colorado


Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, Virginia and West Virginia all require periodic safety inspections. So it's fairly prevalent in the South as well as the Northeast.


----------



## Road Guy

I think that's cause all the Northeasterners have moved down south..... like locusts they consume all their natural resources and then move on...


----------



## MA_PE

MA has a pretty thorough inspection that is tied to state computers so it's rather difficult to get around infractinos,especially emissions. The computer taps into the ODBII port so it can see error codes and whatveer history is stored. They also prohibit any "sharp edges". So if you've got an older car that's rusting from the damn road salt and the rust goes through the boddy panel and leaves an edge, then you've got to cover it somehow. This leads to massive areas of duct tape on car covering the rust holes.


----------



## Road Guy

I think shy of tires (where it snows) its all just a shell game they play to make money...


----------



## MA_PE

yes and no. It does make it difficult to drive a dangerous vehicle (even if you wan to) and you have to provide a valid registration and you need proof of insurance to have a valid registration, so it's another means of keeping uninsured vehicles aren't on the road.

Of course there are still unregisterd, uninsured, and uninspected vehicles running around waiting to ticketed.


----------



## Road Guy

but cant the tag office handle that? You have to provide proof of insurance and registration to get your tag?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

License plates are only held on by 2 or 4 screws. Plus, anytime one is left on the side of the road after a car accident, guess where it goes...

And those year stickers are insanely easy to peel off.


----------



## Road Guy

usually in most states tampering with a tag is a "go to jail" offense - not a ticket


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Just think about all of those POS cars in the right lane going 10 under the speed limit. It's not because they can't go faster, they just don't want anyone to look twice at them.


----------



## MetsFan

Dexman PE PMP said:


> License plates are only held on by 2 or 4 screws. Plus, anytime one is left on the side of the road after a car accident, guess where it goes...
> 
> And those year stickers are insanely easy to peel off.




Yep, one of my coworkers from my old job peeled stole a registration sticker off another car to put on her car.


----------



## MA_PE

passenger registrations (except special registrations like vanity plates) are renewed every 2 years (inspections are annually). Driving an unregisterd/uninsured vehicle is an arrest warrant/court offense as opposed to a ticket.


----------



## Road Guy

I got pulled over for a suspected altered tag (crumpled tag due to a wreck) years ago, luckily I still had an active military ID at the time, but I was put in the back of the police car until they figured out that I wasn't running drugs from Miami. Cop told me to remove the tag and throw it away and drive straight to dmv to get a new one and that suspected altered tags usually take you straight to jail- he let me go cause I was in the military, but it was a little unnerving...


----------



## engineergurl

inspections (or the lack of them being needed) is why keep our cars registered in bama


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The emissions requirements are only needed along the I-25 corridor here in CO. Once you get about 50 miles either side of the freeway, nothing is needed.


----------



## Supe

Well, I survived the weekend!

Target time for the mountain was a 150. The guy who ran an S2 model 944 earlier this year laid down a 144 (208HP and stiffer suspension vs. my 144 HP base model).

Rained all Saturday morning - first four runs were pretty pathetic. Got one run in where the course was dry on the bottom, laid down a 148.8.

Sunday morning, course dry at the bottom and most of the top. Only got two runs in since I had to leave for the wedding. First run was a 148.6. Last run, decided car was going on the trailer whether it was running or not. Quick into turn 1, did not lift at all for the next 3. Downshifted for the wicked right hander, did not lift again for the next 3. Got into the snakeskin esses - whoooo, this is getting sketchy, but I'm staying in it! A little lift before WOT into the final turn, across the line in... 143.

Man oh man, was that last run ever fun. That bone-ass-stock car is the most neutral handling thing I've ever driven. When the tires let go, all 4 went at the same time for some controlled 3-4 foot slides. I think if I took a bit more weight out of the car and used stickier tires to let me go flat out into two of the turns, there could even be a 139.999 hiding in that thing somewhere...

Scariest part of the entire weekend? Driving the truck and trailer down 28 south from western NC into GA. My shoulders are killing me today. And I still beat Google's time by 1 minute...


----------



## Road Guy

that sounds like a lot of fun, so do they get a permit to close the road? (dumb question)

---

So Saturday the wife drove up to pick up one of our kids from horse riding nonsense, on the way home she calls terrified cause her car is smoking up (on the inside) she thinks the hybrid battery is on fire, she pulls over, runs away from the vehicle, calls 911, AAA, me, etc...

I drive to the scene and find the fire department chuckling cause apparently she drove around 20 miles with the parking brake on 

now we have a thousand warning lights on the car, hopefully its just the parking brake and didn't affect much else, but it was a un needed crisis on a day before I had to go out of town..


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> that sounds like a lot of fun, so do they get a permit to close the road? (dumb question)
> 
> ---




Yes. Permits come from DOT, Forest Service, Fire Marshall, and Sheriff's Office. They have some pretty strict regulations, but we've never had any issues. (e.g. when refueling, you HAVE to have someone there doing a fire watch, extinguisher in hand.) We coordinate a lot of it through the woman in charge of county tourism, who has been wonderful to work with. Unfortunately, our current board of directors is sort of running it into the ground...


----------



## MetsFan

The check engine light for my car finally came back on. I guess since I've only driven about 1,000 miles in the last 4 months, it's taken a while to come back. I haven't had a chance to check it yet, but hopefully this will tell me if it's the coil pack, spark plugs, or something else.


----------



## snickerd3

just dropped $50 yesterday on getting a rock (or hail) chip fixed on my windshield.


----------



## Supe

Here's one for all you vehicular love makers out there (SFW):

http://jalopnik.com/inside-the-bizarre-world-of-chinas-badly-photoshopped-i-1731451832


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I don't care what anyone says, the Camaro is not a very comfortable vehicle for that stuff.


----------



## Road Guy

So apparently my wife's failure to turn off the parking brain fried the antilock brake system and now I've got to shit out 2500 bucks


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Turn off parking brain, turn on driving brain. Otherwise activate budget brain.


----------



## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> So apparently my wife's failure to turn off the parking brain fried the antilock brake system and now I've got to shit out 2500 bucks




I had a simple fix for this when the anitlock started acting up on the Bronco. Pulled the fuse to the antilock system.


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> So apparently my wife's failure to turn off the parking brain fried the antilock brake system and now I've got to shit out 2500 bucks




It sucks when stupid things like that cost so much to fix. Last winter I opened the door to the Touareg while backing up. Next thing you know, I cracked the bottom cladding on the door. It took 2 seconds to damage it, but it's going to cost around $300 to fix. Granted, it's purely cosmetic so I shouldn't even worry about it, but still.

I finally pulled the code on the bimmer and it looks like it's just the coil pack. The part only cost $30, so hopefully that's all it needs.


----------



## Road Guy

there is a small chance they may just be able to bleed out the brake lines but well see... always a shitty way to start off a weekend


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> So apparently my wife's failure to turn off the parking brain fried the antilock brake system and now I've got to shit out 2500 bucks




My husband's truck has an alarm that sounds if he tries to drive with the parking brake on, never mind the dash light.


----------



## Road Guy

not sure if its the fucking cheap Toyota or the cheap....

it had a light but doesn't make any noise


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

My ford truck makes a bunch of dinging noises if you leave park brake on.


----------



## csb

HIs truck is a Toyota.

Sorry to hear about it. I have a AAA membership you can use if it breaks down.


----------



## Road Guy

so now it may only be $300, bleeding the gas lines worked...

don't know if its the hybrid or the Toyota but they make too many GD warning lights...of course most people notice them and pull over and don't wait for the smoke to fill the car..

somehow this will be my fault....


----------



## MA_PE

my car feels really sluggish if I try to drive with the brakes on. Hope the bleed works RG.


----------



## engineergurl

my car won't move if I have the parking brake on


----------



## knight1fox3

engineergurl said:


> my car won't move if I have the parking brake on


Wanna bet?


----------



## MA_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> my car won't move if I have the parking brake on
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna bet?
Click to expand...

X2. you need to give it more gas.


----------



## Road Guy

we (she) got lucky, just $300 (lol "just")


----------



## engineergurl

MA_PE said:


> knight1fox3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> my car won't move if I have the parking brake on
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna bet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> X2. you need to give it more gas.
Click to expand...

Why would I do that? Then I would end up like RG and have to spend money fixing it, duh.


----------



## knight1fox3

engineergurl said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> knight1fox3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> engineergurl said:
> 
> 
> 
> my car won't move if I have the parking brake on
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna bet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> X2. you need to give it more gas.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would I do that? Then I would end up like RG and have to spend money fixing it, duh.
Click to expand...

Uh....for science......oh and fun.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I can reverse down the driveway with it, but will stall with the parking brake on trying to go forward.


----------



## Lumber Jim

look around to make sure there are no cops, get going about 30, set the parking brake, and then steer left...


----------



## Road Guy

I tried it in her car I really don't see how she did it, I had a hard time driving around the neighborhood for more than 1/2 a mile with it on, it doesn't make a noise and their is an idiot light, but the car really struggled (has no power anyways)


----------



## csb

How do you tell when a Prius has lost power?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

When you stop pedaling.


----------



## FLBuff PE

When you start it up.


----------



## Supe

Check if the rubber band is broken.


----------



## MetsFan

I finally fixed the rough idle issue in my car with the $30 coil. I'm glad it wasn't anything more serious. This also means getting a new car doesn't make sense at this point. The only other thing I need to fix is the adaptive headlights, but from what I've read, it will need a whole new headlight assembly. I can live with the stationary lights.


----------



## Road Guy

so my car (2002 Tahoe) does a weird thing in the mornings, only in the mornings, when I get in the car everything works fine, but at my first "stop" when I get out of the car, my door locks, windows, etc wont work, Have to manually lock or unlock all the doors. Once I get back in it works fine for the rest of the day, until the next morning???

Neither the Key Fob nor the switches on the door will work (one time) in the morning?

Does my car need coffee?


----------



## MA_PE

Gremlins


----------



## snickerd3

Road Guy said:


> so my car (2002 Tahoe) does a weird thing in the mornings, only in the mornings, when I get in the car everything works fine, but at my first "stop" when I get out of the car, my door locks, windows, etc wont work, Have to manually lock or unlock all the doors. Once I get back in it works fine for the rest of the day, until the next morning???
> 
> Neither the Key Fob nor the switches on the door will work (one time) in the morning?
> 
> Does my car need coffee?


what are the temps is the morning out there?


----------



## Road Guy

50


----------



## snickerd3

poltergeist for sure!

j/k


----------



## knight1fox3

Does this pricing seem reasonable keeping in mind it needs to be done at the dealership? 2011 FX-35 w/ approx. 80k miles. Cross-over type vehicle averaging 15-20k miles per year.

*Shocks $1,045.90 installed*

*Struts $727.06 installed*

*Tires $1,213 installed, balanced, and alignment. This is a sale price good to the end of September for Bridgestone tires.*

Price on tires seems high to me having just put all 4 new tires on my sedan. So we'll likely get those elsewhere. Any feedback appreciated, thanks.


----------



## csb

I had tires put on in 2013 for $400 at the dealership.


----------



## Road Guy

I always do shocks myself, you can get high end shocks for $75 to $100 bucks and it takes about an hour of your time for each (for the front) should be able to do the rear in less than an hour..

Last time I got quotes from the stealership on shocks they were $50/EA shock (for installation). And it probably takes them no time at all compared to doing it yourself..

No clue on struts..

I think a set of 4 tires usually runs close to a grand for an above average tire


----------



## knight1fox3

Opted for the upgrade on the rental...


----------



## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> Does this pricing seem reasonable keeping in mind it needs to be done at the dealership? 2011 FX-35 w/ approx. 80k miles. Cross-over type vehicle averaging 15-20k miles per year.
> 
> *Shocks $1,045.90 installed*
> 
> *Struts $727.06 installed*
> 
> *Tires $1,213 installed, balanced, and alignment. This is a sale price good to the end of September for Bridgestone tires.*
> 
> Price on tires seems high to me having just put all 4 new tires on my sedan. So we'll likely get those elsewhere. Any feedback appreciated, thanks.




In comparison to other cars, shocks are absurd, struts border on high, tires border on high but is really dependent on size. I'm genuinely surprised to see the shocks so much higher than the struts, as the struts often involve more labor. I've never touched a car where the rear shocks required more than three bolts to remove and replace. As a point of reference, my Koni racing shocks and struts combined cost about what they're charging you for shocks...


----------



## Supe

Also just checked Rock Auto for an 03 FX-35 (shouldn't be much different through later years) - $55/ea struts, $47 ea shocks. Even at a shop rate of $80/hr, that would still equate to about an 18 hr job...

Sounds like this dealership wants to give you the ol' struggle snuggle.


----------



## MA_PE

Dealerships are always high, and especially on higher end cars. Most dealers provide a detailed itemized invoice showing the cost. Equivalent or better aftermarket parts are always cheaper as is labor and shop costs. As Supe says it's really surprising that shocks are more than struts as struts are combined shocks and springs. Does the car have automatic load leveling or variable suspension stiffness ( performance vs comfort or something like that). Price the exact same parts and see what's available. You always pay more for names like Bridgestone or Michelin. There are cheaper equivalent tires around. I use tire rack.com to compare.

End result is dealerships are always high. Jmho.


----------



## MetsFan

knight1fox3 said:


> Does this pricing seem reasonable keeping in mind it needs to be done at the dealership? 2011 FX-35 w/ approx. 80k miles. Cross-over type vehicle averaging 15-20k miles per year.
> 
> *Shocks $1,045.90 installed*
> 
> *Struts $727.06 installed*
> 
> *Tires $1,213 installed, balanced, and alignment. This is a sale price good to the end of September for Bridgestone tires.*
> 
> Price on tires seems high to me having just put all 4 new tires on my sedan. So we'll likely get those elsewhere. Any feedback appreciated, thanks.




I don't know about shocks and struts, but that's about how much I paid for tires on my Touareg. I have an odd size so tires are around $270 a piece. Definitely check tirerack.com to see how much you can get tires for. I had my tires/balancing/alignment done at Town Fair Tire since they offered free lifetime rotations and they pricematch tirerack.


----------



## Supe

Discount Tire will also price match Tire Rack's all in cost, i.e. tires, shipping, and then cost you'd pay to have TR tires mounted and balanced.


----------



## Road Guy

I paid $165/ tire (plus all the other BS they throw in) for Big O's equivalent of the BF Goodrich all terrain tire, they did last close to 40K miles, but Ive sadly got to get at least two new ones in the next month before the snow falls, I cant really stand discount tire but will probably give them a whirl...

I found out my old lady had actually been putting all my expense checks in a separate savings account so all the miles I have been driving will be able to cover a new set...

I guess 40K miles is good for driving an AT tire on the freeway a lot, but this was the set that I religiously rotated every 5K miles and two of them are just about gone


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Tires are size/type dependent for price. I just replaced a rear tire for $230 (one tire). Granted, it's a 275/40/R20 high-performance, all-season tire.

For $2k I can put adjustable coilovers on the Camaro, but I would do the install myself.


----------



## knight1fox3

Thanks for all the feedback and info. Sounds like the place that originally quoted us saw that it was an Infiniti and just started adding up the bill. The BIL who help manage a repair shop suggested getting new tires and an alignment and THEN seeing what the shocks/struts look like (he's thinking they are fine). So I think we're going to go that route for now.


----------



## Supe

How many miles on the shocks/struts in there now?


----------



## knight1fox3

Right around 83k. And we generally do about 15k-20k miles/yr.


----------



## Road Guy

So I decided to upgrade my duct tape job on my armrest with some of my kids camouflage duct tape, I think it looks pretty good damn near invisible


----------



## matt267 PE

What armrest?


----------



## MetsFan

So here's a weird story. My sister sent me an email asking me if I thought this sounded right. She called a dealership to order parts and the guy told her he would call her back when they arrived. The guy called her back from his personal phone and told her he was going to get her a [five finger] discount. She called the dealership back and the guy tells her he's going to check on the status. He later texts her back telling her not to call the dealership because that is a recorded line. He wanted to meet up with her this morning before his shift at some parking lot to sell her the parts. She luckily didn't go through with it, but man what a dbag.


----------



## matt267 PE

Was is a VW dealer? They like to blow smoke up people's ass'.


----------



## Supe

Looks like I will have a co-driver at this weekends race. Friend who I haven't seen in a while doesn't have his car ready but would like some seat time. It will be good to have a more experienced driver in the car to compare lap times to for once, although he will likely baby the car.


----------



## MetsFan

matt267 said:


> Was is a VW dealer? They like to blow smoke up people's ass'.




Haha, nope, Mazda


----------



## Road Guy

confession: I went and drove a Subaru Crosstrek over the weekend, one of those fugly burnt orange ones...pretty fun to drive, really want a 5 speed but they said they would have to order one? that seemed odd to me..

I really want a 4 door jeep but its just not in the cards money wise and the rear seat is tiny as hell....prices on used ones have some down but don't want to get another car with 40K miles on it..

thinking about getting one and giving the 16 year old the Tahoe, deal is I drive it for 2 years and give it to the wife and hopefully then the jeep is a better option..

go ahead... make fun....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've considered those Crosstreks. Seem like good cars. I just can't get over the stigma that it's a Subaru.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah that's my dilemma also, however for 25,000 it's hard to beat for a new car with four-wheel-drive


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

That's why there are a metric shit-ton of them on the roads right now.


----------



## Supe

I have never seen that thing before, never even knew it existed.

CVT transmission, though...


----------



## MA_PE

Don't you have to be a lesbian to buy/own a Subaru?


----------



## MetsFan

MA_PE said:


> Don't you have to be a lesbian to buy/own a Subaru?




Where did that come from anyway? Is that a New England thing? I think I've only heard that here.

I wouldn't mind owning a WRX or STI.


----------



## Road Guy

I am a lesbian trapped in a man's body, even have the butch short haircut


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Don't you have to be a lesbian to buy/own a Subaru?




Yes, we already had that discussion with CSB.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ LOL


----------



## Supe

So I picked up a sponsor! A&amp;A Manufacturing has given me a parts sponsorship, heavy discount on all my orders. I buy most of my racing quick turn fasteners, access doors, brackets, and tabs through them, so it's pretty good considering I don't have to do anything but slap a few stickers on the car and sport a t-shirt to events! They've even given me a heavy discount on a few one-off parts I needed cut.


----------



## MA_PE

free is always good. Stickers are way cool and they'll make the car go faster!


----------



## Supe

So does swag. You can't go fast without swag.

Bonus - they gave me a heavier discount than they promised when I placed an order today. Schwing!


----------



## csb

I just achieved gold status with Enterprise.

I rented a car yesterday and they were out of my car class, so they gave me a 2016 Ford Explorer and absorbed the fuel costs, so I didn't have to pay for gas. Cheese and rice, that car did all kinds of fancy things. It even had cooling seats. It could be mine for just $41,000...or I could rent one again when I need it.


----------



## Supe

Nothing beats a gentle breeze on your crotch for those long road trips.


----------



## FLBuff PE

^That's why she rides one of those recumbent contraptions.


----------



## MA_PE

Back in the 70's / early 80's GM used to put what er referred to as a "ball cooler" AC vent at the base of the steering column aimed right at the crotch.

Here's one on a 78 cutlass. You can see it immediately below the center of the stering wheel.


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Back in the 70's / early 80's GM used to put what er referred to as a "ball cooler" AC vent at the base of the steering column aimed right at the crotch.
> 
> Here's one on a 78 cutlass. You can see it immediately below the center of the stering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ball-cooler.jpg




They worked OK, but the ones that now puff directly on the taint through the perforations in the leather are truly technology at its finest.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Back in the 70's / early 80's GM used to put what er referred to as a "ball cooler" AC vent at the base of the steering column aimed right at the crotch.
> 
> Here's one on a 78 cutlass. You can see it immediately below the center of the stering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ball-cooler.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They worked OK, but the ones that now puff directly on the taint through the perforations in the leather are truly technology at its finest.
Click to expand...

I don't doubt that at all, just saying cooling the crotch has been a design consideration for quite a few years.


----------



## csb

I called my husband and said, "This car is so fancy!" and he replied, "I know; it stores three seat positions," and I exclaimed, "It's got butt air conditioning!" and he replied, "Can I call you back?" and I said, "Is your boss right there?" and he said, "Yes," so I said, "AIR CONDITIONING! FOR MY BUTT!"

His cell phone volume is jacked way up for when he's on construction sites. That doesn't work in his favor sometimes.


----------



## mudpuppy

MA_PE said:


> Back in the 70's / early 80's GM used to put what er referred to as a "ball cooler" AC vent at the base of the steering column aimed right at the crotch.
> 
> Here's one on a 78 cutlass. You can see it immediately below the center of the stering wheel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ball-cooler.jpg




That looks identical to the dash of my grandpa's Oldsmobile 88 diesel, complete with the ball cooler, except I don't recall an 8-track.


----------



## Krakosky

We test drove the crosstrek. I was considering getting it but then I went to look at the BMW X1...


----------



## Krakosky

A lot of the reviews I read about them said the engine is underpowered for the car and acceleration was slow and lagging. I knew that would annoy me driving 110 miles on the highway everyday.


----------



## Road Guy

Thats what i read also, but i still see a shitload of them passing me on the interstate when i am doing 80 in the hoe

Id get a X1 but i have three colleges to help pay for


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> Thats what i read also, but i still see a shitload of them passing me on the interstate when i am doing 80 in the hoe
> 
> Id get a X1 but i have three colleges to help pay for


I see a bunch of Prius (Priii?) passing me when I'm doing 80 too. It takes them a while, but they get there at some point.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Thats what i read also, but i still see a shitload of them passing me on the interstate when i am doing 80 in the hoe
> 
> Id get a X1 but i have three colleges to help pay for


I bet you could get a screaming deal on an off lease or low mileage X1. If you could find a CPO one, you'd get the HAZwhopper warranty on it, too.


----------



## Road Guy

It looks like for close to the cost would get me one with about 35k -40k miles on it and odly even the ones around here are not 4WD?

I am just more of an old jeep person than a BMW person though,,,

My main preference is a tacoma but the Japanese are proud of them...


----------



## mudpuppy

I ended up with a jeep compass rental this weekend. Kinda excited this was an upgrade from the midsized car I reserved. Imagine my shock when I stepped on the gas from a stoplight on an incline in the drizzly Seattle weather and the front wheels started spinning. Seriously, a fwd suv? I was so embarrassed I parked it and rode the train into town.


----------



## Krakosky

My escape was fwd.


----------



## Road Guy

If its FWD i dont think it should be able to be classified as a SUV.

I think it should have to be able to tow a 6000 lb boat or equivalent trailer to be called an SUV, otherwise its just a squared off station wagon


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

FWD sucks


----------



## snickerd3

Dexman PE PMP said:


> FWD sucks


minisnick managed to flip one of those trikes when he was younger. His has two steps on the back though


----------



## MA_PE

snickerd3 said:


> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> FWD sucks
> 
> 
> 
> minisnick managed to flip one of those trikes when he was younger. His has two steps on the back though
Click to expand...

He needs a Big Wheel with a lower center of gravity.


----------



## snickerd3

MA_PE said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> FWD sucks
> 
> 
> 
> minisnick managed to flip one of those trikes when he was younger. His has two steps on the back though
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He needs a Big Wheel with a lower center of gravity.
Click to expand...

he has one of those too


----------



## MA_PE

snickerd3 said:


> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> FWD sucks
> 
> 
> 
> minisnick managed to flip one of those trikes when he was younger. His has two steps on the back though
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He needs a Big Wheel with a lower center of gravity.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> he has one of those too
Click to expand...

did he roll it?


----------



## snickerd3

MA_PE said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MA_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> FWD sucks
> 
> 
> 
> minisnick managed to flip one of those trikes when he was younger. His has two steps on the back though
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He needs a Big Wheel with a lower center of gravity.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> he has one of those too
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> did he roll it?
Click to expand...

nope


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

*not yet


----------



## jeb6294

MA_PE said:


> snickerd3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dexman PE PMP said:
> 
> 
> 
> FWD sucks
> 
> 
> 
> minisnick managed to flip one of those trikes when he was younger. His has two steps on the back though
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He needs a Big Wheel with a lower center of gravity.
Click to expand...

He needs a Spinout 360. That's what I had when I was a kid. Same as a Big Wheel but it had casters on the back. I also had a Green Machine which I see has made a comeback recently.


----------



## Road Guy

anyone think there is any truth to being able to save some $$ buying the year end cars in late Nov / December? Before the 2016 models role in?

I'm a firm believer that the dealership could give you the car for free and still screw you somehow?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

I have heard of some real good deals in December.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The resale value of the "previous year's" model will be greatly reduced because everyone wants the newer model. That being said, the value is offset by the fact that yours would have less miles than every other vehicle from that model year.

Waiting this long also means your selection is greatly reduced. You'll be sorting through the "less desirable" colors and option packages.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

I got a new one three weeks ago.


----------



## snickerd3

Road Guy said:


> anyone think there is any truth to being able to save some $$ buying the year end cars in late Nov / December? Before the 2016 models role in?
> 
> I'm a firm believer that the dealership could give you the car for free and still screw you somehow?


there are cars that bring the next model year out at the begining of the year? I thought most were a spring/summer of the year before.


----------



## mudpuppy

My dad sold cars for many years, and I can tell you the worst time of year for car salesmen is early January; everyone has blown their budgets on Christmas and usually the weather is bad as well, so no one is out buying cars.


----------



## Road Guy

I'm not super picky, just need something to get me around town.

I am leaning toward a Tacoma. The plan would be to keep it at least a decade. But after watching that movie unbreakable I am also looking at the midsize Chevrolet Colorado truck


----------



## snickerd3

i got a super deal on my pilot the day before xmas eve on the current year model. they had the color i wanted with the trim level i wanted...just have to go to a high volume dealer


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> I'm not super picky, just need something to get me around town.
> 
> I am leaning toward a Tacoma. The plan would be to keep it at least a decade. But after watching that movie unbreakable I am also looking at the midsize Chevrolet Colorado truck


Those new Colorado's are nice.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

With the debate over moving to New Zealand, Mrs Dex has indicated that we probably wouldn't be bringing Bee with us. I have been resistant because I love that car and I really don't know what I would do with it while we were gone (what if we decide to stay there for more than a couple of years?).

So the potential move has had me a little bummed over that, until I remembered the Holden brand from Australia. They have been rebranded in the US as the Pontiac GTO, the G8, and more recently as the Chevy SS. So a quick google search for cars down there nets me this beauty (Holden Commodore SS). I'm not bummed about the vehicle situation anymore...


----------



## csb

I can babysit while you're gone!


----------



## Supe

Don't forget the Ute, Dex!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Those are sweet too, but they don't have backseats (necessary to haul the kiddos around).


----------



## Supe

They have an entire BED. You can haul plenty of bodies in it!


----------



## snickerd3

woohoo my car is ready. the new windshield installation is done!!!


----------



## Supe

Well, as of this morning, I am officially the SCCA Southeast Division champion in the ITS class.  Now to figure out whether I want to take a weekend trip to St. Simon's Island in February to get my jacket and trophy.  Hotel is only $79/night, may be worth the 4 1/2 hour drive.


----------



## MA_PE

Congrats.  I say make the ride.  Is the Catalina ready for the trip?


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> Well, as of this morning, I am officially the SCCA Southeast Division champion in the ITS class.  Now to figure out whether I want to take a weekend trip to St. Simon's Island in February to get my jacket and trophy.  Hotel is only $79/night, may be worth the 4 1/2 hour drive.




I liked St. Simons, though it was a little too crowded for my taste.  Jekyll Island is the next barrier island south of it and the entire island is a state park so it's not AS overrun with touristy crap.  Not a bad area to kayak, and there's lots of dolphins around.


----------



## Road Guy

There is some really good inshore fishing at Saint Simons


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Congrats.  I say make the ride.  Is the Catalina ready for the trip?


Not even close.  Not.  Even.  Close.

MP: Can't imagine it would be as crowded in February?


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> Not even close.  Not.  Even.  Close.
> 
> MP: Can't imagine it would be as crowded in February?


By crowded I didn't mean just the number of people around, but the entire island is so heavily developed the houses are built nearly on top of each other, and there's pretty much nowhere to park.  Probably fewer tourists in Feb than when I was there (Memorial Day weekend), as you say.


----------



## Supe

Ah, understood.  I'd imagine we'll probably just park at the hotel and do whatever is in walking distance.  Sea Palms Resort is the banquet hotel.


----------



## Road Guy

So I left the office today to head to a meeting in my alternator light came on, I've been driving about an hour and watching my voltage meter love around 10 ...dumb question, if I leave the car running in the battery runs out of juice will The car eventually cut off? I am in the middle of fucking nowhere in but I was thinking I could just leave the car running during the meeting and then head straight to the auto store about an hour away and grab a new alternator


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Do you know it's the alternator or can it just be a low/bad battery?


----------



## Road Guy

Pretty sure it's the alternator, last month had the battery checked out of worry about upcoming winter and and it checked out fine, it's about a-year-old, but if I can make it to an auto parts store I'll get them to check both..

Voltage is now around 9---

Windshield wipers and windows wont function...

Anyone near fort morgan, Co?


----------



## MA_PE

DEx has a good point, but either way if your battery goes dead, I believe the car will stop and leave you stranded.  Back in the old days you could keep the car going (ie.e motor would keep running) but you'd lose all the electrical functions.  Nowadays I believe if you have no juice the motor stops too.


----------



## NCcarguy

If the alternator is indeed dead, then it will drain the battery while it's running.....your best shot is to shut it off and hope the BATTERY will start when you're done and allow you to drive far enough to be safe......


----------



## Road Guy

Im hoping some of these big oil and gas trucks will be able to jump the battery if it dies... Sure wish this would have happened yesterday when i was sitting around doing nothing!


----------



## NCcarguy

Road Guy said:


> ... Sure wish this would have happened yesterday when i was sitting around doing nothing!


That's not how the world works.....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> Im hoping some of these big oil and gas trucks will be able to jump the battery if it dies... Sure wish this would have happened yesterday when i was sitting around doing nothing!


If it dies, a jump start won't work. Remember, the alternator is dead and therefore the engine is not producing the electricity needed to fire the spark plugs.

My in-laws live up by Sterling (about 30 min away), but my FIL is blind and can't drive and MIL is at work until at least 5.


----------



## MA_PE

NCcarguy said:


> If the alternator is indeed dead, then it will drain the battery while it's running.....your best shot is to shut it off and hope the BATTERY will start when you're done and allow you to drive far enough to be safe......


Not be a Debbie Downer but at 9V it ain't gonna start anything.


----------



## Road Guy

Something weird happened, I had to pass a car on the interstate and when I accelerated real hard the voltage meter went back to normal￼?

The Tahoe started up after the meeting so I'm going to head straight to the auto store and try to get a reading on it


----------



## Road Guy

Spoke to soon....


----------



## Road Guy

All better, she's so shiny....


----------



## MA_PE

So did the alt test bad or did you just replace it because it seemed like the most likely suspect?


----------



## Road Guy

Im normally a parts changer but they tested the battery and it was still strong so i just swapped out the alternator..so far so good.... I may need to consider getting a car that isnt 15 years old...


----------



## MA_PE

If the issue goes away then it's money well-spent.  I hope it stays good.  My daily driver is 16 years old.  For some unknown reason I keep throwing money at it....for one more year....


----------



## jeb6294

Mrs. jeb6294 is officially a soccer mom.  We traded in her Flex and came home with a Toyota Sienna (minivan).  It's a leftover '15 so the price was good but it's a new one.  She really liked her Flex, but it was closing in on 100k miles and was starting to have some issues so we figured better to trade it in while we still could.  She liked it enough that we actually went to go look at a '13 Flex but it had already sold.  Too bad because it had the eco-boost in it...365hp grocery getter would have been fun.


----------



## Lumber Jim

jeb6294 said:


> Mrs. jeb6294 is officially a soccer mom.  We traded in her Flex and came home with a Toyota Sienna (minivan).  It's a leftover '15 so the price was good but it's a new one.  She really liked her Flex, but it was closing in on 100k miles and was starting to have some issues so we figured better to trade it in while we still could.  She liked it enough that we actually went to go look at a '13 Flex but it had already sold.  Too bad because it had the eco-boost in it...365hp grocery getter would have been fun.


welcome to the club. It's not as bad as everyone thinks...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Whatever you have to tell yourself to sleep at night...


----------



## snickerd3

I don't like driving minivans there is just something about the design/seat/view that makes me very uncomfortable.


----------



## Supe

I have a hard time parking them.  I'm used to sitting very low and way back, so the change in perspective always makes me curb a wheel somehow.  SUV's or any other car I have no issue with.


----------



## Lumber Jim

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Whatever you have to tell yourself to sleep at night...


The wife is driving the van tomorrow....   ZZZZZZZZ


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Whatever you have to tell yourself to sleep at night...


+1000


----------



## envirotex

Really digging this...Did somebody already talk about this, or buy one?  I'm thinking about going to drive one...I even like the orange.


----------



## Supe

So I've had it with my Saturn even more.

Replaced alternator and battery, started getting hard to crank again.  Over the weekend, would not crank fast enough to start, but battery cable was super hot.  WTF?  Go to disconnect it from the battery, and...

There were maybe about 2 strands of copper actually connected to the rest of it.  So now I'm out $206 for a f*cking engine wiring harness.  This was the battery side of a 175 amp inline-fused wire that went to the starter and alternator (the side after the fuse looked perfect, oddly enough).  I'm praying that the shitty connection didn't take out the new alternator on top of it, but I'm stunned it didn't burn the f'ing car down.  It was hard to find because such a limited number of these were sold, but apparently, the problem is recurring in the european-sold cars as well.


----------



## Road Guy

Man, I can't believe a car guy such as yourself would drive a saturn!


----------



## Road Guy

envirotex said:


> Really digging this...Did somebody already talk about this, or buy one?  I'm thinking about going to drive one...I even like the orange.


I really like them also, just make sure you get some big tires if you get one, the ones with the stock tires just don't look right


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Man, I can't believe a car guy such as yourself would drive a saturn!


It was the first new car I ever bought after graduating.  I figured hey, it's been out for years in Europe as a Vauxhall, and its best competitor at the time was a VW Rabbit.  I also needed killer MPG, since I would be driving some considerable miles in my road whore days.  

It's actually a killer handling, and pretty good looking hatch.  Foggy headlights aside, looks-wise, it aged better than most other 8 year old cars, 12 if you count its European counterpart.  But it has just had the STUPIDEST shit go wrong with it, and it went from tight-as-a-drum when new to every-piece-of-shit-interior-piece rattles, with the added benefit of not having SEAM SEALED ROOF RAILS, so the headliner is stained to boot.  

My affinity for not having a car payment is what has kept it in my driveway, but when the repair costs start to cost me the equivalent to one...


----------



## jeb6294

The Hemi is no more.  It was a nice enough truck, but I was shocked at how low the tow rating was, 6,400lb.  The Hemi was willing but the gearing didn't allow it.  The new Mrs. Jeb6294 has talked about wanting to get a camper.  A giant take the whole family camping type camper that could be up around 10-12,000lb.  Obviously the Dodge wasn't going to cut it.

With 102,000 miles on it, the Dodge felt like it was getting to the point that it was going to start needing some repairs too.  The front passenger wheel bearing had to be replaced not to long ago, but it was starting to sound like the driver's side was going south too.  The tires were definitely due to be changed too.  Right there would've been at least $1,500.  The paint right above the rear wheel was starting to bubble up so I hit it with some rust inhibitor but apparently it is common.  From what I've heard, it's pretty typical of a lot of Dodges...the engine still runs perfect, but everything else starts to fall apart.

This time I decided to go the other direction and just went ahead and got something that'll tow anything.  Including my house.  2011 F350 with the Powerstroke.  It was optioned out with most of the stuff I wanted and it had a hair under 80,000 miles on it which is just getting started for a diesel.  I was actually rather surprised with their trade-in offer for my truck and I got them down a couple thousand on the Ford...the whole deal ended up taking about 15 minutes.  Paperwork took about an hour after that.

The Hemi was fun, but how can you not love 400hp and 800ft-lb of torque?.  Once I hit 100,000 miles and the warranty is up I might have to put a new exhaust and a tuner on it and have some real fun.


----------



## csb

Rental car this weekend has seat warmers. I'm all fancy like RG!


----------



## Road Guy

LOL, old junker cars like mine can also have seat warmers


----------



## csb

I've been putting these in my shoes lately. Do they count?


----------



## Road Guy

As long as you put them in there real tight


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Anybody have battery recommendations?  Does brand really matter as long as you buy one with a 2 or 3 year warranty and don't have a huge stereo system?


----------



## MA_PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> Anybody have battery recommendations?  Does brand really matter as long as you buy one with a 2 or 3 year warranty and don't have a huge stereo system?


you do kind of "get what you pay for".  For a daily driver I'd stay away from the lowest price ones at Walmart.  I just bought one from a local Interstate battery store for ~100.  The qualifier is the cold-cranking-amps rating.  I wouldn't get anything less than ~600 cca especially in the colder climates.  Batteries (like tires) are pretty much made by the same big companies and then they get re-branded.  Hope that helps.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I haven't gone battery shopping in a while but agree with MA on the CCA rating.  I always go for the highest CCA rating that will fit in the vehicle.

One little note on ratings though.  For a while, some of the manufacturers were putting CA ratings rather than CCA.  The difference is that the testing for the CA rating was done at a much higher temperature which would give a much higher amperage.  I haven't noticed it for a while so the practice may have been canned.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

I wasn't planning on cheaping out.  I was planning on spending $100 plus for a decent battery.  I was talking more about sprinting for an Optima Red or Yellow top battery.  Is it worth the extra $50+ for those unless I'm driving something in addition to the car (i.e., a big stereo)?  I kinda got screwed last time I replaced the battery.  I took my car in for a 60,000 mile tune up.  I knew the battery was shot, suspected my brake pads were completely worn and wanted the belts and other consumables checked.   The shop I took it to only charged me about $50 for diagnostics, $30 for new belts, and $75 for a new battery and told me my brake pads were fine.  But since I had them replace the battery, I really didn't get a choice in what brand I got.  I ended up with an Exide cheapy that is now dead again.  Other than that, the shop earned my future business by not replacing everything possible and charging me $1000+.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I wouldn't spend too much north of $100 for a car battery.  The manufacturer of that Exide battery may not have been the problem.  The way batteries are manufactured, they aren't finished forming before they are put on the shelf.  Once the electrolyte is dumped in them, they go to about 80% charge.  They need some more charging over the course of the first few weeks/months of ownership.  If they sit on the shelf too long before putting them in service, the plates will begin to sulfate which will dramatically shorten the life of the battery.  The best defense is to buy a reputable brand from somewhere that sells a crap-load of batteries.  It's the best chance of getting one that hasn't spent too long sitting on the shelf.


----------



## jeb6294

I haven't worried about Optima batteries for a while now after I got rid of the Jeep, but whenever they come up on any of the "car" boards I'm on the general opinion is to avoid them because quality has gone down the tubes.

When the battery in the Ram started to go south, I did quite a bit of looking for the best battery to get.  I forget where I saw it, but I remember reading that the Sear Diehard batteries were great...if you could find one.  With Sears downsizing, they got rid of a lot of their automotive departments.  I did a search and found a Sears on my way up to Dayton that still had an auto shop so I was able to pick one up and swap it out in the parking lot.


----------



## MA_PE

Of course Sears doesn't make their own batteries.  A quick google search said they're either made by Exide or Johnson Controls. Also found this summary that might be useful.

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/news/2013/04/beware-the-best-and-worst-replacement-car-batteries-can-be-from-the-same-brand/index.htm


----------



## jeb6294

You big tease.  Give us a link to Consumer Reports telling us that batteries from the same brand can be good or bad, but you can't see their recommendations without being a member.

I saw something that said the Diehards were rebadged Odyssey batteries.  Either way, I'm hoping mine will last a bit longer because the diesel takes 2.


----------



## Road Guy

I usually buy the 3 year warranty one from Advance Auto Parts, they have been  reliable for me over the years, I believe they are around $150?


----------



## matt267 PE

(I plan on testing my car battery tomorrow morning. It's going to be single digits out in the morning.)


----------



## MA_PE

jeb6294 said:


> You big tease.  Give us a link to Consumer Reports telling us that batteries from the same brand can be good or bad, but you can't see their recommendations without being a member.
> 
> I saw something that said the Diehards were rebadged Odyssey batteries.  Either way, I'm hoping mine will last a bit longer because the diesel takes 2.


sorry about that.  I did not see that caveat and I'm not a member


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Yeah, I heard the same thing about Die Hards (i.e., they are made by multiple different manufacturers with varying levels of quality).  The Optima batteries seem to have good reviews, but I have also noticed that a lot of newer reviews tend to include a lot of DOA batteries.  I'm not sure what kind of Exide battery I have now, but I'm sure it was on the cheaper end of their scale.  I guess I'll just go with the 3-year warranty battery at Auto Zone or NAPA if there really isn't a stand-out leader in batteries.  There is a stand-alone Interstate battery place near my house.  Anybody have experience with them?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Still rocking the factory battery, although I'm sure it will need to be replaced soon.

We just grabbed the cheapest thing we could find when we replaced the one in Mrs Dex's Jeep


----------



## Road Guy

twice on the 3 year battery we have gotten it tested around 2.5 years and end up with a brand new free battery, (but they wont warranty the free battery but its still all good)


----------



## Road Guy

also need your automotive prayers (to whomever you pray to) as of today my 16.5 year old is officially on my insurance 

wasn't as bad as I thought, only $258 / 6 months (apparently having a 4.0 GPA helps in that department)  He doesn't have his own vehicle yet, was going to give him a month of running errands to build some confidence..

Not sure why but I just don't feel he is "ready'  he is a much better kid than I was at his age, just typical parent paranoia?


----------



## MA_PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> Yeah, I heard the same thing about Die Hards (i.e., they are made by multiple different manufacturers with varying levels of quality).  The Optima batteries seem to have good reviews, but I have also noticed that a lot of newer reviews tend to include a lot of DOA batteries.  I'm not sure what kind of Exide battery I have now, but I'm sure it was on the cheaper end of their scale.  I guess I'll just go with the 3-year warranty battery at Auto Zone or NAPA if there really isn't a stand-out leader in batteries.  There is a stand-alone Interstate battery place near my house.  Anybody have experience with them?


As said previously, I just bought a new battery at the local Interstate store.  I followed the guys recommnedations and got one with 600+ cca for ~$125.  FWIW, I had some corrosion on the positive terminal.  For $8 I bought a kit that came with two small spray cans (cleaner and protectant) and a battery terminal brush.  I used the cleaner and used some sandpaper on my cable connector and it worked great.  The protector puts a bright red film over the completed connection as a corrosion inhibitor.  I seemed to work well.  So far so good.


----------



## MetsFan

I bought a battery at Advance Auto Parts with a coupon last month for $130.  BMW wanted $240 for the BMW branded one.  I haven't put it in yet though but other people have had good luck with them.  I just have to figure out how to register the battery.  I have the PC to OBD cable, but it's a mess of software I have to figure out.

Regarding consumer reports, do a google search for: consumer reports library login.  If you have a library card, you should be able to get in too.


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> I haven't worried about Optima batteries for a while now after I got rid of the Jeep, but whenever they come up on any of the "car" boards I'm on the general opinion is to avoid them because quality has gone down the tubes.
> 
> When the battery in the Ram started to go south, I did quite a bit of looking for the best battery to get.  I forget where I saw it, but I remember reading that the Sear Diehard batteries were great...if you could find one.  With Sears downsizing, they got rid of a lot of their automotive departments.  I did a search and found a Sears on my way up to Dayton that still had an auto shop so I was able to pick one up and swap it out in the parking lot.


If you can't find a Sears with Die Hard batteries, try K-mart (if you still have any of those around either).


----------



## MA_PE

MetsFan said:


> I bought a battery at Advance Auto Parts with a coupon last month for $130.  BMW wanted $240 for the BMW branded one.  I haven't put it in yet though but other people have had good luck with them.  I just have to figure out how to register the battery.  I have the PC to OBD cable, but it's a mess of software I have to figure out.
> 
> Regarding consumer reports, do a google search for: consumer reports library login.  If you have a library card, you should be able to get in too.




Register the battery....I never heard of such a thing.  A quick search found that ther are tons of opinions on this BMW requirement.  The vast majority say BMW wants $150 on top of hte battery cost to register.  Most of the threads said the registration is BS.

You learn somehting new everyday.


----------



## P-E

Not to change subjects, but I have a Subaru with a head gasket slow oil leak.  Any idea what the cost might be (non dealer) to change the gasket?  I fear this one is gonna hurt.


----------



## MetsFan

MA_PE said:


> 2 hours ago, MetsFan said:
> 
> I bought a battery at Advance Auto Parts with a coupon last month for $130.  BMW wanted $240 for the BMW branded one.  I haven't put it in yet though but other people have had good luck with them.  I just have to figure out how to register the battery.  I have the PC to OBD cable, but it's a mess of software I have to figure out.
> 
> Regarding consumer reports, do a google search for: consumer reports library login.  If you have a library card, you should be able to get in too.
> 
> 
> 
> Register the battery....I never heard of such a thing.  A quick search found that ther are tons of opinions on this BMW requirement.  The vast majority say BMW wants $150 on top of hte battery cost to register.  Most of the threads said the registration is BS.
> 
> You learn somehting new everyday.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's a crap shoot. It has to do with adjusting the charging based on how old the battery is. The new battery is pretty much the same as the old one so they say it's just a formality, but I figure it's better to be on the safe side.


----------



## MetsFan

power-engineer said:


> Not to change subjects, but I have a Subaru with a head gasket slow oil leak.  Any idea what the cost might be (non dealer) to change the gasket?  I fear this one is gonna hurt.


Wow, it looks like upwards of $1200... The parts are only $100.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

How do you know that the gasket is the only problem?? Warped head, Cracked head, Cracked block, burnt valves, Busted Pistons. Once you bust it open it could get real expensive??


----------



## Supe

wilheldp_PE said:


> I wasn't planning on cheaping out.  I was planning on spending $100 plus for a decent battery.  I was talking more about sprinting for an Optima Red or Yellow top battery.  Is it worth the extra $50+ for those unless I'm driving something in addition to the car (i.e., a big stereo)?  I kinda got screwed last time I replaced the battery.  I took my car in for a 60,000 mile tune up.  I knew the battery was shot, suspected my brake pads were completely worn and wanted the belts and other consumables checked.   The shop I took it to only charged me about $50 for diagnostics, $30 for new belts, and $75 for a new battery and told me my brake pads were fine.  But since I had them replace the battery, I really didn't get a choice in what brand I got.  I ended up with an Exide cheapy that is now dead again.  Other than that, the shop earned my future business by not replacing everything possible and charging me $1000+.


Stay the hell away from Optima!  No BS, even BEFORE the quality allegedly "went down the tubes", I replaced SIX, yes SIX Optima Red Tops under a SINGLE warranty in the race car.  One complete discharge and they were done, there was no bringing them back to life despite any of the tricks or chargers.

Without a doubt, the absolute best wet cell batteries I have ever used are the Duralast Gold from Autozone.  I don't know what it is about them, but you can't kill them.  I had my big 950 CCA mother discharged completely a good 4 or 5 times, and it still came back to life every time.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Out of curiosity, why are race cars a special case for batteries?  When I was looking at reviews, the two special cases they listed were car stereos and race cars.  Do race cars not have an alternator?


----------



## Supe

A lot of race cars will run with no alternator, and will draw much higher starting currents due to the high compression, large displacement motors taking a lot more oomph to turn over.  The trick I used to do to help with the latter was to spin the motor over with the ignition off, which keeps cylinder pressures down during cranking (most guys will lock their timing out with a higher level of advance, often 20+ degrees higher than stock, which makes it not want to fire until you get some speed in the rotating assembly).  You then light it off by flipping the switch for the ignition box when the motor is already spinning.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe:  It's my understanding that auto batteries don't like to discharge completely, aren't you better off using a marine-type deep cycle battery if you're going to discharge it semi-regularly?


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Supe:  It's my understanding that auto batteries don't like to discharge completely, aren't you better off using a marine-type deep cycle battery if you're going to discharge it semi-regularly?


Yes.  In my case of the 6 shitty red tops, I was running an alternator.  The battery was discharging/dying while sitting over a one and a half to two week span with no drain on the battery (disconnect switch).  

For the guys that run no alternator, they typically will run either a pair of 12v batteries or a single 16v battery and charge between rounds.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

I have 2 blue top Optima battery's in my boat and they have been fine for 5 years.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> Yes.  In my case of the 6 shitty red tops, I was running an alternator.  The battery was discharging/dying while sitting over a one and a half to two week span with no drain on the battery (disconnect switch).
> 
> For the guys that run no alternator, they typically will run either a pair of 12v batteries or a single 16v battery and charge between rounds.


what would cause a battery to discharge with no draw?  Especially in 2 weeks?  Hmmmm.


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> what would cause a battery to discharge with no draw?  Especially in 2 weeks?  Hmmmm.


A circuit path internal to the cell.  My bet would be a manufacturing defect if the battery is fairly new.


----------



## Supe

It baffled me.  The only thing I can figure is that it was receiving a slight overcharge, and that was causing the battery to deteriorate.  My understanding is that AGM batteries are very susceptible to premature "drying" of the mats during an overcharge situation, which can be as little as a tenth of a volt.  So if we were charging at 14.8-14.9v, that can start to wipe them out ahead of time.


----------



## Supe

Flyer_PE said:


> A circuit path internal to the cell.  My bet would be a manufacturing defect if the battery is fairly new.


Wouldn't surprise me.  I believe this was 6 batteries of the same make/model in less than three years.  Duralast gold with no other changes in that car will still take a charge after 5 1/2 years...


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> It baffled me.  The only thing I can figure is that it was receiving a slight overcharge, and that was causing the battery to deteriorate.  My understanding is that AGM batteries are very susceptible to premature "drying" of the mats during an overcharge situation, which can be as little as a tenth of a volt.  So if we were charging at 14.8-14.9v, that can start to wipe them out ahead of time.


AGM cells are in fact sensitive to charging voltage.  For a 12V battery, there are 6 cells internal to the case.  If one of them starts to short internally and drops voltage, the charging voltage for the other 5 will increase (charging voltage for the battery remains constant).  The higher charging voltages will accelerate the aging process for the affected cells.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Explains how my cell phone battery is fine for a while, but when it starts to go, the deterioration accelerates quickly.


----------



## DVINNY

I agree with RG above, two weeks ago, I had to get a new battery for the Trailblazer.  The one that was in it was bought in 2007.  I went to Advance Auto and bought the same one.  Figured if the last one lasted that long, it was good to go.

Funny part is, the guy at Advance Auto kept telling me that they didn't have the battery I needed to "fit" my vehicle and that they could order it.  I said, "I want this same battery, and you have it on the shelf over there" he said, I understand that we have that one, but the computer shows that it doesn't fit your vehicle.  I said "fine, I'll buy it anyway"  he said, "but I'm not sure if it will work".   I then paused for a bit, once he looked up at me, I said "buddy, I just took this one same old one out of that vehicle and it has worked fine in it since 2007.  I think I'll be OK".

I don't think he ever did 'get it'.  I believe once I left he was probably shaking his head saying "I warned him the computer said it wouldn't work".


----------



## matt267 PE

DVINNY said:


> I agree with RG above, two weeks ago, I had to get a new battery for the Trailblazer.  The one that was in it was bought in 2007.  I went to Advance Auto and bought the same one.  Figured if the last one lasted that long, it was good to go.
> 
> Funny part is, the guy at Advance Auto kept telling me that they didn't have the battery I needed to "fit" my vehicle and that they could order it.  I said, "I want this same battery, and you have it on the shelf over there" he said, I understand that we have that one, but the computer shows that it doesn't fit your vehicle.  I said "fine, I'll buy it anyway"  he said, "but I'm not sure if it will work".   I then paused for a bit, once he looked up at me, I said "buddy, I just took this one same old one out of that vehicle and it has worked fine in it since 2007.  I think I'll be OK".
> 
> I don't think he ever did 'get it'.  I believe once I left he was probably shaking his head saying "I warned him the computer said it wouldn't work".


Must have been a millennial.


----------



## MA_PE

DV:  I ran into kind of the same thing when i recently bought a battery at Interstate.  The guy looked it up and brought me the recommended battery.  I had the dead one with me and they weren't the same size.  I bought the same size as the one I had just removed.  The Interstate guy didn't question it at all, just that the case foir the one in his reference table was not the same case as the one I removed from the car.


----------



## DVINNY

matt267 PE said:


> Must have been a millennial.


Yup,  and should get at least $15/hr and his school loans paid off because he deserves it.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP




----------



## jeb6294

When I had to get a new battery for the Dodge I went to Walmart first.  Went in and looked it up on the computer and grabbed the battery (it said) I needed.  The old battery wouldn't hold a charge so I had taken it out of the truck and brought it in with me so I could get my core charge back without making a return trip.  First thing that pissed me off, they said they couldn't give me my core return because the automotive department was closed.  I could see it right there on the cash register but she wouldn't do it.  Get the battery back out to the truck and the terminals were backwards.  I was able to jump the truck with the new battery and then went inside to return the battery.  They wouldn't let me return it either because the automotive department was closed even though I had just bought it 5 minutes before.  I'm usually a pretty easy going guy, but they were about ready to call the police by the time I left.


----------



## MA_PE

jeb6294 said:


> When I had to get a new battery for the Dodge I went to Walmart first.  Went in and looked it up on the computer and grabbed the battery (it said) I needed.  The old battery wouldn't hold a charge so I had taken it out of the truck and brought it in with me so I could get my core charge back without making a return trip.  First thing that pissed me off, they said they couldn't give me my core return because the automotive department was closed.  I could see it right there on the cash register but she wouldn't do it.  Get the battery back out to the truck and the terminals were backwards.  I was able to jump the truck with the new battery and then went inside to return the battery.  They wouldn't let me return it either because the automotive department was closed even though I had just bought it 5 minutes before.  I'm usually a pretty easy going guy, but they were about ready to call the police by the time I left.


Wow.  I think I would've screamed at them until they got Sam Walton himself on the phone.  That's ridiculous


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> I went to Walmart


I think I found your problem.


----------



## jeb6294

mudpuppy said:


> I think I found your problem.


I'd had decent luck there when I needed a new battery once before so I figured it wouldn't be a big deal.

Their excuse was that they didn't have anybody who could take it back to the automotive section since they didn't have anybody back there.  First of all, I already had it in a cart.  Second, why doesn't it just go behind the customer service desk with the other mountain of crap that people have returned for them to get in the morning?


----------



## MA_PE

so did you leave and have to make another trip for the return?  That is just such BS.  However, like so many of these giant stores, they don't give any of the help any authority to make decisions and when the store manager isn't around it's a crisis when a situation like this arises.  It's a sad statement on American workers.

I was out of town and bought some beer at a Walmart (who knew that they sold beer? Department stores can't sell it in MA).  Apparently the policy is that manager assistance is required for all alcohol sales.  I waited about 10 minutes before they got a manager to the register to check my ID for a six pack.  What a PITA.


----------



## MetsFan

MA_PE said:


> so did you leave and have to make another trip for the return?  That is just such BS.  However, like so many of these giant stores, they don't give any of the help any authority to make decisions and when the store manager isn't around it's a crisis when a situation like this arises.  It's a sad statement on American workers.
> 
> I was out of town and bought some beer at a Walmart (who knew that they sold beer? *Department stores can't sell it in MA*).  Apparently the policy is that manager assistance is required for all alcohol sales.  I waited about 10 minutes before they got a manager to the register to check my ID for a six pack.  What a PITA.


They do now.  My Target sells beer, wine, and hard liquor.  I even saw some some clearance wine yesterday.


----------



## Road Guy

some store managers can dictate the returns as well, even though Home Depot built itself on the "you can return anything" model, we had a couple different store managers who would tell the returns desk , not to be rude, but to be just a tad difficult on returns that are questionable, probably helped the store manager get another vacation house.

I know we buy a lot of winter weather gear from sports authority and some stores are defin easier to return stuff to than others


----------



## MA_PE

MetsFan said:


> They do now.  My Target sells beer, wine, and hard liquor.  I even saw some some clearance wine yesterday.


really.  I know Wegman's does but the Shaw's and Stop and Shop that I go to don't.


----------



## Road Guy

Its strange how all across the nation the Liquor store has everyone convinced that if grocery stores sell stronger booze they will somehow go out of business.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Thanks for the battery suggestions, guys.  I ended up getting a Duralast Gold at AutoZone today.  I'll let you know how it works for me in 3 years.*

* ...provided that it lasts that long.**

** I will probably forget to update if it doesn't last that long, or more likely, I will sell the car and buy another one before the 3 years is up.


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> some store managers can dictate the returns as well,


So you're saying MA could have potentially returned the 6'er after he was finished with them? :thumbs:


----------



## Road Guy

I/m close to doing something stupid...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

That's a Wrangler. Nice!


----------



## blybrook PE

Not stupid at all. One of the best theft deterrents there is!


----------



## Road Guy

wife is delaying letting me know where the money market check book is!


----------



## Road Guy

so having a 6th gear is new to me, almost sent me back over a cliff this weekend (like one at 10K feet) when I thought I was in reverse, whats up with this? its only a V6 engine?  never had more than a 5 speed before...

will take some getting used to!


----------



## DVINNY

I test drove 3 different 4-door Wranglers over the last week.  One had the 6 speed.  Too much shifting IMO.

I don't think I'm going to do it, but still haven't ruled it out.


----------



## Road Guy

I'm not sure what MPGH the Tahoe got but I can already tell the smaller V6 engine is better on gas (sad when you get excited about 20 mpg)

I am letting my 16 year old drive the Tahoe (mainly just to school) and then we drive it for family weekend trips if we need it. took it (jeep) to Nederland, CO this weekend to do some 4WD'ing. was pretty fun, even with the manual transmission.

Only problem is that there are too many things to buy for these types of vehicles.. *J*ust *E*mpty *E*very *P*ocket


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I skip gears all the time. When accelerating on an on-ramp, I might use 4 out of the 6 (1, 3, 4, 6).  It's not uncommon for me to go from 1 to 4 since I can get up to 45mph in 1st.

My car actually has a skip-shift "feature" where under certain conditions (speed between 15-20mph, less than 70% acceleration, Trans temp over 100*), the gear box will actually lock itself so that you can only shift from 1 to 4. I had that turned off when I had it tuned because it's annoying as shit.


----------



## MA_PE

RG:  So I gather it's official.  You bit the bullet and bought a new Jeep.  Congrats and good luck with it


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> so having a 6th gear is new to me, almost sent me back over a cliff this weekend (like one at 10K feet) when I thought I was in reverse, whats up with this? its only a V6 engine?  never had more than a 5 speed before...
> 
> will take some getting used to!


I think that's the new standard...when you can even find something that still has a stick.  I remember when the standard used to be 4-speed and 5-speeds were the oddity.  If that's in a Jeep, is "1st" gear even supposed to be used in normal driving or is it an offroad granny gear?  When I was looking at trucks, some of the F350's would have 6-speeds in them, but on the shifter "1st" was actually labeled "L" and 6 was "OD" so for towing you'd use L-to-5 and for daily driving it'd be 2-to-OD.


----------



## Road Guy

yep, cant believe I actually pondered buying a F'n Subaru!

I am so used to reverse being where the 6th gear is, I just have to retrain myself to shift WAY over to the right!

The boy is driving the Tahoe to school and is doing well so far, were keeping him on a short leash, but its nice so far, been making him run a lot of errands..

CO has some cool military veteran license plates, was going to get some for the new jeep until I noticed I had to pay an extra $50 bucks for them?  Most places give veterans, you know, a discount and all..


----------



## Road Guy

Jeb- so far 2nd gear doesn't do so well from a dead stop like my old jeep used to (94)  but it does work (but slow)  admit I haven't read the owners manual yet though..

sort of glad to have a stick just to be able to teach my kids how to drive one


----------



## Road Guy

I will be stuck with the "Stock" look for a while, but so far happy


----------



## jeb6294

I'm sure part of it is the fact that the new V-6's aren't nearly as torquey as the old I-6's.  Probably just threw a 6-speed in them to get a better OD gear in there to help the fuel mileage look a little better.


----------



## MA_PE

Good lookin jeep.

I guess vanity plates are vanity plates and you pay extra for them.

I can honestly say I wouldn't want a manual for my DD.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

RG in 6 months:


----------



## Road Guy

Im trying to resist reading the quadratec catalog!

Is there a way to get $10k out of my 401k without getting 1099'd? Lol


----------



## FLBuff PE

To drag up an old argument, what shape are the headlights?


----------



## snickerd3

Dexman PE PMP said:


> RG in 6 months:


why did you change the picture?  the other one was cooler


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

snickerd3 said:


> why did you change the picture?  the other one was cooler


It wasn't silver.

But for posterity:


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I will be stuck with the "Stock" look for a while, but so far happy
> 
> View attachment 7739


:rotflmao:

Did it come with a little stick figure family to put on the back window?  You'd have to check but I thought I'd heard that you can actually get 33's on them without a lift.  That and trimming the little lip off the flares to give it that flat fender look does wonders.  At least you didn't buy into their hype and get a Rubicon...you can build one better for less $$$.


----------



## Road Guy

Damn...

No need for a dana 44 unless your doing tons of rock crawling.

Even at stock ive got almost 12" of ground clearance, which will get me by for a while..

I don't like to buy ones already lifted as there are lots of people out there that don't do it right, easier for me to start with a clean slate and build from there.

But as much driving as i do I'm not going to add a lift for a year or so, i dont have a small penis so I'm

Not too worried about it...


----------



## csb

:GotPics:


----------



## Road Guy

check your pm's


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> :GotPics:


Haha!  You got Brett Favre'd!


----------



## Ble_PE

^Something tells me she won't be too upset about it...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Did someone say Brett Farve?


----------



## knight1fox3

This popped up on my ebay spam email:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/172069510137


----------



## Supe

Do it.


----------



## jeb6294

Phase 1 of the Hot Rod Powerstroke project is on the way. Found a deal on a tuner and a 5-inch (good lord?!?!) exhaust for the diesel. Surprisingly, most diesel exhausts don't come with mufflers, but just to try and keep the neighbors happy, I went ahead and had them add one. It's a flow-through design so it should still be plenty loud when it needs to be.  The pipe and tuner should be good for another 150hp or so and torque should be well into the 4-figure range.  Next on the agenda is saving up for a new/better turbo...the ones they put in the '11-'14's were a bad experiment by Ford.  Assuming mine doesn't crap out first, a new turbo will cut off any problems down the road and the fact that it'll get me another 100hp is a nice bonus.


----------



## Supe

I'm really hoping the used car bubble pops and all of the restomods and classics plummet in price again like they did a few years ago.


----------



## Road Guy

any of you guys use crutchfield?

I had a local car audio place put a new radio with all the new features in the Tahoe last year and was really happy with it.  I went back to the same place to get something for the jeep,(stock radio- forgot how much I liked Bluetooth and other newer features)  they either have really low end stuff or high end (like $900 bucks)  so I was looking for something middle of the road and came across crutchfield, they seem to have what I need for what I want to pay, I think all this stuff is pretty much all plug and play these days?

For example I have a sat radio receiver that plugs into the back of the radio on my Tahoe (that works through the radio) that I put in myself after the radio went in, the car audio places want to charge $75 bucks to simply "plug" that receiver into whatever radio that I buy..

Just didn't know if what they send you actually has a history of working well with what you need to do the install?  Some features I would like to keep are being able to change the radio stations and volume from the steering wheel and such..


----------



## MetsFan

I've only installed one radio from Crutchfield.  That was for my '97 Civic.  The install was pretty straight forward and they sent me all the parts I needed to complete the install, minus the wire nuts.  

I feel like newer cars would be a lot more difficult though since most of the time, the electronics are tied to the radio somehow.  I think for my bimmer, I would need to leave the head unit in the car even after installing the new radio.  They are pretty good with tech support though so I'm sure you could call them and find out what it would take.


----------



## mudpuppy

I've used Crutchfield several times over the past 20 years and have been pretty happy with them.  They are pretty good about figuring out what units work in which vehicle.  That being said, I haven't ventured into stock steering wheel controls or navigation systems.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've had good luck with Crutchfield, but it's been a long time (15+ years) since I've used them. Like Mets said, install really isn't too bad if you get all of the parts for it (harnesses, brackets, etc).  The only challenge of the DIY with newer radios is how much of a pain in the ass some of these newer consoles are to get apart for the install.  Most of the newer cars the stereo is integrated into the dash and almost requires some level of custom work.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah I need to try and measure it, I think the "double din" fits it pretty dead on (from my lurking at a local shop)

They have a "cheap" install kit and a "everything you need' install kit, I would guess I would go with the later


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

jeb6294 said:


> Phase 1 of the Hot Rod Powerstroke project is on the way. Found a deal on a tuner and a 5-inch (good lord?!?!) exhaust for the diesel. Surprisingly, most diesel exhausts don't come with mufflers, but just to try and keep the neighbors happy, I went ahead and had them add one. It's a flow-through design so it should still be plenty loud when it needs to be.  The pipe and tuner should be good for another 150hp or so and torque should be well into the 4-figure range.  Next on the agenda is saving up for a new/better turbo...the ones they put in the '11-'14's were a bad experiment by Ford.  Assuming mine doesn't crap out first, a new turbo will cut off any problems down the road and the fact that it'll get me another 100hp is a nice bonus.


I put a minimax tuner on my 6.4 power stroke a few years back. What kind did you get?? I dropped $1,200 on tuner and 4" exhaust.


----------



## kevo_55

Damn, I'm in the club too. I used Crutchfield as well. Granted it was 20 years ago and on my 1st car.

I liked them quite a bit back then. I'm too old for that stuff now though.


----------



## MA_PE

I've used Crutchfield within the past 5 years, but always on older (late 90's) cars.  Theya re really excellent for the DIYer and they have a pretty extensive database on what materials are needed to mount to specific vehicles.  They include step-by-step instructions on how to take the stock inerior finishes off and access the radios, they include adapters/cables needed to connect aftermaket radios in.

I don't know how they deal with "remote" controls like steering wheel controls etc.  They are really good about tech help when you call them.  I had a tech guy on my cell phone with one install and he hung with me until I got things in correctly.

On one install, I bought some front dash replacement speakers that they siad would fit but when I went to put them in, the new ones were deeper than the stock speakers and wouldn't work.  They exchanged them for different ones with no problems.  For the same job, I very likely would've destroyed the plastic dash pieces if I didn't have the Crutchfield vehicle specific instructions.  There were two screws (shown on the Crutchfield instructions) holding the panel on that I never would've found until the panel was in pieces.  Of course the internet is a good source for that information these days too.

Based on my experience, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.


----------



## Road Guy

cool thanks for all the info, defin makes me feel better ordering from them... I may call and verify the part about making sure the steering wheel controls and such will still work


----------



## Flyer_PE

I've had good luck with Crutchfield also.  I've seen aftermarket radios that stated they were compatible with steering wheel controls but I haven't done an install on a car with one yet.


----------



## ptatohed

I heard on the radio yesterday that the DeLorean Motor Company (DMC) will be remaking the DeLorean DMC-12 for 2017. 

[SIZE= 11px]_A new law allows the production of replica vehicles that are made to resemble cars that were manufactured at least 25 years ago, and the DeLorean qualifies. Under the new legislation the company will be able to sell as many as 325 replicas each year, however, DeLorean will only make that number over a span of five years.  And even though these will be replicas of the original DeLorean, built with millions of factory parts (and some that have been recreated from the original blueprints), the 2017 DeLorean will have a more powerful engine. A V6 engine will be put in the new replicas giving the car between 350 and 370 horsepower, which is much more than the original 130 horsepower engine, making the car much faster than it was in the 1980s.  Other changes include larger wheels and tires, modern breaks and modern amenities like heated seats, GPS navigation and bluetooth phone connectivity. But the aesthetic of the exterior will be “virtually unchanged” according to DeLorean vice president.[/SIZE]_

http://www.slashfilm.com/cool-stuff-a-new-2017-delorean-will-be-manufactured/


----------



## MetsFan

^^ That's pretty cool.  I remember a kid in my HS had one back in the late 90's.


----------



## MA_PE

I always liked the look of the Bricklin better.

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2013/09/bricklin-sv-1-and-delorean-dmc-12-so-alike-yet-so-different/


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

There are a couple in my Movie Car club.

This was the St. Patty's day parade in 2014:


----------



## Supe

I've used Crutchfield in the last few years.  They're pretty sharp, and their install notes with customer service are pretty good.  They have CANBUS adapters to deal with the new stuff.  While the infotainment systems are more complicated, they tend to follow a similar architecture.


----------



## knight1fox3

mudpuppy said:


> I've used Crutchfield several times over the past 20 years and have been pretty happy with them.  They are pretty good about figuring out what units work in which vehicle.  That being said, I haven't ventured into stock steering wheel controls or navigation systems.


Same here.  Their install/support documentation is excellent.  And they generally have everything needed for the retrofit type installations.  I purchased parts from a combination of Crutchfield and Amazon then handed everything over to Best Buy for the warrantied install.


----------



## Road Guy

wheres the fun in that?


----------



## knight1fox3

^ agreed.  "Back in the day" I was a car audio aficionado.  Had a stereo system that was worth more than my car.  And installed the whole thing myself.  Had a 6 AWG power cable running from my battery to my main amp.  LOL

These days, I just don't have the time.  And it's much more difficult (in my opinion) to dismantle the interior and upholstery on newer vehicles to make everything look clean.


----------



## mudpuppy

knight1fox3 said:


> ^ agreed.  "Back in the day" I was a car audio aficionado.  Had a stereo system that was worth more than my car.  And installed the whole thing myself.  Had a 6 AWG power cable running from my battery to my main amp.  LOL
> 
> These days, I just don't have the time.  And it's much more difficult (in my opinion) to dismantle the interior and upholstery on newer vehicles to make everything look clean.




This.  Plus when you're in high school you tend to own a crappier vehicle, which is easier to work on and you don't care quite as much if the end result is pretty.


----------



## knight1fox3

^ QFT!  I believe to get my rear 6x9 speakers in I took a hacksaw to the interior frame beneath the rear window.  LOL :lmao:


----------



## Flyer_PE

I never went high end on a stereo when I was younger.  My Camaro had a barely legal exhaust and there wasn't much point in throwing a bunch of money at a stereo system that would largely be drowned out by the car.


----------



## ptatohed

I'm very big into weight reduction.  I have shaved 200-300 lb off my supercharged Maxima and about 100 off my bi-turbo S4.  So, while I can respect and appreciate a nice stereo system, you won't find me adding additional weight like amps, subs, etc.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

You don't have to like the Transformers movies to think these cars are sick.  And this weekend at Barrett Jackson, you can own them...







http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Archive/Event/Item/1992-PETERBILT-379-TRANSFORMERS-OPTIMUS-PRIME-STUNT-TRUCK-190024






http://www.barrett-jackson.com/Archive/Event/Item/1967-CHEVROLET-CAMARO-SS-2-DOOR-COUPE-190235


----------



## Supe

That Camaro looks hideous.  Poor choice in air shocks and fender flares.  Splitter arrangement is completely useless, too.

Anyone see any of the 24 Hours of Daytona this past weekend?  Best endurance race I have seen in a looooong time, including the two C7R Corvettes letting it all hang out in the last 15 minutes.  Cars were separated by a fender length at the stripe while the 2nd car was making a charge pulling out of the draft.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I watched the Barrett Jackson auctions all weekend, although I did see the news about the 24hrs of Daytona race.


----------



## Road Guy

So these tires have been awesome in actual snow and mud (BF Goodrich Mud Terrain) but they don't seem to grab the road when its just "wet / slick"  I see them on a ton of vehicles around here, maybe I just have to get used to not being in the Tahoe, which is excellent in snow and rain due to its weight?  Anyone else have these?  Ive really had to adjust my braking distance (even when it hasn't been snowing)

Note to File: My daughter does horseback riding lesson$ at this farm near us that was completely washed out, had a good time riding around in the field Saturday (that was either underwater or frozen) with the owners permission of course..


----------



## jeb6294

Ship Wreck PE said:


> I put a minimax tuner on my 6.4 power stroke a few years back. What kind did you get?? I dropped $1,200 on tuner and 4" exhaust.


I got the *ahem* race tuner, 5" FloPro exhaust with a 6" exhaust tip. That stuff all showed up today. I've also got an Absolute Performance EGR delete and intake on the way. I sent a quick email just to see what it'd cost to have one of the local diesel shops put everything on. It might be worth the $500 to not have to worry about it...a couple EGR bolts are prone to breaking off in the intake.


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> ^ agreed.  "Back in the day" I was a car audio aficionado.  Had a stereo system that was worth more than my car.  And installed the whole thing myself.  Had a 6 AWG power cable running from my battery to my main amp.  LOL
> 
> These days, I just don't have the time.  And it's much more difficult (in my opinion) to dismantle the interior and upholstery on newer vehicles to make everything look clean.


Jensen quads in the rear of the mustang...


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> Jensen quads in the rear of the mustang...


Nice!  I went with Jensen amps and JL subs. :thumbs:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> So these tires have been awesome in actual snow and mud (BF Goodrich Mud Terrain) but they don't seem to grab the road when its just "wet / slick"  I see them on a ton of vehicles around here, maybe I just have to get used to not being in the Tahoe, which is excellent in snow and rain due to its weight?  Anyone else have these?  Ive really had to adjust my braking distance (even when it hasn't been snowing)
> 
> Note to File: My daughter does horseback riding lesson$ at this farm near us that was completely washed out, had a good time riding around in the field Saturday (that was either underwater or frozen) with the owners permission of course..
> 
> View attachment 7757


Those don't fit on the Camaro.


----------



## jeb6294

Sweet Baby Jeebus...I got the tuner installed on the truck.  I've put chips/tunes in vehicles before, but their effectiveness was always debatable.  I put the tuner in the diesel and it was ridiculous.  After installing it, I headed to the interstate to do a few 0-to-80-to-0 runs to "relearn" the transmission and traction was pretty nonexistent.  That was just the 120-hp tune in the tuner.  I still have to put the exhaust (which is huge...it looks like a culvert) and a few other goodies on and that bumps the box tune up to 150-hp.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

jeb6294 said:


> Sweet Baby Jeebus...I got the tuner installed on the truck.  I've put chips/tunes in vehicles before, but their effectiveness was always debatable.  I put the tuner in the diesel and it was ridiculous.  After installing it, I headed to the interstate to do a few 0-to-80-to-0 runs to "relearn" the transmission and traction was pretty nonexistent.  That was just the 120-hp tune in the tuner.  I still have to put the exhaust (which is huge...it looks like a culvert) and a few other goodies on and that bumps the box tune up to 150-hp.


Be careful with the crazy tunes


----------



## csb

At an event on Sunday, the Subaru marketing people asked, "Do you drive a Subaru?" I replied, "I drive a bike." 

I didn't realize there was a smug answer to that question that would feel so satisfying.


----------



## FLBuff PE

Hipster.


----------



## Road Guy

Do you have one of those Boulder stickers that says "one less car"?


----------



## mudpuppy

csb said:


> At an event on Sunday, the Subaru marketing people asked, "Do you drive a Subaru?" I replied, "I drive a bike."
> 
> I didn't realize there was a smug answer to that question that would feel so satisfying.




My smug answer to that question would be, "No, I drive an American car" USA


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> Do you have one of those Boulder stickers that says "one less car"?


The stickers on my bike rack are from a local bike organization and one from the USFS. I only have room for a couple more, so I need to select my uppity messages carefully.


----------



## Road Guy

(even though for a brief second I considered a crosstrek)

last year we were at Winter Park and they were having "Subaru Days" where they raffle off an outback at the base of the mountain, I was proud of my kids when the Subaru skank asked them "hey wouldn't it be cool to drive to the mountain in a Subaru outback next season?"  All three of mine just busted out in laughter and kept walking, I think a tear ran down my face...


----------



## Road Guy

should I be scared of this? This is the "simple connect" wiring harness to keep my radio controls on the steering wheel..

Should I try and use some type of heat gun /solder for these?  I have ordered it but haven't got the instructions yet. the reviews on crutch filed say its easy but this looks like a PIA to me??


----------



## MetsFan

You just have to match up the colors per the instructions. It's not too bad at all. I used butt connectors and a crimping tool followed by some electrical tape to secure the connections.


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

^ is not electrically inclined.

Looks intimidating to me...some of those colors look way too similar.


----------



## Flyer_PE

It's only a PITA if your color blind.  The instructions Crutchfield supplies spell out which wires get connected together.  I soldered the last one I did.  Insulated the connections with heat-shrink tubing.


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> It's only a PITA if your color blind.  The instructions Crutchfield supplies spell out which wires get connected together.  I soldered the last one I did.  Insulated the connections with heat-shrink tubing.


x2.  Solder is definitely the preferred way to go.  Hopefully all the loose leads go to the radio and not under or in the dash.  That way you can solder everything on a benchtop and then just go plug it in.  If the conenction are made under dahs, I might opt for the crimping option.


----------



## Road Guy

Im hoping that the factory wiring harness stays "in tact" &amp; the connections are just to the radio like you said.. I just don't want to cut the factory wiring harness...

Haven't soldered in a long time....


----------



## mudpuppy

Flyer_PE said:


> It's only a PITA if your color blind.  The instructions Crutchfield supplies spell out which wires get connected together.  I soldered the last one I did.  Insulated the connections with heat-shrink tubing.


This, but thankfully I'm not colorblind.  All the solder connections should be to the head unit, so you can do it on a bench rather than on your back on the floor of the car.  This is the huge plus of using Crutchfield.  You may have some leftover wires that aren't connected, but the instructions usually are good at telling you what to do.

You can try using crimp connectors, but (1) they can take up a lot of space that may not be available in your dash, and (2) they're not as reliable as a good solder job.


----------



## Supe

I wouldn't even bother soldering.  Use the "cap" style crimp connectors.  They offer a more positive crimp than butt connectors do, and you're never going to see them anyways.  

Side note - you will probably not need/use all of those wires.


----------



## Flyer_PE

mudpuppy said:


> This, but thankfully I'm not colorblind.


I use the caveat because I'm red-green colorblind.  My wife has helped with the wire colors a time or two.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Just be sure to not confuse the blue w/ white stripes with the white w/ blue stripes...


----------



## matt267 PE

Flyer_PE said:


> I use the caveat because I'm red-green colorblind.  My wife has helped with the wire colors a time or two.


Christmas must be a very gray time for you.


----------



## Road Guy

I should have picked up some of these, this looks like my kind of "simple" yet effective solution..

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_669PP500/Posi-Products-Car-Stereo-Connectors.html


----------



## csb

Is it marketing that the "Quicker-Safer-Easier" packaging is pink?


----------



## snickerd3

since it is pink packaging , the price is probably higher too than a more gender neutral package of the same thing.


----------



## Flyer_PE

csb said:


> Is it marketing that the "Quicker-Safer-Easier" packaging is pink?


Electrical connectors for girls?  Check your Man Card at the door.


----------



## jeb6294

I had to get some connectors to install my tuner the other day....although, I ended up not even needing them because the wire the directions said I was supposed to connect to under the dash didn't work the way it was supposed to so I ended up having to fish the wire up to one of the fuses under the hood.  Advance Auto had one pack of "audio" butt connectors that were like $6 for a pack of 5.  A few racks over, they had "regular" butt connectors that were $3 for a pack of 8.  A butt connector either connects the wire or it doesn't.  How can one be sooo much better than another?


----------



## knight1fox3

jeb6294 said:


> How can one be sooo much better than another?


Made in China....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

You will throw out at least 4 of that 8-pack because they fell off after crimping. I can never seem to get the cheaper ones to actually stay on.


----------



## Supe

The "audio" ones typically have a gold or nickel plating on them.  They all tend to work fine with a decent crimp tool, though the tolerances are night and day between a good one and a shitty one.  The jacket materials are different, too.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Dexman PE PMP said:


> You will throw out at least 4 of that 8-pack because they fell off after crimping. I can never seem to get the cheaper ones to actually stay on.









You need a good crimping tool.

This is the one I have used for years.


----------



## Supe

I use the Channellock version of those same crimpers for 99% of what I do.  They're the only ones I trust.  Cheaper at Lowes than they are at Amazon.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I use one of those all-in-one cut/strip/crimp tools.  It handles most of what I need, but when I find some of those crappy connectors I bust out my vice grip pliers.


----------



## mudpuppy

Solder it and you'll never have to worry about it.  My motorcycle almost caught on fire because someone used a crimp connection that later corroded and got really really hot.


----------



## MetsFan

I replaced the battery in my Bimmer yesterday.  Man, what a pain in the ass.  It took me half an hour just to take the old battery out and put the new one in.  The hole it goes in just fits the battery and the wires and distribution panel are all in the way.  At least I saved $200.


----------



## jeb6294

Truck's got replaced a couple weeks ago when I took it in.  They've got a special diesel service that changes the oil and does a bunch of that other diesel specific stuff so the good news, the labor was basically $0 because it was thrown in with the rest of the work they did.  Bad news, had to buy two batteries cause it's a diesel.



MetsFan said:


> I replaced the battery in my Bimmer yesterday.  Man, what a pain in the ass.  It took me half an hour just to take the old battery out and put the new one in.  The hole it goes in just fits the battery and the wires and distribution panel are all in the way.  At least I saved $200.


----------



## MetsFan

Free labor is always good.  I just took the Touareg in for the 40K service and they quoted me $450, which included changing the air filter and cabin filter.  I asked how much it would be if I removed those two and she said $130.  Sold.  I bought the two filters on Amazon for around $50 and will be installing them myself.

I was at a job site today where they require all kinds of information from you, including car make, model, license plate #, etc.  The guy asked me what the make was and I said BMW.  He says, "oh, nice car".  It reminded me of this picture:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ Please tell me your Bimmer isn't blue...

http://www.cnbc.com/id/100962569


----------



## MetsFan

Dexman PE PMP said:


> ^^^ Please tell me your Bimmer isn't blue...
> 
> http://www.cnbc.com/id/100962569


Ha, that's pretty funny. I have a black one. Although if I were to buy a new one, blue would be at the top of my list.


----------



## MA_PE

and you're from MA, where the drivers are always courteous.


----------



## jeb6294

Oh, believe me...it wasn't free.  There was enough other stuff going on that they were able to throw the new batteries in under one umbrella.  If I'd just been there for an oil change and they told me I needed new batteries, I would have done it myself.



MetsFan said:


> Free labor is always good.  I just took the Touareg in for the 40K service and they quoted me $450, which included changing the air filter and cabin filter.  I asked how much it would be if I removed those two and she said $130.  Sold.  I bought the two filters on Amazon for around $50 and will be installing them myself.


----------



## Road Guy

so finally opened my box from crutchfield, no instructions, check my email, no instructions, call them Saturday morning,   they said they were sorry but they didn't have a custom install sheet for the 2015 Jeep Wrangler? (Wtf) but that they would be happy to work me through it over the phone.. ughh no thanks... sending it back to them today.. what a waste of fucking time..


----------



## snickerd3

bummer RG.


----------



## Road Guy

Im just going to have one of those car audio places install one, Its about the same $$ I just got pissed when they all want $100 to install my satellite radio receiver into the new radio (it literally just plugs in)  so I will do the normal installation and then take the dash apart and install the sat radio thing myself like last time


----------



## MetsFan

That sucks man


----------



## MA_PE

well that's a bummer.  On the bright side you can hammer Margharita's all day and when you're done, the radio will be all installed and ready to use.


----------



## Supe

That's very peculiar.


----------



## jeb6294

That doesn't sound like Crutchfield...usually they are pretty on top of things.

Spent the weekend putting my exhaust on the truck.  Getting the old one out was the worst part...all the sensors and hangers were up high where they were hard to get to.  It ended up being easier to unbolt the hanger brackets from the frame and take it out that way.  The new exhaust is a lot less "stuff" so it only had to put one bracket back in anyway.  Only other hiccup was when the hanger had broken on one of the new pieces of pipe.  Fortunately it was the very last piece that curves around to the side of the truck and dumps the exhaust behind the back tire and lets you show off the giant 6" shiny exhaust tip. A lot of diesel guys will run an exhaust dump...bringing the pipe over the rear axle and then just letting it dump straight towards the ground...so mine is running that way right now.  Flo Pro is going to send a new pipe, but I'm kinda liking the sound and the stealth the way it is now so I might just leave it.

The thing sounds unreal now.  I've had Mustangs and an I-6 Jeep with a straight pipe but nothing close to this.  If you stomp on the gas it is a deep un-godly roar mixed with huge amounts of turbo whistle.


----------



## Road Guy

2020 Ford Bronco- aside from the ghetto rims, yes please!


----------



## knight1fox3

Not too bad looking actually.  And comes in "OJ-white" already I see. :lmao:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The only complaint I would have are the "external" hinges on the door.  Those are always the first thing to rust out on Jeeps and there's no way to protect them.


----------



## jeb6294

Wouldn't surprise me if the hinges are purely for looks.  I also started to say the front end looks more like an IH Scout than a Bronco, but which one came first?


----------



## knight1fox3

What if the hinges are made from grade 316 SS?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

lol @ Ford using quality materials...


----------



## Road Guy

I am on my fourth jeep wrangler and have never had any issues with hinges rusting and most of my jeeps were pretty old, the TJ i had that was from Pennsylvania had a ton of rust pretty much everywhere except the hinges.. Lols...

I hope they make it a 3 speed shift on the column like the original broncos


----------



## Road Guy

anyone see any red flags on this?  looks like its too good to be true?  Since this is a factory radio, all I would have to do is pull the dash , unplug, and plug in new one..??  sometimes when something looks too good to be true it usually is?

http://www.oemautopartsco.com/products/refurbished-jeep-rbz-430-mygig-touchscreen-radio-high?utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_source=googlepla&amp;gclid=Cj0KEQiAu9q2BRDq3MDbvOL1yaYBEiQAD6qoBkNEMBsZcT4roRwbWTReFT80vKEnyXOx7OO9_s1SbAwaAijb8P8HAQ


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Refurbished.

It's impossible to tell what was done to it to require it to be rebuilt.  It could be anything from a small internal fuse, all the way to full component replacement. If done right, refurbished units work just fine, but you can never tell if it was done properly. No warranty unless you spend the extra $50 for one year.


----------



## MA_PE

so is this a factory optional radio for your jeep?

Here's a new one for $50 cheaper.  It says they were pulled form new cars to add GPS.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-FACTORY-OEM-430-RBZ-RB2-CD-MP3-DVD-HDD-AUX-MYGIG-RADIO-HIGH-SPEED-BUS-/191648060434?hash=item2c9f1d5412:g:9EwAAOSwSdZWgRGx&amp;vxp=mtr

seller has 100% positive feedback.  (check the note on the bluetooth to see if it's applicable ot you).


----------



## Road Guy

damn I didn't even think of ebay!  all I really want is the next model up that has the built in sat radio, there are tons of them there for like $50 bucks!


----------



## jeb6294

I checked the OEM place a couple times before.  I don't think there's anything wrong with their radios, but you'd need to make double sure it'll work with your car.

Example, when I was looking in to replacing the stereo in my Dodge, there were some radios that would only be plug and play if you already had Bluetooth because the Bluetooth was a separate module under the dash.  There were also differences between stereos that might look and function the same but were from different Dodge vehicles...one would be a high-speed bus and the other a low-speed...so you'd have to make sure you got the right one.  Being under the whole Chrysler umbrella, I'm not sure if any of that would apply to a Jeep or not.

I've also looked into getting an updated stereo for my F-350.  The drawback to that one is price.  Getting touchscreen would be nice, but the biggest thing is getting HD radio.  We've got a couple good HD stations but $1,300+ is a bit steep just to get HD.


----------



## knight1fox3

This is the deck I ended up putting in.  Very happy with it.  Awesome sound.  The hands free phone interface via BT is great.


----------



## Road Guy

^- that one is similar to one I was looking at, but seems by the time you buy everything its like $500 to$600 bucks to be able to keep the steering wheel controls.  Ive got too many other things I need to do to the jeep to spend that much on it right now, but probably will in the future..

I just ordered one from ebay that came out of the same year model wrangler, but has the sat radio and USB ports in it, it was pulled from a new jeep, so for $50 bucks I will give it a shot

I've got 4 months left of free sat radio so I just need to be able to pull the receiver out of the Tahoe and put in the jeep , but its the receiver that plugs into the back of the radio not the separate receivers (if that makes any sense) ..  They wont let me transfer the sat radio since I signed up for the free 6 months deal..


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> ^- that one is similar to one I was looking at, but seems by the time you buy everything its like $500 to$600 bucks to be able to keep the steering wheel controls.  Ive got too many other things I need to do to the jeep to spend that much on it right now, but probably will in the future..


Hit it right on the head.  $600 was what Best Buy quoted me.  But the tech told me to buy the equipment on my end to save some $$ so I ended up saving $100 overall.  So $500 for not having to mess with anything myself and a clean looking install with a life-time warranty should anything malfunction.  Pricey, yes.  But worth it for my situation at the time.

I forgot about the front USB port, that is also a nice feature for attaching other devices and/or charging.


----------



## Road Guy

I went to another place yesterday and almost pulled the trigger but I keep getting caught up that all these places want $150 to "install" the sat radio receiver

this is the one I already own: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/siriusxm-connect-satellite-radio-vehicle-tuner-black/8110015.p?id=1219313203760&amp;skuId=8110015

It literally plugs in the back of the radio, takes maybe 5 minutes to run the antenna wire, so I get pissed off and leave.. been to 2 local car audi places and best buy they all run the same scam

I had a similar radio put in my Tahoe last year, while the hands free phone works nice I just didn't ever really use it that much, I know they look ghey, but I have a blue tooth headset I use when I am in the car for a long time and just like the way it works &amp; sounds when I am driving to f'n Nebraska or somewhere in the middle of nowhere..

I hope this one just plugs and plays, I will deal with the upgrade down the road, Ive got a lift kit to pay for


----------



## knight1fox3

^ as with anything of this nature, the labor rate is a beotch!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ And the kid doing it only gets about $10.


----------



## MetsFan

I think it might be time for an upgrade... I went to the BMW dealer on Saturday for an oil change and one of those complimentary checks. It turns out I need to do a lot of work to my car. I knew these were issues already, but didn't know how much it would end up. 

oil filter housing gasket is leaking
oil pan gasket is leaking
some other oil leak I can't remember that they quoted $1500 for but said it can wait till after the first two leaks are fixed
rear struts are leaking
rear brakes are going to need replacement soon
driver's side halo light is out
passenger adaptive headlight doesn't turn anymore

The quote for all the repairs, minus the $1500 one is about $2,500.


----------



## Supe

You're doing an excellent job of making me not want a BMW as my next DD.


----------



## MetsFan

Yeah I love the way it drives but the repairs are painful


----------



## MA_PE

I forget...how old is your car?  how many miles?  $4k is a hefty repair bill but it's lots less than $30k + for a new vehicle.


----------



## MetsFan

It's a 2007 with 75k miles. It's worth about 7-8k.

That's what is holding me back. Although I wouldn't buy a new car. I would probably get something under 20k including the trade in.


----------



## MA_PE

75k is not a lot of miles.  If the big reapir bill keeps it going for another 3-4 years then it's  good deal.  Stuff does wear out and need replacing.


----------



## snickerd3

Just passed the 100,000 miles on the odometer on the drive work this morning.  Bought the car Dec 23, 2012.  This is my third car to reach the &gt;100K mark.


----------



## MetsFan

MA_PE said:


> 75k is not a lot of miles.  If the big reapir bill keeps it going for another 3-4 years then it's  good deal.  Stuff does wear out and need replacing.


That's what I say every year haha. I spent about 2k last year and 2k the year before.


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> Just passed the 100,000 miles on the odometer on the drive work this morning.  Bought the car Dec 23, 2012.  This is my third car to reach the &gt;100K mark.


Man, you must rack up a serious amount of mileage each year unless those were bought used.  My 2008 still has under 90K on it.  Once it hits about 100K its due for a timing belt service which isn't cheap.  That is probably when I will call it quits and turn it into a backup/loaner race car.


----------



## snickerd3

Supe said:


> Man, you must rack up a serious amount of mileage each year unless those were bought used.  My 2008 still has under 90K on it.  Once it hits about 100K its due for a timing belt service which isn't cheap.  That is probably when I will call it quits and turn it into a backup/loaner race car.


the first one was used, the other two were brand new purchases.  I manage 25k-30k miles a year. I have ~53ish mile one way commute to work


----------



## jeb6294

That was one of the arguments for getting the diesel.  Having GOBS of power is nice, but 100k is just getting broke in for a diesel.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ And with modern production quality means that your engine is just getting broken in as the rest of it is falling apart.


----------



## snickerd3

Dexman PE PMP said:


> ^^^ And with modern production quality means that your engine is just getting broken in as the rest of it is falling apart.


that was true on my first car, the chevy blazer.  seemed like every month there was another trip to the mechanic

My second was a crv and had almost 170k miles on it when i traded it in, but it still had lots of life yet and nothing major wrong.  Just had major hail damage (looked like swiss cheese after the hail storm) repaired so the car looked brand spanking new and I was wanting a car with some more bells and whistles on the inside. i had bought the super basic crv.


----------



## Road Guy

Bought this about three years ago, finally found the right vehicle to put it on


----------



## blybrook PE

At 85k, the stock turbo went out on my diesel. Currently in the shop for a performance turbo and upgraded exhaust brake. Looks to be around a 7k repair and the clutch will be next (most likely).

Still wouldn't trade it in for a gasser though.


----------



## jeb6294

As long as you don't do the overdone "zombie response vehicle" motif that seems to be popular right now.  Yes, yes, all the other moms are very impressed when you roll up to soccer practice in your H2 "Zombie Hunter".



Road Guy said:


> Bought this about three years ago, finally found the right vehicle to put it on


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I know it sounds counter-productive, but I finally ordered the last of the rear suspension parts and have scheduled the last of the audio install for Bee.  I'd like to make sure everything is working properly before I leave.  If I end up shipping Bee out to NZ, then I won't have to worry about fixing it there, and I know it will be in good shape if we come home.

I also plan on getting a full professional detail for Bee before he gets put into storage. I'd hate to come back in 6 months to find a bug splatter permanently etched into the paint because it was dirty.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE PMP said:


> I know it sounds counter-productive, but I finally ordered the last of the rear suspension parts and have scheduled the last of the audio install for Bee.  I'd like to make sure everything is working properly before I leave.  If I end up shipping Bee out to NZ, then I won't have to worry about fixing it there, and I know it will be in good shape if we come home.
> 
> I also plan on getting a full professional detail for Bee before he gets put into storage. I'd hate to come back in 6 months to find a bug splatter permanently etched into the paint because it was dirty.


@csb will appreciate all your hard work for these upgrades. :thumbs:



Dexman PE PMP said:


> I also plan on getting a full professional detail for Bee before *he gets put into storage*.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

He's gotten the talk before. He can handle it.


----------



## csb

I'm still offering to hotrod the piss out of it watch your car for you.


----------



## MA_PE

RG:

This one's for you.

http://www.jk-forum.com/articles/sleeper-cj-7-embarasses-ferrari-street/?newsletter?utm_source=jan16&amp;utm_medium=email&amp;utm_campaign=content

including the song on the  video


----------



## Road Guy

^-- a belated lol!

********

So I took the Tahoe (2002, 182K miles) in for some regular service this week, I had been dealing with a small oil leak and asked them to check it out.. so here is my laundry list of all that is leaking:

1. Needs new Oil Pan Gasket- ughh

2. Front Pinion Seal Right?

3. Axle Seal - Rear Differential Cover

We found a shop that we like and they have been good to work with, my measurement for that is my wife goes by herself there for an oil change and doesn't get asked to have a bunch of other shit done, plus they don't work weekends so they don't seem to be all about the benjamins..

