The Lawnmower Thread

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It's metal and not rusted... I'll grab a pic when the sun is out.... It's been garage kept....

 
Ah, the ol' push rod thru the block trick. I've had that happen in the past. One time it was a bad governer caused the engine to run at too high a RPM and it caused the rod to come apart. Another was lack of oil at a side slope.

You are near Harbor Freight, get one of the vertical shaft engines for ~$100 and slap it on the mower, you'll be all set. Easier to replace the engine than try to rebuild it. Only thing you'll have to ensure is that the blade attachment will fit the odd ball replacement engine.

 
Cool thanks...that what I was thinking was to just find an engine and replace it... I have yet to pull the serial no. Or model # to try and look it up and see what they go for....just want to stay less than 50% the code of a new beast....

 
Lawn mowers are disposable. I can't see me I ting a replacement motor for a pushmower. Then again I watch the Sears flyer for sales and don't pay more than $250 for a new mower period

 
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That's so consumptive of you!

I haven't fully researched this yet but If I can get all the replacement parts for $100 or less I will mess with it... You can't really get a decent self propelled mower for mess than $350-

Sears? People still buy stuff from there?

 
That's so consumptive of you!

I haven't fully researched this yet but If I can get all the replacement parts for $100 or less I will mess with it... You can't really get a decent self propelled mower for mess than $350-

Sears? People still buy stuff from there?
Sears has some great deals if you watch the flyers, especially on lawn and garden stuff. They're essentially the same machines sold out of the big box stores Lowes, Home Depot, (which are branded as Murray, etc.) except they have the Craftsman paint/logos. the motors are all Tecumseh or Briggs & Stratton. The housings are of fair quality but for typical residential use they're fine for 10+years. I've had great experience with Sears stuff.
 
That's so consumptive of you!

I haven't fully researched this yet but If I can get all the replacement parts for $100 or less I will mess with it... You can't really get a decent self propelled mower for mess than $350-

Sears? People still buy stuff from there?
You were sending pics??

If you threw a rod out of the side of the block from lack of lubrication, you will need a new crank, block, rod, piston, rings, gaskets, and oil.

This could be a lot of cash.

 
I have quite a few acres to mow and have a John Deere X320 and use a Stihl FS55R weedeater for trimming. My only complaint is the sealed transaxle (made by Tuff Torq) should not be sealed. It takes a lot of punishment when you mow on hills and god forbid you tow anything. The only way to service it is to drop the transaxle and split the case. The case magnets do a great job of capturing all the fine metal shavings but it could use a good fluid and filter change on a regular basis. Tuff Torq does make other transaxles that are serviceable and if you're looking for a good riding lawnmower make sure you get something that is serviceable. You will pay dearly for it but it's worth it in the end. You can buy a modified transaxle conversion kit for $2k on eBay for the JD X320 but I'm not dropping another $2k. I will invest $2k in a zero turn before I do that. My JD starts losing power after a while (usually a few seasons) and won't hardly pull out of it's own tracks. Servicing the transaxle solves the problem every time but it's a major PITA. Other than that no problems. My weedeater has been flawless.

Usually in the Spring of each year I use an aerator and aerate the **** out of my yard. My JD groans a bit when I tow it so I use my Suzuki Kingquad 750 and rip it up. Between the aeration and tires digging in it gets the job done. Once I finish aerating I add some lime and fertilize and done. On Friday or Saturday mornings I get up early and usually start mowing around 7 AM to piss the neighbors off. ******** are always making noise except early in the morning.

 
Bringin one back from the dead....

My Yardman/Honda push mower had been sitting for a few years while I was overseas. Naturally it wouldn't start once I got home. I tore the carb apart and hosed everything down with carb cleaner and everything seemed right with the world. Now it'll fire right up but it'll only stay running with the choke on. It's got a little spring loaded lever on the side. Pull it back for the choke and it releases once you pull the throttle lever back and then slowly goes from full choke to nothing. I have to jam a golf tee in there to keep the lever back so it's always choked. Seems to run fine that way though.

A few weeks after I got it going I hit a stump...low enough that you couldn't see it through the grass but high enough to catch the blade. It stopped the thing dead. I was actually really surprised that it didn't destroy something. It seems like that's when this new issue started started.

 
Still not getting fuel. More often than not, main jet clogged in the carb. Carb cleaner often won't do the trick. May need to soak in cleaner/thinner, blow compressed air through, maybe poke some fishing line through there. Some get gunked up enough that they need to be pin drilled out. Also possible you have a vacuum leak.

 
If its dying only under load, you may have done damage to the internals (bent rod) and lost compression.

 
jeb, the first thing I would do is look into how much a new carb would cost. I've found for some of my small equipment a new carb can be found online for $20-30, which to me is worth the price versus the hassle of tearing the old one apart and trying to clean/fix it.

 
Bringin one back from the dead....

My Yardman/Honda push mower had been sitting for a few years while I was overseas. Naturally it wouldn't start once I got home. I tore the carb apart and hosed everything down with carb cleaner and everything seemed right with the world. Now it'll fire right up but it'll only stay running with the choke on. It's got a little spring loaded lever on the side. Pull it back for the choke and it releases once you pull the throttle lever back and then slowly goes from full choke to nothing. I have to jam a golf tee in there to keep the lever back so it's always choked. Seems to run fine that way though.

A few weeks after I got it going I hit a stump...low enough that you couldn't see it through the grass but high enough to catch the blade. It stopped the thing dead. I was actually really surprised that it didn't destroy something. It seems like that's when this new issue started started.
Normally when you hit something bad, the keyway will shear to protect internal engine components. It is located under the flywheel. It keeps spark in timing with valves and piston.

They only cost like a quarter??

 
Bringin one back from the dead....

My Yardman/Honda push mower had been sitting for a few years while I was overseas. Naturally it wouldn't start once I got home. I tore the carb apart and hosed everything down with carb cleaner and everything seemed right with the world. Now it'll fire right up but it'll only stay running with the choke on. It's got a little spring loaded lever on the side. Pull it back for the choke and it releases once you pull the throttle lever back and then slowly goes from full choke to nothing. I have to jam a golf tee in there to keep the lever back so it's always choked. Seems to run fine that way though.

A few weeks after I got it going I hit a stump...low enough that you couldn't see it through the grass but high enough to catch the blade. It stopped the thing dead. I was actually really surprised that it didn't destroy something. It seems like that's when this new issue started started.
Normally when you hit something bad, the keyway will shear to protect internal engine components. It is located under the flywheel. It keeps spark in timing with valves and piston.

They only cost like a quarter??
not necessarily. I hit something (rock/root) with my Craftsman push mower and it bent the main shaft. The thing would run but it would vibrate like crazy. Bought a new mower for ~$200.

 
^I think I'd rather get a goat.
They work fairly well. I've been using one on my back yard for 16 years now and love it. Don't let the grass get too long and you're good. The cut is much smoother than a rotary gas mower and it'll even cut when the grass is a little damp. It's like I have a little golf course behind my house, but without the pretentious jackasses chasing their balls.

 

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