The Automotive Thread
- Thread starter envirotex
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Help Support Professional Engineer & PE Exam Forum:
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
Do a few 0-60-0 runs?
Next time, jack up the whole front or rear of vehicle, whichever you are changing the brakes on. Remove both wheels. When doing the brakes, do one at a time and now you have a template to look at in real time as to how the brakes are supposed to look. I have done many brake jobs, have found it the best way to keep from making mistakes. When removing brake drums and they are rusted in place around the spindle, spray the heck out of them with a good rust buster. Let them sit and then spray again. Search for a small hole in the flat face of brake drum. This is a threaded hole that you can put a bolt into. Install bolt and set it snug then ring the drum lightly with a hammer. Should pop off then. If not, spray some more, let it sit and then tighten the bolt more and ring the drum again.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
Should I buy this?
'65 GTO, 4-speed, had a different larger engine put in it (400 cu in.) Asking $17k, which I've been told is a little high for a car with a non-original engine. Owner still has the original motor and all the corresponding paperwork.
'65 GTO, 4-speed, had a different larger engine put in it (400 cu in.) Asking $17k, which I've been told is a little high for a car with a non-original engine. Owner still has the original motor and all the corresponding paperwork.
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Dexman PE PMP
Internationally PMP'n his PE-ness
How sound is the body & frame? It's amazing how much paint will cover-up if the body work was done poorly and just covered with bondo.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
The exterior looks pretty solid and seems to be in good condition. No bonod areas that I can tell.
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
MA is the Poncho guy around here. Seems pricey to me.
Master slacker
Something awesome.
I wouldn't pay that much for the car. Unless the 47 year old car has been in a garage its whole life, I'd bet that if the owner (at the time) replaced the engine, he would have done a little cosmetic magic as well.
blybrook PE
Veteran 10k Spammer
You need to really look at body panels from underneath. A good paint shop can blend in the bondo areas and you'd never know until it was too late. Look through any access panel / hole that you can get to with a flashlight.
17k seems high, but with all the original paperwork and IF he is including the motor and all repair receipts; it may be worth it. It'd be more of a show car than a Daily Driver (to me anyway).
Good luck with the purchase if you go through with it.
17k seems high, but with all the original paperwork and IF he is including the motor and all repair receipts; it may be worth it. It'd be more of a show car than a Daily Driver (to me anyway).
Good luck with the purchase if you go through with it.
Master slacker
Something awesome.
If the car looks good - as in it was a little project for someone - ask for some pictures of the build up. If he can't supply any or any showing body work at all, tell him to go pound sand. He's hiding something. Any good car guy who performs a car project takes pictures and is willing to share their work.
Rockettt
I..am..McLOVIN
those ol goats are worth a few bucks. If its not all dough and underside is clean...i mean clean as in like new then 17k would be all day long. especially for a 4 speed.
Recent years the Matching Numbers gig hasnt mattered quite as much as years past. some cars yes...but many no. People nowadays want to drive and use the cars. Sometimes a transplant motor hurts and sometimes it even helps for the right build. but as in anything, need the right buyer too.
Nice car though even though im a mopar fanatic. those GTO's always get my attention.
Recent years the Matching Numbers gig hasnt mattered quite as much as years past. some cars yes...but many no. People nowadays want to drive and use the cars. Sometimes a transplant motor hurts and sometimes it even helps for the right build. but as in anything, need the right buyer too.
Nice car though even though im a mopar fanatic. those GTO's always get my attention.
Capt Worley PE
Run silent, run deep
You can get some pretty serious late model machinery for 17K that will run rings around that old goat.
And be easier to live with.
And be easier to live with.
Didn't notice this thread until now, you guys started it while I was on vacation
I don't have the garage space at home to keep any fun motorized toys, but this one is in the family. It belonged to my grandmother, who bought it in the 70's. She never drove it much anyway (has 60k miles on it) and had gotten to the point where she didn't need to be driving at all. She planned on selling it, but my parents opted to bring it across the pond instead. It's a little out of place here in the south and it gets plenty of attention when it does come out.
I replaced my brakes pads and rotors a few months ago. I discovered that the shop that turned the rotors last time stripped the screws that hold the rotors in place when the wheels are off. This hiccup resulted in a trip to NAPA, where they were unable to identify the part, so then I made a trip to the dealership where I was told by the tech (who vomited in a trashcan while we were there, but that's a different story) that they didn't have the part in stock and we "didn't need them". So a trip back home to drill out the screws and a few hours later the brakes are replaced. I should quit doing car repairs, nothing is ever as easy as it should be.
I don't have the garage space at home to keep any fun motorized toys, but this one is in the family. It belonged to my grandmother, who bought it in the 70's. She never drove it much anyway (has 60k miles on it) and had gotten to the point where she didn't need to be driving at all. She planned on selling it, but my parents opted to bring it across the pond instead. It's a little out of place here in the south and it gets plenty of attention when it does come out.
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Road Guy
Well-known member
I dont understand what they charge your for when they say turn the rotors? Maybe if they are grooved or damaged but if the pads still have 25% or more life on them I dont see where they could get damaged. I think its just another ploy for them to invade your wallet!]
& you should drive that car at least once a week!
& you should drive that car at least once a week!
An early 4 speed car in good shape will fetch that price tag.
Managed to pull the trans from the Mazda yesterday in about 3 hours or so with minimal surprises. Glad I did, as the previous owner a) left out a flywheel bolt, B) finger tightened about everything else, INCLUDING driveshaft bolts, some of the bellhousing bolts, and one of the motor mounts, and c) completely half-assed some of the stuff under there. Slave cylinder was clearly out of alignment with the clutch fork, and the rod was a rounded off grade 8 bolt. Pressure plate bolt was missing, which I think accounted for slight wear difference around the outside of the clutch disc. Nothing else jumped out at me as the cause for binding badly (throwout bearing looked fine, clutch fork seemed ok), so hopefully replacing and realigning the slave with the correct pushrod, and a new lighter clutch and pressure plate will take care of the issue.
If you don't get them turned they can wear unevenly and cause some issues. Mine were in need of replacing so I hadn't bothered to get them turned in a while. A lip on the edge of the rotor had formed (where the brake pad didn't contact the rotor). This made getting the caliper assembly and old brake pads a ***** to get off when I did replace them. This was a minor nuisance in comparison to the rotor screws of course.
knight1fox3
Jedi MASTER & Friend of Capt. Solo
Thanks for the replies all.
Any suggestions or deals you've seen?
Certainly. I might offer him $15k after I take it for a test drive with one of my "car buddies".
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