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looks nice!

So are you trading in the other car with radiator issue?

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Yeah, we're trading the old kia "as is" and letting them figure out the engine problems.

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Sharp looking car.  Good luck with it.

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I've seen a couple KIA Stingers around this area, they definitely look sharp! :thumbs:

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So is the wife's car faster than the Camaro?

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3 hours ago, Supe said:

So is the wife's car faster than the Camaro?

No, but it's still fast. Similar size/weight but only 350hp vs the 525 in the Camaro, plus it isn't geared as aggressively.

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Car is largely disassembled again.  Engine block is all that remains in the engine bay.  Trans it out, clutch is ready to go out for custom flywheel.  Tore the rear suspension apart to replace the outer CV boots which were puking grease.  HFS!  One toe link was totally loose, the other was flat out missing the nut on the subframe side!  This is what locates the rear wheels both fore/aft and side to side.  That movement also left one of the two lower bolts that hold the rear hubs clinging for dear life!  I'm not sure if the alignment guy just never tightened them, or if the vibration just backed them off.  Needless to say, nylocks are going on, along with some blue loctite.  It certainly explains the banging noise coming from the back of the car during my downshifts, though!

I did replace the last two rubber bushings with a solid bearing in one spot and sphericals in the other.  I mangled one spherical by accident in the press, so there went $100 down the shitter.  Other one went in no problem after I froze it.  I never knew how bad the old rubber bushings were binding until I had these installed!  Gave up on trying to beat/drill the old bushings out. Just torched them, knocked the sleeve out, and then the leftover clamshells came out without a fight.  

I also gave Wilwood a call on the front brake issue.  They said for my piston size, the front master cylinder should have been spec'd smaller by the company who designed it to increase line pressure.  New master cylinder on order.  Not looking forward to it, because it is a BITCH to get to (under/behind the dash), and requires grinding on the master to fit the pedal assembly.  It should actually let my front brakes work and ease up on the pedal pressure some which will be nice, because I like being able to stop the car from 160 mph.  I'm also installing a proportioning valve inline with the rear brakes so I am positive I've nipped the issue once and for all.  

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I'm stuntin' in Orange with an A6 for a few days.  Nice car, too much tech.  WAY too much f'ing tech.

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Had an Audi A4 for a little while back in the day.  Was a fun little car to drive, but swore I would never get another one...costs a fortune to maintain/repair.

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window on Tahoe wont stay up - do you all think its the regulator or the motor?  it does "roll up" (power motor) but wont stay up? Regulator is $110, motor is $45 bucks.. or just order both?

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What won't stay up?  Is it slowly sliding down, coming down crooked, or lowering itself back down the same amount each time?

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(Rear window) passenger side Rolls up but then falls down to about the same level each time

 

Giving my 18 year old an afternoon project

 

#prayers—

 

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Assuming its not an electrical indexing issue, then the regulator assembly likely needs to be replaced.  Those motors are typically worm drive and don't slip, whereas the cables on the regulator can stretch or break.

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10-4 thanks, well start with the regulator- door panel is already broken off on the inside so at least it will save that step!

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18 hours ago, Road Guy said:

window on Tahoe wont stay up - do you all think its the regulator or the motor?  it does "roll up" (power motor) but wont stay up? Regulator is $110, motor is $45 bucks.. or just order both?

Neither....$1.92 at Home Depot.

nelson-wood-shims-shims-wood-shingles-10

  • Haha 2

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if there is a way I can jerry rig it to just stay up I am up for that!

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doneweek 3 field trip and car 415.JPG

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that might make it rough for the kid up in South Dakota this winter ;) 

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Foam board.

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On 7/21/2018 at 7:36 AM, Road Guy said:

that might make it rough for the kid up in South Dakota this winter ;) 

Are you suddenly going soft? Since when did you care, or is the concern a Mrs RG thing?

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New engine arrived, and began the process of trying to make it fit.  The engine itself is beautiful.  I thought there were broken oil pan studs, but it turns out they welded a few of the pan bolt holes closed.  Guess they couldn't access them in the old car, but the pan has a thick billet rail and was sealing just fine it appears.  Everything is mint under the valve covers, and the bottom end is the prettiest machine work I've ever seen.  Even the rods/caps are laser engraved with their respective numbers and sides!

It LOOKS like it will fit the cradle I have with minor grinding, but the overall width/height of the pan will be an issue.  It looks like there may be a simple solution in simply raising the entire engine cradle up about 1/2" in order to clear the mounting clamshells for the steering rack.  I need to pull the old motor tomorrow and get it out of the way, replace the oil pan gasket, bolt the cradle up, and lower it into the engine bay, stopping just short of where its going to hit something.  I'll measure the needed spacer height from there, and if its too much, will consider cutting/welding the cradle to raise just the motor mounts up.  If that won't work, I will fab up some custom mounts that weld directly to the front frame rails, basically creating a J shaped mount on both sides.

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so which the F is it Amazon!tahoe.png

 

 

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I have found that the best way to look for car stuff on Amazon is to have a good part number and search by that.  Their "garage" feature isn't great.

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Well, the NASCAR engine has to sit about 1.5" higher than hoped for on account of the oil pan, which has created a bevy of issues ranging from transmission tunnel clearance to major exhaust issues.  Looking like I will have to fab new motor mounts, and new headers from scratch.  *sigh*  There goes my last two races of 2018!  I will also need a hood scoop the size of the Sears Tower.

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