They said since I am not driving it that much these are no rush, I don't want to mess with the oil pan gasket, I did one of those on an older jeep and it was a long weekend! Ill gladly pay the $ for that one.

Do you think the other two are things I can do in my garage?  At first glance the rear axle seal doesn't look that bad? Just trying to save a little bit of dough and teach RG JR how to do some maintenance?  its only being driving around 20 miles a week which is good, but I will need the Tahoe this summer for some family trips and whatnot


----------



## MetsFan

How much is your oil pan gasket repair? That's what the dealer quoted $1500 for on my bimmer.

I really like the is350 on paper. It sounds like it would be a lot more reliable than my car. There don't seem to be as many of them available as the abundant is250 though.


----------



## Road Guy

he said it wouldn't be more than $600.

I did one on a 1994 Jeep wrangler a while back, it was a total PIA, seemed like it should be simple but for some reason there were 3 different size bolts holding the pan on, keeping track of which was not fun.  Ill gladly pay someone to do that..


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Oil Pan work greatly varies depending on vehicle.  I've seen some that require you to lift the motor off of the frame, whereas others are only slightly more work intensive than an oil change. Without crawling underneath, it's hard to say where in the spectrum the Tahoe would be.


----------



## mudpuppy

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Oil Pan work greatly varies depending on vehicle.  I've seen some that require you to lift the motor off of the frame, whereas others are only slightly more work intensive than an oil change. Without crawling underneath, it's hard to say where in the spectrum the Tahoe would be.




Yeah, I read the manual for replacing the oil pan on my Bronco... step 1:  Remove the radiator.  Step 2:  Remove the intake manifold (all to make room for jacking the engine up).  Yeah, no thanks.  I ended up paying $1500 to have it replaced.


----------



## MA_PE

front subframe members cross under the pan, somehtings gotta give.  Either you raise the motor or you work in really tight quarters to get the pan dropped to change the gasket.  Not for the sqeamish of "lift-less".


----------



## Road Guy

The pan on my old jeep was not too bad but laying on the floor dolly all day I started seeing spots.. The thing that made it difficult was that for some reason they used 3 different size bolts to hold it in and it was not fun keeping track of which was which (total of around 18 bolts) no clue why they would do that.

The tahoe looks cumbersome from some internet searching- I'll just pay the money.. What about the rear differential gasket? That's just like draining a small oils pan?


----------



## Road Guy

so I bought a used radio from another 2015 jeep that had the bells and whistles I was looking for, $50 bucks on ebay.

install was a snap , took maybe 10 minutes. but I guess there are security codes so I had to take the jeep to the dealer and get them to pull the code for me.   Even though mine just came with the AM/FM/CD radio, it had all the wiring for the phone connect, gps, and sat radio. Worked like a champ, retained the steering wheel controls and I guess the radio has some free subscription on the sat radio left, its worked when I plugged it all in (after getting the anti theft code).  cant complain for $50 bucks (compared to $500+)


----------



## MA_PE

Nice!  to Quote Col. Hannibal Smith "I love it when a plan comes together".


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Nice!  to Quote Col. Hannibal Smith "I love it when a plan comes together".


----------



## MA_PE

um....no

Col. Hannibal Smith


----------



## blybrook PE

The rear axle differential gasket is a piece of cake. Just need a drain pan, a few quarts of 80w-90 and some gasket maker. Don't bother getting the stock paper gasket, just apply a healthy dose of permatex red or blue, tighten and refill.

Sometimes the hardest part is refilling the diff, so have a couple feet of clear plastic tubing on hand to put on the bottle and into the diff to make sure you get it filled.


----------



## Supe

With the permatex, lightly snug into place, let it cure for a bit, then do your final torque. Doesn't all squeeze out that way and lasts longer. Never ever had a water pump leak that way, either.


----------



## Road Guy

Yes get out of here with that Liam Neeson BS- to hell with that bastard!

I've been checking out some videos on the differential.. It does look straightforward! Will give it a whack (after ski season)!


----------



## Road Guy

I've been scouting out some trails for when the snow melts, this one looks fun but "death" is listed as a possibility...


----------



## knight1fox3

What, no one liked the new A-Team movie? :dunno:   I thought it was pretty good.


----------



## Road Guy

I just cant stand Liam Neeson anymore...


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> I just cant stand Liam Neeson anymore...


But he was a Jedi Master!


----------



## Supe

Porsche is ready for final alignment and corner balance.  Friend has been sending me updates of the work.  Had a caliper completely frozen that he swapped off a parts car.  Rear torsion bars are in, bushings were a mother to remove, but are now all replaced with delrin.  Front coilovers are installed, sway bars are on, even the shifter is fixed (replaces the factory pinned piece that develops slop with a nut/bolt setup that rides between needle bearings.)

If I can get my health back, I'll be picking it up on Sunday.


----------



## envirotex

mudpuppy said:


> Yeah, I read the manual for replacing the oil pan on my Bronco... step 1:  Remove the radiator.  Step 2:  Remove the intake manifold (all to make room for jacking the engine up).  Yeah, no thanks.  I ended up paying $1500 to have it replaced.


What year Bronco?  I have a '79.


----------



## Supe

Smallblock Fords are notoriously shitty in most cases because of the front sump/pickup.  You rarely ever have enough room to remove the pan, since it often hangs over the front crossmember.


----------



## mudpuppy

envirotex said:


> What year Bronco?  I have a '79.


'96 but I sold it a few years ago.  Was a total rustbox and I'd already dumped too much money into it.  Loved it though!


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> I've been scouting out some trails for when the snow melts, this one looks fun but "death" is listed as a possibility...View attachment 7839


I think "death" is a possibility for everything.


----------



## Road Guy

You will be invited to the EB trail rides this summer!


----------



## jeb6294

Well, we officially went camper shopping on Saturday.  When we first started checking out some of the floorplans, the logical choice was something with a bunkhouse and room for 2 adults and anywhere from 1 to 4 kids depending on the weekend.  To get enough room, they were getting big enough that we were into 5th wheel territory.  At one point, the wife started talking about a toy hauler.  There are always lots of golf carts running around and the thought of being able to load up the motorcycle sounded good.

There's a dealer about 10 minutes from our house, Holman RV, so we ran out there. They had probably 20-25 toy haulers lined up that we could look at.  We only made it through about half of them, but there was one that stuck out as a clear front runner.  It's got a 12' garage, the ramp turns into an elevated and covered deck and there's another elevated deck that drops down on the side.  In the garage there are couches on both walls that fold down to make a queen size bed, there's another queen size bunk that drops down from the ceiling, there's a "3-season wall" to close up the back, a 30" TV, it's got it's own separate HVAC, a half-bathroom and a roll of carpet to put down once the toys are unloaded so what you end up with is a nice big separate bunkhouse for the kids.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

So many words on that diagram that are the complete opposite of camping....Theatre, loft, patio, ent. center, shower, dresser. 

That thing is nicer than most hotel rooms...


----------



## MA_PE

yeah that's pretty cool.  What's the total length ~48ft so as a 5th wheel you're adding ~40ft+ to the vehicle?


----------



## jeb6294

Most of the ones we've been looking at are ~40-43ft.  Never towed a fifth wheel before, but during the course of our research a big 5th wheel is actually easier to tow than a mid-30ft travel trailer.  When the lady asked what I was driving, I told her it's a Ford Ranger but it should be okay because it's got the V-6.  I don't think she was amused.

We looked at another one we both liked last night.  Place had a different one with a side patio that we initially went to look at but didn't like as much as the one above...the patio wasn't nearly as big.  While we were there we saw another one we liked without a side patio that'll go on the short list if we decide we don't need/want the side patio.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Based on the comments I've seen from my neighbors with campers, they have 2 relatively big complaints:

1) Storage is a bitch. They pay anywhere from $50-$200 per month just for a place to park it (HOA doesn't allow campers on the property unless parked inside the garage). Costs of storage spaces all depend on the size and whether it's a "back-in" or "pull-through" space.

2) They feel obligated to use it every weekend. Because they cost so much, it's like committing to only one vacation that you have to use all the time to justify the costs.  If you love "camping" all the time it's great, but if you only like going out a couple times a year, you're almost better off renting.

One of the couples in the neighborhood almost ended up in a divorce over their camper because she got tired of feeling like they had to camp all the time and hated that they spent so much money on it.  He loved it, but he made his wife handle all the "trip prep" and cleanup because he had to deal with the setup, tear down, and storage. 

The ones who seem to enjoy theirs more are the ones who have smaller campers. They are just looking for a roof over their heads when out and instead focus more of their money on the destination and activities.


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Based on the comments I've seen from my neighbors with campers, they have 2 relatively big complaints:
> 
> 1) Storage is a bitch. They pay anywhere from $50-$200 per month just for a place to park it (HOA doesn't allow campers on the property unless parked inside the garage). Costs of storage spaces all depend on the size and whether it's a "back-in" or "pull-through" space.
> 
> 2) They feel obligated to use it every weekend. Because they cost so much, it's like committing to only one vacation that you have to use all the time to justify the costs.  If you love "camping" all the time it's great, but if you only like going out a couple times a year, you're almost better off renting.
> 
> One of the couples in the neighborhood almost ended up in a divorce over their camper because she got tired of feeling like they had to camp all the time and hated that they spent so much money on it.  He loved it, but he made his wife handle all the "trip prep" and cleanup because he had to deal with the setup, tear down, and storage.
> 
> The ones who seem to enjoy theirs more are the ones who have smaller campers. They are just looking for a roof over their heads when out and instead focus more of their money on the destination and activities.




Sounds like friends of ours.  They bought a decent mid-sized camper, along with a new Ram pickup and a fifth wheel to pull it about 2 years ago.  They post everything they do on Facebook, and have maybe used it twice.


----------



## jeb6294

The new Mrs-6294 is the one who started all this so there won't be any arguments from her.  There's a big campground just north of Dayton that her family goes to every year.  Last year when we went up, we actually took the golf cart around to check out some of the permanent sites, i.e. campers or 5th wheels on concrete pads with hard utility connections, that were for sale up there.  That would actually be a cheaper way to go but both of us said the same thing...if we had a place up there, we would feel obligated to go up there all the time and we've already found a few other places we'd like to check out.

Storage will be a PITA for a little while, but we already asked mom how she'd feel about a concrete pad in the back part of the yard with a driveway off the side street next to her house and she was fine with it.  One house a couple doors down already has a place to keep their camper out back so any permitting, if there is any out where she is, shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Supe

Tomorrow morning I head south to Alabama for the first TT event of the 2016 season, as I begin my ITS championship defense.  Really looking forward to seeing what the new suspension setup will do, but will be both pissed and mortified if I can't top my times from last year.  

Hoping my chest decides to be cooperative as well.  

My boss/teammate can't make this event, so I'm flying solo until I get down to Buford, GA, where I'll caravan the rest of the way with another racing buddy.  Goal is to make it to the other side of Atlanta before we hit the shit show that is Friday rush hour traffic, so I'll be hitting the road at roughly 6AM EST.  

Fingers crossed that both me and the car make it there and back in one piece.  Brakes on the truck took a dump, but thankfully the place down the street was able to do them today, so I should be ready to go.  Also need to take a trip to my buddy's place who offered to mount and balance the new race tires for me.


----------



## mudpuppy

Where in Bama is your race?


----------



## Supe

Munford - Talladega Grand Prix Raceway


----------



## mudpuppy

Talladega?!  Shake N Bake!


----------



## Supe




----------



## MetsFan

I want to ride in a ring taxi...


----------



## MA_PE

mudpuppy said:


> Talladega?!  Shake N Bake!


yes.  he just said that!

you got to shake it before you bake it.


----------



## Supe

The good news is that the car performed awesome, took 4 seconds off my best time from last year, and the new suspension works killer.

The bad part is that the new suspension works so well in the corners, that it starved the bearings of oil, and half my motor decided to make an abrupt exit out the bottom of the car coming out of turn 1 onto the straight.  Thankfully I have already located a replacement engine that I'll be picking up in about two weeks and dropping in after swapping the rod bearings out for safe measure.


----------



## Road Guy

damn, hope you have some sponsors to help offset that!

on a related note I saw GNR there in 1991.


----------



## Supe

Nope, no sponsor dollars.  Fortunately, the replacement motor is only $650, and the new parts another hundred or so.  Could have been a LOT worse.  As my buddy put it, "you take this a lot better than most sports car racers, but that's because you're a drag racer who is out ten grand when you blow up a motor, not a few hundred bucks!"


----------



## Supe

Guess that's just more tax return money that's being directed away from the wedding...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> The good news is that the car performed awesome, took 4 seconds off my best time from last year, and the new suspension works killer.
> 
> The bad part is that the *new suspension works so well in the corners, that it starved the bearings of oil,* and half my motor decided to make an abrupt exit out the bottom of the car coming out of turn 1 onto the straight.  Thankfully I have already located a replacement engine that I'll be picking up in about two weeks and dropping in after swapping the rod bearings out for safe measure.


There are several guys in the Camaro world who change out oil pumps for this very reason.


----------



## Supe

I'm curious to see which cylinder failed.  On 944 motors, it tends to be the #2 rod, since it shares its oiling with the balance shaft.  But based on where the gaping hole is in my motor, I suspect it's the #4 cylinder.  They gave me a chunk of the rod they found as a memento, and it's so black and blue that it's pretty obvious the bearing turned in the bore.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Got the new rear dampers, lower control arms, and sway bar installed in the Camaro on Friday. It's amazing how much tightening the rear sway bar can affect the steering of a car. I may have set it a little too stiff and put too much oversteer in it, so I will have to reset it when I get the chance. It's still drive-able, but I need to be careful on high speed corners


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Got the new rear dampers, lower control arms, and sway bar installed in the Camaro on Friday. It's amazing how much tightening the rear sway bar can affect the steering of a car. I may have set it a little too stiff and put too much oversteer in it, so I will have to reset it when I get the chance. It's still drive-able, but I need to be careful on high speed corners


Oh yeah, BIG difference.  On a RWD car with any kind of power, you typically want a small bar, or one set close to full loose, or you're going to have oversteer everywhere.  I don't even run a rear bar on the Mazda, whereas on the Porsche with 130ish HP, I have the front bar set loose and a beefy sway bar out back with the links set close to full stiff so I can force the car to rotate mid-turn without too much throttle input.  You can try softening the rear shocks a bit too if they're adjustable.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Shocks aren't adjustable.  I haven't logged a lot of miles with the new setup, nor have I had it properly aligned.  Once I get it aligned (after replacing the front shocks), I will re-asses how it feels. It's definitely looser than it was before, but I need to determine if it feels too loose because I've grown accustomed to the understeer, or if it actually is too loose.


----------



## Supe

If the back end is starting to come around at speed on a constant radius turn without you getting on the throttle, then its too loose.  Mid corner oversteer is often attributed to either too much rear roll stiffness, or too high a tire pressure (which is moot on a street car).  Corner exit oversteer is about the same, though too little roll stiffness can also cause it if the inside tire is completely unloading.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

With what you have described, it appears I have the bar too tight.  Both the old bar and the new bar are 3-way adjustable, but due to the change in endlink connection points (old bar connects between the springs, new one connects outside), the geometry of the new bar makes it inherently stiffer.  I had the old bar at the stiffest setting, so I was debating setting the new bar between the mid and loose (went with the mid).  Knowing what I know now, I'll try it on the looser setting.


----------



## Supe

Yeah, if its the three hole type, put it towards the outermost hole and you'll probably be in good shape.


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> Yeah, if its the three hole type, put it towards the outermost hole and you'll probably be in good shape.




I tried, but she didn't like me using that third hole.


----------



## Road Guy

required more tequila


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

You obviously didn't pay enough.


----------



## Supe

mudpuppy said:


> I tried, but she didn't like me using that third hole.


Sometimes it can be a bit stubborn, but nothing a BFH won't take care of.


----------



## envirotex

Anybody have any experience with BMW's turbodiesel?

Looking to replace the lacrosse mom SUV with an X5 I found...


----------



## MetsFan

envirotex said:


> Anybody have any experience with BMW's turbodiesel?
> 
> Looking to replace the lacrosse mom SUV with an X5 I found...


Take a look here:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=154

I can only tell you about my 3 series experience, which is not to own a Bimmer after the warranty expires


----------



## envirotex

Unfortunately, that is what I have heard, too.  I like the idea of a diesel though...


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> I like the idea of a diesel though...


Why?  The ROI is not making leaps and bounds past the conventional variety.


----------



## Road Guy

you get that cool clicking sound when the car idles?


----------



## csb

It's 40 miles to the gallon and it hauls! 

At least that was what was neat when I test drove a diesel VW.


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> 10 minutes ago, envirotex said:
> 
> I like the idea of a diesel though...
Click to expand...

Why?  The ROI is not making leaps and bounds past the conventional variety.

Longevity of a diesel engine...apparently, though on a BMW everything else wears out after 3 years or 36,000 miles.


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> It's 40 miles to the gallon and it hauls!
> 
> At least that was what was neat when I test drove a diesel VW.


Ya but they lied about their numbers.  LOL


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^ to be fair, they lied about their emissions programming, not their fuel mileage.


----------



## Supe

Except that the EPA retrofits are going to reduce the fuel mileage below advertised.


----------



## snickerd3

why retrofit?  There are tons more cars on the road spitting out way more/worse emissions.  It will just make future versions less fuel efficient


----------



## Supe

Because they have no choice due to their agreement with the US Gov't.  They have to retrofit to meet emissions requirements, or offer a buyback with minimal offset for depreciation for over a half million cars.


----------



## snickerd3

I meant the individual car owner taking the car in for the recall


----------



## Supe

They have no choice.  California set the precedent - the states are going to deny renewal of registration unless the vehicles have been outfitted after VW offers the service for X amount of time.


----------



## snickerd3

ugh...at that point i would probably opt for buy back


----------



## Supe

They're being forced into the buyback program, because they admitted that even with the urea injection systems, etc., they can't meet the originally advertised MPG numbers.  It was speculated that the buyback offering will be even greater if they use it as a trade-in on a new VW vehicle.


----------



## envirotex

So does this mean I could pick up a Touareg for really cheap, but then I probably won't be able to register it anyway?  I mean I'm from Texas, everyone knows we don't care about the environment here...


----------



## Supe

No.  Dealerships are not permitted to sell the noncompliant vehicles.


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> So does this mean I could pick up a Touareg for really cheap, but then I probably won't be able to register it anyway?  I mean I'm from Texas, everyone knows we don't care about the environment here...


Go for Infiniti if you want some reliability. :thumbs:

Or a Tesla.


----------



## MetsFan

envirotex said:


> So does this mean I could pick up a Touareg for really cheap, but then I probably won't be able to register it anyway?  I mean I'm from Texas, everyone knows we don't care about the environment here...


Just get a V6. My 2011 has had almost 40k problem free miles... Knock on wood (laminate). Isn't gas in TX super cheap?


----------



## MetsFan

knight1fox3 said:


> 1 hour ago, envirotex said:
> 
> So does this mean I could pick up a Touareg for really cheap, but then I probably won't be able to register it anyway?  I mean I'm from Texas, everyone knows we don't care about the environment here...
> 
> 
> 
> Go for Infiniti if you want some reliability. :thumbs:
> 
> Or a Tesla.
Click to expand...

I'm picking up a used G37 in a few days. I'm hoping for many trouble free years.


----------



## knight1fox3

MetsFan said:


> 1 hour ago, envirotex said:So does this mean I could pick up a Touareg for really cheap, but then I probably won't be able to register it anyway?  I mean I'm from Texas, everyone knows we don't care about the environment here...
> 
> 
> 
> Go for Infiniti if you want some reliability. :thumbs: Or a Tesla.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm picking up a used G37 in a few days. I'm hoping for many trouble free years.
Click to expand...

That's what I drive now. Best trouble free car I've ever owned.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

In New Zealand, they're called a Nissan Skyline


----------



## envirotex

MetsFan said:


> Just get a V6. My 2011 has had almost 40k problem free miles... Knock on wood (laminate). Isn't gas in TX super cheap?


I paid $1.79 today...


----------



## MetsFan

envirotex said:


> 43 minutes ago, MetsFan said:
> 
> Just get a V6. My 2011 has had almost 40k problem free miles... Knock on wood (laminate). Isn't gas in TX super cheap?
> 
> 
> 
> I paid $1.79 today...
Click to expand...

Yeah that's cheap. We are at around $2.20.


----------



## Road Guy

I miss boating season...







(Chevy Drivers)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## akwooly

Changing the oil in my boat tonight hopefully get it on the water this weekend.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jeb6294

When I lived in Jacksonville (FL), on nice weekends I used to walk down to the park and back to get a little exercise.  The park was right on the St. Johns River so it had a good sized boat ramp that was pretty nice.  I sit for a bit and laugh and laugh.


----------



## Supe

Replacement Porsche motor is sitting on the engine stand waiting for parts.  Blown up motor is out of the car.  The damage was impressive.  Piston is still in the bore, with a chunk of rod stuck in it point sideways.  Bearing journals and counterweights chewed all to hell.  Also blew a chunk out of the block behind the motor mount.  

I was a bit leery about racing a "new" high mileage motor.  Guy I bought it from had another 944 motor with the head off there in his driveway.  I don't know what Porsche did metallurgically in their cylinders, but good lord.  175k+ miles, zero cylinder scuffing and just the faintest hint of ring wear at the top of the piston travel.  The bore also had a very unique medium grey color to it - looked almost like a ceramic coating as opposed to the normal shiny steel you see in motors with steel liners.  Best I can guess is that they use an extremely high silica or manganese content in the aluminum.


----------



## Supe

Porsche motor is now sitting in the engine bay.  I ended up knocking the timing belts out Saturday morning - what a shit-show.  The timing gear on the crank had damned near 1/4" of play in it.  Someone had replaced the belts and water pump previously, and in doing so, had the gear misaligned and tried to hammer it home over the woodruff key.  Porsche went to a long slotted keyway in 84 and later for this problem, but the 83, which this motor is, still used the much smaller crescent style key.  I ended up buying an oversized 3/16" key, hand filing it down in the dark during a power outage, and swapping the gear from the blown up motor over.  Sucker is now tight with no play, so fingers crossed that it stays that way.  I was one step away from busting out the JB weld.  Going to start bolting all the ancillary shit back up on Wednesday, and hopefully have the car running again on Saturday.


----------



## snickerd3

wednesday is going to be an expensive car day...oil change, spark plugs, transmission and transfer fluid changes, timing belt replacement, and differential fluid change.


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> wednesday is going to be an expensive car day...oil change, spark plugs, transmission and transfer fluid changes, timing belt replacement, and differential fluid change.


Isn't your car newer? :huh:


----------



## csb

This reminds me- I need to grease my bike chain.


----------



## FLBuff PE

Make sure you use the right lube.


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> Isn't your car newer? :huh:


it's a 2012 but I have almost 110,000 miles on it.  all the preventative maintenance, so i don't end up on the side of the road in the middle of corn fields.


----------



## matt267 PE

snickerd3 said:


> all the preventative maintenance, so i don't end up on the side of the road in the middle of corn fields.


smart move.


----------



## csb

FLBuff PE said:


> Make sure you use the right lube.








I use the King.


----------



## FLBuff PE

It's good to be the King.


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

Question for everyone: So, how long do you typically keep your vehicle?

I'm wondering if it's time to start looking for vehicles. My car is 11 years old...spouse's vehicle is 10 years old. Lately there have been little issues popping up, needing them to be in the shop, averaging $200-250 each time. I always said that we would keep our vehicles until something major breaks, and it costs more to fix than the vehicle is worth. Now, with all the recent issues from aging vehicles, I'm not sure if we should just start looking to get new rides.

My inner kid says, new vehicles will be fun! My adult mind says, I don't want car notes.


----------



## MA_PE

I keep mine too long,  It's '99 but it's only got 136k miles.  It runs well and I keep justifying repairs as "one more year without any payments".  I should retire it but heck, it's still running well.


----------



## Supe

My problem is that I replace vehicles... but never get rid of the old ones.  My Saturn is driving me nuts since everything in it shakes/rattles, but it's been mechanically sound for the most part.  8 years old, coming up on 90K or so.  Fuel filler neck (replaced under warranty, had a recall for it and was modified), brakes (bad e-brake cable design, gets fouled up and freezes), throttle pedal (twice, drive by wire craps out.  REALLY dangerous, goes from "limp" mode where second half of pedal is all that works up to half throttle, then all of a sudden decides to start working and now you're at WOT.  Really fun with a manual trans in stop and go traffic...), and spark plugs have been the only mechanical issues to date.  Also has a dead TPMS in one of the wheels, but IDGAF about those.


----------



## Supe

I should note that I plan to retire it from DD duty when it hits 100k or so, and either convert to race car or keep as a beater.  It's due up for a timing belt change at 105k, which if I have done, will cost 1/4-1/2 of what the damned car is worth.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Get a new one. You can't take it with you??[emoji594][emoji594][emoji594]


----------



## Road Guy

Everyone should watch this commercial, and then go buy one and well all meet up in Moab in the fall

&amp; not the silly looking renegade thing....


----------



## MetsFan

SNAPE/SMOTT PE said:


> Question for everyone: So, how long do you typically keep your vehicle?
> 
> I'm wondering if it's time to start looking for vehicles. My car is 11 years old...spouse's vehicle is 10 years old. Lately there have been little issues popping up, needing them to be in the shop, averaging $200-250 each time. I always said that we would keep our vehicles until something major breaks, and it costs more to fix than the vehicle is worth. Now, with all the recent issues from aging vehicles, I'm not sure if we should just start looking to get new rides.
> 
> My inner kid says, new vehicles will be fun! My adult mind says, I don't want car notes.


10 years has been our limit so far.  We had a 2002 Jetta that my wife bought new and only got rid of it because we needed a bigger car after we had a kid.  It also had 110K miles and started developing some small issues so we figured it was time.  She upgraded to a 2011 Touareg, which we bought new in 2012.  We plan to keep it at least 10 years.

I bought my first car in 2007, a used '97 Civic.  I might have kept it longer, but it had no AC, which made it not so fun during the summers.  It also needed a few repairs that made it not worth keeping.  I sold it in 2009 for a 2007 BMW 328, which I'm sure you've read my complaints about it here.  I had it for 7 years before upgrading to my '13 G37.  I'm also hoping to keep this one at least 10 years.


----------



## csb

SNAPE/SMOTT PE said:


> Question for everyone: So, how long do you typically keep your vehicle?
> 
> I'm wondering if it's time to start looking for vehicles. My car is 11 years old...spouse's vehicle is 10 years old. Lately there have been little issues popping up, needing them to be in the shop, averaging $200-250 each time. I always said that we would keep our vehicles until something major breaks, and it costs more to fix than the vehicle is worth. Now, with all the recent issues from aging vehicles, I'm not sure if we should just start looking to get new rides.
> 
> My inner kid says, new vehicles will be fun! My adult mind says, I don't want car notes.


This reminds me...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I just paid off the Camaro yesterday.  Bought it new in 2010 and now has 74k miles on it. I have no intention of getting rid of it anytime soon.

Wife drives a 2008 Jeep Commander with 175k miles on it. We plan on getting rid of it when we move to NZ at the end of the month. It will probably just go to the in-laws since they need a winter vehicle.


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

Kind of looking at a jeep, from afar. I hate those suv things that carry the jeep name. If it's called a jeep, it needs to be a jeep, dang it!


----------



## Road Guy

bless your heart


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

I am assuming that since your not from, nor live in Texas, you do not know that the statement you made is an insult to someone?


----------



## MA_PE

I'm from New England....Why is "Bless your heart" an insult?


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

MA_PE said:


> I'm from New England....Why is "Bless your heart" an insult?


"[COLOR= rgb(44, 53, 60)]This is a term used by the people of the southern United States particularly near the Gulf of Mexico to express to someone [/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(44, 53, 60)]that[/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(44, 53, 60)] they are an idiot without saying such harsh words."[/COLOR]


----------



## snickerd3

SNAPE/SMOTT PE said:


> "[COLOR= rgb(44, 53, 60)]This is a term used by the people of the southern United States particularly near the Gulf of Mexico to express to someone [/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(44, 53, 60)]that[/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(44, 53, 60)] they are an idiot without saying such harsh words."[/COLOR]


even in IL this is what I grew up with that phrase meaning...except it was "Why blessed your little heart"


----------



## MA_PE

Learn something new everyday. 

Seems to follow the old adage "if you can't say something nice then don't say anything at all". 

So I guess it's another distortion of a compliment into a phrase that offends people.  It truly is a full-time job trying to keep up with the PC police so as not to offend anyone.


----------



## FLBuff PE

I'm sure RG knows that, but I believe he meant it sincerely.

I am in the same boat as you, SNAPE/SMOTT. My current ride is a 2001 Chevy (S-10) Blazer, with ~125k on it. I am also getting dinged with all the "minor" repairs, which are adding up, and I'm sick of it. I drive a company Tacoma during the week, so I am thinking about going the lease route. Payments will be lower, and I won't put more than 10k miles per year on the leased vehicle. Then I'll re-evaluate in three years when it is time to turn in the lease vehicle.


----------



## MA_PE

I believe if RG wanted to convey that he thinks someone is an idiot...he'd say "You're an idiot, and I mean that in the nicest way possible.""


----------



## Road Guy

in the "real" south, we use the term "Bless your Heart" when directed to a fellow southerner as a sincere statement, but when said to a yankee it is meant as an insult.

So my intent was the sincere variety !!  Even though Texas doesn't qualify as "the south" I was extending the courtesy to you...


----------



## FLBuff PE

Road Guy said:


> in the "real" south, we use the term "Bless your Heart" when directed to a fellow southerner as a sincere statement, but when said to a yankee it is meant as an insult.
> 
> So my intent was the sincere variety !!  Even though Texas doesn't qualify as "the south" I was extending the courtesy to you...


opcorn:  Them's fightin' words!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

But you're in CO now...


----------



## Road Guy

don't tread on me


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> don't tread on me


Which is the state motto of New Hampshire......


----------



## Road Guy

but the one we use is yellow and not pink


----------



## FLBuff PE

So I think what we can conclude is that RG is geographically challenged.


----------



## Road Guy

I should not have spent that week in Florida either    I don't know where I want to live.. But in all places a Jeep is the best vehicle for me


----------



## MetsFan

I always though Bless your heart was an insult too.  Maybe I've had southerners say that to me sarcastically, lol.  I asked my wife who's from TX and she said she wouldn't take it that way at all.


----------



## Road Guy

keep the south beautiful put a Yankee on a bus


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

Well, thanks!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's all about the context. 

"That sounds like a great idea!" in my office is an insult.


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

MetsFan said:


> I always though Bless your heart was an insult too.  Maybe I've had southerners say that to me sarcastically, lol.  I asked my wife who's from TX and she said she wouldn't take it that way at all.


Oh. Hmm, maybe it's because I'm not from Texas. I'll have to ask my Texas born friends and co-workers.


----------



## matt267 PE

I'm not much of a Yankee's fan either. I'm from Red Sox's nation.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The rest of the country calls those "Mass-holes"


----------



## Supe

Here in the Carolinas, they frequently shorten to just "bless it".


----------



## MA_PE

Dexman PE PMP said:


> The rest of the country calls those "Mass-holes"


well, bless your heart.


----------



## matt267 PE

Dexman PE PMP said:


> The rest of the country calls those "Mass-holes"


But I'm in the armpit of Mass.


----------



## knight1fox3

Anywhere from 5-7 years.  Or the 200k mile mark.  But we changes up our philosophy and started buying the higher reliability vehicles.


----------



## mudpuppy

I've had my 2006 Aveo for almost 10 years.  The only things I've had to do to it are replace the windshield wiper motor (which I think it needs to be replaced again (bad design)) and the left taillight wiring harness.  I plan to keep it until it doesn't go any more.

I've had my '97 Cherokee for about 4 years and have not had to do anything to it outside of normal maintenance (including replacing the battery, which I've never done on the Aveo).  I may eventually sell it back to my dad when we move out of the city because I want a pickup.

Prior to that I had my '96 Bronco for about 8 years (2004-2012).  It was costing me way too much in repairs.


----------



## snickerd3

ugh...got the estimate for the 100K tune up.  ~$1500


----------



## SNAPE/SMOTT PE

snickerd3 said:


> ugh...got the estimate for the 100K tune up.  ~$1500


Time to go shopping!


----------



## snickerd3

it's just routine maintance...better to replace when starting to show signs of wear then for the timing belt or water pump to break while I'm out in the middle of nowhere...hr commute through farm country.


----------



## Road Guy

Probably half the stuff on that list you don't really have to do


----------



## MA_PE

depending on the vehicle the timing belt/water pump can be ~$1000+ at a shop because you pretty much have to take everything off of the block to get at it.

Also if it's an intereference motor and the belt goes....the motor is toast.


----------



## snickerd3

its not a very long list...it is the stupid labor.   What MA said


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> its not a very long list...it is the stupid labor.


Even so, I wouldn't be dropping that kind of cash on something that isn't clearly displaying trouble.


----------



## knight1fox3

Oh, and I NEED to get these:  http://www.gohippoz.com/products/2-wireless-car-door-led-laser-batman-shadow-light


----------



## snickerd3

does anyone have the feature in their car that will remember your seat setting...so it will reset to yours after someone else drives it.  not sure what it is officially called, but was wondering how people liked it.  It annoys the crap out of me when mr snick adjusts my seat after I found that super comfy combo, then I have to spend time to try to find the spot again


----------



## Road Guy

I have it on the Tahoe - it works well because my kid drives it during the week to school and when I need it on the weekends I can just reset it..


----------



## Supe

They seem to work OK.  A lot of them will auto-detect for primary drivers based on weight now.


----------



## MetsFan

snickerd3 said:


> it's just routine maintance...better to replace when starting to show signs of wear then for the timing belt or water pump to break while I'm out in the middle of nowhere...hr commute through farm country.


Have you had the timing belt or water pump done before?  100K seems like a long time to go with the original one.  The one in my bimmer went at around 65K and left me stranded an hour from home.  



snickerd3 said:


> does anyone have the feature in their car that will remember your seat setting...so it will reset to yours after someone else drives it.  not sure what it is officially called, but was wondering how people liked it.  It annoys the crap out of me when mr snick adjusts my seat after I found that super comfy combo, then I have to spend time to try to find the spot again


Memory seats.  The Touareg seats go by the key you use to unlock the car, so it will automatically switch to my preset if I unlock the car or her preset if she unlocks it.


----------



## snickerd3

MetsFan said:


> Have you had the timing belt or water pump done before?  100K seems like a long time to go with the original one.  The one in my bimmer went at around 65K and left me stranded an hour from home.
> 
> Memory seats.  The Touareg seats go by the key you use to unlock the car, so it will automatically switch to my preset if I unlock the car or her preset if she unlocks it.


honda's recommended timeframe for my car is 100k-105k mile mark for them both.   my last couple cars had timing chains

memory seats...that makes sense.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

My old Jetta had the same memory seats that Mets described. 

The Camaro doesn't have them, but then again, I don't let anyone else drive it.


----------



## mudpuppy

knight1fox3 said:


> Even so, I wouldn't be dropping that kind of cash on something that isn't clearly displaying trouble.




Yeah, it would be nice to have a indication of when the timing belt fails, but if you take the gamble and lose, you're paying for a whole new engine.

This has reminded me I'm overdue on the timing belt for the Aveo.  Calling the shop right now.


----------



## knight1fox3

MetsFan said:


> Have you had the timing belt or water pump done before?  100K seems like a long time to go with the original one.  The one in my bimmer went at around 65K and left me stranded an hour from home.


Just shy of 150k on the Infiniti and still have the original timing belt. :thumbs:


----------



## envirotex

Same on the Volvo...it's the computer stuff that's starting to act up...That and the American-made/designed parts...


----------



## Road Guy

one thing I hate about CO, this is about the 4th windshield I have replaced since moving here, not sure why the state cant keep the fucking rocks off the road!


----------



## Road Guy

oh and that John Denver is full of shit man..


----------



## MetsFan

knight1fox3 said:


> Just shy of 150k on the Infiniti and still have the original timing belt. :thumbs:


I thought they used a chain?


----------



## knight1fox3

I don't know for sure.  But either way, it hasn't been replaced.


----------



## MetsFan

knight1fox3 said:


> I don't know for sure.  But either way, it hasn't been replaced.


Looks like it's a chain.  Those should be good for the life of the engine.


----------



## Road Guy

I thought if your timing belt or chain broke your engine would just stop running I didn't think it would actually break?

Mine Broke in a 1984 ford ranger once and I just sort of came to a stop and had to get the chain replaced


----------



## knight1fox3

MetsFan said:


> Looks like it's a chain.  Those should be good for the life of the engine.


Another +10 for Infiniti.  Which coincides with the make of the car.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I thought if your timing belt or chain broke your engine would just stop running I didn't think it would actually break?
> 
> Mine Broke in a 1984 ford ranger once and I just sort of came to a stop and had to get the chain replaced


Depends if its an interference fit motor or not.  If it is, you're going to bend a bunch of valves.


----------



## mudpuppy

^Yeah, and my Aveo has an interference motor.  $658 to replace the belt, along with the water pump.  Apparently the water pump is run off the timing belt?

Not too bad considering it's the only major service I've had to do in 10 years, and hopepfully will last another 10.


----------



## Road Guy

looks like it more common on smaller engines?

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/List_Of_Interference_Engines


----------



## MA_PE

I believe that in general smaller engines have a belt as opposed to a chain.  I don't know for sure, but I suspect that it's the older designs that are interference as it's a pretty poor design choice to have the integrity of the engine depend on a rubber belt.


----------



## MA_PE

mudpuppy said:


> ^Yeah, and my Aveo has an interference motor.  $658 to replace the belt, along with the water pump.  *Apparently the water pump is run off the timing belt?*
> 
> Not too bad considering it's the only major service I've had to do in 10 years, and hopepfully will last another 10.


Not likely.  I know with my old Mazda the water puump impeller was plastic and had a finite life.  It sits in very close proximity to the timing belt so it's best to replace them both at the same time when everything is disassembled than to do them independently and have to tear everything apart twice.


----------



## mudpuppy

MA_PE said:


> Not likely.  I know with my old Mazda the water puump impeller was plastic and had a finite life.  It sits in very close proximity to the timing belt so it's best to replace them both at the same time when everything is disassembled than to do them independently and have to tear everything apart twice.




Here's a picture.  I believe the gear on the lower left is the water pump.


----------



## Supe

^^^ Yep.  My Porsche setup isn't that far off, but uses the backside of the timing belt to drive the pump instead.

MA - There are a surprising number of small, interference fit motors out there.  It has largely to due with getting as much power/efficiency out of a small engine as possible.  Higher compression and variable valve timing often have a lot to do with it, and clearances in that chamber get awfully tight.  More often than not, if they want the motor to have a small footprint, they will use a belt, since it makes packaging the water pump and accessory drives easier.  They can also help valve train life by damping some of the engine harmonics.


----------



## MA_PE

Thanks.  I guess that makes sense but I still maintain that trusting the life of the motor to a belt is not a sound engineering decision.  Kinda like suspending tunnel ceiling panels over a very busy roadway using only a epoxy adhesive anchors.  Can you say Big Dig?


----------



## Supe

I'm not a fan of the belts , but it's not as though timing chains have never jumped a tooth, either.


----------



## Road Guy

This is why we went into engineering to make fatty money so when timing belt/chain goes bad or instead of getting an oil change we just go buy a new car.


----------



## knight1fox3

Saw this on my walk today. LOL







Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## Supe

@Lumber Jim's new ride?


----------



## Lumber Jim

Supe said:


> @Lumber Jim's new ride?


Na, that bumper wouldn't calculate per DOT.


----------



## Supe

Got the Porsche running yesterday.  Confirmed previous suspicion - royally f'd up cam/cam housing was the culprit.  Fired right up no issue this time (once the coil wire was connected, that is *ahem*).  Whether it moves under its own power remains to be seen.  Need to throw some gas in it and let it idle a while one night this week.  I forgot to connect the fan thermostat wires, so I need to make sure they'll kick on.


----------



## Supe

I also went to the NASCAR all-star race on Saturday.  Unfortunately qualifying got rained out, which is a shame, because the three laps + no speed limit pit stops is probably the best part to watch.  Had killer seats though, 15 rows up, just left of the start/finish line.  Got a good view of Tony Stewart's wreck - he slid to a stop just about right in front of us.  Stunk that my two most hated drivers finished 1-2, though.  Was really hoping Kyle Larson would pull it off.


----------



## Supe

Had the Porsche buttoned up.  Was letting it idle to see when the fans would kick in, then gurgle gurgle out the water neck.  Ruh roh.  Temperature got hot after the fans didn't kick on.  Turns out male spade was wedged between connector and jacket, not into the connector itself.  Fixed that, and fans came on no problem.  Whoops.  Guess I'll redo the water neck tomorrow night or Saturday morning, then cross my fingers and head to CMP on Monday for the next race.  Probably get my ass whooped, but fun just the same.


----------



## Supe

Well, the new old motor smokes like a banshee but runs just fine.  It's down on power compared to the old motor (worn rings), but was reliable and still pulled pretty good up to about 5000 RPM.  Put in a screamer lap after the rain hit after gapping myself from the lap traffic, and eeked out a .005s margin of victory for my class!


----------



## Supe

Double bonus!  Found out my time from Monday is also the class record!  :woot:


----------



## MA_PE

nice!  by 5 milliseconds.  Now you have a new target to beat.


----------



## Supe

And the car isn't even dialed in yet.  Needs a more aggressive alignment (I'm rolling the tire shoulder, needs more negative camber and some toe out), and it's still 200 lbs over the class minimum weight!


----------



## knight1fox3

Awesome.  Turning into my subdivision on the bike last week and it just completely shut off.  No lights, no instruments, just completely dead.  Nothing would turn back on or allow me to restart it.  I leaned over to inspect anything out of the ordinary and could smell that familiar "magic smoke" smell.  That was a hell of a workout to push it the rest of the way home.  Based on what I've read thus far, I think it's related to the regulator/rectifier for the alternator.  And might have also fried the stator.  I'll have to pull it apart to confirm but based on common failures for this year bike, that seems to be the likely suspect (and also probably why I detected the electrical smell).  Another project for the to-do list.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Lunched a voltage regulator on my first Harley and had pretty much the same thing happen.  The good news for me was that I noticed the lights getting dimmer and got it into the driveway before it died.


----------



## knight1fox3

@Flyer_PE, think I found part of the problem. Is it salvageable?  LOL  I think I'm lucky the damn thing didn't start on fire!






Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## Supe

Nah, keep looking.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Looks like all the magic smoke is gone from that one.

I think you definitely found A problem.  Whether or not it's THE problem won't be known until you put in a new one and see what happens when you hit the switch.


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> @Flyer_PE, think I found part of the problem. Is it salvageable?  LOL  I think I'm lucky the damn thing didn't start on fire!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


a fire between ones legs is never a good thing.  Where exactly on the bike is that located..


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> Looks like all the magic smoke is gone from that one.
> 
> I think you definitely found A problem.  Whether or not it's THE problem won't be known until you put in a new one and see what happens when you hit the switch.


So you're saying there's no way to put the smoke back in? :huh:   LOL

Ya I'm hoping the stator coil survived the incident.  Definitely A problem, and will confirm if it's in fact THE problem.  Found a replacement kit that utilizes MOSFETs for $129 on Amazon.  I might try relocating the assembly too as Suzuki thought it would be a good idea to locate this on the exhaust side of the radiator.  So naturally it's going to be hotter than normal.  &lt;SMH&gt;


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> a fire between ones legs is never a good thing.  Where exactly on the bike is that located..


By the front left fairing assembly.  And for whatever reason, on the exhaust side of the radiator.   :screwloose:


----------



## Flyer_PE

That's the problem with any electronic device.  Once the magic smoke gets out, there's no replacing it.

The exhaust side of the radiator isn't an ideal location for a heat sensitive component.  Probably wound up there in order to keep it out of sight.  Different design philosophies between sport bikes and cruisers.  On a sport bike, it's all about clean looks and aerodynamics.  Harley just chromes the bastard and  hangs it on the front of the frame.


----------



## jeb6294

snickerd3 said:


> a fire between ones legs is never a good thing.  Where exactly on the bike is that located..


Keep in mind that a motorcycle is little more than a 220 degree engine trying to contain exploding gasoline 3 inches from your crotch.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

So, I placed an order for a Tesla Model S60D today.  I was going to hold off until the Model 3 came out next year.  My company threw a building grand-opening party last Saturday, and our CEO arranged for Tesla to send some cars for test drives before the party.  I test drove one, and spent well over half of the party talking to the sales reps.  By the time I left, I was pretty sure I was going to buy one.

The cars they had to test drive were Model P90D's (which start at $110K) with Ludicrous Mode ($10K upgrade) that do zero to sixty in 2.7 seconds.  Obviously I wasn't going to buy one of those, so I arranged for a test drive of a more reasonably spec'd car today (the nearest Tesla Store is in Cincinnati, so this is no small feat).  After the test drive, I put down my deposit and placed my order.  In 6 to 8 weeks, it will be mine.

Currently taking suggestions for a name...


----------



## Road Guy

1%

'er


----------



## P-E

The millennial Falcon


----------



## MA_PE

the Electric Boogie


----------



## knight1fox3

wilheldp_PE said:


> So, I placed an order for a Tesla Model S60D today.  I was going to hold off until the Model 3 came out next year.  My company threw a building grand-opening party last Saturday, and our CEO arranged for Tesla to send some cars for test drives before the party.  I test drove one, and spent well over half of the party talking to the sales reps.  By the time I left, I was pretty sure I was going to buy one.
> 
> The cars they had to test drive were Model P90D's (which start at $110K) with Ludicrous Mode ($10K upgrade) that do zero to sixty in 2.7 seconds.  Obviously I wasn't going to buy one of those, so I arranged for a test drive of a more reasonably spec'd car today (the nearest Tesla Store is in Cincinnati, so this is no small feat).  After the test drive, I put down my deposit and placed my order.  In 6 to 8 weeks, it will be mine.
> 
> Currently taking suggestions for a name...


So roughly what is the starting price of the Tesla Model S60D?  I've seen a few on the hwy in my area.  They look really sharp!  I assume you have to find a charging station somewhere then?


----------



## wilheldp_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> So roughly what is the starting price of the Tesla Model S60D?  I've seen a few on the hwy in my area.  They look really sharp!  I assume you have to find a charging station somewhere then?


Base is $66k, mine was about $11k more, but there are tax credits to offset some of that.  

I am in the process of installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage to charge it.


----------



## knight1fox3

wilheldp_PE said:


> Base is $66k, mine was about $11k more, but there are tax credits to offset some of that.
> 
> I am in the process of installing a NEMA 14-50 outlet in my garage to charge it.


Damn. That's similar in price to a rather new Corvette.  And I think even more than @mudpuppy's house! :lmao:

As for the charging, you didn't want to install one of the super charger variety? :dunno:




I would really like to test-drive one just to see if there's any noticeable difference in functionality vs. a conventional combustion engine type vehicle.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

The interior is nicer in the Tesla than the Corvette. 

You can't buy a Supercharger for home...nor would you want to. 360 VDC at 400 amps is a bit much. You can buy a wall charger and wire it with a 100 amp, 240v breaker, but you have to upgrade the car to take advantage of it.  The 50 amp 240v charger gives me a full charge in 6 hours which is good enough, and there is a Supercharger location in Louisville if I need it. 

The biggest difference is the acceleration. You have 100% of the torque through the entire acceleration curve. It's just like one of those linear accelerator roller coasters.


----------



## knight1fox3

Interesting.  So similar to that of a 0% speed and 100% torque induction motor application (i.e. over-head hoist).


----------



## mudpuppy

That's correct. . . approximately 150% of the value of my house.  That will change once we can get Mrs. mudpuppy's house sold though.


----------



## Road Guy

I never saw one In Atlanta until I moved here and there almost like the damn subaru's ... Everywhere....






They are not my cup of tea but vehicle choice is very personalized! Hope you like it!!!


----------



## wilheldp_PE

The body style looks good, but not too flashy for my tastes.  The interior is absolutely amazing.

BTW, I am no longer taking suggestions for names...one of my college friends won the internet today.  My Tesla will be known as "Edison."


----------



## MA_PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> My Tesla will be known as "Edison."


I'll bet two bodies are spinning in their graves over that one!


----------



## mudpuppy

wilheldp_PE said:


> My Tesla will be known as "Edison."




Dude, that's just wrong!  It is ironically fitting, though, since the car runs on DC.


----------



## Supe

F*ck this f*cking f*ck of a car.  This f*cking Astra is giving me the failed bearing of death noise from the engine bay, along with a service engine/battery light.  Who wants to bet the $500 I paid for a f*cking alternator replacement has crapped out after a few months of driving?

I think the time to look for a car has finally arrived.  I can't trust this POS anymore.  Thinking of going to look at the Focus ST this weekend.  Quick enough, manual trans, great handling, 4 doors, and room for the dogs.


----------



## Road Guy

Friends don't let friends drive a Ford focus


----------



## Supe

I can't justify a $50K Focus RS, because at the end of the day, it's still a Focus.

But 250+ HP for about $22K with all the dealer incentives right now?  Hmm.  And there aren't too many cars out there that can pull nearly a full lateral G on the 235 street tire.  They're pretty popular amongst my fellow SCCA crowd.  I just can't find an alternative family hauler that I find acceptable, so I'm leaning towards the cheap and easy option.


----------



## willsee

wilheldp_PE said:


> So, I placed an order for a Tesla Model S60D today.  I was going to hold off until the Model 3 came out next year.  My company threw a building grand-opening party last Saturday, and our CEO arranged for Tesla to send some cars for test drives before the party.  I test drove one, and spent well over half of the party talking to the sales reps.  By the time I left, I was pretty sure I was going to buy one.
> 
> The cars they had to test drive were Model P90D's (which start at $110K) with Ludicrous Mode ($10K upgrade) that do zero to sixty in 2.7 seconds.  Obviously I wasn't going to buy one of those, so I arranged for a test drive of a more reasonably spec'd car today (the nearest Tesla Store is in Cincinnati, so this is no small feat).  After the test drive, I put down my deposit and placed my order.  In 6 to 8 weeks, it will be mine.
> 
> Currently taking suggestions for a name...


Jelly


----------



## MA_PE

I took my DD Buick in for inspection recently and they noted some wobble in the front end.  I use a local repair shop (that I've used for several decades and my parents used them before that).  Local inspection station said they'd fail me but becasue I use the local mechanic he's pass me but I needed to have it checked out ASAP.  The shop said it was a tie rod end....$187.  Ok.  Not two weeks later the car sounds like crap (exhaust leak?)  I leave it with the shop...new exhaust $550.

When my son stopped using the '09 Chevy Cobalt, he drops it in the driveway with the CEL on, needs an inspection sticker, shifts like carp (manual and shifter not going to 3rd easily), windshield washers not working....    He doesn't want/need it anymore so I want to sell it.  Leave it at the shop to fix all this little BS.....$530.  The Cobalt's keyless remotes don't work.  I bought replacements online but everything says you neeed to take it to the dealer to program them.  My shop says they can program them for me.  When I pick up the Buick on Friday, I leave the Cobalt to program the remotes.  Everything is hunky dory.

Go to move the Cobalt on Sunday and it's dead as a door nail.  It was fine when I got the remotes programmed.  WTF?!?  It was behaving like it had a dead battery.  We tried to jump it but it was really dead,  I disconnect and charge the battery overnight.  Starts up just fine this morning. 

The only thing that I can think of is that when you lock the doors using the remote, It activates the security system.  I think the security system drained the battery completely.  May be a weak battery to start with.  I believe it's original.   Now I don't know how many "systems" need to be "reset" because the battery was disconnected.  What a PITA.  I hate cars.


----------



## MetsFan

I like the Focus ST on paper.  I haven't test driven it, but I've heard good things.

My parents drove their new (to them) 2003 Corolla up to MA for the weekend.  Yesterday, I thought I'd spend some time with my dad cleaning it up.  We fixed the cloudy headlights, removed some of the minor paint defects, painted the faded grille back to black, and washed and waxed the car.   While I was waxing it, I placed the tube cap on the top lip of the trunk where it meets the rear window.  My dad didn't realize the cap was there and went to grab something out of the trunk.  All of a sudden I hear a big BANG and I rush over to where he's standing.  As he was closing it, the stupid plastic cap got caught on the edge of the rear window and did just enough damage to shatter the entire window.  F.... I called up Safelite, but all the glass shops are closed on Sundays.  We ran to the store to get some tape and went to town taping it all up since they had to drive back to NYC.  I felt terrible for the rest of the day.


----------



## MA_PE

MF;  That completely sucks.  I hope they made it back to NYC ok.


----------



## Road Guy

I see a lot of the Focus / out here, they seem to be another option for people that don't want to drive something called "Subaru"

Yesterday drove up to the mountains, top &amp; doors off the jeep (but thank god my bimini top came in) 75 degrees in the mtns, but was a scorcher in the city, raced some dudes in Audi's up Berthoud Pass (mtn pass around 11,500) they lost mainly due to their lack of testicles around the curves &amp; oncoming traffic.  then found some decent forest service roads to go mudding on, but alas still heavy snow pack up top so had to turn around at 10K feet..  Cant really imagine a better vehicle for living out here..

&amp; is it me or is it when you buy a new car the miles tick by faster the first year?


----------



## MetsFan

MA_PE said:


> MF;  That completely sucks.  I hope they made it back to NYC ok.


They did, luckily. My mom was all paranoid that they would get pulled over and fined for driving with a busted window, but they made it back with no issues.


----------



## Road Guy

MA- I think someone could make a fortune if they came up with a way for us to self program those key fobs and other shit..(radios, etc)  You would think by now they would make an adaptor for the cars so we could hook our phones to them and program all that jazz..

my wifes car (Toyota) has only one key and its gonna cost us $350 to get another F'n key made one day..


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> MA- I think someone could make a fortune if they came up with a way for us to self program those key fobs and other shit..(radios, etc)  You would think by now they would make an adaptor for the cars so we could hook our phones to them and program all that jazz..
> 
> my wifes car (Toyota) has only one key and its gonna cost us $350 to get another F'n key made one day..


There seem to be plenty of hacks to program. The guys that sell the remotes provide DIY instructions (if there are any).  I was able to program the fob for my old buick myself.  I think the Cobalt needs a device that plugs intot he OBDII port to program.  This little Cobalt has two fuse boxes and ironically, provides remote terminals for jump starting the car under the hood but the battery is in the trunk.  Thank god for the internet as a resource to find these simple instructions.  Dealers won't tell you sh&amp;t except to bring it in for service $$$$$$.

with the wireless/bluetooth connections in the newer cars all manufactures should have a free app to allow all the features from your smart phone and do away with fobs.


----------



## Road Guy

I bought a fob for the Tahoe (2002) from Advanced Auto parts and ended up taking it back- the instructions consisted of " press on brake 3 times, then turn ignition key 7 times, turn the lights on and off, etc"  I spent several hours and just gave up eventually..


----------



## MA_PE

It's so much easier of you have an original fob for that particular vehicle in order to get a replacement.  I search online for the exact model number on the back of the fob.  for my buick I needed to jump two terminals on the OBDII connector to get into learn mode and then press the lock buttons a few times.  It went pretty easily.


----------



## Road Guy

I will try that, I still have the original working fob, I just wanted another one since my kid is driving the Tahoe I cant ever find where he keeps his keys and the copy I have doesn't have the fob, so when I unlock the door the alarm goes off, have to turn the ignition to stop the alarm, annoying..


----------



## Supe

F*ck this car.  $700 to replace the damned alternator.  $300-ish labor (same price as before, you have to drop the suspension to fish the alternator out), and $400+ for an OEM alternator since I won't put another f*cking bitch-ass Bosch reman back in there.


----------



## Road Guy

so I had to look up what an Astra is, I assume that is some type of "ricer"?

&lt;&lt;insert Rodney Dangerfield "no offense" image here&gt;&gt;


----------



## Dleg

I picked up a used 2012 Subaru Forester yesterday from a coworker.  It's in great shape, just 29000 miles, and comes with a full set of Blizzak (spelling?) snow tires mounted on rims.  I resisted the Subaru cult for a while, but it just makes good sense in this climate and turns out it's pretty fun to drive.  This one has a manual transmission, and as a result I made it to work a few minutes quicker today, compared to the 2016 4Runner, which feels sort of sluggish with its automatic transmission.


----------



## Road Guy

the forester is like, ughh, the "most ghey" of all the subarus


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> I will try that, I still have the original working fob, I just wanted another one since my kid is driving the Tahoe I cant ever find where he keeps his keys and the copy I have doesn't have the fob, so when I unlock the door the alarm goes off, have to turn the ignition to stop the alarm, annoying..


FWIW I bought replacements for the Buick on ebay.  2 remotes for $30.  I think I just googled Cobalt one and got a website for a busines that primarily deals with remotes.  I got 2 for $40.  All were brand new and looked exactly like the OEM one.  I use it all the time to lock/unlock so I hate being without it.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> so I had to look up what an Astra is, I assume that is some type of "ricer"?
> 
> &lt;&lt;insert Rodney Dangerfield "no offense" image here&gt;&gt;


It was only around for one model year in the US.  It was the top selling hatch in Europe as either the Opel Astra or Vauxhall Astra.  They got the cool ones.  We got the gutless version with the stripped down entertainment center, and no aux input so GM could put their fancy On-Star mirror in it instead.  It's only pros are that it was good looking at the time, handles very well, and was relatively cheap.  Everything else, though...


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

My wife hated her Focus.






But it did sacrifice itself for her.


----------



## Supe

What did she hate about it?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Supe said:


> What did she hate about it?


The tranny.

Hers was auto with no torque converter and she said it was just not right. We bought it new and the had to replace the automatic clutch?? Drive belt? The car shuttered sometimes. The dealer said to drive it like you stole it and that would fix it.

Some lady ran a red light and totaled the car. Our uninsured motorists had to pay because her boyfriend had Geico insurance and they don't pay if you are not named on policy.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Road Guy said:


> the forester is like, ughh, the "most ghey" of all the subarus [emoji6]


My sister has one of those, but she is a girl, so I guess it is okay??


----------



## Road Guy

does she have a buzzcut hairstyle?


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Road Guy said:


> does she have a buzzcut hairstyle?


She is a RN in Orlando and she has long brown hair. I am taking her fishing a couple years ago.


----------



## Supe

Ship Wreck PE said:


> The tranny.
> 
> Hers was auto with no torque converter and she said it was just not right. We bought it new and the had to replace the automatic clutch?? Drive belt? The car shuttered sometimes. The dealer said to drive it like you stole it and that would fix it.
> 
> Some lady ran a red light and totaled the car. Our uninsured motorists had to pay because her boyfriend had Geico insurance and they don't pay if you are not named on policy.


Well there's your problem.  Ford slushbox.


----------



## MA_PE

GM Astra.  I had it confused with this Astr*e *from a few years back (ok, maybe it was ~40 years back)


----------



## NYCProjectEngineer PE PMP

Ship Wreck PE said:


> My wife hated her Focus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it did sacrifice itself for her.


Steeda Mustang police cruiser?!


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

NYCProjectEngineer PE PMP said:


> 1 hour ago, Ship Wreck PE said: My wife hated her Focus.
> 
> 
> 
> But it did sacrifice itself for her.
> 
> 
> 
> Steeda Mustang police cruiser?!
Click to expand...

Yes

That's what they drive in Ga.


----------



## MA_PE

Is that Catoosa County?  The sherrif (J.D Stewart) equipped his men with these.

http://www.sspcentral.com/pontiac/catoosa-county-sheriff-trans-am.shtml


----------



## matt267 PE

Ship Wreck PE said:


> The tranny.


Was his name "Candy?"


----------



## Road Guy

Catoosa County is further north

GA


----------



## jeb6294

wilheldp_PE said:


> the nearest Tesla Store is in Cincinnati


Just holler when it's ready and I can pick it up and run it down for you.  With all the traffic and construction it could take me a couple days to get from Cincy to Louisville though...


----------



## knight1fox3

wilheldp_PE said:


> The body style looks good, but not too flashy for my tastes.  The interior is absolutely amazing.


Another question, what does the recommended maintenance schedule look like on a Tesla vehicle?  And when service is required, does it need to be performed at a Tesla dealer or some type of Tesla-authorized service center?  I would tend to think that could also get pricey.


----------



## Road Guy

If you have to ask you can't afford it!


----------



## mudpuppy

knight1fox3 said:


> Another question, what does the recommended maintenance schedule look like on a Tesla vehicle?  And when service is required, does it need to be performed at a Tesla dealer or some type of Tesla-authorized service center?  I would tend to think that could also get pricey.




Tesla doesn't have dealerships, they have stores.  Subtle difference but it's been a big deal here in Michigan.


----------



## snickerd3

what's the difference ?


----------



## Road Guy

is there much to service if its all eclectic? no oil changes or anything?  do they even have a radiator?


----------



## wilheldp_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Another question, what does the recommended maintenance schedule look like on a Tesla vehicle?  And when service is required, does it need to be performed at a Tesla dealer or some type of Tesla-authorized service center?  I would tend to think that could also get pricey.


The 4-year, 50k mile warranty includes the first 4 yearly maintenance visits.  They have to be done at the Tesla service center, which is also in Cincy, but they do give you a loaner Tesla while it is being done.  There are currently no Teslas outside of their warranty period (the first model was released in late 2012), so there really isn't much data out there on how much they will cost to repair.  BTW, the warranty on the battery pack and motors is 8 years, unlimited miles.



mudpuppy said:


> Tesla doesn't have dealerships, they have stores.  Subtle difference but it's been a big deal here in Michigan.


Also a big deal in Kentucky.  They technically weren't allowed to bring a car down for me to test drive.  Snick, the difference is that Tesla sells directly from the factory to the consumer.  The dealership model that most car companies use, have a mandated middleman in the form of the car dealership owner, that gets the car at a discount from the factory and marks it up to make a profit.  Several states, Kentucky and Michigan included, have laws that protect this model so that dealerships can continue to make money.  Those laws preclude companies like Tesla from opening stores in their state to bypass the dealership model.  It's horseshit, but so are most laws.



Road Guy said:


> is there much to service if its all eclectic? no oil changes or anything?  do they even have a radiator?


Wheel rotation and wiper fluid are really the only preventative maintenance required (the only port under the hood is the windshield washer reservoir).  I'm not sure about the radiator, and I'm not sure about the heating/cooling system.  There are cabin heating/cooling systems and a completely separate, liquid-cooling system for the battery pack to prevent overheating or charging/discharging when the batteries are below their recommended temperature.


----------



## mudpuppy

And the existing auto companies are against allowing Tesla to sell direct to consumers because they're already stuck with the existing dealership network, which puts them at a somewhat unfair disadvantage.


----------



## snickerd3

evidently they liked it at one point.  reap what you sow.


----------



## Road Guy

there is nothing free market about the auto industry apparantly


----------



## snickerd3

some of the biggest babies out there.  dealership protections like that in KY, getting the government to make it illegal for car dealers to be open on sunday since it would be unfair to those that want to be closed for some to be open.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah we have that stupid sunday law in CO, like scum sucking car salesmen need a day off to go to church?


----------



## knight1fox3

Same in WI.  Stupid...


----------



## snickerd3

Road Guy said:


> yeah we have that stupid sunday law in CO, like scum sucking car salesmen need a day off to go to church?


what about Jewish car salesmen...their holy day is Saturday so no car sales on Saturday either.


----------



## MA_PE

they are slowly phasing out the "Blue Laws" here in MA. Back in old days EVERYTHING shut down on Sunday.


----------



## MetsFan

Here's an article on Tesla maintenance costs.  Seems pricey, but not overly so:

http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1095209_life-with-tesla-model-s-at-last-some-maintenance-needed-new-tires


----------



## snickerd3

MetsFan said:


> Here's an article on Tesla maintenance costs.  Seems pricey, but not overly so:
> 
> http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1095209_life-with-tesla-model-s-at-last-some-maintenance-needed-new-tires


what kind of junk tires did they put on that needed replacement after only 26K miles?


----------



## wilheldp_PE

snickerd3 said:


> what kind of junk tires did they put on that needed replacement after only 26K miles?


Having test driven 2 of these cars, I can see how any tire would need replacement after 26k miles.  It's hard not to drive that thing like a race car.

I didn't know that they charged $600 for the annual service.  There is no mention of that on the website, and I've seen forum posts that insinuate that it is included in the warranty.  Tesla changes its mind rapidly on charging for things.  For instance, you used to have to buy a $2500 upgrade to be able to use Superchargers...now that is included with all new vehicles.  Auto-pilot was given to all Model S owners when it was released...but now it is a $2500 option.  It wouldn't surprise me if you used to have to pay for the annual service, but it is now included.  But I'm not sure.  I will ask my delivery specialist.


----------



## mudpuppy

snickerd3 said:


> what kind of junk tires did they put on that needed replacement after only 26K miles?




Powerful cars use softer rubber to maintain traction under acceleration and cornering.  Softer tires wear out faster.  26k miles on tires for a sports car sounds reasonable to me.


----------



## Road Guy

so I just realized that the new/used factory radio I bought a few month ago has a 30 GB hard drive included.  I am so glad I didn't through away my life's CD Collection! 

I have been downloading them while I play them on the road, pretty slick (although I feel like this is 1990's technology!)  but I had forgotten that I owned 8 ACDC CD's, every 80's movie soundtrack, poison, GNR, skynard, etc... Its been fun times!  &amp; you should see the looks I get from people when I am inserting a CD (while sitting in traffic)


----------



## snickerd3

my car has that digital library option too.  Aerosmith and soundtracks are on there right now.  the cd case stays in the car so I have my regular collection with me


----------



## Road Guy

I've got around 30 more (cd's) to go then I wont have to carry them around anymore.....not that I ever did but it will be nice to just have them "in" the radio..


----------



## MA_PE

My 2002 has a 12 CD changer in the trunk.  Hot stuff when it first came out. 

My kids bought me a Pioneer in-dash for the DD about 5-6 years ago and I got an iPod connection cable for it for for an additonal $80!!!!  anyway my classic 80GB ipod now permanently resides in the glove compartment with all my CDs loaded on it.  Every now and then I'll hae to connect back to iTunes and load some more in it.  I hardly ever use the CD/MP3 player but I can if I want to.  The Pioneer is also satellite radio ready but UI'm too cheap to subscribe.


----------



## Road Guy

I am not sure if apple did it on purpose (so you would have to buy the music) but a few months ago I set aside a cold winter day to burn all my CD's into iTunes and it was taking an insanely long period of time to upload and convert them, I tried our regular home PC and our newer laptop and both were very slow, so I gave up after a couple of hours.. I have enjoyed being able to listen to some of these CD oldies that I wouldn't want to pay for, or go to the trouble to download them..

not sure why or how I own the Forest Gump soundtrack , but there are some excellent songs on there from the 60's &amp; 70's!


----------



## MetsFan

snickerd3 said:


> what kind of junk tires did they put on that needed replacement after only 26K miles?


My Touareg's tires only lasted about that long, and they are friggin' expensive at almost $300 a tire.  I also somehow managed to only go around 15K on Continental DWS tires on my bimmer.  They did see a full day of auto crossing though and I do some spirited driving to and from work.


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> I am not sure if apple did it on purpose (so you would have to buy the music) but a few months ago I set aside a cold winter day to burn all my CD's into iTunes and it was taking an insanely long period of time to upload and convert them, I tried our regular home PC and our newer laptop and both were very slow, so I gave up after a couple of hours.. I have enjoyed being able to listen to some of these CD oldies that I wouldn't want to pay for, or go to the trouble to download them..
> 
> not sure why or how I own the Forest Gump soundtrack , but there are some excellent songs on there from the 60's &amp; 70's!


Ugh, tell me about it.  It's so much easier to just get them digitally that I stopped trying to burn everything to my PC.  Like MA, I keep a 16gb ipod touch in my car permanently now and bring it in to switch out songs every now and again.


----------



## snickerd3

I got ~70K on the tires that came with my car.  I'd be replacing tires once a year at that 26K miles rate.   I can't fathom that sort expense


----------



## wilheldp_PE

I got about 60k out of the tires that came on my Altima.  They had been down to the wear strips since about 50k.  I will probably go with a little harder compound on the first set of replacement tires on the Tesla if they only last sub-30k.


----------



## Road Guy

MetsFan said:


> Ugh, tell me about it.  It's so much easier to just get them digitally that I stopped trying to burn everything to my PC.  Like MA, I keep a 16gb ipod touch in my car permanently now and bring it in to switch out songs every now and again.


that was my original plan until I discovered its easier and cheaper (free) to just slide my ancient music discs into the car stereo and it downloads it for me. what sucks is that I cant find a way to delete an individual song?


----------



## jeb6294

Now that the "new" truck has Sync, I've been using I Heart Radio a lot.  I've got just about all of my music on my iPhone so I can stream that, but I like being able to pick a song/band that sounds good at the moment and then hear stuff that is similar.  Yeah, you are at the whim of the app as to what you hear, but you can skip songs if it's something you don't want to listen to and a lot of times I get good stuff that I don't have on my phone.

It's getting close to tire time for the truck.  They were on there when I got it so I don't know how many miles were on them, but I'm sure 1,000+ ft-lb of torque doesn't help their longevity...does make for a nice burnout though.


----------



## snickerd3

my damn check engine light keeps turning on and off.  Took it to auto zone the other day error code P0404.


----------



## Road Guy

The struggle was real back in the day!







Lots of dust on this cd case...


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> my damn check engine light keeps turning on and off.  Took it to auto zone the other day error code P0404.


Just disable the light or put a piece of tape over it. Should be fine.   &lt;_&lt;


----------



## knight1fox3

wilheldp_PE said:


> I got about 60k out of the tires that came on my Altima.  They had been down to the wear strips since about 50k.  I will probably go with a little harder compound on the first set of replacement tires on the Tesla if they only last sub-30k.


Another question (thanks for being the test pilot).  Does Tesla provide with you with an estimated annual energy usage for charging their vehicles (depending on which model you get)?  I'm curious how that would compare to annual fuel usage for a given area.


----------



## Dleg

I'm so far behind the times.  I have somewhere around 500 CDs and I haven't ripped any of them to iTunes or any other digital format, nor do I personally own an iPod.  I've been planning to get started on loading them all into iTunes, but just haven't gotten started.  Probaby because I know how much time it will take.


----------



## Supe

After talking with TFMS last night, it looks like we're going to keep my shitbox Saturn.  Her CRV is getting up there in miles, and she is wanting something more economical to drive around town in.  The only major scheduled maintenance on the Saturn is the timing belt in another 15k miles.  I think she's going to "inherit" the Saturn, drop her CRV down to liability coverage only, and I will end up with a new daily driver.  We will keep the CRV as our dog transporter/errand car.


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> Just disable the light or put a piece of tape over it. Should be fine.   &lt;_&lt;


yeah but if it starts messing with the gas mileage I will have to get it looked at...  Stupid EGR.


----------



## snickerd3

Learning about combustion engine vs electric cars...the combustion won out, sorry Tesla


----------



## wilheldp_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Another question (thanks for being the test pilot).  Does Tesla provide with you with an estimated annual energy usage for charging their vehicles (depending on which model you get)?  I'm curious how that would compare to annual fuel usage for a given area.


They couldn't possibly do that.  The energy usage will vary greatly based on how far you drive and how hard you drive the car.  All of the EPA mileage estimates are based on an average usage of 300 Wh/mile.  There is a graph that you can display on either the dash display or center console touchscreen that will show you a chart of your instantaneous power consumption and an average line plotted over the last 5, 15, or 30 miles.  On my test drive, I was averaging about 350 Wh/mile because I was accelerating hard whenever I could, but I could see during normal use that it would be easy to keep it to 300.  Funny story...the Tesla rep was telling me that when they brought the P90D's down for the test drives at my company's party, he saw the highest average power usage he has ever seen.  Those cars were averaging over 900 Wh/mile!  

Also, somebody like me that puts &lt;10k miles per year on a car is going to have a substantially lower annual energy usage than somebody that puts &gt;15k miles per year on a car.  

Regardless, a full charge on my car (60 kWh) will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $4.20 (I think our power costs 7 cents/kWh), and I can get ~400 miles range out of two charges (which is how much I typically got out of 15 gallons of gas in my Altima).  So, $8.40 for two full charges vs. $33.15 for a full tank of gas (Louisville is averaging $2.21/gallon right now).


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> The struggle was real back in the day!
> 
> Lots of dust on this cd case...


Whatever...talk to me when you wanted to skip a song and had to hit the FFW button and try and guess where it is.  I had a car with a cassette deck that had a little switch that you could turn on so it would FFW until it would "hear" the break between songs and start playing.  That was NASA type shit right there...unless you were listening to something with pauses, or albums that had little or no break between songs, or....


----------



## Road Guy

lols, yeah I had a ton of cassette as well, I just don't have a way to take pictures of them since they are long gone.... (1990 HS graduation)

I remember I had one of those brief case looking things to hold them, I tossed them a few decades ago but I wish I had kept them around


----------



## Supe

Nothing says high fidelity like a mixtape made from holding your cassette recorder up to a radio speaker...


----------



## Road Guy

my 2nd car was a 1984 ford ranger and it had an 8 track in it. I found one 8 track at a friend of mines house, it was Alabama- not sure of the album name but it was the one that had "high cotton" on it.. played that one over and over again, but you know 8 tracks were actually more advanced because you could advance to the next song without the "FF" button


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> my 2nd car was a 1984 ford ranger and it had an 8 track in it. I found one 8 track at a friend of mines house, it was Alabama- not sure of the album name but it was the one that had "high cotton" on it.. played that one over and over again, but you know 8 tracks were actually more advanced because you could advance to the next song without the "FF" button


Not the 8-tracks that I recall.  You could advance to the next track which typically had more than one song on it.


----------



## MetsFan

I feel bad for whoever bought my bimmer.  Check this out:

[link expired]

It failed emissions and it's been in and out of service 3 times in less than 500 miles since they bought it.


----------



## Road Guy

Did you trade it in or sell it to a buyer directly? Hope they don't come looking for you!

about 4 years ago I bought a jeep from a used car dealer and didn't really look at it as close as I should. It was a rust bucket from Pennsylvania.  I kept it a year and after spending about a grand just welding stuff back on I sold it on craigslist for what I paid for it.  I was very upfront with the buyer and at the time he told me "he just wanted a jeep cause they looked cool". Then we moved to CO but I started getting angry messages from him via text once more stuff started falling apart.. LOLS  Good thing I didn't leave a forwarding address..

And never will I buy any car that ever spent any time in the NE!


----------



## MetsFan

Yeah the salt is a killer. I traded it in because I knew it had a bunch of issues and probably more than I didn't know about. At least they got a 90 day warranty.


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; they get to tell people they drive a BMW!


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> &amp; they get to tell people they drive a BMW!


Lol


----------



## Supe

Test drove a Focus ST last week.  Will probably end up with one in base trim.  Don't fit the Recaros, my back doesn't even touch the seat back.  The base seats are comfy, though.  WICKED torque steer, but an amazingly quick car for what it is with decent features and comfort, plus room for kid and dogs.  I don't think the dealer was particularly thrilled with my test drive - he had both hands on the door handle for most of it.


----------



## matt267 PE

Supe said:


> he had both hands on the door handle for most of it.


hahahah, make him earn his pay.


----------



## Supe

They only had black, and I don't want another black car.  Told them to call me when a base model white or charcoal show up.


----------



## Road Guy

I just saw a white one with bright red mudflaps, is that a premium feature?


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I just saw a white one with bright red mudflaps, is that a premium feature?




I think windshield wipers these days are a premium feature...


----------



## wilheldp_PE




----------



## envirotex

^^^^


----------



## P-E

Pretty sweet


----------



## matt267 PE

Nice


----------



## MA_PE

Nice.  Good luck with it!


----------



## Road Guy

well that's one way to make the middle east a little less relevant!

be curious to see how you like the ride and how far you can go and such!


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> They only had black, and I don't want another black car.  Told them to call me when a base model white or charcoal show up.


When I got my Jeep, I knew I didn't want black, but other than that I wasn't too worried about the color. I ended up with a yellow one which, surprisingly, has been the best color on any car I've had.  Did a pretty good job hiding dirt and scratches.


----------



## MetsFan

My coworker bought a new wrangler a couple of weeks ago. He added a back up camera a week ago and did this to another coworker's car. We all made fun of him for it.


----------



## Road Guy

^- Mercury Sable?  I had the displeasure to drive one of those for about a year (thank god someone hit it and totaled it!)


----------



## jeb6294

We did our "camping" vacation last week. Not ours...we found a place that rents one. Trailer was 37' weighing in at about 8,000lb plus whatever all our crap weighed. The truck was a monster. It almost towed it too well. There were a couple times on the interstate when I looked down and realized that we were cruising along doing 80mph. I'm sure we pissed of a few ricers when they got passed by this setup.


----------



## Road Guy

I think renting those is the best way to go, We really want to rent one and take a few weeks and hit up the Badlands, Glacier NP and some other places in Montana, Idaho, etc. I just cant see using one that much to justify buying one.  I would feel like I had to use it all the time....

The area just west of Yellowstone is serious "grizzly" territory and you can only camp there with "hard shell" RV (no tents, pop ups, etc) but the scenery is amazing and there is very little people there..


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> ^- Mercury Sable?  I had the displeasure to drive one of those for about a year (thank god someone hit it and totaled it!)


Oh yeah, it does look like one doesn't it?  It's actually a Buick though... Riviera or something.


----------



## knight1fox3

Awesome! Let us know how you like it.



Road Guy said:


> ^- Mercury Sable?  I had the displeasure to drive one of those for about a year (thank god someone hit it and totaled it!)


LOL, I drove one of those damn things for like (3) years until I was finally able to upgrade to the Infiniti G35.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Road Guy said:


> be curious to see how you like the ride and how far you can go and such!






knight1fox3 said:


> Awesome! Let us know how you like it.


The ride is awesome.  It has a very nice, luxury-type suspension.  The only noise you get from the car is road/wind noise, the A/C compressor when it is running hard,  and the occasional high-pitched whine from the front motor during hard acceleration.  I scared the crap out of some people in parking lots because below 25 mph, the car is silent (no road noise).

As for range, I drove it home from the Tesla Store in Cincinnati (118 miles) and still had 70 miles of range left.  I was accelerating hard at various points during the trip home, and it is a pretty hilly stretch of interstate, so 188 miles of range is pretty reasonable.  The EPA rated range for the battery pack is 218 miles, and it is based on 300 Wh/mile with neutral wind, level ground, and no accessory use (i.e., no A/C).  I found that when I don't do launches (0-60 tests) and use re-gen braking to slow down, it is fairly easy to maintain 270 Wh/mile usage.  But I was giving some test rides to people this weekend, and those were averaging over 400 Wh/mile.

There are Superchargers placed roughly every 150 miles along major interstates, so there really isn't anywhere I want to go that I can't get to in this car.  With larger batteries, it is possible to skip some of the Superchargers along the way and the stops are shorter because you require less charge at each stop.  But since I saved $8500 by getting the smallest battery, I would have to stop at each Supercharger for probably 30 minutes to an hour along the way.  When you take into account gas stops, food stops, and bathroom breaks in a conventional car, Tesla owners are reporting a &lt; 1 hour difference in most road trips between gas cars and Teslas.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> I think renting those is the best way to go, We really want to rent one and take a few weeks and hit up the Badlands, Glacier NP and some other places in Montana, Idaho, etc. I just cant see using one that much to justify buying one.  I would feel like I had to use it all the time....
> 
> The area just west of Yellowstone is serious "grizzly" territory and you can only camp there with "hard shell" RV (no tents, pop ups, etc) but the scenery is amazing and there is very little people there..


I'm picking up the rental for Airventure today.  For us, it's a far better deal to rent rather than own.  Cost is around $1000 for the week but I get a new one every year and I don't have to do any regular maintenance, pay license fees, or store the damn thing.


----------



## Supe

$1000/wk isn't bad at all when you consider it costs about the same to rent a minivan from National.


----------



## Road Guy

When we did our Tetons/Yellowstone trip I wish I had rented one,but the wife was saying they were closer to $2000/week for the ones you drive?


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I think renting those is the best way to go, We really want to rent one and take a few weeks and hit up the Badlands, Glacier NP and some other places in Montana, Idaho, etc. I just cant see using one that much to justify buying one.  I would feel like I had to use it all the time....


We had to make some last minute changes which resulted in moving around a bit more than I would have liked. Setting up and then breaking down the camper to move three times in one week added a lot of stress. For a while we had been talking about getting a camper of our own so we could do more long weekend trips whenever we wanted, but that went over like fiberglass underwear by the time we got back. There's a huge campground up at St. Mary's where Mrs.-6294 and her family have been going for years with a lot of permanent sites so the talk started moving back to getting something up there. It had come up before but the thought was that it'd be nice to be able to go different places. When we were there last week we did see some nice places for sale and it would be nice to be able to just pack up the car and go. Her parents also started kicking around the idea of getting a new pontoon boat and keeping it docked there if we got a permanent site. You know what they say, the only thing better than having a boat is having a friend who has a boat.


----------



## Road Guy

Was the setup and takedown like in the movie "RV"?

If I did buy one I would really want to get something like this (but not as fancy) when the kids get out of the house.  So many cool places to camp out here , but I just want a decent bed (getting too old to sleep on the ground)  Something I can park in the garage and not pay storage...

There is 4WD trail through Canyon lands in Utah you can drive through and camp along the way that is on my "list"


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> When we did our Tetons/Yellowstone trip I wish I had rented one,but the wife was saying they were closer to $2000/week for the ones you drive?


We did that for a couple of years.  It was over $2k for the week.  Kind of nice having that much room while travelling down the highway but not so great if you need to run into town for something.  On top of costing half the money for the camper itself, I like having the tow vehicle free to roam about while I'm up there.


----------



## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> There is 4WD trail through Canyon lands in Utah you can drive through and camp along the way that is on my "list"




The White Rim Road?  Spent three days on it a few years ago at Thanksgiving.  Absolutely awesome.  We did it on mountain bikes with a couple 4WD support vehicles.  The road is mostly in good shape (we saw a guy out there in a little foreign car), but there is a short section where 4wd is probably necessary (steep and sandy).

The third day of our trip was along the Green river.  Very scenic and we didn't see another soul the whole day, until we were actually out of the park and saw a couple BASE jumpers go off a cliff.  I'd highly recommend this trip!


----------



## Road Guy

cool, I need to get some info from you before we do this (planning next spring )   Did you have to carry in all your water?


----------



## Supe

So I know the Kraks are searching for a new vehicle.  What better way to outfit the interior, right @Krakosky?


----------



## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> cool, I need to get some info from you before we do this (planning next spring )   Did you have to carry in all your water?


Sure, just let me know.  Biggest tip is apply for your permits as soon as you can, because there's only a handful of campsites along the way.  We did carry in all our water, as the first two days there weren't any water sources.  When you're on the western end of the road I imagine you could filter water out of the Green River (as you can see in the third picture in my post it's relatively accessible), but honestly that would be a PITA.

You also want to carry enough fuel in case the road is blocked by the time you get to the end and have to double back and drive all the way back out.  You definitely don't want to get stuck out there, as it 70 miles across.  In an emergency there are a couple spots you could hike up to the Isle in the Sky, but that's a 3000 foot ascent.

I can't overstate how much I enjoyed this trip, the scenery is gorgeous and the solitude was awesome (granted we were there in the off season and I'm sure it's busier in the summer).


----------



## Road Guy

Is it like the other National Park backcountry permits that open March 1st?

We can drive there in a day so I defin want to do this area for spring break if we can pull it off...

Also it's a good excuse to by some junk for the jeep, like external fuel containers and such


----------



## FLBuff PE

https://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/whiterimroad.htm


----------



## Road Guy

thanks- man you know its easier to get group reservations than it is individual ones these days at most National Parks!


----------



## Dleg

Road Guy said:


> Was the setup and takedown like in the movie "RV"?
> 
> If I did buy one I would really want to get something like this (but not as fancy) when the kids get out of the house.  So many cool places to camp out here , but I just want a decent bed (getting too old to sleep on the ground)  Something I can park in the garage and not pay storage...
> 
> There is 4WD trail through Canyon lands in Utah you can drive through and camp along the way that is on my "list"


Have you considered a roof top tent?  I've been kind of thinking about one of these Tepui tents:


----------



## Road Guy

I had thought about those but.......


----------



## MA_PE

I'm curious, what's the advantage of a roof top tent  (other than being less accessible to walking wildlfe)?


----------



## Dleg

From what I can see, it's that plus you can leave your sleeping bags and pads rolled out inside it, so setting it up is real fast.  It stays on top of your truck, so it takes up no space inside the vehicle and is easy to deploy and pack up.


----------



## Road Guy

I guess not on the ground and you could probably put a better mattress pad on it?

There are some really great camping spots in Northern Wyoming and Montana but its "recommended" to use a hard "tent" / RV. 

Plus I slept on the ground last weekend while backpacking, even with a $125 air mattress I am getting too old for that shit..


----------



## mudpuppy

FLBuff PE said:


> https://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/whiterimroad.htm


Wow, they didn't have all day use permits back in 2012 when I was there.


----------



## csb

Flyer_PE said:


> I'm picking up the rental for Airventure today.  For us, it's a far better deal to rent rather than own.  Cost is around $1000 for the week but I get a new one every year and I don't have to do any regular maintenance, pay license fees, or store the damn thing.


Flyer just summed up my current thoughts on car ownership.


----------



## knight1fox3

So Wed. I was able to swear off my failed Regulator/Rectifier assembly on the bike. Then swore on the new one. Put things mostly back together and turned the key. Nadda, nothing. No lights or any clicking, just still dead in the water. All fuses are in tact as well. I'm at a loss for what might still be the issue. And I really don't feel like going over each and every electrical connection to try and find the problem. Might bite the bullet and take 'er to the dealer so they can over-charge me for work I've already done.


----------



## csb




----------



## Flyer_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> So Wed. I was able to swear off my failed Regulator/Rectifier assembly on the bike. Then swore on the new one. Put things mostly back together and turned the key. Nadda, nothing. No lights or any clicking, just still dead in the water. All fuses are in tact as well. I'm at a loss for what might still be the issue. And I really don't feel like going over each and every electrical connection to try and find the problem. Might bite the bullet and take 'er to the dealer so they can over-charge me for work I've already done.


Have you checked the alternator itselff?  When the regulator went out on my bike, the troubleshooting procedure suggested unhooking, starting the bike, and cheking for unregulated DC on the leads that would normally feed the regulator. The Harley was configured such that it made the test easy.  YMMV with that rice grinding thrillmobile you ride around on.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Ground wire??


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> Have you checked the alternator itselff?  When the regulator went out on my bike, the troubleshooting procedure suggested unhooking, starting the bike, and cheking for unregulated DC on the leads that would normally feed the regulator. The Harley was configured such that it made the test easy.  YMMV with that rice grinding thrillmobile you ride around on.





Ship Wreck PE said:


> Ground wire??


Good suggestions.  I have no idea where to start to locate/disassemble the alternator assembly but I will investigate. The wiring on this bike is crazy. It looks like one of those memes from India and how some of their residential utility wiring looks. This is the replacement R/R I got on Amazon. There were (2) different connectorized cable assemblies. I didn't do anything else with any of the other wiring (including grounds).

Would an OBD indicate the problem or does that require system power to function properly?


----------



## Supe

OBD needs power, to my knowledge.  In a lot of cases, the OBD port has pins that power the scan tool.


----------



## Supe

Swapped starters on the Porsche - no dice.  Solenoid clicks, but no crank.  WTF?  Jumped solenoid terminals with screwdriver, starter motor spins.  Hoping just a bad solenoid, except... solenoid costs just about as much as a new starter does, and has been discontinued.  WTF?  New starter on the way, fingers crossed I don't have to start trying to dig through 30 year old Porsche wiring...


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Some solenoids are serviceable. I remember years ago flipping a round copper disk in an old GM solenoid and it worked like new.


----------



## Supe

Most GM ones are with a little sandpaper or by just flipping the little contact ring over.  This one is a stamped housing with a crimped end, rather than bolted together like GM ones, so no dice.


----------



## jeb6294

knight1fox3 said:


> So Wed. I was able to swear off my failed Regulator/Rectifier assembly on the bike. Then swore on the new one. Put things mostly back together and turned the key. Nadda, nothing. No lights or any clicking, just still dead in the water. All fuses are in tact as well. I'm at a loss for what might still be the issue. And I really don't feel like going over each and every electrical connection to try and find the problem. Might bite the bullet and take 'er to the dealer so they can over-charge me for work I've already done.


Maybe I missed it, but you haven't done anything to the bike recently have you? I'm on a forum for my bike and generally whenever someone has an electrical problem over there it ends up getting traced back to some mod they've done.


----------



## knight1fox3

knight1fox3 said:


> Good suggestions.  I have no idea where to start to locate/disassemble the alternator assembly but I will investigate. The wiring on this bike is crazy. It looks like one of those memes from India and how some of their residential utility wiring looks. This is the replacement R/R I got on Amazon. There were (2) different connectorized cable assemblies. I didn't do anything else with any of the other wiring (including grounds).
> 
> Would an OBD indicate the problem or does that require system power to function properly?





jeb6294 said:


> Maybe I missed it, but you haven't done anything to the bike recently have you? I'm on a forum for my bike and generally whenever someone has an electrical problem over there it ends up getting traced back to some mod they've done.


I found the problem. In addition to the auxiliary device fuses, there's a main 30A fuse isolated from the others and located elsewhere on the bike. That fuse was clearly bad and once replace, the bike came back to life! Feels good that I didn't have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealer. That would have been an expensive fuse replacement. LOL  Going to replace the air filter and re-assemble everything later this week.


----------



## Supe

Next question - why'd the fuse pop?


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> Next question - why'd the fuse pop?


Did you see my earlier posts on the issue that started all this? It's from a few pages back. But the R/R completely fried. I'm guessing that caused some type of electrical surge and I'm actually glad the fuse was there to thwart any further damage. Same thing happened to my buddy's Ducati and he said he had to replace every damn bulb on his bike. Others have said their battery was also fried. Neither of which happened to me on this one.


----------



## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> Did you see my earlier posts on the issue that started all this? It's from a few pages back. But the R/R completely fried. I'm guessing that caused some type of electrical surge and I'm actually glad the fuse was there to thwart any further damage. Same thing happened to my buddy's Ducati and he said he had to replace every damn bulb on his bike. Others have said their battery was also fried. Neither of which happened to me on this one.


Was wondering if you had just swapped the R/R thinking it was that, but it was the fuse in lieu of.


----------



## jeb6294

Rode the bike to work the other day. We had a meeting at Contracting that afternoon. It's only about a mile away so we usually walk but since I had the bike I figured I would ride. After the meeting it was strangely difficult to back out of the spot where I had parked...!$#%^&amp;, back tire was flat. It wasn't fun, but I was able to limp back to the parking garage at work. Aside from being a little more secure, the garage is also where they keep the golf carts they use to shuttle patients around so they have a hose reel hooked up to the compressor. I was able to air it back up before I headed back to the office. I figured if it still had air when I got home I would ride it home. If it was already flat again I'd get a ride home and grab the trailer. Half hour later when it was time to leave there was still enough air that I topped it off and headed home (it's only 12 miles).

The tread in the rear was getting a bit thin anyway so I actually already had a new tire sitting in the garage. I was just hoping I could wait long enough to get it put on the next time it was due for service. Aired it up again and rode up to the dealer on Tuesday. They called yesterday so I went to pick it up after work. The rear tire on my motorcycle is now almost AS BIG AS THE TIRES ON MY TRUCK. The bike is a 240 and the truck is a 245...for now. The truck is in need of new tires too so I'm going to bump it up to some more respectable 285's.


----------



## Supe

Photographer has great timing!  Pic of me lifting the inside tire at the last hillclimb in the slooooow 944.


----------



## Supe

Porsche has a misfire off idle when cold.  Think it's a bad temperature sensor, need to order one.

That aside, the car ran well at Charlotte Motor Speedway on Friday.  I was able to run flat out with good tires/suspension this year on the NASCAR oval, which in this car with the short tires is only 111 mph, but my data acquisition shows 1.34 lateral G's in the banking, which is why I'm still so damned sore today.  

As long as my protest holds up, I'll have won my class.  My times were incorrectly listed, and the guy who should have finished #2 in the class was showing session times of 41, 41, 41, *30*, 41.  Having been faster than the guy in nearly every single part of the track, I can safely say there is no f'ing way that guy shaved 11 seconds off his time for one session after being at a 1:41:XX on every single other session that day.  And since I was on track and in front of him, he would have had to pass me like an f'ing freight train.  When I was in front of him, he never passed me.  

That aside, I'm surprised both me and the little engine that could held up.  The heat was BRUTAL.  Nearly 100 degrees and humidity so high that the puddles on the asphalt weren't evaporating.  Coworker's upper radiator hose went off like a bomb, several other cars dropping out with overheating issues, in some cases, their electronics overheating.  I had to come in early for a session once when I started getting tunnel vision near the end of the run from the heat.  The nice thing about having the data acquisition in the car is that it shows me my lap times in real time.  So, if I think the car's performance is falling off (usually when the tires start to overheat), I can glance over at the lap times, confirm, and bring me and the car in early instead of stressing it for no benefit.  I definitely need to invest in a cool shirt setup for next year, though.


----------



## MA_PE

congrats Supe.  Just curious, how did they incorrectly list your times? and You'd think the race organizers would suspect somehting amiss when they see time substantially different from the other 4 times.  I hope the protest comes out favorable for you.


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> congrats Supe.  Just curious, how did they incorrectly list your times? and You'd think the race organizers would suspect somehting amiss when they see time substantially different from the other 4 times.  I hope the protest comes out favorable for you.


It's supposed to be automated, but occasionally weird things can happen, including copy/paste errors to the final score sheets.  Last year, they showed one entry running as two separate cars during the same session with two different transponder numbers.  The reality of it is, they pay far less attention to the Time Trials cars, and are more focused on the Club Racing events that go on that weekend, so more mistakes happen.


----------



## Road Guy

so my dinosaur Tahoe keeps wearing down. it needs a 4WD Transfer Case Module (Fuck you auto 4WD button) to make the 4WD work.

The decent mechanic we use quoted me $650.  The part is around $175  but you have to get it programmed &amp; that's the bulk of the cost.

I was thinking to save some bucks just put the module / switch in myself and then see what a dealer would charge just to program it?

I haven't been to a stealer ship in a while, but do they do anything for less than $300 bucks these days??


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> so my dinosaur Tahoe keeps wearing down. it needs a 4WD Transfer Case Module (Fuck you auto 4WD button) to make the 4WD work.
> 
> The decent mechanic we use quoted me $650.  The part is around $175  but you have to get it programmed &amp; that's the bulk of the cost.
> 
> I was thinking to save some bucks just put the module / switch in myself and then see what a dealer would charge just to program it?
> 
> I haven't been to a stealer ship in a while, but do they do anything for less than $300 bucks these days??


RG:  Is this your problem?  This guy seems to indicate it's an easy fix/work-around.


----------



## Road Guy

now that's funny, that's actually the trick I had to use to get the vehicle out of 4WD (found the same video), but it doesn't permanently fix the 4wd (which I need to work). 

I looked around some junk yards for the part but no luck, they have also said If I can find one in another Tahoe or suburban with the same size tires I can exchange without them being "programmed"

Its basically a plug and chug part, easy to install. I will give one of the stealerships a call to see what they charge to "program"


----------



## jeb6294

Have you checked any Tahoe/Yukon message boards? Sometimes it's just a matter of knowing the "secret" way to reprogram something and they may know the secret.


----------



## jeb6294

Poor lil' fella. You already got the saga of getting the rear tire replaced. The guys on the Raider message board said it might be a good idea to take a look at the front tire too. It was a 2010 with a couple thousand miles on it when I got it last year so it had plenty of tread left, but it was 6 years old. I broke down and got a motorcycle lift at Harbor Freight on my way home from work cause I figured I'll use it enough to justify the cost over the next several years. It actually took longer to put the lift together than to get the wheel off.

