Jump to content
Engineer Boards
​ ​

Recommended Posts

looks nice!

So are you trading in the other car with radiator issue?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, we're trading the old kia "as is" and letting them figure out the engine problems.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Queen Bee...I like it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sharp looking car.  Good luck with it.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've seen a couple KIA Stingers around this area, they definitely look sharp! :thumbs:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So is the wife's car faster than the Camaro?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Supe said:

So is the wife's car faster than the Camaro?

No, but it's still fast. Similar size/weight but only 350hp vs the 525 in the Camaro, plus it isn't geared as aggressively.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Car is largely disassembled again.  Engine block is all that remains in the engine bay.  Trans it out, clutch is ready to go out for custom flywheel.  Tore the rear suspension apart to replace the outer CV boots which were puking grease.  HFS!  One toe link was totally loose, the other was flat out missing the nut on the subframe side!  This is what locates the rear wheels both fore/aft and side to side.  That movement also left one of the two lower bolts that hold the rear hubs clinging for dear life!  I'm not sure if the alignment guy just never tightened them, or if the vibration just backed them off.  Needless to say, nylocks are going on, along with some blue loctite.  It certainly explains the banging noise coming from the back of the car during my downshifts, though!

I did replace the last two rubber bushings with a solid bearing in one spot and sphericals in the other.  I mangled one spherical by accident in the press, so there went $100 down the shitter.  Other one went in no problem after I froze it.  I never knew how bad the old rubber bushings were binding until I had these installed!  Gave up on trying to beat/drill the old bushings out. Just torched them, knocked the sleeve out, and then the leftover clamshells came out without a fight.  

I also gave Wilwood a call on the front brake issue.  They said for my piston size, the front master cylinder should have been spec'd smaller by the company who designed it to increase line pressure.  New master cylinder on order.  Not looking forward to it, because it is a BITCH to get to (under/behind the dash), and requires grinding on the master to fit the pedal assembly.  It should actually let my front brakes work and ease up on the pedal pressure some which will be nice, because I like being able to stop the car from 160 mph.  I'm also installing a proportioning valve inline with the rear brakes so I am positive I've nipped the issue once and for all.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm stuntin' in Orange with an A6 for a few days.  Nice car, too much tech.  WAY too much f'ing tech.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had an Audi A4 for a little while back in the day.  Was a fun little car to drive, but swore I would never get another one...costs a fortune to maintain/repair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

window on Tahoe wont stay up - do you all think its the regulator or the motor?  it does "roll up" (power motor) but wont stay up? Regulator is $110, motor is $45 bucks.. or just order both?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What won't stay up?  Is it slowly sliding down, coming down crooked, or lowering itself back down the same amount each time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

(Rear window) passenger side Rolls up but then falls down to about the same level each time

 

Giving my 18 year old an afternoon project

 

#prayers—

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Assuming its not an electrical indexing issue, then the regulator assembly likely needs to be replaced.  Those motors are typically worm drive and don't slip, whereas the cables on the regulator can stretch or break.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

10-4 thanks, well start with the regulator- door panel is already broken off on the inside so at least it will save that step!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Road Guy said:

window on Tahoe wont stay up - do you all think its the regulator or the motor?  it does "roll up" (power motor) but wont stay up? Regulator is $110, motor is $45 bucks.. or just order both?

Neither....$1.92 at Home Depot.

nelson-wood-shims-shims-wood-shingles-10

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if there is a way I can jerry rig it to just stay up I am up for that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

that might make it rough for the kid up in South Dakota this winter ;) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×