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I'm gonna try and squeeze this in this weekend. Looking forward to it, I like doing this type of stuff I just don't have that much practice!

Fixed the washer tonight, part finally came in the mail, $25 part keeps my 16 year old Magyar going! I should probably replace the hoses while I still have it take apart..

Got the cable on the lawnmower to also fix, I'm glad my dad encouraged me to be my own repair man, those two things alone new would be $1300 bucks to replace...

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^^^ A Chilton's or Haynes repair manual makes any auto repair job super easy. My brother and I replaced the full suspension system on my parents' Pathfinder one afternoon with the help of one of said manuals.

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Fixed the washer tonight, part finally came in the mail, $25 part keeps my 16 year old Magyar going! I should probably replace the hoses while I still have it take apart..

By all means replace the washer hoses. That's the number one source of water damage in a home.

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Fixed the washer tonight, part finally came in the mail, $25 part keeps my 16 year old Magyar going! I should probably replace the hoses while I still have it take apart..

By all means replace the washer hoses. That's the number one source of water damage in a home.

at least the washers for the hoses. they break down after a while and just the wrong twist on one and they are cracked.

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Need to do a break job on my truck this weekend. I've got a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 and their starting to grind. I've been Googlin' for replacement parts/suggestions and thought I'd try here as well. Looking for any experience, or thoughts. I would like to upgrade to heavy duty rotors, oversized calipers etc.

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PBR,

Take a look at ramforumz.com for additional ideas / parts list as that forum is more for the 1500 crowd. Take a look here and you can get the full manufacturers service manual (~400MB); its for the 2008 year, but should have plenty of information for your rig. I downloaded it for my '12 3500; but there's very few things that line up.

With the right service manual and some basic hand tools, the job is very easy to do. When you get into the 4x4's, you'll typically need a few specialty sockets to get the hubs apart; thankfully you can usually rent them from Autozone and the like on a day / day basis.

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Thanks for the Intel. Mine's a 4x4, and I've got the Chiltons.

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Got the brakes done this weekend. Went with the OEM replacement parts for $250, and now have a handfull of new tools for a $400 bill at harbor freight. Front brakes = no problem. New rotors and pads, some grease.. yada, had them replaced in 3 hours.

Rear, were a little more effort. The rear rotors were rust welded on, two hours of PB Blaster and smacking couldn't even dislodge them. Found a video showing a trick to use a jacking bolt thru the caliper bracket mounting holes. Tighten it down, the rotor starts to come off, whack the same side with the dead blow and "Pop" off came the rotor. Dropped them off to get cut on Sunday and bbq'd the rest of the afternoon. Started in on reassembly yesterday, and had everything back together after a couple hours. One additional issue, I snapped one of the 8mm caliper mounting bolts and had to bike down to the parts store. Gave me an excuse to pull in for a pit stop at the local watering hole.

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On the hunt for a new daily driver, Saturn I have is too small and the seats wreak havoc on my back. There is a 2008 Bullitt Mustang at the local dealership with only 12k miles on it for $25k that I'm looking at. Also looking for used luxury sedans, but it's hard finding a) ones with a manual trans, or B) ones with an auto and a crap-ton of power in my price bracket. REALLY want an STS-V but they sure are hard to find.

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I literally just finished doing the front brakes on my Durango... Start time was 7:00, one trip to home dept and dealing with kids and a neighbor that came over to watch.... $50 worth of parts, luckily I had a half inch socket and somehow had the 20mm socket to remove the "thing" and a big c clamp that I didn't know I had..

Darkness wasn't fun, had to find all my work lights... Took me a while to get the pads to line up and a few times to get it right the first time I reinstalled the pad assembly(?). Second set wasn't do bad... I think next time I may just pay the money and have it done during work!

I drove around the block, seemed to work? Any othe clues to check to make sure I did it right?

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Try doing a couple panic stops to see if you can make them lock up/ABS kick in.

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A couple of hard stops and check that it's not pulling to one side or the other.

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^ This

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Next time, jack up the whole front or rear of vehicle, whichever you are changing the brakes on. Remove both wheels. When doing the brakes, do one at a time and now you have a template to look at in real time as to how the brakes are supposed to look. I have done many brake jobs, have found it the best way to keep from making mistakes. When removing brake drums and they are rusted in place around the spindle, spray the heck out of them with a good rust buster. Let them sit and then spray again. Search for a small hole in the flat face of brake drum. This is a threaded hole that you can put a bolt into. Install bolt and set it snug then ring the drum lightly with a hammer. Should pop off then. If not, spray some more, let it sit and then tighten the bolt more and ring the drum again.

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Should I buy this?

img20120704145819.jpg

'65 GTO, 4-speed, had a different larger engine put in it (400 cu in.) Asking $17k, which I've been told is a little high for a car with a non-original engine. Owner still has the original motor and all the corresponding paperwork.

Edited by knight1fox3

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How sound is the body & frame? It's amazing how much paint will cover-up if the body work was done poorly and just covered with bondo.

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How sound is the body & frame? It's amazing how much paint will cover-up if the body work was done poorly and just covered with bondo.

The exterior looks pretty solid and seems to be in good condition. No bonod areas that I can tell.

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I wouldn't pay that much for the car. Unless the 47 year old car has been in a garage its whole life, I'd bet that if the owner (at the time) replaced the engine, he would have done a little cosmetic magic as well.

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You need to really look at body panels from underneath. A good paint shop can blend in the bondo areas and you'd never know until it was too late. Look through any access panel / hole that you can get to with a flashlight.

17k seems high, but with all the original paperwork and IF he is including the motor and all repair receipts; it may be worth it. It'd be more of a show car than a Daily Driver (to me anyway).

Good luck with the purchase if you go through with it.

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If the car looks good - as in it was a little project for someone - ask for some pictures of the build up. If he can't supply any or any showing body work at all, tell him to go pound sand. He's hiding something. Any good car guy who performs a car project takes pictures and is willing to share their work.

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those ol goats are worth a few bucks. If its not all dough and underside is clean...i mean clean as in like new then 17k would be all day long. especially for a 4 speed.

Recent years the Matching Numbers gig hasnt mattered quite as much as years past. some cars yes...but many no. People nowadays want to drive and use the cars. Sometimes a transplant motor hurts and sometimes it even helps for the right build. but as in anything, need the right buyer too.

Nice car though even though im a mopar fanatic. those GTO's always get my attention.

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You can get some pretty serious late model machinery for 17K that will run rings around that old goat.

And be easier to live with.

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Didn't notice this thread until now, you guys started it while I was on vacation

I literally just finished doing the front brakes on my Durango

I replaced my brakes pads and rotors a few months ago. I discovered that the shop that turned the rotors last time stripped the screws that hold the rotors in place when the wheels are off. This hiccup resulted in a trip to NAPA, where they were unable to identify the part, so then I made a trip to the dealership where I was told by the tech (who vomited in a trashcan while we were there, but that's a different story) that they didn't have the part in stock and we "didn't need them". So a trip back home to drill out the screws and a few hours later the brakes are replaced. I should quit doing car repairs, nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

I don't have the garage space at home to keep any fun motorized toys, but this one is in the family. It belonged to my grandmother, who bought it in the 70's. She never drove it much anyway (has 60k miles on it) and had gotten to the point where she didn't need to be driving at all. She planned on selling it, but my parents opted to bring it across the pond instead. It's a little out of place here in the south and it gets plenty of attention when it does come out.

rimg4890.jpg

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