The sidewalls were pretty cracked up so they were definitely showing their age. With reward points and a gift card balance I didn't know I had, the new tire only cost me ~$40 from Amazon and install shouldn't be very much since I've already got the wheel off so I'm not going ot complain too much. New and old are both in the truck so I can drop it off on the way home from work. I'm usually not happy to see rain in the forecast, but it's supposed to stick around for a couple more days so at least I'm not missing any good riding weather.


----------



## Road Guy

How long do motorcycle tires usually last? I've never owned one? Do they wear like car tires or last a lot longer?

I did check out some tahoe forums- it seems a lot of auto forums are really dying, even jeep forum it takes days to get a response...


----------



## MA_PE

I suspect tires are tires.  I have a car I don't drive very frequently but wouldn't swap out tires just because of age.  If they show signs of distress, that's another story.


----------



## Road Guy

Since my wife doesn't drive much her tires had pretty much dry rotted at around 3 years / 10K miles.. they were Michelin Tires..


----------



## jeb6294

A lot depends on the tire. The rears that come on those bikes are usually good for around 8k miles. The one I put on there, most guys are getting about 12k. You get quite a bit more out of the fronts, some can get as much as 20k on them. I've got ~7k miles on the odometer, but the sidewalls on the front tire looked like they were pretty dry rotted. Once upon a time when I took the tank off I found out about 3/4 of my airbox was plugged up with one of those mud wasp nests so obviously it sat...a lot...before I got it.

Talk to me about age not mattering when your car is on two wheels. You get a blow out, you'll probably pull over to the side of the rode. Get a blow out on a motorcycle and you're probably going to crash and it's not going to be pretty.


----------



## mudpuppy

^ Especially the front.  My dad lost the front tire on his bike on an expressway on-ramp once.  Not sure how he didn't bite it.


----------



## Road Guy

as I have bored you all with previoulsy, my wife is an ICU nurse, around 30% of all of her patients are bike riders.  I don't think I would take the chance, most of them, if they live, don't have a real good quality of life when they leave the hospital.....

If I lived in Idaho or the middle of no where somewhere I would ride but that's about the only way I think..


----------



## MA_PE

I don't criticize anyone that likes them, but motorbikes don't do much for me....pretty much for the reason already stated above.

My son bought a bike because he got a good deal on it from a friend who was being deployed.  I bite my tongue and hope he'll get over the fad and just sell it soon.  My wife is not so quiet on it, constantly throwing barbs to get rid of it.


----------



## knight1fox3

And of those 30%, it'd be interesting to see how many also wore the appropriate road armor. If I'm going on the hwy, it's full faced helmet and full kevlar (better impact rating than leather).

BTW, my rear bike tire is a 180/55ZR-17 and expensive. But it's good for speeds of 168+ mph. I think the published rating is something like 5,000 miles for the brand I get.


----------



## Road Guy

I'll ask her but in the past she says if it involves hitting another vehicle or object at above 45 mph your basically fucked...based on the corpses they roll down to the morgue...


----------



## jeb6294

And of those 30%, how many were due to rider negligence versus some jackass who's too busy texting to pay attention to what's going on around them.

For a cruiser with a 10-in wide tire on the back, Raiders actually handle pretty well. It's one of the reasons I got one...that and being too old for a sport bike.


----------



## Road Guy

When I have asked her in the past it seems like most were just normal accidents- nothing out if the ordinary - and you know the assholes you see on bikes doing stupid stuff probably don't ever get in an accident it's just the normal people..:

I asked her about the Kevlar and she said that's just more stuff they have to pull out of your skin when you crash..

A few weeks ago she had an interesting situation. One of those "real" CA biker gangs (criminals) got into a bad wreck and the bikers "old lady" got into a fight with the "club president" over the final disposition of the guys organs. Apparently the biker club members give POA to the club president for these matters and the wife (old lady) was non to thrilled...

If you ever watched sons of anarchy she said it was not quite as glamorous as the tv show 

They had to call the cops cause they had folks with knifes and guns and shit under their jackets to get them to leave....


----------



## Road Guy

wife's patient over the weekend..

motorcycle was struck @ 90 degrees by automobile going 45 MPH.  Motorcycle "failed to yield" through a 3 way intersection.

Motorcycle guy had helmet and "armor" but is now missing his right leg below the knee..

just be careful out there!


----------



## csb

We've had 25 fatalities since July 15th and many of those have included motorcycles. Of course, it was Sturgis at the beginning of the month. 

Today is two years since my car broke down. Thanks again, RG, for helping me out when I was stuck on the side of the road.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I stopped riding mine because I found myself spending more and more time worrying about getting smoked by some dumbass either texting or posting to facebook while driving.  My tolerance for risk also took a nose dive after my son was born.  I just don't make the same decisions I did when I was my only dependent.


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> wife's patient over the weekend..
> 
> motorcycle was struck @ 90 degrees by automobile going 45 MPH.  Motorcycle "failed to yield" through a 3 way intersection.
> 
> Motorcycle guy had helmet and "armor" but is now missing his right leg below the knee..
> 
> just be careful out there!


Wow! Not good at all...


----------



## Road Guy

No problem CSB, although I didn't really do much


----------



## csb

You saved me $800. That's a lot.


----------



## MA_PE

My son decided to sell his motorcylce.  His mother is ecstatic.  I'd rather he got rid of it as well, but I wouldn't hound him to.


----------



## Supe

Hey @Flyer_PE, here's one for you...

http://jalopnik.com/chill-as-fuck-pilot-somehow-still-chill-after-terrifyin-1786875797


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> Hey @Flyer_PE, here's one for you...
> 
> http://jalopnik.com/chill-as-fuck-pilot-somehow-still-chill-after-terrifyin-1786875797


He's one lucky bastard and he knows it.


----------



## Supe

No kidding.  He could probably experience liftoff based on the suction from the pucker factor alone.


----------



## Flyer_PE

When I had my little incident, I was just fine until 5 or 10 minutes after landing.  As I'm standing there watching oil drip off the airframe, it finally sunk in just how badly it could have ended. 

I've posted these before but they still serve as a reminder to me to always have a plan for when shit happens.


----------



## Supe

Plan = parachute?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Plan = Where's the nearest place to land this thing if the noisy thing up front goes quiet.

Parachute wouldn't do any good in that aircraft.  No way to get the damn door open against 150mph wind speed.


----------



## MA_PE

So I bring my 2009 Chevy cobalt to a local car wash and have it detailed prior to listing it for sale.  They did an awesome job of cleaning the interior including steam cleaning all the rugs and seats.  I start the car and now the airbag light is on and the information panel says "Service Air Bag".  WTF nothing is ever easy.  I searched online and it seems there are connections under the seat and sensors in the seats for this system.  I don't know if something got wet, jarred loose, or now the is bag is fubar.  Of course I need to got to work so I don't have any time to look at anything.  AAARRRGGGHHH!


----------



## matt267 PE

MA_PE said:


> airbag light is on


That's easy to fix. Use this:


----------



## MA_PE

very helpful.. thanks


----------



## Road Guy

got this from a hiking group were on.. I guess someone parked in this guys spot? wonder if the roof scratches are covered under comprehensive?


----------



## MA_PE

So I go out to check on the seat belt light and look for a loose connection etc.  The car windows are SOAKED with condensation on the inside from leftover moisture in the seats, carpet, etc.  I open the windows and run the defroster to dry it out some and the air bag light is out and stays out.  Nice!.  I take the car for a ride and everything is great.  I back it into the driveway and I hit/rode up on a small retaining wall on one side. Scrape damage on the underside of the rear quarter and jarred loose the integral "mud flap" behind the rear wheel.  &lt;smh&gt;  FML.


----------



## Road Guy

Sorry Man, but you can Defin fix the mud flap with duct tape and a sheet rock screw! Hope you get it sold!


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> Sorry Man, but you can Defin fix the mud flap with duct tape and a sheet rock screw! Hope you get it sold!


thanks.  Yeah it's only a couple of screws into the plastic, just another PITA.

FWIW, I took the car to a local Scrub-a-dub car wash for the detail.  $120 to completely steam clean the seats, carpets, mats, etc. interior and clean and armor-all everything else and another $50 for a hand wax of the exterior.  $170 total and the car looks like a brand new car.  I was especially pleased with the interior.


----------



## Road Guy

I need to get my son to find a detail place for our old Tahoe - he used it for his lawn mowing business this summer and it is filthy. I actually chewed his ass pretty hard about it over the weekend.  We use the Tahoe for family trips and with ski season starting next month I need it back in clean conditions. (At his expense)

I don't know if he is just a slob but in the almost a year he has been driving my former car he has never voluntarily cleaned it or washed it (without me directing him to do so) I remember as a new driver, even though I drove a POS Ford Escort, I still kept it clean..

We looked at getting the wife a used Pilot and selling the Tahoe (2002- 190K miles) and getting him something I don't have to ride in, but the math just doesn't work out this year.. &amp; he will be a senior next year and after that I doubt we will need a 6 person vehicle much..


----------



## knight1fox3

I actually used to wash and *wax* by hand my '84 Toyota Corolla which was my first car that I paid $800 for. I had to go around all the rust and bondo spots. :lmao:  But I didn't care, all that mattered was it was my car.


----------



## MA_PE

For some reason my younger son never cleaned out any car he's ever driven.  It would get cluttered with debris and both my wife and I dreaded if we ever had to ride in or use the vehicle he was driving.  Like RG when I started driving I kept my car clean so it irritated the heck out of me.  when he left the Cobalt back with me I told him to have it cleaned/detailed.  He said he did but it still looked "dirty" with no clutter.  I told him that if he had that car detailed it was the worst frickin' job I'd ever seen.  He eventually confessed that he just took it to  car wash vacuum, gave it a once over with the vac and called it a day.  Kids....they ruin everything.


----------



## MetsFan

I still try to do a full detail on my car once a year - wash / polish / clay bar / sealant.  It's tougher these days with the kids, but I've been doing it since I got my first car back in 2007.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> The body style looks good, but not too flashy for my tastes.  The interior is absolutely amazing.
> 
> BTW, I am no longer taking suggestions for names...one of my college friends won the internet today.  My Tesla will be known as "Edison."


My new license plate finally came in...


----------



## MA_PE

Nice!


----------



## Road Guy

+1


----------



## Dleg

LOL.


----------



## ptatohed

Anyone here into radar detectors and/or laser jammers?


----------



## willsee

Haven't washed either of my cars in a year.


----------



## jeb6294

ptatohed said:


> Anyone here into radar detectors and/or laser jammers?


Never had much use for them. I always heard that by the time they go off it's too late. I usually go by the brakes lights of the people ahead of me. Someone could be going down the highway with the cruise control set at the speed limit and they're still going to hit the brakes when they see a cop.

Trying to remember if it was Mythbusters, but someone tested the different laser "blockers" and none of them worked.


----------



## MA_PE

25-30 years ago radar detectors actually worked at warning of speed traps.  Advances in the laser technology pretty much negate any advance warning these days so it's pretty much dead.  Using Waze you get "smokey reports" from other drivers ahead of you.  It's likely much more effective than any detection device.

I think the cop might notice if you're using a jammer, as you'll be going right by him at a high rate of speed, and that might be more problems than just getting the ticket.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Rather than worry about radar, I just try to be the second or third fastest vehicle in sight and don't drive like a jackass.  Seems to work pretty well given the last time I got a ticket was over 15 years ago.  The only other solid rule around here is not to exceed 5mph over the limit through Racine Wisconsin if your car has Illinois plates.


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Using Waze you get "smokey reports" from other drivers ahead of you.  It's likely much more effective than any detection device.
> 
> I think the cop might notice if you're using a jammer, as you'll be going right by him at a high rate of speed, and that might be more problems than just getting the ticket.


Yes, so in addition to the speeding ticket you'll also be ticketed for texting &amp; driving. :thumbs:


----------



## ptatohed

jeb6294 said:


> Never had much use for them. I always heard that by the time they go off it's too late. I usually go by the brakes lights of the people ahead of me. Someone could be going down the highway with the cruise control set at the speed limit and they're still going to hit the brakes when they see a cop.
> 
> Trying to remember if it was Mythbusters, but someone tested the different laser "blockers" and none of them worked.


If the officer is using radar, you should have an adequate warning.  There are some exceptions like "instant-on" radar (rare) but, for the most part, you're good if the officer is using radar.  If the officer is using laser on the other hand, if your laser detector goes off, it's basically a "ticket notify-er".  There are some exceptions like if you catch a littler laser scatter from the car in front of you or if he takes a few seconds to lock on and you can decrease your speed in those few seconds.  I think the stats are that officers use radar 75-80% of the time and laser 20-25% of the time.   

I assure you laser jammers (laser diffusers, laser shifters) work.  You have to have the right jammers and/or you have to hope the officer isn't using one of the newest guns.  You might be thinking of radar jammers/blockers.  There is no known commercial device that blocks radar.  And if there were, it's illegal in all 50 states.  Bogus companies like Rocky Mountain Radar claim to sell radar "scramblers" but they have repeatedly been tested not to work.   



MA_PE said:


> 25-30 years ago radar detectors actually worked at warning of speed traps.  Advances in the laser technology pretty much negate any advance warning these days so it's pretty much dead.  Using Waze you get "smokey reports" from other drivers ahead of you.  It's likely much more effective than any detection device.
> 
> I think the cop might notice if you're using a jammer, as you'll be going right by him at a high rate of speed, and that might be more problems than just getting the ticket.


Waze is good but doesn't help you if you are the first one to come across a speed enforcement officer or if no one has reported him yet.  It's another tool but not a guarantee. 

The proper way to use laser jammers is to "jam to kill", not "jam to gun".  So, if your laser detector/jammer alerts, you quickly drop to at/near posted speed limit and flick it off.  If you "jam to gun", he'll likely know.  Laser jammers are illegal in 12 states.  Radar detectors are illegal in 2 states.   



Flyer_PE said:


> Rather than worry about radar, I just try to be the second or third fastest vehicle in sight and don't drive like a jackass.  Seems to work pretty well given the last time I got a ticket was over 15 years ago.  The only other solid rule around here is not to exceed 5mph over the limit through Racine Wisconsin if your car has Illinois plates.


Wise advice.


----------



## jeb6294

ptatohed said:


> I think the stats are that officers use radar 75-80% of the time and laser 20-25% of the time.
> 
> I assure you laser jammers (laser diffusers, laser shifters) work.


Around here, I think that ratio might be the other way around. Almost every time I see a state trooper sitting in the median, they are propped up on their door using the scope to aim their gun at specific cars...I'm assuming those are the lasers.

The blockers I saw them testing were mostly the covers you put on your license plate that are supposed to block/scatter/absorb the laser. None of them worked.


----------



## Road Guy

I've just gotten old, I don't speed "that much" to worry about it anymore in all reality. of course I drive a square box that doesn't go very fast.


----------



## Road Guy

So gearing up for this years winter, I am trying to find some better lights for my family snow driver, the Tahoe. There were a couple times driving through the mountains I literally couldn't see 20 feet ahead of me in a white out driving at 5 mph last year..

I was trying to see from those of you who have used both, if I should go with the expensive upgraded  standard driving lights, or get some fancy accessory lighting that I would have to install and mount?  I prefer to just spend the money if I can make the regular headlights work better but I feel leery of what  the burnout kid at advanced auto parts will tell me..


----------



## Supe

LED light bar FTW.


----------



## Road Guy

What was that last part?


----------



## Supe

"Fix to windshield"


----------



## snickerd3

or you can just go the @csb route and get a kick ass bike.  https://paddle8.com/auction/robin-williams/


----------



## ptatohed

jeb6294 said:


> Around here, I think that ratio might be the other way around. Almost every time I see a state trooper sitting in the median, they are propped up on their door using the scope to aim their gun at specific cars...I'm assuming those are the lasers.
> 
> The blockers I saw them testing were mostly the covers you put on your license plate that are supposed to block/scatter/absorb the laser. None of them worked.


You are probably right.  I think the 80/20 radar/LIDAR is country-wide average.  I see probably 50/50 in my area.  Yup, if you see them looking through the scope, it is LIDAR.

Yep, the license plate "shields" don't work.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> So gearing up for this years winter, I am trying to find some better lights for my family snow driver, the Tahoe. There were a couple times driving through the mountains I literally couldn't see 20 feet ahead of me in a white out driving at 5 mph last year..I was trying to see from those of you who have used both, if I should go with the expensive upgraded  standard driving lights, or get some fancy accessory lighting that I would have to install and mount?  I prefer to just spend the money if I can make the regular headlights work better but I feel leery of what  the burnout kid at advanced auto parts will tell me..


Go with the integral units. The light bars are great, but are easily taken out by rocks or thieves. I've yet to mount the replacement light bar mounted units that are on the shelf.

I used integral HID replacements from retrosolutions.com. So far, minor issues after 4 years of service, but they're worth it.


----------



## Dleg

I put some running boards on my 4runner last week, and while I was putting them on, I sheared off one of the bolts with my brute strength. Either that, or the bolts supplied with Westin running boards are crap.  

I promised myself that I would not take it to a mechanic to have the bolt extracted, which sheared off about 1/4 inch inside the threads.  So I went out and bought some drill bits that were capable of drilling into hardened steel, a center punch, and then borrowed a bolt extractor set from work.  

I go home, take off the running board so I can get the drill into the end of the sheared bolt, get all my tools laid out, crawl under the truck, and  find that the bolt has backed itself out halfway already from road vibration (I had applied anti-seize as per the instructions with the running boards).  All I had to do was turn it by hand to get it the rest of the way out.  All that planning and tool buying for nothing.


----------



## Supe

Sure beats drilling into the bolt extractor you just broke off in your stuck bolt.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Did you buy a left hand drill bit?


----------



## Dleg

No, I couldn't find one, even at the industrial hardware place I went to.


----------



## Road Guy

its usually next to the fallopian tube


----------



## jeb6294

Dleg said:


> No, I couldn't find one, even at the industrial hardware place I went to.


Try here....


----------



## MA_PE

RG:

This one is for you (note it's in Denver).  Keep an eye on your doors in winter time.  More proof that people suck.

http://www.jk-forum.com/articles/jeep-wrangler-doors-snatched-broad-daylight/?newsletter?utm_source=jan16&amp;utm_medium=email&amp;utm_campaign=content


----------



## Road Guy

yeah you got to be careful with the top off or if you don't lock your doors.. the newer jeep doors are so much heavier than the old ones its a little harder now...I only took my doors off once this summer it was a PITA.  They sell some locking nuts for the doors I need to order some.. thanks for the reminder!

On my older jeep when I was getting my MBA at night all the jeeps would park together at the college, one night someone went through and snatched around 5 sets of doors while we were in class, luckily for me I had the "half" doors that no one wanted so mine didn't get taken..


----------



## envirotex

Some new clothes...


----------



## jeb6294

The rule for owning a Jeep is to never have anything in it that you wouldn't care about getting stolen. One thing a lot of people don't think about is that you can very easily unzip the back window on a soft top and be in a locked Jeep in about 45 seconds. I used to keep a little luggage padlock on my zippers, but it takes even less time to take a razor blade to the plastic window, so that was more for your casual hoodlum.


----------



## Road Guy

nice wheels Tex, (even if it is a Toyota) 

In my 4 jeeps  I have had relative good luck with theft and other issues from being "topless"  Even with the newer hardtops the rear window is fairly worthless and I imagine you could break it with a small hammer.. But I do abide by that rule of keeping nothing in the vehicle..

The newer ones have made it where you cant unlock the tailgate once its locked, which helps. After driving around most of the summer with the top off I plan to buy one of the compartment lockers so you can basically have a secure tailgate with some room to put some low level valuables.. I may build something also. but many times this summer If I had to run an errand on the way home I had to drag my laptop bag around with me,, which was a "drag"

http://www.quadratec.com/products/14036_0005_07.htm  &lt;- this is pricey but I was thinking I could make something similar to keep the "honest" people out...but would be nice to have..


----------



## snickerd3

i like my pilot and the new design isn't horrible, but I have been eyeing full crew cab pickup trucks too.  Soooo torn!  logistically the truck makes no sense with carseat/booster seats, and I will need the extra row of seats in the pilot as the kiddos get older to lug their friends around too.   Maybe the next next car will be a truck


----------



## Road Guy

when we thought the wifes car was dead we looked at Pilots, I really like them but man they are proud of them..$$

wife is actually wanting now to get a Tacoma 4 door so she can move around in the snow easier.. of course those are not cheap either..

So I am not sure if I updated the wifes prius drama..


last month her (fat ass) parents came to visit, they drove the prius to Aspen to "look at the one color fall leaf in CO"

Prius battery (hybrid ) appears to die in Aspen

Tow car back to Denver - paid for that AAA membership for sure

_Sweat having to get rid of a useless car for a while_

Learn that the hybdrid battery is OK but 2 years ago the first hybrid battery died, it was still under warranty so Toyota replaced, but they did not replace the fans that cool the battery, so the battery was "fine" but shut down driving up the mountains.  Toyota actually owned up to it and gave us a new hybrid battery and replaced the fans, have to admit I was a little shocked they went that far.

So now we are making a plan to sell the prius since it has new hybrid battery that "should" be good for 4 more years, but were just trying to be extremely picky selling it since there are ALOT of them in this area..


----------



## MetsFan

The Prius battery only lasts 4 years?  How much is the replacement?  My BIL just bought a 2007 Prius with 60K miles for $6K, which seemed like a great deal.


----------



## Road Guy

The first one lasted 6 years but it seems the "standard" life of the replacement ones are around 4 years give or take..

If his hasn't had the hybrid battery go out he is probably most likely due for it soon, our first one was under warranty, I think up till around 60K miles (don't recall) but they are around $4 grand..

We just want to get rid of ours in the next year while it still has a defin good battery.. total sham..


----------



## wilheldp_PE

I hope my Tesla battery lasts 7 years and 11 months.  It has an 8 year, unlimited mile warranty on it, so I'd like to get a new one before the warranty runs out.


----------



## MetsFan

Road Guy said:


> The first one lasted 6 years but it seems the "standard" life of the replacement ones are around 4 years give or take..If his hasn't had the hybrid battery go out he is probably most likely due for it soon, our first one was under warranty, I think up till around 60K miles (don't recall) but they are around $4 grand..
> 
> We just want to get rid of ours in the next year while it still has a defin good battery.. total sham..


Holy crap. Hopefully his lasts a while, otherwise, there go his savings.

Sent from my GT-I9505G using Tapatalk


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> The newer ones have made it where you cant unlock the tailgate once its locked, which helps. After driving around most of the summer with the top off I plan to buy one of the compartment lockers so you can basically have a secure tailgate with some room to put some low level valuables.. I may build something also. but many times this summer If I had to run an errand on the way home I had to drag my laptop bag around with me,, which was a "drag"


Before I got rid of mine, I looked into making my own "trunk lid". Really just needed to cut a piece of (treated) plywood to fit the area between the back seat and the tailgate, cover it with something that kinda sorta went with the interior, and secure it to the little tie-downs in the back. As long as the tailgate was locked it would be fairly secure since you get to the rear seat release from the rear.


----------



## jeb6294

snickerd3 said:


> i like my pilot and the new design isn't horrible, but I have been eyeing full crew cab pickup trucks too.  Soooo torn!  logistically the truck makes no sense with carseat/booster seats, and I will need the extra row of seats in the pilot as the kiddos get older to lug their friends around too.   Maybe the next next car will be a truck


My crew cab has tons of legroom in the back. We're down to one booster seat now, but there's plenty of room for a car seat. When we went camping this summer all 5 of us were in the truck and three dogs were in the back (truck has a cap) and we were fine...I wouldn't want to go across the country that way, but we were fine. The only thing I really wish my truck had is the window in the back so we could have fed some A/C back to the dogs, but it actually stayed pretty cool back there with the vents open.

Personally, that's all the room we need. I don't want to become the taxi service for everyone else's kids. If you really wanted room for one more, you can go for the flip down console up front. My current truck has a built in console, but my previous truck, you could flip the console up and have a legit 3 seats up front and 3 across in the rear.


----------



## snickerd3

never a good sign when the tire sales guy on phone says Holy Shit (out loud) when the price of the tire you are inquiring out pops up on the screen.  Soon followed by the oh sorry I didn't mean to say that out loud.  Like they have never sold that expensive of a tire before...

stupid nail in the sidewall...


----------



## Road Guy

Why does this happen so quick?


----------



## MA_PE

What you're only at 600RPMs nothing very quick going on there.

You drive all over creation, of course the miles rack up.  Nothing a nice bonus can't cure.


----------



## Dleg

Give up skiing and hiking.  

So I bought an air compressor and an impact wrench this weekend, mostly for filling tires and removing/tightening lug nuts.  There were almost a dozen different impact wrneches to choose from, $30 to $300.  I picked one that was on sale for $75.  It's a half inch drive but a very compact body.  It says to run it at no greater than 90 psi input pressure, so that's what I set my compressor outlet regulator to (a 6 gallon pancakce style compressor). Well, it couldn't remove lug nuts nor could it tighten them anywhere near what I could provide by hand.

So my question is, did I buy "too small" an impact wrench?  Or can I improve it with more adjustment?  I noticed that when I pull the trigger on the wrench, the pressure at the compressor drops below 90.  Should I increase it to well above 90 when static, to provide 90 when it's running?  

I also used the hose that came with the compressor.  It's not very large, so maybe that's the limiting factor?
 At any rate, just wodnering if I need to return the wrench and get a bigger/more expensive one.


----------



## Supe

Yes and yes.  You will get considerable pressure drop when you hit the go button, and volume plays a big part in it, especially if its those shitty coils of air hose.


----------



## starquest

Dleg said:


> Give up skiing and hiking.
> 
> So I bought an air compressor and an impact wrench this weekend, mostly for filling tires and removing/tightening lug nuts.  There were almost a dozen different impact wrneches to choose from, $30 to $300.  I picked one that was on sale for $75.  It's a half inch drive but a very compact body.  It says to run it at no greater than 90 psi input pressure, so that's what I set my compressor outlet regulator to (a 6 gallon pancakce style compressor). Well, it couldn't remove lug nuts nor could it tighten them anywhere near what I could provide by hand.
> 
> So my question is, did I buy "too small" an impact wrench?  Or can I improve it with more adjustment?  I noticed that when I pull the trigger on the wrench, the pressure at the compressor drops below 90.  Should I increase it to well above 90 when static, to provide 90 when it's running?
> 
> I also used the hose that came with the compressor.  It's not very large, so maybe that's the limiting factor?
> At any rate, just wodnering if I need to return the wrench and get a bigger/more expensive one.


Here is the gun I have; IR 2235TiMax .  It's expensive but I have nothing but good things to say about this thing.   I feel you get what you pay for when it comes to pneumatic tools. 

I have a decent compressor running on 220V with about 13cfm at 180psi (I regulate down to 120psi as a result of my dryer system/traps).  However I have used this on small pancake style compressors before and it spins the lug nuts off with ease.


----------



## Dleg

Thanks for the advice - based on what you say, i will return the small gun and look at getting this or a bigger and better one.  Because what's the point in having the compressor, if I'm just using it to fill tires every few months.


----------



## Road Guy

Are you rotating your own tires? or doing your own brakes? I used to do my own brake pads but just lost the energy to give up a Saturday to do that anymore.. That's why I bought the impact hammer originally, I rotated the tires on my older jeep but even with an impact wrench and a hydraulic jack it was still a PIA considering they usually do it for free where you buy your tires..


----------



## knight1fox3

Dleg said:


> Thanks for the advice - based on what you say, i will return the small gun and look at getting this or a bigger and better one.  Because what's the point in having the compressor, if I'm just using it to fill tires every few months.


So size does matter then? :dunno:


----------



## Supe

Dleg said:


> Thanks for the advice - based on what you say, i will return the small gun and look at getting this or a bigger and better one.  Because what's the point in having the compressor, if I'm just using it to fill tires every few months.


There is absolutely no reason that any 1/2" impact gun won't handle lug nuts.  You need to bump up your air pressure before you do anything.


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

I have a "POS" 1/2" air impact wench, and I always have to pre-loosen lug nuts with a 1/2" socket wrench and a 18" Cheater bar.


----------



## Road Guy

Honestly for just normal garage stuff at home I just always use the four-way lug wrench


----------



## Dleg

^I really don't have that much problem using it, but now I have the compressor so I might as well get the impact wrench working.  I'll try bumping up the air pressure first.



Road Guy said:


> Are you rotating your own tires? or doing your own brakes? I used to do my own brake pads but just lost the energy to give up a Saturday to do that anymore.. That's why I bought the impact hammer originally, I rotated the tires on my older jeep but even with an impact wrench and a hydraulic jack it was still a PIA considering they usually do it for free where you buy your tires..


Changing between summer and winter tires, mostly.  I would have just stuck with the 4-way lug wrench, but after driving all over town trying to find a gas station that had a convenient air station, and then freezing my ass off putting air in the one I found (which required fitty cent), I decided I might as well get a compressor for the convenience of it. Years ago - no make that 3 decades ago - I worked in a Target auto shop (when those existed) and got real used to using an impact wrench to remove wheels.  Just the sound of an impact wrench makes me nostalgic.  All I need now is the smell of that green degreaser powder to clean the shop floor, and "Life in a Northern Town" blasting from a cheap car stereo to really take me back to 1985.


----------



## Road Guy

The Salvation Army band played......


----------



## snickerd3

driving on 4 full size tires again is great!!!  Holy shit the road rage I was victim too this week while driving the interstate with a doughnut tire.  compact spare = slower speed.  I made sure I stayed in the slow lane and in higher traffic i put the hazard lights on but I was still getting honked at, flipped off, and being blinded by people driving up right behind me and flashing their brights.  The spare was on the rear so it was completely obvious my car was crippled.


----------



## snickerd3

Bonus from buying from discount tire was i got a $103 credit  (~55% discount)for the tred still left on the tire that got a nail in sidewall.


----------



## snickerd3

anyone know a good place to get an inexpensive wheel?  I want to turn one of the tires i replaced last week into a full size spare.  Discount tires was quoting $120 as the cheapest they had.  I didn't want to spend that much.


----------



## envirotex

Costco or Sam's.  Or craigslist.


----------



## thekzieg

Junk yard?


----------



## Road Guy

www.quadratec has some black out "rims" for around $59.

Also see if you have a 4 Wheel Drive Parts store close by to you, they also have a similar rim for around $50 bucks- and they can mount your spare tire to it.  They work on just about any truck or SUV.  I had them put a set of new rims and tires on my durange even though it wasn't "lifted"


----------



## knight1fox3

Saw this little gem on my walk to lunch yesterday. Woody Harrelson must be in town...







Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


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## MA_PE

I refuse to believe that those are attached.


----------



## Road Guy

I'll snag a pic next time I am up that way but along I-70 in the mountains there is an old yellow firebird that not only has a snow plow but it's also been converted to 4WD...


----------



## knight1fox3

Hey it worked on the '73 Charger from the movie Out Cold... :dunno:


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> I'll snag a pic next time I am up that way but along I-70 in the mountains there is an old yellow firebird that not only has a snow plow but it's also been converted to 4WD...


you mean like this?  This one is from Copper Mountain in CO back-in the day


----------



## Road Guy

it may be the same one    you can see it from google street view, but today it is painted yellow, but its the same vehicle..


----------



## MA_PE

The red one looks like a Camaro to me.  I don't see any fender vents (visible on the Trans Am) and the rear spoiler doesn't wrap on the sides like the Firebird one.

I doubt it's the same car as the red one is a truck frame with the plow attached and the Camaro body bolted to the truck frame.  I believe the Trans Am Plow that I posted was just a promotional vehicle and has the plow affixed to the car but the plow doesn't actually work.


----------



## Road Guy

when I drive by doing 70 mph in fleeting snow I cant really tell the difference between a Camaro and a Firebird?

I thought it was usually the firebirds had a driver with a Mullet and the Camaro drivers had the wife beater t-shirts with mustard stains?


----------



## Supe

Rear spoiler/side profile is definite Camaro.

And as an owner of a 2nd gen Firebird, I can confirm that you have those mixed up.  Camaro drivers have the mullet, Firebird drivers have the beaters.  IROC-Z 3rd gen drivers have both.


----------



## Road Guy

you can see the classy area this Camaro / firebird /trans am resides...


----------



## Supe

Come on, RG.  I'm sure the Great Value brand mustard is just as good as the fancy kind.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> Rear spoiler/side profile is definite Camaro.
> 
> And as an owner of a 2nd gen Firebird, I can confirm that you have those mixed up.  Camaro drivers have the mullet, Firebird drivers have the beaters.  IROC-Z 3rd gen drivers have both.


I owned a 2nd gen Firebird for 32 years and never had a mullet (or wore beaters for that matter).  IROC-Z and 3rd gen Firebird GTAs drivers have both.  4th gen Firebirds are just plain cool!

And Gulden's spicy mustard is the way to go.


----------



## Supe

Oh, come on, the V6 Turbo GTA's are totally excluded from that population.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> Oh, come on, the V6 Turbo GTA's are totally excluded from that population.


Absolutely.  However, I'm not sure if all the 1989 20th anniversary Trans Ams (the only cars produced with the Buick Turbo V6's) were GTAs or not .  Mullet/beater folks would not about that.


----------



## Supe

All TTA's were GTA's (in body), but not all GTA's were TTA's.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> All TTA's were GTA's (in body), but not all GTA's were TTA's.


Understood but all TTA (Turbo Trans Am) were limited edition 20th anniversary cars.


----------



## Road Guy

The Camaro song


----------



## Road Guy

well I needed new shoes for the jeep and I didn't really have $3 grand to pay for the lift yet so I was looking around to try and find 3 tires that matched my spare (new tire BFG Mud Terrain Tires)

I had had a bad experience with some tires from Discount Tire back in Atlanta but they were basically the only people in the state that had this same size tire (they are normally $250 tires) So I gave them another shot since I was trying to save the expense of buying the 4th tire.. I have to say they were good to deal with, and since jeep isn't using the Mud Terrains as the stock tire anymore they were fairly cheap ($185/tire).. I was making the rounds and these were literally the only ones I could find in state.  But they had them on in 30 minutes.. I was actually impressed..

Sucks I have already put so many miles on the jeep but I am hoping this will give me 2 years to squirrel some money away for the lift and the 35's...  so now it can start snowing... surprisingly the mud terrain tires do really well in the snow, but they do really bad in the rain (you defin have to break early) but luckily it doesn't rain that much here..


----------



## FLBuff PE

What is this "rain" of which you speak? It only mists here. In GA and FL, now THAT was rain. When you can't see your hand in front of your face.


----------



## Road Guy

Y'all remember a few years ago I was I Bitching about the wheels on my old tahoe? One of you'se gave me some great advice to just spray paint them.... well maybe I plasti dipped them 

Before:







After:






(I had to stuff rags behind the wheels so it didn't get all over the brakes...


----------



## MA_PE

very gangsta.


----------



## MetsFan

Looks great!


----------



## Road Guy

now that I see it in the daylight I need to also plasti-dip the chrome trim around the body in a few places or else its just not gonna look right...


----------



## Supe

Just pop some chrome lugnuts on and call it a day.  Or add some of those sweet stick-on autozone portholes to the center caps.  You can tell the casual onlooker that its for brake cooling.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Y'all remember a few years ago I was I Bitching about the wheels on my old tahoe? One of you'se gave me some great advice to just spray paint them.... well maybe I plasti dipped them
> 
> (I had to stuff rags behind the wheels so it didn't get all over the brakes...


What for...the brakes will rub it off.

I forget where I got my new tires for the truck, but 285 75R17's were not cheap....especially 10-ply since it's an F350.  Looked around and found the best deal online and then went to Tire Discounters when they showed up.  Only charged $100 to install them.


----------



## Road Guy

Supe said:


> Just pop some chrome lugnuts on and call it a day.  Or add some of those sweet stick-on autozone portholes to the center caps.  You can tell the casual onlooker that its for brake cooling.


If I had the patience I would do the entire car - I hate the green color (it screams late 90's hunter green)  but its my 17 year olds daily driver and we use it for family trips / snow season.  I don't care too much about the appearance but the more I look at it the more I want to change out the chrome trim, I think that will make it look like it just came off the used car lot with some low profile wheels..


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> If I had the patience I would do the entire car - I hate the green color (it screams late 90's hunter green)  but its my 17 year olds daily driver and we use it for family trips / snow season.  I don't care too much about the appearance but the more I look at it the more I want to change out the chrome trim, I think that will make it look like it just came off the used car lot with some low profile wheels..


If you want cheap and long lasting - go pick up some John Deere Blitz Black paint and primer.  Doesn't chalk up like primer and doesn't rub off/blister up like plastidip.  Thats what I did my racecar in.


----------



## Road Guy

not even a week into it and part of the plasti dip has already peeled away    oh well...... it looked like shit anyways......


----------



## Supe

Surprised it came off that quickly.  Did you use a degreaser/cleaner before hand?


----------



## Road Guy

its only coming of the "center disc" area- I wonder if I should have roughened it up with sandpaper?   But I did clean them with denatured alcohol to try and get any residue off them..

I need to just hit up some salvage yards and get a new set of tires. its not a bad looking vehicle, I just hate the shitty way the wheels look..


----------



## MA_PE

is the center piece a separate plastic piece or it is part of the wheel?  you might see if someone local can media blast them before you paint/coat them.


----------



## Supe

If just the center caps, I would hit it with a satin black wheel paint from Autozone and call it good.


----------



## jeb6294

No way it should be coming off that fast. Did you do several very light coats? The wheels on my old truck were Plastidipped when I got it and it was still on there when I traded it in 2 years later.

The license plate bracket and frame I put on the motorcycle were both chrome but I wanted to do the bracket in flat black so it would blend in more. I used Plastidip instead of powdercoating it so I could see how I liked it first. The plan was to take it back off and get it coated during the winter sometime if I liked it to make it permanent but so far it's been holding up well enough that I haven't had to worry about it yet. The Plastidip went right on the chrome without any scuffing.


----------



## Road Guy

its only coming off the center "disc" area around the lugnuts.. I did probably 4 coats?  I think maybe it got driven to soon (around 24 hours) or maybe the disc vibrates a little more than the wheels..

I did the mirrors and some other items on the car and it has held up good..  My kid has it today but I'll try and get  a pic..


----------



## Supe

This weekend marked my season finale in the Porsche.

Getting to Savannah was quite the adventure.  I see smoke briefly coming from the trailer tire in South Carolina, followed by a blowout and chunks flying everywhere.  I pull over to the side, and grab my jack and T bar wrench, both of which were last minute additions to the truck, and remove the offending tire.  Of course, upon installation of the new one, I came to a nasty realization - my spare has the wrong bolt pattern.

99% of these trailers use the same bolt pattern.  Mine of course, fell into the 1% category.  My buddy circled around, and his too did not fit.

The next 10 minutes consisted of me backing up slowly in the shoulder and pulling off at a busy ramp onto a main road in South Carolina, dragging a brake drum and sparking a quarter mile to the nearest discount tire.  They did not have a new wheel that would fit, so not taking any chances and having planned on springtime replacements, I had 4 new trailer tires mounted a measly 2.5 hours later...

Rest of the tow was uneventful.  The Porsche behaved mostly well, with only an offending bolt on the alternator bracket causing any trouble.  With tires that had been heat cycled out of their prime and an engine smoking like my late aunt, I managed to break into the 1:2X's on my final run Sunday morning, spinning out only once over the course of the weekend.  That was enough for me to wrap up second place points for the event, and a 2016 championship to back up my 2015 championship.  

This winter, the focus will be on getting my RX7 up and running.  I expect 2017 to be primarily a testing/development year, but will see how the proposed schedule looks.  If it looks good, I may run the SEDIV championship again this year, albeit going after a championship in a much faster unlimited class.  If it looks less than stellar, I may split my time racing between the southeast and Pennsylvania Hillclimb schedules.  If I don't get the car finished though, I won't be doing much of either!


----------



## MA_PE

Sorry about the distractions but congrats on the championship!  champagne and women to the winner's circle!


----------



## Supe

Thanks!  There was no champagne or winners circle.  There was a rather suspect soul food buffet at a seedy South Carolina gas station on the way home, and my current bout of nausea is reminding me how terrible a decision that may have been.


----------



## knight1fox3

Did you do a back flip off the car after you finished the race? :dunno:


----------



## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> Did you do a back flip off the car after you finished the race? :dunno:


1) It wouldn't support my weight.

2) It takes every ounce of my being just to fit my fat ass through the window getting it off the trailer.


----------



## Road Guy

so what's the best way to disguise a rear main seal leak on my 2002 tahoe  that I now need to detail and get on craigslist asap!!!??!!!??!!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

FFFUUUUUUUCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

Lucas makes some pretty good products. I have used their power steering conditioner and it seemed to work.


----------



## Road Guy

So I drain the regular oil and add this stuff? Worth a shot....


----------



## Ship Wreck PE

I think you can just add a quart and it will cause the rubber seals to expand.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Have you checked to see just how expensive it is to replace the seal?  I don't know about your 2002 model but that seal could be replaced without pulling the engine in older GM small blocks.


----------



## Road Guy

$850 bucks.....

I already sunk 1600 into it this summer--- just tired of putting any more $$$&amp; into it....


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Understood.  Looking about the same with my wife's Liberty.  She still likes the car but it's starting to eat cash.


----------



## MA_PE

rented a 2016 Caddy XTS for a few days.  What a nice car!


----------



## Road Guy

Road Guy said:


> when we thought the wifes car was dead we looked at Pilots, I really like them but man they are proud of them..$$
> 
> wife is actually wanting now to get a Tacoma 4 door so she can move around in the snow easier.. of course those are not cheap either..
> 
> So I am not sure if I updated the wifes prius drama..
> 
> 
> last month her (fat ass) parents came to visit, they drove the prius to Aspen to "look at the one color fall leaf in CO"
> 
> Prius battery (hybrid ) appears to die in Aspen
> 
> Tow car back to Denver - paid for that AAA membership for sure
> 
> _Sweat having to get rid of a useless car for a while_
> 
> Learn that the hybdrid battery is OK but 2 years ago the first hybrid battery died, it was still under warranty so Toyota replaced, but they did not replace the fans that cool the battery, so the battery was "fine" but shut down driving up the mountains.  Toyota actually owned up to it and gave us a new hybrid battery and replaced the fans, have to admit I was a little shocked they went that far.
> 
> So now we are making a plan to sell the prius since it has new hybrid battery that "should" be good for 4 more years, but were just trying to be extremely picky selling it since there are ALOT of them in this area..


I have good news! Almost as good as the PE results coming in tomorrow    -  I no longer have a F'n Prius in the driveway / garage.  After getting the new hybrid battery we put that sucker up on craigslist and took $6K from some hippies in Boulder for it. That was pretty good money for a 11 year old vehicle, but only around 85K miles.

Sad news is now we have a _new to us_ / used car payment.  Wife didn't really like the Pilot, I was surprised I though she would have liked them, but she went and got a 2011 Toyota Highlander, but only 50K miles though.. (I think its the step down from the 4 runner) but this one has a 3rd row seat and the middle was bucket seats which is a big plus..  But the price was right for her....Our main goal was just not to have a $700 car payment..

I am still stuck with the leaking oil Tahoe for a while until I figure out what to do with that, but now we don't have to drive it up to the mtns so much...


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> After getting the new hybrid battery we put that sucker up on craigslist and took $6K from some hippies in Boulder for it.


Did they pay you with a wrinkled up paper bag full of 10's? :dunno:


----------



## thekzieg

It's now safe to say: Prius drivers are the worst.


----------



## Road Guy

it is so funny how everyone hates that car, even if I am doing 85 on the interstate people would get on your ass and basically flip you off (even here with too many hippies in this state)

once my wife stopped to help a friend whose car broke down in the snow and someone drove by and flipped her off and laughed at her cause they thought she was stuck.. people are so fucked...


----------



## thekzieg

Maybe it's different in CO, but in WA the Prius drivers are the ones cutting people off and riding asses. They're just unreasonably aggressive/careless. I've narrowly avoided being hit (both as a pedestrian and while driving) more times than I can count. And there's always that air of pretension about them...just the worst.


----------



## Supe

I bet RG just likes smelling his own farts.


----------



## Road Guy

even with Boulder the Prius owners our outmatched by the sheer number of trucks from the Oil &amp; Gas Industry, General CO country folks, construction, etc..


----------



## csb

Most of our local Prius drivers seem to be in their 70s and up, making them the road hazard folks.


----------



## csb

Also, I once almost got run over by a Prius in Boulder. I yelled into their open window and they had to sit at the red light as I went on about their shitty driving.


----------



## goodal

In case anyone's interested, I have a '06 highlander hybrid limited with a bunch of miles for sale.  Replaced it with a '13 Explorer.  It was quite the upgrade.  Explorer is the limited AWD version and we love it.  First car I've owned with bluetooth.  I'm afraid I will have to upgrade the G35 this year too.  Its got 190k miles.


----------



## Road Guy

we are done with hybrids ...


----------



## goodal

Yea, me too.  Not that there was really anything wrong with it, but everything about it was weird and for the SUV the minimal increase in mpg didn't justify the "weirdness".


----------



## csb

Yeah, and then it leaves you on the side of the road. 

(not bitter)


----------



## Ble_PE

csb said:


> Yeah, and then it leaves you on the side of the road.
> 
> (not bitter)


Wait, are we still talking about cars?


----------



## FLBuff PE

csb said:


> Yeah, and then it leaves you on the side of the road.
> 
> (not bitter)


Hey guess what kind of vehicle my in-laws inherited from my grandfather-in-law? I warned them of what happened to you, but they are driving it till it dies.


----------



## Road Guy

www.fordescapesdieboards.com


----------



## kevo_55

Riddle me this: 

The wife's car got new tires at Costco a few months ago. At Costco they fill the tires with nitro.

Earlier this week (when it started getting cold) the TPS went off.

Granted we will be taking it back this weekend to get it checked out but I thought nitro (if it doesn't leak out) won't have the pressure changes as air would in the winter.


----------



## snickerd3

That's what they say, but I noticed that too when I had nitro filled tires.


----------



## csb

FLBuff PE said:


> Hey guess what kind of vehicle my in-laws inherited from my grandfather-in-law? I warned them of what happened to you, but they are driving it till it dies.


Tell them to be careful near Breckenridge. I hear the ghost of a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid haunts that section of I-70.


----------



## knight1fox3

kevo_55 said:


> Riddle me this:
> 
> The wife's car got new tires at Costco a few months ago. At Costco they fill the tires with nitro.
> 
> Earlier this week (when it started getting cold) the TPS went off.
> 
> Granted we will be taking it back this weekend to get it checked out but I thought nitro (if it doesn't leak out) won't have the pressure changes as air would in the winter.





snickerd3 said:


> That's what they say, but I noticed that too when I had nitro filled tires.


Same here so I just quit using nitro. IMO, the TPS sensor design is a bit too sensitive and should be using some sort of averaging algorithm.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Filling your tires with Nitrogen is BS.  

First of all, air is 78% Nitrogen in the first place, so ideally, you'd only be replacing 22% of Oxygen and other trace gases.  

Second, it is nearly impossible to purge all of the air out of the tire before re-filling with Nitrogen, so there will still be a couple of percent contamination with other gasses.  At best, you are increasing the concentration of Nitrogen in the tires by 20%.

Finally, the N2 molecule is 300 pm in diameter, while O2 is 292 pm in diameter.  That ~3% difference in molecule size is going to make very little difference in the permeability of the gas through the rubber, and if you have a leak somewhere in the valve stem or tire seal, it will make no difference at all.


----------



## snickerd3

wilheldp_PE said:


> Filling your tires with Nitrogen is BS.
> 
> First of all, air is 78% Nitrogen in the first place, so ideally, you'd only be replacing 22% of Oxygen and other trace gases.
> 
> Second, it is nearly impossible to purge all of the air out of the tire before re-filling with Nitrogen, so there will still be a couple of percent contamination with other gasses.  At best, you are increasing the concentration of Nitrogen in the tires by 20%.
> 
> Finally, the N2 molecule is 300 pm in diameter, while O2 is 292 pm in diameter.  That ~3% difference in molecule size is going to make very little difference in the permeability of the gas through the rubber, and if you have a leak somewhere in the valve stem or tire seal, it will make no difference at all.


You pretty much listed my thoughts but most people's eye start to gloss over when I get into a chemistry lesson so I didn't go there


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> You pretty much listed my thoughts but most people's eye start to gloss over when I get into a chemistry lesson so I didn't go there


Not on EB.com they don't! That stuff is interesting!


----------



## jeb6294

The truck has tire pressure sensors, but I shut them off with the tuner.  I got an error message one day saying a sensor was bad.  You can recalibrate them, but that involves deflating the tires one by one and then reinflating them.  And that's assuming you just have a sensor that got "lost" by the system.  The other down side is that, being an F350, Ford says the tire pressure is supposed to be up at 80psi.  That's great if you're carrying a load, but the ride is nicer if you lower it down to ~60psi which is low enough to set off the alarms.


----------



## Road Guy

I pay the few extra bucks for nitrox in my scuba tanks because it shortens me intervals between dives, but I wouldn't squander $ putting it in my tires..


----------



## Supe

I have multiple dead sensors.  The batteries in them are rarely good for 3 years it seems.  I just ignore the light since its not needed to pass inspection.


----------



## Ble_PE

Road Guy said:


> I pay the few extra bucks for nitrox in my scuba tanks because it shortens *me* intervals between dives, but I wouldn't squander $ putting it in my tires..


Don't look now, but I think your dives are turning you into a pirate.


----------



## Road Guy

can someone tell me the purpose of this setup?

I see this all over town?  Isn't the purpose of having a truck to carry shit in?

not my photo , cant ever get the camera out in time when I see something similar???


----------



## snickerd3

just a fancy lighting rack?


----------



## Supe

To look like a chode.


----------



## mudpuppy

You put your weeeeed in there!


----------



## snickerd3

hippie car seat for the kiddos???


----------



## MA_PE

Isn't that a George Bush dog crate?


----------



## envirotex

Some place to strap your YETI 110 while the ladies have a dance party in the bed?


----------



## FLBuff PE

^I think Tex has the right idea. Except line the bed with plastic trash bags and fill it with water.


----------



## knight1fox3

2017 TESLA MODEL S P100D FIRST TEST: A NEW RECORD — 0-60 MPH IN 2.28 SECONDS


----------



## MA_PE

that's some scary s$%t!  somebody's gonna die!


----------



## Flyer_PE

^While I can appreciate the raw performance and the technology, I still prefer cars like this:


----------



## wilheldp_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> 2017 TESLA MODEL S P100D FIRST TEST: A NEW RECORD — 0-60 MPH IN 2.28 SECONDS


Mine looks exactly like that...except it was about half the price.


----------



## MA_PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> Mine looks exactly like that...except it was about half the price.


Dee Snider from Twisted Sister had Counting Cars customize his Tesla S.  They gave it some nice paint graphics and new wheels.  They admitted they had no idea about the mechanicals of the car and during the show Dee was screwing with them by making the car do things using the cell phone app while the car was in the shop.  It was likely staged but pretty funny.


----------



## envirotex

Flyer_PE said:


> ^While I can appreciate the raw performance and the technology, I still prefer cars like this:


????


----------



## Road Guy

so as someone over 40 I am not supposed to like "new things" but I was needing to change the oil in the jeep and they have the new "euro style" oil filters that you change from the top of the engine and you don't have to play the game of unscrew the hot oil filter and turn it right-side up before it all spills over the driveway game.. have to say If I could find an easy way to rotate my own tires I may never have to go back to have someone else change my oil ever again, it was "easy peasy"


----------



## Supe

My Saturn is like that.  I used to have to drive around to about five stores before I could find an oil filter.  Now Advance usually carries about two brands in stock.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> so as someone over 40 I am not supposed to like "new things" but I was needing to change the oil in the jeep and they have the new "euro style" oil filters that you change from the top of the engine and you don't have to play the game of unscrew the hot oil filter and turn it right-side up before it all spills over the driveway game.. have to say If I could find an easy way to rotate my own tires I may never have to go back to have someone else change my oil ever again, it was "easy peasy"


Well of course it was better it was "euro-style"


----------



## Road Guy

So it's a free loader who can't move out of their parents house until they are 30?


----------



## jeb6294

I did the oil in the motorcycle this weekend.  Was pretty easy with the Harbor Freight jack, but who the hell designed this thing with three drain plugs?!?!  At least the oil filter is mounted right up front and easy to get to.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> So it's a free loader who can't move out of their parents house until they are 30?


If the parents tolerate it, why not stay at home?  It's a hell of a lot cheaper than paying one's own way.


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> My Saturn


Found your problem. :thumbs:


----------



## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> Found your problem. :thumbs:


I'm sorry.  It's technically a rebadged Opel, which means it's European, so you're _completely_ wrong by default.


----------



## Road Guy

Id like to create a brand of car called "Uranus" 

actually I think its already in existence (KIA) .....


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Speaking of Kia, we bought a new one over the Xmas holidays.

The new Cerato (Forte in the US) is actually really nice. Kia genuinely stepped up their game. Hard to find a car with all the bells and whistles for this price.


----------



## Supe

So that's the new Bee?


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> So that's the new Bee *Butterfly*?


Fixt.


----------



## Road Guy

I couldn't ever drive around in a vehicle that read "Killed in Action" on it


----------



## csb

I bought a raffle ticket for a car.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

That's the wife's car.

Bee is still parked in the garage.


----------



## MA_PE

a garage there or here?  Did you have it transported to NZ?


----------



## snickerd3

from FB, the Bee is in NZ.


----------



## knight1fox3

Due for an upgrade on my 2004 Infiniti G35 soon. Got my eye on this, but it's pricey!






2017 Range Rover Evoque - Crossover SUV


----------



## leggo PE

I came to the realization over the past few months that as nice as it would be to have a new Subaru that has bluetooth capabilities and whatnot, the guy and I really have no reason to get rid of our 2010 Subaru Impreza Hatchback with sunroof and seat warmers (more necessary when I was living in New England than now in CA) that has less than 60k miles on it.

I will still daydream about a 2017 Subaru Crosstrek, however!


----------



## Supe

Add head unit with bluetooth capabilities + ??? = profit


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> a garage there or here?  Did you have it transported to NZ?






snickerd3 said:


> from FB, the Bee is in NZ.


Yep, here in NZ


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> Add head unit with bluetooth capabilities + ??? = profit


That's what we did with my wife's car.



knight1fox3 said:


> Due for an upgrade on my 2004 Infiniti G35 soon. Got my eye on this, but it's pricey!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2017 Range Rover Evoque - Crossover SUV




It's really not terribly pricey compared to other SUVs, but aren't Land Rovers notoriously unreliable?


----------



## Road Guy

I sat in one when we were car shopping last year, I have to admit (the land rover) felt really comfy and ultra stylish, but as Austin Powers said "That type of thing is not my bag, baby"

If you just want Bluetooth for a few hundred bucks you can get an upgraded radio with all that fairly cheap. I put on of those blue tooth hands free jobs in my old 2002 Tahoe and its like being in a new car    well okay maybe not, but at least I don't have to run the cassette tape thing to my phone to play music


----------



## knight1fox3

mudpuppy said:


> It's really not terribly pricey compared to other SUVs, but aren't Land Rovers notoriously unreliable?


Just liked the way it looked. Still need to do a bit of research. Which reminds me, does anyone have a Consumer Reports account I could "borrow"?


----------



## leggo PE

Good suggestions about the bluetooth stuff. May be worth looking into. Or maybe I just want a new car for the idea of having a new car, since my car was used when I bought it. Either way, I'm likely to buy a house before I get a new car, and where I live, I'm not likely to buy a house for, oh, at least five years!


----------



## MetsFan

> 31 minutes ago, knight1fox3 said:
> Just liked the way it looked. Still need to do a bit of research. Which reminds me, does anyone have a Consumer Reports account I could "borrow"?


Really fox?

https://www.google.com/search?q=consumer+reports+library+login

  

I've had good luck with the Washington County Library login.


----------



## knight1fox3

MetsFan said:


> Really fox?
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=consumer+reports+library+login
> 
> 
> 
> I've had good luck with the Washington County Library login.


Ya sorry, I don't search for hacked logins while at work  . That time is strictly reserved for spamming EB.com.

If you'd like more information about clicking links from EB.com, please contact @Ramnares P.E.


----------



## Ramnares P.E.

I do my best to keep EB safe by weeding out the spam links.


----------



## envirotex

mudpuppy said:


> That's what we did with my wife's car.
> 
> It's really not terribly pricey compared to other SUVs, but aren't Land Rovers notoriously unreliable?


Depends on the year it was made and the Rover model...Evoques actually have a pretty good track record.


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> 6 hours ago, mudpuppy said: That's what we did with my wife's car.
> It's really not terribly pricey compared to other SUVs, but aren't Land Rovers notoriously unreliable?
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the year it was made and the Rover model...Evoques actually have a pretty good track record.
Click to expand...

This is good to know! Thanks

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## willsee

I'd love a Rover


----------



## MetsFan

> 15 hours ago, knight1fox3 said:
> Ya sorry, I don't search for hacked logins while at work  . That time is strictly reserved for spamming EB.com.
> 
> If you'd like more information about clicking links from EB.com, please contact @Ramnares P.E.
> 
> 
> 1


Ha, but talking about Kodi and torrents is ok?  I don't know if I'd consider the library logins a hack since they are provided free to their patrons.  If it makes you feel better, go to your local library and ask them for the CR login.  

Since you're looking at the Evoque, have you looked at the GLA?  The size and style are pretty similar.  Or a used CTS V wagon because 550HP!


----------



## jeb6294

MetsFan said:


> Ha, but talking about Kodi and torrents is ok?


Those two don't go together....

If you want to add Bluetooth cheap, I used to have one of those transmitters in my car.  Wasn't as nice as a built-in system, but it did alright and you can get one for $20.


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> This is good to know! Thanks
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


Check the ratings on edmunds.com.  Lot's of discussion there from actual owners...It seems that there are a few issues with them that have been reported since when I was looking at them. 

Carandriver.com is good, also but you have to keep in mind that those are paid reviews.



MetsFan said:


> Ha, but talking about Kodi and torrents is ok?  I don't know if I'd consider the library logins a hack since they are provided free to their patrons.  If it makes you feel better, go to your local library and ask them for the CR login.
> 
> Since you're looking at the Evoque, have you looked at the GLA?  The size and style are pretty similar.  Or a used CTS V wagon because 550HP!


Speaking of the car and driver reviews...the GLA is #3 in their rankings for the small luxury SUVs. 

http://www.caranddriver.com/mercedes-benz/gla-class

It's probably what we will end up getting when we finally decide to have a car payment again.  I REALLY like the AMG version of this car.


----------



## envirotex

Not sure if I've posted this pic before, but this is our Rover...


----------



## MA_PE

St. Pat's Day....Is that a Wild Irish Rover?


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> Not sure if I've posted this pic before, but this is our Rover...
> 
> View attachment 9265


Does it have Bluetooth, a navigation package, and rear back-up camera? If not, deal-breaker.


----------



## envirotex

knight1fox3 said:


> Does it have Bluetooth, a navigation package, and rear back-up camera? If not, deal-breaker.


I can arrange to have all of those things added for you.  Plus it has a PTO generator.  And it's a diesel.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

envirotex said:


> Check the ratings on edmunds.com.  Lot's of discussion there from actual owners...It seems that there are a few issues with them that have been reported since when I was looking at them.
> 
> Carandriver.com is good, also but you have to keep in mind that those are paid reviews.
> 
> Speaking of the car and driver reviews...the GLA is #3 in their rankings for the small luxury SUVs.
> 
> http://www.caranddriver.com/mercedes-benz/gla-class
> 
> It's probably what we will end up getting when we finally decide to have a car payment again.  I REALLY like the AMG version of this car.


We were looking at the GLA's last year. They are great little SUV's. I really liked the AMG's power and handling, but the thing sounded like a used Civic with a cheap aftermarket exhaust.


----------



## knight1fox3

Here's a modification for anyone that doesn't like being stuck in rush-hour traffic:


----------



## MA_PE

All the cars need to be pretyy in line and no adjacent vehicles in order for that to work.  I calling BS.  I think it's staged.


----------



## Supe

Got a bunch done on the RX7 this weekend.  Brakes are done (again), water pump back on (had to weld an extension onto it since the hose was hitting the new crank trigger), spark plugs are in (had to drill and turn down a standard spark plug socket to fit past the headers), cooling system buttoned up, and oil lines are in.  Ended up becoming an Amsoil dealer to save money.  Fresh fluids for the car ran me nearly $300!


----------



## Supe

Car is sitting back on the ground, finally.  Got fluids in the engine, trans, and diff finally.  Diff has a slight weep - not enough for me to care about until a rebuild.  Engine primed successfully (thank God).  Heard a gurgle, only to see my $12/qt oil pissing out the damned oil fitting at the back of the block (the one I NEVER remember to tighten, of course).  That was the only leak, so a big relief there.  

One of the things that had been bothering me was the gas pedal.  I had made a custom stanchion which corrected the height (I now sit way further back), or so I thought.  The height was good, except that it was now too high for me to heel-toe for downshifts, which puts it about 3" or so further down.  So I looked around the garage and found an old hood pin and bung.  A few cuts later, and the pedal was now adjustable by threading in/out, with a couple of jam nuts to hold things in place.  All that's missing is an extra return spring to compensate for the added weight/worn factory spring, but a trip to Lowes should take care of that.  The best part about it is that by removing that stanchion, the pedal is back in its original mounting position, which means I save $200 by not having to buy a new throttle cable and bracket!


----------



## MetsFan

Looks like the person that bought my old car got fed up with it too  hmy:

https://carsdesk.com/Used-2007-BMW-328-for-Sale-in-Shirley-MA-WBAVC93577KX57742-20913646


----------



## MA_PE

so fed up...he ate it.


----------



## Bot-Man

envirotex said:


> Not sure if I've posted this pic before, but this is our Rover...
> 
> View attachment 9265


Those old Rovers are great! I knew a guy that had one. Right hand drive. Told him if he ever decided to sell it to call me immediately. I think his was gasoline though. I saw one a few years later at a small used car lot. Left hand drive and beat to hell. It was still tempting though.


----------



## Bot-Man

A simplified explanation of the rear differential. It caught my interest early on with "Engineers designed..."


----------



## Road Guy

It's good that this dodge owner knows what place their vehicle will earn in the race!


----------



## knight1fox3

@Supe, I found you a different race car...

http://www.caranddriver.com/dodge/challenger-srt-demon








> Dodge’s latest monster muscle car is a mega-power drag-race special, and its name is Demon. Standard Demons come with a supercharged 6.2-liter V-8 that cranks out 808 hp, but owners can increase that to 840 hp with the Demon Crate package. So equipped, the Demon will demolish the quarter-mile in 9.65 seconds at 140 mph, Dodge claims. Weight-saving measures have been taken wherever possible, and even passenger seats are optional. The Demon goes on sale in fall 2017; only 3000 will be produced.


----------



## MA_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> @Supe, I found you a different race car...
> 
> http://www.caranddriver.com/dodge/challenger-srt-demon


Got Demons?

time to call The Exorcist




http://hennesseyperformance.com/vehicles/chevrolet-2/camaro/2017-zl1-camaro/the-exorcist-hpe1000-supercharged-zl1/


----------



## Supe

Lot of money, and a lot of weight.  I went quicker, with less power (naturally aspirated) in a car that was roughly 1/6 the price...


----------



## MA_PE

Supe:  Speaking of heavy cars...... Do you still have that Catalina?


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Supe:  Speaking of heavy cars...... Do you still have that Catalina?


I do!  Its currently sitting in my driveway not running, since the voltage regulator on the alternator is fried and took out the battery.  Just need time and money...


----------



## MA_PE

didn't you have it out for paint?  How'd it come out?


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> didn't you have it out for paint?  How'd it come out?


Not great, not terrible.  A few blemishes here and there and a few spots around the tail lamp he didn't repair properly.  I'll probably make a custom tail panel for it anyways to cover that up and maybe change the tail lights, since they're the ugliest part of that car.


----------



## MA_PE

post some pics.  I love those old ponchos!


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> post some pics.  I love those old ponchos!


Will have to find some at home now that work blocks all the photo and file sharing sites


----------



## Supe

Blew the Porsche up at Carolina Motorsports Park last weekend 

Temp gauge was 280°F when I looked down.  Thinking the head gasket is gone even though cooling system held 20 PSI on a pressure test.  Other possibility is that the remanufactured water pump impeller is slipping on the shaft, but that's a stretch.  It did cool down to slightly above normal temperatures when I wasn't beating on it.  Both water pump and cylinder head require major disassembly anyways, so gasket kit is on order.


----------



## csb

I purchased a beater truck for the summer. It's a 1986 Ford F-250 and it's got four on the floor. It's a beast, but works for getting the nearby hiking trails and getting the kid to OT for surgery rehab. Pretty sure I want to sell it at the end of summer. It's grumbly and fun.


----------



## MA_PE

Winters in WYO is it rusted to s$%t? or don't you guys use salt.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I miss the old farm trucks my uncle had.  4-speed transmissions where 1st gear was a non-synchronized granny low.  The shift knob was marked L-1-2-3.


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> I purchased a beater truck for the summer. It's a 1986 Ford F-250 and it's got four on the floor. It's a beast, but works for getting the nearby hiking trails and getting the kid to OT for surgery rehab. Pretty sure I want to sell it at the end of summer. It's grumbly and fun.


Pics or it didn't happen...


----------



## MA_PE

csb said:


> I purchased a beater truck for the summer. It's a 1986 Ford F-250 and it's got four on the floor. It's a beast, but works for getting the nearby hiking trails and getting the kid to OT for surgery rehab. Pretty sure I want to sell it at the end of summer. *It's grumbly* and fun.


One of the auto commercials here:

auto guy #1 - It's got a nice "rumble" to it.

auto guy #2 - "rumble"?!?  that's an exhaust leak.

:lmao:


----------



## Road Guy

I am guessing its similar to the state north of us but we actually don't use much salt, just lots of chemical deicers... we don't have the tree covers like the east coast so it melts "fairly" quickly once its been plowed.


----------



## csb

MA_PE said:


> Winters in WYO is it rusted to s$%t? or don't you guys use salt.


Keep in mind that the usual humidity level here is maybe 8%. There's just not a lot of moisture. It's got some rust, but pretty good overall. 



Flyer_PE said:


> I miss the old farm trucks my uncle had.  4-speed transmissions where 1st gear was a non-synchronized granny low.  The shift knob was marked L-1-2-3.


I was told, "Don't use 1st unless you're pulling a stump or throwing hay off the back."


----------



## Road Guy

so is it one of the old Ford manual transmission trucks?


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> so is it one of the old Ford manual transmission trucks?


Indeed.


----------



## knight1fox3

csb said:


> Indeed.


Yaaaaassssss!!!!!

Manual transmission, Sony tape deck, "bar buoy" drink holder, what's not to love?! WELCOME TO ATLANTA WYOMING! :thumbs:


----------



## kevo_55

Sweet tape deck!!


----------



## Road Guy

Manuals are the way to go!






No tape deck though


----------



## knight1fox3

I used to have a $hitty Geo Tracker that was a 5-speed manual. It also had 4x4 drive with manual locking hubs (though not sure with an in-line 4 cyl.). If I had more than 4 people in it, the engine would start to stutter and stall as if I was pushing the clutch in and out as we drove. What a pile...LOL. But it did get me home for the holidays while in college.

It also had this horrible rag-top.


----------



## MA_PE

Recently, I've been driving my kids '09 Chevy cobalt with a 5-speed manual.  Reaffirmed why I do not want a manual for my daily driver.


----------



## Flyer_PE

csb said:


> Keep in mind that the usual humidity level here is maybe 8%. There's just not a lot of moisture. It's got some rust, but pretty good overall.
> 
> I was told, "Don't use 1st unless you're pulling a stump or throwing hay off the back."


That was the standard procedure for feeding cows alone with the truck.  Put it in granny low then get out and walk behind it while spreading out the bales.


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> That was the standard procedure for feeding cows alone with the truck.  Put it in granny low then get out and walk behind it while spreading out the bales.


LOL!!!


----------



## Road Guy

CSB- did your truck come with doors?


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> CSB- did your truck come with doors?


Yes, but don't you worry- I've also got those handy vent windows. 



knight1fox3 said:


> I used to have a $hitty Geo Tracker that was a 5-speed manual. It also had 4x4 drive with manual locking hubs (though not sure with an in-line 4 cyl.). If I had more than 4 people in it, the engine would start to stutter and stall as if I was pushing the clutch in and out as we drove. What a pile...LOL. But it did get me home for the holidays while in college.
> 
> It also had this horrible rag-top.


----------



## Flyer_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> That was the standard procedure for feeding cows alone with the truck.  Put it in granny low then get out and walk behind it while spreading out the bales.
> 
> 
> 
> LOL!!!
Click to expand...

^You laugh but that's why we never had automatics in those trucks.  An automatic wouldn't idle up a slight incline without anybody in it to step on the gas a little.


----------



## csb

Yeah, I was speaking from experience.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> Recently, I've been driving my kids '09 Chevy cobalt with a 5-speed manual.  Reaffirmed why I do not want a manual for my daily driver.


You just need a better manual daily driver...


----------



## csb

Dexman PE PMP said:


> You just need a better manual daily driver...


Is that a parking ticket on your hood?


----------



## kevo_55

BURN!


----------



## Supe

Somehow the fan circuit in my racecar is activating the fuel pump circuit.  The two are completely isolated with the exception that they are both connected to the main EFI harness.  The EFI manufacturer says there's no way it should be able to activate that circuit.  Now I get to start looking for shorts in the wiring harnesses


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

csb said:


> Is that a parking ticket on your hood?


Shipping label. That pic was from the day it was delivered in Auckland.


----------



## MA_PE

Have you seen other Camaros over there?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

A handful, but they are not very common. I see quite a few Mustangs because they're available here. Believe it or not, I see more Lamborghinis and Aston Martins than Camaros.


----------



## Supe

Whoo!  Fixed it.  Apparently the ECU doesn't like the grounding situation without the main power harness connected, even though the tech said that shouldn't have been an issue.  Went from seeing 8V with fan on to 3V background current.  Per tech, ignition on/engine off will see 3V on that wire, not zero, so it's good to go.

Only electrocuted myself once.  Thought I flipped the main cutoff switch to off after realizing I flip flopped relay terminals.  I did not.


----------



## MA_PE

nice job.  Electrical bugs can be a real PITA.


----------



## Supe

I think it was the first time in history I actually had the patience to pull out a meter and see WTF was going on.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> Whoo!  Fixed it.  Apparently the ECU doesn't like the grounding situation without the main power harness connected, even though the tech said that shouldn't have been an issue.  Went from seeing 8V with fan on to 3V background current.  Per tech, ignition on/engine off will see 3V on that wire, not zero, so it's good to go.
> 
> Only electrocuted myself once.  Thought I flipped the main cutoff switch to off after realizing I flip flopped relay terminals.  I did not.


It's amazing how many odd things can happen as the result of a bad or misplaced ground connection.


----------



## Supe

Flyer_PE said:


> It's amazing how many odd things can happen as the result of a bad or misplaced ground connection.


And comically enough, I am super diligent about that, because of all the problem grounding issues can cause with EFI.  So much so, that every circuit on the car has a dedicated ground that goes back to a single stud in the cabin, which then goes straight to battery negative.  Nothing is actually grounded to the chassis itself except for the engine block.  This just happened to be the ONLY ground lead not hooked up in the car, because I don't like have the computer connected during testing since small surges can fry a $2000 chunk of non-serviceable ECU.


----------



## knight1fox3

So in the end, resistance is futile. :thumbs:


----------



## Supe

Yep.  Now I get to figure out how the hell to make it all look nice and neat with velcro wire loom.  Then I get to spend 2 days trying to upload new firmware to the ECU and digital dash, neither of which are backwards compatible, so all the old log files for fuel/timing maps, etc. need to be run through some conversion tool on top of it.


----------



## Road Guy

I would just spray all the wires with that plasti dip stuff


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I would just spray all the wires with that plasti dip stuff


I was temped to go with all black or all red for everything.


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> And comically enough, I am super diligent about that, because of all the problem grounding issues can cause with EFI.  So much so, that every circuit on the car has a dedicated ground that goes back to a single stud in the cabin, which then goes straight to battery negative.  Nothing is actually grounded to the chassis itself except for the engine block.  This just happened to be the ONLY ground lead not hooked up in the car, because I don't like have the computer connected during testing since small surges can fry a $2000 chunk of non-serviceable ECU.


Whaddaya know, that ground wire actually does something!


----------



## Supe

Apparently, even though the manufacturer said it shouldn't have mattered!  I blame EE's and their stupid electrons.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Just don't let the magic smoke out. Everything is fixable until that smoke escapes...


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Just don't let the magic smoke out. Everything is fixable until that smoke escapes...


The first ECU I had, they let the smoke out before I even got it.  Was sure glad I spent a few extra dollars to order from a super reputable guy who does R&amp;D for the manufacturer, because they overnighted me a replacement.


----------



## knight1fox3

Rawrrrrr.....Made a purchase yesterday. 







@envirotex

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## MA_PE

Nice.  Good luck with it.

Me too.


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Nice.  Good luck with it.
> 
> Me too.
> 
> View attachment 9766


Cool! Is that the Elantra?


----------



## envirotex

Rawrrrrr.....Made a purchase yesterday. 





So pretty...


----------



## MA_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Cool! Is that the Elantra?


Yeah.  It was a deal I couldn't pass up.  Good luck with the Range she's a beaut!


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> Yeah.  It was a deal I couldn't pass up.  Good luck with the Range she's a beaut!


Thanks! LadyFox had an Elantra prior to the SUV she got and really enjoyed it. It was one of the better and more reliable cars we've owned.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

@knight1fox3 car from another angle...






Sorry, just laughing at the camera angle (typically used to make things look bigger)


----------



## Master slacker

knight1fox3 said:


> Rawrrrrr.....Made a purchase yesterday.


Hope you don't mind warranty repairs...


----------



## knight1fox3

Master slacker said:


> Hope you don't mind warranty repairs...


Not the case with the Evoque model though. Plus it's covered under factory warranty until near the end of 2018. :thumbs:


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Gotta love English cars.  The Jaguar XKE had a reputation as a car that would run fast as all hell.....when it ran.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Not the case with the Evoque model though. Plus it's covered under factory warranty until near the end of 2018. :thumbs:


That's an old article.  Doug just made a video about his Range Rover, and his total for the CarMax warranty so far is over $16,000.  It's about to run out though.


----------



## knight1fox3

Point being?


----------



## Flyer_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Point being?


I'll keep a tow strap in the back of my truck in case I see your limey SUV stalled out on the shoulder of I-94. oking:


----------



## Road Guy

We rented a Ford expedition last week that had seat coolers, I didn't understand the purpose of them until we got back in the car when it was 100° out, pretty sweet

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> I'll keep a tow strap in the back of my truck in case I see your limey SUV stalled out on the shoulder of I-94. oking:


LOL.....this coming from a guy who drives a "*F*ound *O*n the *R*oad *D*ead".


----------



## Flyer_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll keep a tow strap in the back of my truck in case I see your limey SUV stalled out on the shoulder of I-94. oking:
> 
> 
> 
> LOL.....this coming from a guy who drives a "*F*ound *O*n the *R*oad *D*ead".
Click to expand...

I'll have you know, sir, that it stands for *"F*ix *O*r *R*epair *D*aily".


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> We rented a Ford expedition last week that had seat coolers, I didn't understand the purpose of them until we got back in the car when it was 100° out, pretty sweet
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Didn't care much for the idea when I bought my truck but found they're pretty nice to have with a black interior in July and August.


----------



## Road Guy

I just don't know how you "engineers" (so called) buy vehicles that you can't disassemble easily


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> I just don't know how you "engineers" (so called) buy vehicles that you can't disassemble easily


Does this count? 





Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I've taken Bee apart and put back together several times. I love installing upgrades.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> last week that had seat coolers


I very nearly bought a used Cadillac DTS just for this reason after I had one as a rental.  Nothing beats getting out of a leather seat after a 3 hour drive and having your bits feeling so fresh.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I just don't know how you "engineers" (so called) buy vehicles that you can't disassemble easily


Just being able to take the doors off and fold the roof down doesn't count.


----------



## Road Guy

technically I have to get 2 of my 3 teenagers to lift up and remove the top (its not just fold down)


----------



## MetsFan

knight1fox3 said:


> Rawrrrrr.....Made a purchase yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @envirotex
> 
> Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


Nice dude!  

Didn't want to stay in the Infiniti family?


----------



## knight1fox3

MetsFan said:


> Nice dude!
> 
> Didn't want to stay in the Infiniti family?


Haha! I know, I strayed! But my wife already has the FX and I did briefly look at the QX models. But figured I'd try something different.


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> I very nearly bought a used Cadillac DTS just for this reason after I had one as a rental.  Nothing beats getting out of a leather seat after a 3 hour drive and having your bits feeling so fresh.


Why can't any cars nowadays that are NOT the bare bones trim have cloth seats?  I love cloth seats.


----------



## knight1fox3

Master slacker said:


> Why can't any cars nowadays that are NOT the bare bones trim have cloth seats?  I love cloth seats.


Because of kids. In which case cloth seats is an exercise in futility. :thumbs:


----------



## Master slacker

knight1fox3 said:


> Because of kids. In which case cloth seats is an exercise in futility. :thumbs:


Shhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttt... I have melted crayon in my wife's car from when our boys were younger.  Don't care.  Seats are still comfy as can be.  Keeping up with leather is a pain in the ass (pun intended) and is hot as fug in the summer.


----------



## MetsFan

Master slacker said:


> Shhhhhhheeeeeeeeeeeeeiiiiiiiiiiiiiitttttttt... I have melted crayon in my wife's car from when our boys were younger.  Don't care.  Seats are still comfy as can be.  Keeping up with leather is a pain in the ass (pun intended) and is hot as fug in the summer.


Are you kidding?  All the milk my kids spilled would still be there if it weren't for the leather.


----------



## Road Guy

Leather definitely helped when the kids were young

I don’t have it them on the jeep and I have been meaning to get some type of seat covers since I mainly spill my coffee and beer while driving around..

My daughter just got her drivers license yesterday. So now I have two extra drivers in the house!

I am trying to find her an old (like 90-94) Jeep wrangler for her, mainly I liked that model and can work on pretty easily..

Insurance for her was only an extra $500 a year (compared to the boy who was like an extra $900 a year almost) – GD discrimination!

But they are both paying most of their insurance…


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

We won't buy a car without leather because of the kids. Cloth just sucks trying to keep clean.

Why that timeframe for the Jeep? If I remember correctly, those were still rocking carburetors and weren't always reliable. If you look at a 94+, then you get the fuel injected 4.0 which was one of the greatest engine blocks ever created.


----------



## Bot-Man

Road Guy said:


> Leather definitely helped when the kids were young
> 
> I don’t have it them on the jeep and I have been meaning to get some type of seat covers since I mainly spill my coffee and beer while driving around..
> 
> My daughter just got her drivers license yesterday. So now I have two extra drivers in the house!
> 
> I am trying to find her an old (like 90-94) Jeep wrangler for her, mainly I liked that model and can work on pretty easily..
> 
> Insurance for her was only an extra $500 a year (compared to the boy who was like an extra $900 a year almost) – GD discrimination!
> 
> But they are both paying most of their insurance…


The YJ Jeeps were 87-95. All the parts are interchangeable. Personally I think they are the best ones. Plenty of parts still available at good prices. Plus, like you said they are very easy to work on. I had an 88. Loved that jeep but the 14 miles per gallon sucked when I had a 50 mile commute. Sold it and bought a Corrola for the gas mileage.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ If you make the kids buy their own gas, shitty gas mileage will limit how much "cruising" they'll be able to do.


----------



## Road Guy

Will defin look for the 4.0.

I had a 94 and that was a favorite of mine - I liked it way better than the TJ.

They have a limited radius of how far they can go so they will generally go a while on a tank of gas...


----------



## Bot-Man

I had the 4.0 and the best I could get was 14 mpg with 31 inch tires.


----------



## mudpuppy

I changed the oil in our cars yesterday and in checking the air filters I found sunflower seed shells in the airbox of the Jeep, lots of maple seeds in the airbox of the Aveo, and the airbox of my wife's Versa was stuffed with chewed up napkins, string and mouse fur.  The intake manifold of the Jeep had a bunch of mouse droppings on it too.

The good news is I saw a feral kitten hanging out under my Jeep this morning, so hopefully it'll take care of the problem.

The bad news is we have feral kittens now.


----------



## csb

mudpuppy said:


> I changed the oil in our cars yesterday and in checking the air filters I found sunflower seed shells in the airbox of the Jeep, lots of maple seeds in the airbox of the Aveo, and the airbox of my wife's Versa was stuffed with chewed up napkins, string and mouse fur.  The intake manifold of the Jeep had a bunch of mouse droppings on it too.
> 
> The good news is I saw a feral kitten hanging out under my Jeep this morning, so hopefully it'll take care of the problem.
> 
> The bad news is we have feral kittens now.


All of those things are also in my washer after the kid does laundry.


----------



## Road Guy

If I owned some property I would definitely have some cats around, just feed them barely enough to hang around but not enough so that they're not too full to eat mice!


----------



## mudpuppy

There was a coyote in the back yard last night, so I'm not sure how long the kittens will be around.


----------



## Road Guy

unrelated to this - but a woman my daughter rides horses at keeps a donkey around because she said they keep away the coyotes and mountain lions.

I had asked her how she kept all her "free range" chickens and cats around being so close to the foothills and that's when she said he got the donkey, just thought it was interesting (not advocating you get an ass!)


----------



## Dleg

That is interesting. I'd never heard that!  I wonder if they'll keep bears away?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It's not that it keeps them away, it provides a cheaper and slower alternate in case the wildlife gets hungry.


----------



## FLBuff PE

Actually they do. They kick like a m-fer. A local ranch has a few donkeys on it to keep their livestock (sheep, cows and pigs) alive from the coyotes and mountain lions. The ranchers have attested to seeing the donkey fend off a coyote and a mountain lion first hand.


----------



## Ble_PE

Since I spent the past 2 years riding the bus in Hawaii, I've got to buy a new car soon (borrowing my dad's truck right now). What I having trouble deciding is whether to get a mid-sized truck (Colorado or Tacoma) or a CR-V (or similar). I know that the CR-V would be cheaper to buy, cheaper at the gas tank, and overall the most economical choice, but on the other hand I really want a truck. I've been emailing a few dealerships around here to try to talk some numbers, but I still can't make up my mind. I need to do something soon, but every time I think I've made a decision I start to second guess myself. I just need to get it over with!


----------



## mudpuppy

I want a truck too, but they are tremendously overpriced IMO.  My dad lives in Arizona in the winters and my plan is to try to find an older truck out there (80s through maybe early 2000s) and bring it back to Michigan.  But I'd still keep my Aveo as the daily driver--might as well rack the miles on that.


----------



## Road Guy

BLE- I would just get what you really want- I spent most of the last decade driving a vehicle I hated (but was good for family)

You already have a mini van so you shouldn't need two "mom cars" like the CRV


----------



## snickerd3

Ble_PE said:


> Since I spent the past 2 years riding the bus in Hawaii, I've got to buy a new car soon (borrowing my dad's truck right now). What I having trouble deciding is whether to get a mid-sized truck (Colorado or Tacoma) or a CR-V (or similar). I know that the CR-V would be cheaper to buy, cheaper at the gas tank, and overall the most economical choice, but on the other hand I really want a truck. I've been emailing a few dealerships around here to try to talk some numbers, but I still can't make up my mind. I need to do something soon, but every time I think I've made a decision I start to second guess myself. I just need to get it over with!


THe crv has gotten tiny.  it's basically a sedan on small stilts.  I really want a truck too, but the gas mileage is must for me.  Sedans are too small for me, I need a larger vehicle.  I like the pilot


----------



## Master slacker

snickerd3 said:


> THe crv has gotten tiny.  it's basically a sedan on small *tits*.  I really want a truck too, but the gas mileage is must for me.  Sedans are too small for me, I need a larger vehicle.  I like the pilot


This is the version I _read_.  I should sleep more.


----------



## knight1fox3

Ble_PE said:


> Since I spent the past 2 years riding the bus in Hawaii, I've got to buy a new car soon (borrowing my dad's truck right now). What I having trouble deciding is whether to get a mid-sized truck (Colorado or Tacoma) or a CR-V (or similar). I know that the CR-V would be cheaper to buy, cheaper at the gas tank, and overall the most economical choice, but on the other hand I really want a truck. I've been emailing a few dealerships around here to try to talk some numbers, but I still can't make up my mind. I need to do something soon, but every time I think I've made a decision I start to second guess myself. I just need to get it over with!


Ble, get this. It's quite versatile and GREAT for traffic jams/A-hole drivers! Bonus points if you can name the corresponding movie.


----------



## FLBuff PE

Ble_PE said:


> Since I spent the past 2 years riding the bus in Hawaii, I've got to buy a new car soon (borrowing my dad's truck right now). What I having trouble deciding is whether to get a mid-sized truck (Colorado or Tacoma) or a CR-V (or similar). I know that the CR-V would be cheaper to buy, cheaper at the gas tank, and overall the most economical choice, but on the other hand I really want a truck. I've been emailing a few dealerships around here to try to talk some numbers, but I still can't make up my mind. I need to do something soon, but every time I think I've made a decision I start to second guess myself. I just need to get it over with!


This is the boat I am in, too. I am ready to turn over my '01 Blazer (S-10 frame) for something newer. We also have a mom-mobile (minivan), which we use as our main family hauler. I have a work truck (4-door Tacoma) that I use for the occasional camping trip, so I can't really justify another truck in the driveway. We want something that gets good mileage, for trips to Denver and back, and for when we don't have to haul the dogs around. I'm looking at leasing a new vehicle, and so I'm looking at some sedans. I test drove an Accord Sport, and liked the way it handled. My problem with the CRV is that you can't hardly tell one SUV apart from another these days...they all look the same. I'm also going to test drive a Jetta, and see what I think about that, but from what I have read, the interiors of the Jettas are pretty sparse. The Accord was bigger and more plush than a Civc.


----------



## snickerd3

I wish I could lease...i drive way too much though, the overages would be killer expensive.


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> I wish I could lease...


LOL, why on earth would you want to do that?!

It's similar in essence to always paying rent and never actually buying a home.


----------



## knight1fox3

FLBuff PE said:


> I'm also going to test drive a Jetta, and see what I think about that, but from what I have read, the interiors of the Jettas are pretty sparse.


They also lie about their gas mileage. :thumbs:


----------



## snickerd3

knight1fox3 said:


> LOL, why on earth would you want to do that?!
> 
> It's similar in essence to always paying rent and never actually buying a home.


the new car every two years.


----------



## Master slacker

snickerd3 said:


> I wish I could lease...i drive way too much though, the overages would be killer expensive.


I've been told that underagers would have more expensive penalties.


----------



## kevo_55

Ble, get one of these:


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> the new car every two years.


Yes. But the trade-off being that you'll basically always have a car payment. And paying for something you'll never own (in the grand scheme of things). And also comes with various mileage and other restrictions.

Then again, I have a different outlook on car buying where my goal is never to have a car payment. So we tend to purchase the vehicle (used) out-right.


----------



## FLBuff PE

I put less than 10,000 miles per year on my current personal vehicle, so the mileage restriction doesn't scare me. I drive my work vehicle almost every day. The Accord Sport that I test drove last week is still on the lot. It's a 2016 model with only 11k miles on it. I'm thinking about lowballing the dealership and see what they say.


----------



## knight1fox3

FLBuff PE said:


> I put less than 10,000 miles per year on my current personal vehicle, so the mileage restriction doesn't scare me.


Which is definitely a different situation for you. However, I just can't fathom signing up to always have a payment for something I'll never own. I already do that for insurance.


----------



## snickerd3

our needs in a vehicle are changing.  I went from crv to pilot because we needed more space and wanted more bells and whistles than the basic model i had.  Now we are looking for something about the same size but more versatile...like hauling future purchases like boat/ trailer for atvs/etc...the pilot could do that, but it would limit size


----------



## knight1fox3

snickerd3 said:


> Now we are looking for something about the same size but more versatile...like hauling future purchases like boat/ trailer for atvs/etc...the pilot could do that, but it would limit size


Right there with you. The small child(ren) are definitely a driver of that aspect. Which is why I didn't go with another Sedan. We were always taking LadyFox's cross-over SUV for family travels and such. But wanted to be able to do this with both our vehicles. Next step is to add a hitch to both of them. I plan to get one of those modular platforms (like you might see deer hunters do) and then probably a bike rack of sorts that's interchangeable between both vehicles. Small trailer might be another possibility but that is further out in our budget. And we are only about 2 mi from Lake Michigan, so a boat would be awesome. But again, that's out a bit further.


----------



## Road Guy

has anyone seen the new pilot? it looks like a mini van.


----------



## snickerd3

Road Guy said:


> has anyone seen the new pilot? it looks like a mini van.


all suvs are starting to look like minivans, its quite horrible.  another reason i was leaning towards truck


----------



## MetsFan

snickerd3 said:


> our needs in a vehicle are changing.  I went from crv to pilot because we needed more space and wanted more bells and whistles than the basic model i had.  Now we are looking for something about the same size but more versatile...like hauling future purchases like boat/ trailer for atvs/etc...the pilot could do that, but it would limit size


Too bad the Touareg isn't coming back to the US.  My V6 has a 6,600 lb towing capacity.  My co-worker has a Nissan Armada that he tows with, but that's a lot bigger than the Pilot.  

I still have my sedan, and honestly don't feel like it's too small.  Obviously, if we're taking a trip to Ikea, the Touareg would be better suited for it, but I pretty much drive the G everywhere else.


----------



## Dleg

Ble_PE said:


> Since I spent the past 2 years riding the bus in Hawaii, I've got to buy a new car soon (borrowing my dad's truck right now). What I having trouble deciding is whether to get a mid-sized truck (Colorado or Tacoma) or a CR-V (or similar). I know that the CR-V would be cheaper to buy, cheaper at the gas tank, and overall the most economical choice, but on the other hand I really want a truck. I've been emailing a few dealerships around here to try to talk some numbers, but I still can't make up my mind. I need to do something soon, but every time I think I've made a decision I start to second guess myself. I just need to get it over with!


Get the truck! Don't be like me!  I hate having to borrow friend's trucks when I need to pick something big up. I knew I should have bought a truck when I first got here, and I didn't. And I regret it almost every day.

That said, you probably don't need a 4x4 where you live. No offense.  So you don't have to spend $40k on a truck.


----------



## snickerd3

other than the 1-2 yrs i drove a beat up K-car in college, I have driven suv or larger vehicles.  Learned to drive in a chevy astro van, had a chevy blazer, CRV and now a pilot.  I'm just more comfortable driving larger vehicles.


----------



## MA_PE

> Learned to drive in a chevy astro van, had a chevy blazer, CRV and now a pilot.  I'm just more comfortable driving larger vehicles



"larger' is a relative term.   I would not necessarily consider any of those a "larger vehicle".  I grew up in the late 70's when the full size Impalas, Cadillac Fleetwoods and Olds 98s were the larger vehicles. 

When the kids were small we had a '93 Caprice Classic wagon.  Comfortable 8 passenger car.  I just got rid of a '99 Buick LeSabre IMHO, it was a full size car but the Park Avenue was even bigger at the time. 

To me now a larger vehicle is a Suburban, Expedition, full size quad cab pick up, full size van, etc.


----------



## mudpuppy

knight1fox3 said:


> Which is definitely a different situation for you. However, I just can't fathom signing up to always have a payment for something I'll never own. I already do that for insurance.


Paying $20k up front for a used vehicle that you keep 5 years is the same is paying $333/mo on a lease.  The main difference is with the lease you start with a new vehicle and you get another new vehicle every 2-3 years.  There's a lot of reasons this can be attractive, e.g. if you really need a newer, reliable vehicle (such as my 90 year old grandma who leased vehicles for many years) and/or don't want the possibility of massive maintenance/repair costs when the vehicle goes out of warranty.

On the other hand if you're like me and are super cheap about vehicles and don't mind driving something old and crappy, then you buy something cheap and drive it into the ground for 20+ years.



Dleg said:


> Get the truck! Don't be like me!  I hate having to borrow friend's trucks when I need to pick something big up. I knew I should have bought a truck when I first got here, and I didn't. And I regret it almost every day.
> 
> That said, you probably don't need a 4x4 where you live. No offense.  So you don't have to spend $40k on a truck.


Another option is to get a trailer.  Most things you haul with a truck you can also haul on a trailer.  That way you're not buying a truck you only need a few times a year and paying for low gas mileage 100% of the time.  This is the option I've been using lately, either borrowing a trailer or renting one from Uhaul for $25/day.


----------



## Road Guy

that's how I survived back in ATL is I had a 4X6 trailer (bought it from Lowes $400 bucks) that thing was a life saver.

I don't have room for a trailer here here so I just use my 2002 Tahoe with no seats in the rear of the vehicle its almost like having an actual truck (my kids are driving the Tahoe)

The wife is already regretting not getting a 4 Runner - she bought a highlander because we need the 3 rows of seats but this thing is really a piece of crap, no horsepower but it gets about the same gas mileage as he Tahoe does.. So I think if you have a job, a credit score &gt;700 just get the vehicle you want and don't listen to any of the other hens out there


----------



## Dleg

I have the 4Runner and it doesn't have very good gas mileage, either.  Seems OK in the power department though, but it drives an offroad vehicle on the highway - maybe a little more comfortable but it doesn't exactly instill confidence going around curves at highway speed.


----------



## User1

I can't wait until 3 years from now when I have $350 a month more to spend on wine and whiskey


----------



## knight1fox3

mudpuppy said:


> Paying $20k up front for a used vehicle that you keep 5 years is the same is paying $333/mo on a lease.  The main difference is with the lease you start with a new vehicle and you get another new vehicle every 2-3 years.  There's a lot of reasons this can be attractive, e.g. if you really need a newer, reliable vehicle (such as my 90 year old grandma who leased vehicles for many years) and/or don't want the possibility of massive maintenance/repair costs when the vehicle goes out of warranty.
> 
> On the other hand if you're like me and are super cheap about vehicles and don't mind driving something old and crappy, then you buy something cheap and drive it into the ground for 20+ years.


Understood. But it's the ownership aspect of it and not having a payment for that length of time allows for income to be applied to other areas of our budget. And we generally keep our cars for 10-11 years.


----------



## Ble_PE

I'm leaning toward the truck, and if I get a truck I'll get 4x4 even if I don't really need it  ! RWD trucks are worse than anything else on the road if you get some snow or ice and Raleigh is known for getting a few ice storms every winter. I'm going to keep this thing 10-15 years, so I might as well get what I want!


----------



## Ble_PE

snickerd3 said:


> THe crv has gotten tiny.  it's basically a sedan on small stilts.  I really want a truck too, but the gas mileage is must for me.  Sedans are too small for me, I need a larger vehicle.  I like the pilot


The newest CRV is actually bigger than any of the others. I used to have an 06 and I thought the same thing, but I looked it up and they now have more cargo space than ever. Still don't think I want one...


----------



## Road Guy

The resale value on the 4X4 is worth it- even if you keep it 10+ years


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I'm not really a good authority on the "want vs need" category of buying vehicles.   The Camaro is only car I've truly owned outright (not counting anything purchased for less than $3k on craigslist).

For the truck vs trailer aspect, we went with a small trailer. We bought one from Harbor Freight through a guy on Craigslist who did all the assembly ($300 for the trailer, $100 for assembly). Cost another $100 or so getting it titled, licensed, insured, and the side panels built.  It was amazing because we could fold it up into the corner of the garage when not needed (footprint of about 2' x 5') and it was light enough for me to pick up the hitch and walk it around.


