Button head sheet metal screws

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Supe

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Anyone have any leads as to where I can find small quantities of stainless steel, button head sheet metal screws that take a standard allen key?  I have only had luck finding cap screws or button heads that take security/torx bits.  

 
I worked at Fastenal in college. They should have these on hand or within a days shipping. Grainger may have them as well. 

 
@Supe I'm going to move this to the Mechanical Technical forum if you don't mind.

 
@Supe I'm going to move this to the Mechanical Technical forum if you don't mind.
Sorry, didn't scroll far enough!  Thanks

Jbone - I could not find a fastenal part number.  Same problem - security heads only in sheet metal screws.

 
Supe:  the Hillman Group makes a variety of fasteners http://www.hillmangroup.com/product/fastening-solutions/fasteners

You might want to call them and see if you're looking for a unicorn.  I'm curious, why only allen head?  What's that matter with using Torx for your application?
Trying to stay consistent with the other fasteners for quick/easy service.  Every single other panel fastener that would need servicing is that configuration, but I have one instance where a panel is currently riveted instead of nut/bolted.  It will be a PITA to service since all the rivets will have to be drilled out, and I expect several of them to fail due to imperfect mating surfaces/angle of entry, hence the search for the sheet metal screw.  I have found one source that sells them for the RC car industry, but they are zinc plated, not stainless.

 
From the maintenance side, torx head fasteners are a pain in the a$$ as it requires 'special tools'.  However, from a public transportation perspective they are used to prevent the riding public from interfering.

 
This is for a racing application, so if the public is interfering, an ass-whooping will ensue.

 
That right there is a bit of a unicorn.  I have a contact that can get you exactly what you want but it is an uncommon thing.  Message me if you want his contact info.  He is a rep that supplies fasteners to Fastenal and other similar distributers.

 
Trying to stay consistent with the other fasteners for quick/easy service.  Every single other panel fastener that would need servicing is that configuration, but I have one instance where a panel is currently riveted instead of nut/bolted.  It will be a PITA to service since all the rivets will have to be drilled out, and I expect several of them to fail due to imperfect mating surfaces/angle of entry, hence the search for the sheet metal screw.  I have found one source that sells them for the RC car industry, but they are zinc plated, not stainless.
Are the other fasteners sheet metal screws or machine screws?

 
Are the other fasteners sheet metal screws or machine screws?
The other fasteners are machine screws with nylocks.  In this case, I am fastening to sheet metal, and do not have access to the backside of the panel.

 
The other fasteners are machine screws with nylocks.  In this case, I am fastening to sheet metal, and do not have access to the backside of the panel.
Your best option then, might just be to implement some PEM nuts and use a machine screw.

 
I would normally use a rivnut, but this is one application where I don't want to risk it rounding out and free spinning in the hole.  Sheet metal screws are perfect for this, and if I have to go torx bit I will.

 
The attaching panel has the screw holes very near the edge, so I can't oversize them any more.  I can't use clips/captive nuts on the mating panel, because it is not a flat edge, and the attachment points are way up near the middle of the panel (these are over-fenders which attach about mid-way up the OEM rear fenders.)

 
I would normally use a rivnut, but this is one application where I don't want to risk it rounding out and free spinning in the hole.  Sheet metal screws are perfect for this, and if I have to go torx bit I will.
I've used PEM branded nuts for years and years and not had that issue.  The hole has to be properly sized, of course, but PEM stakes their reputation on no free-spin.

 
The attaching panel has the screw holes very near the edge, so I can't oversize them any more.  I can't use clips/captive nuts on the mating panel, because it is not a flat edge, and the attachment points are way up near the middle of the panel (these are over-fenders which attach about mid-way up the OEM rear fenders.)
If that is the case, just go with a philips head.  Torx are a pain and are too easily confused with hex head if rework is done in a hurry.  You won't get quite the uniform look but you'll be better off.  Plus the screws are really readily available. 

 
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