----------



## Supe

New 4x4 trucks are nuts.  The Mrs. Supe's 05 CRV is starting to grow on me in terms of convenience/how much shit you can cram in the back.  I'd personally buy the CRV, and buy a beater truck to go with it.  You'd probably still come in under the cost of a decent new truck.

Finally got the Porsche running again yesterday.  Getting good at swapping engines, this is the third time I've done it.  Had a serious pucker moment when the oil light came on and stayed on.  Ended up swapping the oil pressure sending unit off the old motor and the light went off, so fingers crossed there are no issues.  Still need to put strut tower bar back on, change sway bar settings, install new brake lines and bleed brakes before Friday.


----------



## Supe

Saturn is really starting to turn into a piece of shit.  Expensive timing belt change looming, also.  Think it is going to get reduced to beater status very soon.  I was dead set on a Focus ST, but the more I read, the more it supposedly sucked as a family car because of a complete lack of rear seat room.  I am probably going to go give the Civic SI sedan a test drive and see how the loss of HP stacks up.


----------



## Ble_PE

Supe said:


> New 4x4 trucks are nuts.  The Mrs. Supe's 05 CRV is starting to grow on me in terms of convenience/how much shit you can cram in the back.  I'd personally buy the CRV, and buy a beater truck to go with it.  You'd probably still come in under the cost of a decent new truck.


Yea, it's hard to swallow over $6000 more for a truck that doesn't have near the number of luxuries that the CRV would have. The 2017 CRV is much nicer than the 2007-2016 IMHO.


----------



## Supe

That must be a cheap truck.  Last decent truck I priced out online was nearly $55K.  A Silverado short box crew cab starts at over $40K and aren't all that practical.

The only issue with the wife's CRV is a damn headlight issue that was recalled for the earlier years, but not for 2005.  Other than that, it's damn near indestructible.  She has run it out of oil, repeatedly, and it keeps on ticking with nothing more than replacing a $105 VTEC solenoid/oil pressure switch combo.  I'm determined to make that thing live for another 100K.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I was wandering around the lot a few weeks ago while my truck was being serviced.  Sticker prices on a new F150 with pretty much the same options I'm running now are over $60k.  Who the hell can afford that?


----------



## Ble_PE

I'm looking at Colorados, Tacomas, and Ridgelines, not full-sized trucks. Those would be mid-50s with the same options as the CRV minimum, if not over 60k. That's crazy money. I'm tempted to give a Wrangler a test drive, but those are $$ and get shitty gas mileage.


----------



## Road Guy

Are you only looking at brand new? When I bought the jeep Carmax had several four-door Tacoma's for mid 30s.

The rear seats on a jeep Wrangler four-door are larger than what's on the Toyota Tacoma for what it's worth, but I got my jeep that was a year old with 15,000 miles fir under 30K

It will be a long time before I pay $60,000 for a vehicle


----------



## jeb6294

Flyer_PE said:


> I was wandering around the lot a few weeks ago while my truck was being serviced.  Sticker prices on a new F150 with pretty much the same options I'm running now are over $60k.  Who the hell can afford that?


Try wandering over to the Superduties with the Powerstroke.  I don't even think the start at $60k.  It's hard to call them work trucks anymore though. They are pretty well loaded nowadays.  Guys who use them for actual work have to special order them to get them with the vinyl floors and seats.



Ble_PE said:


> I'm looking at Colorados, Tacomas, and *Ridgelines*, not full-sized trucks. Those would be mid-50s with the same options as the CRV minimum, if not over 60k. That's crazy money. I'm tempted to give a Wrangler a test drive, but those are $$ and get shitty gas mileage.


Sorry, that's not a truck.  That is a Honda Accord with a bed bolted to it.


----------



## Ble_PE

Road Guy said:


> Are you only looking at brand new? When I bought the jeep Carmax had several four-door Tacoma's for mid 30s.
> 
> The rear seats on a jeep Wrangler four-door are larger than what's on the Toyota Tacoma for what it's worth, but I got my jeep that was a year old with 15,000 miles fir under 30K
> 
> It will be a long time before I pay $60,000 for a vehicle


You can actually get a pretty nice new 4-door tacoma with 4-wheel drive for $35-38. That's the problem with used trucks is that they are almost as pricey as the new ones. Do you use the Jeep as your daily driver?



jeb6294 said:


> Sorry, that's not a truck.  That is a Honda Accord with a bed bolted to it.


Yea, I know, but I'm not looking for a heavy duty work truck, so it would serve the same purpose a Colorado or Tacoma would for me.


----------



## jeb6294

I would be hard pressed to buy a new car anymore.  That's the only way I ended up getting my truck, getting it used.  I found out the original sticker on it back in 2011 was about $55k and to get a new 2015 which is when I got it would have been at least $10k more than that.


----------



## jeb6294

Ford is coming out with the "new" Ranger, but it sounds like it's going to be a little while yet.  I say "new" because they already had them when I was overseas.  They were pretty sharp looking...kinda looked like a scaled down version of the Raptor.

If I were looking for a small truck, I'd still be pestering Toyota every day to bring the Hilux over.  That's what I drove while I was in Afghanistan.  4-Doors with plenty of leg room in the back and a 4-cyl diesel that got excellent mileage and just would not die.  I swear, you could take the oil out and replace it with dirt and I think it'd still go.


----------



## Road Guy

I drive the jeep 4 days a week and a I drive my old Tahoe a day just to keep some miles of the jeep..Its even a manual transmission which I actually like - its great in the snow, I get around 22 mpg - that is with mud terrain tires but not much of  a lift.. It got me home in the snow last winter when we got close to 30 inches of snow at work with no problem and where I saw most vehicles stuck or sliding backwards   that day..

What I liked about looking at cars at CarMax (even if you don't buy one there) is you can look at and sit in different brands without the annoying salesman following you around.  I was also looking at a Tacoma but when I sat in the back seat of the Tacoma versus the wrangler it was a fairly noticeable difference in comfort- which I was really surprised. We have bought several cars there and I believe they do a good job of checking out what they sell. Have had less problems with their cars versus the brand new cars we bought from the stealerships

2 bad things about jeeps IMO is that 1)- they are a gear hog, too many add on aftermarket things you will want to buy, and 2)- is that to get a lot of features (heated seat, leather, premium radio, etc, is all bundled in either the overpriced Rubicon package or their Saraha package, which I never cared for the "street look" of the saraha, and I don't see paying for the rubicon since you still have to pay for a lift to get bigger tires. Jeep should come back out with their big foot package they had in the 90's when they would just come with 33's on them..  But they are not for everyone, however the 4 doors is way more comfortable to drive than either of my previous 3 jeeps.

The wife and I are looking to get (in 3.6 years when kids are out) is either a Tacoma or 4-Runner so we can pull a small trailer or either get a Tacoma with a hard top so we can camp in the back. We have seen some cool configurations where they build a floor in the bed where you store ski gear and then you can camp on top of it- like say when you are trying to get "first chair" at the resorts (that may not be a thing outside of our state though)  But what I was getting at is if I was getting a truck I would get the Tacoma, resale value just cant be beat.


----------



## mudpuppy

Speaking of Jeeps, anyone experience the Jeep Death Wobble?  My Cherokee has come down with a serious case of it.  Scary when you're driving 70 mph down the expressway and suddenly the whole front end starts oscillating to the point where it feels like the whole vehicle is going to fly apart, and it won't stop until you pull over and stop.


----------



## Road Guy

how old / new  is your front stabilizer? 

I only had it a few times on my 99 TJ but the drawback to having a solid front axle is those parts do wear out - I think I put in a really beefy front stabilizer shock and then replaced the links &amp; stabilizer bar and that seemed to fix it.


----------



## mudpuppy

I just replaced the shocks and the steering stabilizer, which actually made it worse.  Going to take it to the shop to check out the track bar, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc.


----------



## jeb6294

You have a lift on it?  Sometimes the cheaper lift kits skimp on the steering components and can screw up the geometry which makes wobble worse.


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> You have a lift on it?  Sometimes the cheaper lift kits skimp on the steering components and can screw up the geometry which makes wobble worse.


It has a cheap 2" body lift that my dad put in it when he owned it.  I honestly don't know what all he messed with on it, so there could be something there.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

jeb6294 said:


> Ford is coming out with the "new" Ranger, but it sounds like it's going to be a little while yet.  I say "new" because they already had them when I was overseas.  They were pretty sharp looking...kinda looked like a scaled down version of the Raptor.
> 
> If I were looking for a small truck, I'd still be pestering Toyota every day to bring the Hilux over.  That's what I drove while I was in Afghanistan.  4-Doors with plenty of leg room in the back and a 4-cyl diesel that got excellent mileage and just would not die.  I swear, you could take the oil out and replace it with dirt and I think it'd still go.


We have both those here in NZ. The Rangers are nice, definitely a mini-Raptor. They get expensive very quickly.

I've seen Hilux's everywhere except the US. Things are a half step below a tank in their indestructible capabilities.


----------



## Road Guy

mudpuppy said:


> It has a cheap 2" body lift that my dad put in it when he owned it.  I honestly don't know what all he messed with on it, so there could be something there.


when I was more active in the jeepforum community it seemed like the non suspension lifts were a lot of times to blame.. we are looking around for an XJ for one of our kids so let me know what your shop says about them.


----------



## jeb6294

A body lift shouldn't have any affect on the steering.  All you're doing is, literally, lifting the body above the frame a couple inches.  Worst case scenario, you would get made fun of in the "real" Jeep world unless it was done in conjunction with a suspension lift to clear some ridiculously big tires.  Of course, with any kind of lift, I'm guessing it's got bigger tires on it.  Even that can increase the chances for death wobble.  If it's got a lot of miles on it, may just have to go back to checking for worn parts.


----------



## snickerd3

jeb6294 said:


> Ford is coming out with the "new" Ranger, but it sounds like it's going to be a little while yet.  I say "new" because they already had them when I was overseas.  They were pretty sharp looking...kinda looked like a scaled down version of the Raptor.
> 
> If I were looking for a small truck, I'd still be pester*ing Toyota every day to bring the Hilux ove*r.  That's what I drove while I was in Afghanistan.  4-Doors with plenty of leg room in the back and a 4-cyl diesel that got excellent mileage and just would not die.  I swear, you could take the oil out and replace it with dirt and I think it'd still go.






Dexman PE PMP said:


> We have both those here in NZ. The Rangers are nice, definitely a mini-Raptor. They get expensive very quickly.
> 
> I've seen Hilux's everywhere except the US. Things are a half step below a tank in their indestructible capabilities.


fall 2017 if the interwebs is to be believed

http://www.2016toyotahilux.com/2017-toyota-hilux-usa-review-news/


----------



## jeb6294

snickerd3 said:


> fall 2017 if the interwebs is to be believed
> 
> http://www.2016toyotahilux.com/2017-toyota-hilux-usa-review-news/


Pfffft...that's not a Hilux.  I'll bet half that fancy body moulding would fall off the first time it got air.  And no diesel?  This is a Hilux:


----------



## Master slacker

We just keep cars till they die.  And then I bring them back to life.  Repeat.


----------



## Ble_PE

So now I've _almost_ decided to just go with my wants and get a Jeep Wrangler. The problem is there are just way too many builds and accessories sold with them that push the price up to a ridiculous level. Not to mention I want a soft top and almost everything on the lots around here are hard tops. Might have to travel a bit to get what I what whenever I decide to pull the trigger.


----------



## kevo_55

So, does this mean that Bigfoot is no longer in the running?


----------



## Road Guy

If I still lived in a shorter winter climate I would just buy one with the hard top and then buy an aftermarket soft top for spring and summer - they make some really nice frameless soft tops now  a days which make switching the tops much easier (before you had to remove the metal supports for the soft top)

The one bad thing about a soft top is theft. Since mine is the daily driver I have found myself lugging my lap top inside lunches and other places during the day.

&amp; there are a lot of things that can go wrong with aftermarket stuff like lifts that I would recommend getting a base model and then adding what you want and making sure its done correctly - versus having to potentially fix what someone else put on.

&amp; I spent 4 hours putting up my garage hoist this past weekend, I have to admit I think my previous method of just getting my kids to help me take the top off was easier and quicker. This thing was a PIA (see photos)  Also I was paranoid about leaving my $1500 top suspended from the ceiling so I added some paranoia tie down straps just "because"  - only two are shown but I did add a 4th..

critique away engineers!


----------



## Dleg

^Cool.

Ble, my advice to you once again, is to get what you want and don't start cheaping out because your local dealer doesn't have what you want, etc. You're spending so much anyway that it really doesn't make that much difference on the monthly payment to spend a little more and get what you want, vs. regretting it later on.

I have been leaning toward a Tacoma myself, but I went down to the dealer a couple weeks ago and the Tacomas that were in the mid $30s a few months ago are now all over $40k.  WTF!!!!


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The thing with Jeeps is that they have a huge aftermarket following and are really easy to work on. Because of that, focus on finding the base model that has the critical items you want (engine, transmission, color). If you want a Rubicon, join an owners forum and buy take-off parts from someone who upgraded theirs. If you're halfway decent with a wrench, you can even install them yourself.

Half of my suspension parts are take-offs from a ZL1 and I did the bulk of the install. Afterwards I would take it to a shop for an alignment and spot check. The only parts I had the shop install were things that I really couldn't do (brakes, fuel pump, dyno tune, and paint/powdercoating).


----------



## jeb6294

Two important things to keep in mind when buying a Jeep: 1. Don't get it with any accessories on it from the dealer, and 2)DON'T GET ANY ACCESSORIES ON IT FROM THE DEALER!!!

It was a long time ago, but when I was shopping for my Jeep, I checked one out at a dealer up towards Dayton.  They had one in the showroom that was just like the one I eventually bought except that the one in the showroom was loaded with "stuff".  Lights and bars and bumpers and....  I forget what the add-ons ended up being, but I seem to remember it being over $10k.  Every single thing they had added, I could buy myself for less money and install pretty easily (Jeeps are very easy to work on).

I got an online price from the dealer up in Dayton that was pretty good.  I took that to my local dealer and told them, I'd rather not drive up there to get my Jeep so if they could meet it, I would get it there instead.  Salesman went to "talk to his manager" for a minute and came back with the deal.


----------



## jeb6294

If you're ever bored (and have lots of time on your hands) go check out Quadratec and see how much stuff is out there.  Just about anything you would ever want for your Jeep...you can actually build a Jeep from scratch out of their catalog if you really wanted to.

If you're worried about theft, they make lock boxes that fit between the back seat and rear tailgate.  Certainly not impregnable, but it basically gives you a locked trunk.


----------



## Ble_PE

Honestly, I'd probably not be doing a lot of mods right away, but it's great that there is such a large amount of stuff that I can do. I'm getting the salesman I test drove with to look for what I want and I'm going to see what he comes back with. There's a high volume dealer just outside of DC that has very good deals, so if they can't get close here locally I'll drive up there if need be.


----------



## snickerd3

jeb6294 said:


> I got an online price from the dealer up in Dayton that was pretty good.  I took that to my local dealer and told them, I'd rather not drive up there to get my Jeep so if they could meet it, I would get it there instead.  Salesman went to "talk to his manager" for a minute and came back with the deal.


That's what I did for my last car purchase.  Got online quotes from all dealers in a 2 hr dr radius then went to one of the closest and did what you did.  They run a we'll match a lower quote and take an extra $500 off.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Same here for the last couple of purchases.  Fun thing is with most of the dealers putting their inventory on-line, I pretty much knew which lot my truck was sitting on.  The question was which dealer was going to make a swap to be able to sell it to me.


----------



## Supe

I did manage to get the Porsche finished at 9PM on Thursday for my race on Friday.  It was another engine swap (that I put new rod bearings in), coupled with building a new exhaust from scratch.  It was several weeks of non-stop work to make it happen, and with the NC heat/rain/humidity, it was one of the most physically and mentally exhausting projects I've dealt with in a long time.  So much so, I had a mini panic attack trying to get the exhaust work done.  

It was pouring raining at Charlotte Motor Speedway, and the engine ran like shit the first two sessions.  Misfires and wouldn't rev.  Ran through all the scenarios as to why it wouldn't work, and then realized that I had never reconnected the O2 sensor.  I didn't remotely think it would still be hanging under the car after about 40 miles of racing, but sure enough, there it was, wedged in the Y-pipe.  Screwed it back in before my third run, and the car ran like new.  I had also made some front sway bar adjustments to correct some understeer, and the the car handled like it was on rails.  Ended up beating my two buddies with much higher HP cars, and I own the class record for at least a year since it was the new course configuration.  If I can make the GA race in November, I've got a chance at winning three consecutive championships, which would be a fitting end for running full seasons in this car.


----------



## Ble_PE

So I'm currently negotiating via text with the Jeep salesman from my test drive on a Wrangler he found for me at a different dealer. So far I've got him down to an OTD price of about 3.5% below sticker (includes taxes, tags, etc.). I'm still planning to see how much lower I can get him to go and see if he'll add throw in any options. Wish me luck!


----------



## Supe

Was looking at a Civic SI, but now my boss has me looking at a Type R and Mrs. Supe wasn't objecting...


----------



## Ble_PE

Final price he's giving me is 5% below MSRP OTD with all-weather mats thrown in. Looks like I might be putting a deposit down today...


----------



## kevo_55

Go and get that bad boy Ble!!

Time for some mudding!!


----------



## Road Guy

Once you put the deposit down you can start practicing the Jeep wave


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> Once you put the deposit down you can start practicing the Jeep wave


:ghey:


----------



## Road Guy

:wanker:


----------



## Ble_PE

Just got confirmation that the dealer trade was approved and I should have the Jeep by Saturday at the latest! I'm not going to know how to act in a new car, much less a Jeep!


----------



## snickerd3

not sure the trophy thing = thanks   To me it is more of like good job sort of thing


----------



## Supe

Back to looking at the SI.  No Type R for me.  Talked to the really good local dealer.  He said nobody, them included, will sell one for less than $10K over sticker, and one of the nearby places just sold one for $15K over sticker.  I am not spending nearly $50K on a Honda Civic when I own two race cars.


----------



## kevo_55

Ble, the first thing to do in a new car is find out how fast it will go in reverse!

Congrats!


----------



## Road Guy

just be very very careful the first time you take the doors off, its like they don't want to come off and then as soon as you are not paying attention they come off, fall out of your hand and land on the driveway- didn't happen to me but I know several that did that something similar happen to them.

&amp; are you getting the 4 door or the 2 door?


----------



## Ble_PE

Road Guy said:


> just be very very careful the first time you take the doors off, its like they don't want to come off and then as soon as you are not paying attention they come off, fall out of your hand and land on the driveway- didn't happen to me but I know several that did that something similar happen to them.
> 
> &amp; are you getting the 4 door or the 2 door?


Duly noted.

I'm getting the 4 door. Still want to have some family hauling space and the ability to take it for a camping weekend with everyone in tow. Also going for the soft top because I live in the south and would probably not use the hard top that often.


----------



## Road Guy

you will definitely want to get familiar with quadratec.com and jeepforum.com or wranglerforum.com - I think both of those forums sold out and are run by companies now (not individuals like they used to be) but tons of good info there, but like here over time forums are dying down and the response times to questions isn't what it used to be. they would save me a ton of time and money working on my older jeeps.

mine didn't come with a hitch but I bought one off quadratec for around 50 bucks that bolted on in about 10 minutes and then they will make sure you get a new catalog once a month.

did you go drive one?


----------



## Ble_PE

I drove one pretty much identical to the one I'm getting except it had the navigation radio in it and I'm not getting that. 

I've already joined wranglerforum.com and I'll look into the other sites you listed. Thanks!


----------



## Road Guy

join this one too


----------



## engineergurl

Road Guy said:


> you will definitely want to get familiar with quadratec.com and jeepforum.com or wranglerforum.com - I think both of those forums sold out and are run by companies now (not individuals like they used to be) but tons of good info there, but like here over time forums are dying down and the response times to questions isn't what it used to be. they would save me a ton of time and money working on my older jeeps.
> 
> mine didn't come with a hitch but I bought one off quadratec for around 50 bucks that bolted on in about 10 minutes and then they will make sure you get a new catalog once a month.
> 
> did you go drive one?




I'll second jeepforum.com  it's saved me a ton of time with the cherokee on stupid crap rather than having to take it in


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Coming from someone who has worked at a dealership for a few years: I would also highly suggest test-driving and inspecting the Jeep you're buying before you sign anything. With quality controls they way they are, you shouldn't have any problems, but once in a while the one they send has something wrong with it and was the reason the original dealership hadn't sold it yet.

Some vehicles have been on their lot for months and it shows. It may also have been their test-driver and have a ton of extra miles already on it despite the "new" tag.

I was fortunate enough to buy the Camaro straight off the truck. I bought it the day it arrived and was the only one to test drive it (not counting the service tech who did the delivery inspection).


----------



## Ble_PE

^Yea, my dad sold cars for a while and he's coming up to go over it with me. Based on what I've been told, the ship date of the Jeep was mid-July 2017, so it shouldn't have many miles on it from test driving, but you never know. I'll be making sure everything is good prior to signing anything.


----------



## jeb6294

Just please tell me you didn't pay extra to get a Rubicon.  Nothing wrong with them, they are great, but you're paying a lot more $$$ for stuff that is purpose built for off-roading.  I see them driving around here all the time and you know the extent of their "off-roading" is parking in the grass at their kids' soccer games or this:


----------



## Road Guy

I agree and think most people that pay for that package regret it since you still have to throw away the wheels and tires to get a basic lift.  Except those that just like to throw $$ away..

 

The Dana 44 front axle is probably worth paying for but not the rest of the stuff IMO..

 

I’ve been looking at some of the newer lift kits and I do have to commend Jeep on making it much easier to install these, older models to add a suspension lift meant cutting parts off the frame, welding, etc, but really if you have a ½ socket set and some good jack stands (&amp; the most important part TIME) it looks like they have made most of these bolt on.

 

Like everyone else these days all the shops are so busy they are charging $2000 to put on a $600 item..


----------



## Ble_PE

No, I didn't spring for the Rubicon. I got the Sahara.


----------



## Road Guy

What options come with the sahara package?  Ive never liked the trim on them and the way the hard tops match the color of the jeep so I never looked inside one? (just my personal taste).

I've got the cheapo unlimited


----------



## Ble_PE

I'm not sure about all the differences between the Sahara and the Sport, but it has body color fenders, side step rails, standard Uconnect, 18" wheels, etc. The body color hard top is now an upgrade and the standard hardtop is the black.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> What options come with the sahara package?  Ive never liked the trim on them and the way the hard tops match the color of the jeep so I never looked inside one? (just my personal taste).
> 
> I've got the cheapo unlimited


That's the fancy pants yuppie Jeep.


----------



## Supe

Test drove the Civic Si yesterday.  Seats are a bit snug on me, but in the lats and not the shoulders like those atrocious Focus ST recaros.  There is no mistaking that the car is a 1.5L down low, but that thing starts to boogie at about 3K RPM when the boost builds.  Enough that I was able to spin the tires through second gear (dealers should learn not to hand me keys for a test drive and then send me out unaccompanied).  Sport mode does a good job firming up the shocks.  It was surprising spacious inside - had about 4" of room between me and the door.  Back seat can fit human legs very comfortable, albeit tight on head room.  Trunk is where it gives up space to the Accord.  You can tell where they desperately tried to save weight in the car, though.  No tilt/adjust on the steering column, manual seat sliders, etc.  Still amazes me how nice even a "cheap" new car is these days.


----------



## FLBuff PE

I test drove a Civic (not the Si), and it felt cheap to me. I liked the Accord Sport a lot.


----------



## Supe

The cloth interior leaves a lot to be desired, but at that price point, the only nicer interior fit/finish is in the Volkswagen which I have zero interest in owning.


----------



## FLBuff PE

I'm leaning towards the VW Jetta. I test drove a stick, and really like it. The automatic has an acceleration lag off the line. Plus, there are some crazy good lease deals on the Jetta right now.


----------



## Master slacker

So my rental car this week is a Dodge Challenger.  "Challenger" is a good name because the driver can't see out of this damn tank.  Seriously, WTF?


----------



## MetsFan

My rental car last week was a 2016 Focus.  It had bluetooth, which was nice since I hadn't brought an AUX cable with me and surprisingly, also had a back-up camera.  We managed to fit 2 huge suitcases and a stroller too.  Power was weak, but we did get 30 MPG out of it.

edit: hatch, not sedan


----------



## FLBuff PE

I think that back-up cameras are standard equipment as of the 2016 model year.


----------



## Supe

So the wife's car died in a parking lot on Monday and wouldn't crank.  She said she left her headlights on and got a jump.  Get in the car yesterday to go to wing night, dead as a door nail.  

Pop hood and positive terminal battery cover, only to be met by the largest mountain of blue corrosion I'd ever seen.  Of course, it was so much so, that when I tried to loosen the cable lug nut, it cracked the paper thin lug.

Get to go pick up a terminal tonight and see if I can fix it with my trusty hydraulic crimp tool, because I hate those bolt-on lug connections.  It's going to be a bit tricky, because her CRV has two smaller positive leads that Y into the connector, and there is virtually no slack in the cable to work with.


----------



## MA_PE

Heard about his on a car forum I visit.

Sad

http://www.denverpost.com/2017/09/10/friends-speed-testing-sports-car-runway-killed/


----------



## Supe

What a way to go, at least.


----------



## Road Guy

can you replace the whole cable or is it just a PIA to get to?


----------



## knight1fox3

I'm more concerned with how the battery issue impacted wing night...


----------



## jeb6294

"kept moving off the runway for another 314 feet"...sounds a little fishy.


----------



## snickerd3

jeb6294 said:


> "kept moving off the runway for another 314 feet"...sounds a little fishy.


that was my first thought!!!  THe two brothers in Second hand lions did basically the same thing but with a small plane.  going out with a blaze of glory


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> can you replace the whole cable or is it just a PIA to get to?


Lets put it this way: shop labor estimate is about $500, since it requires removal of the intake...



knight1fox3 said:


> I'm more concerned with how the battery issue impacted wing night...


It was a fast-paced gas and go in the Saturn, but we made it.


----------



## Master slacker

I've been renting cars weekly to get to my bubble assignment in Texas.  Maybe I should lay down some car rants all up in here.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> Heard about his on a car forum I visit.
> 
> Sad
> 
> http://www.denverpost.com/2017/09/10/friends-speed-testing-sports-car-runway-killed/


That's my home town.  Based on the speeds they were at when they reached the end of the runway and the distance they traveled, either something went wrong or it was deliberate. I'm thinking the latter.


----------



## Road Guy

this has been kind of an issue here lately, I blame it partly on a lack of law enforcement, but we back up to some large 4 lanes pre built for future developments and they are being used as drag strips at night.  I guess our 4 barney LE's don't work nights.  Its kind of been the hot topic and one night the cops did stage they said they couldn't catch them before they headed into the next jurisdiction..


----------



## MA_PE

Dexman PE PMP said:


> That's my home town.  Based on the speeds they were at when they reached the end of the runway and the distance they traveled, either something went wrong or it was deliberate. I'm thinking the latter.


It might have been deliberate but I'm thinking more towards a lack of reaction time to hit the brakes and a gross underestimation of speed,  required braking distance and the distance to the end of the runway.  I think they pushed for a high top end speed and didn't leave distance for braking and paid the price.


----------



## Road Guy

when I first glanced through that story I didn’t notice the part about them being 70!

 

Wonder if an autopsy or family will confirm any kind of cancer or some other bad stuff going on?


----------



## MA_PE

if they bother to do it at all.  Could well be that they wanted to go out with a bang, but there's no guarantee that you'll die in a straight line car wreck.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The fact that they were 70+ is what led me to think it was a deliberate act.

It also adds credibility to the theory that they weren't physically able to handle a vehicle in those conditions (heart attack, reaction times, etc)


----------



## Road Guy

So my wife’s (Toyota Highlander came with bluetooth for her phone but the stereo isn’t equipped for it (no wonder they lost the war) but I saw this little gizmo and picked it up for her for $13 bucks it works really well






 

Sound quality is still really good, only bad thing Is that I am sure she will forget to charge it but was just throwing this out there as a pretty good deal compared to spending $300+ bucks on a new car stereo 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07437K9ZY/ref=pe_2640190_232586610_pd_te_s_gr_im/147-7702118-5943702?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07437K9ZY&amp;pd_rd_r=0Y50SDYSBBHAJRNKJPGX&amp;pd_rd_w=rXrec&amp;pd_rd_wg=DvTJx


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> So my wife’s (Toyota Highlander came with bluetooth for her phone but the stereo isn’t equipped for it (no wonder they lost the war) but I saw this little gizmo and picked it up for her for $13 bucks it works really well
> 
> Sound quality is still really good, only bad thing Is that I am sure she will forget to charge it but was just throwing this out there as a pretty good deal compared to spending $300+ bucks on a new car stereo
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07437K9ZY/ref=pe_2640190_232586610_pd_te_s_gr_im/147-7702118-5943702?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07437K9ZY&amp;pd_rd_r=0Y50SDYSBBHAJRNKJPGX&amp;pd_rd_w=rXrec&amp;pd_rd_wg=DvTJx


I trust you used the EB.com Amazon link? 

At 6,320 mostly positive product reviews, you can't go wrong! Functional and cheap!


----------



## MA_PE

I'm confused.  Does the car need bluetooth capability for this to work or just an auxiliary input connection to the stereo? 

What does this do/how would it work? - "Toyota Highlander came with bluetooth for her phone but the stereo isn’t equipped for it"

My wife has a 2005 Ford that doesn't have any bluetooth but I think it's got an auxiliary input for the stereo.  Would this "protable" device allow her hands free use of her cellphone?


----------



## Road Guy

Basically if you have an AUX port on your vehicle but not a “Bluetooth” radio then this allows you to blue tooth your phone in.  So your car doesn’t need blue tooth built in

(takes the place of the aux cable you would normally have to place from your phone to the stereo)

I believe the same company has a $35 version that will make your phone “hands free” with a microphone built in and uses the cars speakers.


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> I'm confused.  Does the car need bluetooth capability for this to work or just an auxiliary input connection to the stereo?
> 
> What does this do/how would it work? - "Toyota Highlander came with bluetooth for her phone but the stereo isn’t equipped for it"
> 
> My wife has a 2005 Ford that doesn't have any bluetooth but I think it's got an auxiliary input for the stereo.  Would this "protable" device allow her hands free use of her cellphone?


I'm not quite sure on the original comment, but I can answer your last question. The device would be a means for your wife to stream music wirelessly from the phone to the device and ultimately to the stereo. Phone calls get a bit more tricky. Typically stereos that are already equipped with BT (meaning this aux. BT device would not be needed at all), also have a built-in microphone system. So taking a call with this aux. BT device could probably be done, but it would be dependent on where the phone was located in the car as to whether the caller would be able to hear your wife. In addition, this aux. BT device probably registers to the phone as a "media" device vs. that of "hands free calling". So when a call comes in, the phone might need to be set to use the aux. BT device as the primary audio for the phone call. HTH


----------



## Road Guy

so the answer (I didn't read it all the way) is that no your existing car doesn't need any existing Bluetooth capabilities for this gadget to work...

We all use lifeproof cases for our phones which makes the aux cable a PIA for us to use

Supposedly this will also work on an older “boom box” stereo that has an AUX port. I haven’t had one of those in a long time but I wish I hadn’t thrown mine away when I moved to give it a try


----------



## jeb6294

I had one of these in my last truck.  It didn't have BT at all.  Had the built-in mic and would connect to the phone so it was pretty close to being hands free.  Only downside was that it was an FM transmitter so the sound quality might not have been as good as a hard connection.


----------



## Supe

Confirmed Mrs. Supe fried the trans in her old CRV.  Fluid was dark brown and smelled like Kingsford.  Amazed she managed to go almost 150K on a trans that had never been serviced in its entire life (heh).

So, we've test driven a new CRV, and test drove an Outback last night.  Below is a copy/paste of what I sent to my father, who was trying to convince me to buy the Scoobydoo.

Outback Pros:

·         Interior fabrics were nicer than the Honda

·         Room for the dogs

·         Drives more like a car than an SUV, a bit easier to maneuver 

·         Roof rack was a nice feature

·         Felt like there was more space for the back seat passengers

·         AWD

·         Rear seats recline

Outback Cons:

·         Brakes were god awful.  I should not be able to put a spongy pedal to the floor on a car with 58 miles on it

·         No power, CVT transmission always seemed to be trying to hunt for the right RPM range

·         Interior plastics felt very cheap

·         MPG slightly lower than the CRV

·         We thought the radio/electronics were less intuitive

·         Some of the features Mrs. Supe wanted (rear USB ports for electronics, etc.) are only available on the higher trim 2018 models

·         No Apple or Android compatibility (just regular Bluetooth)

CRV Pros:

·         General nicer/more luxury oriented fit and finish on interior

·         Electronics seemed more intuitive, comes with Apple and Android compatibility 

·         Electronics are what Mrs. Supe wants – front/rear USB ports, etc.

·         Very quiet cabin – little road noise

·         Front passenger space felt bigger

·         Cargo capacity with seats both up and folded down is bigger, more headroom for two dogs

·         Smooth engine/transmission – felt like better acceleration than Subaru, doesn’t hunt for RPM’s as much

·         Overall safety rating tied the Outback, but the lane assist and cruise control of the CRV was lightyears ahead

·         More comfortable of the two cars in terms of ride quality – suspension is much better than previous years (you can do a quick lane change and not feel like its going to topple over), and soaks up the small bumps and rough surfaces much better than the Outback.

CRV Cons:

·         2WD

·         Interior fabric feels very cheap

Ties:

·         Front seats – Subaru is plushier, CRV is firmer.  CRV feels like it puts a slight push on your shoulders, but Subaru feels like it has a strange lumbar arrangement/push on your upper back.  Neither felt great, but I noticed the Subaru irritating me more after 15 minutes of driving.  Mrs. Supe didn’t seem to notice either way.

·         Both have the rear seat release handles in the cargo area

·         Pricing – About a wash with the 0% financing.  The out the door price on the Honda was slightly slower than the best price off invoice he could get us on the 2017’s.  They were anxious to get rid of them, so it was right around $3K off the Subaru invoice pricing, which was much more off sticker than we could get on the Honda.

·         Resale value – both hold well, the CRV is actually a bit better and is the #10 overall best car for resale.  The other 9 are all full size trucks.

Overall you couldn’t go wrong with either.  Both of us seemed to reach the same conclusion, though – the CRV felt like the better car overall for what we do with it.  If we NEEDED AWD, it would be a no brainer, because the CRV would outprice the Subaru at that point.  At the end of the day, neither of us could find anything wrong with the Honda other than the fact that the interior fabrics felt very cheap.


----------



## leggo PE

I've gotta take my suby in to get it's passenger air bag replaced in a few weeks.


----------



## knight1fox3

I don't recall ever servicing the transmission on any vehicles I've owned.


----------



## Supe

Honda wanted 3 yrs/30 mile fluid and filter change.  They're very picky with their friction modifiers apparently, and recommend that if you need to use a "compatible" fluid in a pinch (Dexron III), that you drain and flush as soon as you can to prevent shift issues.  I think what happens eventually is that the screen gets plugged, which starves the pump and the converter begins to eat itself.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Supe said:


> Confirmed Mrs. Supe fried the trans in her old CRV.  Fluid was dark brown and smelled like Kingsford.  Amazed she managed to go almost 150K on a trans that had never been serviced in its entire life (heh).


Don't know if you care, but you neglected to change a real name to a "Mrs. Supe" in the CRV Pros section.


----------



## Supe

wilheldp_PE said:


> Don't know if you care, but you neglected to change a real name to a "Mrs. Supe" in the CRV Pros section.


Thanks!  NBD, but I'll fix it anyways.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Most automatic trans need some level of regular service, but that typically comes at 60k or 100k intervals. I don't believe I've ever serviced a manual transmission, but I know it can be done.


----------



## MA_PE

I've never done it myself but I've had the fluid/filter changed on automatic trans typically at ~75k.  Nowadays I believe they typically run the fluid through an external filter and reuse it as opposed to drain and refilling.


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Most automatic trans need some level of regular service, but that typically comes at 60k or 100k intervals. I don't believe I've ever serviced a manual transmission, but I know it can be done.


Not needed with factory break ins.  Otherwise, you can basically do it once after a few thousand miles when all the parts have seated.  Even my racing transmission guy told me to leave it alone after break in, since it's really hard to cook a decent gear oil.


----------



## Dleg

Based on your pros/cons, the CRV sounds like the right choice for you guys. We picked up a  used 2011 Outback last year, but it is the deluxe model and is really nice - leather seats, Harmon Kardon sound system, heated seats (the BEST thing ever), etc etc. I do find the CVT a little strange, but it seems to work well.


----------



## csb

^ I've got the loaded model as well and the seats are way better than the entry level. It's even got heated rear seats.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> ^ I've got the loaded model as well and the seats are way better than the entry level. It's even got heated rear seats.


Strangely enough, I found the base cloth seats in the Outback to feel 10x more comfy than the leather one we drove.  I think the issue is something with the shape of the upper back protruding too much for me, because the problem was identical in the WRX.


----------



## Road Guy

Look if were going to use seat comfort as a way to justify purchasing a F’n Subaru were going to have to close this thread….


----------



## Dleg

Trigger points for RG:

- FTW

- Flat Earth

- Subarus


----------



## Road Guy

you left out:

using gas tax revenue for bike lanes


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

When we were shopping for a new car, the Crosstrek's were near the top of the list. I knew they struggled on the power side of things, but that was more prominent at elevation. At sea-level, they seemed just fine. While we were chatting with the salesman, I asked if we could upgrade to the STi seats since I thought they were more comfortable but the prices were way too high.


----------



## Road Guy




----------



## csb

We were in a meeting and this guy sees a muscle car in the Google street view and says, "That's a nice...what is that, a Fastback?" I lost my mind. It wasn't even a Ford, much less a Fastback. 

Is there a protocol to taking his man card for getting a Dodge Charger and a Ford Fastback confused?


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Look if were going to use seat comfort as a way to justify purchasing a F’n Subaru were going to have to close this thread….


I'm using as a way to further justify NOT buying a Subaru.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> View attachment 10243


Now you're hurting my feelings...We don't judge here.  It does say "Anything with an engine..."

@Road Guy  oking: @envirotex


----------



## envirotex

csb said:


> We were in a meeting and this guy sees a muscle car in the Google street view and says, "That's a nice...what is that, a Fastback?" I lost my mind. It wasn't even a Ford, much less a Fastback.
> 
> Is there a protocol to taking his man card for getting a Dodge Charger and a Ford Fastback confused?


Mustang fastback?


----------



## envirotex

Speaking of which...that's one of my mine on the bottom...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

It appears that you may have messed something up. Typically the chassis and wheels go underneath the body...


----------



## MA_PE

envirotex said:


> Speaking of which...that's one of my mine on the bottom...
> 
> View attachment 10247


How many do you have Eleanor?

nice rack!


----------



## envirotex

I have two, of course...


----------



## csb

envirotex said:


> Mustang fastback?


The one and only! 

We have a '65 one in our garage.


----------



## Road Guy

you serious clark?


----------



## Supe

Saw frost yesterday morning and realized that the Porsche only had straight water in it after the engine replacement  

Thankfully the temperature hadn't dropped enough to freeze yet, but it did mean I had to go over to my coworkers house as it was getting dark and drain the cooling system with the car still on the trailer.  Of course, it then decided to be non-cooperative and refused to bleed once I put coolant in it.  Ended up having to pull the upper radiator hose and fill through there to sort of prime the water pump, but at least its done.  

Now the car just needs an oil change.  I think based on the points I accumulated earlier this year, if I just make one timed lap on both days of our last race of the year, that'll be my third consecutive class championship, which would be a good way to retire that car.


----------



## Supe

DAMNIT.  After less than a week, the new drive by wire assembly crapped out again.  This one didn't feel right from the get-go.  Guess I get to limp my car there again tonight after 10:00 when the traffic dies off.


----------



## kevo_55

Pushing the car home would be a good workout.....


----------



## Supe

I'd prefer to push it off a cliff at this point and collect the insurance.


----------



## knight1fox3




----------



## Supe

So Mrs. Supe drove home in her CRV EX-L with everything but navigation on Saturday night.

We originally had an out the door price after a fill-in sales guy said that we had the friends and family discount. Before we went back to close the deal, we talked to the sales guy at the dealership her brother works at, and he quoted $1000 less out the door.  

So, we go back to the dealership.  At this point, I'm tired (because I had to change the f'ing truck tire in their parking lot Friday night after running over a wheel weight in their f*cking lot), I'm obviously hangry, and Ohio State is losing, so I'm not a happy camper.  I make a bit of a shit fit about how their salesman lied to us, and maybe happened to do so loud enough for some of the surrounding people to hear.  After some convening in a room with their obviously unhappy sales manager, they honored the lower price.  

What I failed to mention to them was that the quoted OTD price from the other dealership included the $500 toward Mrs. Supe's trash heap, but they signed off on OTD price matching WITHOUT factoring in the trade in.  So at the end of the day, we actually saved $1500 off the price we had previously agreed to (essentially giving us a $1000 trade in on a non-running 13 year old car with 143K on it...), which is something like 3 grand less than the national average, so she got a screaming deal.  It was one of the most frustrating experiences I've ever had in a dealership, though.  Our sales guy was fine, but everyone else there was slow as shit and a colossal bunch of assholes.


----------



## Road Guy

customer service in general is pretty terrible these days, sometimes I wish the economy would tank again just to put all these fuckers back on the street..(right after my 401K doubles and then I convert it to cash)

we were scoping out some tile at floor and décor (the one in my former hometown was pretty good) and we watched as this 60 year old lady was trying to pick up some of those bundles of tile and there were 3 employees just standing around looking at their phones and you could overhear one say (20 more minutes) - we went over and gave her a hand and then left.. but it seems this is the norm with the service industry right now, no one gives a fuck because its raining cash...


----------



## MA_PE

raining cash?   where.  Service sux because the workers don't give a f*ck period.


----------



## Road Guy

by raining cash I meant the overall economy is pretty strong, spending is up, people are buying shit regardless of how bad the people that work there treat them..


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> by raining cash I meant the overall economy is pretty strong, spending is up, people are buying shit regardless of how bad the people that work there treat them..


I know.  But service has been going down for quite a while because there is no accountability and the buyers accept it.  Very few people will cancel the transaction because the sales help are a-holes. They want the merchandise and tolerate the crappy service as the unfortunate means to the end.   Sad really.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

One the flip side of the coin, these workers are treated like shit day in and day out by asshole customers who demand everything under the sun and drag the manager out if they don't get it. You can be nice for so long before the unrelenting douchebaggery of customers wears you down.

Customers are assholes which make the sales staff not care who then in turn treat the customers like shit. It's a self-feeding downward spiral.


----------



## leggo PE

Good thing I had the reminder in my calendar to take my car in tomorrow morning! I remembered last week, but totally forgot over the weekend.


----------



## Road Guy

I do agree customers can be the problem but I worked in retail a long time and its maybe 10% that are true assholes (the short hair I want to see the manager look) - but what I see is pretty bad.. They may just be exchanging time for money and hate your job but you should still do it..

I had to get a building permit for my basement and they make you pay the sales tax up front for your materials, and then when you buy materials you don't pay the sales tax, I was dreading going to the one Home Depot that is actually in my city limits because it was god awfully staffed. I hadn't been there in 3 years, but it was totally obvious they had a new store manager because it was 100X better than it used to be so the culture can be changed if the company wants it to.


----------



## Dleg

I agree that customer service is in the shitter. Asshole customers are not the problem - there have always been asshole customers. That's part of the job. I see crap like at our local Wendy's this weekend, where we stopped before seeing Thor to get a burger, and waited in line for almost 30 minutes (3 people in front of us) while nine - 9 - employees goofed around behind the counter. One dude spent the entire 30 minutes refilling the sauce packet dispensers. Another spent the 30 minutes watching the monitor. The cash register girl wold take one order, and then spend the next 5-10 minutes filling it by herself while everyone else did other shit, apparently not related to serving customers.

That's not asshole customers, that's terrible management and even worse work ethic.


----------



## Supe

MF'er.  My POS Saturn has a bad ECU, and the repair place can't fix it, because you would need the dealer software to remap the VIN to the replacement.  Now I am at the mercy of a stealership.  MF'er...


----------



## kevo_55

They don't make Saturn's anymore. What kinda dealership did you take it to?


----------



## Supe

kevo_55 said:


> They don't make Saturn's anymore. What kinda dealership did you take it to?


I haven't.  My local repair place said I need to go to a dealership.  I'm going to have to find a GM dealer willing to service it.


----------



## kevo_55

Damn. That sucks. The really bad thing is that most likely that dealership that actually takes it would still need to order to part from somewhere.


----------



## Supe

kevo_55 said:


> Damn. That sucks. The really bad thing is that most likely that dealership that actually takes it would still need to order to part from somewhere.


Even worse - the part will likely come from Europe!


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> MF'er.  My POS Saturn has a bad ECU, and the repair place can't fix it, because you would need the dealer software to remap the VIN to the replacement.  Now I am at the mercy of a stealership.  MF'er...


Does this mean you'll also be the proud new owner of a Subaru? :dunno:


----------



## leggo PE

My Suby is the best!


----------



## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> Does this mean you'll also be the proud new owner of a Subaru? :dunno:


Honda just came out with sub 1% financing as an incentive to move the 2017 Civic Si's, so that is the likely replacement candidate right now.


----------



## kevo_55

At least spring for the Accord.


----------



## Supe

kevo_55 said:


> At least spring for the Accord.


The Si has nearly the same interior space, more power, better mileage, better manual transmission, bigger brakes, and magnetic ride suspension.  Downside is a slightly crappier interior and a smaller trunk.  As a racecar driver looking to save some bucks on a new car, the Si makes a lot more sense.


----------



## Road Guy

stumbled across this.. I have the cheap version of the jeep so no seat warmers.. Looks almost to good / simple to be true?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/24222_9001.htm?utm_campaign=shopping&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_source=bing


----------



## Dleg

I wonder how difficult the installation is? The web page says "advanced" level for the install. How about something cheap like these just to try it out:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013XT2Z6Q?aaxitk=pCUu2Y3oACTPTnDCk4c5iA


----------



## Supe

"Advanced" is because it requires disassembly of your seats for installation, and the ability to find a switched 12v source.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> "Advanced" is because it requires disassembly of your seats for installation, and the ability to find a switched 12v source.


agreed.  Seat disassembly may or may not be an easy task.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Nah, just put them on top of the seats and put new seat covers over the top.


----------



## envirotex

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Nah, just put them on top of the seats and put new seat covers over the top.


Easy peazy.  Just watch out for the little sparks...


----------



## Dleg

I wonder what that would do to the years of stored up farts in the seat cushion?


----------



## Supe




----------



## Supe

Heading to Savannah tomorrow with the Porsche for the last race of the year.  If I'm able to win my class both days, I'll lock in championship #3, and then its a mad dash to finish the RX7 for spring. 

Got my truck tire replaced at Discount last night.  The one just over the line in SC is awesome.  I didn't even spring for the "warranty" and they still prorated the bad tire and balanced the other one.  A new E load rating tire out the door in &lt;30 minutes for $59 ain't bad.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Not automotive related but it does have an engine.  I learned to drive on this tractor when I was 5 years old and inherited it from my uncle a few years ago.  I finally have the combination of time and a place to work on it so the tearing it down stage has started.  Pictures of the progress so far:

Tractor as it came off the farm:
















Cleaning and disassembly over the last few weeks:
























































Another day or two and I think it will be time to start cleaning parts and putting it back together.


----------



## MA_PE

That's cool flyer.  Nice shop too.  What's on the lift in the background?


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> That's cool flyer.  Nice shop too.  What's on the lift in the background?


The shop belongs to a friend of mine.  He's helping me out with the tractor in exchange for me helping him wire the car on the lift when the time comes.  It's a '66 Mustang Fastback.


----------



## mudpuppy

@Flyer_PE The tractor looks like it was in pretty good shape to begin with.  What all are you doing to it?


----------



## Flyer_PE

It wasn't terrible but it was leaking oil and the clutch was pretty well done.  The end goal is to put it pretty close to the condition it was in when it first arrived on the farm in July of 1970.  Its primary job going forward will be to look nice and shiny while towing a float in a parade or just sitting in one of the local farm shows.


----------



## kevo_55

Looks like a nice project!

When it's done, I expect you to have some flames painted on the tractor body somewhere.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^ There's a better chance of flames on this tractor than the turbo charger that my friend with the shop is advocating.  I may opt for a little chrome for a couple of items that are typically painted black.


----------



## Master slacker

That thing needs a turbo and NAWS!


----------



## Dleg

That looks like fun. Anyone else here ever take a tractor design class? One of the benefits of going to an ag school - took "design of off-highway vehicles" thinking I would be designing 4X4s or tanks. Nope, it was all about tractors. Good memories though and good class, too.


----------



## kevo_55

I'm still expecting this:


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I may go for the chrome stack.  That 40hp Perkins may have a little trouble turning the shaved pullin' tires though.


----------



## mudpuppy

Do they require roll cages on pulling tractors now?  Weak.


----------



## Flyer_PE

mudpuppy said:


> Do they require roll cages on pulling tractors now?  Weak.


To be fair, calling that thing a tractor is a bit of a stretch.  The only thing it has in common with anything produced by John Deere is the paint color and a couple of decals.


----------



## Supe

mudpuppy said:


> Do they require roll cages on pulling tractors now?  Weak.


Probably wish you had one when a 14-71 supercharger comes raining from the sky after 4 engines let go!


----------



## Road Guy

So going through a weird thing with the Jeep, for about the last two months its been randomly pulling out of first gear, Say you are at a red light and move forward it will about once a week just pop out of gear. First time it happened It was so loud I really thought I had been rear ended.

At first I thought maybe I just wasn’t engaging it all the way but after it kept happening did some online reading of jeepforum and see this is a fairly common event with their 6 speeds.

Take it to the stealership and drive around with one of their techs and of course it doesn’t happen. They give the standard line they cant fix anything under warranty unless they witness the problem. No stored codes relating to the clutch….

Normally I buy a manual because they generally cause the transmission to last LONGER!!!!!

More reading online rumors are that Jeep hasn’t determined the “root cause” and a recall fix has not been issued but may be forthcoming, but the scum bags at the dealership act like they have never heard of this problem before…

Not really sure what to do but since their resale value is still very strong I am giving serious thoughts to just selling it and getting one with an automatic. Sucks cause I really like this vehicle.. but glad I haven’t dumped money into it yet(lift, tires, etc)

Anyone have some similar with the good old dealership people? But to me this is a major safety issue, if it happened while one of my kids was driving it I don’t know for certain they would know to just put it back in gear and drive on?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Jumping out of gear isn't a clutch issue.  It's going to be either a problem with the shift mechanism or (more likely in my opinion) a problem internal to the transmission itself.  I wouildn't be surprised if there are little pieces of gear teeth riding around in the bottom of the transmission.


----------



## Road Guy

some are saying they modified the "shifter boot plate" ?? (grinded off some metal) and that solved the problem for them - not sure If I am ready to do that myself at this point with a 2015 vehicle


----------



## Supe

If you don't feel the shifter hit a hard stop when putting it in first, then grinding a cover isn't going to fix it.


----------



## Road Guy

now that I think back its occasionally been a little rough getting it into first gear ever since I owned it - not all the time.. but I know I have tendency to "play" with the gear shifter some while sitting at the red light...


----------



## Ble_PE

Road Guy said:


> but I know I have tendency to "play" with the gear shifter some while sitting at the red light...


What's the fun in having a stick if you can't play with it on occasion?


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> now that I think back its occasionally been a little rough getting it into first gear ever since I owned it - not all the time.. but I know I have tendency to "play" with the gear shifter some while sitting at the red light...


Sounds like the synchros have been defective since day one.


----------



## MA_PE

Ble_PE said:


> What's the fun in having a stick if you can't play with it on occasion?


you can play with an automatic stick as well.  Not to mention paddles.


----------



## Dleg

MA_PE said:


> you can play with an automatic stick as well.  Not to mention paddles.


----------



## Road Guy

I have two sticks in the jeep, but only two hands, so sometimes that makes driving tough...


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> I have two sticks in the jeep, but only two hands, so sometimes that makes driving tough...


Isn't first a granny gear in that jeep, or did they reserve that for the truck 6-speeds? I think my first truck ('84 s-10) was the only one where first gear wasn't a granny gear.

I only use first when starting out with a heavy load (over 5 tons on the hitch) or needing to crawl down the street in idle during a traffic jam. Then again i don't have a Jeep.


----------



## Road Guy

I'm not sure if its  true granny gear, but you can start in 2nd but its not like the "old school" 2nd gears I am used to where you can get up to speed quickly through 2nd.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I doubt it's a granny gear.  The ones I'm used to are marked on the shift pattern as "L" rather than "1" and the are not synchronized.


----------



## blybrook PE

Ok, figured I'd ask. My truck has a 1, but it's a granny gear. There's no point unless you really need to crawl along or need extra torque. I'm nearly always starting in 2nd.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^The "L" might have been just a Chevy thing too.  it's all we had on the farm.  The pattern was labeled as marked as L-1-2-3 and the only sure way to shift into "L" without grinding the gear was to be at a complete stop.


----------



## Road Guy

Want 

(sorry for the bad photos)


----------



## envirotex

I need reasons why this is a bad idea...go.

https://victoriatx.craigslist.org/cto/d/1970-ford-mustang/6439738967.html


----------



## Road Guy

You live too far for me to drive it


----------



## MA_PE

needs a full resto.  Looks like the interior been changed out so you really don't have any clue from the ad of how many mods that car has been through.  non-running so offer him $3500-4000 and see how badly he needs/wants to get rid of it.  Could be nice but will never be an "original".  I suspect you'll have at least $10-15k and a bunch of sweat in it before you can drive it to local shows.  Plus side - it's a ragtop.


----------



## envirotex

MA_PE said:


> non-running so offer him $3500-4000 and see how badly he needs/wants to get rid of it.


I thought about this too...if all it needs is a distributor, and he's got it in hand, then why doesn't he just put it on there and get it running...?  He could sell it for more.


----------



## jeb6294

POS...I'd be willing to bet that it is more putty than metal at this point.


----------



## Road Guy

any of you with older vehicles have an issue with the electronic windows taking forever to roll up or down?  It seems all the switches work but you almost need to plan ahead if you want to roll a window down?  I replaced the main drivers switches out a few years ago when it broke, but all of them, even the sunroof just seem like they are in low gear?


----------



## FLBuff PE




----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> any of you with older vehicles have an issue with the electronic windows taking forever to roll up or down?  It seems all the switches work but you almost need to plan ahead if you want to roll a window down?  I replaced the main drivers switches out a few years ago when it broke, but all of them, even the sunroof just seem like they are in low gear?


It is definitely not uncommon to have the motors wear and get slow with time.  Switches only switch in the 12V to the motors/regulators.  Unfortunately the best solution is to replace the motors.


----------



## knight1fox3

MA_PE said:


> It is definitely not uncommon to have the motors wear and get slow with time.  Switches only switch in the 12V to the motors/regulators.  Unfortunately the best solution is to replace the motors.


x 2. I had to do this on a previous vehicle. Not too bad once the door panel is off.


----------



## Road Guy

Well since one of the door panels has already fallen off maybe one of them would be easy to do


----------



## Supe

Brushes get worn out.  Its usually a few screws behind the plastic and you can fish the whole regulator assembly out the bottom.  I've done probably a dozen of them now.  GM trucks from the late 90s-mid 2000's were notorious.


----------



## knight1fox3

I'm intrigued by this new offering from Ford:  http://fox6now.com/2018/01/14/ford-brings-back-the-ranger/

Will be interesting to see what they price them at.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

I was going to say Rangers are all over the place here. It's amazing how many manufacturers make small trucks outside the US. VW, Mazda, Ford, Holden, and a couple Asian brands I had never heard of before.

The funny thing is that the Ranger and Colorado are the biggest trucks you can buy here.


----------



## knight1fox3

Dexman PE PMP said:


> I was going to say Rangers are all over the place here. It's amazing how many manufacturers make small trucks outside the US. VW, Mazda, Ford, Holden, and a couple Asian brands I had never heard of before.
> The funny thing is that the Ranger and Colorado are the biggest trucks you can buy here.


Old or the new style Rangers linked above?

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The "new" ones.

https://www.ford.co.nz/commercial/ranger/


----------



## MetsFan

Just finished changing out the battery on my G37. It was dead when we got back from the holidays and it's died a couple of times already so I figured it was time. It only took me around 30 minutes as opposed to the bimmer. That car took me 2 hours of trying to get that battery out and the new one in.


----------



## Dleg

OK, automotive mystery here. Who can guess (or who knows) what is going on in this picture. (I know). Clue: this is in Fairbanks, AK and it is -30F today.


----------



## Road Guy

I think car companies test out new vehicles use those type coverings to keep people from seeing them before they roll out to the showroom. I actually saw the new JL Jeep wrapped up in a similar "coat" this past summer before the pics were leaked online.

maybe some new vehicle is being tested in the cold..

(similar thing below


----------



## Flyer_PE

Same guess here.  A buddy of mine used to do some of the testing for Ford.  International Falls (aka Frostbite Falls) in Winter was one he wasn't all that fond of.  He also did some towing tests dragging trailers up and down hills in CO.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

They test a ton of cars like this in CO. Like RG said, they're wrapped up to hide the actual shape from the general public while they're road testing next generation vehicles. Looks like they're doing some extreme cold testing in AK.

Most of the "spy shots" of highly anticipated vehicles start this way. The other thing they will do is a vinyl wrap with odd patterns to hide bodylines (this is a 6th gen Camaro prototype):


----------



## Road Guy

when I first moved here @cement and I were driving around and we saw some type of similar get up but sports cars driving through the mountains, wouldn't be a bad gig..


----------



## mudpuppy

Living near the Motor City we see a lot of these on the highway, sometimes in convoys.  A friend of mine works at the Chrysler proving grounds here, and he frequently goes to Colorado to do high-altitude testing, and Nevada to do high-temperature testing (sometimes both on the same trip.)  I'll have to ask him why he hasn't volunteered for low-temperature testing in Alaska.


----------



## Dleg

Yep that's what it was. One of my staff took the pic, said he could see inside and he's pretty sure it's a Chevy.


----------



## kevo_55

In MN we call those wuss cars. 

It's kinda the same principle if you put a coat on your dog.

....... or do you?


----------



## knight1fox3

Stumbled across these articles over my lunch break today:

Top 10 Most Dependable Automakers: 2018 J.D. Power

Top 10 Least Dependable Automakers: 2018 J.D. Power


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Glad that nothing I own is on the second list.  Of course nothing I own is on the first list either.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

My two cars fall within #s 5 &amp; 6 on the Most Dependable list.


----------



## jeb6294

Doing it by “automaker” is a bit iffy. You’re lumping all their cars together but sometimes automakers make cars at different plants and that’s what decides how dependable a car is. I always heard *when* the car is made has a lot to do with it.

i didn’t see the Ford Super Duties on either list, but I know it is always towards the top of the list for vehicles on the road with 100k+ miles.


----------



## MA_PE

Why are Dodge and Ram separate automakers?


----------



## User1

MA_PE said:


> Why are Dodge and Ram separate automakers?


this was my thought! and then i was like oh maybe i just misunderstood all these years?? glad i'm not alone. haha.


----------



## Road Guy

I think the data source is probably too general.  Wish they were vehicle make specific versus manufacture specific  (i.e. Ford Focus versus Ford F150)

I have owned a Dodge Durango and had some fairly major problems with it, luckily most of them were under the warranty and didn't cost me much more than the time nuisance of dealing with it. Out of all the brands I have owned they are probably the only one I would never own again.


----------



## mudpuppy

MA_PE said:


> Why are Dodge and Ram separate automakers?




Fiat split Ram from the Dodge brand a few years ago.  So now they can have yet another brand on the least reliable list.

My dad sold cars for many years, and for a while he sold Chrysler/Plymouth/Dodge.  After he moved to Lincoln/Mercury he'd tell people he'd rather see his sister turning tricks on the corner than to sell someone a Dodge.  Then my aunt showed up with her new PT Cruiser.


----------



## Supe

So after spending another $400 to fix the Saturn and having it in a semi-repaired state for a whole one day, the AC shits out on our first 80+ degree day of 2018.  Of course, that's in addition to needing a new steering angle sensor, fixing the steering column, needing four new tires, and being due for a new timing belt. 

Threw in the towel, headed to Honda the next morning.  Will be picking my my 2018 Civic Si sedan as soon as it shows up, probably tonight or tomorrow.  I didn't want one in black, so they're bringing a white one in from one of the other dealerships.  Couldn't say no to the 1.9% financing for 60 months, since they almost never offer any special rates on the oddball/sports-oriented models.  It'll be nice not having to fold myself in half so Junior can get in the backseat anymore.


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> So after spending another $400 to fix the Saturn and having it in a semi-repaired state for a whole one day, the AC shits out on our first 80+ degree day of 2018.  Of course, that's in addition to needing a new steering angle sensor, fixing the steering column, needing four new tires, and being due for a new timing belt.
> 
> Threw in the towel, headed to Honda the next morning.  Will be picking my my 2018 Civic Si sedan as soon as it shows up, probably tonight or tomorrow.  I didn't want one in black, so they're bringing a white one in from one of the other dealerships.  Couldn't say no to the 1.9% financing for 60 months, since they almost never offer any special rates on the oddball/sports-oriented models.  It'll be nice not having to fold myself in half so Junior can get in the backseat anymore.


Didn't your car criteria include rear wheel drive?  Just kidding, congrats!

Speaking of AC, I think my Jeep blew a hole in the evaporator.  Was driving down the road, weird smell occurred and then oil dripping from the blower motor onto the floormat.  At first I thought it was the heater core, but it's definitely oil and not coolant.  Only dripped for a little while and then stopped.  Will have to wait a couple months for it to warm up to test the AC, but I can't think of any other explanation.


----------



## Supe

mudpuppy said:


> Didn't your car criteria include rear wheel drive?  Just kidding, congrats!


Normally, yes, but unfortunately any RWD *sedan* worth owning is literally double the price and then some.  Otherwise, I would have bought a used Mustang or Camaro.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

HSV Commodore. RWD, supercharded V8.

Basically a 4-door Camaro on steroids.


----------



## Supe

Yes.  And not 25 years old, therefore irrelevant, and basically the Chevy SS, which is over $50K and no longer produced...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Technically, the Chevy SS is a re-badged Commodore. And they are still very much in production... as long as you can drive a right-hand-drive car and are willing to import something from Australia...

Mrs Dex won't let me buy one because they're $60k and gas hogs (roughly $6USD per gallon if I converted it correctly - $2.20NZD/liter). It's also why the Camaro sits in the garage for 6 days a week. Bastard costs me ~$15 a day to drive it to work between gas and parking.


----------



## jeb6294

MA_PE said:


> Why are Dodge and Ram separate automakers?


I think the official answer was so both brands could focus more on their specific type of cars, i.e. cars for Dodge and trucks for Ram.  No one else does it so I'm sure there was some other reason involving $$$.  Maybe the trucks were the only thing keeping Dodge in the black so if they split, then Dodge becomes a write-off for them.



Supe said:


> Yes.  And not 25 years old, therefore irrelevant, and basically the Chevy SS, which is over $50K and no longer produced...


Before I got my last truck, I looked at a pre-owned G8.  It was a fun ride, but that was the thing that kept me from getting it.  Guy kept telling me that parts and service wouldn't be a problem but the fact that it wasn't being made anymore and Pontiac didn't even exist anymore bothered me.


----------



## csb

Dexman PE PMP said:


> Technically, the Chevy SS is a re-badged Commodore. And they are still very much in production... as long as you can drive a right-hand-drive car and are willing to import something from Australia...
> 
> Mrs Dex won't let me buy one because they're $60k and gas hogs (roughly $6USD per gallon if I converted it correctly - $2.20NZD/liter). It's also why the Camaro sits in the garage for 6 days a week. Bastard costs me ~$15 a day to drive it to work between gas and parking.


I thought Mordor was within walking distance?


----------



## Supe

And I can't imagine the garages would be big enough to park a full-size vehicle for that matter.


----------



## Road Guy

speaking of garages, finally getting around to looking at spending some lift money on the jeep, and just even 33's and 3" lift is going to make it where my roof is going to scrape parking in the garage 

so that just means go ahead and get 35's?


----------



## csb

Supe said:


> And I can't imagine the garages would be big enough to park a full-size vehicle for that matter.


Heh.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> And I can't imagine the garages would be big enough to park a full-size vehicle for that matter.


Funny enough, the Camaro barely fits in one side of my 2-car garage. Has about 6" to spare. It doesn't fit on the other side.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

csb said:


> I thought Mordor was within walking distance?


Mordor is within walking distance from everywhere if you're motivated enough.  Just ask the Hobbitses.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

wilheldp_PE said:


> Mordor is within walking distance from everywhere if you're motivated enough.  Just ask the Hobbitses.


Dumbasses could have just called the eagles and the whole trip completed in a few hours...


----------



## Supe

Picked up the new car last night.  Got tired of waiting around, so told them I'll bring it back when its not raining to be detailed.


----------



## mudpuppy

Since we moved out to the country, my wife has had some trouble getting around in the winter in general, and especially getting up the hill at the end of our private road when it's snowy or icy.  She has a 2011 Nissan Versa with with about 130k miles on it.

Since she's from the south and not very experienced driving in slippery conditions, we're looking at getting her something AWD.  One factor is she is diminutive, so it has to be something she can reach the steering wheel and pedals, and also see over the hood.  Right now she's driving a loaner Nissan Rouge from the dealer because they screwed up the airbag recall in her car, and she's not comfortable in the Rogue at all.

We're leaning toward a 2017 or 2018 Escape.  We rented one at Christmas time and she was comfortable driving it.  Now trying to decide whether to buy new, or try to find a low-mileage used one.  Of course she wants the top trim level (Titanium), and it looks like about $4k or so price difference from new to used.  Usually I'm pretty cheap, but it's tempting to go for the new one so we have confidence in where it's been.  A lot of the 2017 used ones are former rentals.

Her mom is pissed we're not considering a Kia Sportage because she has one.  My brother in law works for Kia in Georgia so he can get us a discount, but (1) it's a Kia (BIL doesn't even own one himself), and (2) she wasn't very comfortable in her mom's.


----------



## Supe

Honda CRV or Subaru Outback.  You can still get 0% financing on the Outbacks, or you can get I think 1.9% on the Honda as part of their President's day deal.


----------



## Road Guy

I'm from the south and I am dominating winter driving  /emoticons/[email protected] 2x" width="20" height="20">


----------



## mudpuppy

Supe said:


> Honda CRV or Subaru Outback.  You can still get 0% financing on the Outbacks, or you can get I think 1.9% on the Honda as part of their President's day deal.


Looks like those are both CVTs.  Are CVTs as crappy as they used to be, or becoming more reliable?

I'll certainly consider any option, but to be completely honest, it would be a leap for me to buy a new "foreign" vehicle.  I know that every vehicle comes from all over the world, (heck, my Aveo is really a Daewoo) and a lot of these are assembled in the USA , but when Ford and GM are headquartered within an hour drive of my house, and I know a lot of people who work for the Big 3, it's hard to break that loyalty.  Plus I get a supplier discount at all three.  That being said, if the right thing came along I just might buy it.


----------



## csb

I loved my Escape until it shit the bed on I-70.


----------



## Supe

They have come a very long way in both performance and reliability.

FYI, the Honda 1.5T engines are built in Ohio, and the CRV's are assembled in OH, IN, or Ontario.  My Si was from Ohio as well.  Nothing stacked up against either car in their price range, though I think the standard features tipped the Subaru's direction once you decided 4WD was a necessity.


----------



## knight1fox3

The Escapes look decent, but they appear to have shrunk from their previous design (like what CSB had). I also like all the latest interface/navigation features that Ford has to offer (just had a rental recently). But for me personally, I'm too much of a cheapskate to justify buying a brand new vehicle off the lot. With a little digging via a vehicle's VIN, I can usually find out exactly where a vehicle has been previously and what kind of maintenance it has had (or not had).

So Mrs. MP isn't going for the F-350 4x4 dually diesel extended cab? :dunno:


----------



## jeb6294

This should work nicely...https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/727147125/overview/

In all honesty, if she can't drive around in a FWD then going to AWD isn't going to fix it.  Now, if you're thinking of replacing your Nissan anyway, then I am always one to recommend getting an AWD over a FWD if you can swing it...the whole better to have it and not need it.  Resale tends to be better also.


----------



## Road Guy

The strong American market for 4WD seems to be mostly in the truck market and Jeep Wrangler  (Cherokee / Liberty / New renegade thing/ etc not a "jeep")

I do seem to know a ton of people who had issues with escapes (CSB and Krak here also) but maybe those were older ones..

The wife wanted true full time AWD so she doesn't have to make a "decision" regarding when to switch to 4WD here (chic thing I guess) - she got a Toyota highlander, which she now regrets not getting a Tacoma or 4Runner - but we bought a used one and it looks like she is formulating a plan to let the elder kid take the highlander to college so she can get her Tacoma..

The Highlander does okay up to around 2" of snow but it slides a lot - we have an old Tahoe (2002) which is a tank and its honestly my preferred vehicle when there is more than 4" of the Connecticut Confetti falling...

We had a Ford Explorer back in the day which was AWD but it was total junk IMO - I think it was a 1999. But that thing had major issues, and most were due to "features" always breaking and causing other issues....


----------



## mudpuppy

I'm sure she'd love the excursion or the F350 dually crew cab.... but there is a budget.

I have the same concerns about AWD vs. 4WD, but real 4WD is a lot harder to find these days, and being inexperienced in winter driving we have the same concerns as Mrs. RG about when she'll decide to lock in.  Plus we have my XJ for when the snow is really bad.  

Jeb, I generally agree with you that AWD isn't going to make things better if she can't drive her FWD car, with the exception of getting up the hills on our road and our driveway.  Having some power to the rear wheels when going uphill on ice makes a huge difference.  My main concern is her not being able to get home when I'm not around, as my neighbor's wife had that problem several times this winter with her Civic.


----------



## Road Guy

It would be nice if they would start making the XJ again....


----------



## Supe

mudpuppy said:


> I'm sure she'd love the excursion or the F350 dually crew cab.... but there is a budget.
> 
> I have the same concerns about AWD vs. 4WD, but real 4WD is a lot harder to find these days, and being inexperienced in winter driving we have the same concerns as Mrs. RG about when she'll decide to lock in.  Plus we have my XJ for when the snow is really bad.
> 
> Jeb, I generally agree with you that AWD isn't going to make things better if she can't drive her FWD car, with the exception of getting up the hills on our road and our driveway.  Having some power to the rear wheels when going uphill on ice makes a huge difference.  My main concern is her not being able to get home when I'm not around, as my neighbor's wife had that problem several times this winter with her Civic.


I will say that our old CRV (2005) with AWD was killer in the snow/ice.  I used to take that thing everywhere, even when the roads were a solid sheet, as was the norm in NC for the once a year snow.


----------



## csb

We've had a bit of snow of late and I've been enjoying seeing what the Outback can do. 

FWIW, Subaru got rid of the timing belt which was an issue on the CVT.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Never thought I'd say this, but don't knock Kia. They've really stepped up their game the last few years and actually have a lot of value for the price. We would have gotten the Sportage, but found the Cerato -(aka Forte) had all the same features minus the AWD for a lot less. It's something worth at least a test drive.


----------



## MA_PE

4WD/AWD/FWD/RWD My experience is that with respect to getting around on snow covered roads, it really doesn't matter a lot of you've got real snow tires on the vehicle.  If you've got all-weather tires (such as OEM equipment on new vehicles) the it's a real crapshoot how you'll fare in the snow.

As far as CVTs, my wife has a 2005 Ford Freestyle with ~150k on it and aside from the "slushy" feel of accelerating with no defined gears it (knock on wood) has been trouble free since she first got it with 25k on the odometer.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> *4WD/AWD/FWD/RWD My experience is that with respect to getting around on snow covered roads, it really doesn't matter a lot of you've got real snow tires on the vehicle*.  If you've got all-weather tires (such as OEM equipment on new vehicles) the it's a real crapshoot how you'll fare in the snow.
> 
> As far as CVTs, my wife has a 2005 Ford Freestyle with ~150k on it and aside from the "slushy" feel of accelerating with no defined gears it (knock on wood) has been trouble free since she first got it with 25k on the odometer.


I used to feel this way, but it also does depend on the vehicle as to whether a RWD is really snow capable. Even with real snow tires, a lot of RWD cars (not trucks) simply don't work in snowy/icy roads. I could get around in my Camaro, but there were a lot of places that quickly became off limits after a couple inches of snow...


----------



## Road Guy

I admit, and its still weird to see, but there are more than you would imagine prius type vehicles with (I assume) snow tires that make their way to the mountains here during fairly heavy snowfalls..

I got behind a dude in a Cadillac- (it was obvious RWD and not able to advance) a few weekends ago heading up to the tunnel (its about a 6% grade) - even with a well plowed road, but still snowing he caused everyone behind him at least another 30 minutes of having to drive around his ass- I think he had California plates..


----------



## MA_PE

Dexman PE PMP said:


> I used to feel this way, but it also does depend on the vehicle as to whether a RWD is really snow capable. Even with real snow tires, a lot of RWD cars (not trucks) simply don't work in snowy/icy roads. I could get around in my Camaro, but there were a lot of places that quickly became off limits after a couple inches of snow...


That's when you add sandbags in the trunk.  The posi and TCS will help too.  The one limiting factor with a sports car might be the ground clearance.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> That's when you add sandbags in the trunk.  The posi and TCS will help too.  The one limiting factor with a sports car might be the ground clearance.


It also has to do with the contact area of the tires. Sports cars tend to have much wider tires and don't "cut through" the snow or concentrate the weight well enough to maintain a good static coefficient of friction on ice. It's also why those FWD cars with the big 20" wheels tend to struggle.

The guys who have the best luck with RWD cars have narrower wheel/tire combos as well as snow/ice specific treads.

For the Camaro, the contact area of a standard rear wheel is about 27 sq.in., but by simply reducing it from a 9" wheel to an 8" wheel it changes the weight distribution from 30 psi to 34 psi (3300 lb curb weight divided by 4 wheels, divided by contact area - 3in by 9in vs 3x8). You'd need about 200lbs of sandbags to have the same effect.


----------



## Supe

I am amazed at how well the mechanical diff in my Si works.  ZERO torque steer.  It's an eerie feeling in a front wheel drive car, especially when I test drove the Focus ST about a year or two ago and it was practically undriveable without fighting the wheel and guessing what the brake-based traction control would do.


----------



## MA_PE

Dexman PE PMP said:


> It also has to do with the contact area of the tires. Sports cars tend to have much wider tires and don't "cut through" the snow or concentrate the weight well enough to maintain a good static coefficient of friction on ice. It's also why those FWD cars with the big 20" wheels tend to struggle.
> 
> The guys who have the best luck with RWD cars have narrower wheel/tire combos as well as snow/ice specific treads.
> 
> For the Camaro, the contact area of a standard rear wheel is about 27 sq.in., but by simply reducing it from a 9" wheel to an 8" wheel it changes the weight distribution from 30 psi to 34 psi (3300 lb curb weight divided by 4 wheels, divided by contact area - 3in by 9in vs 3x8). You'd need about 200lbs of sandbags to have the same effect.


not sure I agree with that.  Pressure might be a factor on ice where you're heavily relying on COF to get traction.  Aggressive tire tread pattern gets you through snow as it "bites" into the snow.  Performance tires are more about the stickiness of the rubber meeting the road.  FWIW, most of the heavy construction equipment use big tires to reduce the pressure under the tires so they don't sink into the top soil/mud but they have knobby treads which will grab the loose media (aka soil) and push them through.


----------



## Road Guy

from the redneck world of driving through the mud yall are way overthinking this, bigger tires always better, weight over axle, hold my beer, roll tide, etc...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> not sure I agree with that.  Pressure might be a factor on ice where you're heavily relying on COF to get traction.  Aggressive tire tread pattern gets you through snow as it "bites" into the snow.  Performance tires are more about the stickiness of the rubber meeting the road.  FWIW, most of the heavy construction equipment use big tires to reduce the pressure under the tires so they don't sink into the top soil/mud but they have knobby treads which will grab the loose media (aka soil) and push them through.


When it comes to snow, you don't necessarily want to float on it like a piece of equipment in the mud. You want to sink down to the asphalt. Two ways to do that, reduced footprint of the tire (narrower width and smaller diameter), and more weight (add sandbags).  This is why those tiny FWD cars like Prius' work so well. Small wheels and the bulk of the weight over the drive axle. They sink to the asphalt Cars like a Camaro have plenty of weight, but they tend to float because their contact area is too big. These cars are also more likely to hydroplane in wet conditions for the same reason.  Sandbags are much more effective in Trucks because their rear axles don't have nearly as much weight.

That does change when there is ice under the snow, where the snow itself provides more grip.


----------



## Road Guy

its what make a Subaru, a Subaru...


----------



## knight1fox3




----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> its what make a Subaru, a Subaru...


I thought this is what made a Subaru a Subaru....


----------



## envirotex

Thinking about some tall and skinnies for the Bronco...


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> its what make a Subaru, a Subaru...


----------



## Dleg

Our roads are icy and/or snowy for 6 months straight here. No breaks. I drive a 4WD Toyota 4Runner, my wife drives a Subaru Forester, and my daughter drives an Outback. Both the Subarus are superior to  the 4Runner in these conditions - I use them whenever I am able.


----------



## knight1fox3

envirotex said:


> Thinking about some tall and skinnies for the Bronco...
> 
> View attachment 10866


Will those fit on my Rover?? :dunno:


----------



## Dean Agnostic

envirotex said:


> Thinking about some tall and skinnies for the Bronco...
> 
> View attachment 10866


Will those fit on my corolla?  :dunno:


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Dean Agnostic said:


> Will those fit on my corolla?  :dunno:


Duh.


----------



## leggo PE

Dleg said:


> Our roads are icy and/or snowy for 6 months straight here. No breaks. I drive a 4WD Toyota 4Runner, my wife drives a Subaru Forester, and my daughter drives an Outback. Both the Subarus are superior to  the 4Runner in these conditions - I use them whenever I am able.


This!

My Suby got us up to the mountain last weekend without even needing chains, when it was easily snowing 3"/hour at the time we were driving up. I don't need the AWD that much of the time any more besides instances such as this, but it was great to have when I was living in VT too, for the same reason. It handles so well in really tough conditions, and is made to last.


----------



## Supe

Argggggh.

Went to put coolant in the race car finally, which is quite a task due to the configuration of the system.  Finally get it full, and see some pinhole leaks in the radiator where some tabs were welded on.  WTF?  Spent the next four hours chasing cracks and weeping from pinholes I can't even see.  The casting of the end tanks is just so atrocious, I can't get a decent weld no matter what.  Then I put my hand underneath and feel that the core itself has a leak near the passenger side end tank! 

FTS.  Old radiator tossed in the trash (it looked like an ebay special that came with the car when I bought it 7 years ago, but I figured I could make it work).  Ordered a new "DIY" kit of roughly the same dimensions to weld up and make it right.  The bummer is that the dimensions will be different, so all the time I spent fabricating the mounting system will have to change, and I may have to change the ducting configuration also.  If I'm lucky, the lower supports will still work, and I can just build off them.  Plan this time around is to make clamshell brackets that squeeze the radiator to hold it, rather than welded tabs.  Should mitigate any fatigue issues, which was my worry with V1.0 anyways.


----------



## Road Guy

and this is something people do for fun?


----------



## Supe

It's my retirement plan. 

You know, work on it enough that my arthritis accelerates to the point where I can go out on disability.


----------



## Road Guy

so we have been on the lookout for a slightly less piece of crap for RG JR #1 to take to college in August. wasn't in a hurry to do it this soon, but the lady I cohabitate with saw a nice jeep on _the craigslist _so we go check it out. its a 2004 jeep Rubicon, I6, Automatic, hard top, lift, etc - been really well taken care of - we pull up to the house to check it out and there is a pretty nice old school Harley and a 60's something chevy truck completely restored to the max, I take that as a good sign (gearheads)

take it for a spin, runs great. then I learn the guy selling it doesn't like "confrontation" so he is letting a buddy of his sell it for him - wonderful - learn the buddy is a car salesman.

These things, even with 150,000 + miles here still sell for decent money, they had it listed around $8800 - which I though was not bad but offered like $7500 just to get the negotiations started - we ended up agreeing to $8K, which still seemed a little high but the thing was in excellent shape (probably too nice for an 18 year old). it had probably $2 grand in new tires on it ( which I was thinking of putting on my jeep to be honest) - so I kept asking the guy for the VIN # and started to get a weird feeling, he said he would send me the carfax, I told him I didn't mind paying for it, says he will send, then it never comes, delays all day Sunday, delays all day Monday, never sent either vin # or carfax (I should have gotten when I drove it)

I was supposed to meet him today at lunch and just got a weird feeling Monday morning so I get one of those "text free" apps and text him to see if the jeep is available and the guy tells fake me (doesn't know its me) yeah I still have it available but now wants $9500 for it &amp; sends me a link to a new craigslist ad where he added some stuff to the description.. fake me also says I want to come look at it tonight, very interested, fake me offers $9500 sight unseen if he will send fake me the vin # - then crickets, can't meet tonight, maybe tomorrow... long story short real me figured something was going weird so I just dropped communication with him Monday morning when he wouldn't give me the vin#. I am currently texting him from 3 different fake text free numbers just to seem overly interested and see what shakes out - currently asking if he will meet me about half an hour from the dudes house with cash &amp; title... figure I can at the very least waste some of his time..

Also weird he keeps posting the ad on craigslist for like an hour and then removes, and them reposts it?  very strange..

Not sure if something is wrong with the title but I got really weirded out when he wouldn't give me the VIN# ? Claimed to have the title but never saw it.. defin strange... and what a total waste of my Sunday!


----------



## wilheldp_PE

It's stolen.  His "friend that doesn't like confrontation" is the victim.


----------



## Road Guy

Dealt with the car salesman over the phone/text and met the owner at his house - I stalked him via the city GIS database and the name checked out. But still glad I walked...

Anyone else want to harass the car salesman via fake text number?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Wonder what he would do if I sent him a text from a NZ number...


----------



## csb

Maybe they are not wanting to go low? Like he's rolling the dice, hoping for more money, and now he thinks he has four fish on the hook?


----------



## Flyer_PE

If the seller is unwilling to cough up the VIN#, something is off.  Better to keep looking.


----------



## jeb6294

Odd that they go to the trouble of letting you see the thing...usually with scams they try to get $$$ without having an actual car.  Definitely strange.  I wonder if he is adding/deleting ads on CL or if he's done this enough times that people are flagging it and getting his ads taken down because they know it's a fake ad.


----------



## jeb6294

Doing a quick search, even his asking price is several thousand lower than what an '04 Rubicon would usually list for.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Tractor Update:

Finally got a little bit of decent weather to support cleaning, blasting, and painting.  We had two nice days last week before the weather turned back to crap so we shifted the schedule for blasting and painting.  The plan was to have it on shiny new wheels and tires when it came out of paint but it didn't work out that way.  Had to put it back on the old wheels to make room in the booth for other parts and the Mustang which is nearing paint-ready status as well.

 









































Moved it to the latest location by hand.  The next time it moves should be under its own power.


----------



## Road Guy

csb said:


> Maybe they are not wanting to go low? Like he's rolling the dice, hoping for more money, and now he thinks he has four fish on the hook?


I think that is it - I think the owner told his car salesman buddy he could sell it as long as he got $X and then the sales guy  is just trying to get as much extra as he can.

It has 150K miles on it, when I ran it through KBB it was at the middle end of what we offered for the private sale. Both Inline 6 jeeps I had went to 225K miles before any issues - so I wasn't too concerned about the mileage.

Now he has it listed at $9K - &amp; there are lots of Rubicons in the lower 100K mile range in the $12,000 asking price, even with just soft tops

In the end a jeep with 33 IN tires probably not the best vehicle to go back and fort to Rapid City, SD from Denver a few times a year , 5+ hours.. 

JR is going to pony up some money so I think we may just find a stripped down Tacoma, from the value section of car max (cars with 100K+ miles) but at least Ill feel a bit better than dealing with the craigslist folks..


----------



## MA_PE

I'm surprised at the money people are getting for 14 year old vehicles with 100k+ miles on them.  My son is looking at 2013 F-150 quad cab 4x4 with 90k miles for $20k to replace his 2005 Ram 1500 supercab 4x4 with 150k+   His searches tell him the F150 is a good deal.


----------



## Road Guy

me too!

I guess with new vehicles in the $40K range they are a bargain.

My Tahoe has over 200,000 miles on it and aside from the "stuff" breaking like the cables that retract the seat, and the push buttons which control things like the 4WD, sunroof, etc needing to be replaced, I still drive it up to the mountains in the heavy snow and don't give it much of a second thought about it breaking down on us.  I plan to let that be each kids "first car" and keep it until something for real $$ breaks, like an engine - only bad thing about it is that my younger kid went to get his French horn out of the back of the Tahoe from school and found his older brother making out with his girlfriend in the back of the Tahoe  (while at "lunch") - so now I make sure to keep the 3rd row seats in the vehicle at all times!


----------



## envirotex

Diesels are even more outrageous.


----------



## Dleg

@Road Guy I found this one for him in Boulder:


----------



## MA_PE

@Flyer_PE the tractor is coming along nicely.  nice job.  You'll be tooling around on it in no time.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^My wife was singing the theme to Green Acres the first time I drove it into the driveway.


----------



## csb

Dleg said:


> @Road Guy I found this one for him in Boulder:


Not sure if that ups the resale value of a Subaru or not....


----------



## FLBuff PE

That doesn't look real to me. There isn't a COEXIST emblem on it.


----------



## MA_PE

FLBuff PE said:


> That doesn't look real to me. There isn't a COEXIST emblem on it.


there HAS to be.  We can't see the other side.


----------



## Road Guy

drinking too much water from the Rocky Flats area.....


----------



## wilheldp_PE

FLBuff PE said:


> That doesn't look real to me. There isn't a COEXIST emblem on it.


They must have taken it off, then.  Isn't a COEXIST sticker included with all Subarus?


----------



## csb

wilheldp_PE said:


> They must have taken it off, then.  Isn't a COEXIST sticker included with all Subarus?


You have to take it out of the complimentary Whole Foods reusable shopping bag and install it yourself.


----------



## Road Guy

this doesn't look like the kind of person who actually "coexists"


----------



## Supe

The official race car of EB ran again yesterday for the first time in five years!  It was touch and go for a bit - I had totally pinned the coil packs wrong, had a bad battery that I thought fried the ECU, thought I had no oil pressure due to a disconnected sensor, etc.  But by the end of the afternoon, she was running and revving freely.  Next big step will be to see if it actually moves when put in gear...


----------



## Supe

That reminds me... going to need a new EB.com sticker, RG!  Let me know where to send the cash...


----------



## Road Guy

I need to get some more made! been meaning to do that for a while..


----------



## Supe

Well get on it!  The season's already started!


----------



## jeb6294

I want to know what psychopath design the front end of the Ford Superduty's.  They've got stacked lights up front...bottom is the headlight and the top is the driving light/turn signal.  One of my driving lights went out so I finally decided to see about fixing it this weekend (one bulb does drive and signal but the turn signal still worked so I hadn't been in a huge hurry).  It's all one big assembly and to change any bulb, you HAVE TO REMOVE THE FRONT GRILL?!?! 

I had looked into it previously so I thought far enough ahead to get LED bulbs for everything up front so I could do it all at once.  Fortunately it isn't too difficult...take out 4 screws up top, lean the grill forward a little bit and then use a long screwdriver to release 5 tabs along the bottom...but still, they couldn't have come up with anything better?


----------



## Supe

On my dearly departed Saturn Astra, a headlight bulb replacement mean you were removing the wheel arches, entire front fascia, and headlight assembly.


----------



## Dleg




----------



## Supe

Well, I'm totally gutted 

Went to put the racecar into gear last night, and it immediately stalled.  For some reason, the stupid expensive clutch and hydraulic throwout bearing combination are not cooperating, and the clutch won't fully disengage.  Both were installed per the specified tolerances, and I bled the hell out of the system with no sign of air.  The car is back up on stands with the transmission halfway removed and no known fix right now.  Season is over before it began.


----------



## csb

Supe said:


> Well, I'm totally gutted
> 
> Went to put the racecar into gear last night, and it immediately stalled.  For some reason, the stupid expensive clutch and hydraulic throwout bearing combination are not cooperating, and the clutch won't fully disengage.  Both were installed per the specified tolerances, and I bled the hell out of the system with no sign of air.  The car is back up on stands with the transmission halfway removed and no known fix right now.  Season is over before it began.


Have you considered just lighting the money on fire directly? Or are you super into this first hobby?


----------



## Flyer_PE

It could be worse.  The damn thing could have wings.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> Have you considered just lighting the money on fire directly? Or are you super into this first hobby?


I have given it a thought, but am really into the thought of Visa/Chase Bank naming a card after me.



Flyer_PE said:


> It could be worse.  The damn thing could have wings.


It has one, it just inverted and doesn't fly.


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> It has one, it just inverted and doesn't fly.


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> It could be worse.  The damn thing could have wings.


Wasn't there an old saying about something to do with boobs or wheels and problems?


----------



## envirotex

Supe said:


> Well, I'm totally gutted
> 
> Went to put the racecar into gear last night, and it immediately stalled.  For some reason, the stupid expensive clutch and hydraulic throwout bearing combination are not cooperating, and the clutch won't fully disengage.  Both were installed per the specified tolerances, and I bled the hell out of the system with no sign of air.  The car is back up on stands with the transmission halfway removed and no known fix right now.  Season is over before it began.


Same here. Mr. Tex bought a 1982 MB 300CD Turbodiesel last weekend.  I think it threw a rod this week.  It was going to be a commuter car, now I'm thinking we might just cut our losses. Really bummed.


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> Flyer_PE said:
> 
> 
> 
> It could be worse.  The damn thing could have wings.
> 
> 
> 
> Wasn't there an old saying about something to do with boobs or wheels and problems?
Click to expand...

Yep.  It's cheaper to rent than to own.


----------



## jeb6294

Anyone played with Forscan before?  After swapping all the lights in the front of the truck over to LED's I've got hyper flashing because it thinks there's a bulb burnt out (not terribly surprised).  First option is to wire in some resistors, but not my first choice.  Research turned up Forscan.  Looks like it's kind of like the software that dealers can use to make changes to different parameters in the computer, i.e. turning off the seat belt alarm, turning the fog lights on with high beams, and yes, turning off the turn signal warning.  Didn't know if anyone had messed with it before.


----------



## csb

No, my husband is circumcised.


----------



## Road Guy

Wide load ?


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> No, my husband is circumcised.


Took you longer than expected when I first read it.


----------



## csb

Supe said:


> Took you longer than expected when I first read it.


It's budget season.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

csb said:


> No, my husband is circumcised.


God dammit...I was about to make that joke, but should have known you'd beat me to it.  Screw it...Ima say it anyway.

I've played with my foreskin quite a bit.


----------



## Master slacker

jeb6294 said:


> Anyone played with Forscan before?  After swapping all the lights in the front of the truck over to LED's I've got hyper flashing because it thinks there's a bulb burnt out (not terribly surprised).  First option is to wire in some resistors, but not my first choice.  Research turned up Forscan.  Looks like it's kind of like the software that dealers can use to make changes to different parameters in the computer, i.e. turning off the seat belt alarm, turning the fog lights on with high beams, and yes, turning off the turn signal warning.  Didn't know if anyone had messed with it before.


Just replace your flasher module.  Pull yours out and put in one specifically for LED lights.  Relatively cheap and literally plug-n-play.


----------



## MA_PE

Master slacker said:


> Just replace your flasher module.  Pull yours out and put in one specifically for LED lights.  Relatively cheap and literally plug-n-play.


Is that true for all cars?  I was going to convert my 2002 Pontiac turn signal/brake lights/flashers to LEDs but wasn't sure if I could just swap out the bulbs.


----------



## Ble_PE

Master slacker said:


> Pull yours out and put in one specifically for LED lights.


Wait, are we still talking about foreskin?


----------



## csb

Ble_PE said:


> Wait, are we still talking about foreskin?


Plug-n-play


----------



## Master slacker

Would you rather blow a fuse?


----------



## jeb6294

Master slacker said:


> Just replace your flasher module.  Pull yours out and put in one specifically for LED lights.  Relatively cheap and literally plug-n-play.


Can't...that only works up to 2010's.  In the 2011's Ford SD's switched from a flasher relay to a BCM computer so your choices are to wire in some relays, go to the dealer and have them change it in the BCM with their software, or use Forscan to change it in the computer yourself.  It sounds as easy as going to the right module in the code and changing a number to tell the computer to stop checking the voltage of the front turn signal bulbs, but I didn't know if anyone had tried anything like that before.


----------



## Supe

MA_PE said:


> Is that true for all cars?  I was going to convert my 2002 Pontiac turn signal/brake lights/flashers to LEDs but wasn't sure if I could just swap out the bulbs.


One ones that use a flasher relay, that is typically the case.


----------



## Supe

So after R&amp;R of the transmission revealed no obvious issues, I think I finally got it figured out.  Turns out the hydraulic throwout bearing was overextending the pressure plate fingers.  Of course, it took an entire afternoon of trying to get the TOB bled to make this determination (tip - if you EVER have to bleed an hydraulic throwout bearing, use a MityVac or similar to put 20" of vacuum on the bleed line.  Draw the line full of fluid first, then push pedal down, watch air bubbles disappear into reservoir, then release the pedal.  Repeat.  It's the ONLY way to stop the air from being drawn back into the bearing/line.) 

With Junior fully pressing the pedal, I couldn't budge the back tires.  As she slowly released the pedal, I could start to spin them.  Short term fix - I fabricated an adjustable pedal stop for the clutch pedal to limit bearing throw.  Long term fix - buy a RAM hydraulic adjuster and install in-line.  It basically adds extra volume to the feed line via a screw adjuster, so I can limit overtravel and move the bite point down for the pedal.  I have yet to test it out on the ground with the engine started, but if I can spin the damn wheels by hand on jackstands, then it has to be releasing.

I was able to get some small work done - rust converter sprayed where windshield frame had surface rust, race harness/belts installed, plug wire holders bolted in, engine limit turnbuckle installed.  Pretty confident I can make the close-ish race three weeks from now.  I could probably make the hillclimb in two, but that is not exactly the best place for a shakedown.

Bad news - my racing partner/coworker royally f*cked his car up at CMS this weekend doing fun runs.  Lost concentration and tried a line he shouldn't have.  Bounced the car sideways off a concrete barrier.  Good bit of body damage, brand new steering rack broken, wheel shattered, and front suspension f*cked. I suspect he'll be driving my Porsche in the interim.


----------



## Supe

So the "new" transmission in the racecar is a T101a out of a Chip Ganassi cup car.  It's called a dogbox - it does not have synchros, only straight cut gears with dogs/sliders, e.g. "chunks" on rings that are about an inch apart with a slight back cut on them, intended to shift by slamming together. 

On a synchro-based transmission, you would upshift by pressing the clutch in and shifting, and downshift by either just pressing the clutch and shifting (which can make the rear end squirrely and is hard on the engine), or clutch in under braking, and then blip the throttle with your heel to get the engine RPM's up before releasing the clutch, allowing a smooth shift.

So, I was curious as to the appropriate method for up/downshifting with a dog box, and couldn't get a clear answer.  I found the transmission builder's number and gave him a call.  His response for upshifting - burp the throttle and slam it hard into the next gear.  His response for downshifting - burp the throttle and slam it hard into the next gear.

It's going to be hard convincing myself to shift with hate and discontent, without ever using the clutch other than to exit the pits.


----------



## Road Guy

Nice!


----------



## knight1fox3

What is Mrs. @Supe doing in CO?!


----------



## Supe

knight1fox3 said:


> What is Mrs. @Supe doing in CO?!


Obviously smoking a shit-ton of weed if something compelled her to drive that monstrosity.


----------



## squaretaper LIT AF PE

Road Guy said:


> Nice!


God bless America.


----------



## jeb6294

I always thought it was funny how people were so willing to plunk down so much $$$ for a Chevy Tahoe with a body kit on it just because they slapped the "Hummer" nameplate on it.


----------



## Supe

Well, I think I nearly barfed getting into the car I was so nervous about testing it, but it worked!  It was still grinding going into gear, but another 1/2" on the pedal stop did the trick, and the pressure plate fingers are no longer overextending.  Got some more of the wiring cleaned up, and got my switch labels on.  Tonight I am going to try to pull the accusump assembly (oil accumulator tank) and reseat the valve, as its leaking some oil from the coupler threads.


----------



## knight1fox3

Supe said:


> Got some more of the wiring cleaned up, and got my switch labels on.


Are you electrically qualified to be doing that kind of work? :dunno:


----------



## Supe

I'm practically a zip tie and wire loom consultant.

It actually looks like shit now, but I'm beyond the point of caring.  It looked amazing before, but I had accidentally pinned some of the connectors wrong, because the diagram was showing a front view, not a rear view.  So the wire lengths ended up being switched around, rather than tailored for each connector like they were before.  The Holley wiring harness is actually a really strange length for a lot of the connections.  I will probably by the weatherpak and molex pins and crimp tools that I need this winter and build a harness from scratch to really clean up all the routing.


----------



## Supe

UGH.  Last two "big" things to get car race ready - alignment, and windshield.  #1 no problem, #2, turning into a problem.  Binswanger is "having a hard time locating a supplier for it."  I need it done FRIDAY.  They use most of the same suppliers as Safelite.  If they can't do it, then I'm stuck running lexan, which means another lengthy, time-consuming project to cram in that I really don't have time for, especially since you're required to have center supports if you use it, which is a mini-fab process in and of itself. 

Of course, they're calling for two weeks straight of rain starting tonight, so I may be stuck bringing the slow car (Porsche) to next weekends event instead :'(


----------



## Road Guy

don't know what any of that means but it sounds like the suck!

If you remember when I was bitching about the clutch on my jeep popping out of a gear a few months ago - you were right on the synchronizers. a few weeks ago it developed an engine tick - I took it to the stealer-ship and the lifters needed replacement. covered under the powertrain, but took a few days, got it back, huge! leak shows up in driveway the day after I get it back, drive it back to the stealer-ship and the "clutch box"? was leaking they also noticed the synchronizers spelling? were bad &amp; long story short, also getting a new transmission   not sure to be happy or sad, happy its covered under the powertrain but not wild about all these issues - god damn jeep doing away with the inline 6 I am afraid - its like they took the V6 from the grand Cherokee that always had problems... the stealership offered me $25K on trade in, but at this point I don't know if I want to take the gamble on getting a newer jeep that just may have the same issues in 2 years. I had been thinking about ditching it and getting a Tacoma (with apologies to the greatest generation) but the stealership doesn't sell Toyota's - don't know if I just got a lemon but giving serious though to parting ways with it - which sucks cause I really like this vehicle - guess I should be glad its all getting replaced for free. this is my 4th jeep and all the others when to 1/4 million miles before any real issues &amp; then it was standard stuff like clutch or valve head cover, shit that just normally wears out after 15 years... This one is a 2015 with 65K miles


----------



## Supe

I don't think you got a lemon, just a modern-day Chrysler product...


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> god damn jeep doing away with the inline 6 I am afraid - its like they took the V6 from the grand Cherokee that always had problems


Worse than that...it's from their minivans.  Getting rid of the I-6 was idiotic.  The straight 6 was a better engine for the Jeeps and they were darn near bulletproof.  Sad to say, but now they are more concerned with being more refined to make the soccer moms happy when they drive their "offroader" to the mall, i.e. Jeeps aren't real Jeeps anymore.


----------



## Road Guy

its really frustrating, glad I didn't spend any money on a lift yet, sucks cause I really like the vehicle. I've been a regular on jeepforum and wrangler forum and haven't heard many similar stories - CarMax offered me $21K if I got the "tick" fixed - thinking about just junking her to them and finding an old TJ with a hard top that still has the I6 and just setting aside some money for a new engine / trany one day -  but shit a 15 year old TJ with 150K miles still sells for damn near close to $15G's....


----------



## mudpuppy

Fiat quality.  The straight 6 was an AMC design, which thankfully Chrysler kept around for a few years and what's in my XJ.  But these days I don't think I could bring myself to buy a Fiat/Jeep.


----------



## mudpuppy

Glad your engine and tranny are covered under warranty though.  The wranglers hold their value pretty well so you'll probably be fine if you don't have any more issues.  If you're not seeing a lot of problems on the Jeep forums you'll probably be ok, knock on wood.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Those I-6 engines were a casualty of their own success. Because they were lasting so long, people weren't buying new ones. Combine that with the minimal changes from model year to model year, any new vehicles sold just continued to flood their own market.


----------



## Supe

It never ends!  Start the car, won't rev, just stumbles at throttle tip-in.  Look at dash - only has about 20 lbs of fuel at the rail, should be 43.  Sonofoa...

New fuel pump and fittings on order.  If its not the pump, I have a spare regulator to try, but I don't think its the regulator.  When the diaphragms leak, there is usually gas in the vacuum line, and it was bone dry.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> It never ends!  Start the car, won't rev, just stumbles at throttle tip-in.  Look at dash - only has about 20 lbs of fuel at the rail, should be 43.  Sonofoa...
> 
> New fuel pump and fittings on order.  If its not the pump, I have a spare regulator to try, but I don't think its the regulator.  When the diaphragms leak, there is usually gas in the vacuum line, and it was bone dry.


It appears that race cars and airplanes have a lot in common.


----------



## Supe

I suspect my costs of getting this f*cking car together is far closer to your airplane costs than it ever should have been...


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> It appears that race cars and airplanes have a lot in common.


Except for total cost of ownership. But as Supe mentioned, the maintenance budget is quickly approaching a similar level. LOL


----------



## MA_PE

knight1fox3 said:


> Except for total cost of ownership.


that statement would completely depend on the type of plane and race car that you're using for comparison.


----------



## Supe

At current pace, I think it'd be cheaper to operate and maintain the Concordia.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Supe said:


> At current pace, I think it'd be cheaper to operate and maintain the Concordia.


Wait a sec...are you talking about Concorde (i.e., supersonic passenger jet) or Concordia (i.e., cruise ship that sank in Italy)?


----------



## Ble_PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> Wait a sec...are you talking about Concorde (i.e., supersonic passenger jet) or Concordia (i.e., cruise ship that sank in Italy)?


Yes.


----------



## Supe

Ble_PE said:


> Yes.


This.


----------



## Supe

On the plus side, a fuel pump swap fixed the problem, back up and running.  Got the brake ducts in and plumbed yesterday.  All that is left is the windshield, an alignment, and patching some holes in the firewall with foil tape.  The glass people flaked on Friday, supposed to come this afternoon.

Biggest problem now is figuring out how to get the car on the trailer.  I used to drive on, engage the ebrake, and climb out the window.  Now I have no ebrake, and I cannot climb out the window because of the fiberglass door.  Also, the car sits lower and will hit the ramps earlier.  I started installing a winch onto the trailer yesterday.  I think I can do it if I remove the nose and use a soft pull strap and winch it on there.  Fingers crossed, or I'll be buying a new trailer that sits on airbags.


----------



## Supe

Windshield is in, alignment scheduled for Friday at 1:00, then its off to the track Friday evening to drop everything off.  Still have a checklist of 20 small items left to be done to the car, a dozen things to buy for either the race or the trailer, and 57 things to pack as supplies for the race!

Fortunately, the event organizers gave me permission to use the novice pace laps to break in my brake pads.  You can't just drive on racing brake pads out of the box, or they'll never grip right and will wear prematurely.  They need about 5 stops from medium speed, a cooling off period, and then about half a dozen stops from 60 MPH or so to get them really hot and make them fade, at which point, you limp back to the pits without using them and let them cool down for an hour.  The heat cycle deposits a layer of friction material on the rotors and lets them do their job after that.  This saves me from having to waste a full 20 minute timed session breaking everything in, with 39 other drivers up my ass trying to go balls to the wall - not exactly a safe condition on track.

I still have to go pick up the trailer tomorrow night and swap cars.  I need to finish bolting the winch in place, bolt in a couple new D rings (I can't cross the front straps anymore), and bolt in some idler rings so the straps will fit under the nose of the car. 

I'm not looking forward to towing.  My trailer is only 16' and is open deck, so the length of the car's nose makes me load it to where the CoG is further back than I'd like.  The car also has a huge carbon fiber wing on the back which generates about 300# of downforce.  It makes for a very light tongue weight that likes to walk around on the highway.  It does make for some cool rooster tails if you're towing in the rain, though.


----------



## Supe

Ugh, bad race weekend.

1) Rear brakes were locking up badly.  Ended up beached in the sand on one occasion because of it.  Believe the company that supplied the brakes spec'd a master cylinder size that was too large for the rear.

2) Roached the motor.  Motor wouldn't pull over 6K RPM on Saturday.  Data logs showed really really rich, and the software was trying to lean it way out.  In hindsight, I think I may have had a damaged valve that was letting unburned fuel past the O2 sensor giving false readings.  Sunday I noticed low oil pressure during a run, and a loud clacking noise from the right valve cover.  Upon examination, I had two rockers laying loose, a missing pushrod, a broken but visible pushrod, and a stud girdle poly lock sitting loose under the valve cover, which means it had to take a HARD hit from the valve/piston to punt that thing out of the clamp.

Now I get to decide - build a new motor entirely, or try to rebuild this one.

Positive for the weekend - cooling system worked fine, transmission shifted fine, and the thing was CRAZY fast in a straight line (I had zero grip in the turns due to ancient tires).  Data loggers showed 6 MPH faster than the Porsche had ever been (which was a NASCAR oval), and a 30 MPH advantage over some quick cars, and that was on 7 cylinders and braking waaaay early.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^So it's a speedy money pit.  Seems more like an aircraft to me all the time.

Congrats on getting it out on the track.  Sounds like it's going to be fast as hell once you get the bugs worked out.


----------



## Supe

Yep.  It's definitely just an aircraft with an inverted wing on the back.  Only less reliable.


----------



## Supe

Talked to two engine builders last night.  First one is backed up until August.  The second one is the local-ish guy who builds basically every championship winning Miata motor in the country.  He was INCREDIBLY knowledgeable and detailed about the V8 builds, and we got into some pretty technical details about clearances, machine work, etc.  And he thinks he can easily meet or beat my price point.  Suspect I will have a motor being build by Race Engineering very shortly...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

"championship winning Miata" sounds like such a huge contradiction...


----------



## Road Guy

so does that wing actually do anything?


----------



## Road Guy

so going on week 3 with no jeep, finally did get a loaner vehicle (brand new Cherokee POS) - will defin put as many miles on that thing as possible.. they told me their best guess at the parts needed is 2 more weeks. guess they only manufacture around 10% manual transmissions? and that is making parts hard to come by , seems really dumb, torn between glad I am saving some miles on the vehicle and wanting to be joining the rest of the jeep world in top down, doors off condition 

I saw a funny video on one of yours FB pages with a Camaro driving through the ocean, wish I was close enough to one to do that just before I turn the loaner vehicle back in


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> I saw a funny video on one of yours FB pages with a Camaro driving through the ocean, wish I was close enough to one to do that just before I turn the loaner vehicle back in


My brother sent me that video and asked if I plan on doing the same with mine.  All I know is that saltwater is murder on vehicle components...


----------



## Supe

Dexman PE PMP said:


> "championship winning Miata" sounds like such a huge contradiction...


It is easily the most raced car in the US, with several series dedicated to the various iterations.  They handle like nothing else.  It's the constant running joke - "let the Miata by when they catch you in the turns."



Road Guy said:


> so does that wing actually do anything?


500-700 lbs of downforce approx. at 160 MPH depending on angle of attack.  100-300 # at the more typical cornering speeds (80-120).  Because I gave up some rear weight bias reworking the car, I am actually going to cantilever the wing further back.  This will also let me move the side support laterals behind the hatch to cut drag and let the wing work more efficiently.  I decided to move up a class, so I'm no longer stuck working within the original footprint of the car.

Of course, if that still isn't enough, it's $2500 for the big ass dual element wing that APR makes... ouch.


----------



## Road Guy

so the parts 'estimate' arrival date for the jeep is AUGUST 14th!!!!!!!

I've been lighting up Chryslers customer _no care_ number every day for a few days, trying to get them to just buy the god damn thing back from me..

The part needed is basically the whole transmission? I mean cant they fucking just take one out of the assembly plant?

Also I am thinking about just reporting it stolen? 

What really pissed me off is before this all happened I went to CarMax, they offered me $21K for it, but told me about the engine tick (original reason I took it to the stealership) when all this other shit came up - wish I had just have sold it to CarMax and been done with it...

Any good  complaint strategies I can use?  We have a year of legal counsel we signed up for my wifes work with, I have wondered about reaching out to them to see if they can generate a nasty letter?


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> so the parts 'estimate' arrival date for the jeep is AUGUST 14th!!!!!!!
> 
> I've been lighting up Chryslers customer _no care_ number every day for a few days, trying to get them to just buy the god damn thing back from me..
> 
> The part needed is basically the whole transmission? I mean cant they fucking just take one out of the assembly plant?
> 
> Also I am thinking about just reporting it stolen?
> 
> What really pissed me off is before this all happened I went to CarMax, they offered me $21K for it, but told me about the engine tick (original reason I took it to the stealership) when all this other shit came up - wish I had just have sold it to CarMax and been done with it...
> 
> Any good  complaint strategies I can use?  We have a year of legal counsel we signed up for my wifes work with, I have wondered about reaching out to them to see if they can generate a nasty letter?


I say keep calling the customer care number and demand to go higher up the ladder.  Say you need to talk to the supervisor, then HIS supervisor, and so on until you get someone that is ia position of authority that can make a decision.  All the underlings do is log the complaint but they have no real authority to offer any guaranteed deal.

And focus on getting the attention of the people responsible for the local dealership:  are manager/regional manager/state level, etc.  Lastly, you could call the local news station and see if they want to air your story about the local dealership.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah the escalation is the only option for me - contacting news is a good idea -

I don't honestly fault the dealer folks, I believe if they had the part they would install it.  I haven't reached out to them about making a trade, but I know if I did I'll get screwed in the process by a few thousand - especially since my vehicle is paid off. about to help buy junior a new ride for college - just terrible timing...

defin going to return the loaner car with a dead rabbit somewhere - they said I cant smoke in it but didn't say I can leave a rotting animal corpse in the trunk!


----------



## Road Guy

think something like this is a bad idea?

(not lemon party I promise)

http://colorado.lemonlawgrouppartners.com/?utm_source=bing&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=Colorado&amp;utm_content=textad&amp;utm_term=lemon law


----------



## Road Guy

using the legal plan my wife added to her works insurance this year I talked to a consumer attorney this afternoon (those plans are surprisingly good if you need them by the way)

As shitty as it sounds, it seems like I just have to bend over and take it - lemon laws only apply to new vehicles in the first year and to the original owner, not me so nothing much they can do. The attorney basically told me be happy I got a free rental car and to try and look at the positive of not putting miles on my vehicle for a couple of months and then plan to try and sell it when its fixed. The lawyer advised me not to be too "unprofessional" with them because there is nothing in the powertrain warranty that says they have to provide me a loaner vehicle and he said normally when they invoke the lemon law claim on other clients usually the auto manufacturer will usually withdraw anything 'extra' once notice is filed..

Also did some digging around on Jeepforum (I haven't been too active there) sounds like this is happening to a bunch of people, something about the Pentastar transmission being suited well for the automatics and not the manuals - in the "old" days it was the opposite and Chrysler only makes a small percent of manual transmissions anymore - but tons of manual new jeep owners having this issue and the automatics are basically fine - really sucks cause that was something I actually thought I wanted..

Someone remind me why did we bail out the auto industry again?


----------



## mudpuppy

The situation sucks, but like your lawyer pointed out at least you have a loaner and aren't stuck having to borrow or rent a car in the meantime.  Chrysler has never been known for good transmissions (I know a K car I had as a kid had to have the transmission replaced.)

Ford didn't take a dime of government money.  Not the sole reason we dropped a bunch of money on a new Escape a couple weeks ago, but it is there in the back of my mind.


----------



## knight1fox3

mudpuppy said:


> Chrysler has never been known for good transmissions (I know a K car I had as a kid had to have the transmission replaced.)


That's for sure! When I worked on a few of their rear axle assembly machines in Detroit, I was shocked at what they considered a "passing" part was. We joked and called some of them "banana axles". LOL


----------



## Road Guy

what's still just fucked up is the normally the manuals are the ones that last!

I've got a new group of friends having the same issue around the country (on jeeper sites) one guy has had his out of commission since JANUARY! - so far it seems they are all giving us the same story - August - but JFC!  guess no mosquito pass trail run or Ouray trial rides for me this summer 

Another annoying thing, the Cherokee is an 2017 &amp; it has some Obama type rule I guess where the engine automatically shuts off when you stop the car - say at a red light, which is nice in the summer when its 92 degrees and sunny out...


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> what's still just fucked up is the normally the manuals are the ones that last!
> 
> I've got a new group of friends having the same issue around the country (on jeeper sites) one guy has had his out of commission since JANUARY! - so far it seems they are all giving us the same story - August - but JFC!  guess no mosquito pass trail run or Ouray trial rides for me this summer
> 
> Another annoying thing, the Cherokee is an 2017 &amp; it has some Obama type rule I guess where the engine automatically shuts off when you stop the car - say at a red light, which is nice in the summer when its 92 degrees and sunny out...


that auto-stop "feature" is a royal PITA.  I've had it in a couple of rentals.  I believe that now GM lets you override it but there's a least one year where you cannot.

You might check online and see if there's a way to override it on your loaner.


----------



## Flyer_PE

A buddy of mine has a Lincoln with Auto-Stop.  It has an over-ride but you have to activate it every time you start the car.  The car is two years old and you can tell the over-ride button gets hit every time he drives the car.

My biggest worry is rolling into a busy intersection and having the car fail to start.


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> My biggest worry is rolling into a busy intersection and having the car fail to start.


Also really seems like unnecessary wear &amp; tear on an engine. I don't think a combustion engine was intended for that type of operation. :dunno:


----------



## Road Guy

you defin need to make sure you step on the gas for some left turns -


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> you defin need to make sure you step on the gas for some left turns -


what are you driving NASCAR?


----------



## Road Guy

The Cherokee has No power so add that to the engine cut off hard to make a turn from a stop taking advantage of a use able gap


----------



## Road Guy

anyone have any experience with a Mazda CX-7? its got 90K miles but owner only wants $3000 for it? has a little hail damage on the hood, but basically a car for a kid to keep at college.


----------



## MA_PE

my only experience with Mazda was a 99 Millenia.  Nice car but the transmission started f%&amp;*king up at ~120k.  Not sure about the CX-7 but the Millenia used a timing belt instead of a chain and regular maintenance was to replace it at ~100k (before it broke).  Basically the top of the motor had to be dismantled to access it. $1000-1200 job.

Looked up a CX-7.  they use a timing chain but.....https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-d935_ds640676


----------



## Road Guy

Yikes!


----------



## Supe

Holy moly - there's knowing nothing about cars, and then there's the guy that put together the engine that's coming out of mine...

1. He thought it was a solid roller motor.  Never had a reason to doubt him, since the lash settings were all consistent with what I'd expect to see for a solid roller engine.  Well, it wasn't!  So there's been an .018" air gap where parts were being hammered away, when it's supposed to have 0 lash plus preload, since it's a hydraulic roller...

2. He used the cheapest parts possible.  The rockers are a notoriously bad offshore brand.  About 12 of the 16 were OK, the other 4 were so out of round on the trunnion, you couldn't even rotate them a full 360 degrees inside the bore.

3. Due to some combination of the above, a lifter disassembled itself.  The cheap lifters use a little spring clip to hold themselves together, so even if a pushrod breaks, they stay in one piece.  Not so here, and several of the lifter internals are missing.  Based on the fact that the distributor gear is chewed up, I can guess which hole they made their way down en route to the oil pan...

4. He never checked piston to valve clearance.  Ever.  I only pulled one head so far, but #2, 4, 6, and 8 intake valves have clearly been pounding away at the piston, so much so, that there are shards/slivers of aluminum sticking up in each piston.  I would not be surprised if the valves are tweaked accordingly.  #8 obviously had the exhaust valve also hit the piston.  But the dumbest part?  The valve reliefs are all chewed up in the same spot, meaning he bought pistons that had the reliefs sized for a 2.02" intake valve, but then put heads on it that had a 2.08" intake valve...

5. He never had the lifter bores honed, or never checked the lifter clearances.  Three were so tight in the bore, it took vice grips to wiggle them out.  Lifter body and bore were both badly worn for a motor that probably has a run time measured in single-digit hours...

I seriously hope this guy doesn't work in the Army's maintenance group, or there are going to be some tanks/Hummers that are disabled in the near future...


----------



## Flyer_PE

^What a mess.


----------



## envirotex

The 300 CD saga continues...


----------



## Supe

Umm, I don't think a crankshaft is supposed to be serviceable in pieces.


----------



## Master slacker

put the crank(s) on the lathe, ramp that bitch up, and friction weld together.  Trust me on this.  I'm an engineer.


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> put the crank(s) on the lathe, ramp that bitch up, and friction weld together.  Trust me on this.  I'm an engineer.


Management material all the way.


----------



## envirotex

Master slacker said:


> put the crank(s) on the lathe, ramp that bitch up, and friction weld together.  Trust me on this.  I'm an engineer.


Damn European engineers got me into this mess in the first place. 

Can you friction weld high carbon steel?

On the bright side, Mr. Tex says that it makes the rear main seal much easier to replace.


----------



## Supe

envirotex said:


> Can you friction weld high carbon steel?


You can, you just may lose a _smidge_ of ductility.


----------



## Idealanse

Road Guy said:


> anyone have any experience with a Maz﻿da CX-7? its got 90K miles but owner only wants $3000 for it? has a little hail damage on the hood, but basically a car for a kid to keep at college.


I'd better take it to service for inspect. I had mazda 6 2 turbo, which was nice looking and worked well. But then suspension failed, replacement of the turbo charger and several more surprises. Glad I don't have it anymore.


----------



## Road Guy

I still plan to sell my new POS jeep if I ever get it back from Chrysler... but picked this 01 TJ up for my daughter today... in line 6? Don't mind if I do... actually I may just keep this for myself and get her something else once the POS JK is back...

Not sure what happened to the hood... may have to pick up some plasti-dip...


----------



## envirotex

That's pretty nice for a kid car...Shouldn't cost too much to get the hood painted.


----------



## Road Guy

Its the same age as my daughter - I think that's a good rule for kids cars.. &amp; the price was right on this one, $3500 - just hoping I can get it to pass emissions without too much of a beating..

previous owner cut the electric lines to where the O2 sensor "used to" plug in - I spent 2 hours trying to make that work and am just saying F it and taking it to my mechanic -


----------



## jeb6294

From the looks of the ends of the bumper and the fender flares, it just looks like it has been sitting out in the sun a lot.  I wouldn't even bother worrying about it, because I'm sure it's going to see it's share of "oops".  The chrome grill cover is :f_115m_e45d7af:  though.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah that was my thought as well on the grill - defin like 1990.. may seriously plasti dip spray it black 

I put some goof off on the hood with som elbow grease and some of the Home Depot paint started to come off - 

Other than it sounding like an outboard motor with no o2 sensor - drove it to the shop last night and it rides pretty good - defin needs new shocks but felt good to be back in a less plastic jeep 

Also check out the radio - totally upset I threw away my 3 shoe boxes of cassette tapes //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png


----------



## jeb6294

That's pretty impressive, a Jeep that old having a docking station for an iPod.


----------



## jeb6294




----------



## Supe

That reminds me of a phone call from my mother about 20 years ago.  She called me from work, two of her coworkers beside her, for some tech support.  Computer wouldn't read a CD.  In fact, it wouldn't even TAKE the CD.  They were trying to cram a CD in the floppy drive.


----------



## Road Guy

5-1/4 or 3 1/2?


----------



## Supe

3 1/2.


----------



## Road Guy

so starting to learn some new stuff on the old jeep and maybe why I was able to get it for $3 grand.. my mechanic is trying to hard wire the o2 sensors, but checked the vin # and the jeep was originally a 2.5L 4 CYL &amp; at some point someone changed it to the 4.0L 6 CYL. Said whoever did that did a good job with it, but thinks they left the computer in from the 4 banger and that's messing with the emissions "info"  supposedly trany is the same for both engines... I think the computer is  a $200 fix. just hope I can get the damn thing to pass emissions.......


----------



## Supe

Yikes.  Here in NC, we wouldn't even be able to register that.  Any change in # of cylinders isn't allowed, even if it was a factory option (and this is another reason why I want to move to SC.)


----------



## Road Guy

If I lived 10 miles to the north I wouldn't even have to deal with emissions here     I told myself if I get more than a grand into this it will go back to craigslist!


----------



## Supe

Do you guys have the computer based emissions test?  That usually ends up pulling the VIN from the computer, which means you'd have to have the computer reprogrammed to match.


----------



## Road Guy

I think so, mechanic didn't think it would be a major issue -just may take an iteration or two - the title lists the vehicle as a 6 CYL so hoping it was previously titled correctly

They think it was tested  for emissions with the wires not connected from the O2 sensor, which obviously wouldn't pass..

When I was looking there wasn't a single 2001 Wrangler in Colorado for sale for less than $10K so I am hoping I wont take too much of a beating if I can get "the papers"


----------



## mudpuppy

My car wouldn't start this morning.  Would turn over, but was weak and wouldn't catch.  Pretty sure the battery has had it.  Considering it's original to the car, and I got the car 12 years ago this week, I think that's a pretty good showing.


----------



## Road Guy

damn what brand was that? That impressive!


----------



## Master slacker

Week and a half ago, while taking the week off, the fam was en route to the new pizza joint in town.  Long story short, a car merging onto the street merged square into our passenger door with me in the passenger seat.  Ok, well, sh*t.  Pull into the Walgreen's parking lot so we can exchange info.  This f*cking woman BOLTS!  I get the first 3 digits of the plate while looking over my shoulder and we high-tail it into pursuit mode.  Bitch is gone.  Dammit.  Pull into grocery store parking lot, continue call with police, and start to walk over to burger joint next door when my call ended.  Woman (witness of accident) pulls up next to us and gives us her name, number, and the license plate number of hit-n-run bitch.  Call insurance and from that number, they know who hit us, where she lives, and all of her insurance info.  Police arrive, we give our statements, he states we're not at fault, and adds that HNRB now has a criminal charge facing her for running.  F her.

Now, being in the accident didn't ruffle my feathers too much.  Yeah, it sucks, but we're all fine and the damage isn't detrimental.  What pisses me off is that bitch fled the scene of a basic accident without one freakin' care in the world of who we are.  We could have been a family living pay check to pay check, no way to pay for repairing car, no other means for transportation, been injured in the accident, etc... and she had not one ounce of thought for the well being of those she hit or about taking responsibility for property damage she caused.  Her insurance has already contacted us and I can only imagine the law has caught up with her, as well.  I can only hope it has.  F her.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah cant imagine people actually get away with fleeing the scene, just seems like it only makes things worse for them - glad you are all okay and hope you nail them on the insurance claim! - I would maybe start saying my back hurts to their insurance company!


----------



## mudpuppy

Road Guy said:


> damn what brand was that? That impressive!




OEM, AC Delco.


----------



## Supe

You flee the scene in NC, it's a Class 1 misdemeanor bare minimum.  Major damage or injury (&gt;$1000), you just committed a felony.


----------



## Master slacker

Our damage is $2k per the estimate.  I'm just glad it's not totaled.  We're talking about a 17 year old car here.


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; it sucks when an older car (or any car that is paid for) is totaled cause you just never get the value back of a car that runs when you have to replace it.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The last couple of weeks has been rather interesting for vehicles in the Dex household.

We've been using our 2016 Kia Cerrato (Forte in the US), since we bought it new. Been a great car, very reliable, good gas mileage, etc. Sometime last year, Mrs Dex was in an accident. Girl in the car behind her was on her phone and didn't see the light turned red. Smashed into the back of Mrs Dex and forced our car into the car in front, damaging both ends of the car (almost entirely cosmetic damage). Girl was un-insured, but our insurance took care of everything and would "recover" the costs from the girl.  Car got fixed, been running like a champ since.

That is, until 2 weeks ago. Had a couple of really cold mornings so we would wake up to ice/frost on the windows. Start the car to warm it up but the heater wasn't working properly. Sometimes would heat up just fine, other times would just blow cold air. Wasn't a huge deal because we don't drive very much and was only really cold in the mornings. After a few days, the car throws a "overheating" code on our way to work. Sure enough, temp gage is pegged. Luckily we were just a few hundred feet away from the office, so we parked it and popped the hood. Nothing looked out of the ordinary. Still had plenty of coolant, engine wasn't overly hot (not any more than usual), so we considered it confirmation that the thermostat was messed up and Mrs Dex would just drive the car to the dealership for them to have a look. She drives it home, calls the dealership to schedule an appointment, and they tell her to not drive it at all and they will send a mobile repair truck.  Truck shows up and immediately spots a coolant leak (engine had cooled off by this point and was obviously covered in coolant).  Car is towed to the dealership to review.  Dealership calls a short time later to say they've discovered a crack in the radiator that appears to be the result of an accident, so we call insurance to say they missed it during the earlier accident repair.  Takes a couple of days for insurance to make it out there to review, and they confirm it appears to be part of an accident, but say it was from a separate accident from the one previously repaired. They provide photo proof that radiator was fine.  Shit.  Dealership says it's been running with low/no coolant for a little while and could potentially have some significant engine damage.  More than just a radiator replacement, and could end up being weeks of gremlin chasing (read: $$ repairs). 

At this point, we've been about a week without a regular daily driver and have been using Bee to get around when we absolutely have to drive (take the bus or Uber otherwise).  Not a big deal, gave me an excuse to drive Bee and keep the cobwebs at bay. Small win.

Meanwhile, while at the dealership during one of the repair conversations for the Kia, we notice one of the cars in the showroom. Didn't recognize it, but it was a sportier sedan/hatch that we had seen around town that we were curious about.  We didn't have much time to really look at it that night (they were getting ready to close and we needed to get home for dinner), but we said we'd be back on the weekend to check it out more.  I made an off-comment about "it'd be really cool if it was yellow" as we were leaving and they said that yellow had been discontinued and was out of stock, but they had a cool dark grey and a red that Mrs Dex really liked.

Next morning, dealership called and said another dealership had just taken a yellow fully loaded one on trade and if we were interested they would give us a "first look" price on it.  We went in to check it out, car is awesome. Love the color, all the options we want, Mrs Dex loves how it drives (it would primarily be hers), and to top it off the dealership gives us a good price for it (including trading the busted Kia) because it's used.

So let me introduce you to the newest member to the Dex family, Queen Bee:







Picture is not our car because we don't take possession until later this week (need to clear all the mechanical checks first).

Car is a 2018 Kia Stinger GT Sport. Has a twin-turbo 3.3l V6, rear wheel drive, 8sp auto trans, and all the bells and whistles.


----------



## Road Guy

looks nice!

So are you trading in the other car with radiator issue?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Yeah, we're trading the old kia "as is" and letting them figure out the engine problems.


----------



## envirotex

Queen Bee...I like it.


----------



## MA_PE

Sharp looking car.  Good luck with it.


----------



## knight1fox3

I've seen a couple KIA Stingers around this area, they definitely look sharp! :thumbs:


----------



## Supe

So is the wife's car faster than the Camaro?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Supe said:


> So is the wife's car faster than the Camaro?


No, but it's still fast. Similar size/weight but only 350hp vs the 525 in the Camaro, plus it isn't geared as aggressively.


----------



## Supe

Car is largely disassembled again.  Engine block is all that remains in the engine bay.  Trans it out, clutch is ready to go out for custom flywheel.  Tore the rear suspension apart to replace the outer CV boots which were puking grease.  HFS!  One toe link was totally loose, the other was flat out missing the nut on the subframe side!  This is what locates the rear wheels both fore/aft and side to side.  That movement also left one of the two lower bolts that hold the rear hubs clinging for dear life!  I'm not sure if the alignment guy just never tightened them, or if the vibration just backed them off.  Needless to say, nylocks are going on, along with some blue loctite.  It certainly explains the banging noise coming from the back of the car during my downshifts, though!

I did replace the last two rubber bushings with a solid bearing in one spot and sphericals in the other.  I mangled one spherical by accident in the press, so there went $100 down the shitter.  Other one went in no problem after I froze it.  I never knew how bad the old rubber bushings were binding until I had these installed!  Gave up on trying to beat/drill the old bushings out. Just torched them, knocked the sleeve out, and then the leftover clamshells came out without a fight.  

I also gave Wilwood a call on the front brake issue.  They said for my piston size, the front master cylinder should have been spec'd smaller by the company who designed it to increase line pressure.  New master cylinder on order.  Not looking forward to it, because it is a BITCH to get to (under/behind the dash), and requires grinding on the master to fit the pedal assembly.  It should actually let my front brakes work and ease up on the pedal pressure some which will be nice, because I like being able to stop the car from 160 mph.  I'm also installing a proportioning valve inline with the rear brakes so I am positive I've nipped the issue once and for all.


----------



## Master slacker

I'm stuntin' in Orange with an A6 for a few days.  Nice car, too much tech.  WAY too much f'ing tech.


----------



## jeb6294

Had an Audi A4 for a little while back in the day.  Was a fun little car to drive, but swore I would never get another one...costs a fortune to maintain/repair.


----------



## Road Guy

window on Tahoe wont stay up - do you all think its the regulator or the motor?  it does "roll up" (power motor) but wont stay up? Regulator is $110, motor is $45 bucks.. or just order both?


----------



## Supe

What won't stay up?  Is it slowly sliding down, coming down crooked, or lowering itself back down the same amount each time?


----------



## Road Guy

(Rear window) passenger side Rolls up but then falls down to about the same level each time

Giving my 18 year old an afternoon project

#prayers—


----------



## Supe

Assuming its not an electrical indexing issue, then the regulator assembly likely needs to be replaced.  Those motors are typically worm drive and don't slip, whereas the cables on the regulator can stretch or break.


----------



## Road Guy

10-4 thanks, well start with the regulator- door panel is already broken off on the inside so at least it will save that step!


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> window on Tahoe wont stay up - do you all think its the regulator or the motor?  it does "roll up" (power motor) but wont stay up? Regulator is $110, motor is $45 bucks.. or just order both?


Neither....$1.92 at Home Depot.


----------



## Road Guy

if there is a way I can jerry rig it to just stay up I am up for that!


----------



## MA_PE

done


----------



## Road Guy

that might make it rough for the kid up in South Dakota this winter


----------



## Dleg

Foam board.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> that might make it rough for the kid up in South Dakota this winter


Are you suddenly going soft? Since when did you care, or is the concern a Mrs RG thing?


----------



## Supe

New engine arrived, and began the process of trying to make it fit.  The engine itself is beautiful.  I thought there were broken oil pan studs, but it turns out they welded a few of the pan bolt holes closed.  Guess they couldn't access them in the old car, but the pan has a thick billet rail and was sealing just fine it appears.  Everything is mint under the valve covers, and the bottom end is the prettiest machine work I've ever seen.  Even the rods/caps are laser engraved with their respective numbers and sides!

It LOOKS like it will fit the cradle I have with minor grinding, but the overall width/height of the pan will be an issue.  It looks like there may be a simple solution in simply raising the entire engine cradle up about 1/2" in order to clear the mounting clamshells for the steering rack.  I need to pull the old motor tomorrow and get it out of the way, replace the oil pan gasket, bolt the cradle up, and lower it into the engine bay, stopping just short of where its going to hit something.  I'll measure the needed spacer height from there, and if its too much, will consider cutting/welding the cradle to raise just the motor mounts up.  If that won't work, I will fab up some custom mounts that weld directly to the front frame rails, basically creating a J shaped mount on both sides.


----------



## Road Guy

so which the F is it Amazon!


----------



## jeb6294

I have found that the best way to look for car stuff on Amazon is to have a good part number and search by that.  Their "garage" feature isn't great.


----------



## Supe

Well, the NASCAR engine has to sit about 1.5" higher than hoped for on account of the oil pan, which has created a bevy of issues ranging from transmission tunnel clearance to major exhaust issues.  Looking like I will have to fab new motor mounts, and new headers from scratch.  *sigh*  There goes my last two races of 2018!  I will also need a hood scoop the size of the Sears Tower.


----------



## csb

My Subaru now has a kayak roof rack.


----------



## Supe

csb said:


> My Subaru now has a kayak roof rack.


I assume you'll never be shaving your legs again?


----------



## csb

Supe said:


> I assume you'll never be shaving your legs again?


I like that you assume I began.


----------



## Road Guy

Speaking of Subarus, I actually saw a group of similar fairly hairy legged women that were actually so proud to own the Jeep renegade they scheduled a ride? I assume they took some mean mall crawls??? It was so awkward I had to stop and take a pic (from my loaner pos Jeep Cherokee )

Lots of handsome women on hand, with carabiners!


----------



## Supe

Supe said:


> Well, the NASCAR engine has to sit about 1.5" higher than hoped for on account of the oil pan, which has created a bevy of issues ranging from transmission tunnel clearance to major exhaust issues.  Looking like I will have to fab new motor mounts, and new headers from scratch.  *sigh*  There goes my last two races of 2018!  I will also need a hood scoop the size of the Sears Tower.


And here's what a NASCAR V8 looks like roughly situated in a car that once housed an engine the size of a backpack (not sure why the board is rotating the pic?):


----------



## Road Guy

damn if you can pull that off I think I need you to come take a look at the emissions on my old jeep!  sucks about the rest of racing season..

Last weekend I did finally replace the motor and regulator for the rear window in my old Tahoe that had broken, glad I bought both pieces as one unit cause that would have been a PIA to replace just one of those parts.. should have probably ordered all 4  while I was doing it, but after staring at it for a bit to figure out how to remove the old one, it went back in pretty easy..

I know Advance Auto Parts places are iffy, but I have started using them to order parts versus ordering online, usually a tad cheaper since you don't have to pay for shipping with them- we have some grey hairs that work at the one near my house that at least act like they care, so Im going to go with it for a while ..


----------



## csb

Road Guy said:


> Speaking of Subarus, I actually saw a group of similar fairly hairy legged women that were actually so proud to own the Jeep renegade they scheduled a ride? I assume they took some mean mall crawls??? It was so awkward I had to stop and take a pic (from my loaner pos Jeep Cherokee )
> 
> Lots of handsome women on hand, with carabiners!


My mom owns a Renegade and she thinks she's a BA, but mostly they seem to be driven by other women in her age group.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I know Advance Auto Parts places are iffy, but I have started using them to order parts versus ordering online, usually a tad cheaper since you don't have to pay for shipping with them- we have some grey hairs that work at the one near my house that at least act like they care, so Im going to go with it for a while ..


Advance is CONSTANTLY having 15-20% off online ordering.  If you make a burner email and do the "signup", you can knock the 20% off and still use the pickup in-store option.  That's usually how I buy batteries from them.


----------



## Road Guy

I do use their coupon / reward system quite a bit - fairly helpful with 4 vehicles, two of them pushing 20 years

I didn't see any (new) renegades on the trip from Ouray to telluride last week &amp; only saw one non jeep vehicle (this 4 runner) other than 4 wheelers and dirt bikes.. (but this is a meet up worthy pic!)

Also for anyone coming to CO for vacation I totally recommend this drive (Imogene Pass) you can rent a Polaris for around $300 a day -

I sat and laughed for a good bit watching the renegade folks prance around in the parking lot? I was like what time warp did I slip into??


----------



## Road Guy

so going on almost 90 days without my regular jeep..

today I get a call from the dealer that they can give me a used / rebuilt transmission early next week and get my ride back

......or I can continue to wait probably another month to get a new transmission - I learned through this ordeal that the people that built the original manual transmission for Chrysler went out of business and they are being made by Mercedes in Germany (part of that sounds good) but I am also told this is a new manufacturing line being built so even if I get a new tranny, I will literally be getting one of the first 20 or so off this new plant? I don't know what type of Quality Control issues they are going to have??

which poision do I choose? both come with a 12 month warranty - but I think either way I am selling the manual and getting rid of this..


----------



## jeb6294

Depending on how it’s done, sometimes I’d rather get rebuilt rather than new.  If it’s actually been torn down and rebuilt by someone, then I would tend to think that it’ll be better than a tranny that is 1-of-50 put together by some guys on a production line somewhere.


----------



## Road Guy

The other part of the equation is that they keep pushing the date of the new transmission out every month - now they are saying “late September” which I assume means October...

Whether I get a new tranny or this rebuilt one it has the same warranty - 

I’m leaning towards taking the bird in the hand because selling it is my main option -

I read that something like less than 3% of cars in the US have a manual transmission. Probably time to get out of that business since it will likely not be supported very much in the future


----------



## P-E

Can't believe that only 3% here have manual transmission.   I have one of the few.  I prefer it over my wife's automatic.


----------



## Road Guy

It was in US news / works report - but I re read it and it’s 3% of vehicles sold today have a manual..

Sounds like manuals don’t help meet the Obummer mandated 39 MPG criteria - so guess I can literally say “thanks Obama” for it taking 3 months to get my vehicle back!


----------



## P-E

I thought standards always gave you a couple mpg better.  Is 39 the fleet average mandate?


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Manual transmissions have been fading dramatically for the last 20 years.

Several contributors to the decline: driver convenience being the biggest reason simply because most drivers hate riding the clutch in rush hour traffic and prefer to keep their hands free so they can use their phone.

The tech for auto transmissions is also significantly better than it used to be. So much so that most weekend racers prefer autos because they shift faster. Even Indy/F1 cars use paddle shifters now.

The market for manual transmissions is horribly small. Dealerships can't sell them and they sit on the lots for months. Younger drivers don't know how to use them and older drivers prefer the convenience of an auto.

Only people who want a manual are typically nostalgic gearheads.

Ironically enough, Chevy had to modify the V8 engines in the automatic Camaros because they couldn't meet the same (read: better) fuel mileage of the manuals. If you want a real LS3 engine, you needed the manual trans because the autos got a L99 that would shut off 4 cylinders under light loads to improve mileage.


----------



## Road Guy

I got the call that the tranny is at the stealership... so hopefully next week will be back rolling.. I would like to get at least one "doors off" ride before summer is over 

I'm sort of in a pickle on what to do, I have this thing paid off and really enjoy driving it. Even if I get $20+ Grand for it I wont be able to replace it for that.. CarMax offered me around $22 the day before all this shit happened, so figure maybe $25K on the open market - but that's such a PIA..

I still think I got F'd at the dealer since the tranny worked when I dropped it off - Dude told me they "broke stuff" trying to diagnose it - of course that didn't help get me anywhere with those rat bastards at Chrysler -

I went and test drove a Tacoma and like it but its just "not a jeep" - also got hooked on some real 4 wheeling this summer and Tacoma's don't have a solid front axle and wont go where I would like to go - but I guess I can always pony up and just rent a jeep (but what's the fun in that)

Also have to help get two other kids rides in the next 2 years so don't really want a $600 payment for a new Tacoma....

resale stats for 2018 are good and bad.. (good for what I want to sell but bad for what I want to buy)


----------



## jeb6294

Sounds like you need to get something that's fun to drive around town and more economical and a dedicated offroad vehicle...if you're really thinking of doing offroading.  YJ's (square headlights) can be gotten pretty cheap, they still had the I-6 and they're usually pretty easy to beef up for some offroading.  Take it from someone who used to do it, it's not as much fun when you have to take it easy so you don't have to worry about breaking your ride to work.


----------



## Supe

Why not just buy a cheap offroader on the side (4 runner, etc.) and not have worry about f*cking something nice up on the trails?


----------



## Road Guy

well that's kind of the point of owning a jeep is you don't have to have a separate vehicle - &amp; 4 runners are good SUV's but they wont go where I want to go (Google black bear pass)    well they can probably make it but not as easy.....

Most of the trails here don't have  the underbrush/ tree cover like in the SE - concerns for scrapes is low &amp; I wont do much true rock crawling where you might roll..

I ended up having to sell the TJ I bought for the daughter, too many issues and I think it needed a new engine, but just to show you how crazy the jeep market in CO is, I bought it for $3K, and ended up selling it to a shop for parts for $3500 (they mainly wanted the frame &amp; the A/C unit) - I had traded it to a guy for an XJ (the "square Cherokee") but he couldn't get it to pass emissions either so I convinced him to trade back so I could sleep at night..

but still looking for a TJ or YJ for the kid that I wouldn't worry about scratching up but a decent one is going to be at least $8 grand and that's one with probably nearly 200K miles on them, almost better to get an older JK at this point..


----------



## FLBuff PE

Road Guy said:


> well that's kind of the point of owning a jeep is you don't have to have a separate vehicle - &amp; 4 runners are good SUV's but they wont go where I want to go (Google *black bear pass*)    well they can probably make it but not as easy.....
> 
> Most of the trails here don't have  the underbrush/ tree cover like in the SE - concerns for scrapes is low &amp; I wont do much true rock crawling where you might roll..
> 
> I ended up having to sell the TJ I bought for the daughter, too many issues and I think it needed a new engine, but just to show you how crazy the jeep market in CO is, I bought it for $3K, and ended up selling it to a shop for parts for $3500 (they mainly wanted the frame &amp; the A/C unit) - I had traded it to a guy for an XJ (the "square Cherokee") but he couldn't get it to pass emissions either so I convinced him to trade back so I could sleep at night..
> 
> but still looking for a TJ or YJ for the kid that I wouldn't worry about scratching up but a decent one is going to be at least $8 grand and that's one with probably nearly 200K miles on them, almost better to get an older JK at this point..


That pass is no joke! I mountain biked that over ten years ago! I wasn't sure it was open to vehicles anymore.


----------



## Road Guy

we did it in a razor and it was fun as hell (wife was a little wigged out a few times). I would like to make a long weekend in Ouray a weekly thing in the summer

I also thought it would be a fun mtn bike ride but I didn't see any mtn bikes on either Black Bear or Imogene (but plenty of dirt bikes)


----------



## jeb6294

It's not the underbrush you have to worry about, if you're going to be in rocks, it's the broken axles that'll usually get you.  Jeeps (real Jeeps anyway) have a seemingly infinite number of potential upgrades, but the stock axles and T-cases weren't the best.  That was the thing I was worried about most when I had my TJ.  I actually found a Dana 44 axle and had added some armor and a locker (which is also a necessity) but never had a chance to get it under the Jeep.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> at least $8 grand and that's one with probably nearly 200K miles on them, almost better to get an older JK at this point..


Toyota Land Cruiser...200K miles is nothing.


----------



## envirotex

Best off-road vehicle we ever had was a 1975 Ford Bronco.  Can't beat the short wheel-base and manual lock-out 4WD.  Maybe not not as many after market parts as Jeep, though...


----------



## Road Guy

^- don’t disagree but finding parts for them is insane (or even finding an actual
Bronco)!!

Even YJ’s are becoming harder and harder to find parts..

Through my crazy 01 TJ fiasco I befriended the guy who owns Jeeps unlimited (out of Erie) so they have Dana 44’s all day long....

And land cruisers / rovers may rate well but you rarely see them outside the mall parking lot


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> And land cruisers / rovers may rate well but you rarely see them outside the mall parking lot


Totally different goal than off-roading...if you're looking for a safe dependable SUV with 4WD for your kid to drive, then...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

The sidewall of the tire on my Camaro blew out last week. Didn't think it would be a big deal, just go into the tire store and get a replacement.

Nope.

The tire size is common here in NZ....on SUV's.  Consequently there is minimal selection for appropriate performance class tires. The ones that are available are also stupid expensive (over $500 each) and aren't rated very well. My only real option is to import them from the US with shipping costs at $100+ each ($150NZD). End up costing over a grand just for 2 tires.


----------



## Road Guy

Amazon prime?

(I know wishful thinking)...


----------



## jeb6294

Sorry, I don't see where the problem is....


----------



## Supe

Ferrari is expected to announce that Kimi Raikkonen will be replaced by a little French turd next year in Formula 1.  Kimi is a former world champion, holds the record for fastest F1 lap in history (set last weekend), and has the largest fan base in all of F1, most notably for his calm demeanor and "nothing phases me" attitude, which resulted in him being nicknamed "The Iceman" many years ago.  He's currently ranked third overall, with his poor finishes all coming from either car failure or being wrecked by other drivers during the opening lap.

The French turd (a rich kid from Monaco) replacing him was a champion in the feeder series, but has a best finish of 6th (in a race where many other cars crashed out), has crashed out in 4 of his 14 races, has only finished better than 10th twice, but the former Ferrari chairman, now deceased, had a real chub for him, and in typical Italian fashion, they are expected to place emotion ahead of common sense.

On the plus side, it will let me sleep in on Sunday mornings again, because I'll have zero reason to watch Formula 1, which if not for Kimi, is akin to watching a parade without floats.


----------



## leggo PE

There's a reason to watch F1 in the first place?


----------



## Master slacker

Nope


----------



## Master slacker

Seafoamed the 'rolla and ended up with a failed coil.   &lt;_&lt;


----------



## Supe

leggo PE said:


> There's a reason to watch F1 in the first place?


Yes, Kimi Raikkonen's media interviews.

He ended up being replaced by the French turd, but has signed for two years with Sauber, a much shittier team, but where he started his F1 career.  I hope Ferrari drops another loaf next year and he scores a bunch of points.


----------



## jeb6294

This the message that has been up on the interstate signs in Ohio lately.... :woot:


----------



## knight1fox3

jeb6294 said:


> This the message that has been up on the interstate signs in Ohio lately.... :woot:


I'm on my way to Cincy now actually for an IEEE conf. Spending the weekend with friends and hitting up some Oktoberfest festivities they have there. :thumbs:


----------



## leggo PE

Prost!


----------



## Supe

Need the rain to hold off this morning so Safelite can replace my windshield in the parking lot at work.


----------



## User1

Supe said:


> Need the rain to hold off this morning so Safelite can replace my windshield in the parking lot at work.


then they're gonna drive to my house to fix the chips on friday morning


----------



## Supe

I was going about 15 mph, coming to a stop behind a Mini Cooper, when it sounded like a shot rang off.  I still have no idea where it came from, but a rock hit the base of my windshield so hard it actually knocked glass backwards into the car.  It stayed as a fracture for about 2 weeks, then sitting in the sun one afternoon it turned into a huge vertical crack.  All I can guess is that a car coming the opposite direction launched one my way.


----------



## User1

Supe said:


> I was going about 15 mph, coming to a stop behind a Mini Cooper, when it sounded like a shot rang off.  I still have no idea where it came from, but a rock hit the base of my windshield so hard it actually knocked glass backwards into the car.  It stayed as a fracture for about 2 weeks, then sitting in the sun one afternoon it turned into a huge vertical crack.  All I can guess is that a car coming the opposite direction launched one my way.﻿﻿


rude! i got a huge chip (for me, about size of a quarter including the spider cracks) and am hoping they can fix it, otherwise might have to replace the whole thing.


----------



## Supe

If its only a quarter sized, they should be able to do a resin repair.  I'll never understand pricing on these things.  My Mazda windshield (race car) was like, $260 installed.  This one is nearly $600, with $250 coming out of pocket for the insurance deductible.


----------



## User1

yeah, idk how many chips you can have repaired before you gotta replace tho. haha. 

mine is 415 installed, but my deductible is 500 so..


----------



## Dean Agnostic

Dexman PE PMP said:


> The last couple of weeks has been rather interesting for vehicles in the Dex household.
> 
> We've been using our 2016 Kia Cerrato (Forte in the US), since we bought it new. Been a great car, very reliable, good gas mileage, etc. Sometime last year, Mrs Dex was in an accident. Girl in the car behind her was on her phone and didn't see the light turned red. Smashed into the back of Mrs Dex and forced our car into the car in front, damaging both ends of the car (almost entirely cosmetic damage). Girl was un-insured, but our insurance took care of everything and would "recover" the costs from the girl.  Car got fixed, been running like a champ since.
> 
> That is, until 2 weeks ago. Had a couple of really cold mornings so we would wake up to ice/frost on the windows. Start the car to warm it up but the heater wasn't working properly. Sometimes would heat up just fine, other times would just blow cold air. Wasn't a huge deal because we don't drive very much and was only really cold in the mornings. After a few days, the car throws a "overheating" code on our way to work. Sure enough, temp gage is pegged. Luckily we were just a few hundred feet away from the office, so we parked it and popped the hood. Nothing looked out of the ordinary. Still had plenty of coolant, engine wasn't overly hot (not any more than usual), so we considered it confirmation that the thermostat was messed up and Mrs Dex would just drive the car to the dealership for them to have a look. She drives it home, calls the dealership to schedule an appointment, and they tell her to not drive it at all and they will send a mobile repair truck.  Truck shows up and immediately spots a coolant leak (engine had cooled off by this point and was obviously covered in coolant).  Car is towed to the dealership to review.  Dealership calls a short time later to say they've discovered a crack in the radiator that appears to be the result of an accident, so we call insurance to say they missed it during the earlier accident repair.  Takes a couple of days for insurance to make it out there to review, and they confirm it appears to be part of an accident, but say it was from a separate accident from the one previously repaired. They provide photo proof that radiator was fine.  Shit.  Dealership says it's been running with low/no coolant for a little while and could potentially have some significant engine damage.  More than just a radiator replacement, and could end up being weeks of gremlin chasing (read: $$ repairs).
> 
> At this point, we've been about a week without a regular daily driver and have been using Bee to get around when we absolutely have to drive (take the bus or Uber otherwise).  Not a big deal, gave me an excuse to drive Bee and keep the cobwebs at bay. Small win.
> 
> Meanwhile, while at the dealership during one of the repair conversations for the Kia, we notice one of the cars in the showroom. Didn't recognize it, but it was a sportier sedan/hatch that we had seen around town that we were curious about.  We didn't have much time to really look at it that night (they were getting ready to close and we needed to get home for dinner), but we said we'd be back on the weekend to check it out more.  I made an off-comment about "it'd be really cool if it was yellow" as we were leaving and they said that yellow had been discontinued and was out of stock, but they had a cool dark grey and a red that Mrs Dex really liked.
> 
> Next morning, dealership called and said another dealership had just taken a yellow fully loaded one on trade and if we were interested they would give us a "first look" price on it.  We went in to check it out, car is awesome. Love the color, all the options we want, Mrs Dex loves how it drives (it would primarily be hers), and to top it off the dealership gives us a good price for it (including trading the busted Kia) because it's used.
> 
> So let me introduce you to the newest member to the Dex family, Queen Bee:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture is not our car because we don't take possession until later this week (need to clear all the mechanical checks first).
> 
> Car is a 2018 Kia Stinger GT Sport. Has a twin-turbo 3.3l V6, rear wheel drive, 8sp auto trans, and all the bells and whistles.


That's gorgeous. I can only imagine what it must have been like inside and driving that. I can only imagine!


----------



## Supe

tj_PE said:


> eah, idk how many chips you can have repaired before you gotta replace tho. haha.


Until you can't see out of it.


----------



## MA_PE

My understanding is that if the crack/chip can be covered with a dollar bill then it can be repaired.

Is it $415 to repair or replace?


----------



## Road Guy

Sounds high?

I have State Farm’s and have never paid more than $100 to get the windshields replaced? 3X in the last 4 years / different cars - I do pay an extra $25 bucks / 6 months because CO has such a high rate of trucks / windshield issues


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Sounds high?
> 
> I have State Farm’s and have never paid more than $100 to get the windshields replaced? 3X in the last 4 years / different cars - I do pay an extra $25 bucks / 6 months because CO has such a high rate of trucks / windshield issues
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's all based on your comprehensive deductible.  Mine is $250, I know others with $500, and my other car used to be $0 because I paid more into it.  The newer the car, the more expensive the windshields are getting, largely due to all the sensors that are being integrated into them.  Models &lt;2 yrs old are also more expensive because they don't have as many aftermarket manufacturers, so sometimes they end up having to go with OEM glass.


----------



## Road Guy

Our regular deductible is $500 but I don't think it comes out of comprehensive?  On my card it lists something called Comprehensive and then Comprehensive w/ Full Glass . Its only on one of my vehicles but covers all my vehicles, its been worth it, I think my Jeep has 8 rock dings and one major crack, I think I am on a 2 year cycle on all the vehicles it seems..

Just had the one replaced in the  2002 Tahoe and it was the same deal.  Wife had hers done last year, ive been holding out on the jeep since its winshield is more vertical - I know it will get another rock ding the day after I replace the windshield


----------



## User1

the 415 was to replace. will be about 175 for 2 chips on site instead of in store. 

i should look at my new insurance and see what is covered. this is cash price.


----------



## Road Guy

If you can live with it for another month, see if your insurance can add a coverage for it, I believe its usually pretty cheap. Mine seems high but I was told CO has the highest per capita windshield breaks in the US. Which seems true, I had only done one windshields replacement prior to moving here and am now prepping for #4 in 5 years


----------



## Supe

I may or may not have broken a windshield ion I-10 in Louisiana, called my insurance, upped the glass coverage, and had it replaced 3 days later when I got back in town.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Supe said:


> If its only a quarter sized, they should be able to do a resin repair.  I'll never understand pricing on these things.  My Mazda windshield (race car) was like, $260 installed.  This one is nearly $600, with $250 coming out of pocket for the insurance deductible.


That's one good thing about Kentucky.  There is a state law that insurance companies have to pay 100% of a windshield repair/replacement, and they cannot count it against the customer (i.e., raise rates, drop the customer, etc.).  It's considered a safety/visibility issue to drive around with a cracked windshield, so our legislature did something productive about it.


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> I may or may not have broken a windshield ion I-10 in _*Louisiana*_...


You did.  That's like saying I may or may not have gotten sand in my shoes when I walked through the Mojave desert.


----------



## User1

yea, my insurance covers full glass so should i get it replaced or repaired????


----------



## snickerd3

wilheldp_PE said:


> That's one good thing about Kentucky.  There is a state law that insurance companies have to pay 100% of a windshield repair/replacement, and they cannot count it against the customer (i.e., raise rates, drop the customer, etc.).  It's considered a safety/visibility issue to drive around with a cracked windshield, so our legislature did something productive about it.


i wish illinois were like that


----------



## Road Guy

You should be able to add it to your insurance - it’s pretty cheap - and they ar not going the raise your rates for windshield stuff / only collision IMO....


And TJ if you just have small ding Less than a quarter it may be easier to just repair it - it if you have the insurance might as well use it...


----------



## User1

Road Guy said:


> You should be able to add it to your insurance - it’s pretty cheap - and they ar not going the raise your rates for windshield stuff / only collision IMO....
> 
> 
> And TJ if you just have small ding Less than a quarter it may be easier to just repair it - it if you have the insurance might as well use it...


It's right in the middle of my windshield and I have like 4-5 others, maybe 3 have been fixed? :dunno: I when I got my new insurance they looked at"claims" and counted the repairs therefore I had a higher rate..


----------



## Flyer_PE

Figured it was time for an update on the project. Progress has slowed down some due to work and a couple of other projects but it's getting there.  I posted on the Allis Chalmers forum to see if the "Correct Police" would get their undies in a knot over the DIN rail terminal block.


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> You did.  That's like saying I may or may not have gotten sand in my shoes when I walked through the Mojave desert.


Obviously.  In fact, I had three separate strikes to the same windshield on that trip.  One from a cement truck in Houston, and then two on I-10 in Lousy-ana.


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> i wish illinois were like that


I don't know if its an NC law too, but my insurance agent commented that any glass under the comprehensive policy would have no affect on rates.


----------



## MA_PE

Looking good, @Flyer_PE Are you getting ready for the tractor pulls?


----------



## Road Guy

Do you think this would be an easy Saturday project?

So 33's fit on a stock wrangler, but now its a little "tight" Runs good but thinking of putting this leveling kit on to gain just a little  bit better look and articulation.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-jku-1-5-perf-leveling-1351500-cust-install-J101887.html

Looks like the biggest PIA would be just doing this on the floor of the garage?  Id get a real life but I have 2 kids in college almost..


----------



## Supe

If you've got air tools and access to a good spring compressor, yes.


----------



## Road Guy

It reads like the springs just slide on? (or did you mean Air Compressor)?  I do have air tools, 1/2 sockets, air compressor and a fridge full of beer..


----------



## csb

Go make it happen, @Supe.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah what's your Saturday look like? while you are in town?


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> It reads like the springs just slide on? (or did you mean Air Compressor)?  I do have air tools, 1/2 sockets, air compressor and a fridge full of beer..


At some point your taking the load off the spring and then putting it back on.  A quick look at the instructions indicates that they do it by using a jack stand to hold the body up and the hydraulic jack on the axle to unload the spring and then jack the axle back up to load the spring.   I think spring compressors would allow you to do that in a more controlled fashion.

https://www.amazon.com/AMPRO-T70570-Coil-Spring-Compressor/dp/B00A8FNRDY


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> yeah what's your Saturday look like? while you are in town?


Sorry, other than tonight, I'm tied up until my flight tomorrow.  



MA_PE said:


> At some point your taking the load off the spring and then putting it back on.  A quick look at the instructions indicates that they do it by using a jack stand to hold the body up and the hydraulic jack on the axle to unload the spring and then jack the axle back up to load the spring.   I think spring compressors would allow you to do that in a more controlled fashion.


Yeah, we call springs "missiles" at that point.  Even with safety chains, the stored energy is massive.  A good spring compressor (you can usually rent them from Autozone, etc.) goes a long way.


----------



## jeb6294

It's been way too long since I put the lift on my Jeep, but I most certainly did not use a decapitator, aka, a spring compressor.  I remember being able to drop the axles enough that you could just pull the springs out.  Putting the new taller springs in wasn't quite as easy, but even that didn't call for any extra "stuff".  The only thing I can't remember is if there was anything that I had to disconnect to get enough drop, i.e. trackbar, control arm, sway bar, etc.


----------



## Road Guy

I would ask this question on jeepforum but all I would get in reply is "aww you need 37's man and a XXXX $50000 lift blah blah blah"1 Lols

I think Autozone actually rents them (spring comressors) for next to nothing so may not be a bad backup plan if I cant get them on -

All the 4 Wheel shops are like 2 months out in terms of new work...

I originally looked at a cheaper kit but you have to remove the springs to install the spacers so I figured if I had to do that might as well go with the new coil springs?


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Do you think this would be an easy Saturday project?
> 
> So 33's fit on a stock wrangler, but now its a little "tight" Runs good but thinking of putting this leveling kit on to gain just a little  bit better look and articulation.
> 
> https://www.extremeterrain.com/teraflex-jku-1-5-perf-leveling-1351500-cust-install-J101887.html
> 
> Looks like the biggest PIA would be just doing this on the floor of the garage?  Id get a real life but I have 2 kids in college almost.


4 hours install time





This is one of those kits that you can literally do with basic hand tools, a jack and jack stands.  There is more than enough droop to drop the axles and easily swap out the springs.

My question would be if there's that much of a reason to do it in the first place.  I thought the newer Jeeps were designed to run 33's from the factory.  Seems like unnecessary time and expense for not much gain.


----------



## Road Guy

Cause I need to spend the money this year so they don't take it away from my budget next year!   #government

The 33's do fit on nicely but they do rub if you cut the wheel tight &amp; they look "tight' in the rear ( @csb )  But that was a pretty slick thing they did (for a change) , the 33's were an immediate upgrade over the stock 29's

I looked into doing a similar gain suspension lift and it looks like a lot more work so figured I would do this just to help account for the added weight of the new bumper I need to put into next years budget


----------



## jeb6294

Just doesn't look like much difference at all in the before -vs- after pictures.  I did a 4" lift on mine and, looking at the install you posted, I think it was pretty much the same installation.  They've already got you disconnecting the brake line brackets and sway bar links, an actual lift should only be a matter of replacing those or adding extension brackets.  You're not going to get really difficult/expensive until you get up into a long arm suspension when you start replacing control arm mounts and such.


----------



## Road Guy

do you remember which one you put on by chance?   I looked at a couple that were just a little more involved (had to relocate the break line versus detach it and re attach it) &amp; it seems they also had you do some measuring and I lost interest 

I don't think I will ever run 35's just due to how much driving I do, so I was mainly just looking for something that should give me around 2 inches of lift to help with some trail turns basically..


----------



## jeb6294

I believe it was this one:  https://skyjacker.com/shop/suspension-lift-kit/tj401bphx/, although I don't think those are the right instructions because they look like they have a lot more stuff included that didn't come with the kit.

Did the whole thing in my single-car garage over the course of a weekend, but could have done it in a couple hours if I'd gone out and worked on it instead of taking breaks and such.


----------



## jeb6294

https://www.quadratec.com/categories/jeep_lift_kits_suspension/lift_kits?f[0]=sm_liftkit_height_range%3A3 - 4.5 inch&amp;solrsort=ps_commerce_price_low asc

Not sure if it's still the case, but SkyJacker, Fabtech, Teraflex and Rubicon Express used to be considered the better kits.


----------



## Master slacker

After replacing all four plugs and one misfiring coil, another coil decided to go south.  Bit the bullet and replaced the remaining three coils.  Some cars are still able to be easily worked on.


----------



## JayKay PE

So, random question.  Went to do my 40k checkup at the dealership for my 2016 Corolla S.  They came back and said that my brake fluid was 'dirty' and that I should get my brake fluid flushed.  They quoted $185, which I knew was high, so I didn't get it done.  Went to another auto shop and they quoted me $100 to get it done next weekend (guy seemed legit and stated how much would be materials vs. time).  I don't mind getting this done if I need to, but there seems to be a huge divide on the internet when I googled this, with a ton of people saying you should get it done every 30k miles, or every 3 years, and others saying they've had a car for 10+ years and never flushed the brake fluid.  I do live on Long Island, where the moisture is really high year round and the county seems really aggressive with salt during the winter (if that makes a difference).

I guess what I'm asking is: is there a way for me to check my brake fluid to see if it is "dirty"/doesn't look like olive oil, and is it worth it for me to get changed ASAP if it is dirty, or can I wait a while/drive on it?  Also, would my brakes be flushed when I get my brake pads replaced/any work done on my brakes?

I'm really "car dumb", and don't mind paying for work on my car, but I also don't want to pay for something that really doesn't need to be fixed (it's a Corolla, not like a Shelby or Audi).


----------



## Road Guy

I have never heard of dirty brake fluid to be  honest?

That may not mean anything though. Sounds like a dealer dirty trick


----------



## Jbone27 PE

I haven't either. It's a hydraulic system not a lubricant. $100 isn't terrible if it needs to be done I've just never even heard of it being checked for clean or dirty.


----------



## Supe

Yes, brake fluid gets dirty and absorbs moisture (at least DOT 3/4 do).  Unless you're driving to the point of overheating your brakes which is highly unlikely except in performance driving/racing conditions, it makes zero difference.  If you want to have it flushed, the time to do it is when you're having your brakes serviced which will cut down on the labor.


----------



## Road Guy

But I always change my blinker fluid.....


----------



## Supe

Having a car that came with a 1.3L rotary engine but now has a NASCAR cup engine in it, I can't exactly buy off the shelf exhaust headers.  For this motor, I need 1 7/8" diameter primaries for the header tubing, which as luck would have it, is pretty darn close to 1.5" sch. 40 PVC pipe... 

I did a full mockup of the driver's side in PVC using standard 45 or 90 bends wherever possible, and now have the lengthy process of transferring to steel.  It takes some calibrated eyeballs to get some of the lengths and turns right when you transfer the shape, but as you can see, you can get pretty darn close (not sure why EB flips the orientation on the photos).  

The first picture is a little jig that I made.  It's the same centerline radius of the tube bends, and when you lay the bend over the paper template, it lets you scribe a line on the top of the tube that's straight and perpendicular to it anywhere along the bend.  If you get this wrong, once cut on the bandsaw, you end up with an oval end that doesn't butt up properly for welding and skews the angle of the adjacent tube.  This is a long, painstaking pain in the ass, but it's about $150 in materials for DIY vs. $1500 for custom.


----------



## JayKay PE

I got cocky asking about changing brake fluid...


----------



## Master slacker

I don't think brake fluid will fix that


----------



## jeb6294

Master slacker said:


> I don't think brake fluid will fix that


But duct tape will...


----------



## Supe

I bet the little old lady crossing the road never even saw it coming.


----------



## JayKay PE

I mean, it was a herd of school children, so there is a bonus point value!  Isn't it amazing how much damage can be done under 10 MPH?


----------



## kevo_55

Damn, that sucks......


----------



## MA_PE

kevo_55 said:


> Damn, that sucks......


x2!  What did you hit?  did the brakes not stop in  time?


----------



## Master slacker

the brakes look fine.  The_ car_ didn't stop in time


----------



## JayKay PE

MA_PE said:


> x2!  What did you hit?  did the brakes not stop in  time?


Hit/rear-ended another car.  It's raining/misting here this morning and a guy merged quickly into my lane and then slammed on the brakes (because it was early morning NY traffic and traffic randomly stops for no reason).  I had space before this guy randomly switched lanes, but he obviously reduced that pretty quickly.  I braked, but the rain kept me going forward even with ABS.  I swerved/was able to get my car changing direction enough so only one side of my bumper got crunched instead of going directly into his back end.

I mean, it's a car, and I'm okay.  It's already at an auto body shop.  GEICO is coming out tomorrow to look at it; hopefully they say it can be repaired instead of total because KBB says it's about $11.5k in value...but mostly because I don't feel like going through the car buying process again so soon (little over 2 years I've had this car, and I bought new because I use my cars until they die/reach over 250k).


----------



## JayKay PE

Wait....I just realized something.  They're going to have to test the brake system to see if it's okay!  I will get my brake fluid flushed most likely!

*always look on the bright side of life begins playing in the background*


----------



## Ble_PE

Actually, they'll see that you haven't flushed your brake fluid and it's dirty, so that means they won't pay the claim.


----------



## MA_PE

NY traffic is similar to Boston traffic i.e. people suck.

Sorry for your troubles.

No way that's totaled


----------



## JayKay PE

Ble_PE said:


> Actually, they'll see that you haven't flushed your brake fluid and it's dirty, so that means they won't pay the claim.


Literally this. I’m just dreading potential car shopping. Because on Long Island there are seven Toyota dealerships within a half hour of my location and they’re terrifyingly aggressive in this super saturated market.


----------



## snickerd3

JayKay0914 said:


> Literally this. I’m just dreading potential car shopping. Because on Long Island there are seven Toyota dealerships within a half hour of my location and they’re terrifyingly aggressive in this super saturated market.


use that you your advantage.  do your online research about pricing/options then play them off each other.  you can almost literally walk to the next one.


----------



## Master slacker

TBH, that damage doesn't look to be something that would "total" a car.  Did your airbags go off?  Those are expensive to replace.  If it's just a hood, frame straightening, light, bumper, and paint, it should be fine.  For comparo, my wife's 2002 Rav4 (look the book value up for that) with 186k miles got hit on the passenger side door and crumpled it, the pillar, and passenger side front quarter panel.  Got the pillar repaired, door replaced, resprayed, re-pinstriped the entire passenger side, and replaced the quarter panel... not totaled.  Good luck.


----------



## JayKay PE

snickerd3 said:


> use that you your advantage.  do your online research about pricing/options then play them off each other.  you can almost literally walk to the next one.


Nah, they're all in cahoots with each other.  For me it's tiring because I'm literally like, "I know you're getting the car from BLANK.  I am only here because the Costco program for cars says that this is the price I'm getting and you're the only dealership that works with them.  We both know this is the price I'm paying, but keep asking me to upgrade and I'll just sit here."  

@Master slacker I don't think it'll be totaled, but whenever I think things are going JayKay way, they usually aren't.  So I'll keep my fingers crossed until the adjuster calls me, says it isn't too bad, and gives me a time line.  Aka; all I want for Christmas is my car.


----------



## Supe

Just say "go write this up, or I'm walking out the door."  If they say anything other than "OK", pick up the paper with the price written on it, and start walking.  They will trip over themselves to chase you into the parking lot if you've called their bluff.


----------



## Road Guy

I like to argue and haggle at work and such but I just don't care to do that for my personal purchases, aside from my house - so I usually just go to CarMax and get a 1 year old vehicle, save some money and all the BS associated with dealerships.


----------



## MA_PE

Anyone heard for increasing the range of your remote fob by holding to your head??

Just learned about this on a car site that I frequent.  I guess it works!

http://lifeinboxes.blogspot.com/2008/02/mythbusters-can-you-increase-range-of.html


----------



## csb

MA_PE said:


> Anyone heard for increasing the range of your remote fob by holding to your head??
> 
> Just learned about this on a car site that I frequent.  I guess it works!
> 
> http://lifeinboxes.blogspot.com/2008/02/mythbusters-can-you-increase-range-of.html


I learned this in 2002 in the parking lot of a St. Louis Olive Garden and it's magical.


----------



## Supe




----------



## JayKay PE

Now that I'm not driving my car/do not have it nearby, I'm suddenly realizing how much stuff I threw in there.  Raining?  No extra umbrellas.  Tire pressure low?  No pressure gaugy thingy.  Horseback riding?  Half chaps were in trunk.  Uggggggh.


----------



## Master slacker

JayKay0914 said:


> Half chaps were in trunk.


----------



## JayKay PE

Master slacker said:


>


At least they weren't full chaps!  Gave them up when I went full-English.  No more tassels for me!!!!


----------



## Master slacker

Saturday was a busy day.  Changed oil in two cars, changed wipers on two cars, rotated tires on two cars, changed coolant in one car, washed / waxed one car.  Was an excellent stay-out-of-the-house-because-the-neighbor's-kid-is-over-and-all-the-kids-are-f'ing-crazy day.


----------



## Flyer_PE

What a difference a year makes:

12/9/2017:






12/8/2018:


----------



## MA_PE

looks great!  nice job.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Thanks!  Still a lot of detail work to be done but it's nice to hear it run again.  It's also nice that it's no longer a 4500 lb paperweight in the shop.


----------



## JayKay PE

AHHHHH!  That looks beautiful!!!  Did you just replace, or was some repair involved as well?  Any reason for the repair (besides not wanting it to be a paperweight?)


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Mostly repaired/rebuilt.  They didn't make very many of this model so parts can be hard to come by.  I'm doing the restoration more for entertainment than anything else.


----------



## jeb6294

Guess I need to find a new place to take the truck.  Used to go to the local Ford dealership for maintenance, but I don't think we'll be on speaking terms any more.

Beginning of October I went in for an oil change and had a coupon for their "works" deal...oil change and check all the vital stuff, rotate tires, etc.  One of the batteries was shot but it was less than 3 yrs old so they both got replaced under warranty.  Everything else was fine.  One of the things on the check list was brakes which they showed as yellow (green/yellow/red) which is 4/32" to 7/32" and "may require future attention".  Fast forward a month and a half later and I've got brake pads down to the metal.  Kicker is, when I had the brakes put on, they were doing some lifetime brake deal so even if they'd needed changed, it shouldn't have been an issue.

The red dust down the side of the truck kind of narrowed down where the problem was.  Tried calling the dealer a bunch of times, left voice mails, finally sent an email to the service manager and the general manager of the dealership.  Ignored by everybody.  So, Amazon for new rotors and pads, Harbor Freight to get a jack that would actually lift my truck, Advance Auto Parts for a new caliper and a few other odds and ends.  In the end, I'm out about ~$300 for everything, but I kept all my receipts and started looking up the steps to take someone to small claims court.

The spring clips the came out looked like they had been cut in half.  I'm wondering if they decided to take a shortcut to make install easier and I had a pad that was constantly rubbing.


----------



## knight1fox3

Flyer_PE said:


> ^Thanks!  Still a lot of detail work to be done but it's nice to hear it run again.  It's also nice that it's no longer a 4500 lb paperweight in the shop.


Does that thing have a heated seat and Bluetooth yet? Looks fantastic. I foresee you participating in a few tractor shows in the near future with how good of condition it is in now. There's one just down the road from us every year at the VFW. It's a fun time. :thumbs:


----------



## Road Guy

tractor is looking nice!

Jeb- that sucks - I would pay them a visit that way they cant ignore you!

I have gone back to doing my own oil changes / brakes / shocks, etc - everyone is either a crook or incompetent it seems - I had what I thought was a decent mechanic until I just got tired of him making mistakes and wanting me to pay for it...


----------



## Flyer_PE

@knight1fox3  The one show I know I'll have it at next year is Union Grove in September.  There's an annual show there anyway but next year they are hosting a GOTO (Gathering of the Orange).  Hope to hit a few others around the area before that one though.

@jeb6294 - I had the exact opposite problem with my former dealer.  They told me the rear pads on my truck were on the edge of going metal-on-metal.  Since the pads only had around 15k miles on them, I was concerned about the cause and decided to do the work myself.  Here is what I found when I pulled them:






I figure those pads were only good for another 50k miles or so.


----------



## jeb6294

Looks like small claims is enough of a PITA that I'm going to start with a BBB complaint, then if that doesn't help, I'll start filling out forms.

Got the brakes bled yesterday after work and then took it out last night for some erratic driving to bed the new pads.  Seem to be working well.  The middle picture I posted, you can see there's still a bit left on the outside pad, but the inside pad is obviously gone.  I made sure to get video of me checking the slide pins to show they weren't stuck.

I certainly don't have a problem doing my own maintenance, but it was just easier having them do it, and part of the "lifetime brakes" deal was getting your service done there so they could check the pads.


----------



## Road Guy

FWIW I got my tranny expedited on my Jeep by nagging the shit out of Chrysler on jeepforum- FCA has trolls that monitor and eventually they responded to me and got mine moved up a few weeks if I would basically stop bitching about it non stop-

I assume there is some kind of popular Ford forum?

And I agree with ya on the maintenance - I don’t really like doing it but just sick of dealing with the morons in the auto industry... don’t know which is worse to be honest - the time consumption on both is high...


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

^^^ There were several GM reps on the Camaro5 forums who would message you if you posted legit problems.


----------



## jeb6294

First step, complaint has been filed with the BBB.  We'll see if that helps at all.  If not, then we'll start working on paperwork and blasting them on social media.


----------



## Road Guy

curious to see what the BBB does ( this was basically the pre- yelp procedure) keep us posted!

in other news I found out they sell these for aiding with doing brakes?  If this is not a new device I feel stupid because I have always used a gigantic bulky C-clamp? &amp; at $9 bucks its already ordered...


----------



## jeb6294

Yeah, I've just always used the cheapie Harbor Freight c-clamp and an old pad to do it.  I don't do enough brake work to justify a whole new tool...not just the $$$ but also taking up space.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> curious to see what the BBB does ( this was basically the pre- yelp procedure) keep us posted!
> in other news I found out they sell these for aiding with doing brakes?  If this is not a new device I feel stupid because I have always used a gigantic bulky C-clamp? &amp; at $9 bucks its already ordered...


I've had a variation of that in the brake tool box for 15 years. Picked one up after my clamp went awol while in the middle of a rotor replacement.


----------



## Road Guy

So I did the brakes on the jeep last weekend, have to say that little clamp worked pretty well.  My rear brakes were almost gone but after 85K miles the front brakes had more than 50% pad left on them. I went ahead and changed them since I had the tires off but I always thought the fronts wore off quicker? Maybe the brake fairy came and I just don't remember!


----------



## jeb6294

Huh, yeah, fronts generally go first...unless you installed a brake lock to hold the rear brakes and dig the front end around while rock climbing.


----------



## Supe

If its even side to side, then its likely your traction/stability control doing it, since all the newer cars handle that using the brakes.  The only other time I see rear pads wear out earlier (when they're not defective or misapplied) is when you do a lot of towing with a bunch of tongue weight.


----------



## Flyer_PE

The latest update on Project Farm Tractor:

Just finished the last of the wiring.  The lights are what happens when your were raised by a combination of an electronics technician and tinkerer father and a farmer uncle.


----------



## Supe

That thing looks great!

Found out yesterday that my tie rod end adapters only fit later generation RX7's, not mine.  Now I'm stuck buying an $80 tie rod reamer just to make a stupid set of Pinto adapters fit!


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer:  put some blue lenses in and you could be the Farm Police.  Not to be confused with the Church Police.

Tractor looks great.  nice job.

My son is away for a few months so his '09 Cobalt is sitting in the driveway.  Convoluted storyline but My in-laws shipped their car to FLA and then ended up no being able to follow it on schedule.  Therefore they're up here with no car.  My wife leaves them her car ('05 Ford Freestyle) and starts driving the Cobalt.  We've had a real cold snap come through here.  Last Friday on my way home from work, Mrs MA calls and says she left the lights on for an hour or two on the Cobalt and it won't start.  Called AAA.  Car started right up with his power pack but the battery was reading 0.0  He said he had a new replacement ion the truck and could throw it in right then.  Ambient was about 15 deg F with wind chill in the single digits.  I said fine throw a new one in.

Mrs. MA gets a call from her mother this morning.  Freestyle won't start called AAA for a jump.  I really don't want to deal with it and MIL is staying with SIL in southern NH, so fine....just go to local tire/battery shop and have them put in a new battery.  I think the Cobalt was OEM battery (it was an AC Delco and I don't remember ever having it replaced).  Not sure how old the Freestyle battery is but I'm not going to screw with it. f'n PITA.


----------



## Road Guy

Flyer - Is that your garage where the tractor is being worked on?  Totally jelly of that lift!

So MA - both battery's died? that sucks!


----------



## Road Guy

Anyone have a Toyota Rav4? Thinking of (helping) acquire one for the eldest kid - wouldn't get one without a V6 or 4WD /AWD - Most reports of them are pretty good - looking at ones in the 2012-2014 range.


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> Anyone have a Toyota Rav4?


Yes!  I am going to be useful!



Road Guy said:


> wouldn't get one without a V6 or 4WD /AWD


Oh... um...  Maybe he really meant I4 and FWD.  Typos happen.



Road Guy said:


> looking at ones in the 2012-2014 range.


Sh*t.

Well, since we're in this deep, we have a 2002 Rav4 with the 2.0L 1AZ-FE.  Nearly 200k miles and still working like a champ.  From what I gather, the V6 versions run like a scalded dog, but good luck doing any maintenance on them.  Probably the same as any other transverse V6 car.  Plug change anyone?  Our 4-banger is the antithesis of the V6 variety - dead simple to work on, but runs like a dead dog.  I'm boring nowadays... gimme the slow one.


----------



## Road Guy

I assume they are like my wife's highlander - they are advertised as either 4WD or AWD but they really have some type of full time 4 wheel drive (hopefully a notch up from the Subaru one)?

My old ass Tahoe V8 struggles in the mountains here sometimes, so I don't think anything less than a V6 or I6 if you can find one will work long term out here - Don't really want the speed just to be able to get uphill with a full car -

Its been dry for the 1st year going back and forth between Denver and Rapid City, SD, but eventually he will get stuck in one of those crazy storms they have where the interstate gets locked down for a few days..


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> Flyer - Is that your garage where the tractor is being worked on?  Totally jelly of that lift!
> 
> So MA - both battery's died? that sucks!


That lift is the greatest thing since sliced bread.  The garage belongs to a friend of mine.  He's the one responsible for the really nice paint job.  In exchange for his help in making the tractor look pretty, I'm on the hook for wiring a 66 Mustang he's building.  It's getting a bunch of digital upgrades and he hates doing the electrical work on these things.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> Flyer - Is that your garage where the tractor is being worked on?  Totally jelly of that lift!
> 
> So MA - both battery's died? that sucks!


yeah 2 batteries.  The AAA guys old me one of the truck and installed it for me in the parking lot where he met us.  $150.  MIL called/took it to the local mechanic that all the in-laws use in southern NH.  He quoted $300 for a battery (i said WTF and don't know hy they all go to his guy if that's what he charges).  MIL is going to call AAA or take it to Walmart.  (Walmart has a service center that'll throw one in, correct?)  I don't feel like going up there to do it.  FIL has to go to dialysis every couple of days which is one of the primary reasons Mrs. MA gave them her car, so we really can't play around with it.  Just $300 for a car battery?  WTF?


----------



## Supe

$300 must be for the battery and BJ combo, because it sure as hell isn't the cost to replace a battery.


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> $300 must be for the battery and BJ combo, because it sure as hell isn't the cost to replace a battery.


my thoughts exactly.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Not really a car thread topic, but it is for me because I primarily use my air compressor for airing up my tires, but I just made probably my favorite tool purchase ever.  I got a California Air Tools, 4.6 gallon, aluminum tank, ultra quiet air compressor.  That thing is ridiculously quiet when it's running, and pretty damn light for its size.  The jury is still out on this claim, but with the aluminum tank, you aren't supposed to have the corrosion/explosive decompression problem that you have if you don't regularly drain condensate out of the tank.


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> Supe said:
> 
> 
> 
> $300 must be for the battery and BJ combo, because it sure as hell isn't the cost to replace a battery.
> 
> 
> 
> my thoughts exactly.
Click to expand...

$300 for a car battery is nuts.  I paid less than half that for an Interstate battery that contains a lot more lead than any passenger car starting battery I've ever seen.


----------



## MA_PE

for "the rest of the story".  supposedly the mechanic said something that he would need to order the battery and send someone to go get it.... to justify the $300.  F'k U. IMO he just plain didn't want to bother with it and I guess the in-laws aren't that great a customer group.

MIL called AAA.  They came to the car and installed a new battery for $125.  Done.


----------



## jeb6294

MA_PE said:


> yeah 2 batteries....


Cry me a river...I've got two batteries in one truck and any time one goes bad, you have to replace both of them. 

Wait, 2 batteries 1 truck.  They should make a movie.


----------



## jeb6294

jeb6294 said:


> First step, complaint has been filed with the BBB.  We'll see if that helps at all.  If not, then we'll start working on paperwork and blasting them on social media.


HOLY SHITBALLS BATMAN!!!  Phone rings yesterday and it's some manager of something or another at the Mark Williams Group, the group that Beechmont Ford belongs to,  Long story short, agrees that they screwed up, told me to email him my receipts and they'd send me a check.

He saw where I got the lifetime brakes, but apparently Ford's policy is to not replace the pads unless they are less than 3mm.  When he checked my file, he said that I was right at 3mm when I was in for my maintenance so, per Ford's policy, they didn't replace my pads.  That's fine if you're driving something like a Ford Focus, not so much in an F-350.  He said it's one of those times where they should have used a little more common sense and never let me leave without replacing the pads.


----------



## envirotex

Supe said:


> $300 must be for the battery and BJ combo, because it sure as hell isn't the cost to replace a battery.






MA_PE said:


> my thoughts exactly.


Including delivery and installation.


----------



## Road Guy

jeb6294 said:


> HOLY SHITBALLS BATMAN!!!  Phone rings yesterday and it's some manager of something or another at the Mark Williams Group, the group that Beechmont Ford belongs to,  Long story short, agrees that they screwed up, told me to email him my receipts and they'd send me a check.
> 
> He saw where I got the lifetime brakes, but apparently Ford's policy is to not replace the pads unless they are less than 3mm.  When he checked my file, he said that I was right at 3mm when I was in for my maintenance so, per Ford's policy, they didn't replace my pads.  That's fine if you're driving something like a Ford Focus, not so much in an F-350.  He said it's one of those times where they should have used a little more common sense and never let me leave without replacing the pads.


is that less than 1/8 of an inch? Seems like one could burn through that by the next tire rotation - especially in a truck - Glad they are taking care of you - stupid for people to let something like that piss off customers -


----------



## knight1fox3

@Flyer_PE, tractor looks fantastic! And LED lighting to boot, nice! :thumbs:


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> is that less than 1/8 of an inch? Seems like one could burn through that by the next tire rotation - especially in a truck - Glad they are taking care of you - stupid for people to let something like that piss off customers -


Little bit...1/8" would be 3.175mm.  He said pretty much the same thing.

I sent scanned copies of my receipts in yesterday.  Got a call from him again yesterday afternoon confirming he'd gotten my email and that he'd have them send the check.

I'm one of those people who's pretty reasonable when it come to this kind of thing.  I suppose I could have made a big stink about the hours I had to put in to do it myself, and I would have if I'd had to go to court, but I figure worst case, I traded a little bit of my time for a new floor jack since they're reimbursing me for the one I got.


----------



## Road Guy

this looks pretty fun!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYRWDYK?ref_=pfb_alhja6ebbd9jnlla4fg7949078i4&amp;tag=hydfbook0e-20&amp;ascsubtag=pfb-P11-V01-O3-rtdzf3-KNH8GI


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> this looks pretty fun!
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYRWDYK?ref_=pfb_alhja6ebbd9jnlla4fg7949078i4&amp;tag=hydfbook0e-20&amp;ascsubtag=pfb-P11-V01-O3-rtdzf3-KNH8GI


you'll put your eye out kid.


----------



## knight1fox3

Road Guy said:


> this looks pretty fun!
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYRWDYK?ref_=pfb_alhja6ebbd9jnlla4fg7949078i4&amp;tag=hydfbook0e-20&amp;ascsubtag=pfb-P11-V01-O3-rtdzf3-KNH8GI


Tried my buddy's like that! Do it!!!


----------



## Master slacker

Oh gee, got a wee little P1135 code being thrown?  Oh, it's an O2 sensor that needs to be replaced?  Cool, got it on order and will replace it NO PROBLEM since this is easily accessible from the top of the engine.  Just need to pop the hood, unplug the sensor, and put a closed-end 22 mm wrench on it.  Right O!  Beer will stay cold through the entire job.







#[email protected]#$)(#*@$&amp;*(&amp;#*($&amp;%*(@#)!)(#&amp;#($)(@#&amp;#%#@_$&amp;_)[email protected]!!!!!!  Damn sensor came out and stripped every f'ing thread on the way out.  F me.  Maybe I can tap the mangled remains of it so I can put the new one in (?).  Off to O'Reilly's I go!






#(*$#%_)*$%*)&amp;@!)(@^%)(&amp;*$)%*_)@^!&amp;^)@&amp;%*$*(!!!!!  Damn tap won't do sh*t to the bung.  In fact, I'm starting to dull the first threads of the tap.  Guess I'll call the shop in the morning, but in the meantime I'll clean up the ravaged hole so I can put the old sensor in there and tie wire it in place (+1 wire twister plier experience).






WTF do you mean you can't fix it?  It's a stainless manifold, not cast iron.  Wait, so you can't replace the bung?  But if you could, it would cost how much?  F that.  That's about as much as a new exhaust manifold.  If I'm spending anywhere near that, I'm at least going to get some new tools.






Helicoil kit and new drill bit it is.  Going for broke on this fix.  Last option is a new exhaust manifold that incorporates two cats for all the money.  ldman:


----------



## Road Guy

not sure if its the same but on an old jeep I once had there was a special tool for removing the 02 sensor so you don't strip the wires or something?


----------



## Master slacker

I got that tool (long socket with a slot in it), but it was unnecessary because I have easy access to the sensor nut and the wiring slid right through the box end.  Should've been as easy as 1, 2, 3... but no...


----------



## Supe

Ship it to me and I'll weld in a new bung for free!


----------



## Master slacker

Ended up doing the work last weekend.  Took my sweet ass time because I didn't want to screw anything up.  Had my Tap Magic, drill bit, and Heli Coil set.  After drilling the bad threads out, I thought "maybe I can screw the O2 into the good threads that are left".  Well, it screwed in... only half a thread, though.  Damn.  Guess I'm doing the whole shebang.  Drilled it all out, tapped it, installed helicoil, and O2 sensor.  Wasn't all that bad in the end, just nerve wracking.  Plenty of smoke from the Tap Magic getting into the exhaust, but that was the problem of the person driving behind me.


----------



## leggo PE

While up in Tahoe this weekend, I noticed something that was neon yellow in color was leaking out of the bottom of my car. In a cursory Google search, I found that this could be because the exhaust pipe was in contact with snow (yes, it definitely was). The blog I saw explained that it is common for exhaust pipes to be made of galvanized steel using zinc to inhibit rust, but when the zinc comes into contact with salt and water (i.e. compacted snow with road salt mixed in), a chemical reaction happens that creates neon yellow crystals.

Has anyone experienced this before? Is it anything I should get checked out at the shop?


----------



## Road Guy

Have never seen such a thing and I feel I spend an above average amount of the time in the snow- did you get a pic? Was it leaking out of your exhaust or from somewhere else under the body- definitely seems odd?


----------



## Supe

I've never seen a galvanized exhaust.  Aluminized exhausts are common, though.

Which end of the car is it leaking from?  Neon yellow is typically a coolant leak.


----------



## Master slacker

Don't eat the yellow snow


----------



## jeb6294

Somebody pee-ed on your car.


----------



## leggo PE

I got some more info from my fiance. Apparently he and our friend identified and confirmed that the leak was coming from the exhaust pipe, and even saw a yellow crystal attached to the exhaust pipe itself. And I haven't seen any leakage like this under the car where it is parked in the garage at home. Granted, it probably wouldn't be as easy to see on dirty concrete than it is on white snow.

No picture...

Would it be possible for coolant to leak through the exhaust?


----------



## leggo PE

> 33 minutes ago, jeb6294 said:
> 
> Somebody pee-ed on your car.



Whomever it was must have been severely dehydrated and also have ingested some artificial food coloring, because this yellow was no pee yellow!


----------



## Supe

leggo PE said:


> I got some more info from my fiance. Apparently he and our friend identified and confirmed that the leak was coming from the exhaust pipe, and even saw a yellow crystal attached to the exhaust pipe itself. And I haven't seen any leakage like this under the car where it is parked in the garage at home. Granted, it probably wouldn't be as easy to see on dirty concrete than it is on white snow.
> 
> No picture...
> 
> Would it be possible for coolant to leak through the exhaust?


If you had a blown head gasket, yes.  It would also be strange to have a leak coming through the exhaust pipe.  However, exhaust pipes are great collectors of fluids leaking from other areas.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Several of you have already seen it but I figured I would post the progress pictures here as well.  Status as of Saturday afternoon:





































The good news is that the only big thing left is to fix an oil leak.  The bad news is that in order to fix the leak, I had to do this:











With a little luck, I'll have it back together Saturday afternoon.


----------



## Supe

Where was the leak - front of the pan?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> Where was the leak - front of the pan?


Yep.  Thought I could drop the pan without splitting the tractor but just not enough clearance.  It's the typical two steps forward, one step back.  At least it was a lot easier splitting it without 50 years of rust and 2 inches of grease covering the bolts.


----------



## MA_PE

That's a PITA.  It looks great.  I hope it goes back together easily.  Are those fuel lines crossing the break point?  I'd worry about bending/cracking those lines because I'm a klutz.


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> That's a PITA.  It looks great.  I hope it goes back together easily.  Are those fuel lines crossing the break point?  I'd worry about bending/cracking those lines because I'm a klutz.


Those lines are for the power steering.  It's completely hydraulic.  The power steering pump is bolted to the frame and the reservoir is mounted ahead of the radiator.


----------



## Master slacker

All you need now is a turbo and some NAAAAAAWS


----------



## Flyer_PE

Scope creep:






Turns out that it wasn't the front of the oil pan.  The timing case cover sprung a leak and the oil trail was hiding behind the alternator.  Even with the use of dye and a black light, it wasn't easy to track down.

According to UPS, the new gasket should be here tomorrow and it should be able to start putting it back together Sunday.


----------



## MA_PE

things are never easy.  At least you have that nice shop to work in.


----------



## Flyer_PE

If my buddy didn't offer up the shop for this, it would still be deteriorating in my garage.  I'm just glad I found the leak before I put things back together enough to run it again.  I enjoy working on this thing but I'd like to have it done-done.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah that set up is sweet!  If I ever felt I was in a forever home would love to add one of those

For us poor garage mechanics, I have a really old sears bottle jack I use to get the jeep up, even a 3 TON hydraulic floor jack doesn't lift the front axle up enough. but anyways it stopped working, do you have to add oil to these things. There is a port that looks like oil goes in &amp; what type? 

This was actually something I got out of my grandfathers garage when he did in 1996 so maybe its just done?


----------



## envirotex

Flyer_PE said:


> Several of you have already seen it but I figured I would post the progress pictures here as well.  Status as of Saturday afternoon:
> 
> With a little luck, I'll have it back together Saturday afternoon.


Whose fastback?  

Also...looking good!


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> yeah that set up is sweet!  If I ever felt I was in a forever home would love to add one of those
> 
> For us poor garage mechanics, I have a really old sears bottle jack I use to get the jeep up, even a 3 TON hydraulic floor jack doesn't lift the front axle up enough. but anyways it stopped working, do you have to add oil to these things. There is a port that looks like oil goes in &amp; what type?
> 
> This was actually something I got out of my grandfathers garage when he did in 1996 so maybe its just done?


It's just standard hydraulic oil.  I used some mil-spec hydraulic oil I had leftover from my aircraft owner days.  I'm pretty sure any car parts place will have something labelled Hydraulic &amp; Jack oil or similar.


----------



## Road Guy

ok thanks, hadn't looked yet, but is that a common issue (if it aint got no oil it wont work) - hate to get rid of it cause it was my grand dads (&amp; he was cool)....


----------



## Flyer_PE

envirotex said:


> Whose fastback?
> 
> Also...looking good!


The Mustang belongs to another friend of the shop owner.  I'm on the hook for the electrical in that one.  It's running a fuel injected 4.6 liter with a Ford Racing module and a digital gauge package.  None of which was standard equipment back in '65.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> ok thanks, hadn't looked yet, but is that a common issue (if it aint got no oil it wont work) - hate to get rid of it cause it was my grand dads (&amp; he was cool)....


The only one I had go bad was a seal issue and it was bleeding fluid all over the floor.  It's not uncommon to have to add a little every so often.  As long as it's not leaving a puddle, I'd add fluid and keep using it.


----------



## envirotex

Flyer_PE said:


> The Mustang belongs to another friend of the shop owner.  I'm on the hook for the electrical in that one.  It's running a fuel injected 4.6 liter with a Ford Racing module and a digital gauge package.  None of which was standard equipment back in '65.


Nice.  We haven't even started thinking about the electrical in ours...The chassis and the 5.0 engine are currently in two different buildings...

Post pics here as you go along!  Need you to go first!


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> The only one I had go bad was a seal issue and it was bleeding fluid all over the floor.  It's not uncommon to have to add a little every so often.  As long as it's not leaving a puddle, I'd add fluid and keep using it.


of course if it's leaking "a little" it's not stable.  Use it to lift and then block it up with something so the jack doesn't creep down on you while you're under the vehicle.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah i always use jack stands -

I have to rotate the tires on the jeep this weekend, keep forgetting to make an appointment to have it done, but rotating in the 5th tire on the back makes it pretty easy (with a helper / teenager)


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> of course if it's leaking "a little" it's not stable.  Use it to lift and then block it up with something so the jack doesn't creep down on you while you're under the vehicle.


I NEVER do anything under a car that's being held up by hydraulics alone.  It's one of those things that was drilled into me at a very young age.


----------



## Supe

Speaking of scope creep, this weekend was a shit-show with the racecar.  

Nobody makes a good long water pump pulley setup for the combination I'm running.  I wanted to upgrade my water pump anyway to the one designed for this motor (it has extra ports for center-block cooling and scavenge lines that pull water from between the center exhaust ports), so drove up to Mooresville to pick one up from the place that builds them for various NASCAR teams.  

Sure enough, I go to install it and thunk... hits the timing cover.  By like, a LOT.  About 3/8 of an inch or so.  WTF?  So I look a little closer and notice how close the timing cover is to the balancer.  Pull the balancer and timing cover, and sure enough... motor has a Jesel belt drive on it!  I should have expected it, but never confirmed.  Of course since it's of unknown age, I had to order a replacement belt at $110, and that gets added to the list of things to replace every 2 years.  It also means that I get to machine spacers for the alternator and dry sump pump, and to buy a spacer for the crank pulley.  

The engine is also so tall, that I have to fab a custom air cleaner housing just to be able to barely see where I'm going (cardboard mock-up in place).  REALLY wish I had a sheet metal shear for that one.

(The timing belt pic also shows the NASCAR intake manifold modified for fuel injection.  The guy who did the conversion for me did IMMACULATE work.)


----------



## Flyer_PE

^That engine looks awesome.

I didn't fare much better this weekend.  Getting the front and rear pan seals into place isn't all that easy with the engine upside down on a stand.  It's a real PITA when it's upright and bolted to the rest of the tractor.  Ruined one of the seals in the attempt so it was time to step back, let my blood pressure return to normal, and order some parts.


----------



## Road Guy

went and checked out some used car lots at dealers yesterday (since they are closed on Sundays and you can "look"), have to get the kids squared away with a vehicle. made the mistake of looking at the new cars, Holy Shit very depressing, we were at a jeep/dodge place and not much under $40K these days (for a 2018)


----------



## Flyer_PE

Well, it's re-assembled, leak-free for likely the first time since around 1972, and back home.  Pictures with the sun shining on it Saturday:

















And I'm starting to line up the next project:











1991 MR2 Turbo.  I took delivery of this car in May of 1990. I hauled it up to the shop Saturday to make sure it's as solid underneath as I thought it should be.  The underside of the car looks damn near new.  It's only been in snow once (bad forecast and got caught trying to get in one last drive before Winter) and has been garaged for all but 1 of the 29 years I've owned it.  I'm planning to dial it up to 11.


----------



## jperry1221

Parents bought a new tractor and I got this old diesel from them with less than 1000 hours on it.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Looks like an interesting little beast.  The only foreign tractor I have messed with is my BIL’s Kubota.


----------



## Supe

I'm more jealous of that house/piece of property than I am the tractor!


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> I'm more jealous of that house/piece of property than I am the tractor!


He has a really nice set-up.  He may have to relocate for work and he wants me to buy the place.  My problem is that my next move will be South.  I want to build something similar somewhere warmer and a little more tax-payer friendly than IL.


----------



## Ramnares P.E.

Took my Ford Explorer in because the steering has been very loose/wobbly (yes that is the technical engineering term).  Diagnosed as an excessively worn steering column bolt.  Not sure which since there's an upper and lower.  I'm going to ask the dealer to save the bolt and try to recoup costs from Ford.  At 35k miles there's absolutely no reason in my mind that bolt should be worn.

Anyone been through this with Ford or other manufacturer and have tips on where to start?


----------



## Ranger1316

I dealt with the warranty process when I had CVT issues with my 2012 Focus. The main thing is to stay on top of the dealership and make sure you understand what they explain to you.

Also, don't be afraid to go to another dealership if you feel your current one isn't trying to work with you.

With that said, I don't see them giving you too much of a hard time. It's still fairly new I'm assuming and it would be hard to pin any responsibility on you. It's even easier if it's still under the 3 yr/36k mile warranty.


----------



## jperry1221

Supe said:


> I'm more jealous of that house/piece of property than I am the tractor!


That's actually my neighbor's new house. We are in the process of building our on our land.


----------



## jperry1221

Flyer_PE said:


> He has a really nice set-up.  He may have to relocate for work and he wants me to buy the place.  My problem is that my next move will be South.  I want to build something similar somewhere warmer and a little more tax-payer friendly than IL.


I've always lived in southern Louisiana.  It's hot and humid, but we're used to it.  I hope to have our house built by the end of the year.


----------



## Master slacker

^^^ werd.  I just can't stand the traffic.


----------



## JayKay PE

Guys.  Serious question (since I never do car stuff): how hard is it to replace an engine filter/cabin filter on a Corolla?  The dealership tried to get me to do it today for $106+ and I felt like that was ridiculously high?  I looked at some videos, but the guys who do that stuff on youtube know what they're doing and thus it always looks easy...I'm thinking of maybe attempting the replacement of the filters this weekend?


----------



## Road Guy

should be really simple, hardest part may be to find it - that's one of those things they like to get you to do because its easy money for them -

Did they pull the old one out and say wow look how dirty this is?  I imagine its a $20 part?


----------



## JayKay PE

Ah, okay, I kinda figured it was something like easy money and they were hoping I'd just agree since it was a Tuesday morning.

They didn't pull them out in front of me, per se, this is the second time I've had it mentioned to get changed (which means it's a real thing, as opposed to when they're usually mentioning things to be fixed that cost $$$$).  I think the parts are pretty cheap.  I found each filter hovering around $20/each, but I want to confirm those are the real filters/I might see if I can pop open my car to find the filters this weekend.


----------



## kevo_55

^^ Youtube OP.


----------



## Master slacker

JayKay0914 said:


> Guys.  Serious question (since I never do car stuff): how hard is it to replace an engine filter/cabin filter on a Corolla?


I have a 'rolla.  These two jobs are thuper thimple!


----------



## JayKay PE

Thanks guys!  I'm going to order the parts and see if I can attempt it without anyone's help!  I want to learn more car stuff, and this will be the super, super, tiny, small, step I'm taking towards it.


----------



## MA_PE

JayKay0914 said:


> Guys.  Serious question (since I never do car stuff): how hard is it to replace an engine filter/cabin filter on a Corolla?  The dealership tried to get me to do it today for $106+ and I felt like that was ridiculously high?  I looked at some videos, but the guys who do that stuff on youtube know what they're doing and thus it always looks easy...I'm thinking of maybe attempting the replacement of the filters this weekend?


It's funny you mention that.  I'm taking my 2016 Elantra in for service.  I used to do a lot of my own stuff but as I get older (read lazier) I pay people to do it.  The only things that says "replace" instead of "inspect" for the 15,000 mile service is the oil/filter and the cabin filter.  I had the oil changed at the tire dealer when they mounted my snow tires and figured I'd have the dealer do the recommended service tomorrow when I take them off.  I just youtubed the cabin filter on my car and it's literally a 5 minute job that doesn't require any tools.  Same as the air filter.  I'm not going to have the dealer do it.  I suspect a newer corolla will be just as easy.  @JayKay0914you can do it piece o' cake.


----------



## Ranger1316

Engine air filter is always crazy easy: Pop off the cover, remove old, put in new, replace cover.

Cabin air filters are harder to get to but still good to do yourself. Just make sure the flow arrow is pointed the right way lol.


----------



## Ramnares P.E.

What a crap week for cars.  First the issues with my Ford Explorer then yesterday while on the phone with my wife she has the front, driver side tire blow out on her, most likely due to some debris from an accident.  Ended up scrambling to replace that late yesterday.  Eff this week.


----------



## Road Guy

this sucks! hope it doesn't come in 3's!

We cosigned on a 08 Rav4 last weekend for the 19 year old - its that "champagne" color but it was one of the few V6, 4WD ones around with less than 60K miles.  He is back at school for a month so I am driving it around a bit, peppy little car, but I feel at 6'2" I am about 2" to tall for it....


----------



## JayKay PE

Surprisingly, I have a Corolla and my brother (who is 6'3" and 250-lbs) fits really well in it.  Maybe it's the bucket seats combined with a moon roof?  I always thought Rav4s were a little bigger?


----------



## Road Guy

Its like the seat needs to be able to move back a few inches - it doesn't feel bad for an hour drive but after that my legs need to be able to extend all the way to stretch-


----------



## MA_PE

MA_PE said:


> It's funny you mention that.  I'm taking my 2016 Elantra in for service.  I used to do a lot of my own stuff but as I get older (read lazier) I pay people to do it.  The only things that says "replace" instead of "inspect" for the 15,000 mile service is the oil/filter and the cabin filter.  I had the oil changed at the tire dealer when they mounted my snow tires and figured I'd have the dealer do the recommended service tomorrow when I take them off.  I just youtubed the cabin filter on my car and it's literally a 5 minute job that doesn't require any tools.  Same as the air filter.  I'm not going to have the dealer do it.  I suspect a newer corolla will be just as easy.  @JayKay0914you can do it piece o' cake.


@JayKay0914just another shout out for the timely post regarding the filter replacement question.  you prompted me to not be lazy and take a look at it.  Had oil changed at dealer and for their "multi-point inspection" the two things needing "immediate attention" were the air filter and the cabin filter.  I expected as much as recommended maintenance said to replace.  There charge for the service was $22 for air filter and $77 for cabin filter , so $100.  I told them not to bother.  I was having some difficulty locating the exact part numbers so I just went out and physically checked them by removing the filters and reading the numbers off the parts (or in other words physically doing the work involved to change them).  Literally less than 10 minutes with no tools.  Ordered filters on Amazon.  OEM Hyundai air filter $12.88, aftermarket cheapo cabin filter $11.78 with tax and free shipping $25.40 for both and will be delivered on Friday.  I'm pretty stoked.

Not sure how they justify the cost of the cabin filter.  It's kind of a PITA to access as it's behind the glove box and you need to do it by feel instead of looking directly but it's still a 5-10 minute job at best and the filter is cheap.  Anyway, thanks for the kick to get me off my a$$.


----------



## JayKay PE

@Road Guy Ah!  I def understand!  Yeah, the corolla seats go back pretty far, and since it can be shifted up/down and angled, he has enough space to spread his legs and still have my purse next to him.

@MA_PEYay!  Timely reminder for the win!  I ordered mine online, going off of the Amazon/Autozone suggestions for what fits.  I'm lucky because most things that fit one Toyota fit another, so I'm like 99% sure what I ordered will be fine/won't be too difficult to install?  The cabin filter is the one I know I can install!  Just pop off the glove box and for Toyota's it's right there/no real removal needed.  I'm worried about the air filter just because...well.  It requires going under the hood.  And last time I talked about going under the hood I got in my accident, lol.  XD


----------



## MA_PE

JayKay0914 said:


> @Road Guy Ah!  I def understand!  Yeah, the corolla seats go back pretty far, and since it can be shifted up/down and angled, he has enough space to spread his legs and still have my purse next to him.
> 
> @MA_PEYay!  Timely reminder for the win!  I ordered mine online, going off of the Amazon/Autozone suggestions for what fits.  I'm lucky because most things that fit one Toyota fit another, so I'm like 99% sure what I ordered will be fine/won't be too difficult to install?  The cabin filter is the one I know I can install!  Just pop off the glove box and for Toyota's it's right there/no real removal needed.  I'm worried about the air filter just because...well.  It requires going under the hood.  And last time I talked about going under the hood I got in my accident, lol.  XD


@JayKay0914 air filter is easier than the cabin filter as it's right on top and easily accessible.  I don't want to read about any accidents.


----------



## FLBuff PE

MA_PE said:


> @JayKay0914 air filter is easier than the cabin filter as it's right on top and easily accessible.  I don't want to read about any *accidents*.


This one time, @DVINNY wen to Big Lots...


----------



## jeb6294

On the diesel, you get the usual spiel about the air filter at oil changes, but you also get the fuel filter every 15,000 miles.  Big deal to make sure you've got clean fuel with no water in it in a diesel...some nonsense about having 16:1 compression and 30,000psi of fuel pressure.

They'll hit you up for a few hundred $$$ for new fuel filters, I think it's usually about $150 for the parts and about the same for labor.  There are two that come as a set that you can get for about $50 online, and that's for genuine Motorcraft, not some Chinese knockoff.  One is mounted underneath on the frame and the other is under the hood.  Both are easy to get to and changing them out takes, max, 30 minutes for both if you're moving at a leisurely pace.  For a grease monkey who already has the truck in the air and the hood open for an oil change, it'd probably be an extra 10 minutes.


----------



## Road Guy

looking for some shade tree advice..

I was trying to change the oil &amp; filer on the wifes highlander- it has a canister oil filter that uses a special tool (below) - the tool attaches to a 27 MM socket via 1/2" socket drive, I tried using a breaker bar ( steel pipe) and cant get this thing to budge.. tried "gently" hitting it with a block of wood and rubber mallet, penetrating oil and nothing will make this thing budge..




I haven't tried an impact gun yet? Is that my only alternative you think?  Last time I changed the oil I didn't have this special tool so I didn't get the filter, and couldn't get it off this last time, I am wondering just how long this damn thing has been on? My wife used to take it to a small shop that we used to trust until about  a year ago when I just lost faith in them, which makes me wonder if they ever took the thing off either??


----------



## Supe

How big a cheater bar did you try?  I have had a few that took SIGNIFICANT force to remove, usually because whoever installed did not lube the top of the gasket prior to install so it sticks to the block.  You should be OK with an impact so long as the finger grooves don't round over.  Once you get to that point, you're going to be driving a long screwdriver/punch through the filter housing.


----------



## Road Guy

It was probably 18 IN? The only steel pipe I had laying around.  its in a horrible place to get leverage on it.

I hate to give Chrysler props, but the one on the jeep is on the top of the engine and comes of very easily - this thing is F'd up!

I just don't want to Fuck up where it attaches to the engine block


----------



## Supe

You won't.  If its like all the other cartridge filter types I've seen, the housing is plastic, the block is (at least) aluminum.


----------



## Master slacker

I learned something the first time I changed the filter in my 'rolla.  The plastic housing has "gussets" all the way around the base of it where it meets the block.  These "gussets" are actually little tabs to keep the damned thing from unscrewing as they hit a metal arm on the block itself if it begins to unscrew.  Before I noticed the arm, I thought I was going to break the plastic housing.  Once I pulled the arm away, I could easily unscrew it.  YMMV


----------



## Road Guy

hmm I will look and see if there is something holding it back - I hadn't looked before - didn't you also have a rav4? did it have the same mechanism?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Seems like almost any DIY car project has been recorded by somebody:

https://youtu.be/9eLmHjLjiWc


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah if only it came off that easy on mine..

Watched several of these on stuck
Ones and seems the only method that worked to get them off was hitting with a block of wood and using an impact gun...

I think I sold mine when I moved. But it’s crazy I’ve done my own oil changes since 1989 and have never not been able to get one off.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I've had a couple that I had to drive a screwdriver through to get enough torque to turn them.  Not really a viable option for a canister type though.


----------



## Road Guy

Guess I can order a new canister and then just take it off with a cut off tool if I have to?


----------



## Supe

I'm 99% sure an impact will get it off without resorting to a cutoff tool.


----------



## Ranger1316

Supe said:


> I'm 99% sure an impact will get it off without resorting to a cutoff tool.


Definitely this. Sounds like it's just been on there forever so if an impact doesn't do it, then resort to hacking and hoping.


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> hmm I will look and see if there is something holding it back - I hadn't looked before - didn't you also have a rav4? did it have the same mechanism?


Wifey has the Rav4, but it's got a classic spin-on filter.  Awesome car


----------



## JayKay PE

Guys.  Another n00b vehicle owner question.

Corolla 2016.  47k miles.  Getting yearly NYS inspection.  Guys said that one of my struts was leaking and that I should replace all 4 of them.  Quoted me $675+tax for replacement of all 4.  I haven't really felt anything while driving, but I don't know if I should go for this?  Does the price seem reasonable?

PLEASE HELP.  My dad will tell me to get it done at a dealership, which costs so much more!  T_T


----------



## Master slacker

I'm at 150k on my '09 'rolla - original struts.  Wife's '02 Rav has 180k - struts replaced at 170k.  

At 47k, I'd doubt your struts are an issue.  Look under the dust boot of your struts to see if you really have any leaks if you're concerned.  Personally, I'd save my $675 and keep rollin'.


----------



## Supe

I will say this - when it comes to shocks, struts, and suspension wear and tear, where you drive has a HUGE influence.  My sister lives in the DC area, and her suspension was beat to shit at &lt; 60K miles, whereas I could triple that where I live in NC.  

That said, if you are not hearing or feeling any clunking and the car doesn't feel "floaty", you're not hurting anything by waiting.  An easy test is to push on the 4 corners of the car one at a time.  If the car settles completely in 2 bounces or less, your struts are probably fine.  If it bounces more than twice before settling, they are probably worn or on their way there.


----------



## JayKay PE

Thanks for the info!  Yeah, I drive around 100-miles a day on crappy Long Island/NY roads that do have a ton of potholes, but it's not feeling clunky and my car doesn't seem to be shifting a lot (well, more than usual, since it's a sport model it does tend to 'feel' the road a little bit more than like, my mom's Avalon tank).  I'm getting my 50k oil change/maintenance in a few months.  If someone who is doing that says your struts are wonky, then I'll think about it more.  Always wait until 2 guys are like "somethings off".  Worse comes to worse, I can go to this really good auto guy nearby who often takes looks at things like this.

Will def do the 'bounce test' this weekend.  

...also.  @Master slacker...how do I check under my dust boot of my strut?  Do I need to do anything dramatic?  Again, I am a total car idiot and I'm always scared of messing something up.


----------



## Master slacker

The dust boot is just some rubber bellows inside the spring.  Depending on their condition, you may not even have to lift them up or smush them down.  Mine are split so I have easy visuals.  My wife's, before the change out, were mostly gone.  Just don't act like the Hulk and you can get dirty doing a decent visual.


----------



## Supe

If you don't see oil dripping out of the dust boot without even moving it, it's probably not even leaking.


----------



## JayKay PE

Yeah; I got it back and pushed on my corners and my car barely moved/bounced even when I went to town.  It's a Corolla, so it's not heavy at all, so I am assuming my struts are okay for now.  If I bring it in at 50k and someone else mentions it, then I'll take it to my 'real' guy and have him take a look.  Nice, old school, auto shop guy that has amazing reviews and is really helpful.

Also: opinions on aftermarket remote starters?  Yay or nay?


----------



## akwooly

in AK i love my remote start. the aftermarket ones have more range than the factory remote starts.


----------



## Ranger1316

akwooly said:


> in AK i love my remote start. the aftermarket ones have more range than the factory remote starts.


Not really needed in Florida

But akwooly is right, you can find quality aftermarket ones. Just make sure you have a reputable shop install it with a warranty if you don't put it in yourself.


----------



## Supe

They work fine.  A reputable car stereo installer will usually do a better job of putting one in than an auto repair place.


----------



## jeb6294

Yay...I get to do brakes.  Again.

Took the minivan in for service the other day. When we got it, new Toyotas were still coming with lifetime oil changes, so it goes to the dealer.  Guy came out with their usual line about all the things that need fixed besides the free oil change...air filter, cabin filter, brakes, etc...told him to give me my free oil and nothing else.  Stopped at Wally World on the way home and got new filters and ordered brakes and rotors at Advance cause I had a 25% coupon.

Cabin filter needed changed.  Air filter looked like it was barely used.  Makes me wonder if they even look at them or if they tell everyone to see who's dumb enough to pay $90 for a new air filter.  Hoping the weather is good enough to do the brakes this weekend.  They may actually need to be replaced because they said they were starting to get a little low when I took it to a different place for tires a while ago.


----------



## User1

jeb6294 said:


> Yay...I get to do brakes.  Again.
> 
> Took the minivan in for service the other day. When we got it, new Toyotas were still coming with lifetime oil changes, so it goes to the dealer.  Guy came out with their usual line about all the things that need fixed besides the free oil change...air filter, cabin filter, brakes, etc...told him to give me my free oil and nothing else.  Stopped at Wally World on the way home and got new filters and ordered brakes and rotors at Advance cause I had a 25% coupon.﻿
> 
> Cabin filter needed changed.  Air filter looked like it was barely used.  Makes me wonder if they even look at t﻿hem or if they tell everyone to see who's dumb enough to pay $90 for a new air filter.  Hoping the weather is good enough to do the brakes this weekend.  They may actually need to be replaced because they said they were starting to get a little low when I took it to a different place for tires a while ago﻿.﻿﻿﻿


yeah i stopped going to the dealer for this reason. I had my 30k mile tune up early which was supposed to come with all the filters etc. then i went in for an oil change and they told me my x and x and x were due. i was like do you even look at them? do you even look at my vehicle history? how can you tell me my stuff is due when it's clearly and visibly and documentatedly not... then i went to the oil change place the next time i was due and he's like bro your cabin filter.... it was growing mold. i like that they show me the status. and they're way faster.


----------



## jeb6294

The only reason we still go is because oil changes are free.  I can't even do it myself for that... 

They wanted $89.95 for the air &amp; cabin filters.  I bought new ones for $40 and even sprung for the nicer cabin filter.  Changing the air filter on a Sienna takes, literally, 30 seconds.  It honesty took me longer to get the hood open than it did to change the filter.  The cabin filter took me about 5 minutes...and that includes the time it took to look it up on YouTube to remember how to do it.


----------



## Road Guy

Most people are just so inept / not mechanically inclined anymore / since you cant change your oil or air filter with an APP then id say 80% of the US pays someone to do these.

 

When I was picking up my jeep last fall from its tranny fiasco, I overhead a guy selling windshield wipers install for like only $66 bucks “installed” or something and I just thought, good grief people!

I still change the oil on 4 vehicles (with help from kids who drive them) and I think I barely even  break even that oil is so expensive I am not really saving money, as compared to paying someone to do it, I am just saving the inconvenience of going to one of these jiffy lubes or dropping it off someplace and dealing with being hassled for a cabin filter or some other BS..


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Went in to the shop several years ago with Mrs Dex to have her Jeep serviced and a tech tried to do the same routine with her (not realizing I was also there). Guy went so far as to bring in a dirty filter to show us, except it wasn't even the right filter for our car (she had upgraded to a K&amp;N cone filter). We countered by asking if he even changed the oil since he obviously didn't go under the hood...


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> ... tranny fiasco...


That's Colorado...

:bag:


----------



## Road Guy

Sometimes you have to take your Tranny out...


----------



## Ranger1316

jeb6294 said:


> The only reason we still go is because oil changes are free.  I can't even do it myself for that...
> 
> They wanted $89.95 for the air &amp; cabin filters.  I bought new ones for $40 and even sprung for the nicer cabin filter.  Changing the air filter on a Sienna takes, literally, 30 seconds.  It honesty took me longer to get the hood open than it did to change the filter.  The cabin filter took me about 5 minutes...and that includes the time it took to look it up on YouTube to remember how to do it.


I just did this on my Impala and the wife's Encore. Went with ACDelco for both on the Encore but ended up with an ACDelco air filter and Fram cabin air filter on the Impala.

The Fram cabin air filter was a few dollars cheaper and I was curious if the baking soda/Febreze actually did anything. Nothing to write home about but the car does smell better lol.


----------



## jeb6294

Took a little longer than the air/cabin filters, but the brakes have been replaced on the Sienna.

Wasn't too terrible aside from the weather.  I hadn't planned to do it Sat. because it was supposed to rain all day, but then when the rain never came, that meant we had to go to my son's baseball game.  Apparently the rain we were supposed to get showed up on Sun. instead.  I was just finishing up the rear when it started.  Gave me an excuse to take a break for a couple hours before doing the fronts.

In between, took the time to get 3 racks of ribs on the smoker for dinner.  Came out great with just a hint of brake cleaner for some extra kick.


----------



## Road Guy

I actually enjoy changing the brakes on my vehicles, the only hard part on the jeep is manhandling the 33" tires -when I  did my wife's highlander last month, I had it down to just about an hour, one day if I ever end up in a "forever home" would definitely pay for a garage lift!


----------



## jeb6294

Yeah, much easier than when I had to do the front brakes on the F350.  The Sienna has central jack points in addition to the usual pinch welds so I was able to do the backs at once and then the fronts at once.


----------



## snickerd3

yeah for new cars...two potential recalls already.  THey don't even now which cars got the faulty pieces.  need to schedule a 30 minute appt so they can inspect the timing belt and engine.  THere was a batch of bad teeth on the timing belts that was damaging the engine.  The other one is a airbag issue like most manufacturers have having issues with.


----------



## Road Guy

trying to find a cheap way to fix my kids "fathers day present" it looks like I can get the bumper and the part between the bumper and the grill on amazon! (using his money) - I am thinking about just getting a black bumper and then the other damaged part that is green comes primed and I was just going to plasti-dip spray paint that black to match?

This is still my preferred family ski wagon so I don't want it too look too Jankey - but I don't want to put more than $300 bucks of his money into it either..


----------



## Master slacker

Buff it out.


----------



## MA_PE

Keep it.  I think it makes it look tough.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

MA_PE said:


> Keep it.  I think it makes it look tough.


Serves as a warning that you don't care if you have to go through them...


----------



## Road Guy

It just sort of clashes with my neighbors Tesla?

And I want the kid to spend some money and elbow grease on the repair most of all..


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> It just sort of clashes with my neighbors Tesla?
> 
> And I want the kid to spend some money and elbow grease on the repair most of all..


You mean speedbump. If he hits it, avoid the battery pack of at all possible. 

As for the repairs, make him look for the parts at a pick n pull (junk yard) and only order online (amazon) as a last resort. 

http://www.usedautopartsdealers.com/ can help locate parts at local yards (but the hunt in person can be half the fun).

Not only will he learn how to fix the part locally, he'll get some sweat equity into the project. 

There used to be a good yard between Denver and Fort Collins on the frontage road. I don't recall if it was there when i was on Colorado last or not. They are disappearing these days.


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> It just sort of clashes with my neighbors Tesla?


Make it match...


----------



## jeb6294

Got son's B-day present yesterday.  Turned 12 on Saturday, but he was at his mom's this weekend so he'll get it when he's here on Wednesday.  Although, after playing around on it for a while yesterday, I'm starting to think he may just need an iTunes gift card or something.

This isn't his, but it's the same thing except the color (Army green with a star on the "tank") and the one I got has some use on it.  Only issue when I got it was a broken brake lever so I couldn't play on it too much, but a new one should be here today courtesy of Amazon.


----------



## MA_PE

cool.  Does he have any clue?  What a great b-day gift.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> trying to find a cheap way to fix my kids "fathers day present" it looks like I can get the bumper and the part between the bumper and the grill on amazon! (using his money) - I am thinking about just getting a black bumper and then the other damaged part that is green comes primed and I was just going to plasti-dip spray paint that black to match?
> 
> This is still my preferred family ski wagon so I don't want it too look too Jankey - but I don't want to put more than $300 bucks of his money into it either..


I think that's probably &gt; $300...


----------



## Road Guy

Bly- Ive dug through a few Denver junkyard when I was trying to find a wiring harness for the old jeep last summer and found they are not any cheaper than just buying - but they are good if you are trying to find something that isn't sold "online" or something not made anymore - 

So far the bumper and the piece above it was $142 on Amazon "Prime" - Curious to see if I need to find any bolts or other items once we get into it..


----------



## Ranger1316

Road Guy said:


> Bly- Ive dug through a few Denver junkyard when I was trying to find a wiring harness for the old jeep last summer and found they are not any cheaper than just buying - but they are good if you are trying to find something that isn't sold "online" or something not made anymore -
> 
> So far the bumper and the piece above it was $142 on Amazon "Prime" - Curious to see if I need to find any bolts or other items once we get into it..


I learned this after my Dad needed a rear bumper for his Sierra. I went for the "middle of the road" price wise with a new one and it worked great.

 A lot of those new bumpers come with new hardware so maybe you can just unbolt from the frame and not have to mess with the old bumper at all.


----------



## Dexman PE PMP

Road Guy said:


> Bly- Ive dug through a few Denver junkyard when I was trying to find a wiring harness for the old jeep last summer and found they are not any cheaper than just buying - but they are good if you are trying to find something that isn't sold "online" or something not made anymore -
> 
> So far the bumper and the piece above it was $142 on Amazon "Prime" - Curious to see if I need to find any bolts or other items once we get into it..


The other thing you have to verify is that there isn't anything else bent/broken. A dented bumper does a great job of masking bigger underlying issues like damaged impact attenuators, sensors, mounting brackets/clips/pins, and even frame damage.

When I replaced the front clip of my Camaro after a fender-bender, the only visible damage was a cracked license plate bracket and creased plastic bumper cover. It ended up being over $1500 damage once we got everything taken apart to see what was damaged.


----------



## jeb6294

MA_PE said:


> cool.  Does he have any clue?  What a great b-day gift.


He does not.

Got the new brake lever on yesterday and, of course, had to take a few laps around the neighborhood to make sure it was working.  Taking a spin in the back yard, on the other hand, was not the best idea.  It's still super muddy because we've been getting rain for about 3 straight months.  I dumped it and sprained my elbow....mini bike still runs fine though.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> the other damaged part that is green comes primed and I was just going to plasti-dip spray paint that black to match?


$20 for a can of Rustoleum roll-on truck bed lining is light years better than plastidip.


----------



## MA_PE

jeb6294 said:


> He does not.
> 
> Got the new brake lever on yesterday and, of course, had to take a few laps around the neighborhood to make sure it was working.  Taking a spin in the back yard, on the other hand, was not the best idea.  It's still super muddy because we've been getting rain for about 3 straight months.  I dumped it and sprained my elbow....mini bike still runs fine though.


 nice.  break it before your son even sees it.  :lmao:


----------



## Road Guy

Supe said:


> $20 for a can of Rustoleum roll-on truck bed lining is light years better than plastidip.


The upper part of the bumper came yesterday, its basically a black piece of plastic so I may just leave it. If I can get 2 years out of it for the youngest to finish high school its going on craigslist for $800 bucks (if it survives the next two years of my youngest kid)


----------



## jeb6294

I think he liked it.  I was a little worried that he'd be afraid of it...Jack's not the bravest kid...but he hopped on and took off around the neighborhood.  I did have the throttle screw turned in a few turns to keep the speed down a little bit.  Just need to get him a better helmet now.


----------



## MA_PE

cool.  He'll be the envy of all of his friends.  did you crank Born to Be Wild when you gave it to him?

Speaking of which, this year is the 50th anniversary of Easy Rider.  A local theater is going to show it on the big screen for $10 on Saturday.  I told my wife we might have to go.


----------



## jeb6294

Well, he made it a day and he was in the driveway asking me to unscrew the throttle limiter.  Picked the boys up from nanas house after work yesterday.  After I showed him how to start it and do the strap on the helmet, he took off and I didn't see him again until it started getting dark. This is the kid who would, literally, not leave his room all day if you let him between the laptop and the iPad so I'd say the "dirt bike", as he likes to call it, is a success..


----------



## Road Guy

Yep more damage.... looks like we will
Only be attaching 5 bolts instead of 6......


----------



## P-E

Our SUV has been in 5 accidents in the 19 months we’ve had it.

a. Rear ended by neighbors Mexican nanny in a snow storm

b. Friend backed into a right fender and door

c. Wife backed into a friend’s car. 

d. Hit and run: someone backed into same right fender

e. Tree fell on it.  

Which did the most and least damage?


----------



## Ranger1316

Road Guy said:


> Yep more damage.... looks like we will
> Only be attaching 5 bolts instead of 6......


That's a good excuse to get a good wrecking bar...


----------



## leggo PE

P-E said:


> Our SUV has been in 5 accidents in the 19 months we’ve had it.
> 
> a. Rear ended by neighbors Mexican nanny in a snow storm
> 
> b. Friend backed into a right fender and door
> 
> c. Wife backed into a friend’s car.
> 
> d. Hit and run: someone backed into same right fender
> 
> e. Tree fell on it.
> 
> Which did the most and least damage?


I'm guessing wife backing up into a friend's car was the least damage to your SUV (probably more damage to the friend's car).


----------



## P-E

leggo PE said:


> I'm guessing wife backing up into a friend's car was the least damage to your SUV (probably more damage to the friend's car).


Correct but minimal damage to either car.


----------



## Edgy Cheesy Graphite PE

P-E said:


> Our SUV has been in 5 accidents in the 19 months we’ve had it.
> 
> a. Rear ended by neighbors Mexican nanny in a snow storm
> 
> b. Friend backed into a right fender and door
> 
> c. Wife backed into a friend’s car.
> 
> d. Hit and run: someone backed into same right fender
> 
> e. Tree fell on it.
> 
> Which did the most and least damage?


Genuine question...
Why did you give the ethnicity of your neighbor's nanny, but not your friend, your wife, or the tree? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


----------



## P-E

jean15paul said:


> Genuine question...
> Why did you give the ethnicity of your neighbor's nanny, but not your friend, your wife, or the tree? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


From the south would have been more PC.  (less experience driving in the snow).  Btw wife isn’t white either if you need to know.


----------



## Road Guy

Hey I am from the South and I pretty much own Snow Driving out here


----------



## P-E

We were waiting for a car in font of us to take a left turn and she plowed into us.  She was going way too fast.  

The tree did very little damage unbelievably.  I’ll have to find that picture.


----------



## JayKay PE

Ugh.  I think I hit a man pothole a while ago and and my bumper got jostled/is not happy and it's getting worse (I might have mentioned this earlier in the thread/maybe not?).  I had taken it to a guy earlier this year and he said I should get a stiffener bracket from toyota, like $20, and that a majority of the repair would be taking off the front bumper and putting it back on (maybe $150-$200 in labor costs).  I didn't get it fixed at the time/didn't think it was worth it if it was just popping in the corner of my bumper near the hood...but now the whole edge is popping out, as well as the corner of the passenger side.  So I think I'm scooting over to that guy again, saying I'm an idiot, and seeing how long it'll take to be finished (I'm one of those people that I'll never get my air conditioner refreshed, but I like it when my exterior looks okay).

Just...don't need this right now if I'm potentially getting a new job that requires a multi-state move.


----------



## Supe

Have a picture?  Often there are these plastic push rivets with metal clips that can break or pop loose.  You can get them at the dealer and fix yourself in a few minutes.  There is zero reason that anyone should be paying $200 for a loose bumper cover.


----------



## JayKay PE

Apologies for the photo spam, but any help would be awesssssome.  I love this thread!  You guys have helped me so much, especially since this is my first 'real' new car, so I'm trying to keep it going as long as my last car (275k before it died).


----------



## Supe

This should look very familiar!

http://www.corollaforum.com/threads/help-corolla-loose-front-bumper-cover.4909/

I suspect you have the same issue.  When you hit something hard, those little serrated plastic rivets can shear off.  Once they do, the receiver clips usually come off eventually too.


----------



## JayKay PE

Ah!  Yes!  I saw that thread, but it doesn't exactly say how I can replace them/what I need to fix them?  It looks like they all told that person to go to the dealership to get the body panel clips.  I...just don't know where I'm replacing?  I don't want to get too few.  Also, other comments say go to the dealership and ask them to install new clips/install the bumper again.  But that is the thing that was going to cost the $100+

*Edit* As stated before, I am an idiot when it comes to cars, so I'm going to be freaking about this for the next two days.


----------



## Supe

The retainers literally slide over the bumper cover, and you just push in the plastic rivets.  You don't even need tools, though some will have a phillips head on them if they're stubborn to push in.  You can see in that thread if you look at the wheel arch where the scuff marks from the missing clips are.  If you get the part number from the dealership, you can usually get them in complete sets/extras on Amazon for like $10.


----------



## JayKay PE

Mmmmm, okay.  I'll try to hit up one of the dealerships this week and see if I can get a part number but I might just buy a variety set off of Amazon (around $10 for Toyota-only clips): https://www.amazon.com/50Pcs-Toyota-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B072MDX94N?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_18753092011  and then try to play around with it this weekend.

I'm hoping this works/I'll keep the thread updated if I accidentally blow up my car.


----------



## Supe

If you can blow up a car through a process that is the equivalent to pushing a thumb tack into a bulletin board, I will buy you a beer.


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; if it hasn't already been said just watch some youtube videos "inserting bumper retaining clips on 20XX Toyota / Etc" and it should help out -


----------



## JayKay PE

FYI, I did check under the wheel well (is that a term, or am I pulling that out of thin air) and I noticed all the clips were there, but I didn't pop my hood.  Are there any located inside the hood/behind the bumper near the grill/headlights?  Just curious since it seems like a lot of the troubles online were from them popping off near the wheels, and mine seem to all be there.

I also pushed really hard on my passenger side bumper, directly below the headlight, and heard something click.  So who knows?  Maybe I fixed it?  Idk.  I'll be able to check after I drive tonight if the passenger side is flying off or not!


----------



## Supe

There are usually several in the grill area and around the top of the headlights.  Looking at your photo, there's probably one about an inch below the headlight corner.  It may be accessible from the engine bay, or the inner fender/liner may need to be popped out.


----------



## JayKay PE

Awesome!  Won't be able to look at it tonight, since I don't have the clips/I have gym tonight/I have a proposal/I have an SMP due/I have--Way too much stuff going on, idk.  But I'm happy you mentioned there are a bunch inside!  I was looking at the parts list/the blow out of the grill area and I feel like since it's technically a couple parts/areas, I was missing some clips.  I'm actually excited to see if I can get this fixed on my own!


----------



## JayKay PE

@Supe you know how you said I couldn't blow up my car...well, I didn't blow it up, but my dad 'helped' by yanking on the bumper cover...and now I don't have a working horn and my bumper cover still isn't sticking.  Ha aha ha hsbfgvowrjsdnclmgrsdv/


----------



## Supe

JayKay0914 said:


> @Supe you know how you said I couldn't blow up my car...well, I didn't blow it up, but my dad 'helped' by yanking on the bumper cover...and now I don't have a working horn and my bumper cover still isn't sticking.  Ha aha ha hsbfgvowrjsdnclmgrsdv/


Odds are the bumper cover had the clips that hold the horn wires, which is typically two spade type connectors.  Should just be a matter of sliding them back on, provided you can find the horn and actually reach it.


----------



## Master slacker

Hopefully getting new tires on the 'rolla today.  Current tires are racing slicks without the traction and recently developed a nasty vibration when they get warm.  At least I hope it's the tires as basic troubleshooting has ruled out other culprits.


----------



## JayKay PE

Supe said:


> Odds are the bumper cover had the clips that hold the horn wires, which is typically two spade type connectors.  Should just be a matter of sliding them back on, provided you can find the horn and actually reach it.


Thank god!  You are helping me so much!  When I googled this they kept saying, 'check the fuse', and I'm like, "I know the fuse is working, it worked before my dad decided to jerk up on the bumper cover, I just don't know if something is pinched/fell off".  Can't look at it this week/weekend, ASCE conference (w/ @vee043324 Yay!), but the following weekend I think I can get through without using my horn...maybe.


----------



## Ranger1316

Master slacker said:


> Hopefully getting new tires on the 'rolla today.  Current tires are racing slicks without the traction and recently developed a nasty vibration when they get warm.  At least I hope it's the tires as basic troubleshooting has ruled out other culprits.


Any idea which brand? I've had good luck with Hankook and Continental but I loathe the stock Firestone tires on my '16 Impala.


----------



## Master slacker

Falken Pro Touring A/S.  Brother works at Falken.  Got four tires for $120 shipped (tax included).


----------



## Ranger1316

That's a great deal, always been a fan of Falken even though I've only had buddies with them like the Ziex 912.


----------



## Master slacker

I'm partial to Kumho, but i'm more in favor of saving $300.


----------



## Road Guy

So now that the daughter bought her own car (with her $$$) this past weekend, we know have 5 cars - I made a spreadsheet to try and keep track of batteries, tires, oil changes and shit, It seems that only the daughter is motivated to help in this endeavor. 

I don't plan on doing 5 oil changes so the kids have all been delegated that task - and they want to just pay someone to do it, again with their funds, but this is starting to be something to manage...

I personally keep my vehicles info on a notepad on my phone and then also put in the spreadsheet - I haven't found a cool app yet - but with all the maintenance it is more to manage than I care for to be honest! - will be glad to just get back to mine and the wifes cars..


----------



## Road Guy

@Supe  So I bought this hitch-hauler 20 years ago - its a beast and I've hauled some crazy shit with it over the years - and I haven't found any similar ones.

I backed it into a tree pretty hard while camping this past weekend,  I was going to try and find someone to fix this, its all steel so i assume anything can be repaired with a good welder?  Id hate to lose this thing


----------



## Supe

If it just bent some expanded metal and angle, I can't imagine it being particularly hard to repair.


----------



## MA_PE

Agreed.  Looks like you can “fix” it with a sledge hammer.  Is it just that the back piece is bent at the center?  Wrap a good strap around it and put the other end around a tree.  Put the car in drive and pull it straight.


----------



## Road Guy

Its much thicker metal than it looks, i once put half a pallet of sod on this thing,  my first thought was to cut out the bent portion and then just bolt a replacement section on, but it also has an angle section the holds the angle / wire cloth to the bottom -

I think the strap tree method would do more harm than good - I don't want to totally lose out on this thing, its been everywhere from Key West, Grand Tetons, Moab, etc


----------



## MA_PE

What are the dimensions of the beam (height and thickness) and what’s the total length?

if you know someone with a torch they could heat it and bend it back.

bring it to a body shop and see what they say.  Looks like it would be too tough.  Just need a means to brace it put the load on.


----------



## Supe

Looks like 1/8", 3/16" max.  You probably could bend it back, but wouldn't get it perfect because you won't get the expanded metal flat again, and will probably crack the welds on it.  If you get it repaired, someone is going to just cut out the bent section, mig in some flat plate and replacement angle, and whack out that section of expanded metal before tacking a new one back in.


----------



## Supe

FWIW, you can buy a pretty damned heavy duty cargo carrier for about $150, so I wouldn't get too emotionally attached.


----------



## Road Guy

I’d pay around $100 to get it fixed- I have never seen one as strong as this one to be honest - I get offers all the time from people who want to buy it-


----------



## Supe

I'd honestly be surprised if you could find a place willing to fix it that cheap.  Probably want to start looking for someone who does the work on the side, maybe hit up the local night school instructor and see if the weld shop class wants to take a crack at it?


----------



## Road Guy

i got a few nibbles on nextdoor ( people doing stuff on the side types)- going to see what they think  it would run - my fall back will just be to cut and replace with some type of bolt connection.

But I have always looked for  replacement options and haven't really found one cause I knew this day would come! But I guess with kids leaving the house I may not need it as much as I have when we had to pack 5 people in a vehicle for a trip and need the overflow space, we usually have this hitch hauler and an XL Thule up top!


----------



## Supe

I'd do it, but it'd cost you $300 to ship it, LOL.


----------



## Road Guy

next year my kid is taking welding at the tech school his senior year so maybe he can learn enough to do it and then I can rent a welder sometime


----------



## Supe

Just buy a MIG welder from Harbor Freight.  They're good enough/cheap enough to keep around for small jobs, even if you have to Stevie Wonder some things together.


----------



## Ranger1316

Road Guy said:


> I don't want to totally lose out on this thing, its been everywhere from Key West, Grand Tetons, Moab, etc


I would hang it on the wall in the shop/garage and grab another one. For the same price to fix it, you get to keep the memories and get a lighter, newer carrier.


----------



## Master slacker

$60.  Done.  Boom.  





https://harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-deluxe-cargo-carrier-66983.html


----------



## Road Guy

Ill post the full pic of mine, but that would be a serious downgrade..


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Ill post the full pic of mine, but that would be a serious downgrade..


That's what she said.


----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> looking for some shade tree advice..
> 
> I was trying to change the oil &amp; filer on the wifes highlander- it has a canister oil filter that uses a special tool (below) - the tool attaches to a 27 MM socket via 1/2" socket drive, I tried using a breaker bar ( steel pipe) and cant get this thing to budge.. tried "gently" hitting it with a block of wood and rubber mallet, penetrating oil and nothing will make this thing budge..
> 
> View attachment 13304
> 
> 
> I haven't tried an impact gun yet? Is that my only alternative you think?  Last time I changed the oil I didn't have this special tool so I didn't get the filter, and couldn't get it off this last time, I am wondering just how long this damn thing has been on? My wife used to take it to a small shop that we used to trust until about  a year ago when I just lost faith in them, which makes me wonder if they ever took the thing off either??


Been MIA for a while so just catching up on things around here.  Can someone explain the benefit to this style of canister filter?  My wife has a highlander and changing the oil is a pain.  I haven't had the issue RG had not being able to get the filter off, but it's still a pain because it feels like you have to be super careful with it and it makes a god awful mess (the new filter comes with a "drain plug" that never goes in easily and ends up spilling oil everywhere.  What was wrong with a traditional screw on/off oil filter?  The replacement filters on this canister style are just the filter and a couple of O-rings, but they end up costing just as much as a regular filter.


----------



## Supe

It's purely based on reducing manufacturing costs and reducing waste (steel filters are hard to recycle).  There is zero benefit to the consumer beyond being able to inspect the filter without cutting it open or having to drain the oil.


----------



## Road Guy

the one on my jeep is on the top of the engine and IMO it s awesome, easy to replace, no mess.. the Toyota version just sucks - I will probably just have the wife take it and get the oil changed at the old shop we used, they only charge $45 bucks- but you have to leave it all day..

also thanks for stopping by RW!


----------



## mudpuppy

I've never run into these canister filters.  Are they only in foreign cars, or do any USA  cars have them?


----------



## Supe

mudpuppy said:


> I've never run into these canister filters.  Are they only in foreign cars, or do any USA  cars have them?


They're becoming the new standard, especially on 4 bangers.  Even my 08 Saturn had one, and I know the Ecotec engines have them.


----------



## Flyer_PE

And I thought I took a step forward in technology when I converted the old tractor from its original canister filter to a spin-on.


----------



## mudpuppy

Turns out I lied... come to think of it, my 1979 Yamaha XS750 had a cartridge filter.  It was a PITA because there was an O-ring you had to fit just right in the filter cover and it you didn't get it in the groove right it would be pinched and ruined if you tightened the cover down on it.  I went through several O-rings on that damn thing.


----------



## jeb6294

I've got a canister fuel filter on the diesel...does that count?

Gets changed every 15,000 miles or so.  It's in a big plastic housing right on the frame rail on the driver's side so at least it's pretty easy to get to.  Has a handy dandy spot for a 32mm socket on the bottom for taking it off, but being plastic, there are lot's of stories of the housing breaking off (common enough that you can get a replacement on Amazon for $30).  I use a socket wrench in conjunction with a strap wrench.


----------



## JayKay PE

FYI, in case anyone was wondering about JK car issues.  Looked at my horn wire and it corroded right where it connects to the actual horn.  Wanted to figure out how to fix it, but was getting frustrated by my dad 'helping', so I took it to an auto stereo shop.  Guy fixed it for $10, I gave him a $20 for getting it done with no frills.

Thank god.


----------



## FLBuff PE

Best three row SUVs for hauling a pop-up camper. V-6 engine only, please. GO!


----------



## ChebyshevII PE PMP

FLBuff PE said:


> Best three row SUVs for hauling a pop-up camper. V-6 engine only, please. GO!


Dodge Durango


----------



## Supe

The Durango does have the best towing capacity for the V6's until you get into the luxury European SUV's.  The Traverse is probably the most cost-effective.


----------



## Road Guy

If you get the Durango make sure to get the tow package with the extra engine and transmission cooler - I had a v8 Durango with no tow package and it would overheat like a SOB. But it was pulling a "huge" boat..

But I for the money and long term gains I don't think you  get much better fuel efficiency with the V6 over the V8 - Its like you are slightly over stressing the smaller V6


----------



## Master slacker

Re-done'd the front brakes on the Silver Bullet (my 'rolla) this weekend.  The DS brake had been pseudo-stuck and really cooking the rotor for a while.  Ended up replacing rotor, hose, pads, caliper piston, piston boot, and slide pin boots on the DS.  The PS got the pad, rotor, and slide pin boots treatment.  New brake fluid and brakes work like newish.  Two weeks I got new tires so now i have no hesitation taking corners with a little spirit.


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> now i have no hesitation taking corners with a little spirit.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> If you get the Durango make sure to get the tow package with the extra engine and transmission cooler - I had a v8 Durango with no tow package and it would overheat like a SOB. But it was pulling a "huge" boat..
> 
> But I for the money and long term gains I don't think you  get much better fuel efficiency with the V6 over the V8 - Its like you are slightly over stressing the smaller V6


But pop-ups weigh next to nothing so the V6 shouldn't have any problem with it.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah I agree but it just seems the V8's hold there value down the road in terms of resale and trade in - I always go with the V8 if I have an option.


----------



## Ranger1316

Road Guy said:


> Yeah I agree but it just seems the V8's hold there value down the road in terms of resale and trade in - I always go with the V8 if I have an option.


That's a good point and the difference in gas mileage on most newer ones is marginal at best.


----------



## jeb6294

Very true.  Do the V8 Durangos have the cylinder deactivation?

Even though you might only use 4wd a handful of times here in the Cincy area, you still always get it because resale is better.


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> Do the V8 Durangos have the cylinder deactivation?


Yes


----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> the one on my jeep is on the top of the engine and IMO it s awesome, easy to replace, no mess.. the Toyota version just sucks - I will probably just have the wife take it and get the oil changed at the old shop we used, they only charge $45 bucks- but you have to leave it all day..
> 
> also thanks for stopping by RW!


So the one on my new car is on top of the engine.  Haven't had to change the oil yet, but looking forward to having easy access to the oil filter.   In other news, I got rid of my dependable &amp; economical Honda Fit for a VW Golf R.  I'm an idiot but the car is a riot.


----------



## Road Guy

Anyone see the Ford Ranger commercials on MNF last night?  Not sure why it took Ford 20+ years to figure out that a 4 door Ranger would sell - the thing looks pretty sharp - &amp; The Classic Ranger was probably one of the most reliable vehicles they made - I had 2 that each went to 150K miles on 4 bangers with no issues.


----------



## Supe

The smaller pickups aren't going to sell that great unless they cut prices considerably.  The Colorado numbers weren't great, and the Ranger initial numbers were just OK.  The problem is that they're mid-sized pickups, not compacts, and the 4 door models only have 5 foot beds.  A decently optioned one will run you just south of $50K before tax/title/BS.  At that point, you're already into a mid level Silverado.  If you want a stripper truck, it's only $7K difference and the Silverado has more cargo, more towing capacity (even the 4 banger has a higher tow rating than the Colorado), and newer interior.  They're just so close to one another cash wise for the most part, that it borders on "not worth it" to look at the smaller truck when you get to that point.  I'd have killed for GM to come back with a "real" S10.


----------



## Road Guy

But everything is in the $40K range these days though - If they stay $10 grand under the Tacoma they will probably do well.  I don't think I will ever need a full size truck to be honest. Even if I had room to park it I just don't know what I would do with it - My future may include a tear drop trailer but that's about the extent of it.

A guy I worked with got the Chevy Colorado and it just is an odd truck, it reminded me of that weird truck car Subaru tried to make. It just doesn't drive very well - and not very comfortable - it actually rides worse than riding shotgun in a 4 runner.

That Gladiator is growing on me, but its way out of my price range, but they don't look right without 35's at least.


----------



## Master slacker

Wife challenged a storm drain on Tuesday.  She lost.  Time for a new tire.  Ugh


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> That Gladiator is growing on me, but its way out of my price range, but they don't look right without 35's at least.


May want to hold off on that purchase: https://jalopnik.com/stop-sale-issued-for-certain-2020-jeep-gladiators-over-1838067116


----------



## Road Guy

man from reading the article looks like some overpaid UAW forgot to put some grease on the driveshaft during assembly?  Id hope they would find out who did that and make sure they got the job at starbucks they deserve!


----------



## leggo PE

Just scheduled a 75k checkup for my little Suby for next week, mainly because it hasn't been checked out for a while and has a kind of annoying rattle under the hood that makes the car sound scary but we were once told it was just a minor weld that was coming apart a little bit. Anyway, it doesn't sound great when it's being driven, though the car drives just fine and actually isn't driven that much besides the weekly grocery trip and occasional weekend trips (like Yosemite this past weekend).

I'm kind of not looking forward to seeing what they pull on me... But will do my best to not get swindled by the stealership!


----------



## Audi Driver P.E.

FLBuff PE said:


> Best three row SUVs for hauling a pop-up camper. V-6 engine only, please. GO!


Honda Pilot


----------



## Ranger1316

leggo PE said:


> Just scheduled a 75k checkup for my little Suby for next week, mainly because it hasn't been checked out for a while and has a kind of annoying rattle under the hood that makes the car sound scary but we were once told it was just a minor weld that was coming apart a little bit. Anyway, it doesn't sound great when it's being driven, though the car drives just fine and actually isn't driven that much besides the weekly grocery trip and occasional weekend trips (like Yosemite this past weekend).
> 
> I'm kind of not looking forward to seeing what they pull on me... But will do my best to not get swindled by the stealership!


I had something similar with my old Chevy Cavalier and it turned out to be a heat shield rattling against the exhaust. Simply bent it back toward the car and problem was solved.


----------



## leggo PE

I hope it's that simple!


----------



## jeb6294

leggo PE said:


> I'm kind of not looking forward to seeing what they pull on me... But will do my best to not get swindled by the stealership!


Been a while huh?  I'm pretty sure you're going to need a $149 air filter replacement and some $89 windshield wipers at the very least.


----------



## leggo PE

Haha probably.

We actually do need new windshield wipers but I know you can just pop 'em on and off and they're like $20 at an auto parts store.


----------



## Ranger1316

leggo PE said:


> Haha probably.
> 
> We actually do need new windshield wipers but I know you can just pop 'em on and off and they're like $20 at an auto parts store.


I just tried Bosch Icons and they are horrible. Started streaking within a month so I'm going to go back to Rain-X Latitude next time around.

Cheapest prices I have found are at Walmart or on Amazon.


----------



## Supe

Rock Auto if you can wait 2-3 days for shipping is where I always buy my consumables.


----------



## Ble_PE

Supe said:


> Rock Auto if you can wait *2-3 days* for shipping is where I always buy my consumables.


----------



## Supe

Ble_PE said:


>


Can't wait 2-3 days, kept 6 month consumables on car for a year and a half.


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> Can't wait 2-3 days, kept 6 month consumables on car for a year and a half.


Windshield wipers are 6 month consumables?    Someone has Rain-X stocks.


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> Windshield wipers are 6 month consumables?    Someone has Rain-X stocks.


If you like streaky, chattering windshield wipers, more power to you!


----------



## Road Guy

It hasn't rained here since early June, but it will start to snow in a few weeks so its always a mad dash for folks to replace them after that first event.

I've already bought 10 gallons of windshield washer fluid  cause that shit flies off the shelf faster than the wiper blades...


----------



## leggo PE

Good to be prepared.

I just ordered some Rain-X windshield wipers for my car. It won't actually start to rain here until around November, but I've been meaning to get new wipers for like a year now, at least. Nothing like the reality of a trip to the stealership to help me get them!


----------



## mudpuppy

The front axle U-joins on my XJ needed replacing , so went ahead and got axle shafts replaced, along with wheel bearings and brakes.  Now the front left axle leaks.  I'm assuming the axle seal is bad.  It's not leaking a ton--maybe a couple teaspoons after I drive my normal commute.  Safe to continue driving, and keep an eye on the fluid in the diff?

Replacing the seal looks a bit more involved than I'm willing to do myself.  The kicker here is the shop that did the work (I assume he didn't replace the axle seal in the process) went out of business literally a couple days after the work was done.  I haven't priced out having the seals replaced at another shop, but I'm guessing a few hundred $$.


----------



## blybrook PE

@mudpuppy, I'm dealing with a similar issue with the wife's truck.  We had a bunch of front end work completed (including fluid changes in the diff's) and the shop royally messed up the seals.  As they had a really tough time finding the original issue that brought the truck to them in the first place without my direct intervention, I'm working with another shop to get the repairs done.

Leaking seals are something to keep an eye on as the diff fluid can get low, causing a more costly repair; plus as it leaks onto the brakes, can damage the pads / cause ineffective braking conditions.  I would recommend finding another shop to get both seals replaced before winter hits.  

The cost from my '12 ram 3500 was $600 for seal replacement, including a front end alignment and u-joint upgrades.


----------



## Supe

He probably damaged it during axle install/removal (easy to pinch the lip).  Front axle leak not as important as rear.  Should be fine to keep driving if diff level is OK.


----------



## mudpuppy

I've read some people saying it's ok to drive with no oil in the front diff if you don't put it in 4WD... but I'm not sure I buy that since Jeeps don't have locking hubs and the front axles/driveshaft are always spinning?

If it's really upwards of $600 (and I can't see it being much less than $400), I probably won't bother getting the seals replaced.  This isn't a daily driver for me--I mostly keep it around for hauling stuff I don't want to put in one of the "nice" cars, and for plowing snow.


----------



## Supe

If the R&amp;P are spinning, needs oil.  Even with no real load the gears and bearings will get crazy hot and start eating themselves.


----------



## kevo_55

Sounds like MP needs to Uber it home tonight.


----------



## mudpuppy

kevo_55 said:


> Sounds like MP needs to Uber it home tonight.


Ha ha, we don't even have Uber available here.

I'm not expecting to run with the diff empty, but I'll have to keep a close eye on the oil level to make sure it doesn't leak too much.


----------



## Road Guy

I learned something new over the weekend - through the horrible app known as "nextdoor"

Summary:


Guy at Soccer Park was there for his kids soccer game has his car keyed (Tesla)

Tesla's apparently snap photos when there is movement detected around the car when it is parked

Results-- Fairly good evidence of the activity taking place

This quickly escalated from Nextdoor to FB, then to the local Denver news, hope they catch this woman!

(Also now I am going to have to make faces and do funny dances when I park next to Tesla's from now on)


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Those pictures have made the rounds of the Tesla forums and Facebook pages too.


----------



## leggo PE

My car has been dropped off at the stealership... Just waiting for the call to tell me how much $$ I have to give them on top of what I already will be paying for the regular service!


----------



## blybrook PE

If it's the stealership, they'll likely want your next three unborn children!


----------



## LyceeFruit PE

I drop my car off next week for inspection at the dealership (they have a shuttle). here's hoping i'm not asked for the tint certificate again since i don't have one and told him that last year.


----------



## leggo PE

What the heck is a tint certificate?


----------



## Supe

leggo PE said:


> What the heck is a tint certificate?


Several states have inspections that require them to check the % tint as part of the inspection.  I guess some give you separate paperwork indicating it checks out OK.  NC puts it all on the same inspection report, but they charge you extra to do the tint check.


----------



## LyceeFruit PE

leggo PE said:


> What the heck is a tint certificate?


a piece of paper stating what % my tint is so they can easily tell if my tints are within state limits.


----------



## leggo PE

Oh, like tiny in the windows? For some reason, my mind first went to the tiny of the color of your car, about which I would not know why anyone would really care.

I do know some states have regulations about the window tint though.


----------



## Supe

leggo PE said:


> Oh, like tiny in the windows? For some reason, my mind first went to the tiny of the color of your car, about which I would not know why anyone would really care.
> 
> I do know some states have regulations about the window tint though.


Yes, window tint.  They limit the percentage (and coverage for the windshield) for driver and officer safety.


----------



## leggo PE

Makes sense!


----------



## Master slacker

MIL took the 'rolla to the stealership while we were camping in the woods last week to take care of some recalls (thanks, Takata...).  They found numerous other areas of concern and wanted to help her get the car right for a nominal fee since she was already there.  For example, a rear taillight was out and they were about to charge her $100 to change it.  I did it when I got back for about $4.  They also wanted to do coolant change (did it early this year, still niiiiiice and pink), plug change (did it early this year), air filter change, and remove the air in the tires and fill it up with nitrogen.      Thankfully she didn't do any of it.  They're "stealerships" for a reason.  They didn't even give the 'rolla a complimentary wash.


----------



## Road Guy

So I finally bought the bullet on the impact gun and got the wife's oil cannister off (with just one pull of the trigger) - (from my oil changing story a while back)

The annoying part was I couldn't find the can where I keep my "fittings" for my air tools and was just an hour of throwing shit around the garage, only too make another trip to home depot..

Id say based on the look of the filter the place we paid to change the oil didn't change it either, it was literally in pieces.. but the impact gun was cool as shit, I may go back to doing my own tire rotations just to be able to use it for something..

@roadwreck - on the same type cannister I put a hose on the end of the "plug" that helps drain the oil cannister and it makes a huge difference in the amount of "spill" that occurs - not sure the size but maybe 5/8"?  makes it a breeze..


----------



## roadwreck

Road Guy said:


> @roadwreck - on the same type cannister I put a hose on the end of the "plug" that helps drain the oil cannister and it makes a huge difference in the amount of "spill" that occurs - not sure the size but maybe 5/8"?  makes it a breeze..


Good tip.  

I recently purchased an oil extractor to assist with oil changes on the VW.  Since the filter is on top of the engine I "should" be able to change the oil without needing to get under the car.  Also looking forward to using it for the lawn mower oil change, which is always a PIA.


----------



## Road Guy

So I am overdue in changing the lubricant in my front and rear differentials - This looks pretty straightforward on the "youtube", its just not something I've done before - any real tricks to it?


----------



## blybrook PE

Have a drain pan that'll fit under the diff and go for it. If you split the diff, be sure to have RTV sealant and / or gasket maker on hand to seal things back up. This "repair" is probably the easiest lube changes there is.


----------



## Supe

If you have to split the diff in lieu of drain plugs, wear throwaway clothes.  Few things on this earth reek as badly/strongly as old gear oil!


----------



## Road Guy

If I have a drain plug is there any real need to break the cover? I’m right at 110K miles - don’t suspect any issues just getting around to doing some maintenance?


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> Few things on this earth reek as badly/strongly as old gear oil!


Tru dat.  No matter how hard you try, or how many you wash them with whatever magic powder you have, gear oil smell will never come out of clothes.  Ruined a loyal flannel work shirt that way.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> If I have a drain plug is there any real need to break the cover? I’m right at 110K miles - don’t suspect any issues just getting around to doing some maintenance?


No.  Just jack the nose/tail up a bit to get the last bit to drain, since that will have all the glittery shit in it!  FWIW, I like Amsoil gear oil if you can get it.


----------



## jeb6294

Wife is working in Rochester, NY at the moment.  She had to drive up from Philly since that's as far as she got before her flight was cancelled.  Guy at Enterprise must've felt bad for her because he ended up giving her a pimped out Chrysler Pacifica.  Now she's spoiled and want Apple Car Play in our swagger wagon.  Off to Crutchfield to see what they've got for a Toyota Sienna.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> If I have a drain plug is there any real need to break the cover? I’m right at 110K miles - don’t suspect any issues just getting around to doing some maintenance?


Nope, follow Supe's suggestion for raising up the diff. Another helpful tool is a hand held fluid pump or small wet vac to make sure any glitter is gone.


----------



## chart94 PE

Woke up to a flat tire. Took her off, found the nail and had to plug it. Worst part is the damn thing couldn’t wait two days when my new tires come in..


----------



## jeb6294

Anyone ever have a stereo with wireless Car Play? Sienna has a USB port and there’s an adapter to connect it to an aftermarket stereo, but it sounds like you can’t use it as a wired Car Play connection...it’s a USB/aux port so I guess Car Play doesn’t like the extra wiring. They’ve got stereos with wireless Car Play, but I’m wondering how well that works.

Another option could be to pop out the OEM USB and replace it with a different one that is strictly a USB port. Do you suppose those are standard sizes? There’s also a 12-volt plug down a little lower...I’m sure they make USB ports that would go there.


----------



## Road Guy

That’s weird -

I had a similar issue on my Jeep radio and bought a part here that made it work:

https://www.infotainment.com/collections/factory-oem-radios-non-navigation

I guess I had the “full radio” from a higher end package model Jeep but it was missing the “guts” to make the Bluetooth work -

It also has a USB on the front of the radio but it’s only useful for downloading files from a flash drive (which seems dumb in 2019).but I bought a usb cable that attached to rear of radio which made the jeep version of apple car play work (but it routes through the glove box)


----------



## Road Guy

Well shit that differential change was a snap- glad I didn’t pay someone to do that...


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Well shit that differential change was a snap- glad I didn’t pay someone to do that...


If you see some gear oil dribbles in the driveway after a little bit, just retorque the drain plug.


----------



## Road Guy

I also think I have a front axle seal leak, right side was pretty covered in differential fluid, I stopped watching the you tube videos when they said "now break out the air chisel..."   going to make some calls as this looks a tad more than I can do in my garage?


----------



## Supe

PITA and will require pulling the diff to replace the inner seal (which is also shot if your outer is leaking).  I would just pony up the couple hundred and take it somewhere.


----------



## Road Guy

I am going to make some calls today,  but for now Ill just add some lube to it weekly to be safe-

always something....


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> If you see some gear oil dribbles in the driveway after a little bit, just retorque the drain plug.


How does that clean up the driveway dribbles?


----------



## Supe

Master slacker said:


> How does that clean up the driveway dribbles?


It doesn't, it just keeps a few dribbles from becoming a lot of dribbles, since they can loosen up after a couple heat cycles.  My 8.8 is bad about that - aluminum diff with steel plug.


----------



## Road Guy

The Mag Chloride I pick up from the roads when it snows usually eats away at whatever is on the driveway!


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> It doesn't, it just keeps a few dribbles from becoming a lot of dribbles, since they can loosen up after a couple heat cycles.  My 8.8 is bad about that - aluminum diff with steel plug.


----------



## Road Guy

So for the last few month I had been getting some strange warning lights show up while driving that wouldn’t normally show up (ABS, 4WD, etc) – And then occasionally when I would go to start the jeep it wouldn’t start, I would re step on the clutch pedal hard and then it would start.  Since I am a “internet mechanic” and parts changer I swap out the starter and alternator – same problems keep occurring – I thought maybe I was having some problems related to my new tranny from a few years ago.. Take it into some guys I have used before, they spend 2 days looking at it and then discover that one of the wires from the starter that wraps down below the engine back to the battery and elsewhere had been either chewed on by a rat or squirrel..

Guess that’s a better problem to have than some electrical bug but hoping that that is all it was!


----------



## Supe

Hopefully.  Otherwise, ABS sensors are also common culprits for those types of dash lights, and are easy fixes.  Usually a GOOD scan tool will isolate which one.


----------



## Master slacker

My dad's Jeep (3.8L JK, don't know the year) had an issue last year that lit up the ABS light and he had trouble driving.  Couldn't figure out the problem and I forget what it was in the end.  But the point is he had to take it to the stealership to get fixed.  :dunno:


----------



## Orchid PE

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket


----------



## Road Guy

I did find lots of people that had similar issues "online' but most of them also experienced a loss of power or some other action - I am going to get the wire replaced and then see what happens from there -  Have had several code readers on it but nothing comes up - but the lights would generally go away after around 30 seconds or if I turned the vehicle off and then off again


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> ... but the lights would generally go away after around 30 seconds or if I turned the vehicle off and then off again


----------



## Road Guy

It would work for about a week 

But we had several people in our neighborhood having similar issues a few years ago, apparently some of the coating they use for wires is tasty for squirrels..  Guess I need to get some ammo for my Benjamin!


----------



## blybrook PE

I had an ABS issue on a Ford Ranger, was the wire connector at the master cylinder. Changed the connection and all the warning lights went away.

Although, there's a better repair for all of it, cheaper too if the vehicle isn't having issues - Electrical tape.

Just cover the offending light and continue driving!


----------



## MA_PE

My brother was having abs light issues with his 2008 bmw 335ic convertible.  Took it to the dealer and they said the system needed to be replaced and estimated the repair at $12k.  He took it to a local mechanic would said he could do it for $6k.  He’s had the car since new, it’s always garage and only has ~80k.


----------



## Road Guy

Before I will ever take another vehicle back to the stealership (other than for a warranty repair) I’ll take it down to the city and leave the keys in it with the windows down and take the insurance claim...


----------



## JayKay PE

JK doing not so exciting car stuff to you guys, but ultra exciting to me!!! 

Wednesday night, when I left work, little Corolla was having trouble turning on.  I'd push to start and it'd sound like it was whining while waiting for the engine to actually catch, but once it did, it was fine/ran like normal.  The little engine warning light came on during the 'attempts to start' but promptly turned off when the engine finally turned on and the electronics in the car weren't flickering or anything.  Yesterday, same thing in the morning (took a little bit longer to start, but I just held the button for like 5 seconds instead of the normal 'just push'), but the afternoon starting was much quicker. 

I'm used to my car batteries just dying/my car not being able to turn on, not doing this weird trickle/maybe kinda start, so I wasn't sure if my shorter commute was causing some issues.  I do only drive like 2 miles/10 minutes in the morning for city driving, versus my original driving mode of around 60 miles/1 hour of highway, but the temperature dial always gets up to the middle during the drive.  Also, it got pretty cold on Wednesday, nothing too serious/my car has been in colder weather, but it was a bit of a change from the 50 F (?!) temperatures we've been happening.  Only research said it might be the alternator or starter, but I only got the car (new) in June 2016 and it's at 60k miles.  Like, I've never heard of an alternator getting replaced so young and I was also told to listen for clicking with the starter issues?

Any who, after work I drove home and let it sit for a little in idle for like 5-minutes before turning off.  Car was totally warmed up.  Popped the hood and there wasn't any corrosion on the terminals buuuuuut there was some corrosion coming out the seam in the front of the battery.  Got the car in June 2016, so the battery is only 3.5 years old, buuuuuuuut I don't think it was replaced after I had that huge fender bender in November 2018/they said it wasn't damaged.  Changed clothes and then drove to Costco to a) drive it a little longer/see if the battery would recharge and b) buy a new car battery.  Car started fine after I left Costco, after the gym, and this morning.

I haven't replaced the battery yet, since it's been gross raining last night and today, but I think I'm going to just do it even though my car was fine this morning.  The Corolla is, I think, literally the easiest car to replace a battery on and that corrosion coming out the front seam is making me ultra leery that there isn't a leak or crack or something inside the casing.  I def do not think it is the alternator or starter.

Thoughts on this long-winded tale of me just replacing a battery?


----------



## MA_PE

Is it a sealed battery or can you open the caps on the top and see the fluid level inside?

If you’ve got caps, pop them off.  The level should be covering all the plates inside.  If it’s low it might be a sign that you’ve got a slow leak (combined with your observation of deposits at the seam it would seem likely).  Then it should be replaced.

Of course replacing it couldn’t hurt period. Note that completely disconnecting battery power on most newer cars clears parameters stored in memory like the preset radio stations and if the transmission learns your driving style and adjusts shift points accordingly.  Not a big deal but if there’s any learned settings it needs to go through the learning process again.  FWIW most mechanics usually have a 12v power supply they temporarily connect while swapping batteries so the memory settings aren’t lost.


----------



## JayKay PE

I think it's a standard sealed battery (there was nothing on the top except the connectors), but the fact that there was corrosion on the front middle of the battery at the seam, aka: as far from the terminal connections as possible, makes me think there is a slow leak going on.  Is it possible to crack something inside the battery and not have any damage on the outside?  The battery is on the side where I crunched in the front driver's side, so I'm thinking it might have been tapped or something when the radiator got crunched, but not actually scuffed up?

As for caring about settings: I actually don't listen to the radio that often, now that the commute is so short, and I try to catch up on my podcasts if I am driving semi-longer now (I maybe get through one podcast show a week, when I was going through one a day on the previous commute).  I'm actually walking a bunch more so I have an excuse to listen to my podcasts, so I have been ditching my car if I can walk to wherever I'm going if it's within 20-minutes.  I can always relink my phone, which I sometimes have to do due to Toyota entune randomly resetting, and that's really the only thing I car about setting-wise.  Thanks for responding!  I figured it was the battery, and my dad did too, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask the 'auto thread'.


----------



## Road Guy

3.5 years is a pretty good life for a car battery - I would recommend just taking it by advance auto parts (or similar store) and they will check it for you.


----------



## JayKay PE

Yeah, I might hit up autozone tonight after work and have them test the battery, alternator, and starter.  My dad mentioned they'll do it for free, so I figure why not?


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> 3.5 years is a pretty good life for a car battery - I would recommend just taking it by advance auto parts (or similar store) and they will check it for you.


:blink2:

wut?  For all of our vintage cars, I don't know of any battery that has lasted less than five years.  I had a DieHard Gold last nine years and two plain-Jane Duralasts go five years.  We're currently running on two Wal-Mart  Everstarts I installed three years ago.  Take a Benjamin to Wally World and get an Everstart, but bring in your old battery for the core charge unless you want to make a second trip back to the store.  :2cents:


----------



## Road Guy

Well let me restate, in Colorado and other places that have a "winter" 3.5 years is a good run. Even buying the most expensive ones I don't gamble past 3 winters.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Agreed.  3.5 years is about normal.  I've managed to get 5 years out of a car battery once or twice here but those are outliers.  I think the car manufacturers have been reducing the battery sizes to save weight.  This leaves less margin to lose to aging and shortens the usable battery life.


----------



## mudpuppy

I finally had to replace the battery in my 2006 Aveo in 2018.  I have no idea where AC Delco sourced that thing, but 12 years for a battery in Michigan was amazing!


----------



## Master slacker

Note to self, stay in sh*tty public school system area to save on car battery replacements.


----------



## blybrook PE

I've had batteries last anywhere from a year to over ten years. The one in my plow truck is going on 7 years, the wife's truck was just replaced and it was 10 years. My daily driver had new batteries 6 years after purchase from dealership. For living in -40 degrees and having hard winters, that's really good for the battery.

With the signs of corrosion, there's likely an issue inside and time to get it replaced. Either swing by Orielly, Autozone, Carquest or similar chain and have it swapped out.


----------



## JayKay PE

Yeah, I bought one from Costco for $78.  Going to install myself since the Corollas are the easiest thing to remove/install.  Know all about positive negative, then negative positive when disconnecting and reconnecting.  Don't feel like paying when it's a simple pop-out/pop-in job.


----------



## blybrook PE

Get a small dab of wheel bearing or lithium grease and coat the terminals before installation. It'll help combat future corrosion.


----------



## JayKay PE

Lol, I have no idea what's going on with my car.  Didn't replace the battery yet, since I'm lazy and it was raining like Noah's Ark was going to come down the street this past weekend, and the battery was suddenly working no problem so I didn't want to mess with it.  Driving around with the new battery in my trunk with my toolbox, but I did cover more distance this weekend in general, so maybe that has helped the original battery.  It's also been warmer these past couple of days, which, idk if that helps?

I think I'll replace it today after work, since it seems like it's going to be sunny later today and the temps are predicted to drop suddenly later this week.  Was going to go to AutoZone but I'm being ultra lazy/want to be able to go to the gym later tonight and I feel like if I go to AutoZone that my whole schedule will get wonky?


----------



## envirotex

Master slacker said:


> :blink2:
> 
> wut?  For all of our vintage cars,


I think that's the answer...All of our new cars have needed batteries around 3 years.  All of the really old cars' batteries last a long time, especially if you keep them on the trickle charger when you don't drive them regularly.


----------



## JayKay PE

Update: stayed late at work so didn't replace battery.  Drove over to AutoZone because I figured, why not.  They said my battery was charged 100%/it's good and that there were no problems on the starter or alternator.

uhhhhhh.  EB car gurus, should I still change out the battery?  Or was it maybe just a fluke from cold-weather temps suddenly dropping instead of gradually easing into below zero?


----------



## Supe

IMO, yes.  I never bother bringing batteries in for them to test anymore, because they've tested several as "good" that were duds/had a shorted cell.  It's one thing for the cranking speed to slow down when it's cold by a fraction, its another for it to barely turn over/sound like its not going to catch.


----------



## JayKay PE

Supe said:


> IMO, yes.  I never bother bringing batteries in for them to test anymore, because they've tested several as "good" that were duds/had a shorted cell.  It's one thing for the cranking speed to slow down when it's cold by a fraction, its another for it to barely turn over/sound like its not going to catch.


This is exactly what I wanted to hear.  I don't mind changing it out, but then when AutoZone said it was good...I started questioning myself.  Can't bug my dad (he just traveled with mom and bro to Hawaii) and everything online isn't exactly clear.  The cranking speed def slowed down and it felt like it almost wasn't going to catch so, idk, maybe it's slowly discharging during the day when I'm not driving and it won't catch because of that.  Either way: JK is to replace battery and just be done with it.  Thanks everyone for helping me with this simple question that I spiraled out of control so I wouldn't go to a dealership or auto repair place!


----------



## Supe

Part of the reason I say replace the battery is that you can rule it out.  If your alternator is bad, or the starter, and either one kills the new battery, you can just bring it in and replace the battery under warranty.  If its doing this every day, one thing you can do (although it will reset your radio, etc.) is to disconnect the battery cable overnight.  If it still lugs in the morning, then that will rule out parasitic draw in most cases.


----------



## JayKay PE

This is the first time anything has gone 'wonky' with my car starting and it's only 3.5 years old/60k miles.  I'm thinking it might be the battery since I was in a car accident in November 2018 where they crunched in that side of the car, but the battery wasn't damaged, so they reinstalled afterwards (leading me to think there might have been a pinhole leak or something).  Since I was driving a lot every day when I was in NY (around 3 hours a day), maybe that kept the battery charged?  Once I moved, and I started letting the car sit more/only drove maybe 20-mins a day total per day, perhaps the battery drain finally catch up (and then the cold day finally killed it).

Either way, the car has been starting like normal and there aren't any weird sounds, which makes me think it was the battery and AutoZone was reading it as 100% because I had been driving?  Would that make sense, the battery reading 100% after driving it over, since it wasn't from a cold start?


----------



## Flyer_PE

If they are applying a load to the battery, driving there shouldn't affect the results.  There is a difference between state of charge and battery capacity (i.e. you can have a fully charged battery that only has 10% of it's rated capacity). 

The USB charger I use in my truck has a voltmeter built into it (see Amazon link below).  With the engine running, the alternator should be able to maintain the system voltage higher than 13.5 Vdc.  At idle, it may vary a bit with load but it should stay pretty solid when driving.  You can also do a quick and dirty capacity check on the battery by seeing what the voltage does when you load it (turn on the headlights and heater blower etc.) with the engine off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRV0XNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1


----------



## JayKay PE

Ahhhh, so it is possible to have a 100% charge but a lowered capacity?  AutoZone, I think, did a load test?  They brought out a thing with wires, looked at it a ton before and after I started my car, and said my car sounded nice after it had been idling for a few.  Said the alternator and starter were fine.  Tbh, just going to replace the battery (I already bought it) and see how it works following.  If it fails with a new battery, then I'll poke the beast a little more.  @Flyer_PE, prob going to buy that little usb thing since I've been thinking of getting a double port for a while, so I might as well get one that gives me a little more data.


----------



## Road Guy

I dont think there is any harm in replacing the battery - that is just your entry into becoming a shade tree "parts changer" mechanic like the rest of us!


----------



## Road Guy

And knock on wood the wire harness replacement on the jeep seems to have done the trick - 5 days in and no weird warning lights coming on....

F'n squirrels, need Cousin Eddie to pay a visit and eat some of them


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> F'n squirrels, need Cousin Eddie to pay a visit and eat some of them


He stopped because they're high in cholesterol


----------



## JayKay PE

Road Guy said:


> F'n squirrels, need Cousin Eddie to pay a visit and eat some of them


I'd volunteer P2, but she only eats the top half.  Do you need the whole squirrel eaten or can the bottom halves be left behind as a warning?


----------



## JayKay PE

Okay. Final battery update. I checked the ccr (the cold crank whatever) on my new battery and it’s like twice the amount of my old battery, so maybe it being older with the lower cold crank is why it wasn’t happy with the sudden drop in temp. Was able to swap the battery out in less than 10-minutes. Not going to lie, I felt very self sufficient (I am aware I am lame for this), and I brought it back to Costco to get the core refund. When I turned the car on, it didn’t catch the first time, and I thought I fucked it up, but I turned it on right after and it worked perfectly!!  Maybe it just needed to close the circuit or something to make sure the battery was established? All radio settings and my phone still synced and everything and I’m just like, relieved I didn’t blow up my car. Thanks guys for walking me through something ultra simple!!!


----------



## Master slacker

JayKay PE said:


> ... on my new battery and it’s like twice the amount of my old battery,...




The starter will draw what current it needs to draw, but about double the old battery CCA?  Got dam!


----------



## JayKay PE

Master slacker said:


> The starter will draw what current it needs to draw, but about double the old battery CCA?  Got dam!


YEAH.  My old battery, when I popped it out and was able to read the top, said the CCA was 350-something.  New one is 640.  So I'm thinking this is just a bigger/better battery for my bbyCorolla.  I'm just happy this hopefully means 3-years of JK not having to worry too much about the car.


----------



## Flyer_PE

CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is a standard measure of the capability of the battery to deliver starting current.  It is defined as the number of amps a 12 volt battery can supply at 0 deg. F for 30 seconds while maintaining a terminal voltage greater than 7.2V.  My practice has been to install the highest CCA battery available that will fit the battery box.  The idea being that the battery with the higher CCA rating can be substantially degraded and still be able to start the car.


----------



## FLBuff PE

I just realized I never updated this. I asked about the best three-row SUV, but decided that since Mrs. Buff has the minivan, we didn't need a three-row SUV. I wanted something we could off-road in, and haul our popup camper with. I've always wanted a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I found a 2016 Limited with 11,000 miles on it in Minnesota when we were there in November. Had enough from my former company paying my stock options off to buy it outright, then drove it from Minnesota to Colorado. It's everything I had hoped for, so far. Not great mileage, but good for an SUV. It has the V6, which means it doesn't guzzle gas, but it will be powerful enough to haul the camper. I considered the Overland model, but I didn't want to get into the adjustable airbag shocks, which are at least $3k to replace when they break.


----------



## goodal

Ever since I was little I have wanted a 68-69 Camaro.  I am only 39 so its not like I grew up with one or anything and I am not a grease monkey, so I'm probably not the typical owner of one.  Still I cant help but drool over them.  I am able now to get one if I want and have been looking for a few months.  I've found this 68 local that has had a frame off restoration.  I've shown it to a friend that owns one and a few other peeps that are more mechanically minded than me and they have all given the go ahead.  My wife loves the idea and I can kick the old truck out of the garage and keep this thing in a semi-conditioned area.  I'm looking for a reason to not do it.  Can anyone talk me out of this?


----------



## LyceeFruit PE

My driveway finally won...

(Its got retaining walls on both sides)


----------



## Supe

goodal said:


> Ever since I was little I have wanted a 68-69 Camaro.  I am only 39 so its not like I grew up with one or anything and I am not a grease monkey, so I'm probably not the typical owner of one.  Still I cant help but drool over them.  I am able now to get one if I want and have been looking for a few months.  I've found this 68 local that has had a frame off restoration.  I've shown it to a friend that owns one and a few other peeps that are more mechanically minded than me and they have all given the go ahead.  My wife loves the idea and I can kick the old truck out of the garage and keep this thing in a semi-conditioned area.  I'm looking for a reason to not do it.  Can anyone talk me out of this?


Clean car, not so original that you wouldn't want to drive it, nope, you're screwed.  Give that man his money.


----------



## blybrook PE

I'm with Supe on this one. Get the car!


----------



## Road Guy

The only reason to not buy that car is that everywhere you go old dudes with ponytails and sleeveless denim jackets will be talking your ear off!


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> The only reason to not buy that car is that everywhere you go old dudes with ponytails and sleeveless denim jackets will be talking your ear off!


On the bright side - at least it's not an early Corvette.  Then it'd be flag jackets with socks and sandals.


----------



## MA_PE

Nice looking car.  There are a lot of 68-69 Camaros around.  If you’re confident in your friends recommendation and the price is right.  Go for it.

350?  Auto or 4-speed?


----------



## Orchid PE

Supe said:


> On the bright side - at least it's not an early Corvette.  Then it'd be flag jackets with socks and sandals.


Lol I used to work with a dude that owned a 60-something corvette. He always wore his flag pollo, the flag jacket when it was cold, had flag pins on his backpack, and drank out of a flag coffee mug. I didn't know there were others like him!


----------



## Supe

Chattaneer PE said:


> Lol I used to work with a dude that owned a 60-something corvette. He always wore his flag pollo, the flag jacket when it was cold, had flag pins on his backpack, and drank out of a flag coffee mug. I didn't know there were others like him!


I'd put money on him having at least one of the creepy car show dolls, too.


----------



## goodal

MA_PE said:


> Nice looking car.  There are a lot of 68-69 Camaros around.  If you’re confident in your friends recommendation and the price is right.  Go for it.
> 
> 350?  Auto or 4-speed?


350, 4 speed.



Supe said:


> Clean car, not so original that you wouldn't want to drive it, nope, you're screwed.  Give that man his money.


My thoughts too.  I dont want to be afraid to drive it and maybe put in AC and bluetooth.  If it was numbers matching original (I wouldn't be able to afford it for one thing), I wouldn't want to change it or drive it.   Not the case here.  Yall aren't much help.  I guess I'll have to go get it.  Ill let you know.


----------



## Supe

$1400 gets you a Vintage Air Surefit setup for early F body.  That's the way to go.


----------



## jeb6294

If you're looking for an excuse, the only thing I can come up with is maintenance.  From the picture, it looks like a carb.  Could mean there would need to be some adjusting of mechanicals, i.e. jets, points, etc. at times and since you admit you're not a grease monkey....  On the other hand, since it's all mechanical, you could take to a shop and it probably wouldn't be terribly expensive to get work done.  If it had been updated to fuel injection there might not be as much routine fiddling, but when you did take it to the shop, they'd just charge you a lot more to hook it up to a computer.

Okay, so it isn't really an excuse so much as an argument going full circle back to buying the car...but I tried.


----------



## FLBuff PE




----------



## Road Guy

Looks sharp!   Were going to Ouray in August if you want to come hit up Black Bear Trail with us?


----------



## FLBuff PE

Not sure I want to try that in a vehicle (other than a "REAL" Jeep). I mountain biked that about 15 years ago. It's beautiful, but very technical. Not sure I trust my offroading silz that much yet.


----------



## mudpuppy

Make sure you blast the CW McCall song the whole time you're riding that trail!

I've got a buddy that tried to do it a couple years ago but he was too early in the season and there was too much snow.  I might check and see if he's done it since them.


----------



## Flyer_PE

mudpuppy said:


> Make sure you blast the CW McCall song the whole time you're riding that trail!
> 
> I've got a buddy that tried to do it a couple years ago but he was too early in the season and there was too much snow.  I might check and see if he's done it since them.


"Doggone-it, Roy Gene!  How many times do I have to 'splain it to you?  When I tell you to put a rock under the wheel, I mean ROCK!"


----------



## Road Guy

on my 2002 Tahoe it keeps blowing the fuse for the ATC (Auto transfer case for the 4WD)  the "internets" say this happens often with drastic changes in weather ( and we have had 60's one day, 20's the next) but still seems odd.

Any other chevy truck owners with the Auto 4 Wheel Drive button have this issue?  Its  a cheap fix but I am thinking something larger looms?


----------



## Master slacker

pennies and bullets can solve the fuse blowing issue


----------



## jeb6294

Master slacker said:


> pennies and bullets can solve the fuse blowing issue


Worst advice I've ever heard.  Ain't you ever watched Mythbusters? Using a bullet will get you shot in the leg.  You gotta use a big nail.


----------



## Road Guy

peppridge farms remembers when this thread was helpful....


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> on my 2002 Tahoe it keeps blowing the fuse for the ATC (Auto transfer case for the 4WD)  the "internets" say this happens often with drastic changes in weather ( and we have had 60's one day, 20's the next) but still seems odd.
> 
> Any other chevy truck owners with the Auto 4 Wheel Drive button have this issue?  Its  a cheap fix but I am thinking something larger looms?


Unplug the actuator on the front axle, drive around, see if it does it.  If still blows, unplug the encoder motor on the transfer case, drive around, see if it does it.  If it still does it, you can try replacing the switch.  If that doesn't do it, you've either got an electrical short or a bad TCCM.  Sometimes they can just reflash the TCCM and you won't need a new one.  

This is all assuming you have no issues/noises from the TC itself.


----------



## Road Guy

thanks!  if it warms up above 45 I will look under the front this weekend.

A few years ago I had the switch replaced on the actual transfer case (around $800 bucks) and the switch on the dash, so I am hoping maybe it is either the cold or just some really old fuses? not sure if they get old but I have had these at least since Atlanta days...


----------



## Supe

Neither sounds too plausible.  This is a pretty common problem in all GM 4WD trucks of that era.  Is it throwing a 4WD service light on the dash when it happens?


----------



## Supe

While you're under there, also poke around for the wires coming from both (actuator and encoder) and make sure there's nothing that has rubbed through/shorted anywhere.


----------



## Road Guy

Yes it says service 4wd when it happens -  It did this last year and the fuse was good for a year, then it blew out in a week.  well see how long this one goes.. I just need this car to last another year or so...


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Yes it says service 4wd when it happens -  It did this last year and the fuse was good for a year, then it blew out in a week.  well see how long this one goes.. I just need this car to last another year or so...


If you can get a GOOD code scanner (one that displays OEM codes/lets you run tests), you should be able to see if the controller motor is the cause of the thrown code.  There are also a set of electronic diagnostics you can run with the scanners that should at least rule out the TCCM being the issue.


----------



## goodal

Well i did it.  She has a few minor issues, but this is by far the coolest thing i have ever owned.


----------



## Orchid PE

You want to crank her up and take a video?


----------



## Supe

Time to bump the power up a bit.


----------



## Master slacker

Supe said:


> Time to bump the power up a bit.


----------



## Road Guy

damn that is nice!  make sure you take it for the first ride like this:


----------



## preeb

Meanwhile, I drive around in a Volt that doesn't make any noise.


----------



## Road Guy

-1


----------



## preeb

I find it very peaceful. For daily driving, it's the perfect car.

Also instant torque at 0 RPM is its own bag of fun.


----------



## LyceeFruit PE

preeb said:


> Meanwhile, I drive around in a Volt that doesn't make any noise.


Boyfriend just got a Bolt.

I'm in a rental VW Golf and I'm so excited to get my Subie back today.


----------



## Orchid PE

We want to hear fast car go vroom vroom!

Side note, tons of people in town here are driving Teslas. I considered the possibility of thinking about getting a cyber truck, but I like being able to work on my own car.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Chattaneer PE said:


> Side note, tons of people in town here are driving Teslas. I considered the possibility of thinking about getting a cyber truck, but I like being able to work on my own car.


I drive a Model S named Edison.


----------



## goodal

View attachment IMG_4310.MOV


This is from a cold start so its not great.


----------



## Orchid PE

goodal said:


> View attachment 16421
> This is from a cold start so its not great.


I love it! I saw your profile picture run by too lol


----------



## Orchid PE

We'll, it's come time to change the front diff, rear diff, and transfer case oils. And probably topping off the grease points. That's what I'll be doing this weekend if the weather is decent. Almost time to change the transmission oil &amp; fluid, as well as flush out the coolant. I've gone through many creek crossing since last change so she'll really appreciate new gear oil!

I need to replace my driveshaft center support bearing at some time, too. The new bearing has just been sitting in the garage waiting, but I haven't had a full weekend yet where I have time to drop the drive shaft. I'll be replacing the center u-joint at the same time since it has to come out anyways.


----------



## MA_PE

goodal said:


> Well i did it.  She has a few minor issues, but this is by far the coolest thing i have ever owned.
> 
> View attachment 16418


Congrats!  Good luck with it.


----------



## enrique_nola

That thing sounds sweet!!


----------



## blybrook PE

Great sound, even on a cold start. That'll be a fun car to cruise around town in! Congrats!


----------



## Road Guy




----------



## Exengineer

Congratulations to General Motors for wrecking another car brand.  This time it's Holden in Australia.  Add that to Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Saturn and Saab.  Great record.  Keep up the good work.


----------



## mudpuppy

I was plowing snow last week in my Jeep and blew a brake line.  Almost took out my neighbor's mailbox, but managed to steer to avoid it--just ended up with a big scratch down the side of the Jeep.

The line broke inside the front-right wheel well, and from there it goes through the fender and snakes through the engine compartment.  I don't think I can replace the whole line myself.  The line is only corroded in the wheel well, and looks fine in the engine compartment.  I've seen parts to splice the lines with compression fittings, but that seems really risky on a hydraulic line?

If I bought a flaring tool set, would it be possible to flare the end of the existing line without removing the whole thing from the engine compartment, so I could splice in a new portion from there to the caliper?  And if so, anyone have recommendations for a flaring tool and a bending tool?  And is this even worth all the effort and expense on my part or should I take it to the shop?  There's a shop about 2 miles down the road I _think_ I can get to with minimal brakes, rather than having it towed.


----------



## Supe

You can rent the tool from Autozone for free with a deposit (they should have both double flare and bubble flare tools depending on what you have).  Same for the bender.  Even the cheap cast aluminum ones work fine, they're all I use, even on the race car (the bender that is).  Cheapest tubing cutter you can find will also work (mine's from Harbor Freight, but you can also use a dremel or hacksaw and debur if you really have to).  Not sure about Autozone, but I know for sure that Napa has premade lengths of brake line with the flares already on both sides in multiple lengths, so just just screw that into your flex line, bend where you want it, and then use that to eye up where you need to cut for your new fittings on the engine bay side.  It will take you longer to get the old line unscrewed than to do the flare.  If they have the copper-nickel premade lines, use those.  They won't rust, and they're so soft and are SO EASY to form.  Whole repair shouldn't cost you $25 including the brake fluid to bleed when you're done.

Do not use compression fittings, and do not attempt to drive with rear brakes only.


----------



## Orchid PE

Out of curiosity, was it a JK?


----------



## mudpuppy

This is a '97 XJ (Cherokee)

Sounds like something I may be able to tackle.  Probably a lot cheaper than a shop.

Last time I busted a brake line I did drive it to the shop with only rear brakes, but it was less than a mile away and speed limits of 25 mph.  Since I've moved--there's very little traffic, but it is a 55 mph road.


----------



## Supe

mudpuppy said:


> This is a '97 XJ (Cherokee)
> 
> Sounds like something I may be able to tackle.  Probably a lot cheaper than a shop.
> 
> Last time I busted a brake line I did drive it to the shop with only rear brakes, but it was less than a mile away and speed limits of 25 mph.  Since I've moved--there's very little traffic, but it is a 55 mph road.


Driving it any more than you have to will just dump fluid and make the master cyl. that much harder to bleed later.  Cheaper/easier to just do it yourself.  Your insurance company will thank you.


----------



## Orchid PE

mudpuppy said:


> This is a '97 XJ (Cherokee)
> 
> Sounds like something I may be able to tackle.  Probably a lot cheaper than a shop.
> 
> Last time I busted a brake line I did drive it to the shop with only rear brakes, but it was less than a mile away and speed limits of 25 mph.  Since I've moved--there's very little traffic, but it is a 55 mph road.


A buddy of mine broke a line on his TJ while out on a trail one day.

We ended up just clamping the line and bleeding the system. He had pressure to make it back out of the trail and then made it home.


----------



## Road Guy

You know if we could band together and recreate the XJ and sell we would all be doing rather well!  The longevity  of that vehicle is unreal.


----------



## Road Guy

Went to get my tires rotated on the Jeep at Discount tire - was funny watching the kid walk out to the jeep, get in, sit for a few minutes and then go back and find someone who can drive a stick shift to pull it into the bay.

I mean I know discount tire isnt really an auto shop but can you even be a quasi mechanic and not be able to drive a manual?


----------



## mudpuppy

Yesterday was abnormally nice for March in Michigan--sunny and 60 degrees.  So I started working on the blown brake line in the Jeep.  Things went unusually well (I managed to get the old brake line off and remove the vacuum canister that was in the way without breaking any rusted bolts, etc.) until I went to flare the old line I cut and discovered the bolt on the flaring yoke I borrowed from Adavance Auto was completely stripped and wouldn't put any pressure onto the die.  So now I wait for a new tool I ordered from Amazon and in the mean time the weather will go back into the 30s and who knows when I'll be working on it again.


----------



## Road Guy

I just wanted to get out of house so I took the old Tahoe (2002) for a drive, my younger kid drives it a his daily driver, but it was having a hard time catching gear (automatic) revving very high over 55 mph?   Sort of felt like when my boat motor would have bad fuel, but my gut says tranny?  It does have 250K something miles..


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> I just wanted to get out of house so I took the old Tahoe (2002) for a drive, my younger kid drives it a his daily driver, but it was having a hard time catching gear (automatic) revving very high over 55 mph?   Sort of felt like when my boat motor would have bad fuel, but my gut says tranny?  It does have 250K something miles..


I had a car with a TH-400 (GM 3-Speed Automatic) that did the pretty much the same thing.  The best description I can give is that it felt like it was falling out of high (3rd) gear at normal highway speeds.  It wasn't leaking any fluid at all.  The problem turned out to be a bad seal inside the transmission.


----------



## Supe

Have you checked fluid level?  Does it just free rev between shifts in multiple gears, or do you actually feel it shift and then it continues to rev?  Or is it only on the 2-3 shift?


----------



## Master slacker

I'm guessing you're experiencing side fumbling due to one or more of the six hydrocoptic marzlevanes not being fitted properly to the ambifacient lunar waneshaft.  Not too problematic, but you may want to have it checked out.


----------



## Road Guy

It’s more of a free rev and will eventually shift?

I haven’t checked fluid but will today on my smoke break at home


----------



## blybrook PE

Also smell the fluid. If it smells burnt, there’s some slippage going on.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> It’s more of a free rev and will eventually shift?
> 
> I haven’t checked fluid but will today on my smoke break at home


Likely needs a rebuild.  Friction materials worn, little extra line pressure from the RPM increase is just enough to engage.  Lots of ways for a 4L60e to fail!


----------



## Master slacker

and a rebuild can be done at home!

https://www.transmissionbench.com/index.html


----------



## Road Guy

KBB value (without the tranny issue) is from $648 to $958!

At this point if I can give it away and stop paying insurance on it I will be ahead in 6 months... &amp; since school is shitcanned for a while it doesnt make any sense to keep it..

Was going to put it on cragislist for $500 and try and get rid of it?  With older kids college done and he will be at home until May they will just have to go back to car sharing


----------



## MA_PE

Why not just run it until it’s dead?  Anything on the road will need insurance.  The kid needs his own car to get around.


----------



## Road Guy

probably will for the meantime, but they closed his school, and his job was at the county rec center which is closed so he wont have anywhere to go... if we are all still alive and working in summer he can get something and I can help him as best I can, but I cant sink much more $ into this thing..


----------



## Supe

You'll easily get $500 for it.  Someone will swap a junkyard trans into it for dirt cheap.


----------



## Road Guy

Can you do a tranny swap
With just jack stand? Maybe he needs a project to work on until school starts up or the world ends- I just can’t see putting more than a few hundred into this Tahoe


----------



## blybrook PE

You'll need a few jack stands and the transmission adapter for a floor jack to do it safely /quickly. I've done it with a regular floor jack and some 4x4's in the past, but the adapter makes it easier when working in the yard.


----------



## Supe

I've never swapped a transmission with anything but a floor jack and jack stands.  They're not light, so it helps to have a partner until the bellhousing bolts are in.


----------



## Road Guy

With as many old Tahoe’s on the road I would have though finding one in a junkyard would have been doable but a weeks worth of calling around hasn’t generated any-

It’s will only go in reverse now - I guess at 1/4 million miles it’s time to let go- just can’t see putting money into it and since it’s signed up on my 17 year olds insurance it’s costing a shiny nickel to sit in driveway...

I was gonna try craigslist but is there another way to just get rid of it without having to endure that process? I thought about calling the junkyards back to see if they would buy it? V8 engine is still strong. Everything else is pretty much falling apart...


----------



## mudpuppy

Junkyards will probably offer you a couple hundred bucks at least.  I did craigslist with my Bronco and sold it in a couple days, cold, hard cash.  I also donated a motorcycle I didn't want to deal with and they came and picked it up.  If you itemize your taxes you can get some value out of that.


----------



## thekzieg

When I was in college my parents donated our ’86 Toyota van to the local fire station for jaws of life training. There’s a picture somewhere of it with the roof fully severed. And as weird as it sounds, you can also sometimes donate cars to your local NPR station.


----------



## Road Guy

Ill call a few more junkyards after the holiday weekend,  at this point the blue book if the car was running is only like $600 bucks?  i woudlnt be getting rid of it if it worked  but i think all that might be useful is the engine.

Someone told me they used one of those donate your car to charity services and it was kind of a pain  / scam - i guess they auction your car off and say it goes for $50 bucks then thats your deduction, lol


----------



## Master slacker

I sold a janky '92 mercury tracer to pull-a-part for $200.


----------



## Road Guy

well its snowy and cold this week so looks like I am going to push this to warmer weather...


----------



## Road Guy

so 2 weeks ago I changed the oil in the jeep, and I know I spilled some near the belt,  and ever since I would get a low pitch "squeal" (not like a pig though) and I figured it would burn off, but it is still there, sounds like its coming from near the belt / alternator - I haven't been driving a bunch, but I have been enough that I would have though it would be gone by now?

I put on a new alternator a few months back and thats the closest area to where the squeal comes from.

&amp; in typical fashion if I try and  video the squeal then it doesn't squeal...


----------



## Master slacker

Remove belt.  Spin all pulleys and listen / feel for any chatter or not smooth operation.  Replace as needed.  Clean all pulleys with your favorite degreasing agent.  Install new belt.


----------



## Road Guy

gotcha- I am glad the belt replacement isnt like the old days where you had to use a prybar - ( will also wait till better weather for this)

thanks!


----------



## Supe

Just get the cheap tool or use a big socket/extension to pull on the tensioner.  Quick check is to turn on all the accessories so there's a bunch of alternator load, and have the kid rev in neutral to make it squeal.  If you spray some belt dressing on there and it stops, it's the belt/pulley.  In my experiences, when an alternator bearing fails, it's a pretty continuous screech/chirp/squeal, and the alternator shits out shortly thereafter.


----------



## Road Guy

I wonder if the advance auto parts alternator I bought was crap? Would it read low if I put it on one of those battery / alternator testers?

It was still cold out so I didn’t mess with it this weekend //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png


----------



## Master slacker

If you can get a voltmeter on the alternator, it should read 14.5'ish volts when engine is idling.  But charging is independent of the bearing issue, if there is one.  If the bearing is rough, bring that ish back.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I wonder if the advance auto parts alternator I bought was crap? Would it read low if I put it on one of those battery / alternator testers?
> 
> It was still cold out so I didn’t mess with it this weekend //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png


Other than NAPA, I won't buy a parts store branded alternator anymore.  They are all absolutely terrible.  I ended up eating $600 labor on the "Bosch Premium Remanufactured" alternator for my Saturn a few years back that shit out in &lt; 30 days.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah I agree, I dont have one very close to me though for some reason -   i think i got used to this one being so close to the house - I will check the volts at my lunch break   Its only been 2 months so maybe I can just do a straight up refund and go find a napa one.


----------



## jeb6294

It's been a while since I had to use anything from one of the usual suspects, i.e. Autozone, O'Reillys, etc., but I seem to remember that it was always really easy to return parts within the warranty period...kind of like they know their stuff is garbage so they don't put up a fight.


----------



## MA_PE

Decided to swap my winter snow for the summer wheels/tires.  Ea ch is mounted on wheels so it’s just a matter of lifting the car and swapping 4 tires.  The local tire place charges like $20 so I have them do it and whiles it’s there I have them change the oil.  I like to drop it off and they can take their time and I’ll pick it up later.  Saturday AM we get up early and head over, my wife is following behind to pick me up.  I’m in the tire store and they take my car and my wife calls and said she just bounced off a curb and has a flat.  She was about .5 mile from the tire store so I tell her to call AAA and I’ll walk to her.  I get there and there’s a big gash in the sidewall, it’s completely flat and there’s no way we can limp it to the store without changing the tire.  AAA sends a notice they’re on the way and should be ~30 minutes.  Thank god it was nice out, so we just hang around.  The car has a donut spare and a toy jack/tire wrench so I’m just not going to try myself.  50 minutes later AAA shows.  He lifts the car, takes all the lugs off and the tire is frozen on the hub and isn’t going to budge.  He kicked at it and sprayed some penetrating oil and still no go.  Luckily he was a tow truck and said he just as soon tow somewhere.  Well I was just at the tire store 1/2 mile away.  Told him to tow it there and I called and they said they had a tire available.  We walk to the store and meet the tow truck.  But we don’t have a ride home.  Given the covid situation I don’t want to take an Uber.  Mean time while we were waiting for AAA, the tire store called and said front brakes are &lt;1mm.  I said fine do the brakes.  
 

I figure they can throw a tire on and we can at least go home and wait.  After another 45-60 minutes hanging outside the tire store my car is ready but the wife’s is not.  Fine get me the fuck out of there.  Get home and put the snows away....they put the aluminum summer wheels on using the cheapo lug nuts for my steel winter rims instead of the chrome capped lugs for my summer wheels.  Fuk.  It said on the work order the “mounting hardware is on the floor in the back seat”.  We go back and get the wife’s car and I wait another 1/2 hour for them to bring my car in and swap lugs.   What should’ve been $60 tire swap and oil change took the better part of the day and cost me $500 for both cars.     :suicide:


----------



## Road Guy

Well there isnt much to do these days on a Saturday anyways.. but yeah that sucks..

I changed the pads on the wifes and sons car a couple of weeks ago, they were both at around 90K miles and I would say they only half worn. Maybe the Toyota factory pads are not too shabby..


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I changed the pads on the wifes and sons car a couple of weeks ago, they were both at around 90K miles and I would say they only half worn. Maybe the Toyota factory pads are not too shabby..


I had to change the brakes on our Toyota Sienna, everything up front and pads in the rear. It had maybe 45-50k miles on it. Pads up front were gone so the rotors needed to be changed anyway, but was nice to do anyway because apparently they didn’t bed them in at the factory because they had a pretty big shudder.


----------



## Road Guy

Is that the mini van?

Wife has a highlander and son has a Rav4 - they are pretty easy to do since they have small tires, both the wife and my eldest drive like an old lady so maybe that helped -  now that the jeep has 35's I dont know if it will be so easy on mine (I need to get a bigger  jack)


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Is that the mini van?
> 
> Wife has a highlander and son has a Rav4 - they are pretty easy to do since they have small tires, both the wife and my eldest drive like an old lady so maybe that helped -  now that the jeep has 35's I dont know if it will be so easy on mine (I need to get a bigger  jack)


The long frame jacks and extra tall jack stands from Harbor Freight are actually really nice.  Those and a block of wood will let you jack up from the diff no problem.


----------



## Road Guy

thanks I will take a look l (I wonder if they are open?) Do you think they would do a 35 IN ?  Sounds like an essential visit to me?

I was going to get a high lift jack for the trail and thought I would use that but those are kind of a PIA in the garage.

also, if I had known the world was coming to an end I probably wouldn't have spent the money on this (February) but I did need new tires anyways and it was WAY over due..


----------



## blybrook PE

I use a hi-lift all the time, but I've made a few modifications, such as the stabilizer frame: https://safejacks.com/collections/hi-lift-jack-accessories/products/universal-hi-lift-adapter-for-60-jack (I built my own out of material mostly from my scrap pile). I'll get a photo later today when I open up the conex again after work.

They're great when you've properly stabilized them, otherwise, they can be dangerous.


----------



## Road Guy

Is that just to stabilize it on the garage floor?  Looks like a good set up, I had been told by other jeep folks not to use the rubber pad in your garage?


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> thanks I will take a look l (I wonder if they are open?) Do you think they would do a 35 IN ?  Sounds like an essential visit to me?


35's only add 3-4" of normal ride height, it will do that no problem.  Harbor Freight is absolutely open, just with some reduced hours.  The one around here is limiting # of people in the store and using sneeze guards.


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> Is that just to stabilize it on the garage floor?  Looks like a good set up, I had been told by other jeep folks not to use the rubber pad in your garage?


I use it in the gravel drive way all the time when working on one trailer that I don't feel like getting the floor jack out for. There are some good youtube videos of this system in use, including lifting the back of a F150 a few feet off the ground and trying to push it over.

I've had it in pretty damp soil and dry sand with good results as well. I take it with me on road trips with my old military M-101A3 trailer, worked great in the Yukon territories when I had a flat.


----------



## blybrook PE

Here are the photos of the assembled stabilizer that I put together instead of purchasing the kit:

Sorry bout the rotation, was done automatically by the web browser.


----------



## Road Guy

That is Cool- do the cables just give it a little more stability?


----------



## blybrook PE

The cables make the system and really make the assembly rigid. Original design had the cables hooking to the rear of the jack. The updated design has it out front like my pictures show.

The cables get tensioned with the eye bolt.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Is that the mini van?
> 
> Wife has a highlander and son has a Rav4 - they are pretty easy to do since they have small tires, both the wife and my eldest drive like an old lady so maybe that helped -  now that the jeep has 35's I dont know if it will be so easy on mine (I need to get a bigger  jack)


We prefer “swagger wagon” thank you very much. I already got the big jack from HF (on Beechmont Ford since they jacked up my brakes on the previous oil change, thank you very much) when I had to do the brakes on the truck so it was supper easy. Hardest part was looking up the jacking points.

I’d have to look up the Jack I got, but guarantee, if it’ll lift my F350 it’ll work on a Jeep. EDIT: It is the Pitt. 3-ton low profile floor jack with 19 5/8-in lift. 

When I had my Jeep several of us had hi-lift jacks, but they were strictly for off-road emergency use only. Things honestly aren’t made for regular use. If you still want one, you could always get the little pins that lets you mount it on your hood hinges and look like a true mall crawler.


----------



## Road Guy

I have a sears 3 ton floor jack (unsure of the lift height on it)  and when I went from 31's to 33's I had to use wood blocks to even get it to reach the differentials  - ^ that was maxing out the 3 ton lift to do that -  The differentials on the trucks are a lot larger and sit closer to the ground than the ones on jeeps though - Id like to get something that could lift it easily cause I still prefer to do brakes and such myself - The closest HF is a good drive but I am going to hit them up this week and see what they got

I always figured the hi lift jack was more to be used as a come along (that's what Ive seen it used for mostly when riding) Seems every rig has them here in Colorado but I rarely saw them in GA, we just used an actual come along.

Moab is opening May 1st - May have to make a weekend trip cause I am going stir crazy..


----------



## Supe

The lift height on the HF long reach jacks are 24", so you can check to see if that's enough.


----------



## Road Guy

I still need to go visit the store though     (but I will look)

I wonder if my sears one is just a POS - cause I was really hoping that would have worked with 33's


----------



## Supe

The old Craftsman type are definitely short throw.


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> The old Craftsman type are definitely short throw.


Yeah, I probably had the exact same one before I got the new one. It was really only meant for cars. Mine gets my truck on 35's off the ground using the axles as the lift point, so yeah, it'll work on a Jeep.


----------



## Road Guy

Well its a newer craftsman but probably also garbage   (made in China) We had accrued some sears bucks and thought they were going to go out of business a few years ago and spent them on this. But I probably should have gotten the 5 ton..

In other news, the daughter (who I take full responsibility for raising) changed her own oil in her jeep yesterday.. I was available for consultation (Mainly where certain tools were located, and which storm drain to dump the used oil down, etc) but it was a site to see (one less than I have to do)


----------



## mudpuppy

It finally warmed up here again so I got back to fixing the brake line on my Jeep.  I ended up buying my own flaring tool for $25 from Amazon because the borrowed tool from the parts store was junk.  The end result isn't a work of art, but it works with no leaks so I'm happy.  Thanks for the advice @Supe


----------



## Supe

Glad to hear it!


----------



## Road Guy

Well after learning it really was the transmission I just watched the Tahoe drive away - after a week of no interest on craigslist one of the kids my son works with offered me $200 for it - I guess he needs a car and his dad is mechanically inclined so I just let them have it - They will probably get it running and lift it, add 37" tires... hope they do!

Sort of sad, that car has been to Yellowstone, The Tetons, MOAB, Arches, Sand Dunes, Grand Canyon, Montana, South / North Dakota &amp; 100+ ski trips through the Colorado snow, I put 150K of the 250K miles on it....


----------



## Road Guy

So I was putting on a rear tire carrier for the larger Jeep tires I had bought a while back but never put on- opened box and it’s missing 4 of the screws fuck...- annoying - go to Lowe’s - shit show crowded - decide not to wait and fight crowds - go to a small hardware store open but a bit of a drive - get the screws - they are a weird size - M12-1.75 x 25 MM - get home... Fuck.... one of the nuts I bought is a different thread - arghhhhhh - Dammit to Hell!!!!

Start going through endless boxes of unorganized random screws nuts and bolts in the garage....... there is a really old package... with one nut in it...... can barely read.......looks close.... holy f’n shit it is the size I need!!!!! And the crowd goes wild!!!!

I think I have had this particular bag for at least 15 years...

Dad life for the win!


----------



## Road Guy

^- So apparently this vendor has a bad habit of not providing the bolts - guess that what I get for ordering from Amazon (I just needed something - that wasnt $1000 to get me by so the tire doesn't fall of the tailgate -  If they had supplied the 4 bolts,  one of the other bolts I had to trim and cut some of the head off to fit (thank you Internets for that trick), this would have been a 30-45 min install - but since they didnt it ended up taking me 4 hours with trips to stores and digging through shit (also was lucky to find a cut off wheel at home) - but anyways, thinking about giving them the 1 star amazon review?  Or is that a Dick move? It does appear to work 

Also I  went to Harbor Freight yesterday - I purposefully went to the one a little further out of town (nice weather for a jeep ride) and less people - I cant believe I have never been to one of these, it reminded me a little of Northern Hardware (which was in Atlanta and other places and was a great place to window shop)  - I needed a long breaker bar to change my drive belt (which I still didn't get around to) but will defin go back and look around at a later point in time - saw lots of things the garage probably needs    but just didnt want to "linger"


----------



## jeb6294

I would definitely drop it a couple stars.  Doesn't do much good if they don't send the stuff you need to install it.  Most "Jeep people" are pretty hands on so chances are they could do what you did, but still....


----------



## Road Guy

I do go ahead and sandbag them with 2 stars - if it hadnt been during the corona stuff then it would have just been a quick trip to home depot and not the scavenger hunt - the mechanism that locks the carrier to the tailgate is also a PIA to get tight..

One of the benefits of my daughter also having the same model jeep as me, I don't feel bad buying something that is a little cheaper to use for a while and then I can hand it down to her when I get around to getting a better one


----------



## Road Guy

I know there are some other jeepers (&amp; smart folks) here but anyone got or seen a decent DIY Secure rear storage plans or ideas?

It doesnt need to be as nice as this (these are $800 bucks!) But If I could have something just to keep the honest people out I could run with the hard top off pretty much all summer and run the bikini top with doors off. (Desert Sun Sucks)

I was thinking about just getting some 3/4 IN Plywood and somehow cut to fit around the roll bars (I could use the same size bolts that secure the hardtop to the jeep. And then maybe a second system under with those large ammo crates you can lock (just to make it difficult) - I have tried to find just a tool box that I could place in there but thats been harder than I thought size wise???


----------



## Supe

If you can't work with metal, just use plywood, cover it with roll on bedliner, and make it so the filler panels behind the roll bar are separate.


----------



## Road Guy

I think I will give that a whirl next weekend - I even have some black marine carpet (no clue why I brought that from GA) in a box in the basement

I am mainly just looking for times when I make a few trips to stores and need to throw things in the back - dont normally run with any valuables


----------



## blybrook PE

Not directly automotive related, but another use for the hi lift: 

 








Pulled another rock out of the lawn. The frame is cobbled together from an old bow flex base and some unistrut.

Edit- sorry for the rotation issues. Posted from phone.


----------



## Road Guy

anyone have these??
https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/diy/a32612380/harbor-freight-jack-stands-recalled-failure-risk-see-models-affected/


----------



## Supe

I do, but thankfully mine are a different part #.


----------



## blybrook PE

I have a different part number, similar manufacturing though.


----------



## Supe

I can attest at mine not coming down due to worn out dies.  It's such a tight fit in there, I frequently have to kick the thing out from under the car to adjust, because if you don't have enough clearance to fully disengage the release which moves the stand up about 1/4, it absolutely isn't moving if the frame is still in the way.


----------



## Road Guy

my cheapo oversized tire carrier may be coming off sooner than expected, I have it as tight as it will go and this thing squeaks like a son of a bitch!  Haven't given it the old WD-40 treatment but it is driving me F'n nuts!


----------



## mudpuppy

I have a set of those harbor freight jackstands... just bought them in March.  Still need to go check the model number.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> my cheapo oversized tire carrier may be coming off sooner than expected, I have it as tight as it will go and this thing squeaks like a son of a bitch!  Haven't given it the old WD-40 treatment but it is driving me F'n nuts!


I would try regular grease in lieu of WD40.


----------



## Road Guy

It has this weird turn buckle system, that I cant seem to get as tight as it needs to be - anyone ever see something like this?


----------



## Supe

Is that where the squeak is coming from?  Lined spherical bearings shouldn't need any external lubrication.  It's possible there's a gap in the spacers?  Usually any kind of male/female setup like that has a jam nut with it too.


----------



## Road Guy

I think the tire is moving, every time i hit a bump - I think i need to tighten it and or add a thicker bushing up against the tailgate maybe?


----------



## Supe

There has to be something else that holds it in place, since those pivot freely and aren't meant to be loaded in shear.


----------



## Road Guy

I think it determines how tight the carrier is to the tailgate though (even though it swings) - I will get another angle pic of it closed

 Its just a total PIA to get these bolts tightened - but it could be coming from the bracket that holds the tire to the carrier - but somewhere there is some movement

this isnt my jeep but this is a good pic of what it looks like with the tire off


----------



## Road Guy

top down look at my vehicle


----------



## Supe

Is that one at the top a quick release pin?


----------



## MA_PE

I agree with Supe that the turnbuckles are carrying any vertical load.  The bolt going through the Spherical bearing might squeak.  Put some lithium grease on things (same as car door hinge) and that might do it.


----------



## Road Guy

do you mean the yellow circle or the blue?


----------



## Supe

The red one, lol


----------



## Road Guy

lol - that is actually my CB radio antenna mount


----------



## Supe

What in the Pennsyltucky is a CB mount doing on a Jeep in Colorado?!


----------



## Road Guy

Cell phones don’t work on the “good” trails usually but most importantly it just looks cool [emoji41]


----------



## Supe

I guess I should have said "what's it doing on YOUR Jeep"


----------



## Road Guy

I need to get the flex antenna because it broke off when I pulled in garage before the lift kit was installed...

Also after the lift I have to get a kid to push the garage door up as far as it will go to get it into the garage //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I need to get the flex antenna because it broke off when I pulled in garage before the left kit was installed...
> 
> Also after the lift I have to get a kid to push the garage door up as far as it will go to get it into the garage //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_sad.png


You might be able to adjust the limit switches on the opener to pull it open a little bit more.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah but that doesnt give the same feel as someone standing on a step ladder pushing the garage door up a few inches so your jeep fits in the garage    Once I got the hard top off I can go in and out freely without assistance.  In a perfect universe I will leave the bikini top on for the summer and have to do this one more time in the fall when it starts to snow..

In other news... since the tahoe died we have to get jr jr jr a ride before the eldest goes back to college in mid August.  Wife has a 09 highlander, so the thought was go with the _hand me down route_ the highlander to the eldest and give his rav4 to the youngest. I think this is the wife's reasoning to get her 4 Runner or Tacoma she has always wanted.  And the price is right right now, and most places have 0% financing - she made the mistake off talking to several dealers yesterday so now she is getting 10-15 text messages a day from these leaches..

The TRD package runs about an extra $4-$5K - We mainly just want regular 4WD - snow and forest road type trails - is the TRD package similar to the overprices "Rubicon" Package?

Actually the best deal so far as at a Toyota dealer up in Cheyenne. They will deliver for no charge!
 

its weird the highlander seems to come with a better "package" in terms of leather seats / heated seats - but to get that in the Tacoma or 4Runner you basically have to get the high end package ($50K)  which we are not going to be doing.  But at least thats what we seem to find in this area.. but that seems dumb to not offer that in the middle "package"


----------



## Supe

I think the TRD package gets you shocks, a skid plate, and a fancy shift knob, lol.


----------



## Road Guy

If thats all it is that seems like not much for $5K?  Maybe a nicer tire package and some electronics?  I never trust hitting a button will help me "off road"

At least with the Rubicon you get an actual front axle upgrade, oh I forgot, Toyota's dont do front axles any more..

Were looking to phase 2 of life when the youngest is out of HS and want to do some camping up Montana, Idaho, etc and would like to either get a small tear drop trailer or something that would be easy for this to pull. Wouldn't mind one of those roof top tents but they are a no go in Grizzly country..


----------



## Supe

I think it might be different wheels, too, but...


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> Were looking to phase 2 of life when the youngest is out of HS and want to do some camping up Montana, Idaho, etc and would like to either get a small tear drop trailer or something that would be easy for this to pull. Wouldn't mind one of those roof top tents but they are a no go in Grizzly country..


Same...Mini-Tex is out the door this fall. 

We're building one of these in the shop...Can't decide between the tent on top or the flip up roof.  Seems like the tent on top would really be better for overlanding, just because you don't lose interior storage space, but I don't think it's as cool...


----------



## Road Guy

I really like the roof top tents -  but the places we want to go usually require metal due to the bears!


----------



## envirotex

I thought roof top tents were preferable for bear-proofing...I think the flip top is the better option, but I think it cuts out some interior storage space.


----------



## Road Guy

The places we eyeballed for camping just require a metal “tent” / RV to stay there.

But I don’t know where I will store this trailer if we ever actually do it....


----------



## Master slacker

Ordered several things for the wife's Rav4 - front control arms, ball joints, and brake / rotor kit.  Suspension parts came in Tuesday.  Brake parts were supposed to be delivered by end of day tomorrow... then it didn't get picked up from the warehouse, therefore it was pushed out to Monday... then yesterday (for no stated reason) it is scheduled for Tuesday delivery... and NOW the bar code is "unreadable and replaced" so delivery is for next Wednesday.  Ugh.  My fault for waiting until the pads are razor thin before getting to their replacement but got dam!


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> I think the TRD package gets you shocks, a skid plate, and a fancy shift knob, lol.


Biggest thing it gets you is the $3,400 "TRD" sticker on the bed.


----------



## Road Guy

That's sort of what we were thinking.. I think the next model down from TRD has what she needs.  I think the lack of heated seats sucks at this option though, its very much appreciated here 

She dropped the idea of the 4runner, which is what she always wanted.  But I think the tacoma offers some more options for what we can do in terms of doing some travel camping and such.


----------



## envirotex

Master slacker said:


> Ordered several things for the wife's Rav4 - front control arms, ball joints, and brake / rotor kit.  Suspension parts came in Tuesday.  Brake parts were supposed to be delivered by end of day tomorrow... then it didn't get picked up from the warehouse, therefore it was pushed out to Monday... then yesterday (for no stated reason) it is scheduled for Tuesday delivery... and NOW the bar code is "unreadable and replaced" so delivery is for next Wednesday.  Ugh.  My fault for waiting until the pads are razor thin before getting to their replacement but got dam!


Better watch the rotors...No braking until next week.


----------



## MA_PE

envirotex said:


> Better watch the rotors...No braking until next week.


New rotors coming.....grind away :laugh:


----------



## Road Guy

So last weekend I finally replaced my serpentine drive belt (&amp; what a PIA that was)  never had one that made you remove the actual housing bracket for the alternator before - one of those jobs where it takes you longer to remove shit to get to the belt than it did to actually replace the belt.  I had to order this strange tension release device to even release the tension on the belt &amp; I was glad I did because even a really long breaker bar wouldnt have done it

But it had been squeaking pretty bad, I cleaned and greased the pulleys (one was stuck) but it still does some squeaking?  Id say its 90% less squeaking - normally while idling.. I don't know if I didn't get the pulleys all 100% free?  But I dont want to do that shit again.. The old belt didnt seem to have any signs of wear and tear (but its at 115K miles)  - Alternator is also new and I tested it and its cranking out the amperage that its supposed to?

Any thoughts?? I may just continue to turn the radio up loud..


----------



## MA_PE

I know Ford wants you to replace the tensioner pulley when the belt is replaced.  Not sure about other brands.


----------



## Road Guy

that would be a PIA on this model....


----------



## Road Guy

Supe said:


> The red one, lol
> 
> View attachment 17751


so one of you guys was supposed to ask if I had checked all the bolts on the carrier to make sure they were tight, well all the bolts in the yellow side were pretty loose, so at lunch I got out the impact gun and after a few oompa loomp's  they should be tight for a while


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> so one of you guys was supposed to ask if I had checked all the bolts on the carrier to make sure they were tight, well all the bolts in the yellow side were pretty loose, so at lunch I got out the impact gun and after a few oompa loomp's  they should be tight for a while


They appear to have lock washers, so if they were tight to begin with, they shouldn't have rattled loose. Did you add any "blue" loc-tite to them?

Are they course or fine thread? I believe I recall you stating that they could be metric. Hell, beg or borrow a welder and just tack the suckers in place. See them come loose now!


----------



## Road Guy

they are metric (thanks china) &amp; they do have lock nuts .  Maybe it just needed to be re tightened after some driving around..   I didnt add any loc tite to them but will grab some..  Drove around our shitty developer built Bloomfield, CO roads (that have a sewer lateral every 200 FT that caused the road to bump) &amp; no squeaky!


----------



## snickerd3

Had to get 4 new tires this weekend.  I swear someone must go around pounding nails into peoples tires or this style of tire is just too weak.  I noticed Friday night when  I left the store that there was a huge ass nail sticking out of the tire.  I just replaced a tire in late february for the same reason...and also about 6 months before that.  It always ends up in the sidewall...never in a place they can just plug.  Two new tires (Essentially) and two old tires with different enough thread wear, the tire place wouldn't do it.  But they did give only charge me for two of the four, other two were still new enough for warranty replacement.


----------



## Road Guy

Is there a lot of residential or commercial construction near you?  I recall going through several years with that and its so annoying.


----------



## snickerd3

not really.  Just the new home being built down the street but i purposely go the other direction to avoid that scenario.


----------



## Master slacker

SWEEEEET!!!  Check out the new brake system for my wife's Rav4 that arrived yesterday!  Can't wait to install!




No.  I'm not kidding.  This box, which was supposed to weigh &gt;50 lbf, contained ONLY a @#)$(#@ing "reversible rug pad".  WTF?!?  Good thing the yellow "CAUTION: HEAVY" sticker was on the box.  I guess that's why the delivery date changed so much.  Some asshole looted the box, put a #@)+ing rug pad in it, taped it up, and slapped a new label on it because it was "unreadable".


----------



## Supe

Definitely must have missed the reversible rug pads last time I ordered from Rock Auto.


----------



## Road Guy

damn-- reminds me of the old days at home depot people would return a router with a brick in it..

I am helping my son do the brake pads on his rav4 this weekend also - trying to decide if I charge him for labor?


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> I am helping my son do the brake pads on his rav4 this weekend also - trying to decide if I charge him for labor?


Case of beer and a pizza


----------



## Road Guy

2 more months he can buy beer!


----------



## Master slacker

Road Guy said:


> 2 more months he can buy beer!


... I'm pretty sure he could "find a case on the side of the road" and bring it home for you...


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> damn-- reminds me of the old days at home depot people would return a router with a brick in it..
> 
> I am helping my son do the brake pads on his rav4 this weekend also - trying to decide if what I charge him for labor?


FIFY


----------



## Road Guy

saw this the other day, what kind of contraption is this?


----------



## Supe

Citroen 2CV.  So simple, they make an early Beetle look like the space shuttle.


----------



## Ble_PE

Supe said:


> Citroen 2CV.  So simple, they make an early Beetle look like the space shuttle.


I was going to say Herbie's drunk uncle with a toupee...


----------



## Road Guy

I thought it was a beetle until I got closer to it - I think I have fatter tires on my mountain bike..


----------



## Supe

Believe it or not, people actually race those things, and its amazingly hilarious.  Close racing and they slide EVERYWHERE.


----------



## MA_PE

Kurt (Richard Dreyfuss) drove one in American Graffitti.


----------



## jeb6294

Guess this will work here...

So I did a thing yesterday. Been looking for a while now (up to 5 hours away) and ended up finding this one about 30 miles away. The factory shut down so inventory is slim to none right now. Of course I get it right before 4th of July weekend when everything would be ridiculous.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> Citroen 2CV.  So simple, they make an early Beetle look like the space shuttle.


And holder of the worlds ugliest vehicle title until Pontiac introduced the Aztek and Chevrolet came up with the current grill on their HD trucks.


----------



## Supe

The funniest thing about the Aztek is that if they sold that thing today with a minor facelift got rid of the plastic door cladding, I bet they'd sell a SHITLOAD of them.  With all the people looking for outdoorsy stuff to do today, they would fawn over a car with the built in tent, removable cooler arm rest, and some of the other stuff they were doing that was ahead of its time.  Heck, even I'd drive this around for a weekend!  Even the awful grill doesn't look as bad as the Silverado, BMW, or Lexus grills that are out there right now.


----------



## jeb6294

When the new Polaris RZR's came out, people were not impressed, with the looks anyway. They were calling it the Polaris Aztek.


----------



## Road Guy

I saw one of those about roll over backwards Sunday - it was a very steep section of rocky trail and I was just like HFS its going over! But it just caught some air- I think they hit the trail a little too fast.. wish I had rigged up the go pro on my dashboard..

You should bring yours out west - this is a crummy pic, but the drop offs on these old mining roads are legit!




I think it would be fun to have one though, I am always torn between having something I dont have to worry about driving home (like the jeep)


----------



## MA_PE

Supe said:


> The funniest thing about the Aztek is that if they sold that thing today with a minor facelift got rid of the plastic door cladding, I bet they'd sell a SHITLOAD of them.  With all the people looking for outdoorsy stuff to do today, they would fawn over a car with the built in tent, removable cooler arm rest, and some of the other stuff they were doing that was ahead of its time.  Heck, even I'd drive this around for a weekend!  Even the awful grill doesn't look as bad as the Silverado, BMW, or Lexus grills that are out there right now.


Back in the day I had an Aztec for a rental car.  I was very impressed with the functionality.  You’re absolutely correct that the styling was ahead of its time.  The boxy transformer look is quite similar to a lot of vehicles sold today.  Especially some Toyotas kias etc.


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> Back in the day I had an Aztec for a rental car.  I was very impressed with the functionality.  You’re absolutely correct that the styling was ahead of its time.  The boxy transformer look is quite similar to a lot of vehicles sold today.  Especially some Toyotas kias etc.


Ahead of it's time.....in this case it just means that there are a lot more ugly vehicles being manufactured now than 13 years ago.


----------



## Supe

While that part is definitely true, it did have some features that OEM's are now "introducing" like an original idea.


----------



## Road Guy

When did the Aztec come out- sounds like the dirty bastards at Subaru may have pirated some ideas?


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I saw one of those about roll over backwards Sunday - it was a very steep section of rocky trail and I was just like HFS its going over! But it just caught some air- I think they hit the trail a little too fast.. wish I had rigged up the go pro on my dashboard..
> 
> You should bring yours out west - this is a crummy pic, but the drop offs on these old mining roads are legit!
> 
> I think it would be fun to have one though, I am always torn between having something I dont have to worry about driving home (like the jeep)


That's how this whole RZR thing came to be...they flew the wife out to drive one of the medical units from Phoenix to Colorado and she went through Moab. So, that's the long term plan, get out west to do some wheeling. RZR first, toy hauler will be a few years down the road.

I actually had a Jeep about 20 years ago that I took wheeling, but there were two things I didn't like: #1 it was also my daily driver so I couldn't be too ridiculous, and #2 there weren't many places I could take it short of driving down to TN. There was one place about 1.5 hours away, but it's not great. When the wife started getting excited about a RZR I reverted back to #1 until I did some searching. Apparently SxS's and ATV's have blown up enough that now there are at least 4 or 5 nice places within about 2 hours of us. Bump that up to 4 hours and we're in the middle of the Hatfield &amp; McCoy system in WV. You could ride there for a week and not see everything.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> When did the Aztec come out- sounds like the dirty bastards at Subaru may have pirated some ideas?


July 2000


----------



## jeb6294

First outing with the RZR...worst day ever!!!

Wildcat Off-road Park is about 150 miles south of us. Loaded the two boys up and headed down this past Saturday. Got to within about 20 miles and trailer tire explodes on I-75. We’ve got roadside assistance through our car insurance, USAA, which was about the only thing I could think to do. Well, 5 hours later, the rollback showed up to load the trailer/RZR and take it as far as Lexington. My sister/BIL were able to borrow a trailer and they met us there. He was able to buy a wheel/tire before they left that wasn’t the right size, but it was close enough that we figured if the bolt pattern was right, it would at least get the trailer home. Switched the RZR to the good trailer and put the “close enough” wheel on our trailer and started the drive home. Finally made it back to the house at 11:15pm.

Went on Amazon the next morning and found a wheel/tire assembly that should have plenty of load capacity so I got pair so trailer will have two new shoes. The “close enough” wheel/tire will stay on the trailer as a spare.


----------



## Supe

I feel your pain.  I blew out a tire on the race trailer once, and my spare actually had the wrong bolt pattern.  Ended up riding the rim down the ramp and a couple blocks away to a Discount Tire.  Thankfully I was close enough to limp it along!


----------



## Road Guy

dont have too much fun or the fun sucker / jeep police will get you!


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> I feel your pain.  I blew out a tire on the race trailer once, and my spare actually had the wrong bolt pattern.  Ended up riding the rim down the ramp and a couple blocks away to a Discount Tire.  Thankfully I was close enough to limp it along!


Thought about it but we were about 7 miles from the next exit. If I’d have taken off the cheap plastic wheel cover and seen that the other wheel looked like crap too, I might have done it though. At the time, I was thinking I didn’t want to ruin the wheel. Jack just turned 13, I also gave some thought to getting the RZR off the trailer and having him drive it up the emergency lane with me behind him with my flashers on to get to the exit. If I’d have known we were going to be sitting there that long, we may have thought about it a little harder.
 



Road Guy said:


> dont have too much fun or the fun sucker / jeep police will get you!


Where is that at? I’ve heard of DNR checking coolers for booze at some of the public land parks, but that’s about it.


----------



## leggo PE

I saw a boat on a trailer on the side of the highway recently, and I was like, who would leave a boat in a trailer on the side of the highway?? My husband pointed it out that maybe a tire had blown on the trailer. That made sense to me.


----------



## blybrook PE

Trailers are left on the side of the highway all the time up here. Typically it's due to either a blown tire (or tires), lost hub, bad bearings  or broken axle. 

About 2 weeks ago, saw a posting that on craigslist for someone searching for their trailer that they left on the side of the road due to a bad hub (they had been waiting for parts to arrive on Monday). Someone else had driven by, saw it and returned with a flat bed trailer later in the evening, loaded it up and headed home. Individual was able to recover it eventually with police assistance.

IF you have to leave a trailer, leave someone with it and come back with the parts ASAP. Nearly all of my trailers have the same tire size &amp; bolt pattern, which matches the tow vehicle. Only the hubs / bearings are my downfall should one go bad while traveling. I have been working to use the same tire/rim on everything, including the truck. So I always have a few spares with me.


----------



## Road Guy

Jeb - that was down in Ouray and there always seems to be folks riding to fast in places where you can literallly go off a cliff and never be seen again so during most of July they have the law dogs (Fun Suckers) around to try and discourage people from doing something stupid.


----------



## jeb6294

I’d heard that state troopers will sit with your stuff so you can go get something to fix it, but we were in the middle of nowhere and I didn’t know where anything was to get a new wheel and tire. While I was on the phone with USAA, I had Jack call my mom to make sure she was around in case she had to come down and get the boys and get them home because I *was not* going to leave the RZR sitting there on the trailer. That thing would have been gone before we got to the next exit.


----------



## Road Guy




----------



## Supe

Chevy - "we need something unique and good looking to bring to market!"

Designer - "OK, get this.  We build a crossover, and put the Silverado's face on it!"


----------



## Road Guy

I need to see the Bronco in person, but I really like the look, Glad to see there is an auto manufacturer that isnt bending over to serve the Prius community...


----------



## Flyer_PE




----------



## csb

I wanted an Aztec back in the day!


----------



## Road Guy

in my early years of HS (before I could drive) I wanted one of these Isuzu Amigos / Sport - There was one that was always advertised in this scuba diving magazine I would get so I always thought It would be cool. and then I remembered my parents were poor teachers and I got their hand me down 1983 ford escort GL Wagon, then an 84 Ford Ranger, then a CJ-5 toward the end of my senior year, which I never should have sold   that thing would be worth its weight in bitcoin right now..


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> in my early years of HS (before I could drive) I wanted one of these Isuzu Amigos / Sport - There was one that was always advertised in this scuba diving magazine I would get so I always thought It would be cool. and then I remembered my parents were poor teachers and I got their hand me down 1983 ford escort GL Wagon, then an 84 Ford Ranger, then a CJ-5 toward the end of my senior year, which I never should have sold   that thing would be worth its weight in bitcoin right now..


Holy shit?!?! I was all about that exact same car! And I remember first seeing it in my SCUBA magazine. Like you, I also fell quite a ways short....Ford EXP. But, I was also an idiot. When we looking for a car for me to drive, a friend of the family who restored cars had a ‘48 Ford he was selling. 302, 4 speed, inside was all done, but the outside was in grey primer so I didn’t want it...I wanted the pretty lookin’ little red car. Geez I was an idiot. On the other hand, I probably would have killed myself in a hot rod.


----------



## jeb6294

So, sitting stranded along I-75 is squarely on me for: 1) assuming the guy I got the trailer from wasn’t a complete moron, and 2) not checking the tires closer than I did.

1) First red flag should have been the fact the tires he put on it weren’t even trailer tires. They were standard all-season car tires.

2) The tires didn’t look bad when I checked the pressure the day before we left, but that was sitting in the driveway cold. After 4 hours of interstate driving, the one that didn’t blow up is all cracked to hell. I’m not even sure how old these things were because I had to lookup the codes for tire date codes because it kinda looks like the code is pre-2000. If I’m reading this right, best case is they were made the 31st week of 1999.


----------



## Road Guy

lol that is pretty funny - I actually used to have that pic from the magazine in my old scout footlocker but I think one of my kids took it out when they took it to summer camp


----------



## MA_PE

A friend of mine had an amigo back in the day.  We picked up a swing set for my kids and put the roof down to load it.  He said that was the first and only time in the 1.5 yrs he owned it that the top was down.


----------



## Road Guy




----------



## envirotex

jeb6294 said:


> So, sitting stranded along I-75 is squarely on me for: 1) assuming the guy I got the trailer from wasn’t a complete moron, and 2) not checking the tires closer than I did.
> 
> 1) First red flag should have been the fact the tires he put on it weren’t even trailer tires. They were standard all-season car tires.
> 
> 2) The tires didn’t look bad when I checked the pressure the day before we left, but that was sitting in the driveway cold. After 4 hours of interstate driving, the one that didn’t blow up is all cracked to hell. I’m not even sure how old these things were because I had to lookup the codes for tire date codes because it kinda looks like the code is pre-2000. If I’m reading this right, best case is they were made the 31st week of 1999.
> 
> View attachment 18132


3-digit DOT code is pre-2000...

Mr. Tex said do not drive with that tire. I said, too late...


----------



## Supe

I know people who run car tires in lieu of trailer tires, but age aside, those have the classic symptom of sitting deflated outdoors for a looong time before putting air in them.


----------



## Road Guy

Was bored AF and caught this gem of a wagon on BAck to the Future -

Oldsmobile?


----------



## Supe

AMC Eagle

Fun fact - the AMC Eagle was the first production car with full time AWD, and some consider it to be the first true crossover.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^It was a good idea.  Unfortunately, it suffered from AMC quality control.


----------



## Road Guy

So I was trying to take off these hinge covers on my daughters jeep over the weekend, on the other side of the jeep they had started to cause some rusting in between the actual hinge and this cover but I cant get this one off. I tried 2X to tap and die it out, but both times the tap broke off, maybe I will try a 3rd time, but didnt want to mess up the threads in the actual door?

Any thoughts? I was going to take the door off and then maybe use an angle grinder to remove most of the plate so I could get some type of vice lock wrench on the nut?


----------



## blybrook PE

Have you applied any heat to the bolt heads / assembly? Some manufacturers have taken to utilizing the loc-tite that requires heat to remove so they don't rattle out while driving. 

Otherwise, remove the door, get out the grinder and go to town on removing material around the bolt heads. That should get enough heat in there to start loosening up the dissimilar metal corrosion that is going on and allow you to break them loose. May want to soak the heads / bolts with PB Blaster or WD 40 for a few hours before applying the heat.


----------



## Supe

Agree on PB blaster soak.  Then I would hammer a slightly oversized torx bit into the hole and hit it with an impact driver.


----------



## Road Guy

its a hex head (Allen wrench) - so maybe the torx idea would work if I can generate some teeth for it to grab onto

Its weird none of the others were hard to unscrew, I think someone used a power tool to put this one on and went a little too far..


----------



## Supe

That's the idea, the hex is presumably rounded out by now, the slightly oversized torx hammered in lets it grip.

If its ever stuck beyond belief, you can also weld a nut to the head and turn it out that way.  That's my go-to in most "this ain't ever coming out" cases.


----------



## Road Guy

So you're saying I should go buy a welder before the wife gets home from work tonight?

I can dig it!


----------



## Supe

Absolutely.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> So you're saying I should go buy a welder before the wife gets home from work tonight?
> 
> I can dig it!


Over half of my current fleet of power tools has been purchased with this strategy!


----------



## Road Guy

then I will just need to watch some youtube videos on how to weld..


----------



## Supe

You may want to pick up a grinder while you're at it!


----------



## blybrook PE

I've used the welded nut several times. Most recently on the weight distribution hitch. Snapped the bolt off 3/4 of the way through the casting, but was able to disassemble far enough to get to the back side.  Soaked in WD40 over night, then welded a nut on the back side. Between the heat and soak, bolt turned right now and I was able to replace.

The small, 110V mig welders run around $150-200 for what you're trying to do. Easier to use than a stick welder, especially for the smaller diameter hardware.


----------



## jeb6294

envirotex said:


> 3-digit DOT code is pre-2000...
> 
> Mr. Tex said do not drive with that tire. I said, too late...


That’s the one that (somehow) didn’t blow up. It’s currently still in the back of the truck. The wheel looks pretty rough, but if it’s still usable, I may get a good trailer tire thrown on there so I have a proper spare.


----------



## jeb6294

Kids are at grandparents/on vacay with mom so I took the RZR out on my own today. Not my first choice of places, little park called Haspin Acres in Indiana, but I just wanted to get it out somewhere besides driving circles around the yard. On one hand, it was really nice because there were only about a dozen people there. On the other hand, there were only about a dozen people there so there wasn’t much help around if you got in trouble. Since it was just me, I tried to take it pretty easy, but still had a ball.

I did get busted...stepson FaceTimed me mid-ride and wasn’t happy I went out when he wasn’t here.

This hill doesn’t look too bad in the video, but when you’re looking at sky when you get to the top, it’s steeper than it looks.


----------



## envirotex

Only got the audio.  Sounds fun, anyway...


----------



## jeb6294




----------



## Flyer_PE

Combination "After" and "Before" pics.  Bought this little beast 4 days out of college in 1990. 200 hp and 200 ft-lb of torque out of a 2.0L engine was pretty respectable back then.  Now, after 30 years of ownership and 103 k miles, I just put down a deposit on an upgrade to a newer generation engine and a boost to roughly 315 hp.  Wheels, tires, brakes, and a freshening up of the paint to follow.  Unlike the tractor project, I'm hiring out chunks of this one because I just want to drive the car.


----------



## Road Guy

So its the same car you have had all these years?


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> So its the same car you have had all these years?


Yep.  The very same car.  Came close to trading in in a couple of times but always ended up keeping it.  Not that many options out there for rwd mid-engine sports cars and I know how this one was treated from day one.


----------



## Road Guy

thats really cool, I have never had the space to keep something that long!


----------



## Flyer_PE

^It helped a lot that my plane was a Cessna.  That car spent a lot of time parked under the right wing.


----------



## Violator




----------



## Flyer_PE

Finally, that last badge I need for the '84 Escort I've been restoring:


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> thats really cool, I have never had the space to keep something that long!


I held onto my 76 trans am for ~32 years before I sold it ~6 years ago.  Car was in nice shape but needed to be dismantled, cleaned, and reassembled.  Didn’t have the time or energy ( or money) to undertake it so I bought a ‘02 trans am.  Yeah, the “new” one is now 18 years old.   :B


----------



## Road Guy

So the wife is buying a Tacoma (used) we always think about getting something new and then end up with the more sensible decision to save $15K (which seems to trickle down into insurance,  tag fees and such)

But I was impressed she has spent the week researching and getting quotes to get the "camper" top installed, Snug Top, Lear?,  power installed? Fan options?  Oh yeah she must have a ski rack installed too- But I guess her plan is to do the typical out West Tacoma conversion to a mini camper (not sure how my 74IN self sleeps in a 5 FT truck bed? Sort of funny she has been sending me these "Pinterst" ideas to build a deck in the truck bed for storage, etc... (sounds like work to me)

I didn't have the heart to tell her that if I dont end up getting some travel work soon I am calling this western venture quits next year and taking a job with my friend in Tampa who owns a small Construction Management firm.....  I guess I can haul my 40 FT Center Console Offshore boat with the Tacoma?


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> ...  I guess I can haul my 40 FT Center Console Offshore boat with the Tacoma?


----------



## kevo_55

My parents just bought a Highlander.

I'm sure it's fully loaded but there is a camera that can look all around the car!


----------



## Road Guy

MA_PE - I said Center Console Boat! 

We have a 09  Highlander now, its actually a really comfortable car.  Were giving it to the elder kid, it has the Full Time AWD and with his trips back and forth to South Dakota to school it will be better than the Rav4 he currently has ( junior RG gets the Rav4) - its a viscous cycle..

I was surprised how different the features are on the Highlander Vs the Tacoma, you really have to spend a lot more money on the Tacoma to get the same features as the highlander.  I don't really like the new mini van style of the highlander, but that seems to be the way most cars are going.

But the wife is very excited about getting her "truck" lol


----------



## Dleg

My daughter's moving back in with us now that she's graduated college. I need to get a car so she can look for a job / help out around the house etc. I'm thinking now that rather than buy some crappy used Corolla or whatever, I should buy something for myself and let her drive my 4Runner. 

I'm thinking about a Toyota 86. Similar (but not exactly) to @Flyer_PE, I got to drive a Celica for a while back in 1990 (I think it was an 88 or 89) and that was a really fun car. 

But I'll probably just get her a used Corolla or whatever because the only dent on my 4Runner was caused by her....


----------



## MA_PE

Figured id post this in the automotive forum.  A guy on a car forum I frequent just posted that he bought all the parts to build a clone of he Corvette Summer movie car.  The front and rear clips are new fiberglass parts supposedly molded from the same molds that made the movie car.  :B

for the uninformed 

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/remember-mark-hamill-drove-corvette-summer/?galleryImageId=864061


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> Figured id post this in the automotive forum.  A guy on a car forum I frequent just posted that he bought all the parts to build a clone of he Corvette Summer movie car.  The front and rear clips are new fiberglass parts supposedly molded from the same molds that made the movie car.  :B
> 
> for the uninformed
> 
> https://www.hotrod.com/articles/remember-mark-hamill-drove-corvette-summer/?galleryImageId=864061


While I admire his ambition and I'm not at all bothered by the demise of a post-72 C3 'Vette, I've always thought that car was ugly as hell.  Is he going to change it over to RHD while he's at it?  If it's a Corvette forum, I gotta think he's going to catch hell from purists.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Dleg said:


> My daughter's moving back in with us now that she's graduated college. I need to get a car so she can look for a job / help out around the house etc. I'm thinking now that rather than buy some crappy used Corolla or whatever, I should buy something for myself and let her drive my 4Runner.
> 
> I'm thinking about a Toyota 86. Similar (but not exactly) to @Flyer_PE, I got to drive a Celica for a while back in 1990 (I think it was an 88 or 89) and that was a really fun car.
> 
> But I'll probably just get her a used Corolla or whatever because the only dent on my 4Runner was caused by her....


The old Celicas were fun cars.  I've always liked the boxy ones from the early '80s.  I think most of them rusted completely out by around '92 though.


----------



## jeb6294

Flyer_PE said:


> While I admire his ambition and I'm not at all bothered by the demise of a post-72 C3 'Vette,* I've always thought that car was ugly as hell*.  Is he going to change it over to RHD while he's at it?  If it's a Corvette forum, I gotta think he's going to catch hell from purists.


 What he said....


----------



## Supe

It's not just ugly as hell.  It may be the ugliest movie car of all time, period.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> The old Celicas were fun cars.  I've always liked the boxy ones from the early '80s.  I think most of them rusted completely out by around '92 though.


My dad had one of those early 80's Celicas until 2002.  And the floor pan was almost completely rusted though.


----------



## envirotex

Chrome bumper Vette is on my bucket list of cars, with the t-tops, of course.  I saw a conversion recently where you could take of the nose of a 73 and newer and put a chrome bumper on it.  Have to do something to make those cars more desirable...Having had one in the shop, they are notoriously rickety. SO bad.


----------



## Flyer_PE

^I like the looks of the pre-73 C3 'Vette but I'd rather have something from the late '60s with a good old fashioned steel body.


----------



## Road Guy

So this is odd, we were buying a used Tacoma from a Toyota Dealer here, I guess its a recent trade in and I am going on week 2 of "we cant seem to locate the Title" - It was a Kansas City trade in. The price was defin what we wanted, I guess I am going to take this as a sign and find another one...  although there isn't a ton of inventory of 4WD out there (unless you like white or grey) - Sales guy hasnt nagged me in a week which is also a sign (-100) , we didnt put any money out, just put up with a salesman for a few hours on a Tuesday (at least it wasn't a weekend)..


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> So this is odd, we were buying a used Tacoma from a Toyota Dealer here, I guess its a recent trade in and I am going on week 2 of "we cant seem to locate the Title" - It was a Kansas City trade in. The price was defin what we wanted, I guess I am going to take this as a sign and find another one...  although there isn't a ton of inventory of 4WD out there (unless you like white or grey) - Sales guy hasnt nagged me in a week which is also a sign (-100) , we didnt put any money out, just put up with a salesman for a few hours on a Tuesday (at least it wasn't a weekend)..


If the sales guy isn't being a pest, something is wrong on their end or it's already sold to somebody else.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah its weird, its still sitting on the lot with a pending sign on it -  everyone these days like to blame the coronavirus for everything.. 

One time I traded in my beater Durnago without the title, they let me because I was buying a new car,  (the title was in the box of moving stuff when we moved from Atlanta to here) but once they sold the car at auction they were on my ass to get them the title.. I wonder if something similar did happened? 

Mrs RG found one she liked better at the carmax so well see... gonna slow roll it for sure..


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> While I admire his ambition and I'm not at all bothered by the demise of a post-72 C3 'Vette, I've always thought that car was ugly as hell.  Is he going to change it over to RHD while he's at it?  If it's a Corvette forum, I gotta think he's going to catch hell from purists.


http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=82740.0
It’s actually a trans am site.  Corvette forums and most of the members are a bunch of self-important asshats.  The guys on this TA site are pretty non-judgemental. LOL.  No plans to make it RHD

i guess some corvette guys like it too.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-parts-for-sale-wanted/4147461-corvette-summer-replica-parts.html

‘although it took 2 years to sell the parts



jeb6294 said:


> What he said....


I get the “ugly” but it SCREAMS 80s in a cool kind of way.  I’d love to have/drive it around.  



Supe said:


> It's not just ugly as hell.  It may be the ugliest movie car of all time, period.


You’ve never seen seen the urban cowboy TA (alright it wasn’t a real movie car, just based on a movie) but that is uuugghlllyyy

https://www.autoblog.com/2007/11/11/catch-travolta-fever-on-ebay/


----------



## MA_PE

Flyer_PE said:


> ^I like the looks of the pre-73 C3 'Vette but I'd rather have something from the late '60s with a good old fashioned steel body.


I believe all corvettes from 53 to present were fiberglass/ composite body panels


----------



## MA_PE

envirotex said:


> Chrome bumper Vette is on my bucket list of cars, with the t-tops, of course.  I saw a conversion recently where you could take of the nose of a 73 and newer and put a chrome bumper on it.  Have to do something to make those cars more desirable...Having had one in the shop, they are notoriously rickety. SO bad.


All c3 corvette coupes have t-tops.


----------



## Flyer_PE

MA_PE said:


> I believe all corvettes from 53 to present were fiberglass/ composite body panels


You are correct, they are all fiberglass.  When I made that statement, the picture in my head was a '66-'70 Chevelle or other A-body.  Although I'd also be pretty happy with a '67-'73 Camaro.  I like the looks of the Corvettes from those years, I just don't want to own and maintain one.


----------



## Supe

Flyer_PE said:


> If the sales guy isn't being a pest, something is wrong on their end or it's already sold to somebody else.


If its a trade-in and the PO didn't pay off the loan, then they usually have to get the title from the bank/credit bureau that was financing it.  But, if it's shady that they had it on the lot without having the title signed over free and clear.


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> So this is odd, we were buying a used Tacoma from a Toyota Dealer here, I guess its a recent trade in and I am going on week 2 of "we cant seem to locate the Title" - It was a Kansas City trade in. The price was defin what we wanted, I guess I am going to take this as a sign and find another one...  although there isn't a ton of inventory of 4WD out there (unless you like white or grey) - Sales guy hasnt nagged me in a week which is also a sign (-100) , we didnt put any money out, just put up with a salesman for a few hours on a Tuesday (at least it wasn't a weekend)..


+1 For a Tacoma. One of the best off-road platforms available in the US.


----------



## Road Guy

I'm looking forward to finding out - well see how it compares to the Jeep.  There is an unlimited number of old mining roads here that make great jeep trails but you just never see Tacoma's on them, occasionally you see a really old modified 4 Runner- But i think they seem to stick to the Forest Service type Roads where your less likely to get a scratch (thats my impression) 

Were having it transferred from an store in Austin, but the wife probably isnt going to be up for taking this to Ouray just yet:

We are headed there next week, looking forward to hitting Black Bear Pass.


----------



## envirotex

MA_PE said:


> All c3 corvette coupes have t-tops.


Unless it's a convertible.


----------



## MA_PE

envirotex said:


> Unless it's a convertible.


Then it would be a roadster and not a coupe.


----------



## envirotex

But it still doesn't have t-tops...Anyway, we've had a 78 in our shop, and it has been twisted so much, I don't think it will ever be right.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah but you cant do this in a Camero..



Some easy jeeping down in Telluride - need to leave the wife at camp next time, she wasnt a fan of the drop off..


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> I'm looking forward to finding out - well see how it compares to the Jeep.  There is an unlimited number of old mining roads here that make great jeep trails but you just never see Tacoma's on them, occasionally you see a really old modified 4 Runner- But i think they seem to stick to the Forest Service type Roads where your less likely to get a scratch (thats my impression)
> 
> Were having it transferred from an store in Austin, but the wife probably isnt going to be up for taking this to Ouray just yet:
> 
> We are headed there next week, looking forward to hitting Black Bear Pass.


Interesting. My experience has been anyone with a JK+newer really doesn't wheel too hard, because they don't want to mess up their vehicle. Now anything older than a TJ, they wheel correctly. Though, in my old club there was a dude with a JK that followed me anywhere. The majority of our club was Tacos. There was a 4runner, a Land Rover, and a few jeeps. I've seen some Taco guys take bypasses because they don't want to get their truck scratched, but they usually had just bought it the week before and have never been off-roading before.

I may be an anomaly, but my '15 Taco has probably 100 racing stripes down each side. No reason to buff them out if I'm just going to get more. I've been thinking about getting a wrap for the past few years, but never pulled the trigger.

My views on off-road vehicle performance might not be the best. I've owned two TJs and two Tacos. The Tacos were 2012+, so comparing the TJs with them isn't really fair.

I've out-wheeled Jeeps many times, and _been _out-wheeled by Jeeps multiple times, so . I think tires and driving ability matter more.

You ever watch any 4WD Action? They have some nice long format videos.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Yeah but you cant do this in a Camero..


Oh ye of little faith


----------



## Road Guy

I dont disagree (about the driver ability) - the trails out here are 90% rock and any stock vehicle is going to have a bad time.

Ive owned a CJ, YJ, TJ, now a JKU - (but event the JK's are getting up there in age) - I really think my YJ was the best I had for straight up wheeling..

In reality the wheel base on the JKU's are almost too long for some of the harder trails here (Which are old mining roads that have lots of 90 degree turns and very limited room for error) - Id really like to get my daughters 08 JK (2 Door) lifted and take wheeling because they handle so much better..

I dont know if you are familiar with the more "legendary" routes in Ouray / Telluride (Engineer Pass and Black Bear Pass) - but there were so many people in Ouray this summer they had cops at the trail head and they turned away ANY stock vehicle, Jeep or Toyota ( I dont think anyone else makes anything that is really a stock off road vehicle) but there were plenty of pissed off people getting turned around - I was glad to get the nod to go ahead - but it started raining a few miles from the summit and I decided to not risk it and turned around short of the "summit"


----------



## Road Guy

Supe said:


> Oh ye of little faith


KIT would dig that!


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> I dont disagree (about the driver ability) - the trails out here are 90% rock and any stock vehicle is going to have a bad time.
> 
> Ive owned a CJ, YJ, TJ, now a JKU - (but event the JK's are getting up there in age) - I really think my YJ was the best I had for straight up wheeling..
> 
> In reality the wheel base on the JKU's are almost too long for some of the harder trails here (Which are old mining roads that have lots of 90 degree turns and very limited room for error) - Id really like to get my daughters 08 JK (2 Door) lifted and take wheeling because they handle so much better..
> 
> I dont know if you are familiar with the more "legendary" routes in Ouray / Telluride (Engineer Pass and Black Bear Pass) - but there were so many people in Ouray this summer they had cops at the trail head and they turned away ANY stock vehicle, Jeep or Toyota ( I dont think anyone else makes anything that is really a stock off road vehicle) but there were plenty of pissed off people getting turned around - I was glad to get the nod to go ahead - but it started raining a few miles from the summit and I decided to not risk it and turned around short of the "summit"


I haven't. I'd like to try some of the trails around here. I've been told a lot of good things about them. Actual rock crawling would be new to me. Growing up in FL, we had mud and red clay. The red clay would make for some nice climbing when the road eroded from rain. Now going through a swamp, I enjoy the enclosed cab of the truck. 1) To keep water and mud out, 2) to keep the heat out, and 3) to keep the mosquitoes out. Many times I have, and have seen Jeeps drive through the water just to get the inside soaked (because doors off). Not a whole lot of fun for the rest of the trip.


----------



## Orchid PE

Dang, all this off-road talk makes me want to get back together with my old club.


----------



## Road Guy

I am looking forward to seeing what the Tacoma does, I do think they are good vehicles (my wife said many times as we were driving this past weekend) "no way in hell, I am taking her truck here!"   

Whats the largest tire I can put on a Tacoma without a lift?

I never saw the desire to get soaking wet either - The wheeling in the SE is so different from here - when I lived in GA and would hit the Appalachian areas it was more of a mud / water obstacle but here its more of a "what part is going to break" or what are you going to snag off the bottom of the vehicle because you dont have enough clearance..

Google Image search "Black Bear Pass" you will want to make a trip this way one summer!


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> I am looking forward to seeing what the Tacoma does, I do think they are good vehicles (my wife said many times as we were driving this past weekend) "no way in hell, I am taking her truck here!"
> 
> Whats the largest tire I can put on a Tacoma without a lift?
> 
> I never saw the desire to get soaking wet either - The wheeling in the SE is so different from here - when I lived in GA and would hit the Appalachian areas it was more of a mud / water obstacle but here its more of a "what part is going to break" or what are you going to snag off the bottom of the vehicle because you dont have enough clearance..


I think 31.

I'm running 33s with a 3" lift. You can fit 33s on stock ride height, but you'll hit the body mounts/frame during up travel. I've ran 35's on 3" before, but they barely fit. Anything &gt; 35 you'll 100% need re-gearing. Now, you can get some 33s that can work, but you'll have to go with something thin (pizza cutters).

I think 33's are great; no re-gearing needed, and stock UCAs should work. Now, you will need wheels with -15 or less offset to work with stock UCAs. I believe all stock Tacoma wheels are -30. I stole some 4Runner wheels off a newer model and they work fantastically, plus they have the Toyota logo. Otherwise you'll hit the UCAs during up travel. Oh the woes of independent suspension. Great for clearance, though.


----------



## Road Guy

Good to know,  I dont know what size is on this one to be honest, will find out Friday when it 'arrives' 

I've got 35's and its similar where if you go to 37's you have to re-gear, If it wasn't my DD i would have gotten 37's.  I probably should re gear at 35's but its not very common with the JK - I still have good acceleration up hill out here.

We looked at a 2013 Tacoma before this one and I didn't really care for the front suspension set up,  but I think that is typical for most trucks?   

Were mainly looking at something we can crash in at trail heads and maybe for an early jump to ski day ( not sure how I will sleep in a 5 ft bed though) - Like anyplace else anything fun to do is crowded so we have learned that say if you want to bag a 14'er you need to leave at 0400 to not have a ton of people around you - so this initially will be a mini camper type vehicle.


----------



## envirotex

So this happened...


----------



## Road Guy

Made in China?


----------



## envirotex

Yep.


----------



## Orchid PE




----------



## Road Guy

But is that XJ for sale and where is it //content.invisioncic.com/r86644/emoticons/default_wink.png


----------



## Road Guy

pretty intense project over the weekend ( /s) .. the adding of 35 IN tires to the vehicle didnt leave a lot of room between the rock slider trim and the rear wheel, so pulled them off, cut about an inch off (thats what she said), and put them back on - off an on about an hour of work that lingered over two days for some reason.. end cap on this side took a beating getting it loose..

I actually liked the look of it without the rock sliders, may take them off, seems like they were a great source of dirt collection and rust mainly..


----------



## Orchid PE

Is this the Jeep?


----------



## Road Guy

yeah, supposed to pick up the Tacoma tonight..


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I actually liked the look of it without the rock sliders, may take them off, seems like they were a great source of dirt collection and rust mainly.


If it's a mall crawler that's fine, but if there's a chance it could see any rocks...those rocker panels don't get along very well with rocks.


----------



## Road Guy

Everything here is a chance for rocks.. but its more so the 1000 ft cliff next to the rock you really have to worry about, I would like to replace them with something that sat a little lower from the body, when I removed them a huge pile of dirt and dust landed on the floor...


----------



## Road Guy

Here are some fun pics from a trail group that helps people out of dumb situations out here, Ive driven most of these routes!




Solid Weld job there @Supe




Assuming something gave way or turned too late?




The slant on this trail is pretty steep and all, but geesh..




I think this is Imogene Pass, I assume the guy / gal was trying to "flex" on the rocks to the left?


----------



## Supe

And that's why you box your rails, boy's and girls!  That setup is akin to fastening a 2x6 support to a foundation made of 1/8" veneer ply.


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> View attachment 18395
> 
> 
> I think this is Imogene Pass, I assume the guy / gal was trying to "flex" on the rocks to the left?


It's interesting to imagine what wouldn't caused this guy to be facing the opposite direction (I assumed all in the picture we traveling the same direction).


----------



## Orchid PE

@Road Guy When I was in FL there was a "SOS" FB group. The problems we faced were a little different lol... 
















Water and engines don't play well together.


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> View attachment 18392


Am I missing something, or is this guy missing his front drive shaft out on the trail? I'm pretty sure I can see the nut that holds the pinion yoke to the differential.


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> Everything here is a chance for rocks.. but its more so the 1000 ft cliff next to the rock you really have to worry about, I would like to replace them with something that sat a little lower from the body, when I removed them a huge pile of dirt and dust landed on the floor...


When I had my Jeep, I saw some that I liked but never had a chance to install. They bolted flush to the rocker panel and kind of wrapped underneath a little bit and had built in steps/tree guards on them.

These aren't them, but it gives you the idea.


----------



## Road Guy

I never got into the wet wheeling, had a friend in HS with the old bronco. we tried to go through Lake Altoona, didn't make it. had to call in the boys for an all day salvage. (They drain most of the lake in the winter time so many people drive around the edges of the lake bed) but that sort of steered me away from the water stuff..

Just got to work, have a bad feeling the clutch is going out on the jeep, its got that feeling where it only shifts if the pedal is way down on the floor...its been 120K miles so its time, but just bad timing.....


----------



## Supe

Chattaneer PE said:


> Am I missing something, or is this guy missing his front drive shaft out on the trail? I'm pretty sure I can see the nut that holds the pinion yoke to the differential.


They either removed or broke off the u joint straps, probably when the diff shifted hard/fast when the 4 link bracket let go.


----------



## Road Guy

I cant find pics that show what that vehicle was - looks like a truck?


----------



## Road Guy

watching yotube videos on this clutch replacement, it really doesnt look too bad?

It will still go in gear so I am going to bail at lunch and drive home before the PM traffic starts...

I drive around 22K miles a year, i plan to keep this thing a while, clutch replacement would be a handy skill to have, but I just dont really have time this week to F with this!


----------



## Supe

Is it slipping when in gear, or just difficulty getting in/out of gear?  May not be the clutch at all if its the latter.


----------



## Road Guy

It goes in gear but there is almost no pressure on the pedal when you push it in.

Its like there is a very narrow window when the clutch is pushed to the floor for it to go in gear -


----------



## Flyer_PE

^Hydraulic clutch?  Not sure about newer cars but you may be able to adjust it to get a little more life out of it.  I had one behave the exact same way.  I went with a new clutch since the one in the car and over 120k miles on it.


----------



## Road Guy

made it home and then it wouldn't engage any gears, drifted into the cul de sac, AAA'd it to my regular guy, who reminds me (dumbass) that I actually got a new clutch in the great avalanche incident of 2017, on I-70 -40K miles ago and it shouldn't be the clutch..  this year has brainwashed my mind I think becasue I cant believe I didnt recall that.. but yep hydraulics and master cylinder shot.. at least that's fairly cheap...


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> made it home and then it wouldn't engage any gears, drifted into the cul de sac, AAA'd it to my regular guy, who reminds me (dumbass) that I actually got a new clutch in the great avalanche incident of 2017, on I-70 -40K miles ago and it shouldn't be the clutch..  this year has brainwashed my mind I think becasue I cant believe I didnt recall that.. but yep hydraulics and master cylinder shot.. at least that's fairly cheap...


I managed to drive my car across town with a non-functioning clutch.  Mine was working fine until I stepped on the clutch and it just didn't disengage.  Shifting gears sans clutch is pretty easy with a little practice.  Just have to pay attention to ground speed and engine speed and don't force the shift.  One of the skills I learned driving POS farm tucks as a kid.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> made it home and then it wouldn't engage any gears, drifted into the cul de sac, AAA'd it to my regular guy, who reminds me (dumbass) that I actually got a new clutch in the great avalanche incident of 2017, on I-70 -40K miles ago and it shouldn't be the clutch..  this year has brainwashed my mind I think becasue I cant believe I didnt recall that.. but yep hydraulics and master cylinder shot.. at least that's fairly cheap...


Yep, if its not slipping, 9 times out of 10 its the slave cylinder/hydraulic throwout bearing and not the clutch.


----------



## blybrook PE

The last time I lost a clutch, I had to power shift it home and then to the shop the next morning. When they opened the transmission, the wear surface was 3mm above the rivets and the repair guy couldn't believe I was still driving it, let alone pulling a trailer. 

The hydraulics are definitely cheaper than a full clutch.


----------



## Road Guy

I had a ford ranger that the clutch went out and luckily I was on the wave of Atlanta traffic but I made it home in basically 3rd and 5th gear - it was pretty intense if you have ever driven I-285 in Atlanta rush hour!

I guess that’s the one benefit over an automatic - when the tranny goes there is no faking it... you just stuck..,


----------



## P-E

I had the clutch on my mustang replaced last year.  I got around 125k on it.  Not bad.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I had a ford ranger that the clutch went out and luckily I was on the wave of Atlanta traffic but I made it home in basically 3rd and 5th gear - it was pretty intense if you have ever driven I-285 in Atlanta rush hour!
> 
> I guess that’s the one benefit over an automatic - when the tranny goes there is no faking it... you just stuck..,


Scariest thing I ever did was drive my old Saturn home in rush hour traffic in Charlotte.  The ECU was defective (thought it was the drive by wire pedal at the time), so it randomly would go into limp mode.  This meant that the gas pedal would only register any throttle application at all when it was depressed about 50%.  However, if it decided that the voltage reading looked OK, it would pull itself out of limp mode _while you were driving_ without having to cycle the ignition or anything.  So imagine trying to crawl along in traffic while you slip the clutch/tip in the throttle, only for the car to basically go wide open throttle on you at random times.  It was HORRIFYING.  I actually registered an NHTSA complaint for that one, but they sold so few cars nothing ever happened with it.


----------



## Road Guy

In 10 years (whatever Gen comes after Z) will be like, what is a clutch?

Wife got her new truck the other day, have to say I am a little jealous.. Its nice!  

We actually got it Monday and then took it back to carmax we found this weird hose coming out of the bottom.

(It was actually in the online pic from carmax website you can see below) just behind front right tire - I didnt notice this in the pic




Here is what it looks like underneath:




So basically the dealer before added this drain line from the AC condensation line? We were able to look it up on the Toyota service page under the VIN. said it was requested prior to the original sale? Anyone ever seen anything like this?  They said we could take it off or leave it and it wouldnt make any difference, it defin drains when AC is running?

It was originally in Austin, where I suppose you run the AC 10 months a year so maybe they didnt want it leaking over their garage or something and put a bucket underneath?

Seems strange to me?

I didnt get a pic of it in the sunshine, but I admit its pretty nice.. We are telling people she bought it with the Front Line Nurse Corona Virus Bonus Money the Government Gave her..


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> In 10 years (whatever Gen comes after Z) will be like, what is a clutch?


----------



## jeb6294

A few years ago when I still had my motorcycle, some millennial jackass started joking about stealing it. When I asked him “can you work a manual transmission”? He started mumbling something about figuring it out so I added “with your feet”? That shut him up.


----------



## Orchid PE

Definitely gonna be after millennials. It's those gen z'ers that don't know how to drive a standard.

Also, looks like the trust fund kids tried to go off-roading lol

View attachment 18458


----------



## Dothracki PE

I used to know how to drive manual when I was a valet in high school/college. Now I am out of practice.

Also got myself a new hybrid car this weekend. Doesn't quite fit in the trend of this thread but I have seen some videos of people taking the Rav4 Hybrid off-roading.


----------



## Road Guy

if its like the 4WD on my sons Rav 4 (2009) it will only go in 4WD up to around 15 -18 mph?

But he drove it home last thanksgiving through a straight up blizzard From South Dakota - Wyoming - Colorado and it did really well just in the FWD mostly -


----------



## Road Guy

This is sort of automotive, redneck engineering here...but last year went camping, backed my trusted hitch hauler into a tree:

  - I bought this in 2002- first family trip to the beach when my oldest was 3, middle was a little over 1, youngest wasnt born yet, since then its been on every road trip we have ever made as a family, from Key Largo to Yellowstone.. Its also rated to hold 2000 lbs and not like the ones you buy at the wal mart - 




Tried to find a welder locally, most still wanted more money than I wanted to spend, so I got out the old sawzall..

and then flattened the piece out:




Then a few drill bits later..







Probably not rated at a ton anymore but I got in the back and jumped up and down and it still held   - Im going to add some reinformcement for where the steel mesh was bent, but I mainly use it for camping and winter trips when the ski's take up all the space in the thule..

Yeah I know it looks a litte  ghetto fabulous, gonna rattle can that


----------



## Orchid PE

Dothracki said:


> I used to know how to drive manual when I was a valet in high school/college. Now I am out of practice.
> 
> Also got myself a new hybrid car this weekend. Doesn't quite fit in the trend of this thread but I have seen some videos of people taking the Rav4 Hybrid off-roading.


Hey, as long as it has an engine it's fair game.

I've been considering a Tesla. Yeah, super expensive, but I'm only going to live once! If anything, I'd get that cybertruck and put it through the paces out on a trail. I'd want the tri motor model. The only thing I'm concerned about is that it's marketed as AWD and not 4WD. That could be a deal-breaker for me if I can't lock in into 4WD.


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> Its also rated to hold 2000 lbs and not like the ones you buy at the wal mart


lol What's the tongue capacity of your Jeep?


----------



## Road Guy

porbably not that!

I did use it when I had my old TJ to haul half a pallett of sod to the house from the sod farm ( full pallet in two trips)

I was worried it was going to fall off the frame - mainly becasue that jeep had been in Pennsyvalnia and had its share of rust

If I decide to stay in my house and make the commute I have been thinking about getting the cheaper tesla - the self driving part would be pretty sweet for me - I dont know about the truck though..


----------



## Dothracki PE

Chattaneer PE said:


> Hey, as long as it has an engine it's fair game.
> 
> I've been considering a Tesla. Yeah, super expensive, but I'm only going to live once! If anything, I'd get that cybertruck and put it through the paces out on a trail. I'd want the tri motor model. The only thing I'm concerned about is that it's marketed as AWD and not 4WD. That could be a deal-breaker for me if I can't lock in into 4WD.


I think they have been coming down in price lately. The model 3 is relatively affordable although not much of an offroad vehicle. Plus the amount of features they pack into the car makes it worth the pricetag.


----------



## Supe

Does anyone have a hitch mount cargo carrier they really like?  Our options are either trade in for a larger SUV (not in the cards), or find a hitch mount weatherproof carrier we can use that will fit at least two medium sized suitcases plus some miscellaneous crap in it.  Looks like these stupid things are around $800 a pop?


----------



## Road Guy

See my post above 

But what we normally do is I have a large black toolbox thing (you could put a smallperson in there) for clothes / suitcases - and then there is room for a large cooler - that is our normal winter time setup just to keep the snow out of it.

But the really good ones are in that price range - I found some aluminum ones online but I havent seen 

Mine above was $250 in 2001 dollars - I got it at one of those places that sells truck camper tops and they had a bunch of these out for sale -I used to loan it to a friend in Atlanta and he would carry his dirt bike on it

Do you have a roof rack? You can fit a lot in those large Thule Roof Racks ( for us we put 5 peoples ski gear in there with room) you coudl probably get at least one large suitcase in it + a medium size one?


----------



## Supe

No roof rack.  Any idea what cu/ft your box is?  I guess the perk of the pricier ones is that they either slide out or swing away from the back for hatch access.  We would want one that swings out if possible since we'd be using it with dogs that need to hop in and out.


----------



## Road Guy

ill measure it when I get home,


----------



## bwin12

Supe said:


> Does anyone have a hitch mount cargo carrier they really like?  Our options are either trade in for a larger SUV (not in the cards), or find a hitch mount weatherproof carrier we can use that will fit at least two medium sized suitcases plus some miscellaneous crap in it.  Looks like these stupid things are around $800 a pop?


Do  you have the ability to make your own? Or have a fab shop do it? Just go with the heaviest steel available, well for the hitch/tongue at least. 

The carrier worked fine. I saw it laying next to my dads scrap pile when I visited my parents this summer.

The XJ was not a fan.


----------



## envirotex

Supe said:


> Does anyone have a hitch mount cargo carrier they really like?  Our options are either trade in for a larger SUV (not in the cards), or find a hitch mount weatherproof carrier we can use that will fit at least two medium sized suitcases plus some miscellaneous crap in it.  Looks like these stupid things are around $800 a pop?


We got one for free from someone who never used theirs...check FB marketplace....


----------



## Supe

bwin12 said:


> Do  you have the ability to make your own


Yes, but I wouldn't be able to make one that's waterproof, which is why I'd prefer to not just use the tray style.  Honestly, the tray style are so cheap it's nearly break-even vs. my costs to build anyways.


----------



## Road Guy

Supe not sure what type of vehcile you have but you can add a roof rack to just about any car (Thule does have that shit figured out)

Expecially if you want waterproof I have seen some enclosed hitch haulers on the road but they look pricey

This is our set up for water / snow proofing - The box is way up on a shelf so I didnt measure it but the hauler is 5FT X 2 FT - Depth is 6 IN

This was the onlly pic I could find of it loaded with our "box" - but I would use this for our road trips from Atlanta to the Keys (it would usually rain a ton) and this would stay dry -

This pic is pre lift but I had to add an extender to the jeep becasue the new spare tire was too big for the hitxh hauler to fit the hitch -


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; yes thats the OG engineerboards.com decal on the side there


----------



## Road Guy

bwin12 said:


> Do  you have the ability to make your own? Or have a fab shop do it? Just go with the heaviest steel available, well for the hitch/tongue at least.
> 
> The carrier worked fine. I saw it laying next to my dads scrap pile when I visited my parents this summer.
> 
> The XJ was not a fan.
> 
> View attachment 18589


the XJ just needs a suspension upgrade for the weight!

Do they still have the XJ?


----------



## bwin12

Or balance... I remember I felt like I could pop a wheelie in that setup easier than the R6...

I think the last year they made them was 2001. That one was a 99. My dad bought 3 black 1999's that had been in accidents in 2005. I picked the Classic, very easy to work on. My brother and I each robbed parts off the 3rd. It was an awesome vehicle to have in college. I am 100% certain the airbag would not have gone off if I had been in an accident after my replacement. Very good regarding sport and even better utility. But it got like 11 mpg in the city and when I got my first real job I traded it in for a Saab.


----------



## Road Guy

Did some wheeling with the daughter and some of her friends today- man I forgot how much better the 2 DR jeeps are compared to the 4 doors (and probably anything else) - hers is basically stock 33’s- no lift - but that thing made some climbs that mine was struggling with- and made it look easy. Just like watching a billy goat walk on a steep slope with ease..

gotta ditch this 4 door!


----------



## Road Guy

*cant remember if it was @Supe or @blybrook PEwho gave me the idea to use the Torx to get the stripped bolt out but it worked like a champ!*

*bummer the video isnt embedded but I promise its safe.*

View attachment IMG_3092.MOV


----------



## Supe

J/K, glad it worked out.  I use that one quite a bit, especially on stainless button and socket head screws, as 99% of them are super soft shit steel.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah cant believe I never thought of that before.

Now I got her doors off and its snowing   - tyring to get them repainted one got dinged up last summer so was trying to get it to the shop.. 

hope she doesnt have to drive to much this week


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> Did some wheeling with the daughter and some of her friends today- man I forgot how much better the 2 DR jeeps are compared to the 4 doors (and probably anything else) - hers is basically stock 33’s- no lift - but that thing made some climbs that mine was struggling with- and made it look easy. Just like watching a billy goat walk on a steep slope with ease..


It's the wheel base. The shorter the wheel base, the better off you are for wheeling (most of the time)...


----------



## Road Guy

I havent driven one in so long I just forget how nimble those things are, We did some failry steep climbs and I felt like I needed lockers and the 2dr (OG Jeep) just went on up...

They say most times you will lose traction before you flip over backwards but there were defina couple of oh shit moments..


----------



## Road Guy

So this early snow has brought up something I hadnt thought about with the wifes new truck - its got an Are Cab on the back, and it has power / lights - but when it snows or is cold, I guess you are just SOL in terms of using your rear view mirror?  - I was going to check out some tacoma forums but didnt know if anyone here had a similar issue - theres got to be a way to add some type of defroster to it? these tops are "fancy"


----------



## Orchid PE

/s


----------



## Road Guy

lol - I will send that option to the wife!

I did find this - https://frostfighter.com/pickup-truck-rear-cap-topper-window-defrosters.htm  I see a saturday being wasted in my future..

I really wish we had a window at the front of the camper top, so you could maybe send some heat back that way - I had a ford ranger in college with a cheap camper top but you could almost climb through from the bed to the truck - was a great place to keep beers cold in the Cooler


----------



## Orchid PE

I have an ARE shell, but mine doesn't have a front window. It's completely open and has a rubber boot that seals up against the cab of the truck. Works well keeping the water out. The window in the cab is sliding, so I have access.


----------



## Road Guy

did it come that way or did you have someone do that? I may look and see if we could have that changed cause that would be really excellent ( especially for our mini camper plans, if there is a ski season this year)


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> did it come that way or did you have someone do that? I may look and see if we could have that changed cause that would be really excellent ( especially for our mini camper plans, if there is a ski season this year)


It came that way.


----------



## Orchid PE

You could probably do it yourself. It's something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Breezer-Compression-Weather-Connection-Optional/dp/B07SJN1KQL

https://www.custompickup.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&amp;c=18


----------



## Road Guy

okay cool thanks -  I may look around and see if I can find a place to take the window off and put this on, wife freaks out when I do things like take the sawzall out and trim my rock sliders on my jeep and put them back on - but this boot would be well worth it.

(Unless of course I do this one weekend she has to work)  :holyness:  always easier to get forgivness than permission!


----------



## Orchid PE

Does the window of your shell line up with the window of the cab? Mine does, which is good. Some shells have openings that are larger than the window, and if a boot is installed it will rub paint off the cab. My boot presses up against the window exactly, so it doesn't rub paint.


----------



## Road Guy

I will check - glad to know this though cause It was defin the one thing I didnt care for about the set up.


----------



## mudpuppy

@Road Guy I'm not sure if a rear defroster will help a lot without a wiper back there?  The rear wiper on my XJ stopped working a long time ago, and even with the rear defroster I usually can't see out the back in the winter because the window gets covered in salt residue within 5 seconds of driving.  But maybe they don't use as much salt over there as they do here.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah thats a good point. The pitch on this is a little steeper than an XJ - I wil have to ask around as this setup is everywhere.

CDOT puts out a de icer that gets pretty filthy

Ever since I added a 35 IN spare tire I cant see shit anyways to be honest - but at least I can see out the side, I drove the Tacoma this morning and it just feels (to me) like it has a lot of blind spots, made worse with iced up windows - but Its also only the 3rd time Ive driven it


----------



## Supe

Any Hyundai Palisade, Honda Pilot, or Mazda CX 9 owners here?

Now that we have three dogs, and two of them BIG boys, we're strongly thinking about upsizing from our CRV to something bigger.  Looking at a three row crossover to give us the most cargo capacity with 1 1/2 rows folded down. 

The CX 9 is supposed to be very underrated and gives you a ton of bang for your buck, but runs considerably smaller than some of the others.  The Palisade and Pilot seem to be very similarly priced, with the Hyundai appearing to give you a little more bang for the buck, with both hosing you if you want leather (which we'd like for the sake of ease of cleaning, but isn't mandatory).


----------



## Road Guy

Never owned one but the Pilot cargo area and 3rd row seat was pretty small when we went and looked at them a few years ago.

Did you look at the Highlander?  Weve been pretty happy with ours (before we gave it to our kid) but its got a really roomy middle row (with seats that slide) and cargo area.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Never owned one but the Pilot cargo area and 3rd row seat was pretty small when we went and looked at them a few years ago.
> 
> Did you look at the Highlander?  Weve been pretty happy with ours (before we gave it to our kid) but its got a really roomy middle row (with seats that slide) and cargo area.


I did.  It actually gets really low scores based on bang for the buck, and their 4 cylinder option is absurdly anemic.


----------



## Road Guy

4 Cylinder?  -I thought you were a car guy?

We dont look at anything less than a V6 here due to the mountain roads- they are not very forgiving on the 4 bangers!


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> 4 Cylinder?  -I thought you were a car guy?
> 
> We dont look at anything less than a V6 here due to the mountain roads- they are not very forgiving on the 4 bangers!


Mrs. Supe wants good mileage.  But the others just have more bang for the buck in general and much nicer interior trims.  Heck, the Durango was rated higher than the Toyota!  I really want the Telluride EX, but if you can find one, dealers are marking them up several thousand dollars, which is absurd.  The Palisade is a little bit nicer, but you're paying a few thousand to make it match some of the stuff that comes on the Telluride at $38k.  Going to see if my father can find any better deals up in CT, though all of those seem to be AWD when we could make due with FWD.


----------



## Road Guy

Yeah Toyotas in general are pretty shitty in terms of the interior - even the wifes newish Tacoma doesnt have heated / leather seats and some other stuff that I would consider fairly standard (in 2019)


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Yeah Toyotas in general are pretty shitty in terms of the interior - even the wifes newish Tacoma doesnt have heated / leather seats and some other stuff that I would consider fairly standard (in 2019)


Sounds like the new Exploder.  Reviews said that the 2021 Ford wasn't even on par with the Pilot's interior... from 2015.


----------



## Road Guy

Ive never owned a Honda, but we test drove the pilot with full intentions of buying one a few years ago, but just didnt really like it after we drove them -it did have lots of gadgets but I thought it drove very boxy, almost like my Jeep.

But eventually those gadgets all end up breaking down the road and can be a PIA to replace.


----------



## snickerd3

I've had two pilots ('12 and '19) and a crv.  4wheel drive for all. Put over 170K miles on everyone of them.  I love my pilot.  I had to get used to all the new technology with the '19, but it isn't horrible.  I've never had any issues with the gadgets.  The third row is definitely tight for grownups, but my son loves sitting back there when we need to put the seats up.  If the third row is down, the back isn't that small. however if you need the third row there is NO space in the trunk.  My only complaint is the factory tires.  They are really soft, I've had nails in the sidewall 3 times.  Ended up replacing all 4 at 43K miles.   

working fromhome I am only getting about 20 mpg, but when commuting, the highway/minor in town driving was getting 23-24mpg.  strictly highway driving I can get that 27 mpg.


----------



## Flyer_PE

We have a 2015 Pilot that we bought used at the end of 2016.  It's basically a boring and bullet proof Honda.  It's coming up on 100k miles and so far I've replaced brake rotors and pads, rear shocks (one was leaking oil), and spark plugs.  The only one that caused me to swear was the one spark plug with the coolant line running directly above the coil pack.

I was a little annoyed at that the phone interface in the 2015 Honda was far more clunky than the on in my 2013 Ford truck.  As far as driving it, it's a shoe box on wheels and handles like a bull elephant but that's comes with the design.


----------



## Road Guy

^- I think thats what made the wife not like it when she drove it, she said it just didnt feel very smooth and said she thought she was driving a slightly nicer version of my jeep (which is defin a square box)

&amp; when we saw the 3rd row seat with our age kids at the time it was defin a no go  but if you dont need to use it its probably not an issue, but even the middle seat was pretty small.


----------



## Supe

I think the driving on the new Pilots are a little nicer, since it's now built off the updated Odyssey minivan platform.  Unfortunately, it also makes it look like, well, a minivan.  It's basically the minivan with slightly more rake to the A pillar and no sliding doors.

We have no need at all for the third row, only the space that it occupies for the dogs and travel stuff.  While we like the Hondas, I'm just not sure that the Pilot stacks up option wise against some of its competitors until you get into the much higher trim levels.


----------



## snickerd3

I've always driven boxes or large vehicles, learned to drive in an Astro van.  I HATE driving sedans and minivans.  The 19 definitely is a smoother ride than the 12, so it really is more of what you are used to driving.


----------



## Road Guy

The Bronco is the only "SUV" being made today that doesnt look and drive like a mini van to be honest..


----------



## Orchid PE




----------



## Supe

I love how the Blazer gets completely outclassed by every other comparable vehicle in terms of space, seating, towing capacity, etc.  I think C&amp;D ranked it something like 17th in the midsize SUV category.


----------



## Road Guy

I just scrolled through that C&amp;D report and I  had to stop taking it seriolsy when they have KIA's and Volkswagens ahead of the 4 Runner - I mean I have at least seen  4 runners off the pavement.. all those listed except the Wrangler and the 4 Runner should be classified as Mini vans or "goofy sedans"

Also the Nissan Armada the best full size SUV?


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> I just scrolled through that C&amp;D report and I  had to stop taking it seriolsy when they have KIA's and Volkswagens ahead of the 4 Runner - I mean I have at least seen  4 runners off the pavement.. all those listed except the Wrangler and the 4 Runner should be classified as Mini vans or "goofy sedans"
> 
> Also the Nissan Armada the best full size SUV?


Because they're not ranking on off road performance.  It's pretty bad if the VW is ahead of the 4 runner though, as the VW Atlas is a shit car.  Poor interior quality and notably bad ride/handling.


----------



## Orchid PE

Maybe Lori Loughlin and Felicity Huffman had something to do with the Kias and VWs being ranked higher than they should be


----------



## Road Guy

How much do you think I have to spend to get my rig to do this?


----------



## bwin12

I would focus my attention on the seatbelts and rollcage... 

I like how its got a rooftop tent just to make it that much more of a rollover risk.


----------



## Dleg

Not super exciting, but I picked up a 2020 Mazda 6 this week, 2nd model from top (Grand Touring Reserve). The dealer here has been trying to dump all the 2020s and had the prices pretty low, so I went in with the intention of potentially getting a Miata RF (retractable hard top), but when I got there the prices had dropped even more, and practicality got the best of me and I tried out the 6.  The Miata was a super fun test drive, but even though my wife had pre-approved, I knew I would never actually get to drive it because I always seem to have at least 2 tag-alongs. The 6 is pretty fun to drive and a lot more comfortable, and in reality I probably spend 95% of my road time sitting in traffic so I guess I'd rather be comfortable than sitting in a little sportster, frustrated that I can't move. 

I had looked at getting a Tacoma first, and still would like one, but JFC they're more than twice what I spent on the Mazda 6....


----------



## Road Guy

do you stil have the 4 Runner?


----------



## Dleg

Yes, it's still in great shape and I enjoy driving it, too.

The dilemma becomes which one do I let my daughter use. This purchase started with me looking for a used Corolla for her (bleh) so she could start working and hopefully move out on her own. I had some cash that we got when we sold her car in Alaska a couple months ago. But then I saw the new Mazda 3s on sale for less than the used 2018 Corollas, and the 6 on sale for the same price as a new Corolla, and went for it. I'll probably switch it up between the two until she moves out, and decide then. Maybe give her the 4-Runner since it is older, and it would give me an excuse to get a Tacoma (or some other 4x4).


----------



## Road Guy

The 4Runner still pretty new though isn’t it?  
 

we feel without having to drag the whole family around the Tacoma was a good choice - actually I drove it today and it’s 10X more comfortable than my JKU.

my daughter saved up 7k (selling the lords waffle fries) and bought her own car and I just had to co-sign for it.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Dleg said:


> Not super exciting, but I picked up a 2020 Mazda 6 this week,


I had a 2004 Mazda 6.  Loved that car.  Some idiot t-boned me and totaled it about 3 months before I had it paid off.  Never realized how much I missed that hatchback until I got rid of my Altima for the Tesla.


----------



## Dleg

I just did a quick little run to McDonald's with my son and flipped the "sport" switch. Pretty damn fun! My son's kind of mad at me now, though. 

Yeah @Road Guy the 4Runner is 4 years old now, still nice. The 6 is growing on me fast, though. Not sure how it would fare in a place that experiences winter.


----------



## Road Guy

one day Ive got to get my tools organized better - I spent a good part of the day wrestling with some old rusty shocks that the bolts didnt want to break loose on - even with an imact gun - but I dont know how many times I look for some socket, end up going to buy it and then find the one I thought I had later in the day.. tis sso f'n annoying..

Had to take the brake assembly off to be able to get some elbow grease on the bolt head, but damn a 1/2 socket set was able to get a bolt loose that my impact gun couldnt get to move..

And after all this did I organize the socket drawer in the tool box.. nope... maybe next time..


----------



## Supe

About once I year I go into Fallujah aka my garage, take every random tool/socket/bit I find laying around, and spread it out on a blanket in the driveway.  I have junior match everything up.  I usually end up putting away full sets of tools I didn't even remember that I had.


----------



## Road Guy

thats what I need to do. I am at the point where the "project" takes 2X as long as it should due to my own organizational failure.


----------



## Flyer_PE

I'm at the point where no amount of organizing is going to get my 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag.

I'm considering a trip to Harbor Freight and increasing my storage capacity.  I'm not a huge fan of their tools for long-term use but the U.S. General tool boxes they have are pretty nice for the money.


----------



## Road Guy

The sad thing is I have a decent tool box set up like that - what started out as an organized drawer based on US / Metric / 3/8 &amp; 1/2's is now  just "the socket drawer" lol 

&amp; my older Jeeps, (TJ, YJ) they were nice and had a hole in the engine compartment where  you could access the top of the front shock with a socket wrench to remove/replace the shocks, I guess that made too much sense for Chrysler since they did away with that and make you remove it the hard way...


----------



## Supe

The US General boxes are very nice.  If you want to save a couple bucks, take a look at the Husky boxes sold by HD.


----------



## bwin12

Supe said:


> I have junior match everything up.


The problem I have is my 3.5 year old son comes out in the garage to help, takes the tools I am working with and hides them. Then he tries to make up for taking my wrench by handing me his plastic 3/4 box end which has never been useful. 

Every time he does it I text a picture to my dad and say I am sorry I did this to you.


----------



## Road Guy

Anyone ever break check a tesla?

I thought they had a system that didnt allow it, but comgin back to the office I am crusing down the interstate, I can see the guy behind me right on my ass and eating something, so I give it the old break check, holy shit I guess the auto breaking went into full effect, and well I sure hope he didnt spill his lunch all over   

But if you so close that the spare tire on my jeep is almost hiding your car in my rear view mirror you need to back the F up!


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Road Guy said:


> Anyone ever break check a tesla?
> 
> I thought they had a system that didnt allow it, but comgin back to the office I am crusing down the interstate, I can see the guy behind me right on my ass and eating something, so I give it the old break check, holy shit I guess the auto breaking went into full effect, and well I sure hope he didnt spill his lunch all over
> 
> But if you so close that the spare tire on my jeep is almost hiding your car in my rear view mirror you need to back the F up!


I can guarantee he wasn't using Autopilot at the time.  I have my autopilot follow distance set to the absolute minimum, and it's a solid 3 car lengths at interstate speeds.  You can't tailgate or make tight lane changes while on Autopilot.


----------



## Road Guy

We have a lot of teslas in this areas and they are getting the BMW a_sshole_ Factor here 

But if I keep this commute and this job one will totally be in my future in


----------



## Flyer_PE

Just picked up the car from the engine shop.  Getting an alignment done before I load it up and haul it home.

I forgot just how much fun this thing is.


----------



## Supe

Man, that sucker is CLEAN.


----------



## Road Guy

That looks very nice!

Didnt you recently rebuild a tractor too?

I must be doing somehting wrong, I aint got time for shit!


----------



## Flyer_PE

Road Guy said:


> That looks very nice!
> 
> Didnt you recently rebuild a tractor too?
> 
> I must be doing somehting wrong, I aint got time for shit!


It’s not a coincidence that I have almost no clue what any of you guys are talking about when the subject is sports or just about any popular TV show.


----------



## envirotex

Flyer_PE said:


> I'm at the point where no amount of organizing is going to get my 10lbs of crap in a 5lb bag.
> 
> I'm considering a trip to Harbor Freight and increasing my storage capacity.  I'm not a huge fan of their tools for long-term use but the U.S. General tool boxes they have are pretty nice for the money.


Check the pawn shops and Facebook marketplace first...You can find awesome barely used boxes there, and usually they're full of tools.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> We have a lot of teslas in this areas and they are getting the BMW a_sshole_ Factor here
> 
> But if I keep this commute and this job one will totally be in my future in


Been looking at the Mustang SUV, myself...Not sure I want to give up the Benz, though, so I'm waiting until it actually comes out.


----------



## Flyer_PE

So I was pretty impressed with the power increase in the car for the few miles I put on it before loading it on the trailer and bringing it home.  The boost controller has two programed set points (hi and lo).  I misread the book and thought I was ripping around on the "hi" setting.  I was not.  After unloading the car today, I took it for a spin on the "hi" setting.

All I can say is 15 psi of positive manifold pressure gives that little car a serious kick in the a$$.  I'm still giggling like a little kid.


----------



## Orchid PE

Just brought this girl home today. '87.


----------



## Road Guy

nice!

Inline 6?

I had a 94 YJ, really it was my favorite Jeep so far (even my short lived CJ) - Ill see if I can find a pic..  I used to put my kids car seats in the back..


----------



## Orchid PE

It's the 4cyl. I don't think I can afford a 6cyl down here. People want crazy money for them.

I had a tj with the 6, and a tj with the 4, and yeah it's got more hp, but it's just for cruising around town since there isn't really anything else to do down here.


----------



## Road Guy

A 4 banger should be fine down in flat lander land

They are crazy what they sell for - I am sure someone else is already doing it, but Id like to go through the West  ala American Pickers and buy old jeeps sitting in peoples barns (I see a lot of them when I make trips to South Dakota and back)


----------



## envirotex

New shop truck...Probably keeping the patina for a while.


----------



## jeb6294

envirotex said:


> New shop truck...Probably keeping the patina for a while.
> 
> View attachment 18969


Clear coat that shit


----------



## MA_PE

I believe they call that a “rat rod”


----------



## Orchid PE

Anyone have any luck with bolt extractors? An exhaust manifold stud is broken off in the Jeep's head. Since the manifold isn't secured in that spot, there is a small leak. I plan on replacing the entire exhaust soon but I'd like to get the stud out to put in a new stud. Any suggested kits that work well?


----------



## Road Guy

That’s not a skill I’ve had a lot of Practice with.

 Supe or Bly probably have though?


----------



## Supe

Chattaneer PE said:


> Anyone have any luck with bolt extractors? An exhaust manifold stud is broken off in the Jeep's head. Since the manifold isn't secured in that spot, there is a small leak. I plan on replacing the entire exhaust soon but I'd like to get the stud out to put in a new stud. Any suggested kits that work well?


I find the square flute ones break less.  Welding a nut on is the best approach if its an option, though.  Otherwise, use a ton of penetrating lube in advance and use heat.


----------



## blybrook PE

Even with welding a nut on the stud and extracting that way (provided it isn't broken off within the head), let it soak with a good penetrating oil for a day or two, then weld and pull.

I've used several bolt extractors, still have yet to find one that is my "go-to". Last bolt that broke off within a casting was carefully drilled out to just shy of the required size tap drill and then re-tapped. Before that, I melted the sucker out with the oxy-acetylene torch.

EDIT - Thinking about the last time with the bolt extractors, use the largest size that'll fit safely. If you bust it, it's not going to be easy to get it out. Preparation of the bolt within the head will be key to getting everything out properly. Take your time with it.


----------



## bwin12

Well, I've seen it all now,


----------



## Orchid PE

Alright so now I'm at the decision point. I have the intake and exhaust manifolds completely removed and can see better. The stud is broken off just below the surface of the head. And it looks like it rusted in place like 20 years ago. A brand new head, free shipping, is $259.99.

My options:

1) Weld nut and try to remove stud

2) Try to use bolt extractors on stud

3) Pull the head and take it to a machine shop to rebuild and drill out stud

4) Buy new head and valves


----------



## blybrook PE

If the head needs to be pulled and rebuilt and ground anyway, let the shop do it. 

If not, start with the first option and work your way down, skipping number 3. If you bust the extractor in there, the shop cost may exceed the new head price.


----------



## Road Guy

Im more of a parts changer mechanic so if I could get a new head and that solved my bolt problem (keeps me from running to the shop, etc) then I would probably go that route


----------



## Road Guy




----------



## Orchid PE

Without the boring details, the method that ended up working for me was pulling the head, drilling the stud out, and running a tap back through.

I'll clean the head up before putting it back in. Definitely worth it to replace the head gasket. It wasn't in bad shape, but was old. Taking off the thermostat housing revealed the lack of a thermostat (explains why the engine showed running cool. I thought maybe the gauge wasn't working), plus a bad liquid gasket job. I'll be going back with the suggested felt gasket because I've had good success with those. Throttle body to intake manifold gasket was almost gone. Surprisingly the valve cover gasket was good, but it was felt and I'll be going back with a reusable molded gasket. Valves all seem to be good. Some small carbon build up on pistons 1 and 4, but that's no surprise since the exhaust manifold was missing bolts at those ports. Not enough imo to justify taking the pistons out.

I'll be going back with a new exhaust manifold since it was rusted to the down pipe because they didn't use the graphite gasket between the two. I ended up cutting the down pipe, but I planned on replacing the entire exhaust system because the muffler isn't even connected to the cat anymore.

Luckily Jeep parts are cheap.


----------



## Road Guy

glad you got it out or have a plan- 

can you still find parts for the YJ’s these days?  I’ve actually had issues getting parts for my JKu- has to wait on a wiring harness (to the starter) that something chewed through for 4 months - 

I’ve got change out the thermostat on my todo list this weekend as well-  $25 part that will probably involve 2-3 hours just to get all the crap out of the way to get to it


----------



## Orchid PE

Yeah the amc 2.5 is pretty easy to get parts for. Just ordered the thermostat off Rock Auto for $0.92 

That's one thing I like about older stuff, it's so much easier to work on. Even the 2.4 that jeep switched too was a little painful to deal with.


----------



## Orchid PE

Nice. You ever wish you had just kept it?

When my wife and I got married she had a 2006 Unlimited TJ (LJ). She was the only owner. When we traded it in in 2016 for a 4-door suv, it only had 80,000 miles. Had the straight 6. I wish we had kept it, but at the time we were planning on having kids and wanted to get an suv and have it paid off before having kids.


----------



## Road Guy

I would have liked to have kept her but it wasn’t practical - up until my kids started leaving for college there was never a lot of room for an extra car- but now

those LJ’s will have people fighting over them at around $15k out here - crazy....

got the thermostat done - about an hour - not bad... here’s to hoping that annoying bird drinks some of the fluid that ran down the driveway....


----------



## jeb6294

Chattaneer PE said:


> Without the boring details, the method that ended up working for me was pulling the head, drilling the stud out, and running a tap back through.


One of the favorite mods on diesels is losing all the emissions crap...or at least that’s what I’ve heard.  It’s mostly just a “feel good” thing to make people think the EPA is actually worth a crap. In reality it doesn’t really do anything because what ever it might save at the exhaust pipe it more than makes up for in other places.

Anyway, removing the EGR is notoriously bad...a lot of broken bolts. Guys will try soaking the bolts in penetrating oil for a week before doing the work and even that doesn’t always work. The method you mentioned is how it usually goes.


----------



## jeb6294

I miss my TJ. It had a 4.5” lift and 35’s. Kind of the same...it was tons of fun, but not always the most practical. One of the new 4-doors would nice, but they need to bring the straight 6 back.


----------



## Orchid PE

Looks like a previous owner did an egr system delete. Absolutely nothing is connected to the egr canister, solenoid, or valve. Vacuum tubes are bypassed on the intake.

I'm thinking about putting it all back. It would probably help make the engine run cooler. Maybe that's why there wasn't a thermostat in the housing? Needed all the cooling they could get! Lol


----------



## Road Guy

wonder what was the benefit of them doing all that? trying to get a little more power out of the 4 banger?

I drove the daughters jeep today to see how it rides after putting all the new (ish) shocks on it - i bought a used Rubicon suspension and have been slowley putting it on ( the bolts on her jeep (08) do not like to come off - but noticed that the heat runs while the jeep is moving but at an idle it blows cold air? Going to do so internet searching but  I wonder if she also needs a new thermostat also?  If it was the heater core you would think it would never blow hot?

Also I need to bite the bullet and get a full kit of 1/2 in sockets - Ive got a few pieces here and there but they make such a huge difference when dealing with stubborn bolts!


----------



## Road Guy

So the internet’s told me that it might be low on radiator coolant and yep- took over a gallon to top it off.. weird it never ran hot (or so the daughter said) 

geesh I feel like I need to drive every vehicle in my families fleet once a week to make sure there aren’t any little lights on..


----------



## Dleg




----------



## Orchid PE

Can't believe I've only put like 3k miles on my truck this year. Most years I'm hitting at least 10k. Thanks covid! And now that I have a work truck, I will continue not having many miles. 

This toyota is gonna last me a while.


----------



## jeb6294

Chattaneer PE said:


> Can't believe I've only put like 3k miles on my truck this year. Most years I'm hitting at least 10k. Thanks covid! And now that I have a work truck, I will continue not having many miles.
> 
> This toyota is gonna last me a while.


Between my work commute going to 3 miles to the park-and-ride, teleworking since mid-March, and driving the minivan more when the wife is travelling for work, my truck will be lucky to see mileage in the 4 digits this year.


----------



## Road Guy

I talked to the insurance folks and they are gonna check but they cant seem to way to find a way to not cover the whole family on any car I have, which makes all my car insurances higher since I have a 21, 19, 17 year olds on the policy - It seems dumb and maybe I finally need to call USAA, but they will offer me a reduced rate if I have a "weekend car" but they say they cant only limit that driver to me? (State Farm)  since the Jeep is paid for and has the mods I want Id like to park it  M-F, and find a commuter vehicle or something -  they do give me a break on the kid up at college but not much-

If I didnt have 3 "high risk" people on the policy it would be next to nothing probably for just the wife and I


----------



## Supe

Are dealerships on crack right now?  They are seriously asking like $5K over MSRP on Kias and Hyundais.  I'm about to give up and just go get a damned Pilot even though I'd prefer the Telluride/Palisade.


----------



## snickerd3

Chattaneer PE said:


> Can't believe I've only put like 3k miles on my truck this year. Most years I'm hitting at least 10k. Thanks covid! And now that I have a work truck, I will continue not having many miles.
> 
> This toyota is gonna last me a while.


I Know!!!  I went from ~110 miles a day to about 20 miles a week!  I usually need an oil change every 4 months.  I have an appt Saturday for oil change and recall repair.  It's been since then end of January since my last trip in for an oil change. 



Supe said:


> Are dealerships on crack right now?  They are seriously asking like $5K over MSRP on Kias and Hyundais.  I'm about to give up and just go get a damned Pilot even though I'd prefer the Telluride/Palisade.


lack of supply therefore people pay premiums?


----------



## Road Guy

have you checked inventory in other states?


----------



## Supe

Yes.  Equally as bad/dumb pricing.


----------



## blybrook PE

I found that my drive from AK to CO has caused an O-ring in the coolant system to crack and have an intermittent leak. It's on top of the motor, so I'll get it replaced before driving home. Probably do it the same day I change the oil to winter weight, swap the fuel filter out and get the winter tires installed (I brought everything needed but the damn o-ring, but I'm sure I can find one locally). 

Starting to wonder if the BIL's HOA has some rule against wrenching in the driveway or not. If so, I'll have to drive into the back pasture and hide it behind my camper to get the work done. At least his older kids will be able to help out and start to learn some shade tree mechanic tricks.


----------



## bwin12

Supe said:


> Are dealerships on crack right now?  They are seriously asking like $5K over MSRP on Kias and Hyundais.  I'm about to give up and just go get a damned Pilot even though I'd prefer the Telluride/Palisade.


They haven't been out that long, and yet I seem to see them everywhere. Supply &lt; Demand, as has been pointed out. I only notice them because I think they are a Land Rover or Bentley SUV. 

I have a 3 year old crew cab half ton pickup. I am appalled at what those are selling for. So appalled I will probably list it for sale. The problem comes when I get very few deals trying to get into a new one.


----------



## Road Guy

bly I didnt know Loveland had any HOA's?


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> bly I didnt know Loveland had any HOA's?


The BIL is in the northern outskirts of Ft Collins (towards the Budweiser plant). We're currently in a hotel in Loveland near the fairgrounds until the end of this week. 

The BIL has HOA's in his hood, was only able to keep my camper in his driveway for under 24 hours or he'd get fined. It had to be hidden by trees out of sight from the road and neighbor houses.


----------



## Road Guy

I used to like Loveland until I had to deal with their city staff on that i-25 project that’s under construction up there (I was the design mgr on it) but they are clueless!

so you really prepped for it with all the gear you brought!


----------



## blybrook PE

Yes, in prepared for just common issues. I actually expected to get bad diesel in Canada and brought a spare fuel filter. I'll be changing out the primary filter on the engine and the secondary on the rear (in bed) auxiliary fuel tank before heading home.  

One thing driving the alcan, especially in the winter, has tought me is to be prepared for the usual breakdowns. With the way the Canooks are wanting us dirty Americans to get thru the country as fast as possible, I'm carrying enough supplies and tools to fix 75% of the potential issues without having to rely on finding parts. 

Things I'm not carrying: U-joints, thermostat or grease gun. 

I've got tire chains, logging chain, two jacks (one a high lift), rope, spare belt, wire, fuses, oil, filters, antifreeze, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and other miscellaneous parts &amp; pieces (including a soldering iron). 

I knew my oil would need to be changed before driving home, in near 6k since my last change this spring; and normally get 7-8 k between changes.


----------



## Road Guy

Reminds me of my grandfather who kept enough parts in his trunk to rebuild most anything on the road!

ive got to go to Phoenix next week but if you want to to grab a beer let me know- hate to miss an opportunity but I know you have things to deal with while you’re here.


----------



## blybrook PE

The bed of the truck is nearly full of tools / parts / fuel; it really limits what I can buy and haul home! Tires just take up too much damn space...

I'm up for a meetup, beer or other adult beverage while I'm in the area, I'll send ya a PM.


----------



## Orchid PE

blybrook PE said:


> Things I'm not carrying: U-joints, thermostat or grease gun.
> 
> I've got tire chains, logging chain, two jacks (one a high lift), rope, spare belt, wire, fuses, oil, filters, antifreeze, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and other miscellaneous parts &amp; pieces (including a soldering iron).


I try to carry most of this stuff when I go off-roading (aside from the chains and soldering iron). Won't catch me stuck in the middle of the woods broken down and without cell service. 

I think it was just last year that we had to replace a radiator and fix some brake lines while out wheeling. For the radiator we had to send someone out to pick it up. I think we were only down for about an hour.

Not surprisingly, the only vehicles that have broken down have been the Jeeps. My buddy still hasn't put in a new front driveshaft that he broke last trip (jeep).


----------



## Road Guy

I was super pissed when I realized the newer JK jeeps didnt come with a "real" front drive shaft - I order the kit after my lift (the people who put on the lift pointed out where the stock one from michigan was cracked pretty bad)

put this on myself a month ago and its still working it seems 

Jeeps are fun to drive but even a life long jeeper I will admit I replace way more shit on the newer one than I have on the older ones &amp; my other cars (except for the kids Rav4 that thing is a POS)


----------



## Orchid PE

Which drive shaft did you go with? He still hasn't bought one yet.


----------



## Road Guy

Similar to this one but got it from 4Wheel Drive Parts

https://www.extremeterrain.com/rubicon-express-jeep-wrangler-front-cvo-driveshaft-re1883-385.html?utm_content=XTDriveline-Driveshaft|RubiconExpress&amp;T5_Var4=J131219-JL&amp;intl=0&amp;utm_campaign=XTW+Wrangler+Brands+%26+Vehicle+Low&amp;dialogtech=ppc&amp;utm_source=google-pla&amp;utm_medium=shopping&amp;T5_Var2=shopping&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwuL_8BRCXARIsAGiC51CnbpBIwSYnLrR2hiO7OQKzsaL8nlf5CjzbElgPfklsQW97qjn5fswaAsL9EALw_wcB&amp;gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## Orchid PE

He'll probably need to go with something like that. I'm starting to remember what happened; we lifted his jeep, then a few months later the CV joint failed. After some research this apparently a very common problem with lifting jks because of the angle created at the joint. The boot around the joint failed, then the cv joint started to get water and dirt in it until it failed. They make aftermarket driveshafts with high angle cv joints, but idk if that would be better than the shift you have with u joints on both sides. 

----

Just finished the exhaust phase on the yj. It was a much more involved process than the tj I had, but it all worked out in the end. New exhaust manifold, new down pipe, new muffler, new head gasket, new thermostat and gasket, new throttle body gasket, and new cat gasket. She runs MUCH quieter now! I went with a quiet muffler, because I don't like noisy vehicles. 

Next phase will be new leaf springs all around (stock ride height). That one ought to be fun. I've been hitting the bolts that will need to come off with pb blaster whenever I get home from work everyday. Hopefully they'll come off easily.

The phase after that will be finishing touches like new seat belts, sun visors, new winch plate, synthetic winch cable, led headlights, adding a horn, changing oils all over, fixing the cigar lighter, and new motor mounts.


----------



## jeb6294

Driveshaft issues aren’t anything new on Jeep’s. On my TJ, the lift came with brackets to lower the transfer case to keep the angle of the DS workable. Other fix was to do the slip yoke eliminator which called for a longer DS. When you got a longer DS, you got one with better CV joints anyway.


----------



## Road Guy

does the YJ have any oil leaks? That seemed to be my biggest problem- between the rear main seal the oil pan gasket leaks it took me a while to get that stopped.

I put the suspension from a rubicon on the daughters jk - it seems to give about an inch of  extra height.  she has my old 33” tires on it now but it looks like it would run 35’s? (This is the age old question!) - Maybe I can do some trimming and get them on without the actual lift (&amp; avoid the issues above)

been driving around In the snow off and on all day- Tacoma does well but it’s very jerky (like it doesn’t want to let you have any fun) maybe there is a way to turn off the traction control when I’m 4H?

the 2DR Jeep is still the best IMO went to pick up the wife from work, took the long route there- I’ve got around 8-9 inches at our house now and most of the side streets  and non main routes are not plowed at that level So it made for a fun trip...even being an automatic


----------



## Supe

Oh @csb, what have you done?

Wyoming ranked #1 as having the worst drivers in the country.

https://jalopnik.com/how-bad-are-the-drivers-in-your-state-this-new-study-h-1845472281


----------



## jeb6294

Road Guy said:


> I put the suspension from a rubicon on the daughters jk - it seems to give about an inch of  extra height.  she has my old 33” tires on it now but it looks like it would run 35’s? (This is the age old question!) - Maybe I can do some trimming and get them on without the actual lift (&amp; avoid the issues above)


I ended up dropping the transfer case when I did mine and it was really easy. My lift came with two ~1x1 square steel. Take out the 6 or 8 bolts in the T-case skidplate, drop it down about an inch, put the tubes in and reinstall the bolts. I actually ended up with a spare T-case that I got the slip yoke kit installed, the driveshaft and a bigger rear axle but I got rid of the Jeep before I ever got that stuff installed.


----------



## Road Guy

lets just say all the bolts on the daughters jeep are really happy to be "together" - at this point I am tired of climbing underneath it and getting stuff loose - there isnt really rust but those damn bolts just take some elbow grease to 'free"


----------



## csb

Supe said:


> Oh @csb, what have you done?
> 
> Wyoming ranked #1 as having the worst drivers in the country.
> 
> https://jalopnik.com/how-bad-are-the-drivers-in-your-state-this-new-study-h-1845472281





> Drunkest-driving states
> 
> 
> When it comes to the drunkest-driving states, they’re all neighbors. While it may seem like a coincidence that the top four states are all next to each other, CDC data confirms it is not. The CDC’s BRFSSP data on alcohol consumption by state has the highest-consuming states all in the same neighborhood. It’s likely something about the cold northern states where people like to drink and the rural cities don’t have much of a cab service.
> 
> 
> Wyoming
> 
> North Dakota
> 
> South Dakota
> 
> Nebraska
> 
> Alaska
> 
> 
> Worst driving habits (most citations)
> 
> 
> The common citations we see while analyzing driver history tend to be tickets for things like texting while driving, not wearing a seatbelt, failure to signal and other minor citations. While minor in nature, they are bad driving habits that lead to accidents. States that ranked poorly for citations coincide with those with the worst driving behaviors. We could imagine citations for texting “Roll Tide” while driving landed Alabama on the top of our list.
> 
> 
> Alabama
> 
> Arkansas
> 
> Wyoming
> 
> Kansas
> 
> South Carolina


We usually get dinged based on population density, but these two are pretty high up there with reasons you'll die on the roads- alcohol and no seat belt. These numbers are skewed towards fatalities because we don't have a primary seat belt law- so your seat belt usage only comes up if you're pulled over for something else or you've been in a crash.


----------



## Road Guy

&amp; probably some part has to be lack of enforcement? - when we make the drive from Denver to South Dakota you have a 0-1% chance of seeing a lawdawg on the road.  Even in Colorado its next to nothing - I think when you have close to 0% chance of seeing a cop it makes some people drive really stupid = accidents that waste everyones time.

Even driving in Atlanta shitty traffic due to all the NE'ers moving down like locust, I would rarely make a commute and not see the po po...


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> &amp; probably some part has to be lack of enforcement? - when we make the drive from Denver to South Dakota you have a 0-1% chance of seeing a lawdawg on the road.  Even in Colorado its next to nothing - I think when you have close to 0% chance of seeing a cop it makes some people drive really stupid = accidents that waste everyones time.
> 
> Even driving in Atlanta shitty traffic due to all the NE'ers moving down like locust, I would rarely make a commute and not see the po po...


Damn GA cops camping out on the overpasses...

VA may be the worst though.  I think you can hit a golf ball from anywhere on the highway and have it land on a trooper.


----------



## Road Guy

Ohhh.. that’s why the default company car rental is a Tahoe...... and  not the Camry I downgraded to to save a few bucks...


----------



## Orchid PE

Just fixed the horn button on my steering wheel and then installed one of those ahooga horns. I love it! (On the yj)


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Ohhh.. that’s why the default company car rental is a Tahoe...... and  not the Camry I downgraded to to save a few bucks...


If its got full coverage, I'd be driving that thing through there like a rally car.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> If its got full coverage, I'd be driving that thing through there like a rally car.


RG returning the car:


----------



## Supe

I was thinking more along the lines from Jackass, when they demo-derby'd a rental Ford Contour.


----------



## blybrook PE

Well the BIL didn't get hit by his HOA for me working on my truck in his driveway (yet). No one stopped to comment or take photos either, so I reckon that's a bonus.

Took care of replacing the front driveshaft, an oil change, replacing the cabin air filter, and helped repack the bearings on the BIL's trailer.

Only items left before leaving CO is swapping out the tires for my winter set, fuel filter replacement and changing the air filter.  Took care of the coolant leak at the end of October but had to do that one in the back yard where no one could see the coolant dripping onto the ground. Probably take care of the fuel filter back there as well since I know I'll loose about a pint of diesel.


----------



## Road Guy

anyone have this type of roof top carrier for their vehicle?  I know you can take these off but I cant seem to figure out how?  Its a Thule and even checking online cant seem to find which model they were  

Jeep doesnt fit in the garage with these on..


----------



## blybrook PE

Road Guy said:


> anyone have this type of roof top carrier for their vehicle?  I know you can take these off but I cant seem to figure out how?  Its a Thule and even checking online cant seem to find which model they were
> 
> Jeep doesnt fit in the garage with these on..
> 
> View attachment 19543


Sawz-all. Takes care of many problems. 
 

Other option is to speed into another garage or area with reduced clearance to rip it off and then go home.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> anyone have this type of roof top carrier for their vehicle?  I know you can take these off but I cant seem to figure out how?  Its a Thule and even checking online cant seem to find which model they were
> 
> Jeep doesnt fit in the garage with these on..
> 
> View attachment 19543


Mr. Tex says he needs more photos.  It opens from the clamp or the shoe...Need the back pic and clamp.  What's in the hole from the clamp?  Does it need a key? And more questions. Maybe DM me...


----------



## Road Guy

I do want to be able to put it back on! 
 

I’ll get some more pics in the daylight - the hole is where you can put a key but I’ve never added the key.

I remember it sort of snapped in at a 45 deg angle I think. With the bar in place -  But that was 4 years ago


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> I do want to be able to put it back on!
> 
> 
> I’ll get some more pics in the daylight - the hole is where you can put a key but I’ve never added the key.
> 
> I remember it sort of snapped in at a 45 deg angle I think. With the bar in place -  But that was 4 years ago


Mr. Tex says you need the key...or a sawz-all.  Post more pics...


----------



## Road Guy

There was never a key installed - there were plastic plugs where the keys/ tumbler would go but they fell out. 
 

ive just got to figure out the right tuck maneuver that makes the tower unlock from the shoe


----------



## Orchid PE

Road Guy said:


> There was never a key installed - there were plastic plugs where the keys/ tumbler would go but they fell out.
> 
> 
> ive just got to figure out the right tuck maneuver that makes the tower unlock from the shoe


Looks more like a Yakima than a Thule. Try grasping the front of the tower and pulling it forward. That's what mine do.

 About 30s in should look like this...


----------



## Road Guy

Lol- I’m double dumb- totally forgot those towers had the fold out mechanism!

not sure why I had in my head it was a Thule - might have prevented my internet searching for how to remove!


----------



## Road Guy

broke down and picked up the 3 ton harbor freight floor jack over the weekend - other than not recognizing that it came empty and had to run out and grab some hydrauilic oil once I got home, it made some brake pad replacement on the jeep very swift

It has a 20 in lift so does the 35" tires nicely and those things are hard to manhandly by yourself so it was cool to be able to set it just high enough to slip the tire on and off with ease (with some jackstands also in place)


----------



## jeb6294

Sounds like its the same one I got for the truck. Got it specifically for the 20-in lift. Even though the truck is stock, F350's still sit pretty high. Never gotten a jack that didn't come ready to go though.


----------



## Road Guy

yeah I can kick myself for all these years trying to use my little craftsman trolley jack.. it was around $115 so totally worth it

Plus I sold my old jacks on nextdoor for about half what the new one cost.


----------



## jeb6294

Mine ended up being free. I take the truck to the dealership for oil changes, mainly because I got lifetime brakes. Got the oil change and they tell me brakes are still okay.  Couple weeks later front pads are down to metal. Tried to get help from the dealer and nothing so I replaced the front brakes myself...pads, rotors and both calipers...and bought the jack to do it. After filing a complaint with the BBB, got a call from one of their GM's. He looked my information up and saw that my pads were a hair over 3mm. 3mm is the cutoff for replacing pads with their "lifetime brakes". Even the GM said that's fine if you're driving a Fusion, but not a Super Duty. Told me to send in copies of my receipts and I had a check a few days later. Paid for the materials and all the tools I had to get, including my new jack.


----------



## Road Guy

I have no such luck with that - but my younger kid (17) did do his own front brakes on his car last weekend with very little supervision (much to his mothers horror)

right now I am maintaining a fleet of 5 vehicles with varrying levels of help (younger kid helps a lot, middle kid is lukewarm and my older son would prefer to pay people to fill up the windshield washer fluid!


----------



## Orchid PE

I've been needing one of those for a while. Nice to know I'll need hydraulic oil for it.


----------



## jeb6294

Chattaneer PE said:


> I've been needing one of those for a while. Nice to know I'll need hydraulic oil for it.


Might want to check. My jack was ready to go, but that was a year or so ago. Maybe they started shipping them without oil since then to save a couple bucks.


----------



## Road Guy

maybe it was child labor shift change in China that day?  I truned it upside down and it was dry as a bone, agree very weird!

we were supposed to get less than an inch of snow today, ended up with around 5 inches, I took the backroads, tons of mini vans, dodge chargers, and small fwd cars spun out trying to get up hills, so annoying, i had to drive up on the sidewalk a few times to get around them..


----------



## jeb6294

When I was at the VA the street out front wasn’t terribly steep, but it was long and steady. When we’d get snow and all the stupid people would panic and try to bolt for home, we’d sit at the front window and laugh and laugh.

The best we’re the idiots in rear wheel drive cars who would try and go up backwards because somehow that was the same as front wheel drive.


----------



## jeb6294

Well happy F-in holidays...

We got t-boned yesterday in the swagger wagon. We were leaving UDF from the west driveway and were going to go straight across to the Walgreens. Traffic was backed up from 8 Mile past where we were pulling out but had left a gap for us to pull out. Little twit in her BMW didn’t want to wait so she tried to go around the line of traffic and got us square in the driver’s side. When the cops showed up she tried to tell them that she was pulling into the Walgreens too....bullshit. If she was, 1st, she probably wouldn’t have been going fast enough not to stop and 2nd, if she was turning she would have hit us with her front corner. I guarantee she was trying to cut around everybody to get up to the turn lane. We didn’t get a report because the cops were going to turn it over to their traffic guys and they were trying to get ahold of a lady who’d stopped and given us her information cause she saw it happen.


----------



## Violator

OOF -that always sucks. But they did cite her I hope?


----------



## jeb6294

Violator said:


> OOF -that always sucks. But they did cite her I hope?


We haven't heard from the police yet. I can't imagine they wouldn't find her to be at fault, but with the way 2020 has gone so far, who knows.


----------



## Road Guy

I hate when they dont immidealty say who is at fault and not give you a report (or the cliff notes)- some insurance companies are real jerks if they dont assign someone 100% at fault. - Hope you get taken care of!

So we were changing the brakes on my sons car saturday since he was home from college and they were starting to squeak some..

When I was compressing the brake piston back in I noticed some brake fluid dripping down from the egine area, fuck i thought.  I am always very careful to not pull on the brake lines but further inspection revealed the cap to the brake fluid was lose and I guess when I compressed the piston it pushed brake fluid that direction and caused it to run out?  Seemed odd, I tightened the cap and it hasnt leaked anymore, drove it around and it all seems to check out?


----------



## Supe

Must have been REALLY full.


----------



## jeb6294

Her insurance company called today. They talked to the wife since she was driving so I didn't hear exactly what they said, but I heard her tell them a couple times that we haven't even gotten the report from the police yet so I'm wondering if the other chick is trying to say it wasn't her fault. I called our insurance this morning too to at least get the claim process started. So far the only good thing is that her insurance (Grange) and ours (USAA) have the body shop a couple miles from our house on their list of recommended shops so I'm taking it in tomorrow and get an estimate and then figure out which insurance company is going to get the bill once we get the police report.


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> Her insurance company called today. They talked to the wife since she was driving so I didn't hear exactly what they said, but I heard her tell them a couple times that we haven't even gotten the report from the police yet so I'm wondering if the other chick is trying to say it wasn't her fault. I called our insurance this morning too to at least get the claim process started. So far the only good thing is that her insurance (Grange) and ours (USAA) have the body shop a couple miles from our house on their list of recommended shops so I'm taking it in tomorrow and get an estimate and then figure out which insurance company is going to get the bill once we get the police report.


When we just went through all this with Mrs. Supe's CRV, they did everything up to the point of actually cutting the check ahead of time.  They won't release the check until the investigation determines their driver is at fault, and that it's not no fault/shared fault, regardless of what their customer says.  You should be able to search daily for the police report to show up, we weren't notified by the PD when it was ready.


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> I'm wondering if the other chick is trying to say it wasn't her fault.


Of course she is--she was driving a BMW after all.  Nothing's her fault.


----------



## jeb6294

She started bitching when my wife took a picture of her car. “I’d appreciate it if you wouldn’t take any pictures of my car until the police get here”. Not sure what her problem was, other than the fact she’d just hit us, or what difference it makes whether the cops were there or not.


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> She started bitching when my wife took a picture of her car. “I’d appreciate it if you wouldn’t take any pictures of my car until the police get here”. Not sure what her problem was, other than the fact she’d just hit us, or what difference it makes whether the cops were there or not.


That's when you just ignore her.  Crash your car on private property hidden from the road if you don't want people taking pictures of it, Karen.


----------



## Road Guy

also another reminder to get a dash camera - 

yesterday on the way home some dude (audi this time) gets on the interstate, cuts through 5 lanes to the HOV lanes in one manuever only to do the same thing and get right back off 2 exits later... wish I could add some missles to my jeep some days..


----------



## jeb6294

Ran to the body shop this afternoon. The drivers door still works but we haven’t done anything with the sliding door cause, right now it’s still drivable, and I’m afraid if we try to move it we won’t be able to get it shut. Body shop guy didn’t try either but he crawled underneath to look. For the estimate they just priced new doors since they couldn’t see what was going on behind the door. Couldn’t believe it when it showed up and it was $3,500.

TBH, I don’t think the wife or I would have been terribly upset if it was worse and they totaled it. We’d been looking at possible replacements. At the same time, it’s also not the best time to be taking on a new car so if it can be fixed, that’s probably best.


----------



## Supe

When I saw how mangled Mrs. Supe's door was, I was amazingly impressed that it did zero damage to the rocker or pillar, so you may get lucky on a "not too terrible to fix" front.  We had the dealership do the repairs and I'm glad we did.  They were really fast, and fixed everything I was unhappy with, including ordering two pieces of replacement trim that aren't adjustable that I didn't like how the first set of replacements fit (rocker guards and B pillar).  There's some orange peel in one spot if you know where to look (I'm probably the only person who will EVER notice it) and they got a bit careless with the seam sealer on one part of the interior door jamb, but we just wanted the car back at that point.  The dealership also did an electronics check, which a lot of body shop places won't do, to make sure there were no issues with airbags/sensors, window relays, etc.


----------



## jeb6294

You can see the rocker is wrinkled when you open the drivers door, but he said that's the hollow metal so they can usually repair that kind of stuff. The high strength stuff underneath, which would have to be replaced if it's damaged, he said looked good.

That same door was hit before right after we got it...we were dropping the kid off at school and then going to our second oil change when we were hit. Since it was still new, we took it to the shop the dealership recommended which wasn't a good idea. The sliding door has been a bit wonky ever since. You could hit the button to open it and on random occasions it would open and then turn right around and start closing on it's own. If it gets fixed, hopefully they'll do it right this time.


----------



## Supe

Ah, most of our dealerships have their own in-house body shops, they don't farm it out.


----------



## jeb6294

The Kings Auto Mall is in Kings Mill a bit north of town in an area that used to be the middle of nowhere. It became a conglomerate of a bunch of different dealerships in the same spot. They're not all owned by the same person/group, but they share some stuff. There's one service center that does several makes and there's one body shop that most of them use.


----------



## JayKay PE

*is in this thread to learn but to also follow amazing story of jeb and the BMW bitch*


----------



## Road Guy

Im going to be due for a new clutch here in the next year or so probably, i am right at 65K miles since it was last done (damn I drive too much)

When I did the front drive shaft conversion last month it got me thinking that with the lift its pretty easy to get under the jeep and (now that I watched a few online videos on jeep clutch replacement ** printed out a google expert certificate) this does look like the bulk of the work is removing shit that is in the way and lowering the transmission is the part that makes my risk sensor go up?  

Other than having to disconnect and lower the tranny, remove the drives shafts the bulk of it appears to be lots of unbolting and bolting things back on?

I think some of yall have done this before but is it worth taking a weekend and learning something new and putting in a clutch for parts at around $800 bucks  or should I just pay the $1800 bucks to have someone do it and enjoy my weekend?


----------



## MA_PE

My son noticed his 2009 cobalt spilling gas whenever he filled it up but wasn’t leaking otherwise.  Took it to a local Firestone shop on the AFB where he is currently stationed. They said it was the filler neck and they could replace it for him.  Well a week and $450 later he picks up the car and his tach and fuel gage start acting funny.  They read and then drop to zero momentarily and then spring back up.  Both gages do this like every 5 seconds or so with the car idling.  This is in the parking lot before he left the shop.  He goes back into the shop and says WTF the car never did this before.  Their reply is that it’s an instrument cluster issue and they never touched the cluster so it’s not their problem.  Sounds like they may have loosened the connector at the fuel gage sender and no he’s got intermittent ground.  Looked online and found this response “You are losing GMLan between BCM and your instrument panel. Try changing the top left hand fuse on BCM fuse block called ECM/TCM. It should really be called GMLan.”.  Found a similar reply at a different site.  Anybody have any ideas?


----------



## wilheldp_PE

MA_PE said:


> My son noticed his 2009 cobalt spilling gas whenever he filled it up but wasn’t leaking otherwise.  Took it to a local Firestone shop on the AFB where he is currently stationed. They said it was the filler neck and they could replace it for him.  Well a week and $450 later he picks up the car and his tach and fuel gage start acting funny.  They read and then drop to zero momentarily and then spring back up.  Both gages do this like every 5 seconds or so with the car idling.  This is in the parking lot before he left the shop.  He goes back into the shop and says WTF the car never did this before.  Their reply is that it’s an instrument cluster issue and they never touched the cluster so it’s not their problem.  Sounds like they may have loosened the connector at the fuel gage sender and no he’s got intermittent ground.  Looked online and found this response “You are losing GMLan between BCM and your instrument panel. Try changing the top left hand fuse on BCM fuse block called ECM/TCM. It should really be called GMLan.”.  Found a similar reply at a different site.  Anybody have any ideas?


I don't know how this could possibly be a fuse issue.  Once a fuse is blown, it's blown.  There should be no intermittent faults caused by a fuse.  

The loose ground sounds far more likely.  A loose ground on a car causes all kinds of wonky shit.


----------



## Supe

Road Guy said:


> Im going to be due for a new clutch here in the next year or so probably, i am right at 65K miles since it was last done (damn I drive too much)
> 
> When I did the front drive shaft conversion last month it got me thinking that with the lift its pretty easy to get under the jeep and (now that I watched a few online videos on jeep clutch replacement ** printed out a google expert certificate) this does look like the bulk of the work is removing shit that is in the way and lowering the transmission is the part that makes my risk sensor go up?
> 
> Other than having to disconnect and lower the tranny, remove the drives shafts the bulk of it appears to be lots of unbolting and bolting things back on?
> 
> I think some of yall have done this before but is it worth taking a weekend and learning something new and putting in a clutch for parts at around $800 bucks  or should I just pay the $1800 bucks to have someone do it and enjoy my weekend?


If you have a transmission jack or a helper it's not bad.  You can do it without a transmission jack, it just gets a bit sketchy.  Replace the throwout bearing at the same time if its mechanical.  If its hydraulic, that's your call.  Hydraulic throwout bearings can be a nightmare to bleed sometimes.  I actually have to pull a vacuum on the one in my racecar AND pump from the top, still takes an hour on a good day.  Only specialty tools you should need are a flywheel wrench/stop to keep the engine from turning over while you torque the pressure plate down, and a torque wrench.


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> Only specialty tools you should need are a flywheel wrench/stop to keep the engine from turning over while you torque the pressure plate down, and a torque wrench.


Don't even need the torque wrench...just go to Google and look up how many ugga duggas it is.


----------



## Road Guy

I bought a torgue wrench when I did the front drive shaft - its 15 ft-lbs or 3 ugga guggas

I have one of my older hydraulic jacks I see lots of people use that to lower the transmission?

I may just pay the money but with no ski season this year I need something to do,  - i figure worst case I have it towed to the shop and bring all the pieces in a box?


----------



## Supe

jeb6294 said:


> Don't even need the torque wrench...just go to Google and look up how many ugga duggas it is.


I'm used to my crazy dual clutch racing bits.  My trust of ugga duggas ends at about 7000 RPMs.



Road Guy said:


> I have one of my older hydraulic jacks I see lots of people use that to lower the transmission?


That's what I use, they're just awkward to balance on a little 4" circular pad with a 2x4 on it.  I like to have someone else balance while I lower it or vice versa so I don't have to hold it myself using the thigh master approach.


----------



## MA_PE

Thought I’d post the “rest of the story” with the electrical gremlins on my son’s 09 cobalt.  In addition to the gages acting up his radio stopped working too.  He took it to a local garage.  They asked how long this device was in his CD player.  Apparently his gf gave him a phone holder that is supported by inserting into the CD slot.  He said it likely been there 6 months or so.   They said they took it out and everything started behaving as it should.  The thought it that this device somehow activated the CD player to think a CD had been inserted and the player mechanism was trying to read it constantly causing static/noise that corrupted the signal to his gages.  Sounds plausible and so far so good.   Only charged him $40 for the check.   Fingers crossed that’s all it was.   I never heard of such a phone holder and never would’ve thought that could be the cause.


----------



## Road Guy

That is crazy if thats what caused it?  is it still working okay?


----------



## bwin12

Fine, I'll ask because we all want to know, but nobody will ask: Can we get a BMW BItch update?


----------



## jeb6294

We got a copy of the report and it says on the first page that vehicle 01.was at fault but a couple pages later there’s nothing about her getting cited. Says she went left of center but it also says we failed to yield. I guess her insurance is using that as an excuse to say it’s not their problem. Wife called the sheriff to ask how they came up with that nonsense while I was ranting in the background. So, what, we failed to yield to someone who was driving down the wrong side of the road?

Wife called our insurance and they told us to take it in and get it fixed and then they would sue her insurance because they also agreed that BMW bitch was clearly at fault.


----------



## jeb6294

On a separate but slightly connected not, the wife got a new car yesterday. She’d been talking about getting something small with better gas mileage but we put it on hold until we knew what was going on with the minivan. Since the minivan is getting fixed, she picked up a 2020 VW Jetta. She was looking at used stuff,  but I guess COVID slowed sales so much, that the 2020’s were better deals. Turbo 4-cyl with a 6-speed manual...it’s really nice for a base model and a lot of fun to drive.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> That is crazy if thats what caused it?  is it still working okay?


Yep.  No problems since.


----------



## MA_PE

Road Guy said:


> That is crazy if thats what caused it?  is it still working okay?


Yep.  No problems since.


----------



## Road Guy

man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!

early xmas gift to myself?


----------



## chart94 PE

Road Guy said:


> man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!
> 
> early xmas gift to myself?


Yes. Treat yourself!


----------



## bwin12

Road Guy said:


> man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!
> 
> early xmas gift to myself?


1. I thought Craig, CO was the meth capital

2. Pueblo is the Grow House Capital of CO (maybe USA/World, but no facts to back that up)

3. Yes, buy 1 or 2 and only if it has a 258 I-6

In the late 90's I bought a '79 CJ-5 that I drove around the farm/woods that I grew up on. Loved that thing. My dad brought me to the tire shop and we grabbed a matching set of 33x12.50's that were cupped really bad and not good on pavement anymore. They rubbed (a lot) but looked awesome. I remember if I ever rolled it over my head would have been the first line of defense because the floor where the rollcage mounted was so rusted out.


----------



## bwin12

This is my kids snowmobile. I’m trying to remove the drive sprocket from the jack shaft. I assume it’s been corroding and essentially welding the 3/4” shaft and key connection together for the last 15 years. The picture shows a 3 jaw puller and I’ve bent the sprocket outwards so much it’s ready to explode off there. 
 

I checked a parts diagram, it’s suppose to slide off, there’s no set screw or other securing devise.
 

Before I popped the rivets and removed the footwell/dead pedal I used wedges on the 3 sides I could reach. I’ve soaked it in PB Blaster. 

Is there anything I can do other than add heat? Or start cutting with a disc grinder?


----------



## blybrook PE

Typically when you've already put enough pressure to warp the gear, heat isn't going to help right away. 

Using a brass punch held by a set of pliers and a 2 lb Sledge, hit the center casing on the gear near the shear key slot. Rotate and hit again.

The vibration in conjunction with the pressure is usually enough to pop it loose without getting out the torch or grinder.


----------



## bwin12

blybrook PE said:


> The vibration in conjunction with the pressure is usually enough to pop it loose without getting out the torch or grinder.


Finally got around to it (the garage is right under bedrooms, which severely cuts down on hammering time) and after cranking on the puller and hammering around the shaft and key it finally came off. Thanks for the advice. 

The new sprocket has a hub so different tooth configurations can be utilized, so I or the next owner should never have this issue again.


----------



## envirotex

Road Guy said:


> man so Ive seen at least 4 really nice CJ-5's for sale lately, all out of Pueblo ( Colorados meth capital) - and all under $5K - the need some work, but so tempting!
> 
> early xmas gift to myself?


Soooo....?


----------



## DVINNY

I'm always dealing with an automobile issue of some sort,

current problem:
my 16 year old took my LJ Wrangler and slid sideways into a tree at a decent speed off-road. About $7K worth of damage. 

on the bright side, I'm using this as an opportunity to remove the old shitty Rough Country lift and am installing a MetalCloak 3.5" kit that is much better.


----------



## pbrme

Took me a minute to get caught up, looks like there are other Wrangler peeps on the thread. Here's mine, 2018 JKU Recon:


In late 2017, someone rear-ended my dodge ram. After I got it back from the shop, the wife asked me over breakfast one weekend "how's it feel being the last day as a non-jeep owner?" 2hrs later we were test driving this one and doin paperwork. I've always wanted one, and absolutely love it. It's the last year of the JK series (the 2018 JL's overlapped the same year). Added a few mods here and there, but the major one was a synthetic winch to the stock HR bumper. Put up a DIY hoist in my garage to stow the top for the bikini. 35K miles on it, and taking it everywhere to expedite new rubber and lift in near future.


----------



## envirotex

DVINNY said:


> I'm always dealing with an automobile issue of some sort,
> 
> current problem:
> my 16 year old took my LJ Wrangler and slid sideways into a tree at a decent speed off-road. About $7K worth of damage.
> 
> on the bright side, I'm using this as an opportunity to remove the old shitty Rough Country lift and am installing a MetalCloak 3.5" kit that is much better.


Haha. I feel like I might know you IRL...one of our shop clients has a very similar story right now...Just kidding, of course, but seems to be a pretty common dilemma with Jeeps and teens.


----------



## bwin12

pbrme said:


> 35K miles on it, and taking it everywhere to expedite new rubber and lift in near future.


This is a good line.


----------



## jeb6294

Texas guys in the Superduty group I'm in on FB are flipping out. For those that don't know, if it gets cold enough, diesel turns into jello, although it's got to be really cold because of the additives they put in it. Apparently, they're being told that diesel in Texas is basically always a "summer blend" with no additives because it doesn't get cold enough there. Not sure that I buy that.


----------



## blybrook PE

Summer blend in Alaska is typically good to zero as we can hit that temp during the "summer" season, but it will possibly smoke a bit. As far as I'm aware, this blend is typical in the lower 48. 

Winter blend is good to -40. There's no need for it in Texas at the temps their expecting.

Worst case, grab a few bottles of power service white additive and mix it in the tank yourself during each fill up. Keep a bottle of red on hand for if you do experience a gelling event.


----------



## jeb6294

It’s getting pretty brutal....the northern guys are giving them all kinds of shit.


----------



## bwin12

My dad buys bulk diesel for his equipment in central Maine. I don't know the exact details, but he generally puts a 50/50 mix or better of Number 1 (kerosene) with his normal #2 (home hearing oil). Obviously, this is different when it goes in a truck engine (road taxes). He could run kerosene year round, but its more expensive.


----------



## envirotex

Working on this in the shop...


----------



## Flyer_PE

envirotex said:


> Working on this in the shop...
> View attachment 21319


I gotta ask, is that the final ride height or just how it sits right now?


----------



## envirotex

Flyer_PE said:


> I gotta ask, is that the final ride height or just how it sits right now?


To be determined...but, approximately. It will have about 800 lbs of high seats and hunting rig equipment loaded into it, so that will lower it some. Still trying to decide whether or not to put bigger tires on it...


----------



## pbrme

envirotex said:


> To be determined...but, approximately. It will have about 800 lbs of high seats and hunting rig equipment loaded into it, so that will lower it some. Still trying to decide whether or not to put bigger tires on it...


Ok makes sense now. Bigger is better. Don't forget the brush guard and winch.


----------



## Supe

I remain unbelievably envious of that shop, Tex.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> I remain unbelievably envious of that shop, Tex.


Ditto. I lost access to the shop I built the tractor in when my buddy moved to TN. There will be a decent shop built at the next house.


----------



## envirotex

pbrme said:


> Ok makes sense now. Bigger is better. Don't forget the brush guard and winch.


Hmmm. The client hasn't asked for that yet...not sure how to integrate those with the existing grill. He's more interested in the gun racks and the fold down bar in the back.


Supe said:


> I remain unbelievably envious of that shop, Tex.


Like I said, we need some one who can weld whenever you get ready to retire...


----------



## Supe

envirotex said:


> Hmmm. The client hasn't asked for that yet...not sure how to integrate those with the existing grill. He's more interested in the gun racks and the fold down bar in the back.
> 
> Like I said, we need some one who can weld whenever you get ready to retire...


I think I'm ready!


----------



## Supe

A/C crapped out in my Civic, 2 months out of warranty, only 19k miles. If its the condenser, its covered for 10 years because they acknowledged that its defective, but from what I'm reading, a ton of people also have problems with the compressor which is more like a $2000 fix due to parts cost. Honda knows its a problem, there are multiple class action suits, but refuses to do a recall or extended warranty on the entire AC system, which is BS, since a condenser leak will also cause compressor failure due to lack of lubrication from the refrigerant.

If its the compressor, I am going to have to get on the phone and chew out the Honda USA customer service reps until they give me a "good will warranty", which can cover 90%+ of the repair costs.


----------



## jeb6294

Stupid millennials. Ended up making a few fixes to the stepdaughter's car over the last couple weeks...new speakers up front and fixed the lid on the center console.

They asked if they could borrow our minivan to take down to Florida so we swapped cars and I got to drive a Mazda 3 for a while. Stereo sounded like crap and the stupid armrest/console lid wobbled like crazy. Played with the balance and no sound from the front door. Popped the panel off and the speaker was* blown up*...not just cheesy paper speaker with a rip, this thing was blowed up. Got some Kenwoods on sale for $30 at Best Buy and some of those stupid plastic pins from AutoZone and took care of that. Took about 5 minutes on Google to figure out the console was, literally, a 10 minute fix. Pop the back of the console off, tap a couple hinge pins back in and put the cover back on.

I probably would have done this stuff anyway, because it only ended up costing $40 for parts and some of my time, but it's still infuriating that they just bitch about it instead of seeing if they can fix it. Other reason I did it is because it's actually my wife's car (long story) and step daughter has been talking about getting a new car so this one will come back here and get passed down to one of the boys in a couple years.


----------



## DVINNY

DVINNY said:


> 1968 Camaro Convertible
> 
> 327 Engine
> 
> 4 barrel, dual exhaust
> 
> (My Profile pic)
> 
> Other vehicles on the premises:
> 
> 2004 Trailblazer EXT V8 (ole' faithful)
> 
> 2007 Volvo XC90 V8 (Wife's)
> 
> 2015 Tahoe (work provided)


WOW, a lot has changed for me since this post in this thread. I moved to a different house for one,

I still have the Camaro, but the 327 and entire drive train from that photo is gone.
Since then, I built a 383 stroker, 490HP, 505TQ, 700r4 trans, 12-bolt posi rear with 3:73's, it's a "whole different car" now.

Also, I added another toy a couple years ago that takes just as much $$ out of my savings. I bought an '06 Wrangler LJ (unlimited) that had low miles on it, still only have 81k on it now. I installed a 3.5" MetalCloak lift, 33's, new EAG bumbers, smittybuilt nerf bars to match the bar doors, etc.


----------



## pbrme

^Nice to see someone else running the badland brand.


----------



## DVINNY

pbrme said:


> ^Nice to see someone else running the badland brand.


I bought it in a hurry at Harbor Freight, as I didn't want the empty bumper, at it was obviously a good deal. In hind sight, I probably would have bought a WARN, but in the 2 times that I've actually used the winch, it has performed perfectly.


----------



## Supe

I have the 12K Badland winch on my trailer in case I ever had to drag a disabled race car up onto it. That thing is a tank. 

Honda dealership called, AC issue was only the condenser, so being fixed at no cost. First good news I've had in a while.


----------



## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> I have the 12K Badland winch on my trailer in case I ever had to drag a disabled race car up onto it. That thing is a tank.
> 
> Honda dealership called, AC issue was only the condenser, so being fixed at no cost. First good news I've had in a while.


How do you power the winch on the trailer? Dedicated battery or power from the tow vehicle? I have the physical mount in place on mine but haven't pulled the trigger for the winch yet. Not all that jazzed about having another battery to maintain.


----------



## pbrme

DVINNY said:


> I bought it in a hurry at Harbor Freight, as I didn't want the empty bumper, at it was obviously a good deal. In hind sight, I probably would have bought a WARN, but in the 2 times that I've actually used the winch, it has performed perfectly.


Yeah I probably have the same one @Supe mentioned installed on my Rubi, just haven't had to use it yet for recovery. It has wireless, mil-spec water and dust proof, synthetic. The equivalent Warn version was about 3x more. I figured for what little I'd use it, it's a good price point. Also, there's a HF in about every major town so finding parts for them should be relatively easy If I had to.


----------



## Supe

pbrme said:


> Yeah I probably have the same one @Supe mentioned installed on my Rubi, just haven't had to use it yet for recovery. It has wireless, mil-spec water and dust proof, synthetic. The equivalent Warn version was about 3x more. I figured for what little I'd use it, it's a good price point. Also, there's a HF in about every major town so finding parts for them should be relatively easy If I had to.


Yep. It doesn't even audibly change pitch trying to pull my cars rolling up on to the trailer. Strong enough for anything I'll ever need it for.


----------



## envirotex

DVINNY said:


> Also, I added another toy a couple years ago that takes just as much $$ out of my savings.


You know, they're saying now is a time to invest in tangible things...

Glad to hear about the upgrades in the Camaro...post some pics if you've got 'em!


----------



## DVINNY

View attachment IMG_8293.MOV


----------



## DVINNY

The new 383 stroker, 750 cfm Edelbrock, FlowTech headers, true dual exhaust with Flowmaster FX mufflers.
I upgraded to a 4-core radiator with the engine change as well.
I installed the March Performance Serpentine Billet Aluminum Kit on it too,


----------



## Supe

So after 9 failed attempts at getting my transmission back in the racecar over a year ago, I stepped away from the garage for a while for a much needed mental break. For some reason, it just would not cooperate and seat the input shaft into the pilot bearing. For whatever reason I got a bug up my ass to try it again yesterday. Took pressure plate off, again, realigned, again, and the trans slid in with zero fight whatsoever. 10th time's a charm, I guess...


----------



## snickerd3

Mr snick's car is at the shop today getting a recalled fuel pump replaced. They are supposed taking the back seat out to get access. lets hope they don't spill anything inside the car.


----------



## Supe

snickerd3 said:


> Mr snick's car is at the shop today getting a recalled fuel pump replaced. They are supposed taking the back seat out to get access. lets hope they don't spill anything inside the car.


They shouldn't. There's no carpet under there, should just be a metal bulkhead with direct access to the top of the fuel tank, so they can pull the whole pump/level assembly out in one piece.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

As mentioned in another thread, I have a service appointment to get the 12v battery in my Tesla replaced for the 2nd time. This is a notable service appointment because it is the first one that I am being charged for. It's going to be about $200 for parts and labor. But they are still coming to do it in the parking lot at the golf course while I'm on the course. It's also pretty irritating because it's obvious they've done something wrong in the design that is causing 12v batteries to fail more often than in other cars.


----------



## snickerd3

Supe said:


> They shouldn't. There's no carpet under there, should just be a metal bulkhead with direct access to the top of the fuel tank, so they can pull the whole pump/level assembly out in one piece.


mr snick picked up the car and the inside smelled like gasoline. he had to drive home with the windows open and left them open over night to let it air out.


----------



## Supe

Sounds like they got sloppy and didn't use a catch bin when pulling the assembly out!


----------



## pbrme

@snickerd3 did it smell like cat pee in the morning? We have a problem with open windows and Toms in our neighborhood, specifically our garage cat. He likes to claim our vehicles as his, which potentially invites others to challenge him. It's frustrating to say the least.


----------



## snickerd3

pbrme said:


> @snickerd3 did it smell like cat pee in the morning? We have a problem with open windows and Toms in our neighborhood, specifically our garage cat. He likes to claim our vehicles as his, which potentially invites others to challenge him. It's frustrating to say the least.


that would have to be one skinny kitty. the windows were only open a couple inches. The coyotes and such keep the tomcat population by us to a minimum, the feral cats prefer living in town with the denser housing. If only the squirrel population could be reduced. I've only seen the occasional indoor/outdoor cat outdoors since our neighbor with the 100% outdoor cats moved several years ago.


----------



## jeb6294

The VW is a hoot to drive...having a manual transmission again is great...but there are some things about it that make me want to smack a Kraut upside the head.

The wife got a screw in her tire yesterday. Fortunately she was able to make it home, but when I went to take the tire off, there's no spare, no jack, no lug wrench, no repair kit. The only thing where the spare is supposed to be was a little 12V air pump. Call me crazy, but I've never had a tire just lose air. It's always been something that requires a repair or changing the tire. Guess I'll have to see about putting together some repair stuff and stashing it where the spare's supposed to be.


----------



## mudpuppy

This is common across all brands now, not just German. Some vehicles the spare tire is an option you can buy. Others, like mine, there is no option for a spare. But at least mine came with a jack and wrench so I can remove the wheel if necessary.


----------



## jeb6294

That’s what got me the most. If I’d been with her, there wasn’t anything we could have done. At least with a jack and a plug kit, we could have made it home or to Tire Discounters for a proper patch. They can call it “cost savings”, but that’s BS. You can buy a jack from Harbor Freight for $25 so you know VW could get them for half that and a cheapie steel wheel with a donut couldn’t be more than $50.


----------



## bwin12

jeb6294 said:


> At least with a jack and a plug kit, we could have made it home or to Tire Discounters for a proper patch.


Wait. A plug isn't a proper patch? I have been doing this wrong for over 20 years...

Not having something is BS. I think my wife's Leaf has a repair kit but no spare to "keep the weight low".


----------



## jeb6294

bwin12 said:


> Wait. A plug isn't a proper patch? I have been doing this wrong for over 20 years...
> 
> Not having something is BS. I think my wife's Leaf has a repair kit but no spare to "keep the weight low".


Not in Ohio at least. The car only has 6k miles on it so the tires are still brand new. I called Tire Discounters and they said that, in Ohio, they are not allowed to plug tires. They have to be patched. If you go to the store and buy a plug, you can do it yourself.


----------



## bwin12

jeb6294 said:


> If you go to the store and buy a plug, you can do it yourself.


I plugged a motorcycle (600 cc sportbike) tire once. And I don't mean temporarily to get home. Not my finest moment. 

If I am being honest I have to say I probably would have not plugged the front tire, but I figured I was safe(ish) plugging the rear.


----------



## jeb6294

If the tire had more miles on it, I would have just run to the store and gotten more plugs, but since it was a brand new tire I went ahead and ponied up the $30 and had TD do a proper patch.


----------



## Supe

Was the OEM tire one of those run-flats? That's how a lot of OEM's are justifying doing away with the spare now, even though run-flat tires are trash and they know everyone gets rid of them at the first replacement interval.


----------



## jeb6294

Definitely not a run-flat. That’s one of the things I told the guy at TD…I know some cars had started doing away with spares, but I thought they were cars with run-flats.


----------



## jeb6294

So…we are now boat people. The in-laws got a new boat so we bought their old one. It’s 34 years old, but I know how well they take care of their stuff so it still in amazing shape and despite the age, I’ve always liked the look of it. Picked it up last night and took it out this afternoon for the first time (as owners, been out with them plenty of times as passengers).

Damn if it doesn’t look good behind the truck too….


----------



## Supe

I'm not a boat guy, but I really want to drive one of those supercharged mini jet boats after seeing them on the Cletus Macfarland youtube channel.


----------



## jeb6294

Supe said:


> I'm not a boat guy, but I really want to drive one of those supercharged mini jet boats after seeing them on the Cletus Macfarland youtube channel.


OMG…don’t. I started to fall down that YouTube rabbit hole a couple weeks ago. I am waiting to see what happens with their $2,500 race boat challenge though.


----------



## jeb6294

Took our first trip out on the Ohio River and almost managed to sink. All boats have a drain plug so rain water can drain. In our case, it’s a rubber compression plug that you put in and then flip a lever over to expand the plug. There was some debris in the river from recent storms, but not too bad. I’m guessing there was enough that something popped the lever back out. We got back to the dock at the boat ramp and the bilge pump was working overtime. Ran to get the truck and when we pulled it out, there was a big stream of water where our drain plug used to be. Got a new one this morning that screws in to compress the plug and new lever type for a backup.


----------



## jeb6294

The wife was stuck working on Saturday but weather wasn’t too bad…about 80 but overcast so not too hot…so I took the boys out on the river. A little nervous cause I figured I’d basically be unloading/loading solo, but they ended up helping quite a bit. Cruised into downtown Cincy and docked at Hooters for some lunch. Hooters is about your only choice at the moment in downtown because docks are embarrassingly lacking. Headed back upriver where there’s not as much traffic and let Jack take the wheel just so he could see how everything works just in case he needs to be able to in an emergency. Little SOB went halfway to New Richmond before I got him to turn us around. Kept inching the throttle up too thinking I wouldn’t notice. He did good though.


----------



## mudpuppy

jeb6294 said:


> Hooters is about your only choice at the moment in downtown because docks are embarrassingly lacking.



Sure, that's your excuse. I'm sure the boys enjoyed it!


----------



## jeb6294

You can check Google maps to verify, and I actually do like their wings. Not the best but better than the other big chains.

There are a couple little places up and down the river with docks once you get away from downtown. They’ve been trying to get some riverfront docks on the Cincinnati side of the river for years but the city Gov’t keeps screwing it up. It’s a shame because there’s a great entertainment area and both stadiums right there.


----------



## DLD PE

jeb6294 said:


> You can check Google maps to verify, and I actually do like their wings. Not the best but better than the other big chains.
> 
> There are a couple little places up and down the river with docks once you get away from downtown. They’ve been trying to get some riverfront docks on the Cincinnati side of the river for years but the city Gov’t keeps screwing it up. It’s a shame because there’s a great entertainment area and both stadiums right there.


Google check says:


----------



## Orchid PE

So the wife and kids got in a car accident Tuesday night, everyone is doing good but the car is a total loss. It was a Chevy Equinox 2014.

We're currently thinking about:
Toyota 4runner
Toyota Venza
Tesla Model 3
Volkswagon ID.4

Me and my wife have both driven my buddy's Tesla and it was awesome, but I've been hearing things about their reliability. However, I like the technology and the Tesla brand as a whole.

We looked into the Volkswagon ID.4 because it is a little larger than the Model 3 and it's eligible for the $7,500 tax credit, but it doesn't have the type of spec's I would want to see out of a new EV.

The Venza has a "full EV" mode, but from what I've read it's only for driving short distances, like in a parking lot or drive thru. However, it still has some nice features, is a nice car, and is a Toyota.

For the longest time we were wanting our next family car to be the Toyota 4runner, but for the price you pay you're not getting the same interior luxury as other vehicles in the same price range. But it would be a very reliable car. I currently drive a Tacoma, so almost identical mechanically.

I'm still pushing for the Tesla at the moment because of the cool features, and being an electrical engineer I think it's fitting. I also think over the next 5-6 years we're going to see more and more EVs, so the price of gas will continue to go up adding to the monthly cost of the vehicle. Not to mention no oil changes, transmission fluid change, coolant, etc. The only maintenance Tesla suggests is brake fluid check every 2 years and changing the air filter for the cabin AC. However, Tesla vehicles are not eligible for the EV tax credit.


----------



## DLD PE

Orchid PE said:


> So the wife and kids got in a car accident Tuesday night, everyone is doing good but the car is a total loss. It was a Chevy Equinox 2014.
> 
> We're currently thinking about:
> Toyota 4runner
> Toyota Venza
> Tesla Model 3
> Volkswagon ID.4
> 
> Me and my wife have both driven my buddy's Tesla and it was awesome, but I've been hearing things about their reliability. However, I like the technology and the Tesla brand as a whole.
> 
> We looked into the Volkswagon ID.4 because it is a little larger than the Model 3 and it's eligible for the $7,500 tax credit, but it doesn't have the type of spec's I would want to see out of a new EV.
> 
> The Venza has a "full EV" mode, but from what I've read it's only for driving short distances, like in a parking lot or drive thru. However, it still has some nice features, is a nice car, and is a Toyota.
> 
> For the longest time we were wanting our next family car to be the Toyota 4runner, but for the price you pay you're not getting the same interior luxury as other vehicles in the same price range. But it would be a very reliable car. I currently drive a Tacoma, so almost identical mechanically.
> 
> I'm still pushing for the Tesla at the moment because of the cool features, and being an electrical engineer I think it's fitting. I also think over the next 5-6 years we're going to see more and more EVs, so the price of gas will continue to go up adding to the monthly cost of the vehicle. Not to mention no oil changes, transmission fluid change, coolant, etc. The only maintenance Tesla suggests is brake fluid check every 2 years and changing the air filter for the cabin AC. However, Tesla vehicles are not eligible for the EV tax credit.


So glad your family is ok!


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Orchid PE said:


> So the wife and kids got in a car accident Tuesday night, everyone is doing good but the car is a total loss. It was a Chevy Equinox 2014.
> 
> We're currently thinking about:
> Toyota 4runner
> Toyota Venza
> Tesla Model 3
> Volkswagon ID.4
> 
> Me and my wife have both driven my buddy's Tesla and it was awesome, but I've been hearing things about their reliability. However, I like the technology and the Tesla brand as a whole.
> 
> We looked into the Volkswagon ID.4 because it is a little larger than the Model 3 and it's eligible for the $7,500 tax credit, but it doesn't have the type of spec's I would want to see out of a new EV.
> 
> The Venza has a "full EV" mode, but from what I've read it's only for driving short distances, like in a parking lot or drive thru. However, it still has some nice features, is a nice car, and is a Toyota.
> 
> For the longest time we were wanting our next family car to be the Toyota 4runner, but for the price you pay you're not getting the same interior luxury as other vehicles in the same price range. But it would be a very reliable car. I currently drive a Tacoma, so almost identical mechanically.
> 
> I'm still pushing for the Tesla at the moment because of the cool features, and being an electrical engineer I think it's fitting. I also think over the next 5-6 years we're going to see more and more EVs, so the price of gas will continue to go up adding to the monthly cost of the vehicle. Not to mention no oil changes, transmission fluid change, coolant, etc. The only maintenance Tesla suggests is brake fluid check every 2 years and changing the air filter for the cabin AC. However, Tesla vehicles are not eligible for the EV tax credit.


Have you looked at the Tesla Model Y? It has more cargo space than the 3, but it’s not as expensive as the S. If I were buying right now, it’d be between the Y and S (currently driving a 2016 Model S).


----------



## bwin12

Good to hear your family is safe. 

My wife has a Nissan Leaf, but I commute in it due to the low cost per mile and it is easier to to park in my small spot at the office downtown. We bought it new in 2017. I will not buy another EV from a primarily internal combustion manufacturer until major changes are in place, and I really wish we had held out for a Model 3 and spent the extra money. Driving the Leaf you can just see/feel how its a gas car with a electric drive (I realize it was a purpose built EV, not a conversion from a IC chassis). I have not driven the Toyota EV's yet, but I would fear the same parallel. 

Also, be careful with where you read about Tesla. There was a ridiculously large amount of people/business that wanted Tesla to fail and there still is a large amount. I read a lot about Tesla from the side of being an EV owner, potential future Tesla owner, shareholder and general fan of EV's. I really don't think they have any legit reliability issues. I would not hesitate to buy one right now. They are singlehandedly pushing the EV industry to get better, more reliable, more range, etc. 

Roughly where are you? I see a ton of them in Denver/north suburbs/Boulder. There doesn't seem to be any apprehension here. But if we go to my parents in central Maine or inlaws in north Cincinnati there is a substantially smaller amount of Tesla's and EV's in general. I feel like EV fandom/acceptance is very regionally specific. 

We really enjoy having an EV in addition to the truck for putting the 5 of us in for local, long distance and hauling big stuff in the back. The EV is reliable, energy efficient and you're right requires no maintenance. Also, you don't stand around at a gas station once a week, just plug it in at night and its fueled up the next morning. Even the Leaf is fun to drive, but its not nearly as cool as a Tesla.


----------



## Orchid PE

wilheldp_PE said:


> Have you looked at the Tesla Model Y?


That's what my buddy has and we liked it, but all the ones available right now are about $15k more than the model 3. There aren't too many available options for bare-bones models.


----------



## snickerd3

The check engine light- emmission system warning popped up on friday. It was popping up all day while I was running errands. I made an appt for today in the middle of all of it. Then it turned off late friday afternoon and hasn't gone back on since. I cancelled. If it goes on again I'll take it in.


----------



## DLD PE

Also, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Toyota. They have an excellent track record in terms of reliability. My wife has a 2015 RAV4 and she loves it. Never had a problem with it.


----------



## snickerd3

test drive for comfort! While Toyotas are great I find them very uncomfortable to sit in for extended periods of time


----------



## JayKay PE

snickerd3 said:


> test drive for comfort! While Toyotas are great I find them very uncomfortable to sit in for extended periods of time


Yeah, I only love my Corolla because I have bucket seats/heated seats, but I know if I didn't have those features...I prob would not buy. It's a bit uncomfortable and I think my next vehicle I'll be trying out a bunch of different seat types before I settle. But my Corolla is only 5-years only and 75k miles. It still has a long life.


----------



## Orchid PE

bwin12 said:


> Roughly where are you?


Florida. I see Teslas everywhere.

The Tesla is here! I guess I know my wife really well.

She was a little hesitant at first to get the Tesla. She had been wanting a 4runner, but after looking at the crash safety ratings she decided it was a no-go. Then she started looking into the Highlander, but with it's terrible gas mileage it wasn't worth it. When we test drove my buddy's Model Y, she immediately got out and said, "I want one." But a few days later she was back onto gas vehicles. She looked into the Rav4 and Venza, and those were her final choices until I convinced her to test out the Model 3 for a week (through Carvana). I had been wanting a Tesla for a while, but she didn't think she wanted to go all electric.

After having it only a day she told me she thought she was going to hate it, but now she really likes it and wants to drive it everywhere. Also, when Carvana delivered the car they told us it didn't come with a charger and they had to purchase a new one. Well, I guess they didn't know the Tesla had a frunk, because when I went to put the new charger in the frunk I found the Tesla charger. So now I have two chargers, but the one Carvana bought charges at 7mi/hr compared to the Tesla's 5mi/hr (both on 120V at the moment). Also, it didn't come with floor mats, but they ordered brand new ones and are having them shipped to the house. I also found a Tesla to J1772 charger adapter in the center console, which was also lucky because the charger Carvana bought was J1772.


----------



## wilheldp_PE

Orchid PE said:


> When we test drove my buddy's Model Y, she immediately got out and said, "I want one."


Yep, same. I wanted a Tesla since they were announced, but could never justify the cost of an S. Then I test drove one at an event for my company, and decided I could no longer resist. I asked the Tesla rep how long it would be before I could get a 3 without a pre-order (this was Spring 2016, just before the 3 was about to start delivering). They said it would probably be over 2 years, but the Model S 60 started at $60k. That was enough for me, so I pulled the trigger a month later.


----------



## Orchid PE

I'm slowly starting to nerd out on all of the EV stuff. Electric is my jam.


----------



## bwin12

Orchid PE said:


> I'm slowly starting to nerd out on all of the EV stuff. Electric is my jam.


I was 100% against the EV purchase in 2017. I have come to greatly appreciate the convenience of the EV. No gas stations, no maintenance (if there was I wouldn't do it anyways), quiet, smooth, fun to drive... I dislike a lot of parts of the particular car, but can't wait to get rid of it and get another EV. I will also say I don't think we will go full EV anytime soon, we will still keep a ICE around as we need two vehicles.


----------



## bwin12

Our normal family vehicle is a 2017 Silverado crew cab. It's a great truck, until Saturday evening. My wife was turning onto our driveway when the brakes decided to not function as they normally do. She had to pull herself off the seat and put all the force she could into pushing the brake pedal down before hitting the garage.

Chevy issued a recall in late 2019, and I had the recall done, that "reprogrammed" the computer regarding "excessive break pressure required occassionaly". Apparently, research has shown me, that did NOT fix the problem and on some (lots) of vehicles the brake booster loses pressure at low speeds and you have manual (old fashion) brakes when you are anticipating the power brakes you have been using for the last 58k miles.

As I have alluded to, this is a known problem on the 1500, Tahoe, Suburban across all the GM variants. I can not understand how this is not another recall, this time for the brake booster vs. a reprogram. I just don't understand (actually cynical me does) how the NHTSA would allow this to not be recalled. Maybe it is me, but I feel like the brakes, and proper brake function, is probably the most important part of a vehicle. 

My wife has completely lost trust in the truck and GM. I feel the same about GM. But, I really don't want to get a different vehicle in the current market and deal with the financial implications of replacing a 4 year old vehicle that works well for us. She's looking at rentals for our Thanksgiving drive to her parents. I think the truck will be fine once repaired (as I would if they issued a recall for the booster pump) but will probably never buy a GM again. But then cynical me realizes that Ford, Ram, Toyota, etc. would probably do the exact same thing if there was a known issue with their booster pump. 

Am I being overly dramatic?


----------



## snickerd3

Now is not the time to buy a car, just like now is not the time to buy a house. Both are overpriced at the moment. New cars are going to be on the basic end even though paying premium prices as the computer parts needed for all the bells and whistles are in short supply.


----------



## jeb6294

Was at the grocery last night and I get this text…


----------



## jeb6294

Belongs to a friend of hers at work. She didn’t actually buy it yet, but she already did all the bank stuff and told the guy we wanted it contingent on taking a look at it and making sure it’s as good as the pictures look.


----------



## jeb6294

They were both on shift last night so this morning they went by the storage place so the wife could take a look at the camper and Facetimed me for a bit too. Looks like everything is in pretty good shape...the pictures looked good, really good for a 2006, but it looked just as good in person. He's keeping the hitch which kinda sucks because weight distribution hitches can be pretty pricey, but in-laws have upgraded to a 5th wheel and they were just looking to get rid of their WD hitch. A bunch of other stuff is coming with it (electric cord, stinky slinky, water hose) too which'll save us some $$$.

Looks like we're gettin' us a camper.


----------



## blybrook PE

Congrats, I highly recommend getting a Macerator Pump for those times you get home and were unable to dump the tanks due to the local dump station being closed. 

I put in an isolated dump station at the house that drains right into the septic system; best addition I've made in years.


----------



## jeb6294

When we had to fix the sanitary at the house I had them add a cleanout since we didn't have one before. I'm not sure we could get there by gravity, but if not, a macerator could be in the future.

The biggest issue is that it doesn't have an awning. It had one but it disappeared at some point. We've got an Easy-Up, but that's a much bigger PITA than pulling out an awning. He knocked $2k off and I found a place with replacements so that may be one of the first things.


----------



## jeb6294

Broke down and put new batteries, yes plural, in the truck yesterday. Diesel takes two batteries so it's a nice hit to the wallet, but figured I better if were going to be towing a lot. I had been nursing along the old ones with a charger/conditioner, but they were definitely on their last legs.

Went with the "high dollar" Wally World Maxx batteries this time. Did the Ford batteries before and both sets crapped out pretty quick. These have a 3-yar warranty and are 850CCA vs the 650CCA that were in there.


----------



## blybrook PE

I run the Wally MAXX batteries in the plow truck, which is a high current draw with a short recharge period. You'll notice a difference for a daily driver / tow rig over a part time rig; but I've appreciated the ability to hold a charge after being frozen for weeks on end. 

I've put them against the name brand "Interstate", Napa and O'Reilly batteries in the same rig. Maxx has won out every time for longevity.


----------



## jeb6294

It's like I have to explain to my kids all the time, do you really think Walmart has a factory somewhere that makes car batteries or that they get someone else's more expensive batteries and slaps their sticker on it?


----------



## snickerd3

woohoo, i get to spend my saturday morning at the dealership. A recall on the hood latch, an oil change, and the trim around trunk door opening has started leaking water into the car when it rains.


----------



## snickerd3

I think they should throw the oil change in for free as an inconvenience for the recall.


----------



## bwin12

snickerd3 said:


> I think they should throw the oil change in for free as an inconvenience for the recall.


If a manufacturer did that I may be more inclined to buy from them. I mean honestly, when I'm shopping for my next 1/2 ton crew cab there's minimal difference (over the entirety) between a GM, Ford, Dodge or Toyota, I'd be included to factor this into my decision. 

I'm also not brand loyal. I want leather bucket front seats, 4wd and a reasonable price and I'm happy.


----------



## jeb6294

It's here! It's here! Bit of a white knuckle drive getting it home from the storage place where it was at because we weren't able to take the time to get the weight distribution hitch adjusted right, but it's "only" 8-9k pounds so the F350 is more than enough. The wife is going to go to town on the inside...painting, sewing, etc...so we'll find a nice level spot closer to home and do that in a little while.


----------



## snickerd3

SUpposedly have an appt at the dealer with the Leak specialist to figure out where the water is coming into the car. Tried calling this afternoon to confirm the dude IS actually still going to be there before I drive the hr+. Got sent to voicemail with a we will get back to you within a business day line


----------



## jeb6294

Want to play one of those "spot the OSHA violation games? This is the current situation in my driveway. Found out the camper had a roof leak in the front corner. Hopefully shouldn't be too big of a deal. They make this stuff called Eternabond Tape that is made to stick to everything and stays put for 20 years. Got a 100' of 4-inch wide tape so I'm going to just seal up the entire perimeter of the camper and fix/prevent any leaks. Worst part is cleaning up the roof and the old sealant.

So, how many violations did you spot? DIY scaffolding with a 2x12 and a couple ladders (don't worry, the board has bar clamps holding it to the ladder rungs). Untethered shop-vac on the roof, and if you look really close, you can see the 2-prong to 3-prong adapter on the extension cord cause that's the cord that was out there.


----------



## bwin12

I feel like there is another with the waters proximity to the illegal electrical situation, but I'm a consultant now and got to delete OSHA requirements from my brain after taking the PE exam.

We bought a 33' Keystone Passport- I picked it up in Kansas yesterday and dragged it back to Denver (we have RV dealers here but the one in KS was $6k cheaper). I averaged 21 mpg on the way out and 7 mpg on the way home. There was one particularly horrible section (probably 3 MPG average) between Colby, Kansas and Burlington, CO where I almost quit because the wind was so bad. Of course, that is the section with wind turbines right next to the highway. Those engineers definitely did their research and put them in the right place.


----------



## snickerd3

THe leak specialist did find the leak in the drivers side roof channel. $614 to ensure my roof doesn't rust out.


----------



## jeb6294

bwin12 said:


> I feel like there is another with the waters proximity to the illegal electrical situation, but I'm a consultant now and got to delete OSHA requirements from my brain after taking the PE exam.
> 
> We bought a 33' Keystone Passport- I picked it up in Kansas yesterday and dragged it back to Denver (we have RV dealers here but the one in KS was $6k cheaper). I averaged 21 mpg on the way out and 7 mpg on the way home. There was one particularly horrible section (probably 3 MPG average) between Colby, Kansas and Burlington, CO where I almost quit because the wind was so bad. Of course, that is the section with wind turbines right next to the highway. Those engineers definitely did their research and put them in the right place.


Yeah, the 2-prong/3-prong thing probably not a problem, but add the hose and now you've got something.

What are you towing with? I think that's where the diesel shines. We are at 8-9k pounds which is easily doable with a lot of trucks set up for towing, the diesel just doesn't have to work as hard to pull it. MPG goes down but not as drastically as a gas truck.


----------



## jeb6294

snickerd3 said:


> THe leak specialist did find the leak in the drivers side roof channel. $614 to ensure my roof doesn't rust out.


Slap some of this on it....

This is the stuff I just used on the roof of the camper and I can tell you this is some serious stuff.


----------



## bwin12

jeb6294 said:


> What are you towing with?


1/2 ton Silverado with a 5.3. I am aware this is not ideal, but I am within my limits and it is safe (maybe not when the wind is that bad). We are going east from Denver so the wind and elevation should be advantageous. 

I was ready to get a bigger truck (would have gotten a trailer with more slides too) and a diesel but I couldn't bring myself to drop that much money and get half of what I wanted for options. I looked at used ones too, but they are skyhigh and we are in that life cycle where the affordable ones for people like me that would use them sparingly are basketcases of emissions BS. I seriously considered an old 7.3 F250, but envisioned everything but the engine failing as we try to drive across the country.


----------



## jeb6294

bwin12 said:


> 1/2 ton Silverado with a 5.3. I am aware this is not ideal, but I am within my limits and it is safe (maybe not when the wind is that bad). We are going east from Denver so the wind and elevation should be advantageous.
> 
> I was ready to get a bigger truck (would have gotten a trailer with more slides too) and a diesel but I couldn't bring myself to drop that much money and get half of what I wanted for options. I looked at used ones too, but they are skyhigh and we are in that life cycle where the affordable ones for people like me that would use them sparingly are basketcases of* emissions *BS. I seriously considered an old 7.3 F250, but envisioned everything but the engine failing as we try to drive across the country.


Sorry...what are these "emissions" you speak of? 

I had actually been contemplating selling the truck since it was just paid off. From the prices I had been seeing, I could probably get close to what I paid for it 6 years ago. With the prices for campers being the same way, I figured one of those would be a few years down the road and just hoped that the supply would catch up with the demand by then.


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## Supe

Speaking of 5.3 Silverados, mine is driving me insane. I have a parasitic battery drain I can't find. When I'm watching it, its only pulling 15 milliamps which is within spec, but it still dies within a week or so (sitting, not driving. It charges fine). I replaced the alternator in case it had a bad diode to no success. Now on my third battery, but going to tell NAPA its got a dead cell and will see if they'll swap it for me since its been discharged so many times... All I can figure is that one of the control modules is energizing randomly. Apparently the instrument cluster is one that has problems with this, so I pulled the fuse and will try to start it again in a week to rule that out.


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## bwin12

I have not had that issue. I have found www.gm-trucks.com to be a really good resource to keep mine in check. Search the forum, I bet someone has had the same problem. Persistent electrical problems are the worse, especially on these new vehicles that are so tied to the electronics.


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## Supe

bwin12 said:


> I have not had that issue. I have found www.gm-trucks.com to be a really good resource to keep mine in check. Search the forum, I bet someone has had the same problem. Persistent electrical problems are the worse, especially on these new vehicles that are so tied to the electronics.



Pretty sure I've been there before. It's a common problem with that generation of GM truck. The lucky ones are able to find it by pulling fuses after seeing a really obvious amperage draw. In my friend's Silverado for example, it was the seat heater circuit. The unlucky ones like myself, it usually ends up being the instrument cluster or one of the body control modules waking up intermittently, where troubleshooting takes a week at a time...


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## Supe

If the used market wasn't so ridiculous right now, I'd probably sell it (it's crazy low mileage), and go pick up something with higher mileage crew or quad cab and a 6.0 since all I use it for is hauling/towing. But that 8 foot bed sure comes in handy more often than not.


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## Flyer_PE

Supe said:


> If the used market wasn't so ridiculous right now, I'd probably sell it (it's crazy low mileage), and go pick up something with higher mileage crew or quad cab and a 6.0 since all I use it for is hauling/towing. But that 8 foot bed sure comes in handy more often than not.


I get along pretty well with the 5.5 ft bed. Helps to have an 18ft trailer for the times when the truck by itself won't quite cut it.

I've been thinking about upgrading to an F250 but the ones my friends have seem to spend a lot of time at the dealer dealing with computer issues. Also, my F150 has two things going for it: 1) everything works right now, and 2) It has the "paid-for" option installed.


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## Supe

Flyer_PE said:


> I get along pretty well with the 5.5 ft bed. Helps to have an 18ft trailer for the times when the truck by itself won't quite cut it.
> 
> I've been thinking about upgrading to an F250 but the ones my friends have seem to spend a lot of time at the dealer dealing with computer issues. Also, my F150 has two things going for it: 1) everything works right now, and 2) It has the "paid-for" option installed.


It would be an easier decision if I had my trailer here. Because of the damned HOA, I have to store it at a friend's house, which means an hour round trip just for trailer retrieval/storage. Which is yet another reason why I need to escape this hellhole.


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## jeb6294

We've had enough rain that I think I can confidently say that the roof of the camper is no longer leaking...well, confident enough that I'm ready to put foam board in the walls and panelling up.

Eternabond taped the whole perimeter, replaced the vent in the front bedroom with a vent/fan and put new lap sealant around the vent and the front seams. That lap sealant and eternabond are pretty impressive stuff. The lap sealant "dries" but takes like a month to fully cure so it oozes to fill any little gaps and seal things up really well.

Next on the list is pulling up the old nasty carpet and replacing that which is a whole new thing to worry about. Leaks/rot typically come in from the top and up through the bottom.


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## bwin12

So we are at my in-laws outside Cincinnati. I checked the credit card statement a couple days ago- currently averaging $0.50 per mile over ~1700 miles all but 300 or so were towing...


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## jeb6294

bwin12 said:


> So we are at my in-laws outside Cincinnati. I checked the credit card statement a couple days ago- currently averaging $0.50 per mile over ~1700 miles all but 300 or so were towing...


Uhhh, hello...where at?

We took the boat out Saturday. I spent Sunday in the driveway trying to figure out an odd noise. Kind of a whirring sound we don't remember it having before. Ran fine while we were out, just can't figure it out. It's 35 years old, but it's a run-o-the-mill GM 4.3 so it should last forever.


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## bwin12

jeb6294 said:


> Uhhh, hello...where at?


Honestly, not really sure. Liberty Township I think. Maybe Hamilton. Potentially Princeton. Almost Fairfield. Is Bridgewater Falls a town? 

I searched all the towns listed above and none of them contain their house. The address in google maps says Hamilton, but I am 10 miles east of there.


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## jeb6294

Yeah...that's not Cincinnati. That's Hamil-tucky. We don't go there.


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## jeb6294

Our power was out for almost the entire day yesterday. It went out the night before at 9:30. It wouldn't be so bad except it was close to 100 yesterday. I had the generator we use for our Halloween trail hooked up to the fridge and the freezer, but it was so damn hot. We were out getting some dinner and got a text from Duke saying power would be fixed by 11:59pm...the next day. Even though the bedroom isn't fixed yet, we started talking about giving up on the fridge and using the generator to run the camper and sleeping in the bunk beds. Fortunately, on the way home we started seeing houses with porch lights on so we are back among the civilized.


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## DVINNY

I figure the automotive thread is the best place to post, since my addiction to cars has been a big reason for my absence on the forum. 


I’ve picked up a few additional classic cars over the last 6 months.
I have enough small projects now to keep me busy for quite a while.

hope everyone in here is well and keeping the driving to a minimum with these fuel prices.


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## pbrme

DVINNY said:


> I figure the automotive thread is the best place to post, since my addiction to cars has been a big reason for my absence on the forum.
> 
> 
> I’ve picked up a few additional classic cars over the last 6 months.
> I have enough small projects now to keep me busy for quite a while.
> 
> hope everyone in here is well and keeping the driving to a minimum with these fuel prices.


Whatcha get? _*Ears perked up_


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## bwin12

jeb6294 said:


> Yeah...that's not Cincinnati. That's Hamil-tucky. We don't go there.


I'm not "in-the-know" on Cincinnati suburb pecking order/class order, but how does Hamilton turn into Hamil-tucky? It's the one of the furthest suburbs (you can make an argument it is not a suburb) of Cincinnati from Kentucky? Is it purely because Hamil-ianda doesn't sound as good? Geographically the Hamilton/Indiana reference makes sense. 

We spent the last week in Brookville, Indiana. My wife's niece and nephew grew up in Ross. I'd rather be over there.


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## DVINNY

pbrme said:


> Whatcha get? _*Ears perked up_


Ive had my ‘68 Camaro for 18 years now 
This year, picked up:
An ‘85 IROC
An ‘87 Pontiac Firebird Formula
And
‘96 Dodge Viper

the Viper is so much fun


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## Supe

DVINNY said:


> Ive had my ‘68 Camaro for 18 years now
> This year, picked up:
> An ‘85 IROC
> An ‘87 Pontiac Firebird Formula
> And
> ‘96 Dodge Viper
> 
> the Viper is so much fun


First off, Formula envy. Secondly, how the heck do you fit in the Viper? I about had to sit cross legged in the early Vipers, and that was when I was about 80 lbs lighter.


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## DVINNY

Supe said:


> First off, Formula envy. Secondly, how the heck do you fit in the Viper? I about had to sit cross legged in the early Vipers, and that was when I was about 80 lbs lighter.


It isn’t made for comfort, that’s for sure. 
getting out of it is the tricky part.


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